ORCHARD

TOP & DRESS  | ADVANCED BEGINNER  |  SIZES 0 - 34  |  #8004

PATTERN DETAILS 2

VIEW A VIEW B VIEW C VIEW D BACK

The Orchard Top and Dress is an effortless addition to any wardrobe. Orchard features spaghetti straps and a
dartless a-line silhouette. Inseam pockets are included for the dress views. Sew Orchard in a drapey lightweight
fabric for a flowy tank or sundress. Try it in a light cotton or linen for more structure and volume. The straps
and bias finish can be sewn in a contrast fabric if desired. Orchard is an obvious choice for summer and it also
works well for holidays and events. Pair Orchard with a t-shirt or turtleneck for the cooler months!

Notions Difficulty Sizes Sewing Skills

• Thread Advanced Beginner 0-34 US Learned
• Interfacing: • Sewing inseam pockets
10” (25 cm) x 4” (10 cm) • Attaching bias binding

Fabric Recommendations
Light to medium weight fabrics with no stretch. Linen, cotton (gauze, lawn, batiste, chambray), rayon/viscose,
and lyocell will work well. Structured fabrics will have more dramatic volume and drapier fabrics will have more
fluid movement.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
SIZE CHART 3

inches

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
High Bust/Chest 29 30 31 32 33 34.5 36 38 40
Bust/Chest 31 32 33 34 35 36.5 38 40 42
Waist 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 32 34
Hips 33 34 35 36 37 38.5 40 42 44

18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
High Bust/Chest 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
Bust/Chest 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60
Waist 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
Hips 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62

centimeters

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
High Bust/Chest 73.5 76 78.5 81.5 84 87.5 91.5 96.5 101.5
Bust/Chest 78.5 81.5 84 86.5 89 92.5 96.5 101.5 106.5
Waist 61 63.5 66 68.5 71 73.5 76 81.5 86.5
Hips 84 86.5 89 91.5 94 98 101.5 106.5 112

18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
High Bust/Chest 106.5 112 117 122 127 132 137 142 147.5
Bust/Chest 112 117 122 127 132 137 142 147 152.5
Waist 91.5 96.5 101.5 106.5 112 117 122 124 132
Hips 117 122 127 132 137 142 147.5 152.5 157.5

This pattern has been drafted for a 5'6" (168 cm) tall person

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS - INCHES 4

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
Strap distance 8 8 8.13 8.25 8.38 8.5 8.63 8.75 8.88

Bust/Chest 33 34 35 36 37 38.5 40 42 44

Waist 43 44 45 46 47 48.5 50 52 53

Hip 49 50 51 52 53 54.5 56 58 60

Length (A) 19.8 19.9 20 20.1 20.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6

Length (B) 24.5 24.6 24.7 24.8 24.9 25 25.2 25.3 25.4

Length (C) 35.6 35.7 35.8 35.9 36 36.1 36.2 36.4 36.5

Length (D) 44 44.1 44.2 44.3 44.5 44.6 44.7 44.8 44.9

18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
Strap Distance 9 9.13 9.25 9.38 9.5 9.63 9.75 9.88 10

Bust/Chest 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62

Waist 55 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 71

Hip 62 64 66 68 69.5 71 73 75 77

Length (A) 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 21.4 21.5

Length (B) 25.7 25.8 26 26.1 26.3 26.4 26.5 26.7 26.8

Length (C) 36.7 36.9 37 37.1 37.2 37.3 37.4 37.5 37.6

Length (D) 45 45.1 45.2 45.4 45.5 45.7 45.8 45.9 46

Strap Distance

Length
Chest

Waist

Hip

Strap distance is the distance between the straps across the chest. Chest, waist and hips are measured
around the top/dress at the chest, waist and hips respectively. Length is measured from the top of the
shoulder to the hem.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS - CENTIMETERS 5

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
Strap distance 20.5 20.5 20.5 21 21.5 21.5 22 22 22.5

