Hamburg in Your Pocket
Hamburg in Your Pocket
HAMBURG
                                                  Reeperbahn
                                                  The music festival
                       September - October 2008
                                                  Hamburg’s best
                                                  sights
                                                  Harbour, Museums
                                                  & Churches
        N°11
 Complimentary copy
www.inyourpocket.com
                                                                        CONTENTS                      3
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving                                     5
Getting there and oriented
History                                      6
From Vikings to prosperity
Glossary                                     7
The basics
2008 Highlights                             11
Hamburg events to look forward to
Where to stay                               12
From park bench to Park Grand                                                                   JvM
Restaurants                                 19
From fine dining to fast food
                                                    Nightlife                                  24
                                                    Bars, clubs and general debauchery
                                                    What to see                                29
                                                    Sights in and around town
                                                    Hamburg Harbour                            37
                                                    From fishing village to container port
                                                    Getting around                             38
                                                    Trains, planes and taxis
                                                    Shopping                                   41
                                                    Souvenirs, food and books
                                                    Directory                                  43
                                                    Banks, pharmacies and hairdressers
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Concerts
    Art Galleries                                                                                                                                             professional theatre putting on eight performances per week.
                                                                                                                                                              The repertoir runs from classics to comedy and thrillers. Tickets                                   Hamburg musicals                                               4 Sept, 19:00                                                    SP
    Deichtorhallen H-3, Deichtorstr. 1-2, MSteinstr., tel.                                                                                                    bought online are cheaper. Q Performances Mon-Sat 19:30;                                                                                                           Roger Cicero & Big Band (Swing)
    32 10 30, www.deichtorhallen.de. Apparently one of                                                                                                        Tue, Fri also 11:00. Tickets €23-28.50, matinees €15.                                               Its possible to see several musicals in Hamburg, though        Tour 2008
    the best-known exhibition galleries in the world, these two                                                                                               State Opera F-2, Dammtorstr. 28, MGänsemarkt, tel. 35                                               only a handful are in English. Some Stage Entertainment
    former market halls make up some 6,000m2 of exhibition                                                                                                    68 68, www.hamburgische-staatsoper.de. Enjoy operas and                                             productions make an entertaining night out despite the         9 Sept, 21:30                                                    HK
    space. Deichtorstr. 1 is given over to contemporary art, whilst                                                                                           ballets written or inspired by Mozart, Shakespeare and others.                                      texts being in German. The Lion King show, based on the        Agent Orange (Punk)
    Deichtorstr. 2 focuses primarily on photography, although at                                                                                              The building from the outside looks somehow not classic enough                                      Disney classic about Simba the lion, features the hit song
    the time of writing it was showing a wonderful Charlie Chaplin                                                                                            for the pieces that are performed nightly. However, the interior                                    ‘Hakuna Matata’. From 19 October, Hamburg also hosts the       11 Sept, 21:00                                                    FA
    retrospective complete with photographs and films. QOpen                                                                                                  is elaborate and inspiring. Students can buy discounted tickets                                     musical Tarzan, with music by Phil Collins. Lion King shows    Jaki Liebezeit & Burnt Friedman (Jazz)
    11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.     Hamburg CARD
                                   3-Tage-Karte | 3-Day-Ticket
                                                                             Einzel
                                                                                                                                                              on the night of performance. Q Box office open 10:00-18:30,                                         run at Tue, Wed 18:30, Thu, Fri 20:00, Sat 15:00 and           Secret Rhythms 3
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  20:00, Sun 14:00 and 19:00. Tarzan will run Tue, Thu,Fri
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  20:00, Wed 18:30, Sat 15:00 and 20:00, Sun 14:00
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                                                                                                                                                                                                       24 November - 23 December
      English Theatre                                              New in the city                                                                                                                     Christmas in Hamburg
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Historical Christmas market on Rathausmarkt
      The English Theatre of Hamburg, located north-east of        International Maritime Museum Hamburg                                                                                               Traditional Christmas markets on Spitalerstraße, St. Petri-Kirche,
      the centre near Mundsburg U-Bahn station, is a profes-                                                                                                                                           Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz. Hanseatic Christmas market on
      sional theatre that was founded in 1976. Between 11          Hamburg has got a new                                                                                                               Gänsemarkt
      September and 15 November you can see the play               sea-mark! The Interna-                                                                                                              Winterzauber fair on Jungfernstieg
      Treats by Christopher Hampton, an intelligent, witty play    tional Maritime Museum                                                                                                              Fleetinsel-Markt
      about sexual manners and manipulation. Why do people         Hamburg. Inaugurated on                                                                                                             Winter fun in front of the Deichtorhallen
      make the wrong decisions in matters of love? Ann has         25 June 2008 by German
      tried to free herself from Dave by taking on a new lover,    Bundespräsident Horst                                                                                                               29 November - 7 December
      Patrick, while Dave is away in Iraq. Now back in London,     Köhler, Hamburg mayor Ole                                                                                                           You and your world
      Dave is enraged. He is determined to win back his girl,      von Beust, and Professor                                                                                                            Consumer fair
      forcing Ann to choose between the two young men. Will        Peter Tamm the museum                                                                                                               Hamburg Messe
      she return to charismatic Dave who abuses and cheats         invites you on an expedi-
      on her, or stay with nice-but-dull Patrick? First staged     tion through 3000 years of
      in London in 1976, the play was revived successfully in      navy history. Nine “decks”                                                                                                          December 2008
      2007 in this updated version.                                in the historic Warehouse                                                                                                           5-7 December
      English Theatre, Lerchenfeld 14, M Mundsburg,                B tell about discoverers                                                                                                    JvM
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Modellbauwelt Hamburg
      tel. 227 70 89, www.englishtheatre.de.                       and conquerors, captains                    © Internationales                                                                       Fair for car, railway, plane and ship model building
                                                                   and sailors.                             Maritimes Museum         September 2008                                                    Hamburg Messe
                                                                   When his mother gave him                     Hamburg / Zapf       5-7 September
     7 Oct, 20:00                                            GS    the gift of a model coastal                                       Harburger Außenmühlenfest                                         12-14 December
     Primal Scream (Rock)                                          motor ship, six years old Peter Tamm could not have known         Festival around the Außenmühlenteich in Hamburg-Harburg           Mineralien hamburg
                                                                   that these thoughts many years later would become the                                                                               International fair for minerals, fossils, precious stones and
     8 Oct, 20:00                                            DC    theme of a unique maritime collection. The gift took up a         6 September - 4 October                                           jewellery
     Paul Weller (Songwriter)                                      place of honour in his collection and that because it was         Verdi Weeks                                                       Hamburg Messe
                                                                   the beginning of a passion that stamped his life from his         Hamburgische Staatsoper
     9 Oct, 20:00                                            LM    birth on 28 May 1928 in Hamburg to the present day.
     Steve Winwood                                                 Today his collection comprises around 36,000 small and            7 September (planned)                                             Ask for more information about events in Hamburg at:
                                                                   900 big ship models, 5,000 pictures, 120,000 books and            Vattenfall Cyclassics                                             Hamburg Tourismus GmbH
     10 Oct, 20:00                                            CL   atlases, 50,000 construction plans, numerous documents,           World cup cycling for professionals and amateurs                  Postfach 10 22 49,
     Udo Lindenberg & Das Panikorchester (Rock)                    uniforms, weapons, trade gadgets, nautical and signal de-         Start and finish: Mönckebergstraße                                20015 Hamburg
     ‘Stark wie zwei’                                              vices, furniture, menus, porcelain, silver, and much more.                                                                          Tel. 040/300 51 300
                                                                   The paintings of the extensive collection, the corre-             13 September                                                      Fax 040/300 51-333
     15 Oct, 21:00                                           GF    spondence, reports, and documentation give a living               Hamburger Theaternacht                                            info@hamburg-tourism.de
     Heather Nova (Songwriter)                                     testimony of history and its people. In order to make             Mit Bussen, Bahnen und Alsterdampfern quer durch die Stadt, von   www.hamburg-tourism.de
                                                                   this accessible to future generations in an appropriate           Theater zu Theater. Mehr als 30 Hamburger Bühnen beteiligen       Note: changes may occur to the list of events above, researched
     16 Oct, 21:00                                      FA         framework, Peter Tamm determined to transfer his col-             sich an der „Hamburger Theaternacht“                              in August 2008.
     Stanley Clarke / Marcus Miller / Victor Wooten (Jazz)         lection into a foundation and thus making it accessible to
                                                                   the public. The foundation operates the first international       14 September - 30 November
     18 Oct, 17:30                                    CL           maritime museum in the world.                                     Kinder, Kinder! children’s festival
     Rock & Pop Classics Live: Suzi Quattro / Boney M              The museum provides a forum for the evidence of the past          Various locations in Hamburg
                                                                   whereby it can tell the visitors the story of its history - and
     23 Oct, 21:00                                            FA   this in the historical context in which it arose. So perhaps      23-26 September
     Calexico (Alternative)                                        it can, through the past successes and errors of mankind,         SMM
                                                                   succeed in providing lasting lessons for the future.              Shipbuilding, machinery and marine technology fair
     28 Oct, 20:00                                           GF                                                                      Hamburg Messe
     The Streets (Rap)                                             Koreastraße 1
     Everything is borrowed tour                                   tel. 300 92 300
                                                                   (M) Messberg                                                      October 2008
     31 Oct, 20:00                                            CL   www.internationales-maritimes-museum.de                           3 October
     Leonard Cohen (Songwriter)                                    Open Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun 10:00-18:00                       Day of German Unification, with a festival until 5
                                                                   Thu 10:00-20:00, closed on Mondays                                October
                                                                   Admission €10, children €7                                        Hamburg plays centre stage for the national event
     Exhibitions
     Until 7 September                                       DH                                                                      19 October
     F.C. Gundlach: Photography                                                                                                      Die Walküre
                                                                                                                                     Hamburgische Staatsoper
     Until 14 September                                      KH
     Mark Rothko - Retrospektive                                                                                                     25 October - 2 November
                                                                                                                                     Hanseboot
     Until 30 September                                      AM                                                                      International boat fair Hamburg
     A panorama of the River Elbe                                                                                                    Hamburg Messe
                                           Symbol key
                                           P Air conditioning      A Credit cards accepted
                                           O Casino                H Conference facilities
                                           T Child friendly        U Facilities for the disabled
                                           R Internet W Wi-Fi      L Guarded parking
        „welcome to feel at home”          F Fitness centre        G Non-smoking rooms
                                           K Restaurant            M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
                                           D Sauna                 C Swimming pool
                                                                       89 w              *
                                                               *Per suite per night for 1-2 persons
                                                                                                                                             thanks to plenty of humourous touches to the sci-fi design,
                                                                                                                                             Side looks a bit like a 25th-century intergalactic waiting
                                                                                                                                             room. The rooms start from the lowest Superiors through
                                                                                                                                             to XXL suites that continue with the avant-garde theme. As
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 • Free cancellation up to one day
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   before arrival
                                                                                                                                             you’d expect, amenities are awesome, including a yellow spa
                                                                                                                                             complete with special 15-minute massages for those who
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Hamburg CARD
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Our tip for
                                                                                                                                             need a little unwinding during their lunch breaks. Wonderful.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Einzel
                                                                                                                                             Q PTHAUFGKDCW                                                       your stay –        3-Tage-Kar
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               te | 3-Day-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Ticket
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Hamburg CARD!
                                                                                                                                             Steigenberger Hotel Hamburg Heiligengeistbrücke
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           | Date
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Datum
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             | Single
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Einzel
                                                                          Oper F-2, Drehbahn 15-23, MGänsemarkt, tel. 35 60 10,              Hamburg’s restaurant scene offers varied and on the
                                                                          fax 35 60 13 10, info@hotel-oper.de, www.hotel-oper.de.            whole excellent food. Note that many restaurants do not               Symbol key
                                                                          Extremely popular, meaning we never got a chance to have           accept credit cards, though perhaps debit cards.
                                                                          a look inside any of the 120 rooms or suites, this budget                                                                                 P Air conditioning       A Credit cards accepted
                                                                          hotel right in the city centre offers clean albeit unrenovated
                                                                          comfort with en suite facilities, soundproof windows and           Asian                                                                  E Live music             S Take away
                                                                          charming receptionists for the price. Catering is provided         Bok D-2, Schanzenstr. 27, MSternschanze, tel. 430                      T Child friendly         U Facilities for the disabled
                                                                          courtesy of the Chinese restaurant next door. Q (10 singles        67 80, info@bokrestaurant.de, www.bokgmbh.com.                         G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
                                                                          €55 - 76, 80 doubles €66 - 110, 2 apartments €175 - 315).          Hamburg’s own version of a restaurant chain has 4 locations
                                                                          ALGKW                                                              in the city. All provide an extensive menu of Chinese, Japanese,       O Casino                 M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
                                                                                                                                             Korean and Thai dishes. A popular place due to its reasonable          R Internet               W Wi-Fi connection
                                                                          Under €75                                                          prices, tasty mains and pleasing atmosphere. A reservation at
                                                                                                                                             the weekend is recommended. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. P
                                                                          Residence Hambur g I-2, Steindamm 24-26,
                                                                          MHauptbahnhof, tel. 280 03 60, fax 28 00 36 36, www.               Cha Cha F-2/3, Große Bleichen 16, MJungfernstieg,                    Cafés
                                                                          hotel-residence-hamburg.de. All the rooms in this 3-star           tel. 822 28 70 80, service@eatchacha.com, www.                       Cafébar Juli C/D-1, Schulterblatt 114,
                                                                          hotel are similar to each other in design - slightly sterile but   eatchacha.com. A great place to stop by for tasty Thai food.         MSternschanze, tel. 43 21 46 96, kontakt@dasjuli.
