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ALTEMURCAN KURSUNLU

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 THE WORLD OF FINE WATCHES

SPOTLIGHT
www.watchtime.com

A HISTORY OF
PATEK PHILIPPE
WATCHES,
FROM THE PAGES
OF WATCHTIME
MAGAZINE

PATEK PHILIPPE
history: PAtEK PhiLiPPE

Patek Philippe’s former

headquarters on
Rue du Rhone.
The shop is on the ground
floor.

known, would catch the

horological fever. He start-
ed by buying high-quality
watch movements, which
were mounted in cases un-
der his personal supervi-
sion. But soon this was no
Geneva in the 19th century longer enough for the am-
bitious Polish exile. On May
1, 1839, in collaboration
with François Czapek,

the Birth of a Legend

a Pole of Czech origin
and himself an ambitious
watchmaker, Antoine Nor-
bert de Patek laid the cor-
in a history spanning more than 160 years, Patek Philippe has not only nerstone for his legendary
life’s work, founding his
won international renown, but time and again has reconfirmed its standing own watch manufactory
under the name Patek,
as one of the world’s most important watchmakers. it has emerged Czapek & Co. The manag-
ing pair and about half a
unscathed from such crises as the quartz watch boom of the 1970s and the dozen employees began
takeover wave of the past few years, and today is healthier than ever. producing approximately 200 high-quality ishing thinness. Even more amazing was by Philippe’s ingenuity, from 1845 on-
pocket watches per year at their address at that the watch was wound and set using ward the company used increasing
t the Congress of Vienna in life. At 16, Antoni Norbert joined the First the army from 30,000 troops to 80,000. 29 Quai des Bergues in Geneva. The total the crown, eliminating the nuisance of a amounts of production machinery of its

A 1815, when the victor-nations

that had vanquished Napoleon
once and for all started redrawing the
Mounted Rifles of the Polish cavalry, un-
der the ultimate command of the Tsar’s
brother, Grand Duke Constantine. So
Nicholas I reacted by dispatching Russian
forces. In the ensuing clashes, Antoni
Norbert Patek saw combat as a freedom
ultimately reached around 1,120 time-
pieces of exceptional quality, each signed
and bearing its own serial number. Among
key. Patek was so taken with Philippe and
his pioneering design that he made the
Frenchman an offer: In 1845, on the expi-
own design. Philippe also spent time on
his hobby, writing, and in 1863 his
ground-breaking book on keyless pocket
map of Europe to their liking, it was the sure was Tsar Nicholas of “his” Poles that fighter against Russian domination. By the clientele were many Polish emigrants, ration of the contract with Czapek, watches was published in Geneva and
once-proud kingdom of Poland that suf- he made plans to send a portion of this the end of 1831 the revolt had been put who at least could bask Philippe would join the Paris. The daily Journal de Genève pro-
fered the most. What remained, after army into Belgium and France, to sup- down. A period of ruthless Russianization in the memory of their Patek noted that Geneva company as claimed him an expert writer.
Russia had taken her fill, was the former press the revolution there. Somehow, followed. Thousands of Poles, including eastern homeland technical director. In contrast to the technical enthusiast
Duchy of Warsaw, now known as word of the imperial brothers’ unsavory large portions of the army, fled the coun- whenever they glanced
“Life in New York Jean Adrien Philippe Philippe, Patek was a gifted businessman
“Congress Poland.” In this tiny intentions slipped out. So it was that in try to escape the Tsar’s brutal reprisals and at their watches. is very expensive. agreed. On May 15, who concerned himself with marketing
kingdom, in the little village of Piaski, 1830, shortly before marching orders ar- the threat of the firing squad. Among Antoine Norbert de The cheapest cigar 1845, Patek & Co. was the pair’s watches. When sales gradually
there lived modestly a couple named rived from the Russian capital, a group of them was Antoni Norbert Patek. Patek was granted costs four cents.” founded, with head- stagnated in the economic depression
Joachim and Anna Patek de Prawdzic Polish cadets moved on Warsaw and oc- He first found political asylum in Paris. Swiss citizenship in quarters in Geneva. that followed the European upheavals of
with their son, Antoni Norbert, who had cupied the Belvedere Palace. Two Russian After brief interludes working for a com- 1843. The next year, the Philippe was one of the 1848, Patek began traveling extensively.
come into the world on June 12, 1812. generals were killed, and Grand Duke mittee of refugees in Bamberg and as a young company showed its products at partners. As of January 1, 1851, the as- From December 1854 to May 1855 he
The era’s turmoil did not spare the Constantine fled. typesetter in France, he chose Geneva as an exhibition in Paris. Here Patek heard piring company was renamed Patek visited the United States of America. On
Pateks. Most notably, the momentous On January 18, 1831, the Polish Parlia- his new home. In this famed watchmaking for the first time of the gifted watchmak- Philippe & Co. That same year, Queen November 23, shortly before taking ship
political decisions of Tsar Nicholas I would ment repudiated the Tsar’s rule, and an- metropolis, it was perhaps inevitable that er Jean Adrien Philippe, born in 1815, Victoria of England acquired a pocket to cross the Atlantic, he wrote from Paris:
have a lasting impact on the young man’s ticipating the worst, quickly reinforced Antoine Norbert de Patek, as he was now who had built a pocket watch of aston- watch bearing this signature. Prompted “The travails of the journey have begun.
history: PAtEK PhiLiPPE

