1HAND
1HAND
By
Ted R. Lingle
Fourth Edition
ISBN 1-882552-00-8
TABLE OF CONTENTS
About the Author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . i Section Four: Attribute Scaling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ii A Ranking and Rating System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ii Spider Diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Glossary of Technical Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . iii Cupping Forms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . iv SCAA Cupping Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Natural Source of Coffee’s Flavor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . iv SCAA Cupping Protocols . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Sensory Evaluation of Coffee’s Flavor . . . . . . . . . . . . iv
Organization of the Handbook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . v Diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Coffee Attribute Scaling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Section One: Evaluation of Coffee’s Flavor . . . . . . . . . . 1 Cupping Evaluation:
Stage I: Coffee Olfaction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Grading Form – Single Sample . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Classifying Aromatic Components SCAA Cupping Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
According to Source . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Bouquet: An Aromatic profile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Appendix I - Prescreening Questionnaire . . . . . . . 33
Olfaction Terminology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Appendix II - Prescreening Flavor
Stage II: Coffee Gustation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Recognition Tests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Four Basic Tastes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Six Primary Coffee Taste Sensations . . . . . . . . . 6 Appendix III - Aroma Recognition Tests . . . . . . . . 38
Dark-Roast Coffees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Coffee Acidity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Gustation Terminology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
i
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS FOREWARD
The Coffee Cupper’s Handbook evolved into a project The basic difficulty in coffee flavor terminology is
far better that I originally had envisioned, largely due to inherent in our language. Although many words describe
the efforts of three people: Marvin Golden, Golden Food the sensation of sight, sound, and touch, few words describe
and Beverage in Boston, whose steadfast insistence on the the sensations of smell and taste. Flavor terminology is
importance of coffee’s aromatic properties prompted me further complicated by the misuse of related words such
to expand a simple treatise on coffee’s tastes; Sandy Sabo, as aroma, odor, smell, fragrance, taste, flavor, and body,
the Communications Director of the Coffee Development which are all applied indiscriminately in conversation and
Group in Washington, DC, whose skills as a writer writing.
transformed wordy, awkward passages into clear, concise Resolution of the problem requires the development of
prose; and Phyllis Baldenhofer, Coffee, Tea, and Spice in a comprehensive and universally understood coffee flavor
San Francisco, whose editorial skills and uncompromising language to promote meaningful and accurate descriptions
quest for excellence pushed, pulled, and prodded a confused of the aromatic and taste properties of the chemical
array of terms into a clear arrangement of concepts. I am compounds present in the coffee brew. A coffee flavor
indebted to these three coffee friends for their time, energy, language must reflect both the trade and lay terminology
and efforts. used by non-chemists for example, green coffee growers,
The Promotion Fund of the International Coffee importers, brokers, buyers, and roasters as well as the
Organization, through the support of the activities of the precise scientific terminology of chemists, chemical
Coffee Development Group, made this work possible. I engineers, food technologists, and flavorists.
would like to thank Alexandre Beltrao and ICO Board of A coffee flavor language should also reflect the nature
Management for their vision and resolve to develop coffee of the stimulus that evokes the terminology. Gases, liquids,
promotion campaigns that touch upon diverse coffee industry and solids all require a set of terms that best depicts their
segments beyond the conventional retail supermarkets.
individual contributions to a product’s unique flavor. If
The Specialty Coffee Association of America is carrying
something does not become a gas, we cannot smell it. If
this work forward. I would like to thank Dan Cox and the
something does not become a liquid, we can not taste it.
Board of Directors of SCAA for their willingness to print and
And those things that do evaporate or dissolve, we can only
distribute the first edition of the Coffee Cupper’s Handbook
feel in our mouths. Thus aroma, taste, and mouthfeel are
as an educational tool for their membership. It is my hope
separate components of any comprehensive flavor language
that the specialty segment will grow into the “flagship” of
the entire coffee industry and will help the other industry and must be given their own terminology.
segments chart a new course toward an expanding coffee The place to begin addressing the problems of flavor
market. terminology is the cupping table, among people within the
Although technical in nature, the Coffee Cupper’s industry. When several cuppers sense the aromatic and
Handbook was written as a sales and marketing tool. In order taste properties of the same brew at the same time, they
to promote specialty coffee, the industry needs to develop can begin to agree on the vocabulary pertinent to the flavor
a language that accurately portrays the flavor differences being experienced, leading to effective communication of
of coffees unique to special origins. The terminology used aroma, taste, and body impressions. When translating this
needs to be a scientific one, and place to learn the precise experience into other languages, tradition, culture, and
meaning of each new term is at the cupping table. The common experiences must also be taken into consideration
Handbook was written as the beginning step. if the communication is to be meaningful.