                                                                          nonetheless comfortable. Prices reflect the simplicity, though.    The long wooden tables compliment the simple surroundings            de, www.cafebar-juli.de. A fantastic-looking place with
                                                                          Central location is what makes this a worthy stay. If looking      and leave open the possibility that you might be sitting next        dark red walls, psychadelic lampshades and strange
                                                                          for convenience on a budget, you have found the right place.       to someone you don’t know. But that makes it much more               portraits on the walls, Cafebar Juli is both a hip place to
                                                                          Q (3 singles €49, 12 doubles €69, 5 triples €99 - 105, 4           interesting. The six categories on the menu consist of salads,       eat quality breakfast and well as one of the better venues
                                                                          quads €110 - 120). ALGW                                            soups, currys, fried, fusions and desserts. Something for            in the area for evening drinks amdist the jangle of some
                                                                                                                                             everyone. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. P                                     of the city’s more eclectic DJs. Q Mon-Fri from 10:00,
                                                                          Hostels                                                            Chilli Club G-4, Am Sandtorkai 54, MBaumwall, tel.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Sat, Sun from 11:00.
                                                                          Instant Sle ep B-2, Max-Brauer-Allee 277,                          35703580, www.chilliclub.de. A chill lounge with chilli flavour.     Café Paris Rathausstr. 4, MRathaus, tel. 32
     Hotel Alpha H-2, Koppel 4-6, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 24                  MSternschanze, tel. 43 18 23 10, fax 43 18 23 11,                  This Asian place is everything at once - it’s a restaurant serving   52 77 77. Dating from 1882 this wonderful tiled old
     53 65, fax 24 37 94, rezeption@hotel-pension-alpha.                  backpacker@instantsleep.de, www.instantsleep.de.                   freshly made wok dishes, dim sum, sushi, and Asian tapas, a          butchers shop is notable for many good and interesting
     de, www.hotel-pension-alpha.de. A basic albeit friendly              Located centrally above the Bar Rossi in the Schanzenviertel,      lounge bar with cocktails, wine and DJs spinning relaxed music,      things. Generall y packed wi th a mixed crowd of ar ty
     guesthouse just around the corner from the Hauptbahnhof run          this low-budget pension is perfect for the backpacker. Women       and to top it all off there’s a lovely waterfront terrace with red   people and the occasional local character, there’s no
     by a charming family. The rooms have seen better days and            can opt for separate accommodations. Breakfast is not              cushions for enjoying summer sunsets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.           piped music, the staff speak French and you’re almost
     are perhaps a little too chintzy for some, but with a choice of      offered and there is a mandatory €2 charge for bedding. With       Lounge open daily from 12:00.                                        guaranteed to stumble into a lively conversation at the
     en suite and shared bathroom facilities, satellite television and    the money you save in overall price, you can still afford both                                                                          bar. Q Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun
     a home-like atmosphere this is certainly worth considering if        though. Q (3 doubles €22 - 28, 5 triples €20, 1 quad €18,          Doi Falkenried 30, MHoheluftbrücke, tel. 30 03 38                    10:00 - 01:00.
     you prefer the kind of personal touch that didn’t get its training   1 5 €18 -, 1 8 €17 -, 1 25 €15 - ).                                38, enjoy@doi-hamburg.de, www.doi-hamburg.de. This
     at hotel school. Recommended. Q (7 singles €34 - 44, 7                                                                                  Thai/Italian inspired restaurant gets its name from the              Die Rösterei G-3, Mönckebergstraße 7, tel. 30 39 37
     doubles €68 - 78, 2 quads €112). ALG                                 Schanzenstern Bartelstr. 24-26, MSternschanze,                     highest point in Thailand (1676m, if you want to impress the         35, www.die-roesterei.com. The aroma of freshly roasted
                                                                          tel. 439 84 41, fax 439 34 13, info@schanzenstern.de,              waitress). Exotic fruits and curry flavours adorn the dishes         coffee beans is irresistible in this charming, classic café.
     Hotel am Rothenbaum Rothenbaumchaussee 107,                          www.schanzenstern.de. Choose from a choice of a single to          and the black and white decor adds to the overall soothing           Open for breakfast, lunch and light meals throughout the
     MHallerstr., tel. 44 60 06, fax 44 93 74, info@hotel-am-             a five-person room or share a dormitory room, but be sure to       atmosphere. Try a black noodle bolognese accompanied                 day, there are newspapers to browse and plenty of delicious
     rothenbaum.de, www.hotel-am-rothenbaum.de. A small                   note there is no smoking in single and double rooms. Rooms         by an Italian wine and followed by a Tiramisu. Bus N°5 to            cakes to sample. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00.
     hotel in Harvestehude with 28 rooms in varying size. Most are        are practically bare aside from beds, but at these rates you       Eppendorfer Weg. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00,             Closed Sun.
     done in muted tones and are comfortable and clean. Prices            cannot expect much more than a safe, clean place to sleep.         Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
     are very reasonable and a good breakfast buffet is included.         A small breakfast or buffet are offered at extra cost. Q (6                                                                             Gloria D-1, Bellealliancestr. 31-33,
     A short walk will take you to the Outer Alster. Q (19 singles        singles €36 - 42, 6 doubles €51 - 63, 1 triple €63 - 70, 6         Fusion F-2, Drehbahn 49, MGänsemarkt, tel. 30 99 90,                 MChristuskirche, tel. 43 29 04 64, www.gloriabar.
     €99, 9 doubles €115). PA                                             quads €74 - 83). AGK                                               fusion@side-hamburg.de. A hotel restaurant that serves               de. Cool lights and cool people fill up this café dail y.
                                                                                                                                             lemon ravioli with Asian vegetables and ginger curry sauce for       Si t at the counter on a 50s-inspired stool and sample
     Hotel Schwanenwik Schwanenwik 29, tel. 220 09 18,                                                                                       breakfast can’t be bad. The Side hotel’s in-house food joint         a tasty breakfast, lunch or dinner. Brunch is ser ved
     fax 229 04 46, info@hotel-schwanenwik.de, www.hotel-                                                                                    is, in fact, better than not bad. With row upon row of dinky         from 11-4 on Sundays and offers qui te a variet y of
     schwanenwik.de. A hotel with reasonable rates and clean,                                                                                white seats and a cool minimalist interior the whole place           seemingl y h eal thy options. Q Mon-Fri from 10:00,
     quaint quarters. With only eighteen rooms to fill, the house                                                                            could easily turn to kitsch but is saved by some great Asian         Sat, Sun from 11:00.
     feels quite personable. The staff is friendly and inviting and                                                                          food and the fact that they don’t employ dopey supermodels
     eager to answer any questions. Thehotel is located directly                                                                             as waitresses. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 24:00,          Jena Paradies H-3, Klosterwall 23, MSteinstr., tel.
     on the Alster bank and shopping is not far either. For those                                                                            Sun 06:00 - 23:00. A                                                 32 70 08, www.jena-paradies.net. A classic German
     travelling on a budget, but who don’t want to sacrifice quality.                                                                                                                                             café with some extremely bizarre lighting and a small
     Bus No.6 to Mundsburgerbrücke. Q18 rooms (7 singles                                                                                     Kham I-2, Lange Reihe 97, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 28 00                  daily menu of meat, pasta, veal and one or two delicious
     €44 - 68, 11 doubles €66 - 90). AL                                                                                                      48 68. A smallish restaurant on two floors with a Tibetan chef,      desserts and homemade cakes. Popular with a slightly
                                                                                                                                             and dealing primarily in Tibetan food, but also cooking other        older crowd, it’s also worth popping in for a decent cup
     Ibis Hambur g Alster H-2, Holzdamm 4-12,                                                                                                Asian cuisine. The menu includes sushi, vegetarian dishes,           of coffee and a crusty baguette. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
     MHauptbahnhof, tel. 24 82 90, fax 24 82 97 34,                                                                                          Thai curry and noodles as well as green tea and sake. The            Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
     h1395@accor.com, www.ibishotel.com. Easy to find                                                                                        food is good, reasonably priced, and comes with a compli-
     thanks to the huge electronic sign outside flashing away the                                                                            mentary soup starter. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. A                         Literaturhaus Café I-1, Schwanenwik 38, tel.
     room rates, Hamburg’s Ibis, despite recently receiving a half-                                                                                                                                               220 13 00, mail@literaturhauscaf e.de, w w w.
     star upgrade, remains your classic identikit Ibis. Notable as                                                                           Sala Thai H-2, Brandsende 6, tel. 33 50 09, www.sal-                 literaturhauscafe.de. A perfect stop for food and book
     the most expensive Ibis in Germany the price is still a good                                                                            athai.de. Eating in this Thai restaurant is done the authentic       aficionados. The café is located in a grand, old Hamburg
     one considering it’s practically rubbing shoudlers with the                                                                             way, with just spoons and forks and seated on cushions if            house with Alster-front property. Perfect place to read a
     hauptbahnhof and is in easy walking distance of practically                                                                             you so wish. Sala has two outlets in central Hamburg, both           book over a cup of coffee or to have an elegant dinner.
     everything. Add-ons include a wireless internet, a rather                                                                               getting rave reviews about the food, made fresh to order,            Patrons are equall y well-read and sophisticated, so
     dreary bar and free internet in the lobby. Q (65 singles €79 -                                                                          and the presentation - service with a smile. Also at G-4, Am         you’ll fit right in. Bus N°6 to Averhoffstr. Q Open 10:00
     88, 100 doubles €94 - 112). PALW                                                                                                        Kaiserkai 1, tel. 32 39 09.                                          - 24:00. A
     Alex G-2, Jungfernstieg 54, MJungfernstieg, tel. 350 18               quiet charming Eppendorf. On weekends a nice breakfast              San Michele Jarrestr. 2, MSaarlandstraße, tel. 37 11
     70. Sitting at the foot of the Inner Alster in the centre of town,    and small play area will please both parents and children.          27, post@san-michele.de, www.san-michele.de. One of                           Portuguese Quarter
     Alex has one of the best views of the river. Lunches are slightly     Afterwards, take advantage of the canoe rentals directly            Hamburg’s illustrious award-winning gourmet restaurants,
     overpriced for what they are and Sunday brunch can be crowded         below the restaurant to further explore the area. QOpen             San Michele is an elegant, immaculate place, yet pleasantly                   After strolling down the Landungsbrücken quay and a
     and smoky in spite of the restaurant’s large size. However, many      12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A                            informal. Food includes fish, freshly made pasta dishes, a                    doing the harbour tour, many visitors to Hamburg simply
     would argue that the prime location outweighs any cons. QOpen                                                                             changing daily menu and quality pizza.Q Open Mon-Fri                          hop on the metro to get back to the earnest business of
     08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. B           Kaisers F-4, Am Kaiserkai 23, tel. 36 09 17 90, www.                12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, Sat 17:00-23:00. A                                  shopping. Just behind the harbour however lies a charm-
                                                                           kaisers-hamburg.de. Set between the cruiseliner terminal                                                                                          ing small neighbourhood that is typical of Hamburg,
     Atlantic Restaurant H-2, An der Alster 72-97,                         and the new Elbphilharmonie building in the Hafencity harbour       Schönes Leben Alter Wandrahm 15, tel. 180 48 26 80,                           yet completely unique at the same time. The centre of
     MHauptbahnhof, tel. 288 88 60, fax 24 71 29,                          area, here’s a great place to sit and watch the comings and         www.schoenes-leben-hamburg.de. It’s easy to live the good life                Hamburg’s sizeable Portuguese and southern European
     restaurant.atlantic@kempinski.com, http://www.                        goings of ships on the water. The restaurant serves a range         at Schönes Leben. Serving everything from Hamburger currywurst                community since the 1960s, the Portugiesenviertel
     atlantic.de/de/bars/index.htm?id=751. A hugely popular                of international dishes and limits its good-value lunchtime         to sushi, fresh fish and Italian dishes, it’s hard to make a choice, just     consists of just a handful of streets around the Ditmar-
     restaurant for those who can afford it and run by a very              offerings to a few changing dishes - though you can always          like in real life. Perhaps the best thing about Schönes Leben is it’s         Koel-Straße in the Neustadt district that are home to over
     charming man indeed, the Atlantic oozes sophistication and            order the famous currywurst or ‘harbour schnitzel’. QOpen           lovely design, with plenty of light, elegant wooden floors, pillars and       a dozen Portuguese restaurants, bars and pastelarias.
     yet retains an informal and relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine           10:00 - 23:00.                                                      furniture, and an inviting display of irresistible cakes. There’s also        It’s the best place in Hamburg – some say in Northern
     includes such fabulous sounding dishes as goose liver in                                                                                  a breakfast buffet every day, with a special brunch every Sundays.            Europe – to sample authentic tapas, delicious fresh
     caramelised apples and dessert nougat ravioli with sour ice           Haerlin G-2, Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14, MGänsemarkt,                 QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.                                       seafood dishes and tasty Portuguese wines.
