BAT

FINISHED SIZE Approx. 13cm/ 5in tall

YARN A Small amount 4-ply/ fingering yarn in light brown

YARN B Small amount mohair/ lace-weight fuzzy yarn in brown

I used; A - Drops Alpaca in Light Brown- shade no. 0607 ;

B - Drops Kid-Silk in Chocolate - shade no. 35

KNITTING NEEDLES Pair size 2mm/ US 0 straight knitting needles

TENSION 12.5 rows and 11 stitches over 2.5cm with 2mm needles and 4-ply yarn

EXTRAS Pair 7.5mm (or 7mm) black glue-in eyes (you can use Toy Safety Eyes
with backings if you like but look out for the ‘Notes’ in the patterns regarding these);
Fabric glue (I used strong stick glue similar to Pritt Stick);
Toy filling (for small items you’ll only need a tiny bit of regular toy filling or just use
scrap yarn);
10 x locking type stitch markers (see colour guide on Page 2);
Safety pin for holding stitches when not in use;
Scissors and yarn-sewing needle;
Dark coloured thread and white coloured thread;
Light-brown felt measuring no less than 26cm/ 11in x 12cm/ 5in and no more than
1mm thick plus sewing thread to match

I bought my eyes from here - CelloExpress

and my felt from here - HandMadeOnly Etsy
© Claire Garland
 Bat page 2 Bat page 3

COLOURED MARKER GUIDE: SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:

This guide is here to pull out and use together with the pattern should W+Tk bring working yarn to the front of the work, slip next stitch p-wise onto the
to wish to use similar coloured guides to mine for ease of following, RH needle, take working yarn to the back, slip the slipped stitch back onto the LH
especially at the making-up stage: needle, turn the knitting = W+Tk (wrap and turn knit)

HEAD & BODY W+Tp take working yarn to the back of the work, slip next stitch knit-wise onto the
PINK MUZZLE RH needle, bring working yarn to the front, slip the slipped stitch back onto the LH
YELLOW NECK needle, turn the knitting = W+Tp (wrap and turn purl)
GREEN FORELEG PLACEMENT
GENERAL ABBREVIATIONS:
BLUE HIND LEG
K = knit
ORANGE BELLY
P = purl
*PATTERN NOTE:
I was in a conundrum as to whether to stay ‘true-ish’ to the bat
inc = increase
anatomy and have only bat wings or to go down the cute avenue dec = decrease
and add forelegs - so I’ve written the pattern for both.
K2tog/ K3tog = knit two together/ knit three together
If you want forelegs simply continue to work through the
pattern to the end of Page 27 or if you don’t, omit the forelegs P2tog/ P3tog = purl two together/ purl three together
section and work the continuation of the wings on Pages 28/29
RH/LH = right hand/ left hand RS/WS = right side/ wrong side
- you can of course have both!!
st/ sts =stitch/ stitches

Skpo = slip one stitch, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch to decrease

by one stitch

Kfb = knit into front then into back of stitch to increase by one stitch

Pfb = Purl into front then knit into back of stitch to increase by one stitch

p-wise = purl-wise

WS = Wrong side, purl-side in the case of this pattern

 Bat page 4 Bat page 5

Beginning with the Head with yarn A Forehead

Cast on 8 sts for Mouth Seam NOTE: although you’ll be turning mid-row, these following rows are NOT wrap
Row 1. inc) Kfb, k2, kfb twice, k2, kfb – 12sts and turn short rows as before:
Row 2. Purl Row 7. inc) K10, kfb twice, k1, Turn
Row 3. inc) Kfb, k4, kfb twice, k4, kfb – 16sts Row 8. P6, Turn
Row 4. Purl Row 9. inc) K2, kfb twice, k2, Turn
Row 10. P8, Turn
Left Muzzle
Row 11. inc) K2, kfb, k2, kfb, k2, Turn
Work short rows for Left Muzzle
Row 12. P10, Turn
Short Row 1. K5, W+Tk
Row 13. inc) Kfb four times, k2, kfb four times – 18sts
Short Row 2. P5
Row 14. P18, Turn
Short Row 3. inc) Kfb, k3, W+Tk
Row 15. inc) Kfb, k16, kfb, then knit across all 9 sts from Right Cheek on left
Short Row 4. P5
knitting needle – 29sts
Short Row 5. K4, W+Tk
Row 16. Purl across all 29 sts then purl across the 9 sts from Left Cheek - 38sts
Short Row 6. P4
Row 17. dec) K8, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k8 - 36sts
Row 5. inc) Kfb, k7, kfb twice, k7 to end of row – 20sts
Rows 18, 20 & 22. Purl
Right Muzzle Row 19. dec) K15, skpo, k2, k2tog, k15 to end of row - 34sts
Work short rows for Right Muzzle PM on first and last stitch of last knit row for Left and Right Neck Markers
Short Row 1. P5, W+Tp Row 21. dec) K14, skpo, k2, k2tog, k14 to end of row - 32sts
Short Row 2. K5 Row 23. dec) K14, skpo, k2tog, k14 to end of row – 30sts
Short Row 3. inc) Pfb, p3, W+Tp Row 24. Purl
Short Row 4. K5
Divide the Head Back to create Head Back Seam as follows:
Short Row 5. P4, W+Tp
Row 25.dec) Cast off 9 sts for Head Back Seam, Left-Side, knit next 11 sts, cast off
Short Row 6. K4
last 9 sts for Head Back Seam, Right-Side – 12sts
Row 6. inc) Pfb, purl to end of row – 22sts
Head Back
PM on first and last stitch of last row for Left and Right Muzzle Markers
WS facing rejoin yarn to 12 sts for Head Back, continue as follows:
Rows 26-38. Beginning with a purl row work 13 rows stocking stitch
Cut yarn, leave all 12 Head Back stitches on a large safety pin for now.
 Bat page 6 Bat page 7