Bust/Chest 84 86.5 89 91.5 94 98 101.5 106.5 112

Waist 109 112 114.5 117 119.5 123 127 132 134.5

Hip 124.5 127 129.5 132 134.5 138.5 142 147.5 152.5

Length (A) 50.5 50.5 51 51 51.5 51.5 52 52 52.5

Length (B) 62 62.5 62.5 63 63 63.5 64 64.5 64.5

Length (C) 90.5 90.5 91 91 91.5 91.5 92 92.5 92.5

Length (D) 112 112 112.5 112.5 113 113.5 113.5 114 114

18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
Strap Distance 23 23 23.5 24 24 24.5 25 25 25.5

Bust/Chest 117 122 127 132 137 142 147.5 152.5 157.5

Waist 139.5 145 150 155 160 165 170 175.5 180.5

Hip 157.5 162.5 167.5 172.5 176.5 180.5 185.5 190.5 195.5

Length (A) 52.5 53 53 53.5 53.5 54 54 54.5 54.5

Length (B) 65.5 65.5 66 66.5 67 67 67.5 68 68

Length (C) 93 93.5 94 94 94.5 94.5 95 95.5 95.5

Length (D) 114.5 114.5 115 115.5 115.5 116 116.5 116.5 117

Pattern Pieces 3
1 - Front & Back 2
1
2 - Neck Binding
4
3 - Strap

4 - Strap Interfacing

5 - Pocket
5

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
FABRIC REQUIREMENTS 6

Fabric requirements include

bias binding for the neck View D

and arm/strap finish.

If fabric requirement is ‘N/A’

the pattern pieces do not fit View A
on this width of fabric.
View B

View C

View A (cropped top)

yards / meters

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
57" (145 cm) 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4

45" (115 cm) 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.5 1.5 1.5 N/A N/A

View B (top)
yards / meters

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
57" (145 cm) 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8

45" (115 cm) 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 N/A N/A

View C (short dress)

yards / meters

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
57" (145 cm) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3

45" (115 cm) 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 N/A N/A

View D (long dress)

yards / meters

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
57" (145 cm) 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7

45" (115 cm) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS 7

Grading between sizes New Cutting Line Extra Paper

You can grade between sizes for the Orchard top and
dress. Simply draw a new side line in between your FIGURE A:

chosen sizes. See figure A.

Grading out at
the waist/hip
Lengthening/shortening the pattern
You can adjust the pattern if you are taller or shorter
than the height for which the pattern was drafted - 5’6"
(168 cm). See figure B.

Can I add/remove length at the bottom?

Yes you can! However, keep in mind that this will affect
the flare and the sweep of the top/dress. If this is Grading in at
important to you, we recommend using the lengthen/ the waist/hip
shorten line instead.

How much should I add/remove? FIGURE B:

Generally, you want to add/remove the difference

between your height and the height for which the
pattern was drafted divided by two. You can also add
or remove height based on personal experience and
preference. Lengthening
the pattern
Example: You are 5’9" and the pattern was drafted for
somebody 5’6" (difference is 3" or 7.6 cm). Lengthen the
pattern a total of 1.5" (3.8 cm).

1. Cut open at the lengthen/shorten lines.

2. Spread and fill in with extra paper to lengthen or

overlap and tape to shorten.
Shortening
3. True up the side (draw a new line to join the two the pattern
pieces and straighten out the side). Cut off any
excess paper.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
ADJUSTABLE STRAPS 8

The Orchard top/dress has fixed-length straps that also act as bias binding for the armscye. If you
would prefer to have adjustable straps, here are two options for achieving that.

OPTION 1: SHOULDER TIES

Lengthen the straps and tie them at the shoulder instead of joining
them in a fixed loop. You will need to change a few things in the
pattern and the construction.

1a. Cut your shoulder straps longer. You can add 16” (40.5 cm) to
the length of the strap or simply cut 4 shoulder straps instead of 2.