     cream. Notable diners have included the Rolling Stones, who           tel. 34 94 33 10, hamburg@fairmont.com, www.hvj.
     ate here every night when playing in the city. QOpen 12:00 -          de. A classy silver service gourmet restaurant inside the           Schlachterbörse Wolfgang Süße Kampstr. 42,
     15:00, 18:00-23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. A                              Raffles hotel that sets the standard in high living and fine        MFeldstr., tel. 43 65 43, www.schlachterboerse.de.                          Italian favourites with southern flair. Unusually, the kitchen is
                                                                           dining. Food includes the chef’s famous lamb dishes, fillet         This restaurant may just provide some of Hamburg’s best                     open all afternoon and until midnight, so you can eat when you
     Au Quai A-4, Große Elbstr. 145b-d, MKönigstr., tel. 38                soul, lobster and rhubarb tart. There are over 1,500 wines          meat. The menu is full of various steaks and filets in all sizes            want. The food and wine attract the rich and famous, so they’re
     03 77 30, fax 380 377 32, INFO@AU-QUAI.COM, www.                      to choose from as well. Painfully expensive but worth every         and varieties. Order a dish for two, or enjoy a single (large)              certainly good enough for you QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
     au-quai.com. Having once served in Hamburg’s port as a                penny if you can afford it. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed             portion. Appetisers are equally rich and delicious. Not for the
     refrigerated warehouse, Au Quai now serves to please. Head            Mon, Sun. AE                                                        light of heart or those worrying about their heart, but for all             Pane e Tulipani H-3, Klosterwall 23, tel. 80 60 16 88,
     Chef Danny Riewoldt has created a delightful menu, including                                                                              others - dig in. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A                         www.pane-e-tulipani.eu. The striking white interior alone,
     favourites such as grilled tuna with Asian-inspired vegetables        Knuth A-2/3, Große Rainstr. 2, MAltona, tel. 46 00 87                                                                                           with dozens of chandeliers hanging from the high ceilings,
     and varieties of homemade ice cream. On a warm evening                08, fax 46 00 87 01. Hidden behind the Mercado shopping             Turnhalle St. Georg H-2, Lange Reihe 70, MSt. Georg, tel.                   makes visiting this Italian restaurant worthwhile. And then we
     take advantage of their Elbe terrace. Q Open 12:00-22:30,             area, Knuth offers breakfast, lunch and dinner served by            28 00 84 80, service@turnhalle.com, www.turnhalle.com. It                   haven’t even mentioned the food, the wines and the desserts.
     Sat 18:00-22:30. Closed Sun. PAB                                      attractive, friendly staff. Patrons range from retirees working     is hard to believe this chic restaurant was at one time a sports hall.      A top quality experience for a very reasonable price. QOpen
                                                                           on crossword puzzles to hipsters taking a coffee break. The         However, the gymnastic rings and other equipment serve to remind            12:00 - 01:00, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun.
     Cox H-2, Lange Reihe 68, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 24                       restaurant is large but seats can be scarce. A variety of soups     its patrons. The lunch menu is limited to pizzas and a few choice
     94 22, fax 280 50 902, www.restaurant-cox.de. With
     changing daily lunch and evening menus, this lovely restaurant
                                                                           and ciabatta sandwiches are worth a small wait, though.
                                                                           QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. GB
                                                                                                                                               entrees. Dinner, however, provides an extensive, tasty menu and
                                                                                                                                               a worthwhile scene. QOpen 09:30 - 02:00. P                                  Spanish
     with shades of pastel yellow and white tablecloths attracts a                                                                                                                                                         Altamira Bahrenfelder Str. 331, MOttensen, tel. 85
                                                                           Louise Maria-Louisen-Str. 3, tel. 85 10 48 42, fax 85
     media crowd who come to celebrate the chef’s cooking rather
     than the décor. Very nouvelle cuisine, the food is reasonably         10 48 46. The atmosphere smacks of red velvet and light             Iranian                                                                     37 16 00, fax 853 72 410, www.cafealtamira.de. This
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Spanish restaurant in Hamburg’s trendy Ottensen offers a
     priced, which probably explains why the place is always full.         gold hues at this restaurant located in Hamburg’s Winterhude        OstWest G-3, Brandstwiete 36, MMeßberg, tel. 32 90 19                       variety of salads and tapas that will also please vegetarians.
     Booking in advanced is highly recommended. Q Open 12:00               district. Recommended is a schnitzel and an accompanying            51, info@restaurant-ostwest.de, www.restaurant-ostwest.                     While named after the Altamira cave in northern Spain, the
     - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:30. Sat, Sun 19:00 - 23:30 A                      glass of wine. Make sure to try a dessert to finish off the meal.   de. Bright and modern with lots of gleaming chrome, dark wood               cool interior reminds you of the modern Spanish world.
                                                                           Staff is friendly and professional. Bus N°109 to Streekbrücke.      and orange seating, the fare on offer here is a refreshingly different      QOpen 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
     Eisenstein Friedensallee 5, MAltona, tel. 390 46                      Q Open 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 18:00-23:00.              mix of international and Iranian food. A good spot for lunch, the
     06, www.restaurant-eisenstein.de. Named after Sergej
     Eisenstein, the Russian director of Ivan the Terrible, the pizzas
                                                                           Closed Tue PA                                                       menu includes steak, Asian finger food and an Iranian kebabs
                                                                                                                                               (chelo kebap). There’s good coffee too, and thanks to its location          Syrian
     everything but terrible. Not to be compared with the likes of         Mangold lokal D-E/2, Ölmühle 30, MFeldstr., tel. 27                 just off the tourist trail you’ll almost always find the place blissfully   Saliba A-1, Leverkusenstr. 54, MDiebstach, tel. 85 80
     Italian or American pizza, these pizzas are thin-crusted and in a     86 02 48. Mangold sits at the entrance to Marktstrasse,             empty of idiots. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. A                  71, info@saliba.de, www.saliba.de. Delicious Syrian food
     world of their own. Located in Ottensen’s Fabrik and in the area’s    one of Hamburg’s more retro shopping streets. The menu                                                                                          abounds in this restaurant located in a renovated century-old
     restaurant and bar centre, this restaurant is sure stay high on the
     must-eat list. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
                                                                           reflects the decor - simple and tasteful - and the prices are
                                                                           surprisingly low. More importantly, the restaurant’s glass front    Italian                                                                     factory. The lights and mirrors will play with your eyes all night, but
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           don’t let them distract you from the food. People here are serious
                                                                           provides patrons a window to the colourful goings-on of the         Gallo Nero Sierichstrasse 46, MSierichstrasse, tel. 27                      about their meals. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. P
     Engel Anleger Teufelsbrück, tel. 82 41 87, www.                       area. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. B                                        09 22 29, corrado@gallo-nero.net, www.gallo-nero.net.
     restaurant-engel.de. Engel means “angel” and was perhaps
     named for this restaurant’s breathtaking view of the harbour.         Mess E-2, Turnerstr. 9, MFeldstr., tel. 43 41 23,
                                                                                                                                               Run by a Sicilian, Gallo Nero serves delicate Italian specialities
                                                                                                                                               including tuna carpaccio, ruccula-parmazan pizza and seafood                Turkish
     Select from a varied menu including tasty fish and meat               kontakt@mess.de, www.mess.de. Utterly charming and                  risotto in the light and airy interior or on the garden terrace.            Taxim Spritzenplatz 4, MAltona, tel. 439 39 18.
     dishes. The restaurant is a small trek from the city centre           most certainly not a mess at all, this cute little international    There’s an enoteca too with over 160 wines - many of them                   Hamburg’s Turkish population can be proud of its spicy
     (bus N°36/286 to Teufelsbrücke Fähre) but it is well worth the        restaurant features lots of tucked away seating for the             Sicilian - for tasting sessions or to take home. A short drive              heritage at this Altona restaurant. Germans also have a good
     scenic trip. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.                  intimate shovelling in of quality nosh with a loved one. The        northeast of the city centre.                                               reason to become acquainted with Turkish delicacies at this
                                                                           one English menu offers a choice of dishes from Irish oysters                                                                                   local favourite. Choose from a list of traditional dishes while
     Filmhauskneipe Friedensallee 7, MAltona, tel. 39 90                   to homemade tagliatelle with truffles. An impressive range of       Il Girasole E-2/3, Kohlhöfen 6, MGänsemarkt, tel. 35 71                     enjoying the colourful ambiance and equally entertaining
     80 25. Be transported... sort of... to a Munich beer garden           over 250 wines too. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00.            92 61. A small Italian restaurant specialising in fish with a small         crowd. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
     while seated outside this restaurant. A row of picnic tables          Sat, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. A                                           bar to the left, decoration is minimal, with wooden seating, candles
     and stringed lights lend to the festive atmosphere, as well
     as featured artists whose work lines the walls. The staff is          Nil D-2, Neuer Pferdemarkt 6, MFeldstr., tel. 439 78
                                                                                                                                               and sunflowers in season. From the look of it you’d probably walk
                                                                                                                                               straight by, but Il Girasole is one of those places where people in         Vegetarian
     friendly and attractive and the tomato soup and large salads          23, www.restaurant-nil.de. Who would have thought an                the know like to go. As well as fish, the reasonably priced menu            Vegi Planet Rothenbaumchaussee 55, tel. 41 49 82
     are delicious. If you feel like a movie, the Zeise-Kino cinema        old shoe store would become a prime location. A young, hip          also includes pizza, pasta, and steak. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00,                15. One could hardly imagine more (actually) appetising
     is right next door. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. B                            scene has settled into Nil. Patrons can choose from a St.           18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. A                                    vegetarians options. The veggie burger could even convince
                                                                           Pauli or four-course menu or a la carte. Vegetarians also have                                                                                  beefeaters to stray... at least for one meal. In addition, there is
     Goldfisch Isekai 1, MKellinghusenstr., tel. 57 00                     options here. Perfect place to start the night, though there is     Osteria Due G-1, Badestrasse 4, tel. 410 16 51, www.os-                     an organic supermarket including books and cosmetic. Staff is
     96 90, info@goldfisch.de, www.goldfisch.de. Goldfish                  no guarantee you will want to leave. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00,           teriadue.de. A charming yellow building near the Aussenalster               not only animal-friendly, but greets all customers with a smile.
     provides a view of one of the many canals meandering through          Fri, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Tue. B                               lake holds this highly-regarded restaurant, serving traditional             QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
                                                                      Aurel A-3, Bahrenfelder Str. 157, MAltona, tel.                      Bereuther Klosterallee 100, MHoheluftbrücke, tel.
     Bars & Lounges                                                   390 27 27. Sit back and enjoy a drink and the sun here.              41 40 67 89, www.bereuther.de. This somewhat hidden                    BRICKS Tea Lounge Bar
     Absinth Bar B-2, Max-Brauer-Allee 88, MAltona, tel.              Tables are available on the street to allow you to take in           cocktail bar and restaurant is located on the corner of
     54 80 69 01, info@absinth-bar.com, www.absinth-bar.              the laid back scene in Ottensen. There is also a caipirinha          Klosterallee next to one of Hamburg’s famous canals. The                                                BRICKS F-3, Große Ble-
     com. Once only legal in Spain and the Czech Republic, this       happy hour that runs from 12:00-21:00 so be sure to                  chic interior gives it an impressive air and an extensive wine                                         ichen, MJungfernstieg,
     liquor has reemerged all over Europe with safer ingredients.     take advantage of it. Q Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat                 and Sekt champagne list will keep you fizzing for hours. Not                                           tel. 34 91 80. Communi-
     Try the famed drink of Hemingway at this bar - carefully mix     10:00 - 05:00. B                                                     many other bars in the direct vicinity, so plan to enjoy the                                           cative, modern and fresh
     the burning sugar with the alcohol before downing it and                                                                              evening here. QOpen 18:30 - 02:00. Closed Sun.                                                         but with classical Hanse-
     frizzling some braincells. On the weekends enjoy the live        Bar Eisenb er g E-F/2, Dragonerstall 15,                                                                                                                                    atic elegance that is the
     music. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. E                                    MMessehallen, tel. 0173 921 60 12, w w w.bar-                        Blaues Barhaus Große Brunnenstr. 55, MAltona, tel. 39                                                  new BRICKS Tea Lounge
                                                                      eisenberg.de. With lots of black and copper fittings                 90 58 42, www.blaues-barhaus.de. Happy Hour is called blue                                             Bar located on the ground
     Alster Cliff Fährdamm 13, MHallerstr., tel. 44 27                reminiscient of an old ice-cream parlour, Bar Eisenberg              hour at this bar/club and runs from 18:00 until at least 22:00                                         floor. Sink into one of our
     19, www.alster-cliff.de. Here you are also assured a             doubles as a friendly cocktail bar during the week, packed           most nights. Cocktails are only €5. Expect to be surrounded by                                         cosy chairs and take in
     stunning front row seat of the Alster. Perfect for a relaxing    with creatives and musicians, and as a live music venue              a hip, attractive crowd at this Ottensen bar. Staff is warm and                                        the fantastic view to the
     late afternoon beer and a little re-grouping before deciding     at the weekends. Music varies from soul to what they call            service is quick so sit back and enjoy a couple cocktails at a                                         Grosse Bleichen shopping
     on a destination for later night activities. Expect to find      the talents of the steam turbine and gas turbine systems             discount before the night gets going. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00.                                             street. Lean back and taste
     other tourists, but with equally good taste. Bus N°109 to        school. Maybe lost in translation, maybe you know what                                                                                                                      one of our sixteen different
     Alsterchaussee. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. B                           they’re going on about. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri 18:00               Bolero A-3, Bahrenfelder Str. 53, MAltona, tel. 390 78                 tea specialities accompanied by a tasty piece of cake,
                                                                      - 04:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun.                              00, info@bolerobar.de, www.bolerobar.de. Not only does                 or come in the afternoon or evening when BRICKS Tea
     Alsterperle Eduard-Rhein-Ufer 1, MUhlandstr., tel.                                                                                    this bar have a happy hour daily from 17:00-19:00 when all             Lounge Bar is a favourite meeting place to mingle and
     22 74 82 73, www.alsterperle.com. With a residence               Bar Hambur g H-2, Rautenbergstr. 6-8,                                cocktails are half price, but there is also a caipi hour from          enjoy the different drinks and exquisite snacks. Here tradi-
     directly on the Outer Alster, this waterside establishment       MHauptbahnhof, tel. 28 05 48 80, ahoi@barhamburg.                    23:00-01:00 when all varieties of caipirinhas are reduced in           tional bar culture is celebrated in a stylish atmosphere.