NECK AND BACK 3 PICKED UP 3 PICKED UP

& KNITTED 12 HEAD BACK & KNITTED
Ref. Figs. 1 & 2
STITCHES STITCHES STITCHES
Joining Left Side of Head:
With yarn, begin at bat’s Left Neck Marker, RS facing, with yarn A, pick up
and knit 3 sts evenly along row ends to the left-side corner of Head Back Seam
Cast-Off Edge; Slip all 12 Head Back stitches from the safety pin onto a knitting
needle then k12 across the twelve Head Back stitches
– Joining Right Side of Head: Continue to pick up across the right side of the
head, all onto the same needle as follows:
Pick up and knit 3 sts evenly along row ends from right corner of Head Back
Seam Cast-Off Edge to Right Neck Marker – 18sts – pick up and knit from A to
B; knit across from C to D; pick up and knit from E to F
Remove both Neck Markers. FIG. 2

Row 1. Purl all 18 sts

12 HEAD BACK Row 2. inc) Kfb, k8, m1, k8, kfb – 21sts
STITCHES
Row 3. Purl
D C Row 4. K6, PM on last stitch for Left Foreleg Placement Marker, k10, PM on last
RIGHT NECK
MARKER stitch for Right Foreleg Placement Marker, k5 to end of row
Rows 5-13. Beginning with a purl row work nine rows stocking stitch
E B Row 14. inc) Kfb, k7, kfb, k3, kfb, k7, kfb - 25sts

F A LEFT NECK Rows 15, 17, 19, 21, 23 & 25. Purl
MARKER Row 16. inc) Kfb, k9, kfb, k3, kfb, k9, kfb - 29sts
Row 18. inc) Kfb, knit to last st, kfb - 31sts
Row 20. dec) K12, skpo, k3, k2tog, k12 to end - 29sts
Row 22. dec) K2tog, k9, skpo, k3, k2tog, k9, k2tog - 25sts
CAST ON STITCHES
FOR NOSE Row 24. dec) K9, skpo, k3, k2tog, k9 to end - 23sts
Row 26. dec) K8, skpo, k3, k2tog, k8 to end - 21sts
FIG. 1 Row 27. Purl
 Bat page 8 Bat page 9

HIND LEGS
Divide for Belly
Ref. Fig. 3
Ref. Fig. 3
With bat’s Back, WS, facing you, return to the 6 sts on the needle,
Row 28. dec) K5, k2tog PM on last st for Left Hind Leg Marker, k7 - slip those last
continue with Right Hind Leg as follows:
7 sts off the right hand needle and onto a safety pin for 7 Belly sts, k2tog PM on
last st for Right Hind Leg Marker, k5 to end - 2 sets 6 sts Row 1. WS) inc) Cast on 7 sts for Right Inner Hind Leg, p7, p2tog, p4 to end of
row - 12sts
6 RIGHT LEG 7 BELLY 6 LEFT LEG Continue working on 12 Right Hind Leg sts as follows:
STITCHES STITCHES STITCHES Rows 2-9. Work eight rows stocking stitch
*Row 10. dec) [K2tog, k3] twice, k2tog - 9sts
Rows 11-13. Work three rows stocking stitch
Row 14. dec) [K2tog, k1] three times - 6sts
Rows 15-17. Work three rows stocking stitch
First Claw
Row 18. K2, Turn (flip work over so purl-side faces)
Row 19. P2, Turn
Row 20. K2, Turn
Row 21. dec) P2tog, Fasten off.
Second Claw
Rejoin yarn to 4 sts on knitting needle
FIG. 3
Row 22. ***K2, Turn (flip work over so purl-side faces)
Row 23. P2, Turn
Row 24. K2, Turn
Row 25. dec) P2tog, Fasten off.****
Third Claw
Rejoin yarn to 2 sts on knitting needle
Repeat from *** to **** for final claw, for a total of 3 claws.**
 Bat page 10 Bat page 11