1b. If you cut 4 shoulder straps, join two straps together to create
two longer straps.

1c. Skip the interfacing on the straps since you can regulate their
length by tying them longer or shorter.

1d. When attaching the straps to the top/dress, do not join them in a loop. Instead, place the middle
of the strap at the side seam (if there
is a strap seam, move it over to one
side slightly to reduce bulk at the
underarm). Proceed with the instructions
for sewing the armscye binding and
shoulder straps (see step 19).

1e. Finish the ends of the straps by

tying them in a knot or turning them
under twice and topstitching.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
ADJUSTABLE STRAPS 9

OPTION 2: STRAP HARDWARE

An Orchard top/dress with adjustable strap hardware will look the

same from the front, but will have visible strap hardware when
seen from the back.

You will need two sets of a 3/8” (1 cm) ring and slider to add
adjustable straps. You will also need to change a few things in the
pattern and the construction.

2a. Cut your shoulder straps at least 5” (12.5 cm) longer.

2b. Move the interfacing on the straps to one side instead of

putting it in the middle.

2c. When attaching the straps to the top/dress, do

not join them in a loop. Instead, position the straps
around the armscye with ~1.5” (4 cm) of the strap
overhanging on the back of the top/dress. This will
be used to create the loop to hold the ring.

2d. Proceed with the instructions on how to sew

the shoulder straps (see step 19).

2e. Thread the short back strap through the ring

and fold over the raw edge of the strap towards the
wrong side of the back. Secure with a bartack.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
ADJUSTABLE STRAPS 10

2f. Thread the long front strap through and over

the center bar of the slider. Do not pull the strap
tight just yet.

2g. Thread the end of the long front strap through

the ring and back through and over the center bar
of the slider again.

2h. Fold the end of the strap back onto itself,

creating a small loop around the center bar of
the slider. Secure the raw end with a bartack.

This part can be confusing, so go slow and

make sure your strap does not get twisted.

2i. Repeat for the other shoulder strap.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
PRINTING 11

Printing Your Pattern

The print at home pattern is designed to print on A4 (8.3" x 11.7"), Letter (8.5" X 11"), or A0 (33.1" x 46.8") sized
paper. In your printer settings, uncheck ‘scale to size’ or check ‘actual size’. Print page 2 first, and measure to
ensure that the 2" x 2" (5 cm x 5 cm) square is the correct size. If not, adjust your printer settings and try again.

Page Sizing & Handling

Size Poster Multiple Booklet

Fit

Actual size Choose ‘actual size’ or print at 100% scale

Shrink oversized pages

Custom Scale: 100 %

Choose paper source by PDF page size Uncheck ‘Choose paper source...’

Orientation:
Auto portrait/landscape Center page using ‘Auto portrait/landscape’
Portrait

Landscape

PDF Pattern Layers

This pattern provides each size on an individual layer, so you can print only the Layers panel

sizes you need. Open your PDF in Adobe Acrobat or Adobe Reader and open
the layers panel. Click the eye icon to turn off the layers you do not need before Turn on/off layers
printing.

Assembling Your PDF Pattern

Grab a pair of scissors and some clear scotch tape. Trim the top and right borders off of each page. Tape
together the pages from left to right, matching the triangles and numbers. The thin border lines on each page
should butt up against each other (not overlap). Tape the rows together, completing the pattern.

Printing Copy Shop

The copy shop pattern is designed to print on A0 (33.1" x 46.8") sized paper. The pattern is on one page. When
you take/send the file to the copy shop, make sure it is printed at 100% scale.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
 © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
12

13

19
7

4F
4F

chalk or fabric marker.

Do not clip notches on

Instead, mark with

this pattern piece.
7

2F
2F
The print at home pattern is designed to print on A4 (8.3" x 11.7"), or Letter (8.5" X 11") sized paper.