Since its first publication in 1985, the Coffee Cupper’s The Coffee Cupper’s Handbook is designed to initiate
Handbook has been revised through several editions and discussion on the most appropriate and descriptive
has been translated into three languages. It has served as terminology for the language of coffee flavors. It does not
the basis for cupping training for thousands of people in the presume to be the definitive text.
coffee industry. The newly revised Fourth Edition represents
the on-going work of hundreds of coffee professionals
for more than a decade. I will be forever grateful for
their commitment to understanding and defining coffee
excellence.
ii
GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL TERMS
(Words that are starred* in text appear below.)
Absorbing The assimilation of one substance Equilibrium A state of natural balance in which
into another in which there is a changes in one condition offset
transformation or loss of identity of the (counter-balance) equal but opposite
substance taken in. changes (reactions) in other
conditions.
Acidity A measure of the acid content of a
fluid, with the relative strength (pH) Hydrolysis A chemical change in both organic
of the acid quantified by the number and inorganic compounds brought
of protons (hydrogen ions) released. about by the action of water.
Adsorbing The adhesion of an extremely thin Inorganic Chemical compounds that do not
layer of molecules (as gases, liquids, contain carbon atoms, eg.-table salt
or solids) to the surface of liquid or (NaC1).
solid bodies with which they come in
contact. Liquoring The process that separates soluble
matter from its carrying medium by
Aerate To change into a gaseous state by treatment with a liquid substance.
mixing with air.
Organic Chemical compounds that contain
Amino Acid An organic acid containing nitrogen- carbon atoms, such as sugar (CH2O6).
hydrogen (NH2) molecule that forms
chemically linked chains, which are Oxidation A chemical change in both organic
the basic unit of proteins. and inorganic compounds brought
about by the action of oxygen.
Brew Colloids
Colloids formed by different
combinations of oil and sediment Pyrolysis A chemical change in an organic
suspended in brewed coffee; they substances brought about by the action
give texture to the mouthfeel of coffee of heat.
and contribute to the overall flavor
by absorbing and adsorbing other Volatile Readily vaporized at moderate heat
chemical compounds. levels. Characterized by liquids
that quickly evaporate at room
Colloids A state of suspension in which non- temperature.
dissolved, micro-sized particles are
dispersed throughout a liquid. The
particles are small enough to pass
through most coarse filtering systems
and do not settle out under the force of
gravity.
Dry Distillation
A process in which intense heat
vaporizes and separates various
chemical compounds bound in solid
matter; also known as destructive
distillation.
iii
INTRODUCTION occurring organic and inorganic compounds.
Coffee flavor is the simultaneous sensation in the
Although scientific knowledge about coffee has advanced palate of aroma and taste. Coffee aroma is composed of
during the past 25 years, much about coffee’s flavor still the gaseous natural chemical components of roasted coffee
remains a mystery. Coffee’s distinctive flavor is certainly beans, which escape as gases after the coffee beans are
the principal reason for its high acceptability and enjoyment ground, and as vapors after the coffee grounds are brewed.
throughout the world. The difficulty in establishing the Coffee taste is composed of the water soluble organic and
nature of this unique and popular flavor has both intrigued inorganic natural chemical components of roasted and
and frustrated flavor chemists for a long time. ground coffee beans, which are extracted as liquids during
Part of the problem in understanding coffee’s flavor stems the brewing process.
from its complexity. More that 400 organic* and inorganic* The palate records the sensations of aroma through
chemical compounds are present in trace amounts, and not olfactory cells located on the nasal membrane. The
one can be regarded as the primary component in coffee’s process of sensing odors is called olfaction, which is the
flavor. In fact, many of the chemical components, when simultaneous sensation of thousands of distinct gaseous
separated and concentrated, have highly objectionable compounds. The nasal membrane has a capacity to sense
flavors. Also, many of the natural components of coffee’s not only the types of compounds present but also their
flavor are unstable at room temperature, either rapidly intensity. It interprets these aromatic sensations as unique
evaporating or recombining with other components to form patterns, and the mind records them as distinct odors.
new flavor compounds. The palate records the sensations of taste through
Understanding coffee’s flavor is further complicated by buds located on the tongue. The process of sensing taste
the intricate method in which the human palate responds is called gustation, which is the simultaneous sensation
to multiple sensations. Our natural ability to perceive of four basic tastes: sweet, salt, sour, and bitter. Through
flavor comes from the simultaneous sensations of aroma a process called taste modulation, these basic taste
and taste. Millions of olfactory cells and thousands of taste sensations interact with one another to produce the wide
buds record the stimulations, and then transmit the message range of taste experiences.