     is perfect for a beer or some warm Glühwein after a stroll.      com, www.barhamburg.com. With a drinks menu bigger                   price. There is also a variety of Mexican food to enjoy. The
     Take in the neighbouring mansions and the handsome               than a family Bible, Bar Hamburg is pure cutting edge.               mood is always light and don’t be surprised to see some
     runners that also appreciate an amazing view of Hamburg’s        Ignore the Italian restaurant downstairs and take a seat             happy dancers. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00.                                  Dual Bar D-1, Schanzenstr. 53, MSternschanze, tel. 45
     famed river. Bus N°6 to Mundsburger Brücke. Q Open               in the bar, whose charming barmen conjour up a feast of                                                                                   03 71 66, home@dualbar.de, www.dualbar.de. With its
     from 8:00. B                                                     delicious and fancy drinks from the usual array of cocktails         Christiansen’s C-3, Pinnasberg 60, MReeperbahn, tel.                 beautiful bartenders, cool decor and wide range of cocktails
                                                                      to a fine selection of whiskey. A fine place to hang out with        317 28 63, bar@christiansens.de, www.christiansens.                  - including a long list of whiskey and malts - this loungey bar
     Atlantic Bar H-2, An der Alster 72-79, MHauptbahnhof,            lots of other beautiful people. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00, Fri,            de. Situated slightly out of sight from the nearby St. Pauli         offers the best of all scenes. Get there early, secure a seat and
     tel. 288 80. Straight out of the golden age of 1930s Hollywood   Sat 19:00 - 03:00.                                                   strip, the over 180 types of rum and whiskey here will leave         have a nice conversation with friends over a large cosmopolitan
     movies the Atlantic Bar is an Art Deco masterpiece, harking                                                                           any alcohol connoisseur satisfied. Expect a nice conversation        before the bar fills to capacity. DJs play a variety of music from
     back to the days when staying in hotels was something to         Bar Rossi C-1, Max-Brauer-Allee 279, MSternschanze,                  with friendly staff (in English!) or perhaps a free massage if you   Thursday to Saturday. QOpen from 10:00, Sun from 16:00.
     look forward to rather than a necessary 21st-century chore.      tel. 43 25 46 39, w w w.bar-rossi.net. A largish                     stop by on a Monday night. End the night admiring the array
     Find immaculate barmen dressed as penguins, shuffling            Frankenstein’s monster of a box utilising the very best of           of lights at the nearby harbour. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri            Frank und Frei D-1, Schanzenstr. 93, MSternschanze, tel.
     about the place and keeping the bar nibbles well stocked.        auctioned lighting, mirror balls, sleek sofas and plenty of          20:00 - 04:00, Sat 20:00 - 05:30. Closed Sun.                        43 48 03. A bit like a classic South London Victorian boozer, this
     Staggeringly expensive, you do at least get free cabaret if      vertical drinking space, Bar Rossi has the ability to transform                                                                           place features lots of wood panelling, big ceiling fans and lots of
     you choose the right time to pop in. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,        itself from a sad and empty bar into the liveliest place in                                          Ciu’ Die Bar G-2, Ballindamm         bits and bobs stuck all over the walls. There are those who say
     Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.                                          town in under 30 minutes. As with many bars in Germany                                              14/15, MJung fernstieg,               that Hamburg is an English city, and it’s in Frank un Frei where the
                                                                      the secret here is to not arrive too early. Get here before                                         tel. 32 50 88 55, info@               two cultures meet rather nicely. Both a fine location to get utterly
                                                                      12:00 and you’ll be disappointed. Get here any later than                                           ciudiebar.de, w w w.                  sloshed on cold bottles of Flensburger or to take advantage
                                                                      01:00 and you’ll be waiting until closing time to get served.                                       ciudiebar.de. Ciu’ boasts a           of the all-you-can-eat €6.50 Sunday morning breakfast buffet.
                                                                      QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00.                                                        worthwhile scene - both of the        QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.
                                                                                                                                                                          Binnenalster and of some of
                                                                      Bedford D-2, Schulterblatt 72, MSternschanze, tel.                                                  the trendier people in Hamburg.       Gr osse Fr eiheit 36 C-3, Gr osse Fr eiheit 36,
                                                                      43 18 83 32. Located in the middle of a graffiti-splattered          A spacious set-up allows for audible conversation in between         MReeperbahn, tel. 31 77 78 11, info@grossefreiheit36.
                                                                      neighbourhood, Bedford resembles a classic German small-             stealing glances. The cocktail list comes in the form of a           de, www.grossefreiheit36.de. For all those who grew up in
                                                                      town bar commandeered by people in funny hats. Rough and             magazine and should you have the time to read it, a new              the 1980s and have yet to leave the music behind - you have
                                                                      ready, and extremely self-conscious about its image, you have        choice is likely to please. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00.                     found your home. Located on one of the most famous streets
                                                                      to be a trifle conceited to enjoy drinking here, and you need to                                                                          near the Reeperbahn, this bar has music, alcohol and people
                                                                      be extremely careful of the stairs to the toilets. It’s a bit like   Die Herren Simpel D-1, Schulterblatt 75, MSternschanze,              looking to have fun. The lively scene makes it a great place
                                                                      going for a piddle on a fishing boat. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00,           tel. 38 68 46 00, kontor@dieherrensimpel.de, www.                    to start off. The scene outside is equally as lively. QOpen
                                                                      Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.                                              dieherrensimpel.de. Quiet and gentle with a vast picture of          20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.
                                                                                                                                           flowers behind the bar, this is one of the more charming bars in
                                                                                                                                           an area filled with much in the way of empty wackiness. As well      Hans Alb er s-Eck D-3, Hans-Alb er s-Plat z 20,
                                                                                                                                           as seating at the front with big windows perfect for staring at      MReeperbahn, tel. 31 36 14, www.hans-albers-eck.
                                                                        Bar SáVánh                                                         the freaks in the street, there are areas out the back furnished     de. Hans Albers, one of Hamburg’s famed singers, has found
                                                                                                                                           with pick-and-mix chairs and tables that are ideal for serious       a home in a bar sitting, as Albers once crooned, “auf der
                                                                                                       Bar SáVánh Neumühlen                sessions with friends. The music is a nice mix of ambient and        Reeperbahn”, and reminds patrons of Hamburg’s port city
                                                                                                       11, tel. 39 80 78 80, www.          stuff you’ll probably never hear again. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,         flair. On weekends arrive early or be prepared to wait. A dance
                                                                                                       indochine.de. Not a place to        Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.                                              floor and outdoor terrace provide options. QOpen 19:00 -
                                                                                                       kick back and drink a beer in                                                                            01:00, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. EB
                                                                                                       your oldest clothes, rather         Die Welt ist Schön D-2, Neuer Pferdemarkt 4,
                                                                                                       this trendy bar is a prime          MFeldstr., tel. 18 78 88, mail@dieweltistschoen.                     Indochine Neumühlen 11, MGänsemarkt, tel. 39 80
                                                                                                       time locale for Hamburg’s           net, www.dieweltistschoen.net. The World is Beautiful                78 80, www.indochine.de. A small Asian-themed bar in
                                                                                                       hip crowd. The view of the          according to this bar - but a more appropriate name would be         the basement of the Raffles Hotel, fabulously decorated
                                                                        harbour is an added bonus to the scenery inside. Take              Our clients are beautiful. During the happy hour from 20:00-         with rattan furniture, lots of red silk, old photographs of
                                                                        advantage of the leather sofas and the great view and in-          22:00, cocktails are served for only €5. The garden on the first     Singapore and glass-topped tables filled with exotic spices.
                                                                        dulge in a variety of cocktails. Bus N°112 to Lawaetzhaus.         of three floors and the roof deck also make it a great choice        The favoured watering hole of the city’s 20-something A-list,
                                                                        QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 11:00 - 15:00 Sunday brunch                   on a nice summer night. Be pretty, be happy. QOpen 20:00 -           cocktails include life-affirming mojitios and several interesting
                                    © Hamburg Tourismus GmbH                                                                               02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. B                    sake-based drinks. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
                                                                           Milk Bar Lounge F-2, Dammtordamm 2, MDammtor,                     Top of Town F-1/2, Marseillerstr. 2, MStephansplatz,
       Casino Esplanade                                                    tel. 348 00 34, www.milkbarlounge.de. This trendy                 tel. 350 20. Ignoring the rather foolhardy attempt at proper        Clubs
                                                                           cocktail bar hosts an attractive scene after work due to its      grammar, Top of Town is just that. In height anyway. The            In the mood for dancing?
       A palatial white building                                           close proximity to the city centre. Grab a glass of wine or       Radisson’s 26th-floor drinking hole wipes the floor with other
       in the heart of Hamburg                                             something more elaborate and enjoy the men and women              bars with its view, a fact reflected in the painfully expensive     Bar Morphine D-3, Seilerstr. 16, MSt. Pauli, tel. 33
       is home to the new Spiel-                                           dressed to impress. Take a stroll through Planten und Blomen      drinks menu. But if you want to see just how beautiful              39 92 00, info@bar-morphine.de, www.bar-morphine.de.
       bank Casino Esplanade.                                              and watch the sunset or grab a gourmet ice cream cone at          Hamburg really is, you absolutely can’t top this one. QOpen         For those who plan to stroll into the Fischmarkt at 06:00 on
       Elegant classic architec-                                           the park’s entrance. Or go home. Great to go for an after-work    21:30 - 04:00. Closed Sun.                                          Sunday morning. This club does not even open its doors until
       ture mixes with enter-                                              cocktail. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00. B                                                                                                      (earliest) midnight. However, there is never a lack of people
       tainment here, and you                                                                                                                Tower Bar (Hotel Haf en Hambur g) D-E/3,                            rushing in when they do open. The décor is equally packed
       too are invited to come                                             Nullviernull (040) Methfesselstr. 65, MLutterothstr.,             Seewartenstr. 9, MLandungsbrücken, tel. 31 11 35                    (think purple and mirrors). DJs keep the music playing and the
       enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of Hamburg’s casino.                   tel. 43 28 28 43. This bar gets its name from Hamburg’s           24. This bar provides one of the best (and highest) views           people dancing. Good choice after a few more laid-back bars
       Whether you prefer Roulette, Black Jack or Poker, you’ll have       phone code. Local Eimbüttelers frequent this narrow bar           of the harbour and has become something of a sightseeing            in the area. Q Open Fri 01:00-08:00, Sat 24:00-08:00.
       plenty of chance to play your favourite game at one of 18           often to take in soccer matches. The bar itself is somehow        ritual for visitors. Local Hamburgers delight in showing
       tables. Or have a go at one of the 150 gaming machines,             Berlinesque and the people too: they are content with what        off the Elbe’s activity. Drinks are slightly overpriced and         Drafthouse D-3, Hans-Albers-Platz 15, MReeperbahn,
       operating daily from noon to 04:00. Relax with friends at the       they are doing and don’t scan the people coming through           rather froufrou, for lack of a better word. No beer here.           www.drafthouse-hh.de. The interior is a mixture of American
       bar, marvel at the sunset views from the balcony terrace,           the door. There is a style to this bar all on its own. QOpen      Expect bright colours and fruit-adorned glasses. The                souvenirs, including western memorabilia, longhorns, old
       and start off the night at the Tarantella restaurant (open          20:00 - 02:00.                                                    view at night is, however, worth a cocktail or two. QOpen           advertisements and most importantly Mr. Ed - the talking horse.