Grainline

Do not clip center front notch on

Cut this piece on the bias

this pattern piece. Instead, mark

with chalk or fabric marker.
1E 1E

3E 3E

5E 5E

34 32 30 28 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0

18
6

12

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
ORCHARD TOP AND
5 DRESS
VIEWS C, D - POCKET
CUT 4 FABRIC
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34

5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowance included unless

otherwise stated in the instructions
ORCHARD TOP AND
1 DRESS
ALL VIEWS - FRONT AND BACK
6

CUT 2 FABRIC ON FOLD

Seam allowance included:
Cut on fold

5/8” (1.6 cm) side seam

3/8” (1 cm) neck and armhole
ORCHARD TOP AND

ALL VIEWS - NECK BINDING

4E
4E

CUT 2 FABRIC, ON BIAS

2E
2E

DRESS
2
1D 1D

3D 3D

5D 5D
11

17
Lengthen or shorten here
2
4
5

6
8
10
12
14
16
Note: Side seam notches are for views C &
18
D (dresses) pocket placement. Do not mark 20
notches for views A or B (tops). 22

Cut this piece on the bias

24
26
28
30
32
5

4D
4D

34
Cut here for view A
2D
2D
1C 1C

3C 3C

5C 5C

16
4

10

ORCHARD TOP AND

Cut here for view B
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

CUT 2 FABRIC, ON BIAS

All Sizes
DRESS

ALL VIEWS - STRAP

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
Strap distance
4

8 8 8.13 8.25 8.38 8.5 8.63 8.75 8.88

Bust/Chest 33 34 35 36 37 38.5 40 42 44

4C
4C
2C
2C

Waist 43 44 45 46 47 48.5 50 52 53

3
Hip 49 50 51 52 53 54.5 56 58 60
Length (A) 19.8 19.9 20 20.1 20.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6
Length (B) 24.5 24.6 24.7 24.8 24.9 25 25.2 25.3 25.4
Length (C) 35.6 35.7 35.8 35.9 36 36.1 36.2 36.4 36.5
Length (D) 44 44.1 44.2 44.3 44.5 44.6 44.7 44.8 44.9

Grainline
18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
Strap Distance 9 9.13 9.25 9.38 9.5 9.63 9.75 9.88 10
Bust/Chest 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62
Waist 55 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 71
Hip 62 64 66 68 69.5 71 73 75 77
Length (A) 20.7 20.8 20.9 21 21.1 21.2 21.3 21.4 21.5

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS

Length (B) 25.7 25.8 26 26.1 26.3 26.4 26.5 26.7 26.8
Length (C) 36.7 36.9 37 37.1 37.2 37.3 37.4 37.5 37.6
Length (D) 45 45.1 45.2 45.4 45.5 45.7 45.8 45.9 46
1B 1B

3B 3B

5B 5B

15
3

ORCHARD TOP AND

ALL VIEWS - STRAP INTERFACING

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

CUT 2 INTERFACING
Do not clip notches on this pattern
piece. Instead, mark with chalk or
Strap distance

DRESS
20.5 20.5 20.5 21 21.5 21.5 22 22 22.5
Bust/Chest 84 86.5 89 91.5 94 98 101.5 106.5 112
Waist 109 112 114.5 117 119.5 123 127 132 134.5
Hip 124.5 127 129.5 132 134.5 138.5 142 147.5 152.5

fabric marker.
Length (A) 50.5 50.5 51 51 51.5 51.5 52 52 52.5

4
Length (B) 62 62.5 62.5 63 63 63.5 64 64.5 64.5
Length (C) 90.5 90.5 91 91 91.5 91.5 92 92.5 92.5
3

Length (D) 112 112 112.5 112.5 113 113.5 113.5 114 114
18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34

