Flat Pattern Design

Flat pattern design is one of the three methods of design. A brief definition of the three will aid
in understanding the uses and advantage of the flat pattern method.
Drafting is a method by which the designer or pattern maker uses comprehensive chart of body
measurements to establish the desired pattern lines.
Draping Method requires that the designer drape fabric (the fabric to be used is less expensive
fabric similar in characteristics) on dummy or on individual figure to achieve desired effect.
Flat patter design- is a method by which the designer uses a basic pattern made to fit the
dummy or an individual as a basis for making other patterns. She cut and slashes it and
manipulates it in many ways to create each new design with the advantage that each new pattern
retains the size specifications of the original basic pattern.
Comparison of design methods
Drafting method is limited by its dependence on chart of specific measurements which makes it
important for creating ever changing designs of women’s fashion. It has retained certain amount
of its previous popularity in men’s wear because men’s fashion have been relatively stable in the
past hut as men discovered the excitement of fashion, changing design of men’s fashion are
adopting more versatile methods of designing
Drafting methods are used by some companies who sell made to measurements fashion. They
use this method in spite of its limitations. So they solve the problem of ever-changing fashion.
By defining their collections to quite stable designs adding fashion characters with hard
embroidery, bead work and other delicate hand details for which they are famous Students
And educators are mainly concerned with draping and flat pattern method to create design
subject to fashion change.
Draping- It is the method employed by truly talented designers who can afford the additional
time and expense that is required for this method. Many designers use this method simply
because they work more creatively& happily in the fabric medium or because of the design
involve complicated draped effects that can be best achieved by this method. The dress form or
dummy is essential for working by this method and the designer creates for the individual clients
or who wishes to design her own clothing must have dummy that duplicates her figure.
Designers crave to achieve greatest degree of creativity and highest level of perfection.
Flat pattern- Flat pattern method of designing requires a basic pattern fitted to the dummy or the
individual figure. A cardboard copy of the perfected pattern is used to make all other designs
with the tremendous advantage that it will retain the identical specifications in size and fit of the
original basic pattern. This process requires less experience and less natural talent, therefore, this
is the best method for the beginner.
Basic Pattern

Basic pattern is the starting point for the flat pattern designing. It’s a simple pattern that fits the
body with enough care for freedom of movement and comfort.
The basic pattern has five pieces
 Bodice front
 Bodice back
 Skirt back
 Sleeves
The basic pattern is sometimes called as masters or foundation patter the drafted pattern is
referred to as block. A sloper is a cardboard copy of the basic pattern that has dart area and seam
allowance cut away. It’s used with the pivot method of flat pattern designing.
A muslin shell is a bodice or skirt made from a basic pattern that can be tried on by the
individual for fitting or designing purposes.
A commercial basic pattern is used as the basic for all full-scale pattern work. If a basic pattern is
not available a simple dress pattern with similar pieces can be used the basic pattern should be
purchased in the proper size altered, made up as a muslin shell, and checked for fit.

Understanding dart
Most darts are fitting darts Filling darts are triangular fold in the cloth that fit flat fabric to the
curves of the Body. These darts are decorative as well as functional. They are necessary part of
every pattern and every garment. The fold that originates from under arm seam line is called bust
fitting dart these dais can originate from the underarm, centre front, knee joint or be combined
with the baseline arts. The fold of the dart that originate in the baseline is called waist fitting dart.
This day is often left on the waistline position but it may be mowed to the other seam fine and it
may be combined with the Front but fitting dart
 Fitting darts points towards bust point
 Fitting dart may not point towards the but circle for certain design.
 Decorative art paint outside the bust point and they don’t Fitting the ample must be very
small so no bulges create.
 The length of fitting darts is determined by the bulge to be folded within it.
 Fitting dart end on or within bust circle.
 All fitting dart must extend to bust circle for fitting, this minimum length.
 A fitting dot may not extend beyond the bust point, this is maximum length.
 Both side of the dart must be equal.
 If one dart has large ample then another it should extend into the bust area.
  If both fitting darts are equal in size and originate in different seam line then both dart
will end at or slightly within the bust circle. Size of dart = angle of darts.
 If all of the fitting is done by two darts in the same seam line both darts extend almost to
the bust points.
 A darts should extend almost to the bust point because the large bulge created by the
darts fits there.
 When two darts originate to the same seam line, both darts can’t point to the bust point.
The tip may be equidistance from the bust point or one tip may point towards bust point
and other point towards the bust circle.