JOIN HIND LEG

SEAM - JOINING
DOTTED LINES

LEFT
HIND LEG
STITCHES

FIG. 4
Ref. Fig. 4
FIG. 5 FIG. 6
WS facing, return to the remaining 6 sts on the knitting needle,
continue with Left Hind Leg as follows:

Row 1. WS) Purl Join Hind Leg Seams

Row 2. inc) Cast on 7 sts for Left Inner Hind Leg, k7, k2tog, k4 to end of row - 12sts Ref. Figs. 5 & 6
Continue working on 12 Left Hind Leg sts as follows: 1. Working on one leg at a time, WS together, fold row ends so that the row ends
Rows 3-9. Beginning with a purl row work seven rows stocking stitch meet and the corner of the cast-on edge for inner hind leg matches the Hind Leg
Complete as Right Hind Leg from * to **. Marker
2. Mattress stitch the row ends to form the Hind Leg Seam then flatten the foot so
Complete the Feet
that the claws splay out a little.
Ref. Fig. 5
3. Work a small stitch or two to close off the seam at the claw end of the leg but
1. Using a yarn sewing needle, weave in the yarn ends on all of the claws. You can use the
leave the seam at the top of the leg/ at the inner leg cast-on edge, open.
yarn to shape and strengthen them by sewing back and forth through the claws.
4. Remove both Hind Leg Markers.
2. Then take a needle and matching sewing thread and do the same as with the yarn,
sewing back and forth through the claws and around them to build up their shape and
strength.
 Bat page 12 Bat page 13

BELLY HEAD SEAMS

Return to the 7 Belly sts that are held on the safety pin Join Head Back Seams
Slip onto a knitting needle ready to purl across, rejoin yarn AB and continue as Ref. Fig. 7 (before carrying on with this seam, if you choose to add toy safety eyes see
follows: Page 20 first)
Rows 1-7. Beginning with a purl row work seven rows stocking stitch Working on one side at a time, RS together, match the head back row ends to the
PM on first and last stitch of last purl row for left and right Belly Markers head back cast-off edge. Work back stitch to join those edges together.
Row 8. inc) K2, kfb, k1, kfb, k2 - 9sts Turn out to right side.
Rows 9 & 11. Purl
Join Snout Seam
Row 10. inc) K2, kfb, k3, kfb, k2 - 11sts
Ref. Fig. 8
Row 12. inc) K2, kfb, k5, kfb, k2 - 13sts
WS together, fold the Snout Cast-On Edge in half and mattress stitch to join the
Work short rows to shape Belly two halves so joining Snout Front Seam. Match Left and Right Muzzle Markers,
Short Row 1 P12, W+Tp hold together and work mattress stitch to join the row ends from the markers to
Short Row 2 K11, W+Tk the Snout Seam Front Seam.
Short Row 3 P10, W+Tp Remove one of the Muzzle Markers.
Short Row 4 K9, W+Tk
COMPLETED HEAD BACK SEAM
Short Row 5 P8, W+Tp
Short Row 6 K7, W+Tk
Short Row 7 Purl 10 sts to end of row

Rows 13-20. Work eight rows stocking stitch

Row 21. inc) K2, kfb, k7, kfb, k2 - 15sts
Rows 22 & 24. Purl
JOIN DOTTED LINES
Row 23. dec) [K1, k2tog] five times - 10sts
(PLACED RS TOGETHER)
Row 25. dec) [K2tog] five times - 5sts
JOIN TWO SIDES
Row 26. Purl OF THE
SNOUT SEAM
Row 27. dec) K2tog, k1, k2tog - 3sts
AS DOTTED LINE
Row 28. dec) P3tog, fasten off by cutting the yarn and passing the end through SHOWS
the last stitch, pull to knot for Belly Point.

