TROUSERS

DAPHNA

SIZES
34–52

DIFFICULTY

INTERMEDIATE
 FROM THE FOUNDER
OF THE #VIKISEWS BRAND

Back in 2016, when I was working on my first

set of sewing instructions, I was trying to write
them in such a way that even a complete beginner
could easily understand and use them to create
their very first garment. These instructions laid
the foundation for the Vikisews brand, its vision
and its mission. I wanted to create modern patterns
with the most detailed and clear instructions.

Now, with each new collection we are constantly

improving our instructions, amending them and
adding more relevant details. By the time the final
product reaches you, our drafters, correctors, and
editors would have spent weeks perfecting every
word and every photograph. If you compile a few
of our instructions together, you will get a sewing
manual that will assist you in sewing all kinds of
garments at any difficulty level.

And I would be very happy if these instructions

helped you to turn your hobby into a lifelong
passion… Enjoy the process! Create your ultimate
dream wardrobe! Wear your garments proudly for
years to come!

If you have any questions, please contact us at

info@vikisews.com - we are always there to help.

02
 DAPHNA PATTERN DESCRIPTION
Daphna is a pair of loose-fitting, straight-cut palazzo trousers with pressed
creaselines on the front and back. At the waist, there are two soft pleats
facing the center on each side of the front. The back features waist darts.
There are functional pockets in the side seams. The trousers have an applied
waistband with belt loops. The upper edge of the waistband sits at the
natural waistline. Daphna fastens with a fly front zipper, as well as with a
hook-and-bar. The trousers are floor-length.

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 IMPORTANT!

The contents of this pattern are copyright protected and belong exclusively
to VikiSews. You may use VikiSews patterns for personal use. It is prohibited
to share VikiSews patterns and instructions with third parties, as well as to
publish patterns and instructions online for public access. According to part
1 of clause 1252 and clause 1301 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation,
failure to comply with the mentioned rules constitutes a breach of the legislation
in force in the field of copyright and entails liability of the violator. Illegal use
or distribution will be prosecuted in accordance with legislation.

You may use VikiSews patterns for commercial use, to sew custom-made
garments and/or create fashion collections, on the condition that the patterns
are solely used in a manufacturing setting and are not further shared with
individuals.

04
TOTAL EASE ALLOWANCE
Waistline ease Hipline ease

сm 5 20.5

inches 2 8 1/8

GARMENT LENGTH
Height, cm Side seam length Height, ft Side seam length
including waistband, cm including waistband, in

1 (154–160) 111 1 (5’1”–5’3”) 43 3/4

2 (162–168) 115 2 (5’4”–5’6”) 45 1/4
3 (170–176) 119 3 (5’7”–5’9”) 46 7/8
4 (178–184) 123 4 (5’10”–6’1”) 48 3/8

SUGGESTED FABRIC
To sew these trousers, choose suiting fabrics with the following properties:
• medium-weight, pliable, breathable, non-stretch or low-stretch, opaque
• the fabric content can include natural (wool, silk, cotton, linen), artificial (viscose), blends (wool +
silk, wool + polyester, cotton + viscose, etc.), and synthetic fibers (polyester, polyester + elastane)
• the following fabrics are recommended: wool suiting, gabardine, denim, tweed, corduroy, linen,
twill, wool crepe.

We do not recommend very stretchy knit materials (jersey fabric) and lightweight sheer fabrics
(chiffon, organza, stretch lace).

For the lining choose lining fabric which includes artificial (viscose), blends (viscose + elastane, viscose
+ polyester, etc.), and synthetic fibers (polyester, polyester + elastane).

The trousers in the photo are made of suiting fabric. This fabric is medium-weight, pliable, soft,
and has little stretch. The fiber content is a blend of polyester, viscose and spandex. The lining is
viscose + polyester.