through hundreds of nerve fibers to the brain. While the Residues remaining in the palate that have not
general process of flavor recognition is understood, the vaporized or dissolved create a sense of body, which is a
precise mechanisms that cause the stimulations in the relative comparison of the mouthfeel of the sensation to a
limbic system in our brains, particularly olfaction, remain standard substance, usually water.
a mystery. Consequently, neither the pleasing nor the
displeasing aspects of coffee’s flavor are fully understood. SENSORY EVALUATION OF COFFEE’S FLAVOR
In spite of the complexity of the problem, we know enough Sensory evaluation of coffee’s flavor falls into three
about coffee’s flavor to develop a simple, non-technical stages: olfaction, gustation, and mouthfeel.
method for making a systematic sensory evaluation. This
handbook offers a method for explaining and describing Olfaction (If something does not become a gas, we
the sensory effects of the basic stimulations in the palate cannot smell it.)
of coffee’s aroma, taste, and body. Stage I. Olfaction, is the sensory evaluation of the volatile
organic* matter either occurring naturally or created in
NATURAL SOURCE OF COFFEE’S FLAVOR coffee beans by the roasting process. The relative volatility
All of the chemical compounds that contribute to of the various chemical compounds (they change from a
coffee’s flavor evolve naturally. They are created as the liquid to a gas at different temperatures) further divides
coffee shrub converts water and carbon dioxide into sugar coffee aromas into four categories.
through photosynthesis. With the assistance of various 1. Dry aroma – Usually referred to as fragrance, it is
mineral elements pulled from the soil, the coffee shrub composed of the chemical compounds that are normally
metabolizes the plant sugars it has created, either using gases at room temperature or slightly warmer.
them for sustenance and growth, or storing them in its 2. Cup aroma – Usually referred to as aroma when it is
seeds (beans) for germination. Man interrupts this natural derived from the vapors leaving the surface of the brew.
process by harvesting and drying the seeds, heating and 3. Nose-derived – From the vapors, trapped by adhesion
crushing them, and extracting their chemical components to liquids or solids in the brew, that is released as the
with hot water. The resulting coffee beverage has flavor, coffee is taken into the mouth.
body, and color, derived from a complex set of naturally 4. Aftertaste – The result of vapors developing from the
iv
coffee residue remaining on the palate after the coffee has nerve endings located on the tongue, gums, and hard and
been swallowed. soft palates. In the sensory evaluation of coffee, these
The latter three categories are composed of the chemical nerve endings sense the beverage’s viscosity and oiliness,
compounds that are normally gases at the elevated which collectively are known as body.
temperatures associated with the brewing process. The viscosity, or thickness relative to water, is a function
There are four distinct points at which to evaluate the of the amount of solid material suspended in the brew.
aromatic properties of the coffee; (1) the fragrance from This solid material is principally composed of microscopic
the roasted and ground coffee beans; (2) the aroma; (3) the particles of bean fiber that are not filtered out during the
nose; and, (4) the aftertaste of the coffee brew. brewing process.
Each individual coffee has its own pattern of aromatic The oiliness, or fat content, is a function of the amount
properties, or bouquet. This unique pattern, when of lipids (fats, oils, and waxes) in the coffee. At room
combined with coffee’s particular taste modulation, creates temperature, these compounds are present in the green
the specific flavor profile of an individual coffee. Olfaction, coffee bean as fats (oils in solid form). In the roasted
therefore is the primary sensory means of differentiating coffee, the compounds are present in liquid form. These
coffees of similar origins from one another. oils are extracted from roasted and ground coffee during
Gustation (If something does not become a liquid, we the brewing process and remain undissolved, separating
cannot taste it.) from the brew to coalesce as an oily residue on the surface
of the beverage.