       from noon to midnight, weekends till 01:00).                                                                                          18:00 - 02:00.                                                      Live music begins at 21:00 and runs the spectrum, but focuses
                                                                           Pony Bar F-1, Allende Platz 1, MStephansplatz, tel. 428                                                                               mostly on country music and rock. Up to 600 guests can fit into
       Casino Esplanade, Stephansplatz 10, Hamburg,                        38 78 95, www.ponybar.de. Refreshingly tatty and full of ex       Turmbar F-1, Rothenbaumchaussee 2, MDammtor,                        this rodeo so be prepared to meet your neighbour. QOpen
       www.spielbank-hamburg.de.                                           students still undecided as to whether to start a revolution      tel. 44 45 67, turmbar@web.de, www.turmbar.de. This                 19:00 - 01:00, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri 19:00 - 04:00. E
                                                                           or a web design company, Pony Bar features 1970s furniture        tower-like structure does not strike one at first glance as
                                                                           that’s seen more bums than a New York soup kitchen, table         a bar - it served as a bunker during WW II. However, after          Mandalay D-2, Neuer Pferdemarkt 13, MFeldstr., tel. 43
     Jahreszeiten Grill G-2, Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14,                     football and a wallpapered DJ booth. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00,         walking up a long, wide spiral ramp that once provided shelter      21 49 22, www.mandalay.tv. For loud popular music and
     MGänsemarkt, tel. 34 94 33 12. More of a restaurant                   Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 03:00.                             during air raids, you can enjoy a drink knowing that you have       little conversation try this bar/club located in Sternschanze.
     than a bar as testified by the €23 business lunch, much of                                                                              also discovered Hamburg history. QOpen 19:00 - 01:30,               People are young and likely to dance, perhaps even with you.
     the décor in this wonderful Art Deco room is original and             Rehbar Ottenser Hauptstr. 52, MAltona, tel. 99 99                 Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00.                                             Expect little personal room on weekend nights. A good choice
     dates from 1929. As for drinking here, it doesn’t come cheap,         22 09, www.rehbar.de. A nice combination of Hamburg’s                                                                                 after a few drinks or a dull date. DJs spinning on Thu from 22:00
     but is worth every penny for the experience. A great place            down-to-earth crowd and those looking for a scene. The bar        Yoko Mono E-2, Marktstr. 41, MFeldstr., tel. 43 18                  and Fri/Sat from 23:00. Q Open Tue-Sat from 20:00.
     to start off the evening with a cocktail before moving on to          offers its own beer: Rehbier. Small meals can also be shared.     29 91, www.yokomono.de. A small bar for the city’s
     somewhere that stays open a little later. Q Open 12:00 -              Grab a table and catch up with an old friend while keeping an     underground set featuring DJs and/or live music every night,        Nouar B-2, Max-Brauer-Allee 275, MHolstenstr., tel.
     14:30, 18:00 - 23:30.                                                 eye out for something more. The area has plenty to offer if       this is just like something you’d find in East Berlin. Full of      430 89 49, bar@nouar.de, www.nouar.de. Decorated
                                                                           something more should come along. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00,            colourful bohemian types, many of who appear to have lost           with a variety of stringed lights, this is a popular late night
     Juli C-1, Schulterblatt 114, MSternschanze, tel. 43                   Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.                                           the way, there’s a pool table, strange music bellowing out of       hang-out for a young, energetic crowd. On weekend nights
     21 46 96, kontakt@dasjuli.de, www.cafebar-juli.de.                                                                                      the loudspeakers and stacks of fliers full of information about     be prepared for a line at the door, but once inside you can
     Delight in a light atmosphere full of smiling people who              Seis-Bar A-2/3, Kleine Rainstr. 11, MAltona, tel. 46              where to find more of this kind of thing in the city. QOpen         rest easily on those pressed next to you. Lively music and
     look content with life and aim to counteract the image                00 89 11, kontakt@seis-bar.de, www.seis-bar.de. If tiring         10:00 - 03:00.                                                      dance abound. QOpen 18:30 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 06:00.
     of stiff, introspective Germans. Not sold? Than stop by               of German beer and wine, stop by this bar for a caipirinha or                                                                         Closed Sun. E
     perhaps for the 1960s-inspired interior, the relatively               another tasty cocktail. The crowd is diverse and the area is      Zoe II D-2, Neuer Pferdemarkt 17, MFeldstr.. Reminiscent
     inexpensive drinks, the attractive staff or patrons. Still            full of other bars should you be less than thrilled. However,     of an old Berlin lounge, Zoe has found a home and a following
     not sold? Than you do not deser ve to enjoy this bar.                 strong drinks might be a reason to stay longer than expected.     in the Schanze district. The bar is full of worn furniture, young
     Food is also available. Q Mon - Fri from 10:00, Sat,                  QOpen 17:00 - 01:00.                                              patrons, and above all else smoke. However, should you be
     Sun from 11:00.                                                                                                                         able to survive the atmosphere, you can expect to enjoy
                                                                           Strandperle Am Schulberg, tel. 880 11 12. Where                   cheap local beer and an intimate conversation with your
     La Paloma D-3, Friedrichstr. 11, MReeperbahn, tel.                    there is a view, there is a bar. And Hamburg locals, as well      friends and perhaps with those on the couch next to you.
     31 45 12. Located in the heart of the Reeperbahn area, this           as tourists, will take advantage of this fact, weather allowing   QOpen 20:00 - 04:00.
     bar is rarely without a line. Be prepared to wait for a while on      (though weather is debatable). Order a coffee or beer and
     weekends especially. However, an early arrival will allow you to
     enjoy the suggestive art and the colourful and mixed patrons
                                                                           relax. No scene to evaluate or crowd to impress, just a great
                                                                           view of the Elbe and some time to appreciate it. Bus N°36 to      Beer gardens
     that will file in later in the evening. Two beers on tap and plenty   Liebermannstrasse. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. B                         Hadley’s Beim Schlump 84a, MSchlump, tel. 450 50
     of cocktails will keep you happy. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu,                                                                             75, hadleys@hadleys.de, www.hadleys.de. A perfect
     Fri 19:00 - 02:00, Sat 19:00 - 04:00.                                 Summum Bonum D-2, Neuer Pferdemarkt 17, MFeldstr..                place to spend your Saturday afternoon. Pretend you are in
                                                                           A superb open plan bar with huge flaking walls, over two dozen    a Biergarten in the south of Germany… or at least outside
     Le Ciel H-2, An der Alster 52-56, MHauptbahnhof,                      large sofas of varying designs to sit on, a clientele made up     drinking beer. They serve drinks and small meals, but best of
     tel. 21 00 10 70, restaurantleciel@lemeridien.com,                    of local characters, lawyers, students and other suspicious       all is the terrace. Make sure to take advantage of the summer
     www.leciel.de. Industrial chic on the ninth floor of the              characters, and delightful student barmaids. Always packed,       weather. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. B
     Le Royal Meridien hotel featuring lashings of modern art,             booze is of the bottled beer or cocktail variety, or there’s a
     a bizarre mix of frumpy hotel guests and trendy locals,
     classic 90s disco hits and more cocktails than Molotov
                                                                           limited range of wine and some very good coffee. A great
                                                                           atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.          Casinos
     on a bad day. Take away the view and you’re not left with                                                                               Casino Esplanade F-2, Stephansplatz 10, tel. 334 73
     much, so thank heavens it’s such a good one. Q Open                   The Academy D-3, Hans-Albers-Platz 15, MReeperbahn.               30, www.spielbank-hamburg.de. A palatial white building
     06:30 - 02:00.                                                        Becks, Erdinger, Kilkenny, Guinness, Murphy’s red or stout        in the heart of Hamburg houses this new casino. Roulette,
                                                                           pour from the taps here and an assortment of whiskeys             Black Jack or Poker can be played at 18 tables, and there
     Marktstube E-2, Marktstr. 119, MFeldstr., tel. 43                     are also available. Expect live music and mixed company at        are 150 gaming machines, operating daily from noon. You
     09 90 82. This bar is almost as cool as the area around               this lively bar - particularly on the nights that the Rockhouse   can start off the night at the Tarantella restaurant (open from
     it. Patrons are hip without trying to be - if that is possible.       Brothers perform. Most bands cover an array of oldies but         noon to midnight, weekends till 01:00), relax at the bar, and
     Atmosphere is relaxing, as is the leather-upholstered                 goldies. Arrive early to secure a seat. Opens at 14:00 for the    marvel at the sunset views from the balcony terrace. Dress
     furniture. Begin the evening with a drink at this local favourite.    World Cup. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri,           up and bring ID. Q Open 15:00 - 04:00, gaming machines
     QOpen 20:00 - 02:00.                                                  Sat 19:00 - 03:00. E                                              from 12:00. Admission €2.                                                                                                       Sco
       r4rules! @ Riff                                                     enjoyable evening. Space is limited, but don’t fret if you
                                                                           arrive late; standing somehow adds to the intimacy of the             Main sights                                                           Tourist information
                                                                           experience. The website lists the full program. QOpen                 Fernsehturm E-1, Lagerstraße 2-8, MSternschanze.
                                    Kattjahren 1a, Marktplatz,             20:30 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. E                                Built between 1965 and 1968 from reinforced concrete and              Tourist Information Office H-2/3, Hauptbahnhof,
                                    Hambur g Volksdor f (U1                                                                                      opened on May 1, 1968, the 279.2 metre, 43,000 tonne                  MHauptbahnhof, tel. 30 05 13 00, www.hamburg-
                                    U-Bahn), www.r4rules.de.                                                                                                                                                           tourism.de. Hamburg’s excellent tourist information
                                    Every Thursday the r4rules!            Pubs                                                                  Fernsehturm (also known as the Heinrich-Hertz-Turm after
                                                                                                                                                 Heinrich Rudolf Hertz, the Hamburg-born physicist and                 offices can be found in the main station (east exit, Kirch-
                                    Club at Riff offers an alternative     London Pub D-3, Hans-Albers-Platz 18, MReeperbahn,                    discoverer of electromagnetic waves). Once the proud home             enallee) as well as at the airport (open 06:00-23:00) and
                                    to mainstream nightlife options        tel. 31 64 57, www.london-pub.de. The music can vary                  of a lofty observation platform and restaurant the tower is           in the city centre at St. Pauli Landungsbrücken (between
                                    in town, with concerts and club        from heavy metal to The Beatles at this small British pub             currently closed to visitors. QOpen 10.00 - 23.00.                    bridges 4 and 5, open 08:00-19:00; Mon, Wed, Sun until
       events for all styles and cultures. The programme is                situated directly on the Reeperbahn. The interior is dark,                                                                                  18.00) and at Dammtor station (open 08:00-19:45, Sat
       usually a mix of good music: rock, reggae, elektro, punk,           and on weekends try to arrive early to avoid a line. During           Rathaus G-3, Rathausmarkt 1, MRathaus, tel. 31                        10:00-16:00, Sun closed). They deal with general en-
       funk... as long as it’s authentic and fun. Add some artists,        the earlier hours a seat is easy to secure and a conversation         24 70, www.rathaus.hamburg.de. Currently the city’s                   quiries as well as hotel reservations, tickets for events,
       performers and other clubs and you have r4rules!                    enjoyable... unless the heavy metal blasts. There is a large          sixth town hall, Hamburg’s newest seat of government took             package tours, hand out maps and useful brochures, and
                                                                           screen TV which will air the World Cup. And as a bonus, the           eleven years to build and was completed in 1897. With a               sell the Hamburg Card. You can also call - the phone is
                                                                           bathrooms were surprisingly clean. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00,               neo-Renaissance exterior and an interior of mixed styles,             manned from 09:00-19:00, Sun closed. QOpen 08:00
     White Lounge Barmbeker Str. 2, MBorgweg, tel.                         Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00.                                          including a number of fountains built to celebrate the health         - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
     40185919, info@sushi-for-friends.de, www.hamburg-                                                                                           Hamburg’s citizens. Much of the interior is open to the public,
     white-lounge.de. They were not joking when they named                 Molly Malone D-3, Hans-Albers-Platz 15, MReeperbahn,                  but there’s generally usually something closed off due to an
     this designer bar. Apart from some green accents, the                 tel. 31 79 15 63. Enjoy a beer or cocktail at this Irish pub. A       official function. To get the most out a visit, a guided tour is    Bismarckdenkmal E-3, MSt. Pauli. Test your knowledge
     lighting and the drinks and food, everything here is devoid of        range of talented (and less talented) musicians play a mixture        highly recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.                            of German history with a visit to the Bismarck memorial,
     colour - leaving it up to you and your friends to paint the night     of rock and folk music. Even those that cannot sing particularly                                                                          located in the Alter Elbpark overlooking the harbour. The
     the way you like it. The restaurant section has a kaiten belt         well are entertaining though. The mood is light and in between        Speicherstadt G-3, MMeßberg. The world’s biggest                    34-meter granite statue was built between 1903 and
     rolling fresh sushi and tapas around the diners, while there are      sets a lively conversation is possible. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00,          warehouse complex is an awesome hotchpotch of waterways,            1906 and honours the late German Chancellor, Otto von
     several other funky spaces for lounging with a drink - including      Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. E                          cobbled streets and red brick Hanseactic buildings dating           Bismarck.
     a terrace with views over the Osterbek canal. QOpen 12:00                                                                                   from 1885 to 1927. Originally built between 1885 and 1888
     - 01:00, Sat 16:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.                        Murphy’s D-3, Friedrichstr. 24, MReeperbahn. Feel as if               at the cost of 20,000 people’s homes, as well as housing            Blankenese . You may have already heard that Hamburg
                                                                           you have been transported back to the Emerald Isle, except            some of the best museums in the city including its very own         has the largest number of millionaires in any city in Germany.