When will we be able to pro- Patek Philippe made its first

duce watches at low cost and wristwatch, for Countess
then wait for the customers Kocewicz. Patek, by now a
to come to us, instead of Count (he was ennobled by
traveling with our products Pope Pius IX for his services
all over the world, at high ex- to the Catholic Church), Bracelet in the form of a belt with built-in watch,
signed Czapek & Cie, Geneva, ca. 1850
pense and hazard to our Antoine Norbert de Patek Jean Adrien Philippe died in Geneva on March 1,
health?” On December 14, (1812 – 1877) (1815 – 1894) 1877. His successor in the
he met Charles Lewis Tiffany company’s management
for dinner. While the men was the Frenchman Joseph
dined, Patek’s room at New Antoine Bénassy-Philippe, a
York’s first-class St. Nicholas son-in-law of Adrien
Hotel was burglarized. Next Philippe. Patek’s son Léon
day he wrote: “Life in New was content with the role
York is very expensive. Since of a silent partner.
for security reasons I stop In 1890, the senior
only at first-class hotels, I Philippe received the Cross
cannot make do with less of the Legion of Honor for
than 24 to 25 Swiss francs his services to France. In
per day. Accommodations January of the next year he
and meals cost 25 dollars per retired, turning over his
day, a small bottle of wine place to his youngest son,
costs a dollar, and the cheap- Joseph Emile Philippe. On
est cigar costs four cents. Mr. January 5, 1894, Jean
Reed and Mr. Tiffany were Adrien Philippe died. Until
very surprised to see me. Be- early 1901, the heirs con-
cause of the general state of tinued the company as a
crisis they cannot promise me family firm. Effective Febru-
to buy anything.” Patek’s ary 1, 1901, they trans-
The House of Patek Philippe on the former Geneva harbor, 1839 This golden cigar box with enamel paintings, signed Czapek & Cie
worries were unfounded. Three generations: President Philippe Stern (right) with father formed it into a stock cor- Geneva 1851, once adorned the collection of Egypt’s King Farouk.
Tiffany did buy, and in time Henri and son Thierry poration, named “Anci-
became the company’s enne Manufacture d’Hor-
largest American customer. logerie Patek Philippe & Co.
In 1876, Tiffany appointed S.A.” The company was the famed dial maker Fabrique de Cad- In 1931, contemplating the takeover of would make its own movement blanks,
Patek Philippe the company’s principal Patek Philippe was already introducing the worth 1.6 million Swiss francs and five of rans Stern Frères, they had long enjoyed Patek, Charles and Jean Stern were not rather than buying them from LeCoultre.
supplier of pocket watches for the next first timepiece of this type – the chrono- the seven shareholders were on the close business relations with Patek just following their nose for a good busi- Charles Stern’s son Henri, born May
several years. But to accommodate their graph hand was reset with a key. In 1861, board. In 1915, Albert Einstein ordered a Philippe. They came to the firm’s rescue. ness opportunity; they were going where 25, 1911, recalled: “In 1932 my dear fa-
clientele’s tastes, the Americans exerted a Adrien Philippe’s stem-winding works gold pocket watch from Patek Philippe, They were well aware of the risks and the their hearts led them. Both wanted to pre- ther fell very ill, and asked me to go into
significant influence on the design of the took its final form. Two years later, he in- with an elaborately engraved case. And rewards involved in acquiring Patek serve and expand a centerpiece of the the dial factory for that reason. I worked
Genevan watches. vented the slipping mainspring which pre- in 1923, American car manufacturer Philippe and decided to make the most of Swiss watchmaking tradition. To this end, there until 1935, every weekday from 7
On January 26, 1855, Patek wrote vents the mainspring from breaking when James Warren Packard expanded his col- the opportunity. in 1933 they recruited Jean Pfister, head till noon and from 2 to 6 in the afternoon,
from Charleston: “The Americans want fully wound, a crucial step in the evolution lection of Patek Philippes with a lectern- The Stern Brothers came from Gürze- of the Geneva branch of the Tavannes including Saturday mornings. Part of the
pocket watches that are not too expen- of the self-winding watch. shaped table clock with a perpetual cal- len, a small town near Bern. Their parents Watch Co. and a man with a technical and time I was my father’s assistant, part of
sive, with which they can time the speed The company showed its pocket endar in a silver case. had been enamel painters by profession. commercial mastery of all aspects of the time I was an engraver. At last I man-
of their horses to a quarter of a second.” watches at the first Universal Exposition In 1932, the worldwide repercussions When the boys were still quite small, the watchmaking. In concert with the new aged to convince my father and my uncle
What he meant was chronographs, in 1855 in Paris and was promptly award- of the Great Depression forced the com- family moved to Geneva, where the owners, he quickly arrived at a decision to let me work at Patek Philippe. There I
which in the next few years quickly ed a gold medal. In 1867, at another Paris pany to seek a solvent buyer for a majori- Sterns’ superb handiwork was much in that would have far-reaching conse- had the great good fortune to get to
gained importance within the broad- Exposition, it offered models with a wide ty interest. It was a historic hour for broth- demand. The family established a dial fac- quences for the company’s international know Jean Pfister. He was cut from the
based Patek Philippe collection. By 1856, variety of complications. And in 1868 ers Charles and Jean Stern. As owners of tory and made a resounding success of it. reputation: From then on, Patek Philippe same cloth as my father.”
history: PAtEK PhiLiPPE

an alternative to mechanical movements.

