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Lecture-1: Course Title: Fully Fashioned Garments Department of AMM

The document provides information about calculating the shaping or fashioning sequence for knitted garments. It defines key terms like design chart, knitting tension, and the two step process for calculating shaping. It then gives an example problem of a body panel with measurements of 5 courses per cm and 4 wales per cm. The measurements are first converted to courses and wales. It is then explained that 20 widening operations are needed to go from 160 to 180 wales, requiring adding 1 needle every 9 courses on each selvedge.

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Sharif Sarker
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190 views9 pages

Lecture-1: Course Title: Fully Fashioned Garments Department of AMM

The document provides information about calculating the shaping or fashioning sequence for knitted garments. It defines key terms like design chart, knitting tension, and the two step process for calculating shaping. It then gives an example problem of a body panel with measurements of 5 courses per cm and 4 wales per cm. The measurements are first converted to courses and wales. It is then explained that 20 widening operations are needed to go from 160 to 180 wales, requiring adding 1 needle every 9 courses on each selvedge.

Uploaded by

Sharif Sarker
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Lecture-1

Course Title: Fully Fashioned Garments


Department of AMM

Section- Sec-1

Course Teacher- Md. Yeasin Ali


(Lecturer, Dept. of AMM
)
Calculation of Shaping or Fashioning sequence

Design: Creative endeavor to solve a problem. Design is a process of developing


purposeful and innovative solutions that embody functional and aesthetic
demands based on the needs of the intended user. Design is applied in the
development of goods, services, processes messages and environments.

Design Chart: Design chart is the visual representation of some written


instruction or data.

It is two types:

i. Graphical Representation: Visual / Graphical artwork of the design


ii. Outline Representation: Only line / outline artwork of the design

Basic requirements to calculate a FFK design chart:

1. Panel Size specifications


2. Course & Wales density (CPI & WPI)
Calculation of Shaping or Fashioning sequence

Knitting Tension: It is the tightness or looseness of knitting structure. i.e.


CPI or WPI based on gauge.

Measurement process of knitting tension:

Knitting a swatch

Washing

Drying

Ironing

Conditioning for 24 hours

Measure CPI & WPI


Calculation of Shaping or Fashioning sequence

It is a two step process

1. Conversion of panel measurements into courses & wales


2. Shaping or fashioning calculation
Example-1

A Body panel with 5 CPCM & 4 WPCM has shown on bellow.


Calculate the shaping or fashioning sequence of the panel
size?
Example-1 Solution

1. Conversion of panel measurements into courses & wales


Calculation of Shaping or Fashioning sequence

2. Shaping or fashioning calculation

For this example, the fabric quality is 4 wales per centimeter and 5 courses per
centimeter .The converted measurements are presented in the
figure also.
*As the first fashioning process, the knitting width has to be widened from 160
wales to 180 wales. 20 widening operations are
required( 180-160=20) ,or 10 operations on each selvedge of the panel .

* The widening has to be completed during the knitting of 90 courses. If these


available courses are divided by the number of widening operations
, the results is 9, one extra needle has to be included in the knitting operation
after every 9 courses on the right & on the left.
Calculation of Shaping or Fashioning sequence
Example-2

A Body panel with 20 CPI & 16 WPI has shown on bellow.


Calculate the shaping or fashioning sequence of the panel
size?

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