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FABRIC AND NOTIONS REQUIREMENTS
1. Main fabric, 140 cm wide, to be cut in one direction, in meters:

Size
Height, cm
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

1 (154–160) 2 2 2 2.05 2.1 2.1 2.15 2.25 2.3 2.3

2 (162–168) 2.05 2.05 2.05 2.05 2.1 2.15 2.2 2.25 2.35 2.35
3 (170–176) 2.15 2.15 2.15 2.15 2.15 2.2 2.25 2.3 2.45 2.45
4 (178–184) 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.25 2.25 2.35 2.5 2.55

Main fabric, 55" wide, to be cut in one direction, in yards:

Size
Height, ft
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

1 (5’1”–5’3”) 2 1/8 2 1/8 2 1/8 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 3/8 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 1/2
2 (5’4”–5’6”) 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 1/2 2 5/8 2 5/8
3 (5’7”–5’9”) 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 5/8 2 5/8
4 (5’10”–6’1”) 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 5/8 2 3/4 2 3/4

2. Lining fabric, 140 cm (55") wide, for all heights:

Size 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

Yardage, m 0.34 0.34 0.35 0.35 0.36 0.36 0.37 0.37 0.38 0.39

Yardage, yd 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8

IMPORTANT! When purchasing fabric, please account for

shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.

3. Fusible interfacing, 140 cm (55") wide, for all heights

Size 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

Yardage, m 0.38 0.4 0.42 0.44 0.46 0.48 0.5 0.52 0.54 0.56

Yardage, yd 3/8 3/8 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 5/8 5/8 5/8

06
4. One trouser zipper, 20 cm (8") long, for all sizes in all heights
5. One button, 1.5–2 cm (5/8–3/4") in diameter
6. One pair of hook-and-bar fastener
7. Matching thread, 5 spools (1 spool for the sewing machine and 4 spools for the overlocker)

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• sewing machine for construction
• overlocker for finishing raw edges. It may be replaced with a stretch overlock stitch or a zigzag
stitch on the sewing machine (overlock or zigzag stitch width 2–3 mm, stitch length 2.5 mm)
• buttonhole foot for the sewing machine
• stitch-in-the-ditch foot for the sewing machine (optional).

PATTERN PIECES LIST

1. From main fabric: 2. From lining fabric:
• front leg - cut 2 • pocket bag - cut 2 (to be attached to
• back leg - cut 2 the pocket opening on the front leg).
• pocket bag - cut 2 (to be attached to
the pocket opening on the back leg)
• belt - cut 1 3. From interfacing:
• fly shield - cut 1 on fold • fly extension - cut 1
• belt loops - cut 1. • belt - cut 1.

IMPORTANT! Don’t forget to transfer all pattern

markings and notches onto the fabric.

Also, to interface the pocket opening, cut 2 strips of interfacing that are 1.5 cm (5/8") wide and as
long as the pocket opening (to be measured on the pattern piece), plus an additional 3 cm (1 1/8").
The grainline of the interfacing should be parallel to the longer side of the strip (along the selvedge
of the interfacing).

SEAM ALLOWANCES
All pattern pieces include seam allowances as follows:
• hem allowance - 4 cm (3 1/8")
• all other seams - 1 cm (3/8").
Take this into account when laying out pattern pieces on the fabric.

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CUTTING LAYOUT

Main fabric with a directional print, 140 cm (55") wide,

folded, for sizes 34–48 in all heights

fold

selvedge

The waistband piece is to be cut on a single layer of fabric.

Main fabric with a directional print, 140 cm (55") wide,

folded, for sizes 50–52 in all heights

fold

selvedge

The waistband piece is to be cut on a single layer of fabric.

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 Lining fabric with a non-directional print, 140 cm (55")
wide, cut on a single layer, for all sizes in all heights

selvedge

selvedge
Interfacing, 140 cm (55") wide, cut on a single
layer, for all sizes in all heights
selvedge

selvedge
The waistband piece is to be cut on a single layer of interfacing.

READY? LET’S GET SEWING!

09
 Fully interface the waistband piece.
Partially interface the following pieces:
• the pocket opening seam allowances. To do so, cut strips
of interfacing that are 1.5 cm (5/8") wide and as long as the
segment to be interfaced. The grainline of the interfacing
should be parallel to the longer side of the strip (along the
selvedge of the interfacing).
• the seam allowance edge for finishing the fly on the left-
leg front piece.
• the fly extension on the right-leg front piece.
To interface, put the gluey side of the interfacing (the side
that feels rough to the touch) on top of the wrong side of
the fabric piece (or a section thereof) and press with the
iron.