Henri Stern was a particular fan of this
type of timepiece. Asked whether he was
impressed with watch production, the fa-
ther of today’s president, Philippe Stern,
answered: “Yes. But making electronic in-
struments fascinated me even more.
They’re significantly more precise. We’re
no longer talking about tenths or hun-
dredths of a second, but thousandths.”
Henri Stern took over as president of
Patek Philippe in 1958. In 1960 he proud-
ly presented the world’s smallest quartz
clock to date, a box that measured just 5
by 4 by 2.3 inches and caused a sensation.
Around this time the first wristwatch-
es with independently adjustable hour
hands also reached the market. They
were conceived for discriminating jet-set-
ters who wanted to reset their watches
conveniently to the local time. Two differ-
ent configurations were available, with
Above: Golden bracelet with built-in one hour hand or two. The latter version
watch; the dial is concealed under a showed not only the local time but the
large diamond. Patek Philippe, time at home.
1868-73 It went without saying that Patek
Philippe would have a share in the Centre
Top right: View in 1862 across the
new Pont du Mont Blanc to the old Electronique Horloger S.A. (CEH), found-
city; Patek Philippe headquarters is lo- ed in 1962. The company pursued re-
cated on the left in the photo, on the search in electronic timekeeping, and ul-
far side of the lake. timately developed a competitive quartz
caliber for wristwatches. The product was
Right: Golden Iorgnette
ready for serial production in 1969. Thus
Patek Philippe was among the proud pre- Above: Back dial of Caliber 89 with the sky above Geneva; the dial indicates solar
senters when Switzerland’s first quartz time, equation of time, sunrise and sunset, date of Easter, and signs of the zodiac.
Bottom left: Caliber 89 in its presentation case. Below: The workbench of master
watchmaker Paul Buclin, who worked on Caliber 89 for many years.
Patek Philippe rapidly regained ground more about the country than the average ther expected.” In 1942 Henri Stern
under its new management, recovering fi- American. I was on the road five or six opened his own sales firm in New York.
nancially and acquiring new customers. months a year as a salesman, visiting cus- Two years later he was mourning the loss
An excellent start for the company’s fu- tomers or making friends, exploring new of his father. From 1946 on, the Henri
ture was ensured by an American, Henry cities.” When World War II broke out in Stern Watch Agency, of New York, was
Graves, Jr. In 1933, he bought the then Europe in 1939, Henri responsible for sales
most complicated Patek Philippe pocket Stern returned to When Philippe and distribution of
watch, a technical masterpiece equipped, Switzerland for a few Patek Philippe watches
among other features, with grande and months to serve his
Stern took over the throughout the U.S.
petite sonneries, a Westminster chime, a stint in a cavalry unit of company, quartz Pfister resigned in
minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, the Swiss Army. ruled. Mechanical 1946, and Henri Stern
equation of time, an astronomical chart, In 1940 he flew watches were an began spending a lot of
and a chronograph rattrapante. The price: from Lisbon back to
endangered species. time in airplanes. “I
$60,000. In 1999, the opulent pocket New York in an old Yan- couldn’t live in Geneva
watch sold at auction for $11 million. kee Clipper. That same all year round. The in-
Charles Stern served as Chairman of year he showed up in South America, vis- ternational business more or less forced
the Board of Directors from 1935 on- iting the Patek Philippe agents there in ex- me to commute between Geneva and
ward, assisted by his son Henri. By 1937, tremely trying times. “It was more and New York.”
Henri was named head of Patek Philippe more difficult to travel during the war In 1948 Patek Philippe established its
Incorporated of America, and soon be- years. More than once I had to sleep in an own electronics department, which pre-
came familiar with every corner of the armchair in a hotel lobby because there sented its first clock in 1950. Later it took
American market. “I traveled the States were no more rooms. The work was hard, on the task of developing its own quartz
for months,” he said. “I think I knew but it had to be done – it was what my fa- movements with analog time displays, as
history: PAtEK PhiLiPPE