2B
2B
Strap Distance 23 23 23.5 24 24 24.5 25 25 25.5

4B
4B
Bust/Chest 117 122 127 132 137 142 147.5 152.5 157.5
Waist 139.5 145 150 155 160 165 170 175.5 180.5
Hip 157.5 162.5 167.5 172.5 176.5 180.5 185.5 190.5 195.5
Length (A) 52.5 53 53 53.5 53.5 54 54 54.5 54.5
Length (B) 65.5 65.5 66 66.5 67 67 67.5 68 68
Length (C) 93 93.5 94 94 94.5 94.5 95 95.5 95.5
Length (D) 114.5 114.5 115 115.5 115.5 116 116.5 116.5 117
Cut here for view C
1A 1A

3A 3A

5A 5A

14
2

8
Size Chart
inches
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
High Bust/Chest 29 30 31 32 33 34.5 36 38 40
Bust/Chest 31 32 33 34 35 36.5 38 40 42
Waist 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 32 34
Hips 33 34 35 36 37 38.5 40 42 44
18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
High Bust/Chest 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
Bust/Chest 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60
Waist 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
Hips 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62
2

centimeters

2A
2A
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
High Bust/Chest 73.5 76 78.5 81.5 84 87.5 91.5 96.5 101.5
Bust/Chest 78.5 81.5 84 86.5 89 92.5 96.5 101.5 106.5
Waist 61 63.5 66 68.5 71 73.5 76 81.5 86.5
91.5 94 98 101.5 106.5 112

this square should measure

Hips 84 86.5 89

When printed correctly,

18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34

5 cm x 5 cm
High Bust/Chest 106.5 112 117 122 127 132 137 142 147.5

2” x 2” or

4A
4A
Bust/Chest 112 117 122 127 132 137 142 147 152.5
Printing At Home

Waist 91.5 96.5 101.5 106.5 112 117 122 124 132
Hips 117 122 127 132 137 142 147.5 152.5 157.5
This pattern has been drafted for a 5'6" (168 cm) tall person
Cut here for view D

1
PRINTING

paper. In your printer settings, uncheck ‘scale to size’ or check ‘actual size’. Print page 2 first
and measure to ensure that the 2” x 2” (5 cm x 5 cm) square is the correct size. If not, adjust
Layers Panel

The print at home pattern is designed to print on A4 (8.3” x 11.7”) or Letter (8.5” X 11”) sized
Turn on/off

Back
See the instructions for more information about choosing a size and printing this pattern.
ORCHARD TOP AND DRESS

View D
eye icon to turn off the layers you do not need before printing.
Acrobat or Adobe Reader and open the layers panel. Click the
This pattern provides each size on an individual layer, so you
can print only the sizes you need. Open your PDF in Adobe

View C
1

SIZES 0-34

your printer settings and try again.

View B
View A
CUTTING LAYOUTS 13

ALL VIEWS - 57"/ 145 cm and 45”/ 115 cm wide fabrics

ALL SIZES - CUT ON FOLD

Be sure to use the hem cut line for the view you wish to make.

selvage edges

3
5* 5*
2

1 1

fold

* Do not cut these pattern pieces for Views A and B (top views) or if you want to eliminate the pockets.

Optional: Cut bias strips from a contrast fabric, in place of cutting 2 and 3 from the main fabric.
selvage edge

1. Cut 1.5” (4 cm) wide strips of 2. To create longer strips (if needed) place two of the strips at
fabric on a 45 degree angle to the a 90 degree angle with the right sides together. Sew diagonally
selvage. Trim the angled edges. across the corners. Trim the corner and press the seam open.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
SEAM FINISHES 14

OPTION 1 - ZIG-ZAG STITCH OPTION 2 - OVERLOCK FINISH

If you do not have an If you have an

overlocker or serger, overlocker or serger,
you can finish the you can serge the raw
raw edges using a edges together.
tight zig-zag stitch.

OPTION 3 - FRENCH SEAMS

3a. First, attach pieces with wrong sides 3b. Next, fold along the stitching line, bringing
together, using a 1/4” (0.6 cm) seam allowance. the right sides together.