Stage II. Gustation, is the sensory evaluation of the water
soluble matter extracted from the coffee grounds during ORGANIZATION OF THE HANDBOOK
the brewing process. This matter consists of organic* and
inorganic* chemical compounds. The organic matter in Section One of this handbook describes olfaction,
coffee can simplistically be describe as a variety of sugars, gustation, and mouthfeel, as well as the primary chemical
vegetable oils and fruit acids, commonly found in most components of coffee’s flavor. For example, the volatile
vegetables, fruits, and nuts, whose taste sensations range (gaseous) ketones and aldehydes are discussed in terms
from slightly sweet to highly sour. Coffee also contains of the aromatic contribution they make to coffee olfaction.
organic compounds known as alkaloids (primarily caffeine) Similarly, the nonvolatile (liquid) organic acids are
and esters (mainly chlorogenic acid), which impart a bitter discussed in terms of the taste contribution they make to
taste sensation. The inorganic matter can simplistically coffee gustation. Finally, the undissloved liquid and solid
be described as mineral salts (principally mineral oxides, constituents are examined in the context of their overall
particularly potassium), which impart a salt-like taste contributions to the coffee’s mouthfeel.
sensation, ranging from sweet to astringent or soapy to Section Two enumerates the taints and faults that
metallic, depending on the concentration. interfere with the flavor of coffee. Some of these have their
source in various chemical reactions that occur in the coffee
The primary basic taste sensations in the gustation of
beans during the process of harvesting, drying, storing,
coffee are sweet, sour, and salt. The function of the bitter
roasting, and brewing. Others occur from contamination
sensation serves only to modify or enhance the impression
by external agents.
of the other three, except for low-grade or darkly roasted
Section Three of the handbook lists the sequential
coffees in which bitter becomes the dominant taste.
steps involved in coffee cupping, from sample preparation
Taste modulation is the process by which the perception
through the assessment of aroma, taste, and body.
of one basic taste is altered by the relative strength of one
Section Four delineates various forms of charts and
or more of the other basic tastes. For example, adding salt
graphs that can be used in a systematic way of recording the
to tomato juice increases the juice’s perceptible sweetness.
sensory assessments for future reference and comparisons.
In the sensory evaluation of coffee, modulation of the three
For the inexperienced coffee cupper, the Handbook
basic tastes leads to six primary coffee tastes. For this
is designed to create the general categories in which
reason, coffees can be grouped into broad categories on
different coffees may be grouped on the basis of similar
the basis of similar tastes, which can also be related in a
tastes. It offers the experienced cupper a vocabulary for
general way to their origins.
differentiation among coffees of similar flavor based on
Mouthfeel (And those things that do not evaporate or their aromatic properties. For everyone, it provides the
dissolve, we can only feel in our mouths.) scientific frame-work for creating a meaningful vocabulary
Stage III. Mouthfeel, is the sensory evaluation of the for differentiating coffee’s flavor.
tactile sensations on the palate. The sense organs are free
v
SECTION ONE: When two or more olfactory stimuli are presented at the
EVALUATION OF COFFEE’S FLAVOR same time, which is normally the case with food products,
one of six results may occur:
STAGE I: COFFEE OLFACTION • A single new odor, blending the characteristic of each,
(If something does not become a gas, we can not smell it) may be perceived.
• When two dissimilar odors are presented, both odors
Olfaction is the smell sense whose receptors, situated in
may be noted, first one and then another being the center
the nasal membrane, are stimulated by volatile chemical
of attention.
compounds that usually contain hydrogen, carbon,
nitrogen, oxygen, or sulfur. These come into contact with • The odors may be smelled alternately.
receptors when they are inhaled as gases by sniffing, or • The odors may be experienced simultaneously but
exhaled as vapors by swallowing. The nasal membrane can separately.
sense thousands of distinct odors, with the average person • One odor may mask another.
capable of differentiating 2,000 to 4,000 odors. • One odor may neutralize the other.
During normal breathing, air does not reach the olfactory
In coffee, all of the above take place simultaneously,
membranes. Sniffing or swallowing, however, forces air up
which is why coffee maintains a unique aromatic character
the nasal passages through a series of membranes where
reminiscent of other familiar natural substances.
the odorous molecules are retained. The olfactory region
While no primary odor sensations exist, specific odor
contains basa cells, sustentacular (supporting) cells, and
sensations can be grouped into generic categories. These
sensory (olfactory) cells. Human beings have an estimated
categories are based on the properties of the specific
10 to 20 million such receptors.
compound creating the odor sensation, such as its molecular
Olfactory acuity varies widely and can be influenced
weight, form, and polarity. The molecule structure itself
by external factors, such as a person’s anatomy, physiology,
evokes a common pattern in the intensity, type, and variety
and psychology. The result is that the same coffee, served
of the stimulation received by the olfactory receptors.
at the same time, will exhibit slightly different aromatic
In developing generic categories, the aromatic
characteristics to different people. Similarly, the same
compounds in coffee are classified by two methods. The
coffees will show slightly different characteristics when
first one separates the various components based on their
served to the same person at different times. Generally
source. Once classified by source, the second method
speaking, coffee cuppers rely on a highly developed odor
sorts the components based on the similarity of molecular
memory created through years of experience, rather than
structure, principally by size (molecular weight). The result
on hypersensitivity to particular aromatic stimulations.
is a simple set of nine categories that describes the overall
Olfactory region aromatic profile of coffee.