Do not iron the piece, but instead press it section by

section, holding it down with the iron a few seconds until
that section is adhered and then pressing down the next
section. You may use a cotton pressing cloth to protect your
iron sole. Once the interfacing process is complete, leave
the piece on a hard, flat surface for 15 minutes for it to
cool down.

Trace baste along the markings on the front and back leg
pieces to mark the creaselines, as well as the center front
front leg back leg
line in the fly extension area.
Use light-colored thread to avoid color transfer when steam
pressing the fabric.
Press the creaselines on the front and back leg pieces.

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 Steam press the back leg pieces.
To do so, place the back and front leg pieces together,
one on top of the other, right sides together. Align along
the inseam and match the knee level notches.
The crotch point on the back leg piece is lower by 1 cm
(3/8") compared to the crotch point on the front leg piece.
Stretch out while steam pressing the inseam segment
between the crotch point and the knee level notch on the
back leg piece to make it as long as the inseam segment
on the front leg piece.

We recommend performing a first test fitting in the main fabric on any garment (in case you did not make
a toile of the garment and made no adjustments to the pattern).
How? After applying interfacing and fusible tape, we recommend steam pressing the trouser leg pieces, and
then basting the darts and pleats, assembling the garment by basting the main seams (side seams, inseams,
crotch seam, basting the waistband in place). Baste the hem.
The test fitting aims to check:
• the balance of the garment – side seams aligned vertically
• the waistline
• the crotch seam
• the ease and length of the garment.
The creaselines on the front and back legs should be placed exactly at the center of the pieces and run
vertically.
Assembling the garment in the right way is essential to achieve a good fit. Do not overlook the notches.
Start by matching the notches of the garment pieces, and then straighten the fabric and pin in between the
notches.
To baste the garment you can:
• machine-stitch the seams (use a 4–5 mm stitch length)
• baste by hand (approximately 1 cm (3/8") stitch length).
If after basting, one piece ends up being bigger than the other one, do not rush to true them (making them
identical by trimming the excess). First, make sure all notches match. Second, lay your pieces on a flat surface
and try once again to baste them. If you still end up with pieces not equal in size, for example, after one has
been stretched out, or there was a mistake made while cutting-out, the pieces should be trued after performing
the test fit, while constructing the actual garment.
After assembling the garment, gently press it. Press the seam allowances to one side or flat.
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 Important! Check if the chosen fabric is prone to be left with visible holes from the needle (such as
leather, suede, raincoat fabric, silk, etc.). In such case, check the fit or detect any potential fit issues by
sewing a toile first. Test fitting the garment from the main fabric is either not done at all, or has the
purpose to solely adjust the length, decide on the buttons/snaps placement.
What should be considered when testing the fit?
Analyze the volume of the garment at the waistline, hipline, and knee level. Verify the length of the
garment and crotch depth.
Pay attention if the garment has fit issues due to individual body features.
After the test fit, alter the pattern pieces symmetrically on both sides of the garment, and if necessary,
baste the garment again for a new test fit.

Place the pocket bag to the front leg piece, right

sides together. Align along the pocket opening. Pin,
baste, and then machine-stitch to attach the pocket
bag. The stitching line should start at the upper edge,
and break at the pocket opening notch. Backstitch at
the beginning and end of the seam.
Press the seam allowances flat.

Place the second pocket bag to the back leg piece,

right sides together. Align along the pocket opening.
Pin, baste, and then machine-stitch to attach the pocket
bag. The stitching line should start at the upper edge,
and break at the bottom pocket opening notch.
Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

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 Clip into the seam allowances at the bottom pocket
opening notch on the front leg piece, at 1–2 mm from
the stitching line.

Join the front and back leg pieces right sides together.
Align along the side seams. Pin, baste, and then
machine-stitch the side seams.
Important! The stitching should be performed in two
steps. First, start machining at the upper edge of the
pocket bag, pause at the top pocket opening notch,
turn at 90 degrees toward the side seam and continue
stitching until you reach pocket-bag-to-trousers stitching
line. Second, start machining at the bottom pocket
opening notch, pause at the side seam, turn at 90
degrees and continue stitching until you reach the
bottom edge of the leg pieces.
Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seams.