Rules for fitting dart

 Vertical dart originates in horizontal seam line. Make the first crease on the rear centre
front or centre back. Horizontal dart originates in vertical seam line. Make the crease over
the lower fine.
 Fitting of darts also decorative darts and used for decorative purpose. They may be folded
on indicated deign.
 The shape of the wide end of the darts is determined as excess paper is cut of as the darts
is folded.
 Vertical darts fold towards the centre and the horizontal darts fold towards down.
How to determine dart size and length
1. Dart size. The size of the dart is measured by the angle at the tip. The larger the body
curve the larger the fitting dart will need to be. As the angle become larger the bulge
made by the dart also becomes larger.
2. Dart length- The length from the bust of the dart is determined by the distance to the
seam line by which the dart originates. Dart length is not dependent on the size of the
dart.
3. Dart shape Dart fine may be straight or curved depending on the shape of the body.
Straight line darts are used for most flat Pattern work because paper can’t be folded
around the curve.
The folding of darts is an essential part of the pattern making Procedure –
Waist fitting dart of the bodice form curve outward (convex curve) thus Making the garment fit
more snugly under the bust.
Waist fitting dart of skirt have concave curve thus giving Smoother fitting.

How to locate the dart

The bust point is the focal point for dart manipulation in the bodice front. Fitting dart variant out
from the bust point and can be mowed around the bust from seam line to seam line. Two
methods for locating
 Draw line through the middle of each dart and extend the fine until they intersect. The
point of intersection is the bust point.
 Extend the centreline of the bust fitting dart. Draw a line through the side dart. Point of
intersection is the bust point.

How to draw the bust circle-

The bust circle encloses the area of the pattern that covers the bust. Draw the circle with compass
and this circle covers the area of bust.
Draw the end with compass
Radius of ½” (3.8 cm) for sizes 8, 10, and 12
2-2.5 (5 to 6.4 sm.) for sizes 14, 16, 18.
Mowing Darts Pivot Method direction
1. Always start by analysing the design to be made.
2. Use a cardboard sloper as starting pattern
3. Prepare the sloper by locating on it the bust point and the bust circle. Make the shoulder
dart design by mowing the bust fitting dart to the shoulder by pivot method
4. Mark the location of the new dart ON THE SLOPER and label the lines of the bust fitting
darts as C & D. Also label the bust as B. Now thumbtack the sloper at the bust point to a
piece of paper on a suitable board or table.
5. Trace, from the new dart location at A, around the sloper towards the front to D, the dart
to be mowed. If the sloper is fifted off at this time, the portion that has been traced will
look like (as in figure). Notice that the waist fitting dart remains in the same place.
6. Next Pivot the sloper as shown in figure So C moves down to coincide with D, thus
closing the dart to be mowed.
7. After pivoting, trace the rest of the sloper from C to A as shown by the arrows in figure,
Remove the sloper. The space between A and A’ in the shoulder seam line is the opening
at the wide end (or point of origin) for the new dart.
8. Label the pivot point as B (This thumbtack hole). Draw the bust circle as a guide for
determining the length of the new dart.
9. Draw a “guide line”, dotted line GB through the middle of the dart opening down to the
bust point.
10. Mark the tip of the new dart E on the guideline at or slightly within the bust circle.
11. Draw the new dart lines AEA’.
12. Fold the dart before cutting off any of the excess paper.

How to fold darts-

Directions
1. Hold the pattern as shown in figure and hold each dart through its tip.
2. Now lay it flat on the table and place the forefinger of one hand In the tip of the dart. Pick
up the created line with the other hand and bring both dart lines together. Crease again.
3. The opposite side the pattern will curl up off the table so be sure neither hand interferes
with the sloping or the pattern. Reverse the position or the hands and fold the other dart.
4. Perfect curves line by sketching a smooth curve. Perfect straight line by drawing them
with a ruler.
5. Cut off the excess paper while the darts are folded. This determines the shape of the wide
end of the dart.
6. Unfold the darts; the pattern must be completely flat when the pattern is finished.
Pattern making with darts-

1. Darts can be mowed from one seam line to another.

2. Darts can be combined into one large dart.
3. Dart can be divided into two or more small parts.
4. Darts can be converted together and with seemliness.
5. Darts can be converted to pleats in skirt.
6. Dart can be released to make boxy jackets or tent dresses.
Combining darts: Pivot Method