Respiratory region
Classifying Aromatic Components
According to Source
Based on their source, aromatic components can be
divided into three sets:
GASES VAPORS
SET I
ENZYMATIC BY-PRODUCTS
Soft palate
(most volatile aromatics)
This set contains aromatic compounds that are the
result of enzyme reactions occurring in the coffee bean
Trachea while it is a living organism. Principally composed of esters
and aldehydes, it is the most volatile set and is most often
found in the dry aroma of freshly ground coffee. Set I can
Esophagus
be further separated into three basic categories: flowery,
Chemical compounds reach the olfactory region as gases fruity, and herby.
when sniffing occurs and as vapors when swallowing occurs.
1
A. Flowery Therefore, standard-roast coffees tend to have a
1. Floral caramelly character. Further heating reduces the caramel
a. Sweetly floral (jasmine, arnica, lavender, coffee into pyrazine compounds, so full-roasted coffees may have
blossom) a chocolaty character. Heating beyond this point begins
b. Sweetly herbal (wintergreen, tea rose) to burn up the sugar browning by-products, so Set II is no
2. Fragrant longer the distinctive set in dark-roasted coffees.
a. Sweetly spicy (cardamom, cinnamon,
sandalwood) A. Nutty (most common in light roast coffees)
b. Carvone-like (caraway, dill, spearmint) 1. Nutty (roasted nut-like)
c. Sweetly camphoric (sweet basil, tarragon, a. Almond-like
coriander seeds) b. Peanut-like
d. Anise-like (anise, fennel, basil) c. Walnut-like
B. Fruity 2. Malty (toasted cereal grain-like)
1. Citrus-like a. Basmati rice
a. Sweet citrus (lemon, orange, tangerine) b. Barley-like
b. Dry citrus (grapes, apples, olives) c. Corn-like
2. Berry-type d. Roasted coffee
a. Sweet berry-like (cherry, apricot, strawberry, e. Toast
date) B. Caramelly (most common in standard roast coffees)
b. Dry berry-like (cranberry, blackberry, 1. Candy-like
boysenberry) a. Toffee-like (with butter)
C. Herby b. Licorice-like (with spices)
1. Alliaceous c. Taffy-like (with salt)
a. Onion-like (onion, chive) d. Pralines-like (with nuts)
b. Garlic-like (garlic, leek, asafetida) e. Hazelnut-like
2. Leguminous 2. Syrup-type
a. Vegetable-like (garden peas, spinach, cabbage) a. Molasses-like
b. Parsley-like (parsley, alfalfa, silage, cucumber) b. Maple syrup-like
c. Honey-like
SET II C. Chocolaty (most common in full roast coffees)
SUGAR BROWNING BY-PRODUCTS 1. Chocolate-type (with bitters)
(moderately volatile aromatics) a. Baker’s chocolate-like
Composed of aromatic compounds that are the result b. Dutch chocolate-like
of the sugar browning (caramelization) reaction occurring c. Dark chocolate-like
during the roasting process, this set also divides into three 2. Vanilla-type (with butter)
basic categories: nutty, caramelly, and chocolaty. a. Swiss chocolate-like
Set II is moderately volatile, and it is found in both the a. Custard-like
cup aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the nose (vapors) c. Butter-like
of the coffee brew as it is swallowed. This set of aromatics
(aldehydes, ketones, sugar carbonyl compounds, and SET III
pyrazine compounds) combine with the taste characteristics DRY DISTILLATION BY-PRODUCTS
to create the principal flavor attributes of each type of (least volatile aromatics)
coffee bean. They are the primary means of distinguishing
Aromatic compounds that result from the dry
one coffee of similar origin from another.
distillation* (burning) reaction of bean fiber comprise
The presence of these sugar-browning by-products
Set III. This set, principally composed of heterocyclic
depends entirely on the roasting process. Because the
compounds, nitriles, and hydrocarbons, is the least volatile
aldehydes and ketones generally develop first, light-
and is most often found in the vapors (aftertaste) of freshly
roasted coffee with have a pronounced nutty character. As
brewed coffee. The set contains three basic categories:
the roasting process continues, the sugar molecules further
turpeny, spicy, and carbony.
condense into a brown mass known as caramel, which
contains heterocyclic compounds, sulfur compounds, and
alcohols.