Trim the seam allowance slightly and press to Sew using a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Press
one side. to one side.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
INSTRUCTIONS 15

Legend
Seam allowance is 5/8” (1.6 cm) for
the construction seams and 3/8”
(1 cm) for attaching the bias binding.
Right side of fabric Wrong side of fabric Interfacing

Instructions - All Views

What is
staystitching?
Staystitching prevents stretching
and warping of the fabric while
sewing. Areas cut on a curve or
angle are very prone to stretching.
Don’t skip this important step!
Staystitching is done using a
regular stitch length.

1. On both front and back pieces, staystitch along the neckline and arm openings 1/4” (0.6 cm) away from
the raw edge. Stitch from each shoulder down to the center front and back, and from each shoulder down to
each armscye.

Applying Fusible Interfacing:

Place the glue side down on the wrong
side of the fabric. Cover with a press
cloth. Press your iron down on the
interfacing to melt the glue. Hold for
10 seconds before lifting and moving
your iron. Do not drag the iron. Lift
2. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the straps, and press to avoid misshaping. A press
in between the notches on the pattern piece. cloth protects your fabric from the iron
and your iron from the glue.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
 16

3. Fold and press each long edge of the neck binding in towards the
middle. Press the neck binding in half. The raw edges of the binding
should now be enclosed.

4. Repeat for the other neck binding and the shoulder straps.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
 17

5. With the right side of the neck binding

facing the wrong side of the neckline of one
of the front/back pieces, unfold the binding
and pin it to the neckline, matching center
notch and raw edges. Both wrong sides
will be facing up here.

Note: the neckline binding is longer and

will extend past the neckline.

Sew in the ditch of the first fold,

using a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance.

6. Press the binding and seam allowances away

from the top/dress.

Try to press only on the seam so you do not

remove your press lines.

7. Grade the seam.

Grading Seams
To reduce bulky seams, trim your seam
allowances! Trim the top/dress seam down
to 1/4" (0.6 cm).

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
 18

8. Fold the binding twice (following your pre-pressed

fold lines). Enclose the raw edge of the neckline in the
binding and cover your first line of stitching. Pin.

9. Working from the right side, edgestitch the binding in

place, sewing 1/8” (0.3 cm) from the edge of the binding.
Trim away excess binding on either side.

Repeat steps 5-9 for the other neckline of the top/dress.

Alternative Binding

When working with stable fabrics or if you

have experience with attaching binding,
you can finish the front and back neckline
faster using this alternative method.

Without unfolding the binding, sandwich

the raw edge of the neckline in-between
the folds on the binding and pin in
place. Working from the right side,
edgestitch 1/8” (0.3 cm) from the edge
of the binding. Make sure that your
stitches catch the folded edge of the
binding on the wrong side.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
 19

Views C & D (dresses) - Pockets are optional! If you want to skip them go to Step 17.
Views A & B (tops) skip to Step 17.

10. Finish the curved edge of all 4 pocket

pieces using your preferred method.

11. With right sides together and matching

notches, place a pocket piece onto the
dress front/back.

Sew the pocket to the dress using a 1/2”

(1.3 cm) seam allowance.

12. Finish the side of the dress together with the

side of the pocket using your preferred method.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
 20

What is
understitching?
Understitching is a line of stitches
sewn close to the edge of a facing or a
pocket. It is done using a regular stitch
length. Understitching prevents the
facing or a pocket bag from rolling
towards the outside of the
garment.

13. Press the pocket and seam allowance away from the dress. Understitch the seam allowance to the
pocket bag, 1/8” (0.3 cm) away from the pocket attachment seam.

14. Repeat steps 11-13 for the

remaining 3 pockets.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
 21

Pivoting
15. With right sides together, pin the dress front and back at
Leave the needle in
the side seams and around the pocket bags.
the down position and lift
Sew the side seams, using a 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowance, the presser foot to pivot while
starting at the underarm and sewing 5/8” down from the top sewing. This prevents the
of the pocket, pivoting to sew around the pocket bag, and fabric and stitches from
pivoting again to sew down to the hem. shifting out of place.