The fitting darts of the bodice can be mowed to any seam line and combined there to make one
large dart. This dart will be referred to as a combined dart.
A combined dart extends almost to the bust point-

Directions:
1. Mark the location of the new dart ‘A’ on the edge of the sloper.
2. Thumbtack the sloper to a piece of paper on a suitable surface.
3. Trace towards the front, from point ‘A’ to the waist fitting dart ‘T’, and then pivot the
sloper to close the waist fitting dart.
4. While the dart is closed, trace to the bust fitting dart at D.
5. Pivot the sloper again to close the bust fitting dart and trace to the point A Remove the
sloper.
6. There will now be a large opening in the shoulder for the combined dart. Draw guideline
GB from the middle of the dart opening to the bust point B.
The combined dart is a large dart, and in the full scale pattern it should extend to within ½ inch
(1.3 cm) (t) of the bust point.
7. Draw dart line ALA’. Fold the dart according to the rules
8. Shape the wide end of the dart by cutting off the excess paper while the dart is folded.
9. Complete the pattern with adequate labels.
Dividing Darts: Pivot Method

One or both fitting darts of the bodice pattern can be mowed to another seamline and divided
into two or more darts there. Directions for parallel darts
1. The bust fitting dart has been mowed to the shoulder and divided into two darts there.
2. Mark points A and A’ on the sloper as the location of the two new darts.
3. Thumbtack the sloper to a large piece of paper on a suitable surface. The bust fitting dart
is the dart-to-be-mowed, so make a mark Fat the middle of the bust fitting dart as a guide
for closing half of the dart at a time.
4. Now trace from A, towards the front, around to D. Then Pivot the sloper to bring C down
to F, thus closing one half of the dart.
5. While the dart is closed halfway, trace between A and A’. There will now be an opening
in the shoulder seam for the first of the two darts.
6. Pivot the sloper again to close the remainder of the bust fitting dart, and trace from CD to
A. This makes an opening in the shoulder seam line for the second dart.
7. Remove the sloper. Now design the two new shoulder darts. Draw guideline G B from
the middle of line A A’ to the bust point.
8. Locate the new darts as follows:
Place point E and E’ on or slightly within the bust circle.
Space I and E’ so the adjacent lines (AE and A’ T’) will be parallel to the guideline and
to the each other.
9. Draw the new dart lines, and complete the pattern.
Bodice pleat

Direction for bodice pattern

 Draw bust line and pleat lines on the basic pattern.
 Divide the waist dart inter thirds, and place and third along each of the side pleats.
 Mark matching notches on the pleat lines cut apart on the pleat lines.
 Draw horizontal line MN on a large piece of paper, and match the bust line of the bodice
piece to this line. Spread for desired size pleats. Fold pleats from shoulder to tip of dart.
 Fold the lower part of the pleats to include the one third darts. The three centre pleats or
parallel since they have no dart include.
 Notches should match now. Complete the pattern.
SEAM LINE

Any line in a garment is a part of the total design. Lines may include either dart or seam line.
Although all seam line are designed lines. Some seam line to fitting and or for design purpose
only.
A yoke line that does not fitting but permits the yoke area to be cut on the bias for interesting
texture, plaid, and stripes or check effect.
A garment can often be cut some smaller amounts of material if certain design lines are in to the
patterns.
Seam lines as fitting lines
If a seam line replaces a dart it is a fitting line and is referred to as a dart equivalent. Dart can be
converted to seam by cutting away all of the dart space except for Seam allowance. This will
reduce bulk in heavy fabric or in design where are large dart folds down across seam line.
A French dart that has been converted to a seam line. The seam allowance for full scale patterns
and for half scale patterns that seam allowance margin at the tip of the dart to form of fold of
cloth the garment.

ADDED FULLNESS ONLY

Arrows is the figure is not pointing toward the bust so none of these gathers are dart equivalent.
Both fitting dart have been converted as one dart at the waistline.
To make the added fullness gathers, slash among the side line of the combined than hold the dart
under the front section. Darts Slash and spread the pattern as shown the complete the seam line.
Label the pattern, etc.
The fabric must be considered because stiff fabric required less fullness than soft fabric for
comparable amount of gathers.
The table below gives the ratio of the length of the edges to-be- gathers to the length of the edges
to which it will be sewn
Gathers

Gathers are the simplest means of controlling fullness or adding decoration to a dress. They are
used at a waist lines, yokes, cuffs and sleeves.
Gathering may be done by hand or machine. The effect of the gathers will be determined by the
fabric.
Working with right side of fabric and within the seam allowance, stitch just inside the seam line
of the area to be gathered. Gently pull the thread and distribute the gathers evenly.