2
A. Turpeny FRAGRANCE
1. Resinous
a. Piney (pine sap, turpentine, hemlock bark, black When coffee beans are ground, the bean fiber is both
current stem-like) heated and ruptured. This allows the carbon dioxide
b. Balsamic (juniper, myrtle, chicory) gas (CO2) to escape. As it leaves, the CO2 extracts other
2. Medicinal organic materials, changing them into a gaseous state at
a. Cinoelic (oregano, rosemary, eucalyptus leaf) room temperature. These gasses, which are predominately
b. Camphoric (camphor, cubeb, achillea) esters, form the essence of coffee’s fragrance. Normally
B. Spicy the fragrance is sweet smelling, resembling some type
1. Warming of flower. In addition, the fragrance has some pungency,
a. Nutmeg-like (nutmeg, celery seed, cumin, cedar) similar in character to a sweet spice.
b. Pepper-like (black pepper, capsicum, ginger)
2. Pungent AROMA
a. Clove-like (clove bud, pimento, bay leaf) When ground coffee comes in contact with hot water,
b. Thyme-like (thyme, savory, horsemint) the heat from the water changes some of the organic
c. Bitter almond-like (bitter almond, peach kernel) material in the ground-up bean fiber from a liquid to a gas.
C. Carbony
These newly released gases – many of which are the larger
1. Smoky
molecular structure of esters, aldehydes, and ketones-form
a. Creosol-like (oil, tar, fat)
the essence of coffee’s aroma, the most complex mixture of
b. Smoke-like (pipe tobacco, nicotine)
gases in the overall bouquet.
2. Ashy
In general, the aroma is a mixture of fruity, herbal,
a. Burnt-like (burnt, scorched)
and nut-like scents. Although the pattern is unmistakably
b. Charred-like (charred, ashy)
coffee, fruity or herbal scents will usually dominate. Also,
if the coffee has picked up a taint or fault, the off-flavor
Bouquet: An Aromatic Profile
begins to become detectable in the aroma of the freshly
The total aromatic profile of coffee is defined as its brewed coffee.
bouquet. The bouquet is composed of four distinct parts:
Each of the bouquet’s four parts relates to one of
• Fragrance - The gases from the freshly two sets of aromatic compounds.
ground coffee.
• Aroma - The gases from the freshly brewed coffee.
• Nose - The vapors driven off as the coffee NOSE
is swallowed. When the coffee brew is slurped, or vigorously sprayed
• Aftertaste - The vapors remaining after the coffee toward the back of the palate, additional organic material,
is swallowed. (present in the brew in a liquid state), aerates and changes
into a gaseous state. Also, any gaseous material previously
When cupping coffee, evaluate the aromatic trapped in the liquid is immediately released. These
character of each distinct part. In describing the
vapors, which are mostly sugar carbonyl compounds, form
aromatic profile, which is the key to accurately
the essence of coffee’s nose.
portraying the overall flavor of a particular coffee,
give all four parts a descriptive term.
BOUQUET
SET II
SET I SET III
gases vapors
3
Because most of these compounds were formed by a Olfaction Terminology
caramelization of sugars present in the green coffee bean
during the roasting process, the character of the nose most Aftertaste The sensation of brewed coffee vapors,
often resembles other products created by caramelization ranging from chocolaty to carbony, spicy
of natural sugars. These sensations can range from various and turpeny, as they are released from
candies or syrups reminiscent of caramel, to roasted nuts, the residue remaining in the mouth after
to toasted cereal grains. The character of the nose depends swallowing.
primarily on the degree of roast given the green beans. Aroma The sensation of the gases released from
brewed coffee as they are inhaled through
AFTERTASTE the nose by sniffing. Ranges from fruity
When the coffee brew is swallowed – or in the case to herby to nutty.
of cupping, when swallowing is simulated by pumping the Bouquet The total aromatic profile of a coffee brew.
larynx to force air back into the nasal passages – some Created by the sensation of gases and
of the heavier organic material in the palate vaporizes. vapors on the olfactory membranes. The
This set of vapors forms the essence of coffee’s aftertaste; result of the volatile organic compounds
literally meaning the sensation perceived after the taste present in the fragrance, aroma, nose,
sensation has diminished. and aftertaste of the brew.