     Jazz clubs                                                            for the fact that you are smack in the centre of St. Pauli. English
                                                                           is not a foreign language in this bar. Frequented by tourists
                                                                                                                                                 Speicherstadt Museum, Speicherstadt (“Warehouse City”)
                                                                                                                                                 is currently undergoing massive development work and is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Now see where they live. Take a ride along the Elbe north into
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     the area called Blankenese and admire the homes and the
     Birdland Gärtnerstr. 122, MHoheluftbrücke, tel. 40                    and expats, this bar has live music and a wide selection of           fast becoming the number one trendy place to be, with lots          view from the river’s banks. Restaurants and cafes line the
     52 77, contact@jazzclub-birdland.de, www.jazzclub-                    beers. Bartenders are friendly and frequently involved in the         of new six-figure apartments and swanky bars. You can take          area so there is no need to go hungry.
     birdland.de. The small sign announcing Birdland is easy               on-going scene. One even took to the microphone when we               a boat tour around the complex.
     to miss. Once inside, however, the talented musicians and             visited. No cover charge. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu 19:00                                                                                  Deichstraße, MRödingsmarkt. Deichstraße, the old
     relaxed atmosphere predominate and make for a thoroughly              - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. E
                                                                                                                                                 Places of interest                                                  merchant street displays the varying styles of old Hamburg
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     architecture. Some residences date back to the eighteenth
                                                                                                                                                 Alsterarkaden F / G-3, An der Kleinen Alster,                       century. Surprisingly, the street has maintained its quaint
                                                                                                                                                 MJungfernstieg. After the great fire of Hamburg in 1842 the         character over the centuries. A few new restaurants have
                                                                         Nice to see you at CIU'!                                                architect Alexis de Chateauneuf (1799 - 1853) designed and
                                                                                                                                                 built this charming little riverside arcade, inspired by the very
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     popped to add a culinary twist to the old area.
                                                                                                                                                 best of Venetian architecture. The leading example of what          Feuerschiff Vorsetzen, MBaumwall, tel. 36 25 53,
                                                                                                                                                 became known as post-fire architecture, the arcade stands           www.das-feuerschiff.de. This old English fireship once
                                                                                                                                                 exactly as it did when it was built, and features both shops and    served as a floating lighthouse. It now serves its patrons as
                                                                                                                                                 outdoor cafés that offer a great opportunity to sit and bask        a pub, restaurant and hotel. The red ship has become part of
                                                                                                                                                 with the sight of the Rathaus just over the water.                  the harbour’s scenery and is a great tourist stop.
                                                                                                                                                 Alter Elbtunnel D-4, MLandungsbrücken. Ever wonder                  HafenCity G-3, Messberg, info@HafenCity.com,
                                                                                                                                                 how people travel back and forth across the harbour? Four large     www.hafencity.com. Visit one of Europe’s largest urban
                                                                                                                                                 elevators inside the dome-shaped building at Landungsbrücken        development plans. The southern side of the city centre
                                                                                                                                                 travel 24 meters below the Elbe to ferry people and cars back       is currently undergoing a transformation of sor ts. Old
                                                                                                                                                 and forth. The tunnel was created in 1911 and still serves its      warehouses are being renovated as office buildings to provide
                                                                                                                                                 original purpose. Free for pedestrians. Q Open 24hrs, Mon-Fri       a new location for Hamburg’s expanding economy. A cruise
                                                                                                                                                 05:30-20:00, Sat 05:30-16:00 for cars.                              port has also been established.
                                                                                                                                                 Außenalster H-1, MDammtor. Hamburg’s Außenalster                    Hambur ger Haf en D/E-4, Landungsbrücken,
                                                                                                                                                 announced its presence as early as the thirteenth century           MLandungsbrücken. Hamburg is known as one of the
                                                                                                                                                 and has long become one of the defining sights of the               largest harbours in Europe, but its size does not dwarf its
        Open daily from 16:00
                                                                                                                                                 city. There is even a “Alsterwasser” drink named after it.          beauty. Stop by during the day and take a harbour tour or later
        tel. 040-32 52 60 60
                                                                                                                                                 On a nice day the river (note that it is not a lake) is full of     in the evening to watch the docks and ships light up the sky.
        Ballindamm 14-15
www.ciudiebar.de
                                                                                                                                                 sailboats, canoes and paddleboats. The parks surrounding            Over 800 years old, the Hafen still creates a buzz in Hamburg,
                                                                                                                                                 it provide all visitors with a beautiful view of the water from     especially when the Queen Mary II sails into town.
                                                                                                                                                 land. Take advantage of a guided tour of the river and its
                                                                                                                                                 connecting canals.                                                  Hans Hummel Figures . Throughout the city centre you
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     will notice statutes of men carrying buckets. They are all
                                                                                                                                                 Binnenalster G-2, MJungfernstieg. The smaller of                    varying artists’ renditions of Hans Hummel - Hamburg’s famed
                                                                                                                                                 Hamburg’s two Alsters, this body of water forms the centre          water carrier. Hans Hummel was actually named Johann
                                                                                                                                                 of the inner city. Famed hotels, businesses, and restaurants        Wilhelm Bentz and lived in Hamburg from 1787 until 1854.
                                                                                                                                                 run along the water’s edge. The Kennedy and Lombard                 The children of the city would scream „Hummel, Hummel“
                                                                                                                                                 bridges separate the Inner from the Outer Alster and provide        when they saw him and he would retort „Mors, Mors.“ It has
                                                                                                                                                 a great view of both.                                               since become a famous dialogue in Hamburg.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Einzel
       the dockland warehouse district in the former free-port)          packed with recreations of ordinary Afghan life and culture as                                                                                                        Offering free use of public
       where typical goods and tools collected from traditional          well as some exquisite examples of silverware and musical                                                                                                             transport, free or reduced      Datum | Date
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  KZ-Gedenkstätte Neuengamme , tel. 428 13
       warehouse companies and business premises of the                  instruments. There’s a traditional tea room here too, taking                                                                                                          admission to museums Einzel | Single            /3
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  10, w w w.k z-gedenkstaette-neuengamme.de. The
       warehouse district are exhibited. Further topics are              the place of the usual sterile museum café. QOpen 10:00                                                                                                               and many other reductions, it can help save money while                                                            concentration camp Neuengamme was created by the Nazis
       coffee- and tea-trading. The engaging and interactive             - 17:00. Admission €3/2,50. Children 1,50.                                                                                                                            enjoying all that Hamburg has to offer to the full.                                                                in 1938 as a work camp. An exhibit and memorial have since
       exhibition emphasises the skills and ingenuity of the                                                                                                                                                                                   The Hamburg CARD includes unlimited travel on HVV                                                                  been erected to remind us of the atrocities of the Second World
       work of warehousemen.                                             BallinStadt Veddeler Bogen 2, MVeddel, tel. 31 97 91                                                                                                                  public transportation in the Greater Hamburg Area,                                                                 War and those who perished. Detailed directions can be found
       The Museum offers expert guided tours in English, Ger-            60, www.ballinstadt.de. At the opposite end of New York’s Ellis                                                                                                       10% discount on souvenir articles at the Central Station                                                           on the website or by calling. The exhibit is also in English and
       man, Spanish and French.                                          Island, the new BallinStadt ‘emigration city’ museum focuses on                                                                                                       Tourist Information office, 10% discount from shopping                                                             guided group tours in English can also be arranged. QOpen
                                                                         the mass emigration from Europe to the New World, when over 5                                                                                                         partners and 20% discount in 12 restaurants (on meals                                                              09:30 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
       Speicherstadtmuseum, St. Annenufer 2, tel. 32                     million people left from Hamburg harbour. Texts, films, interactive                                                                                                   and first drink, present the Hamburg CARD before order-
       11 91, www.speicherstadtmuseum.de                                 displays and original artefacts give insight in the passengers’                                                                                                       ing). You’ll also pay reduced prices for the Jasper airport                                                        Miniatur Wunderland F-4, Kehrwieder 2, MMeßberg,
       Adult 3,00 € / Concessions 1,90 €QOpen 1 April to 31              circumstances and the facilities provided by the Hapag shipping                                                                                                       shuttle bus, city sightseeing tours, walking tours, harbour                                                        tel. 300 68 00, www.miniatur-wunderland.de. There’s
       October: Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat, Sun and holidays               company. The museum also has the world’s most complete                                                                                                                and Alster cruises, church towers, as well as discounts at                                                         nothing miniature about the queues waiting to get into this place.
       10:00-18:00. 1 November to 31 March: Tue-Sundays                  emigration archive, with all departures between 1850 and 1934.                                                                                                        some 110 places of interest, such as the city hall, plan-                                                          If you can be bothered to hang around, then expect the largest
       10:00-17:00.                                                      QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €9.80.         Hamburg CARD
                                                                                                                       3-Tage-Karte | 3-Day-Ticket
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               etarium, zoo, wax museum, Miniature Train Wonderland,                                                              H0 model railway layout in the world and lots of other models.
                                                                                                                                                          Einzel
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Hamburg Dungeon. There’s a minimum reduction of 30%
                                                                                                                       Datum | Date
Einzel | Single /3
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  The shop’s fun too, but only if you’re seven or a little bit sad.
                                                                         Bucerius Kunst Forum G-3, Rathausmarkt 2,                                                                                                                             on standard prices in over 20 museums and at least 15%                                                             QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Tue 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,
     Chilehaus, MMessberg. Every tour of Hamburg will bring              MRathaus, tel. 360 99 60, info@buceriuskunstforum.                                                                                                                    off last minute tickets at 16 theatres.                                                                            Sun 08:30 - 20:00. Admission €10/7, children €5.                                          Hamburg CARD
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            3-Tage-Karte | 3-Day-Ticket
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Einzel
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               A day ticket (one adult plus up to three children) costs
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Datum | Date
Einzel | Single /3
     you past this building. It was designed by the architect Fritz      de, www.buceriuskunstforum.de. Founded by the Ebelin
     Höger between the years 1922 and 1924. Over 4,8 million             and Gerd Bucerius Zeit Foundation in 2002, the Bucerius                                                                                                               €8, and is valid on the day indicated and from 18.00 of                                                            Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe H-3, Steintorplatz,
     bricks went into its construction. The structure served as a        Kunst Forum has already hosted some of the world’s premiere                                                                                                           the previous day (with the exception of tickets purchased                                                          MHauptbahnhof, tel. 42 81 34 27 32, service@mkg-
     sign of growth after World War I and miraculously survived          art. Exhibits typically run for a three-month span and feature                                                                                                        at HVV tickets machines and on buses). The three-day                                                               hamburg.de, www.mkg-hamburg.de. Just keep your eye
     World War II to serve as a sign of survival.                        in-depth portrayals of artists’ work or different time periods.                                                                                                       ticket costs €18 and the five-day ticket €33; these                                                                out for a beautiful yellow building located outside the main
                                                                         Exhibits and brochures are in English and German. QOpen                                                                                                               are valid on the day of first use plus the following 2 or                                                          train station. It houses one of Europe’s renowned exhibits of
     Landungsbrücken D/E-4, MLandungsbrücken.                            11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Admission €5.                                                                         Hamburg CARD
                                                                                                                                                                                                 3-Tage-Karte | 3-Day-Ticket
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               4 days. The excellent-value group ticket is valid for up                                                           applied arts. Design, graphics and photography constitute
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Einzel
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               to 5 persons of any age and costs €11.80 for one day,
                                                                                                                                                                                                 Datum | Date
Einzel | Single /3
     Hamburg’s famed pier runs parallel to the Elbe along a                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       the core of this museum’s exhibits. Unfortunately, texts are
     700-meter stretch. It was initially erected in 1839 but saw         Cap San Diego E-4, Überseebrücke, MLandungsbrücken,                                                                                                                   €29.80 for three days and €51 for five days.                                                                       only in German. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00.
     many renovations due to fire and war. Today restaurants,            tel. 36 42 09, info@capsandiego.de, www.capsandiego.                                                                                                                  The Hamburg CARD is available at all Hamburg Tourist                                                               Closed Mon. Admission €8.      Hamburg CARD
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     souvenir shops and kiosks line the pier. You can also pick up       de. Nestled into the Hamburg harbour is the Cap San Diego,
     city bus tours and harbour tours here.                              one of the last classic cargo ships. It has come to be known as                                                                                                       in various hotels as well as in youth hostels, at the Ham-
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     bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined due to its               smuggling and counterfeiting as well as offering an insight into                                                                                                                                                                                                                           and including lavish bouquets of flowers, bloody roasts
     extensive canal system. The Trost Bridge symbolizes the             the history of German border control. It sounds terrible, but                                                                                                       Hamburgmuseum E-3, Holstenwall 24, MSt. Pauli,                                                                         of venison, pewter goblets and skulls. Highlights of the
     oldest connection between the Episcopal Old City and the            this really is a great museum. Highly recommended. QOpen                                                                                                            tel. 42 81 32 23 80, info@hamburgmuseum.de, www.                                                                       show are paintings by Auguste Renoir, Claude Monet,
     earl-led New City. Originally built in wood in the thirteenth       10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Free.                                                                                                                                    hamburgmuseum.de. An impressi ve building wi th a                                                                      Max Beckmann and Georges Braque, and contemporary
     century, it was rebuilt in 1881 to last.                                                                                                                                                                                                lighthouse-like tower perched on the roof is home to the                                                               sculptures and installations by Mona Hatoum, Thomas
                                                                         Hamburg Dungeon F-4, Kehrwieder 2, MMeßberg,                                                                                                                        Museum for Hamburg History. Focusing on the development                                                                Schütte, Jeff Wall, Jörg Sasse, Thomas Demand and
                                                                         tel. 30 05 15 55, www.thedungeons.com. Part of the                                                                                                                  of the city and its harbour, everyday life and culture, it has a                                                       James Hopkins.