16. Press the seam allowances and pocket

bags towards the front of the dress.

Note: The back and front of the dress are

identical, so just pick a side to be the front
and go with it!

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
 22

Optional
If you do not like your
inseam pocket bags being
loose inside the garment, you
can topstitch them to the
front of the dress.

Views A & B (tops)

Views C & D (dresses) skip to Step 18.

17. With right sides together, pin and sew the

side seams of the top using a 5/8” (1.6 cm)
seam allowance. Finish seam allowances as
desired and press them towards the back.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
 23

18. Unfold the straps and with right sides together, join them into loops using a 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam
allowance. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4” (0.6 cm). Press seams open. Re-press the folds if necessary.

19. With the right side of the strap facing the wrong side of the top/dress, open up the folds on the
strap and pin it to one armscye. Shift the strap seam 1/4” (0.6 cm) to either side of the side seam to
reduce bulk at the underarm. Both wrong sides are facing up here. The interfaced part of the strap
will go over the shoulder and may extend onto the top for some sizes. Sew in the ditch of the first fold
around the armscye.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
 24

20. Grade the top/dress seam allowance. Press the strap and seam allowance away from the top/dress.
Try to press only on the seam so you do not remove your press lines.

21. Working from the right side, fold the binding twice (following your pre-pressed fold lines). Enclose
the raw edge of the armscye in the binding. For the shoulder section, fold the strap along the pre-
pressed fold lines. Pin in place. This will enclose the raw edges and create the shoulder strap.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
 25

22. Edgestitch the strap from the right side, sewing around the entire strap and armscye, 1/8” from the
edge. Start and stop near the underarm.

23. Repeat steps 20-23 for the other armscye and shoulder strap. The bias can stretch out, so try to make
sure both shoulder straps end up the same length.

Alternative
method
Follow the instructions for
the alternative binding method
of the front/back necklines
here for a faster approach.
See page 18.

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 26

24. Fold the hem of the top/dress 1/4” (0.6 cm) to the wrong side twice and press. Edgestitch 1/8” (0.3 cm)
from the inner folded edge.

Congratulations! You just sewed a top and/or a dress!

Share your make on Instagram! #OrchardTop and #OrchardDress

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.
SEWING GLOSSARY 27

Basting
A long temporary straight stitch used to hold layers together until a final stitch is sewn.

Notch
A notch is a mark on the pattern that can be cut into the seam allowance to assist you in lining up your fabric
pieces. Take care not to cut past the seam allowance when making notches.

Finish seam / finish edge

Finishing a seam or fabric edge helps to stop the fabric from fraying (unraveling) and stabilizes knit seams. Use
a serger or overlocker to finish knit seams.

Grainline
The grainline runs along the lengthwise grain, parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Line up the grainline
marked on the pattern pieces with the grain line of the fabric before cutting to ensure proper fit and drape of
your finished garment.

Right side & wrong side

The right side of your fabric refers to the side you want facing out and the wrong side is the side that
faces in against your body.

Serger/Overlocker
A sewing machine used for overcasting to prevent material from fraying at the edge.

Selvedge
The finished edge of the fabric that runs the length of the fabric.

Staystitching
A line of stitching sewn in curved or angled areas of the cut pattern, that are prone to stretching. Staystitching
prevents stretching of these areas and is done using a regular stitch length.

Topstitching
A line of stitching that adds detail to seams and edges and is visible on the garment. Topstitching is typically
more than 1/8" (0.3 cm) from the edge and can be decorative.

Understitch
Stitching a line close to the edge of a facing to keep it from rolling toward the outside.

Zig-zag stitch
A back-and-forth stitch used in stitching stretch fabrics. The wider the zig-zag stitch, the more the seam can
stretch.

ORCHARD TOP & DRESS © 2022 Helen’s Closet Patterns. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Not for resale or profit.