Because dry distillation* of the bean fiber forms many
Caramelly An aromatic sensation commonly found
of these heavier molecular components, they tend to have
in the nose of the coffee brew. Created
an aromatic character similar to wood or a wood by-product,
by moderately volatile sugar carbonyl
ranging from turpentine to charcoal. The vapors usually
compounds found in the vapors released
have a pungency associated with a seed or spice, and they
as coffee is swallowed. Reminiscent of
may have a note of bitterness, reminiscent of chocolate, due
sensations from candies or syrups.
to the formation of pyrazine compounds during roasting.
In selecting the four terms that most accurately describe Carbony An aromatic sensation commonly found in
its fragrance, aroma, nose, and aftertaste, one can define a the aftertaste of dark roast coffee brews.
coffee bouquet’s variety. The bouquet has one other aspect: Created by slightly volatile heterocyclic
intensity. The intensity is a measure of both the fullness compounds found in the vapors released
and the strength of the organic compounds making up the when the brew is swallowed. Reminiscent
aromatic profile. Bouquets that are both full and strong are of phenolic sensations similar to a creosol-
described as rich. Bouquets that are full but lack intensity like substance or pyridine sensations
are described as full. An incomplete bouquet that lacks similar to a burnt substance.
intensity is rounded, while flavors characterized by an Chocolaty An aromatic sensation commonly found
absence of any bouquet are described as flat. in the coffee brew’s aftertaste. Created by
Thus, the systematic description of the flavor of a moderately volatile pyrazine compounds
particular coffee – for example, Coffee AA – must include found in the vapors released after the
the description of the overall bouquet. The description of brew is swallowed. Reminiscent of either
Coffee AA would begin with a statement about the roast unsweetened chocolate or vanilla.
color of the sample, because the degree of roast is almost
as important as the origin of the coffee itself in developing Complexity A qualitative description of the gases and
its bouquet. vapors present in the fragrance, aroma,
Suppose that Coffee AA is taken to a Full City Roast. nose, and aftertaste of coffee’s bouquet,
The fragrance could be more spicy than floral, suggestive which create variety and contrast in the
of cardamom; the aroma could be more herbal than fruity, pattern of sensation on the olfactory
reminiscent of green peas; the nose would have a highly membranes.
pronounced caramelly and almond character; and the Flat A quantitative description of coffee’s
aftertaste would be distinctly spicy, almost like clove, with bouquet, denoting slightly perceptible
just a hint of a turpeny sensation reminiscent of mesquite- gases and vapors in the fragrance, aroma,
like smoke. In short, the bouquet of Coffee AA would be nose, and aftertaste.
marvelously complex.
4
Fragrance The sensation of the gases released from Rich A quantitative description of coffee’s
freshly roasted and ground coffee beans as bouquet, indicating that a complete set
aromatic compounds are inhaled through of gases and vapors is present at highly
the nose by sniffing. Ranges from sweetly pronounced intensities in the fragrance,
floral to sweetly spicy. aroma, nose, and aftertaste of the coffee.
Fruity An aromatic sensation commonly found Rounded A quantitative description of coffee’s
in the cup aroma of the coffee brew. bouquet, indicating that an incomplete
Created by highly volatile aldehydes and set of gases and vapors is moderately
esters that become gases at the elevated perceptible in the coffee’s fragrance,
temperatures of brewing. Noted as a sweet aroma, nose, and aftertaste.
sensation reminiscent of a citrus fruit, or Spicy An aromatic sensation commonly found
a tart sensation, reminiscent of a berry in brew’s aftertaste. Created by slightly
fruit. volatile hydrocarbon compounds found
Full A quantitative description of coffee’s in the vapor released after the brew
overall bouquet, denoting a complete set is swallowed. Produces sensations
of gases and vapors present at moderately reminiscent of wood-spice (cinnamon
pronounced intensities in the fragrance, bark) or wood-seed (clove bud).
aroma, nose, and aftertaste of the brew. Sweetly Floral An aromatic sensation commonly found
Herby An aromatic sensation commonly found in the fragrance of roasted and ground
in a brew’s cup aroma. Created by highly coffee beans. Created by highly volatile
volatile aldehydes and esters that become aldehydes and esters found in the gases
gases at the elevated temperatures of (principally carbon dioxide) that escape
brewing. Noted as either alliaceous- from the newly ruptured cells of the bean
type sensations reminiscent of an fiber. Reminiscent of a fragrant flower,
aromatic vegetable (onion) or legume- such as jasmine.
type sensations reminiscent of a green Sweetly Spicy An aromatic sensation commonly found
vegetable (green peas). in the fragrance of roasted and ground
Intensity A quantitative measure of the pungency coffee beans. Created by highly volatile
and relative strengths of the gases and aldehydes and esters found in the gases
vapors present in the bouquet coffee. (principally carbon dioxide) that escape
Malty An aromatic sensation normally found from the newly ruptured cells of the bean
in the nose of the brew. Created by fiber. Reminiscent of aromatic spices,
moderately volatile aldehydes and such as cardamom.