wristwatches, containing the legendary ple paid at the auction for the 150th an-
Beta 21 caliber, were introduced at the niversary of Patek Philippe in 1989 were
Basel Fair on April 10, 1970. unnaturally high. That is why they’ve lev-
Henri Stern successfully guided the eled back off again.” Stern backed up his
family firm until 1977, when he yielded words with action. He consistently limited
the helm to his son Philippe. Born in the development and production of par-
1938, thoughtful and dynamic in equal ticularly speculative wristwatches with
measures, Philippe Stern has taken Patek complex additional functions like a
Philippe to new heights over the last two chronograph, a perpetual calendar, a
decades. tourbillon or a minute repeater. “At Patek
However, when Philippe Stern took Philippe we are looking for stability in the
over the manufactory, times were not so market. We have no desire to make com-
easy. King Quartz reigned supreme, and plications simply for complication’s sake.
only the most old-fashioned executive still For example, we have no intention of pro-
gave any thought to mechanical watch- ducing a self-winding chronograph with a
es. Philippe Stern had little choice but to flyback seconds hand, perpetual calendar
attempt to straddle the awkward gap be- and minute repeater. We could easily do
tween tradition and modernity – in other it, but we regard such massive watches as Patek Philippe’s first quartz watch,
Ref. 3603/1, with caliber Beta 21,
words, to maintain parity between elec- more for show.”
1970
tronic and mechanical wristwatches. For Stern pared back production of highly
instance, 70% of Patek’s women’s wrist- complicated models, systematically
watches were powered by quartz move- thinned out the dealer network, and im-
ments. posed iron discipline on distribution part-
Yet in the next few years the picture ners. Complicated pieces could no longer
slowly but surely changed. Around 1984, be ordered for stock; today, orders must
collecting vintage wristwatches came be accompanied by a down payment and
into vogue and sparked a tumultuous re- the buyer’s name. Success has proved
naissance in mechanical watches. One of Philippe Stern right. Patek Philippe’s new
the greatest beneficiaries by far was watches are more coveted than ever, as is ny’s more than 160 years of history to its their dividends than in any such building.
Patek Philippe. Prices for timepieces from evidenced by the continually growing de- position today: “Our history is extremely As a family operation with a deep tradi-
past decades soared. By 1989, when mand. Potential customers may wait sev- important to our all-around success. Patek tion, we can always take the time to think
Patek Philippe celebrated the 150th an- eral months for certain models. They un- Philippe has been an uninterrupted pres- out carefully what we want to do, and
niversary of its founding, “Patek fever” derstand why, and are willing to wait, un- ence on the market since 1839, and has what we don’t. Such as holding on to old
The Patek Philippe showroom, located on Rue du Rhone at Patek Philippe’s former had infected watch connoisseurs and complainingly, for their watches. regularly made news with outstanding strategies, or planning new ones. Or de-
headquarters (below)
was reaching new heights. A book on the Maintaining its “high-mech” heritage products. That represents a very material veloping a new movement, which takes