FIG. 7 FIG. 8
 Bat page 14 Bat page 15

Join the Fastened-Off Belly Point to the Snout Seam

Ref. Figs. 9 & 10
1. WS together, bring the fastened-off belly point up against the bottom of the Snout
TO JOIN THE BELLY POINT
TO THE SNOUT SEAM JOIN Seam at the Muzzle Marker and work a stitch or two to hold in place.
A TO B AND HOLD B Remove the Muzzle Marker
TOGETHER WITH A
2. Then, working on one side at a time, match the Belly Marker to the start of the cast-
STITCH OR TWO A
on for the inner hind leg, join the belly row ends before the marker to that inner hind
leg cast-on edge.
Remove both Belly Markers

TO JOIN THE CAST ON

EDGE FROM INNER HIND
LEG TO THE ROW ENDS
BEFORE BELLY MARKER

FIG. 9

FIG. 10
Ref. Fig. 11 & 12
3. Stuff the head and body through the side before completing the seams that join
back to belly with mattress stitch
 Bat page 16 Bat page 17

*OPTIONAL FORELEGS (*see note at the start of the pattern on page 2)

The Forelegs are knitted independently and sewn onto the body later
Make 2 alike
JOIN 2 SETS OF DOTTED LINES TO JOIN
With yarn A cast on 5 sts.
BACK TO BELLY AT SIDE SEAMS
Row 1. inc) K2, kfb, k2 - 6sts
Rows 2 & 4. Purl
Row 3. inc) K1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1 – 8sts
Row 5. inc) K2, kfb, k2, kfb, k2 – 10sts
Rows 6-11. Beginning with a purl row work six rows stocking stitch
Row 12. dec) P1, p2tog, p4, p2tog, p1 - 8sts
Rows 13 & 15. Knit
Row 14. dec) P1, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p1 - 6sts
Row 16. dec) P1, p2tog twice, p1 - 4sts
Row 17. Knit
FIG.11
i-cord Rounds: Now if you are familiar with double pointed needles (dpns) then switch
to those and work 10 rounds of i-cord on 4sts
IF NOT FOLLOW THE NEXT FEW ROWS TO ‡
Have RS/ knit-side facing at all time
1st i-cord row RS facing, with the 4 sts on the needle in your right hand, slip the 4 sts off
the right hand needle onto the left hand needle - keeping RS/ knit-side facing you and the
working yarn pulled behind the work, knit 4
*Then, without turning the work so RS facing continue as follows:
i-cord row 2 Slip the 4 sts off the RH needle onto the LH needle, knit 4 - 4sts**
Repeat from * to ** eight times ‡. Turn work over to purl-side:
Claws
Claw 1, Row 1. WS) inc) *Cast on 4 sts - 8sts
Claw 1, Row 2. WS) dec) Cast off those 4 sts then cast off very next stitch - 3sts
Place stitch that’s on the RH needle to LH needle**
Claws 2, 3, & 4. Repeat from * to ** three times. Cut yarn and fasten off the remaining stitch
FIG.12 (don’t worry about the holes).
 Bat page 18 Bat page 19

EARS Cut yarn A, join yarn B, continues as follows:

Ref. Fig. 13 Row 12. dec) P2tog then without turning the work, pick up and purl 8 sts all along the
The Ears are knitted independently and sewn onto the body left inner ear row ends to the cast on edge from the beginning of the ear - 9sts
Right Ear Row 13. Knit
With yarn A cast on 12 sts Cast off all 9 sts purl-wise for Left Inner Ear Edge.
Row 1. Purl Weave in all ends neatly leaving some long tail ends for joining ears to head.
Row 2. dec) K4, skpo, k2tog, k4 - 10sts
Rows 3, 5, 7 & 9. Purl
Row 4. dec) K3, skpo, k2tog, k2 - 8sts
Row 6. dec) K2, skpo, k2tog, k2 - 6sts
Row 8. dec) K1, skpo, k2tog, k1 - 4sts
Row 10. dec) Skpo, k2tog - 2sts
Row 11. Purl
Cut yarn A, join yarn B, continues as follows:
Row 12. dec) K2tog then without turning the work, pick up and knit 8 sts all
FIG.13
along the right inner ear row ends to the cast on edge from the beginning of the
ear - 9sts Join Ears to Head
Row 13. Purl Ref. Fig. 14
Cast off all 9 sts for Right Inner Ear Edge. Place the ears against the sides of the head and sew in place with neat over-sew
Weave in all ends neatly. stitches, the WS of the knitted ear become inner ear.