Pleats

A pleat is defined as a fold of cloth, usually lengthwise and held in place by a seam. The amount
of material to allow for pleats is twice their width together with the width of the garment on
which they will lie e.g. six pleats of one inch width take up 12’ of material in the actual pleats,
and 6” for the pleats to lie on the material.
Knife pleats – The most common kind of pleats, they are folds of the cloth, faced in the direction
and with equal distance between each pleat.
• Box pleats- In the box pleat two fold lines are turned away from one another. The back folds in
a box pleat are facing. Should meet at the work.
• Inverted pleats – It is the reverse of the box pleat. It is made by two knife pleats with outer of
the pleat. It is often used at a centres front or back or two inverted pleats at right and left side of a
garment.
Tucks

A tuck is a fold of a fabric used as decorative features, holding fullness and used for shaping.
They are even in width and stitched in groups or arranged on a complete section of a garment.
 Pin tucks – They are used as a decoration on very sheer fabric. Run the folder edge as
possible. Mainly used as a decoration on yokes or blouses.
 Crossed tucks- These are Space the tucks as desired across. Press them flat tucks by hand
as close on. Make the horizontal tucks first all the away before making the vertical tucks.
 Corded tucks – Make the edge of each tucks with basting so that it is straight and even.
Then enclose the cord in the tucks.

YOKES (Bodies Front)

[A yoke may be defined as a part of the garment fitted closely to the shoulders, hips, or other
body parts as a support for the other parts of the bodies or skirt!
The yokes make it possible to shorten a dart so it appears to originate from a design line.
Directions:
Step 1:
1) Analyse the design fig.no.1 Note that the bust fitting dort has been moved to a
point in the shoulder seam.
2) Make a pattern with a shoulder dart, complete the pattern.
Step 2:
1) Fold and pin the shoulder dart.
2) Design the yoke line across the folded dart at a horizontal line shoulder meet the
vertical line at a right angle.
3) Mark matching notches on the yoke line.
4) Separate the pattern into two pieces by cutting along the yoke line while the dart
is still folded.
5) The dart in the yoke line will remain closed; tape it shut.
Open the dart the lower bodice.
6) Complete the pattern by perfecting seam line.
Collar

Objective: -To know about the collar pattern with flat method.

A collar encircles the neck and frames the face, offering grate opportunities for design variation,
Collars may be developed close to away from the neck line. They may be narrow, flat or high &
with or without an attached stand.

Full roll collar

The straight collar is a full-roll collar because it stand-up against the neck in back and fold over
and falls down to cover the neck line seam.
Procedure
 The full roll collar is drafted from the neck line measurements.
 Draw a rectangle 3” (7.6cm) wide as long as the total neck line measurement ADEC.
 Measure and mark the shoulder notch b. AB is the back neck line the BC is the front.
Corners at the A, C, D& E are right angle corners.
 Add the collars point CFE. FE can be of different lengths but is usually about one inch.
 Label the collar. Centre back is fold line and usually it is also a straight grain but for
design effects it can be crosswise grain.
 Add seam allowances if desired.

Convertible Collar
A convertible collar is a basic shirt collar that isn’t as tailored as a banded collar.
Procedure
 Start by tracing your blouse neckline and placing a mark 1” from the centre front. This is
where the collar will end; it does not overlap at centre front.
 Then measure the front neck from that point to the shoulder (record the measurement),
and measure the back neck from centre back to the shoulder.
 On a separate piece of pattern or craft paper, draw a line (AB) that is the length of the
front and back neck measurements combined (the sum of the front and the back
measurements). “A” will be the centre back, so measure from “A”, the length of the back
neckline and make a mark. This will become a notch that identifies the shoulder seam.
 From A, draw a line perpendicular (at a 90 degree angle) up 2 ½” to “C”. This is the
width of your collar. Draw a similar line from “B” to “D” (2 ½”
  Up, squared to line AB). Draw line CD (the top edge of your collar).
 Mark a point ½” up from point “B” along BD. Draw a gently curved line from that point
back to point “A”. This is your new neckline.
 Mark another point ¾” from point “D”. Draw a line between the two new points; this is
the front edge and point of the collar.