firm’s wristwatches stimulated the mar- is of fundamental importance for Patek contribution to a brand’s reputation. The three to four years. But it makes no dif-
ket still further. A Patek Philippe anniver- Philippe. “Most of the men’s watches we crucial factor for us is that down through ference. What counts for us in the end is
sary auction generated sensational make today incorporate mechanical the years, we’ve always made watches. the result. And the result has to meet our
prices. Limited-edition models sold out movements,” says Stern. “Our quartz That, in turn, has brought us a great deal high expectations.”
entirely in advance. A chronograph with a watches are primarily for women. Many of indispensable know-how, from which In this family firm, the owner guides
flyback seconds hand (ref. no. 1436) that women prefer quartz technology for its naturally we can profit today.” events personally. Stern’s designated suc-
had sold for about $1,000 at a watch convenience. With quartz, you don’t That know-how has taken Patek cessor is his son, Thierry. Says Stern: “I
shop in 1961, was auctioned for more have to wind and set the watch.” Re- Philippe to the very top of the luxury hope Thierry will stick with the strategy of
than $175,000 not even 30 years later. gardless of which type watch trade – and al- keeping Patek Philippe an independent
Patek’s limited-edition officer’s watch of they are, almost all most without rivals. family firm.” Thierry, for his part, feels
1989 fetched more than twice its original movements used today The family firm’s What other maker can thoroughly at home in his role as Crown
price. come from the compa- independence offer such a broad Prince, though he admits that “it’s not al-
One rather skeptical witness to this ny’s own manufactory. seems assured. range of complications ways easy. But it’s wonderful being able
feeding frenzy was Philippe Stern. “Of Patek Philippe buys only Thierry Stern calls or such a degree of sus- to work with my father, and learn from
course we like to see our timepieces main- the movement blanks tained continuity? “This him. Of course it would be my goal too to
taining their value,” he commented in for its hand-wound
it his top priority. is where a family firm remain independent and not be swal-
1993, “but when one so often hears that chronograph from out- has real advantages,” lowed up in a corporate group. I realize
you can buy a new Patek Philippe today side suppliers. But that Stern explains. “We can Patek Philippe embodies a style all its
and resell it at a big profit tomorrow – I too probably will change soon. “We’re plan and invest long-range, because we own, and I hope I have a real sense for
think that’s simply dishonest. If someone working on a movement of that kind,” know exactly who we’re doing it for. Our that style. It would be extremely impor-
buys a Patek, first and foremost he should reports Stern. But he’s keeping mum as to new factory would certainly never have tant to me to preserve our customers’
enjoy it. Then there will be no disappoint- when it will reach the market. been built if Patek Philippe were under confidence in our taste.” Thierry is well
ments if prices don’t develop as expected. By contrast, Stern is anything but taci- the umbrella of a corporate group. The aware of the difficulties in having to tread
And another thing: I think the prices peo- turn about the significance of the compa- shareholders would be more interested in in the footsteps of such a successful fa-
history: PAtEK PhiLiPPE