Hand baste the pocket opening closed.

Press the seam flat.

Turn the pocket bags toward the front leg piece, right
sides together, and align along the edges. Pin, baste,
and machine-stitch. Machine again exactly over the first
stitching line.
Press the seam flat.

13
 Overlock along the perimeter of the pocket bags with
the pocket bag in the main fabric facing up.
Press the seam flat.

With the back leg facing up, overlock the side seam
allowances together with the seam allowances of the
pocket bag.
Press the side seam flat, and then press the seam
allowances toward the front leg piece.

The photo shows the wrong side of the front leg

piece.

Turn the garment through to the right side and

remove temporary basting stitches.

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 Move the whole garment out of the way to gain
access to the pocket opening. Topstitch along the
pocket opening only using a 5 mm (just under 1/4")
seam allowance and a 3–4 mm stitch length.

Working from the right side of the garment, machine

reinforcement stitches (3 in total) at the top and bottom
edge of the pocket opening, joining the reinforcement
stitches with the topstitching. Pull the threads of the
reinforcement stitches to the wrong side, knot them
together and hide inside the seam using a needle.

Press the finished pocket flat.

Transfer the dart markings from the pattern piece

onto the back leg pieces. Pin along the dart legs, baste,
and then machine-stitch. Start machining at the widest
part of the dart. Backstitch at the beginning, and then
continue the stitching, breaking it at the dart point.
Leave long tails of threads, knot them together, and
then hide the threads within the dart using a needle.
Press the dart flat, and then press it toward the
crotch seam. Steam press to shrink out the ease at
the dart point.

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 Join the front and back leg pieces together along the
inseam edges, right sides together. Match the notches,
align the edges, pin, baste, and then machine-stitch.
Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Overlock the seam allowances with the back leg piece
facing up.

Press the seam flat, and then press the seam

allowances toward the front leg piece.

Important! To prevent imprinting the seam allowances

onto the right side of the fabric, do not press too
hard when steam pressing.

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 Overlock the crotch edges on the right and left leg
pieces with the right side of the garment facing up.
Press the finished edges flat.

Turn the right leg piece through to the right side

and tuck it inside the left leg piece (which has the
wrong side out). Join the right and left leg pieces along
the crotch seam, match the inseams and notches.
Align the edges, pin, baste, and then machine-stitch
starting at the notch. Machine again exactly over the
first stitching line. Backstitch at the beginning and end
of the seam.
Press the crotch seam allowances open down to half
of the seam at the back of the trousers, with the rest
pressed flat.

Fold the fly shield piece in half lengthwise, right sides

together. Pin, baste, and then machine-stitch along the
short edge, backstitching at the beginning and end of
the seam.
Turn the piece through to the right side, and then
push out the corner. Press the seam flat.
Overlock the long edges.
Press the finished piece flat.

17
 Steam and press the zipper tape to prevent it from
shrinking in the finished garment.
Place one side of the zipper over the left front leg,
right sides together. Pin, baste, and machine-stitch with
backstitches.

Place the fly shield onto the zipper, matching up the

finished edge of the fly shield with the center seam
edge of the left front leg. Align the edges, pin the fly
shield to the garment and baste. Machine-stitch exactly
over the zipper stitching line. Backstitch at the beginning
and end.

Remove the basting stitches.

Press the seam flat, and then press the seam allowance
towards the left front leg.

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 Do the zipper up. Working from the right side of the
garment, align the right front leg along the front
centerline. Hand-baste the fly part in place following
the markings of the front centerline.

Turn the trousers through to the wrong side. Place

the second zipper part to the fly extension seam
allowance on the right front leg piece. Pin and baste.
Temporarily turn the fly shield piece away and secure
with pins.
The zipper should be pinned to the FLY EXTENSION
SEAM ALLOWANCE ONLY.
Machine-stitch the zipper to the fly extension at
3 mm from the edge of the zipper tape. Backstitch at
the beginning and end of the seam.