Chinese Collar
A Mandarin collar is a type of stand-up collar with Asian influence that is often used in shirt or
dress making
Procedure
 Measure your entire neckline and draw a rectangle that is the length of the full neck
measurement and the full desired collar depth.
 Curve the outer edges.
 Mark the centre back in the middle of your rectangle and divide the space
 On the left and on the right from this line into three equal sections.
 Cut all the lines (except the centre back line) from the top to approximately 1-2 mm to
the bottom.
 Overlap each section at the top by 0.5 cm.
 Trace the new shape to obtain your collar pattern.
 Add 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance around all panels and cut 2 pieces from fabric. Cut one
piece from interfacing but do not add seam allowances.

FLAT COLLAR

The flat collar lies flat on the bodice .It has no roll or stand.
Direction-
 Start with the basic bodice front. Lower the shoulder seam line (19cm)at the armscye and
mark at the original line or slashes.
 Fold the shoulder darts of the bodice back pattern and if a seam allowance is present, fold
in under.
 Pin the bodice back to the bodice front so that the back shoulder line materials the new
shoulder seam of the bodice.
 Use a piece of paper large enough to mark collar 3 inches wide and on it trace the back,
neckline and centre front of bodice patterns.
Mark the location of the shoulder seam line.
Be sure the bodice pattern remains flat while you are doing tracing. Allow the back pattern to
hump up at the end of the dart.
 Remove the tracing and complete the under edge of the collar. For the back flat collar
measure 5 inches (7.6cm) from the neck edges and draw a nice curve.
 Added 5/8 inches (1.6cm) seam allowance if desired.
 Label the collar. Centre back will be a flared line and will be on straight grain.
Sleeve

Objective: -To design the sleeve with the help of sloper pattern.

Sleeves are functional but decorative part of garments that encircles the arm. They have major
impact on silhouette style. Sleeve pattern that are designed from the basic sleeve should always
be checked to be sure that they will fit without twisting.

Terminology
 Sleeve cap: - Curved top of the sleeve from the back.
 Cap height: - Distance from biceps to cap at the centre.
 Cap line: - A horizontal line from underarm to underarm.
 Bicep level: - Widest part of the sleeve dividing cap from lower sleeve.
 Elbow level: - The location of dart level with elbow of arm.
 Wrist level: - The bottom hemline of the long sleeve, level with wrist.
 Grain line: - Centre of sleeve from the top of cap to wrist level straight grain of sleeve.
 Fold line: -A line that created by folding the sleeve in half.
 Elbow dart: - Fitting dart in the back of the sleeve that create a bulge in the sleeve so the
arm can bend.

BASIC SLEEVE
Part of basic sleeve
 Cap line – A horizontal line from under arm to underarm .It is the cross wise Grain
line .It separates the upper, lower section of a sleeve.
 Sleeve cap – The part of sleeve above the cap line.
 Cap seam line-The curved line around the top in the sleeve. There are notches in the
back, one notch in the front to insure proper distribution of the sleeve
 Grain line- A line at right angles to the cap line.
 Fold line- A line created by folding the sleeve in half. It will follow the grain above the
elbow because of the dart it angles off grain below the elbow.
 Elbow dart-Fitting darts in the back of the sleeve that creates a bulge in the seam to that
the arm can bend.
Set in sleeves