ther. “But I’d rather be in this situation

than any other,” he says. “I’m very proud
of what he’s achieved, and I hope I can
accomplish something similar, possibly
even better. Why not? But there’s a lot to
learn, first.”
He has no lack of role models. History is
always a presence at Patek Philippe.
Philippe Stern, a graduate in business ad-
ministration and a seasoned manager, is at
Thierry’s side to help. He sent Thierry to
Germany to gather retail experience at
Wempe and Huber. And in New York,
where his grandfather Henri once did such
important developmental work, Thierry
Stern learned to handle distribution for an
entire country. He also completed a course
in watchmaking. Now he’s back at the
head office in Geneva, working his way
through all departments. As president-
designate, he has to know all the different
things that go on in the
company. The competition
never sleeps, and avid in-
vestors are just waiting for a
chance to add this priceless
Movement of a Patek Philippe pearl to their portfolio.
pocket watch with a screw com- Which is one major reason Exclusive limited-edition watches: To celebrate the opening of the new watchmaking workshops in 1997, the Pagoda (top left)
was produced in an edition of 2,000 men’s models (Ref. 5500) and 750 ladies’ models (Ref. 4900). The self-winding minute repeater
pensation balance, typical index why Thierry Stern repeated-
cam for the regulator adjuster, and (Ref. 5029), commemorating the same event, was produced in a strictly limited edition of only 30 watches (top right). On the
ly emphasizes that preserv- occasion of its 150th anniversary in 1989, Patek Philippe launched several new models, among them the Ref. 3969, a men’s watch
the Geneva Seal (bottom left) ing independence is his top with a jumping digital hour indicator (edition of 500, bottom left) and the officer’s watch (Ref. 3960, edition of 2,200,bottom
goal. “My father laid the right), modeled after an original dating from 1916.
Right: Cover of the first edition
of “Keyless Watches” by Adrien groundwork. Our manufac-
Philippe, Paris 1863 tory couldn’t be better, the
collection is just right. I’ll fol-
View of the old city with the lake low him, of course, in keep-
and the fountain, 1886 ing complicated watches
and developing new cal-
ibers. And for the rest, I
have to give a great deal of
attention to sales and the
creative side. Both are very
important for keeping
Patek Philippe at the top.”
A small portion of all that Patek
Philippe has achieved in technology and
watchmaking over more than 160 years
is gathered in a prestigious collection that
now comprises more than 2,000 pocket
watches and wristwatches. A representa-
tive sample of these will be on display at
the company’s new museum starting in
the autumn of 2001. Then, anyone who
is interested can experience the great tra-
dition of this Geneva family firm first-
hand. And discover that historical reality
at Patek Philippe is far more fascinating
than any words or pictures can explain.
Gisbert L. Brunner