Using tailor's chalk or a self-erasing pen (to be tested

on a leftover piece of fabric), mark the fly topstitching
line on the right side of the right-leg front piece.
Hand-baste the fly in place. Working from the right
side, use matching thread to topstitch the fly following
the markings. Ensure the fly shield piece is turned
away and does not get caught in the stitching. Backstitch
at the beginning and end of the seam.

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 Working from the wrong side, pin the corner of the
fly shield piece together with the curved edge of the
fly extension.
Machine reinforcement stitches to secure the fly
extension to the fly shield, with the wrong side of the
fly extension facing up.
Press the finished fly flat.

Overlock one long edge of the belt loop with the

right side facing up.
Press flat.
Turn the raw edge of the belt loop piece under by
1 cm (3/8") and press in place.
Fold the finished long edge over the raw edge by
1 cm (3/8") to cover it, press, and then baste.

Work two parallel rows of topstitching at 2 mm from

the edge of the belt loop pieces using a 4 mm stitch
length setting.
Press the finished piece flat, and then cut to make
5 equal belt loops.

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 Form the pleats on both sides of the front leg pieces,
ensuring all notches match. Pin, and then hand baste.

Transfer from the pattern pieces the belt loops

placement markings along the upper edge of the
trousers.
Place the belt loops to the upper edge of the trousers,
right sides together. Pin and baste.

Overlock the long edge of the waistband piece with

the right side facing up.
Fold the waistband piece in half lengthwise, and then
press in place.

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 Place the long raw edge of the waistband to the
upper edge of the trousers, right sides together. The
short edge of the waistband should extend by 1 cm
(3/8") over the fly extension (shield). Pin, and then
baste.

Trousers second test fitting

Why? To evaluate the overall fit of the trousers on the body, to decide on the finished
garment length.
How? Perform the second test fitting after constructing the garment along the side seams
and/or inseams, machine-stitching the darts, finishing the pockets in the side seams (if any).
What should be considered when testing the fit? Pay attention to the waistband: it should
not be misshapen or stretched out and it should be as long as the upper trousers edge. Verify
the length of the garment.

Machine-stitch to attach the waistband to the garment.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Press the seam flat, and then press the seam
allowances toward the waistband.

Fold the waistband in half, right sides together. Align

the short edges, pin and baste.
Machine-stitch the short edges of the waistband.
Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. Press
the seam allowances flat.
Turn the edges of the waistband to the right side,
push out the corners and ensure they form a right
angle. Press the finished ends of the waistband.

22
 Place the overlocked edge of the waistband to the
wrong side of the waistband-to-trousers seam, covering
the seam allowances by 1 cm (3/8").
Pin and then hand-baste.
Working from the right side of the garment, stitch-in-
the-ditch of the waistband-to-trousers seam to secure
the bottom edge of the waistband. Backstitch at the
beginning and end of the seam.
Press the finished waistband flat.

Turn the loose end of each belt loop under by 1 cm

(3/8") and then place to the upper edge of the waistband.
Pin, baste if necessary.

To secure the belt loops, machine-stitch using a triple

stitch setting (one stitch forward, second stitch backward,
and then third stitch forward) or a narrow reinforcement
zigzag stitch.
Press the finished belt loops flat.

Overlock the bottom edge of the leg pieces with the

right side of the fabric facing up.
Lay the trousers on the table and then smooth them
out. Working from the right side, mark the hemline
using tailor's chalk [the hem allowance is 4 cm (1 5/8")].
Turn the hem allowance under and baste in place.
Blind hem stitch along the trouser hem.
Press the hems flat.

23
 Mark the button and buttonhole, as well as the hook
and bar placement following the markings on the
pattern pieces. Machine a buttonhole on the left-leg
waistband piece using a dedicated foot for the sewing
machine. Press the buttonhole, and then cut it open.
Hand-sew the hook in place. Working on the right-leg
waistband piece, hand-sew the button, as well as the
bar piece.

Give the garment a final press.

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 SEW TOGETHER
WITH #VIKISEWS!
CREATE YOUR DREAM
WARDROBE!

#vikisews_ daphna