When sleeves are attached to a garment’s armhole with a seam, they are called “set-in sleeves.”
Design variations may change the size and shape of the top of the sleeve or both. The armhole, or
armscye, may vary in shape from the stand-are round to the large, deep cut for a dolman sleeve.
Procedure:-
Draw a vertical line the same length as your sleeve measurement. Measure from the top down
the cap height. Then measure from that line to the bottom of the vertical line and make a mark
and horizontal guideline at the halfway point.
Take your ruler and line the 0 mark up at the top of the vertical line. Holding this point in place,
rotate the ruler until the armscye length point hits your cap height guideline. Mark this point.
Repeat with the other armscye.
Measure your bicep length cantered over the vertical line. This may or may not match up with
the marks you made from the armscyes. If it doesn’t, make a mark in between the end of the
bicep line and the armscye mark. Draw lines from these new marks to the top of your sleeve
length line.
Divide each of the lines you made in the previous step into quarters and mark them. Then
measure the biceps line as indicated. Subtract two inches from that measurement and mark that
measurement on the bottom of the vertical line to create the wrist measurement for your sleeve.
Connect your wrist line with the roughed in sleeve cap to show the basic shape of your sleeve.
On your dividing marks on your sleeve cap, measure the amounts shown perpendicular to your
line.
Draw in the sleeve cap, hitting the marked points.
Measure out ¼ inch from where the side seam line hits your elbow guideline on the sleeve back
and redraw the upper part of the sleeve side seam. Then measure from there to the vertical center
line and mark the halfway point. Measure down 1 inch from the corner and make another mark.
This is going to be the elbow dart.
Add seam allowances.
Raglan sleeves
A raglan sleeve is a sleeve that extends in one piece fully to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam
from underarm to collarbone.
Procedure:-
 Take a basic sleeve pattern mark as A, B, C & D.
 Start by marking a straight horizontal line E-F. Armhole depth as per bust round can be
marked as 7.5”; this is the measure of E-F.
 Mark Cup from E at a height of 3.5 inch.
 Mark down from C to the sleeve height you need at M. M-N is marked as half of sleeve
round + ½ inch seam allowance.
 Mark half of E-F at H. Join straight to the line C-D at G. Divide the line H-G into two.
Join F to C in a gentle curve going through this mid-point.
 After the regular sleeve is made make a raglan sleeve.
 Extend the sleeve’s top edge as follows to make the raglan sleeve pattern.
 Mark up from C to A-shoulder seam of the bodice + ½ inch.
 A-B = ½ of the neckline of the top measured above + ½ inch.
 Join B to F in a soft curve or straight. Cut out and open.

Kimono sleeves
Kimono sleeves are an extended sleeve with a wide hem.
Procedure:-
 Take a piece of fabric 40 inches wide and 20 inches long. Fold the 40 inch side by half.
You will now get a 20 inch square with fold on one side.
 On the fabric, mark the following dimensions. A-F is the armhole depth which is marked
as 8 inch. You can increase this to 9-10 inch for more ease. Your bodice should also
match the armhole depth.
 From F mark 3.5 inside at B. Join A to B in a soft curve. This is your armhole line
 Now join B in a curve to C which is marked 8 inch from the bottom right side corner. Cut
out A-B-C-E-D. You need to cut two of these for both sleeves.
 Add seam allowances.
GORED SKRITS

The gore is any tapering piece of cloth used is give varying with two a government each gone
adds gamlines. Seamlines are design feature of the skirt and give an impression of height to the
short figure.
Gored skirts are named according to the number of gores combination are possible but each part
retains its identity. The gored skirt can be as slim or straight in silhouettes as the basil two-gore
skirt.
The pittul skirt of each gore style in the bore skirt for that style and serves as the starting pattern
of flat. Pattern designing many variations are possible.
Each seamline of the skirt provides a place to add some flax that will give more”sithing room”
and also give more room for large thighs.
If only one or two inchs (2.54) (65.0cm) of flove is added and each seamline, the skirt in shill
basis in design.
If flax in added below the pivot point only, the kirt is still a Fitted skirt.

THE DROPPED SHOULDERS

Unlike the other bodice darts, the shoulder dart cannot be converted to gathers at the normal
shoulder seam line unless the gathers in some way to prevent of the garment from swinging at
over the arm and spriling the drapes of the slope.
Gathers may be controlled by shirring or by the dropped shoulders shown in figure
To make a dropped shoulders
 Move the Bust fitting darts to the shoulder, fold and pin. Move the back
 Shoulder dart to the neckline.
 Tape together the back and front patterns at the shoulder seam line.
 Design a new scam line AC across the folded dart, to drop the shoulder seam
 Land ½ inches (3.8 cm) (+) at the armscye 2 and ½ inches (6.4cm) (+) at the neckline
Tape fold above the seam line. Mark notches on the new seam line and cut along this line
to separate the back
  And front pattern prices complete the pattern as shown in figure more fullness may be
added if desired.

DART EQUIVALENT PLUS ADDED FULLNESS

 Fullness added above the bust line.

The armscye has become more circular is shape.
 Fullness added at the bust line
Where the patterns is slashed and spread is increase fullness at the bust line, the result is the
pattern in the figure.
 Slashed to add fullness waist end at the seam line. Wherever seam allowances are present
the slashed must stop at the seam line and the seam allowance must be clipped to must
the end of the slash.