Left Ear
With yarn A cast on 12 sts
Rows 1, 3, 5, 7 & 9. Knit
Row 2. dec) P4, p2tog twice, p4 - 10sts
Row 4. dec) P3, p2tog twice, p2 - 8sts
Row 6. dec) P2, p2tog twice, p2 - 6sts
Row 8. dec) P1, p2tog twice, p1 - 4sts
Row 10. dec) P2tog twice - 2sts
Row 11. Knit
FIG.14
 Bat page 20 Bat page 21

EYES NOSE FEATURES

Ref. Figs. 15 & 16 Ref. Fig. 17
To create a space for you to be able to push and glue the toy eyes in place simply With yarn B, embroider a few small stitches for nostrils and a straight line for a
work a few stitches to join the eye space whilst still keeping the brow shape. mouth, add a little dark low-light detail into the nostril with darker thread

WORK A FEW STRAIGHT STITCHES

TO JOIN THE EYE SPACE UNDER
THE EYE SHAPING, TO CREATE A
PLACE INTO WHICH THE TOY EYE
WILL BE GLUED IN PLACE

FIG. 15
Push the eyes into the new eye seam and
glue in place.
NOTE: If you want to use toy eyes with
backings then you’ll need to leave the
Head Seam open, add the eyes, then close
the seam .

FIG. 17

FIG. 16
 Bat page 22 Bat page 23

Neaten the Forelegs and Join to the Body

Ref. Figs. 18, 19 & 20
1. Using a yarn sewing needle, weave in the yarn ends on all of the claws, at the same
time close any holes - you can use the yarn to shape and strengthen them by sewing
back and forth through the claws.
2. Then take a needle and matching sewing thread and do the same as with the yarn,
sewing back and forth through the claws and around them to build up their shape and
strength.
3. Working on one side at a time, place the top of the foreleg against the body near the
Foreleg Placement Marker and join the cast-on edge to the body by over-sewing in
place. FIG. 19
THE FORELEG SEAM
Remove both Foreleg Placement Markers. SITS AT THE BACK
OF THE FORELEG

BEFORE AFTER 4. Mattress stitch the remainder of the foreleg from where you’ve joined to the
shoulder to where you started the i-cord tube.

DON’T WORRY IF YOU THINK THE

FORELEGS FEEL A LITTLE FLIMSY, THEY
WILL BE STRENGTHENED WHEN THEY
ARE SEWN ONTO THE WINGS

FIG. 18

FIG. 20
 Bat page 24 Bat page 25

WINGS TEMPLATE WINGS

Ref. Figs. 21, 22, 24, 25 & 26
1. Use the Template to cut one on the fold from the felt
CUT ONE ON
2. Open out the felt and place the bat onto the line that the fold created
THE FOLD
3. Pinch up each furrow, about 2mm, as directed by the four diagonal straight lines on
the template, work four more on the other half
4. Pin in place then stitch along each furrow to create ridges
5. Lay the bat’s body onto the centre fold of the wings and attach the top of the centre
fold with a few stitches
6. Carefully join the forelegs to the wings - you may wish to pin in place first
FOLD

7. Finally join the inner claw to the wing tips

FIG. 23 ATTACH THE

WINGS TO THE
BODY BACK WITH
A FEW SMALL
STITCHES

FIG. 21 FIG. 22
 Bat page 26 `Bat page 27

WORK SMALL, DISCREET

STITCHES TO JOIN THE
FORELEGS TO THE WINGS

FIG. 24

FIG. 26

WORK SMALL STITCHES

TO JOIN THE INNER
CLAWS TO THE WING TIPS

FIG. 25
 Bat page 28 Bat page 29

If you don’t want the Forelegs then continue with Wings as follows:
Ref. Figs. 27 & 28
1. Working on one side of the felt wing at a time, pinch up a furrow, about 2mm, in a
slightly curved line as directed by the top line on the template below
2. Pin in place in necessary then stitch along each furrow to create one long ridge
3. With yarn B cast on 4 sts and work 2 x two inch long i-cords either using two dpns
or the single-pointed needles method on Page 17, just working on the 4 sts. Cast off.
4. Attach each i-cord by working a few stitches to one end of the i-cord joining it to a
part of the top wing furrow as shown in Fig. 27. Attach the other end of the i-cord to
the side of the body as shown - try to make it look as seamless as possible, remember
you can brush the mohair to smudge it in/ blend it a bit.
5. Once both sides of the wings are attached to the two i-cords - one on each side of
the body, you can join the wings to the back of the neck and at the feet as on Page 26.

FIG. 27
Fangs
Ref. Fig. 30
1. If you’d like fangs and claws simply thread up some white sewing cotton or
embroidery thread (single stand) and work small stitches for fangs, slightly larger
ones for the claws.

You might like to see it visually here:

FIG. 28
https://tinyurl.com/vjdfn6bt
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