                                                                         ever-growing global Dungeon franchise, if you’ve ever visited                                                                                                       great collection of artefacts, scale models, house interiors
                                                                         one of the other places you’ll know exactly what this place is                                                                                                      and even the complete facade of the 1605 St. Petrichurch,                                                              Hamburger Kunsthalle , Glockengießerwall,
               www.inyourpocket.com                                      about. Why anyone would want to queue for three hours and
                                                                         pay €15 only to be scared or bored is a mystery but there you
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             all illustrating the spectacular rise of Hamburg. Regular
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             special exhibitions are held on topics related to the city.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    tel. 428 13 12 00, www.hamburger-kunsthalle.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    de.QOpen 10:00-18:00, Thu 10:00-21:00, Mon closed.
                                                                         go. Check the website for more information. QOpen 10:00 -                                                                                                           QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.                                                                    Admission €6/4, more for special exhibitions.                            Hamburg CARD
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      mass accommodation for the many thousands of people                                                                                                                                                                                          on Sunday at 10:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
      who were arriving in Hamburg at the turn of the 20th
      century to wait for the departure of their ships. For over                         Museum für Völkerkunde F-1, Rothenbaumchaussee
      5 million emigrants who left Europe between 1850 and                               64, M Haller str, tel. 018 05 30 88 88, w w w.
      1939 Hamburg was the gateway to the world. BallinStadt is                          voelkerkundemuseum.com. The Museum for Ethnography was
      dedicated to them. In exact replicas of three of BallinStadt’s                     founded in 1879 and has become one of the largest of its kind in
      buildings with living and sleeping quarters visitors can relive                    Europe. It holds over 350,000 objects, and documents the art and
      every stage of emigration - from departure, the crossing,                          cultural history of humans. The museum shop and restaurant offer
      the arrival in New York and the emigrants’ final home. The                         pleasant interruptions during your visit. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
      outstanding “edutainment” exhibition contains original                             Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10.
      documents and artefacts as well as numerous interactive
      exhibits that enable visitors to immerse themselves in                             Museumshafen Oevelgönne Anleger Neumühlen,
      history and experience the world as it was in the days of                          tel. 419 127 61, www.museumshafen-oevelgoenne.de.
      the emigrants. A particular highlight of the exhibition are
      the passenger lists from 1850 to 1934. It is the largest
                                                                                         When a ship has run its course, there are few more desirable
                                                                                         places to retire than in this harbour. They call this museum a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               ȼ¹  ˵ Ì ËÃÆ¿Ç
      collection of passenger lists from emigrant ships in the                           harbour for old-timer ships. About twenty ships of all shapes,
      world and therefore a unique genealogical source available                         sizes and nationalities have been renovated and now reside
      at the BallinStadt family research centre.                                         in the museum’s harbour.
      BallinStadt, Veddeler Bogen 2, 040-319 79 1616,
      open daily from 10am – 6pm. By ferry boat: St. Pauli                                                               Panoptikum D-3,
      Landungsbrücken, jetty 10 every two hours from 10am-                                                               Spielbudenplatz 3, MSt.
      6pm. By subway: S3/S31 Veddel.         Hamburg CARD
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                                                                                                                         panoptikum.de. The
                                                                                                                         Panoptikum is th e old est
                                                                                                                         exhibition of wax figures in
                                                                                                                         Germany. Th e elab oratel y
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Germany‘s oldest waxworks exhibition
                                                                                                                         decorated wax images of over
                                                                                         120 personalities from the world of culture, history and
                                                                                         entertainment have been admired by visitors for over 125
                                                                                         years. In addition to the images of present-day celebrities
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Spielbudenplatz 3 Hamburg St. Pauli
                                                                                         you will find exhibits that are over 100 years old. QOpen
                                                                                         11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.                            Tel: 040/310317                                          Fax: 040/512963               www.panoptikum.de
                                                                                         Admission €5, children €3.   Hamburg CARD
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                                                                                                                                                                      an excellent appetiser to the show to come.
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                                                                     20th-century reconstructions after a fire in 1906 and again                                    stop by the university Flohmarkt for some older Hamburg
                                                                     from the inevitable bombing during WWII. Dedicated to the                                      memorabilia. The items range from used paperback novels                                         Harbour tours D/E-4, MLandungsbrücken. Pick
                                                                     archangel Michael, whose bronze figure guards the entrance,                                    to hand-knit gloves and to what appears to be antiques. If                                      up a Hafenrundfahrt from one of the many vendors at
                                                                     the inside is fairly plain, with white and gold embellishments                                 you take the time to look through some of the junk you might                                    Landungsbrücken; departures are every 30 minutes. The
                                                                     that give the interior an almost theatrical feel. The spire can be                             find something particular to Hamburg or to Germany that is                                      tours will provide you with an overview of the goings-on in the
                                                                     climbed and is worth the trip, and the church is also a popular                                worth taking home. Q Open Sat 08:00-16:00.                                                      harbour, an inside look at the Speicherstadt area and a brief
                                                                     concert venue, boasting its own internationally renowned choir.                                                                                                                                tutorial in container ships. See also where the Queen Mary II
                                                                     QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Spire €3, children €2.        Hamburg CARD
                                                                                                                                                                    Weekly markets , w w w.hambur g-maga zin.de/                                                    docks when she visits Hamburg. Ask for an English tourguide.
           Do you want to gain an
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                                                                     steeple which affords by far the best view of the city. The church
                                                                     has a large modern organ, and free concerts are given every                                    Ohlsdorf Cemetery, MOhlsdorf. This cemetery is the
      Dialogue in the dark                                           Wednesday at 17:00. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Wed 10:00 -                                           largest in Europe and second in the world after Chicago’s.
                                                                     19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.                                                   The cemetery was designed as a park with 25,000 trees
      Dialogue in the Dark                                                                                                                                          and many other plants that make for a spectacular sight in
      Dialogue in the Dark is located in
      a historical building in Hamburg’s                             Markets                                                                                        spring. The graves are old and artistic and add to the park’s
                                                                                                                                                                    overall beauty. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
      Speicherstadt (warehouse district).                            Fish Market C-4, Große Elbstr. 137, MLandungsbrücken.
      It offers the unique opportunity to                            One cannot visit Hamburg without making a stop at the famed                                    Planten un Blomen F-1, St. Petersburgerstr. 28,
      experience an exhibition in entirely                           Fischmarkt which began in 1703 and is one of Hamburg’s                                         MStephansplatz, tel. 23 21 50, www.plantenunblomen.
      dark rooms through which you are                               beloved traditions. While many aim to be there at the market’s                                 hamburg.de. Taking its name from the old Hamburg dialect
      led by visually impaired guides. On                            opening straight from a night on the Reeperbahn, many also                                     for plants and flowers this superb green paradise features a
      your way through a park, a city, in                            stroll in after a good night’s sleep. There is music and food                                  huge variety of trees, plants and flowers as well as a charming
      the bar or during a boat trip those                            in the large hall, and stands offering fish, fruit and vegetables,                             Japanese garden. Massively popular during the summer, the
      senses which are usually neglect-                              cheese, flowers and plenty of Hamburg souvenirs. QOpen                                         park puts on events such as a daily water, music and light
      ed are sharpened. Open Tue-Fri                                 05:00 - 09:30.                                                                                 show at 22:00 (also at 14:00, 16:00 and 18:00, but without
      09:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00, Mon closed. Please                                                                                                          the lights). Also find an adventure playground to kid the
      call tel. 0700 44 33 2000 to make a booking.                                                                                                                  children amused. Recommended. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
                                    Dinner in the Dark – Test                                                                                                       Stadtpark, MBorgweg. Hamburg’s summers are best
                                    your taste buds                                                                                                                 enjoyed outdoors, and where better to play frisbee, bask
                                    Enjoy a champagne reception                                                                                                     in the sun or go for a stroll then the city park. You can rent
                                    in our lobby and a seasonal                                                                                                     paddleboats or canoes on the lake, enjoy one of the outdoor
                                    four course set menu in com-                                                                                                    cafés and beer gardens or head over to the playground.
                                    plete darkness. Sharpen your
                                    senses and test your table                                                                                                      Tierpark Hagenbeck (Zoo) Lokstedter Grenzstr. 2,
      manners. The price of €55 per person includes the recep-                                                                                                      MHagenbecks Tierpark, www.hagenbeck.de. If your
      tion, a short guided tour through one room of our exhibition                                                                                                  children need a break from old churches and other historic
      and the set menu with table water. Please book in advance                                                                                                     landmarks (or if you do) the zoo offers an enjoyable alternative.
      at tel. 0700 44 33 2000.                                                                                                                                      With over 2500 different animals, including elephants, apes and
                                                                                                                                                                    giraffes, you will be entertained for hours. There is also a small
      Dialogue in the Dark, Alter Wandrahm 4, 20457                                                                                                                 petting zoo for children. Q Open: March to June: daily 09:00-
      Hamburg, tel. 0700 44 33 2000, info@dialog-im-                                                                                                                18:00, July to August: daily 09:00-19:00, Sept. to Oct.: daily
      dunkeln.de.                                                                                                                                                   09:00-18:00, Nov. to Feb.: daily 09:00-16:30, Christmas Eve and
                                                                                                       © Hamburg Tourismus GmbH                                     New Years Eve: 09:00-13:00 Admission €15/10.        Hamburg CARD
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     Here you’ll find plenty of shopping therapy at the chic little      tunnel to the shipyard island Steinwerder and the museum            became an important link between cities on the Baltic coast
     boutiques, shiny shopping malls and superlative department          ships moored alongside. Then head towards the St. Michaelis         and those along the North Sea. Trading expanded to include               Rickmer Rickmers
     stores. Finish the day off at the splendid Hamburg Town             church for the marvellous views of Hamburg and the harbour          Scandinavia, Bruges, London and Amsterdam. At that time,                 The elegant Rickmer Rickmers three-master museum
     Hall which dominates the city centre with its impressive            from the tower. In the evening, choose for a meal outside           trade ships were guarded from pirates, (like the infamous                ship, moored at the Landungsbrücken, is one of the
     architecture.                                                       of the city centre, perhaps in Blankenese, the refined Elbe         Klaus Störtebecker) by convoy fleets supplied by the city.               last cargo sailing ships. Made with steel in 1896, the
                                                                         neighbourhood which you can reach by HVV harbour ferry or           The League proved very successful and Hamburg quickly                    97m-long ship used 24 sails and was used for trips
     Hamburg all water                                                   by bus. Admire the sunset on Elbe Beach.                            grew to 16000 residents in 1450. Trade patterns shifted as               to East Asia and in Europe before finally saved from
     A day fit for water lovers. Start off with the long harbour tour,                                                                       the Baltic trade became less important, and the discovery of             being scrapped in 1974. Visitors can tour the ships
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      holds and crew rooms and learn more about life on
     followed by a walk through the Speicherstadt if the tide is too
     high for the sightseeing boats to sail through. Then pay visit      Three-day programme                                                 the Americas lead to new products and trading routes. The
                                                                                                                                             18th century saw the start of trade with America. Hamburg’s              the high seas.
     to the museum ships moored nearby. The Alster steamer               First day – Start off with the Alster steamer tour, visiting        trading fleet went from 150 ships in 1788 to 280 in 1799, and            Landungsbrücken, Ponton 1a, www.rickmer-rick-
     tour is next, followed by some land-based shopping leisure          Hamburg’s Town Hall afterwards. After lunch, stroll over to         steamships were introduced from 1816, greatly increasing                 mers.info. Admission €3/2. Open 10:00-18:00.                             Hamburg CARD
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     in the city centre.                                                 Planten un Blomen, the famous park which includes the               the ships’ reliability and speed.
                                                                         botanical garden, with a greenhouse and the largest Japanese        The harbour was expanded and modernised in the late 1800s,
                                                                         garden in Europe, a silent but impressive attraction. Have          when new docks further away from the city centre were made.
                                                                         dinner at one of central Hamburg’s restaurants.                     At the same time, the famous city-centre Speicherstadt
                                                                         Second day - Hop on a barge at Landungsbrücken for the              warehouses were built, a massive undertaking resulting in the
                                                                         long harbour tour, followed by a walk through the old Elbe          world’s largest single warehouse complex, even today.
                                                                         tunnel to the shipyard island Steinwerder and the museum            Hamburg joined in Bismarck’s drive for German unity, leaving
                                                                         ships moored alongside. Then head towards the St. Michaelis         just the harbour area as a customs enclave for another 114
                                                                         church for the marvellous views of Hamburg and the harbour          years. The city kept modernising with new jetties at St. Pauli
                                                                         from the tower. In the evening, choose for a meal outside           and the 1911 Elbe Tunnel, and by 1913 Hamburg had a million
                                                                         of the city centre, perhaps in Blankenese, the refined Elbe         inhabitants and was the third largest harbour after London
                                                                         neighbourhood which you can reach by HVV harbour ferry or           and New York. In the Second World War 80% of the harbour
                                                                         by bus. Admire the sunset on Elbe Beach.                            facilities were destroyed, but rapid reconstruction ensured
                                                                         Third day – Get to know the city better on a red double-            the harbour was back on track by 1955. Modernisation was
                                                                         decker bus city tour or the Hamburg Hummeltrain. Interrupt          the keyword, and investments in container facilities paid off
                                                                         your tour in the Speicherstadt district and explore the             handsomely. The HafenCity urban planning project is the latest
                                                                         impressive historical area, perhaps visiting a museum here,         project to transform the harbour city; it is set to transform 160
                                                                         or getting back on the bus to visit one of the museums on           hectares between Kehrwiederspitze and the Elbe bridges, and
                                                                         Hamburg’s museum row. In the afternoon take a bus or metro          plans include apartments, offices, recreational facilities and
                                                                         to Tierpark Hagenbeck zoo, which has 2,500 animals living           a new cruise liner terminal. For more information about the
                                                                         in natural open enclosures.                                         harbour, see www.hafen-hamburg.de.                                                                                                          H.-J. Hettchen
     Almost all shops (including grocery stores) are closed on                                                                          Kenvelo H-3, Spitalerstr. 4, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 52               Mercado A-3, Ottenser Hauptstr., MAltona, tel. 398
     Sundays, with the exception of some tourist shops. On               Airport shopping                                               65 5 - 0. Another favourite for young clothing shoppers.          68 40. Germany’s version of a mall, the Mercado provides
     Saturdays many small boutiques will close mid-afternoon.                                                                           Prices are reasonable and choices are varied and hip. Gives       one-stop shopping at its best. The center offers over 60
     All major shopping centres are open until 20:00 from                Hamburg airport, just 8,5km from central Hamburg, is           the younger crowd an alternative to H&M. QOpen 10:00 -            stores from food to flowers to clothes to books. QOpen
     Monday to Saturday. Note that credit cards are not widely           a departure point for many travellers, and the varied          22:00. Closed Sun.                                                10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
     accepted; there’s always an ATMs nearby however.                    shopping there is good reason head out a little earlier        Massimo Dutti H-3, Mönckebergstr. 7, MMönck-                      Rathaus Passage/ Markt G-3, Rathaus Markt,
     Marktstrasse (U-Bahn to Feldstrasse) is Hamburg’s own               before your flight. The range of shops includes everything     ebergstr., tel. 32 00 49 99. Menswear on the ground               MJungfernstieg, tel. 30 62 02 96. Here you can find
     Penny Lane. The street offers a wide variety of second-             from traveller’s gear, electronics and phones, sweets,         floor and something for the ladies up the stairs. Everything      souvenirs, typical street food and other reminders of your
     hand and boutique shops ranging from cheap to pricey                tobacco, books to fashion – from big brands to erotic          from casual to sporty to classic. Shoes too. QOpen 10:00          time in Hamburg. Plus, admire Hamburg’s beautiful Rathaus
     and from retro to modern.                                           lingerie. Of course there’s an opportunity to find the         - 20:00. Closed Sun.                                              at the same time.
     The “Designer Strip” on Neuer Wall (U-Bahn to Jungfern-             perfect souvenir of your stay, perhaps a Hamburg jacket,       Peek & Cloppenburg H-3, Mönckeb ergstr. 6,
                                                                         a Hamburg Airport watch or some eel soup! With 18 food
     stieg) is lined with Cartier, Hermes and other elite stores
     - come armed with a credit card or husband.                         and drink outlets, there’s no reason to stay hungry or
                                                                                                                                        MRathaus, tel. 339 67 01. A large store sellin g
                                                                                                                                        a gre eabl e cl ot hin g for m en, wom en an d chil dren.         Speciality shops
     Eppendorfer Baum, Eppendorfer Landstrasse, Lehmweg                  thirsty for long – from quick snacks to gourmet meals,         Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed              Bären Treff G-3, Mönckebergstr. 17, MJungfernstieg.
     und Hegestrasse offer a multitude of up-scale boutiques             it’s all available. Shops and restaurants are open daily,      Sun.                                                              For some reason many people tend to associate Germany
     and some great second-hand shops. A worthy trip for the             at least from 09:00-20:00 but often longer. For more           Second Schanze D-1, Schulterblatt 75, MStern-                     with gummy bears. Perhaps this store is the reason. Take
     serious shopper; U-Bahn to Eppenforfer Baum.                        information, visit www.ham.airport.de.                         schanze, tel. 43276434. Find some great second-hand               home a giant gummy bear or an assortment of gummy
                                                                                                                                        fashion at this trendy boutique. Guarantees you (almost) that     candies from this store.
                                                                                                                                                                                                          Habitat F-3, Neuer Wall 54, MJungfernstieg, tel.
     Books                                                             Fashion                                                          you will not see yourself coming and going in a more main-
                                                                                                                                        stream choice. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.            357658-0. A much more manageable, though perhaps
     Thalia H-3, Spitalerstr. 8, MHauptbahnhof. This chain             Anson’s H-3, Mönckebergstr. 8, MMönckebergstr.,                  Closed Mon, Sun.                                                  less affordable furniture store, Habitat is everything Ikea
     of bookstores offers a wide range of books and periodicals        tel. 32 81 71 67. Four floors of quality menswear including      Zara H-3, Mönckebergstr. 10, MMönckebergstr., tel.                should be. Two locations in Hamburg serve all parts of town.
     in English, as well as offer a range of Hamburg souvenirs and     some jolly dapper pink businessmen’s shirts and one or two       30 30 98 27. Clothing for men, women and children includ-         Also on Große Elbstrasse 264. Q Open 10:30 - 20:00.
     small gift ideas. Also at Große Bleichen 19 and Hauptstrasse      rather alarming ties. QOpen 10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -           ing Calvin Klein and the rest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Thu,          Closed Sun.
     10. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.                              20:00. Closed Sun.                                               Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.                                    Lego Store Spitalerstrasse 12, tel. 40 18 59 41, www.
                                                                       Budapester Schuhe Neuer Wall 30, MJungfernstieg.                                                                                   lego.com. More Lego than you can handle, in this city-centre
     Department stores                                                 The store is small but the selection large and impressive.
                                                                       A great place to find designer shoes. The prices are no          Malls                                                             shop dedicated to the colourful plastic bricks.
                                                                                                                                                                                                          Tee Gschwendner G-3, Jungfernstieg 7, MJungfern-
     Alsterhaus G-2, Jungfernstieg 16-20, MJungfern-                   bargain though. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.          Hamburg is a shopper’s dream with its numerous pas-               stieg, tel. 3 48 06 20. Also try Tee Handelskontor Bremen,
     stieg, www.city-map.germany-cities.com/hamburg/                   Closed Sun.                                                      sages and handful of malls that offer one-stop shopping.          Große Bleichen 21. Two tea houses with a variety of reason-
     gps_x/9,9642/gps_y/53,5584.html. An upscale depart-               H&M G-2, Jungfernstieg 16-20, MJungfernstieg, tel.                                                                                 ably priced tea in decorative packing. Not to mention, the
     ment store facing the Binnenalster. The fourth floor has a        35 01 53 90. Some might say H&M has invaded Hamburg              Alte Post F-2, Poststr., MJungfernstieg. Books, clothing          staff in both stores were incredibly friendly and helpful. A
     buffet restaurant with a small play area for kids and changing    like the plague - at last count there were 13 in the city.       and a variety of higher end boutiques have found a home in        nice gift idea. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
     room. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.                            Good for affordable, trendy clothes. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.        Hamburg’s old main post office.                                   Closed Sun.
     Galeria Kaufhof Mönckebergstr. 3, MMönckebergstr.,                Closed Sun.                                                      Gänsemarkt Passage F-2, Gänsemarkt 50,
     tel. 33 30 70. Germany’s ubiquitous behemoth department           Hugo Shop F/G-3, Neuer Wall 19, MJungfernstieg, tel.             MGänsemarkt. You are sure to leave with something
     store is the best place in town for ladies’ cosmetics, clothes,   41 91 34 07. Who’d have thought that Hugo Boss carried so        new after entering this passage. For fun and stylish               Stilwerk
     electrical goods, chocolates and everything else under the sun.   many different lines and accessories? However, proof is in the   shoes and accessories, as well as delicious ice cream
     QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.          store. All Hugo Boss clothing and accessories under one roof.    and bagels.                                                        This monumental old malt factory now houses an elegant
     Karstadt G-3, Mönckebergstr. 16, MRathaus, tel. 309               QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.              Galeria Große Bleichen 21, MJungfernstieg. A long,                 shopping centre dedicated to home interiors, design and
     40. A huge department store on six floors currently undergo-                                                                       thin, black and white shopping arcade full of classy clothing,     lifestyle. Located on the Fischmarkt in Hamburg’s central
     ing massive renovation work, selling everything from jewellery                                                                     bookshops and a smattering of cafés packed with good-              harbour near the Landungsbrücke, the complex houses
     to electrical goods to everyday household items. QOpen                                                                             looking people. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.            dozens of renowned and lesser known stores and brands,
     09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.                                                                                                         Closed Sun.                                                        including Poggenpohl, Ligne Roset, Alessi, Forum, Bulthaup,
     Saturn G-3, Mönckebergstr. 16, MMönckebergstr., tel.                                                                               Hamburger Hof G-2, Jungfernstieg 26-30, MJungfern-                 and Bang & Olufsen. To make shopping as pleasant as
     30 95 80. Allegedly the largest electrical goods store in the                                                                      stieg. Cosmetics, contemporary clothing and shoes can be           possible, visitors are also welcome on Sundays when the
     world this big grey lump is packed with floor upon floor of all                                                                    found in this shopping centre.                                     shops are open for viewing (though no purchasing) between
     those gadgets you forgot to pack and more besides. QOpen                                                                           Hanse-Viertel F-2/3, Große Bleichen / Poststr.,                    10:00 and 18:00, and parents can leave their children free
     09:30 - 20:00, Thu, Fri 09:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun.                                                                                 MJungfernstieg, www.hanseviertel.de. A quarter of a                of charge in the supervised play area. Finally, the CoChine
                                                                                                                                        century old and looking good for its age, this luxurious indoor    bistro offers drinks, snacks and meals.
                                                                                                                                        shopping arcade is packed with shops selling everything
       TThoch3                                                                                                                          from clothes to porcelain to perfume. There’s a good Möv-
                                                                                                                                        enpick café in the basement too. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
       At TThoch3, the eye will quickly succumb to oversatura-                                                                          Closed Sun.
       tion of impressions. From rubber ducks, bibs with pirate
       imprints for punks’ offspring, paintings of Hamburg and
       Hamburg souvenirs to foorball-field cuff links. Blue, or-                                                                          Levantehaus
       ange, pink and polka-dotted. All shapes, all price levels.
       The selections at TThoch3 is inexhaustible, because                                                                                An original Hamburg kontor trading house dating from
       the clients are insatiable. TThoch3 is the optimal stop                                                                            1912 has been transformed to house 37 shops, attrac-
       for finding a memento from Hamburg. Tonja Tietjen has                                                                              tive restaurants representing cuisines from around the
       gifts for every occasion and for all friends and relatives,                                                                        world and the five-star Hyatt hotel. With the entrance and
       and even for the shopper him/herself. TThoch3 has af-                                                                              interior balcony decorated with striking animal sculptures
       fordable things make life worth living. And as life and the                                                                        by Barry Baldwin, the complex has enough distractions
       reasons to give presents change all the time, so does                                                                              to keep you busy from morning to night.
       the selection of articles.
       TT³, Beim Grünen Jäger 10, Hamburg, tel. 040-59                                                                                    Levante-Haus H-3, Mönckebergstr. 7, MMönck-                      Stilwerk B-4, Große Elbstr. 68, MKönigstr, tel.
       46 47 54, www.TThoch3.de.QOpen Mon-Fri 11:00-                                                                                      ebergstr., tel. 326816, www.levantehaus.com.                     30 62 11 00, hamburg@stilwerk.de.QOpen 10:00
       19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00.                                                                                                            QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.              - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
                                                                                                      © Hamburg Tourismus GmbH
                                                                      United Kingdom Fehlandstraße 3, MStephansplatz,                 Krankenhaus Mariahilf (hospital) Stader Str. 203c,   University Hospital Eppendorf (dentists) Marti-
        Hamburg’s telephone code is (+49)(0)40                        tel. 448 03 20, fax 44 80 32 32, www.britischebotschaft.        tel. 79 00 60.                                       nistr. 52, MKellinghusenstr., tel. 428 03 32 60. The
                                                                      de.                                                             Rathaus-Apotheke (pharmacy) G-3, Rathausmarkt        University Hospital in Eppendorf is also a good choice for
                                                                      United States G-1, Alsterufer 27/28, MStephansplatz,            19, MRathaus, tel. 3696360.                          emergency dental; alternatively call the dentist hotline at
     Banks                                                            tel. 411 71 100, fax 411 71 222, http://hamburg.
                                                                      usconsulate.gov.
                                                                                                                                                                                           tel. 01805 05 05 18.
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