ketones found in the vapors as the brew is Turpeny An aromatic sensation commonly found
swallowed, producing sensations similar in the coffee brew’s aftertaste. Created by
to toasted cereal grains. slightly volatile hydrocarbon compounds
Nose The sensation of the vapors released from and nitriles found in the vapor released
brewed coffee as they are exhaled by the after the brew is swallowed. Reminiscent
movement of the larynx while swallowing. of resinous sensations (similar to
Ranges from caramelly to chocolaty to turpentine-like substances) or medicinal
turpeny. sensations (similar to camphor-like
substances).
Nutty An aromatic sensation commonly found
in the nose of the brew. Created by
moderately volatile aldehydes and ketones
found in the vapors released as the
brew is swallowed. Produces sensations
associated with many roasted nuts.
5
STAGE II: COFFEE GUSTATION Taste Sensation Chemical Compound Solubles %
(If something does not become a liquid, we cannot taste it.)
SWEET
Gustation is the taste sense whose receptors lie in the Carbohydrates Caramelized sugars 35.0
mucous membrane covering the tongue and whose stimuli Proteins Amino acid complexes 4.0
consist of soluble chemical compounds.
SALT
Mineral Oxides Potassium oxide 8.4
Four Basic Tastes
Phosphoric oxide 2.1
As a general rule, the tongue can detect four basic Calcium oxide 2.1
tastes: sweet, salt, sour, and bitter.
Magnesium oxide 0.5
Sweet Characterized by solutions of sugars, alcohols, Sodium oxide 0.5
lycols, and some acids. Perceived primarily by Other oxides 0.4
the fungiform papillae at the tip of the tongue.
SOUR
Salt. Characterized by solutions of chlorides, Novolatile Acids Caffeic acid 1.4
bromides, iodides, nitrates, and sulfates. Citric acid 1.0
Perceived by the fungiform and foliate papillae Malic acid 1.0
on the anterior sides of the tongue.
Tartaric acid 1.0
Sour. Characterized by solutions of tartaric, citric, BITTER
and malic acids. Perceived by the foliate and Alkaloids Caffeine 3.5
fungi-form papillae on the posterior sides of
Trigonelline 3.5
the tongue.
Nonvolatile Acids Quinic acid 1.4
Bitter. Characterized by solutions of quinine, caffeine, Esters Chlorogenic acid 13.0
and other alkaloids. Perceived primarily by the Phenols Phenolic complexes 5.0
circumvallate papillae at the back of the tongue.
The coffee taste sensation combines all four of these
basic tastes. Three of them – sweet, salt, and sour – tend
to dominate the overall taste sensation, primarily because
the compounds that create them are present in the greatest
quantities.
Although the term bitter is popularly used to describe
poor coffee tastes, coffee’s bitterness is a taste sensation
Bitter unique to coffee, similar to the effects of tannins in red
wines or hops in beer. Using bitter as a solely negative
attribute of coffee’s taste is technically incorrect. Bitterness
Sour is often a positive taste contributor, such as in tea, red
wines, and beer.
Salt Six Primary Coffee Taste Sensations
Through the process called taste modulation, the basic
Sweet taste sensations interact with one another, depending
on the relative strength of each. In coffee gustation, six
combinations can occur:
Different areas on the tongue have varying degrees of
sensitivity to the four basic tastes. 1. Acids increase the sweetness of sugars – acidy.
2. Salts increase the sweetness of sugars – mellow.
The water soluble chemical compounds in coffee, 3. Sugars reduce the sour taste of acids – winey.
which result in the liquoring* character of the brew, can
4. Sugars reduce the saltiness of salt – bland.
be grouped according to the taste sensations they create:
6
5. Acids increase the saltiness of salts – sharp. Soury Perceived primarily on the posterior sides of the
6. Salts reduce the sourness of acids – soury. tongue. Created as the salts in the coffee combine
with the acids to reduce the overall sourness of
Sweet, sour, and salt taste interact to form the six the brew.
primary coffee taste sensations.
Taste discrimination depends somewhat on temperature.
The beginning step in systematically describing a Therefore, in cupping coffee, the most accurate overall
particular coffee taste is to identify which of the six taste impression is recorded as the coffee is tasted through
primary coffee tastes most correctly fit the taste modulation a range of several different temperatures. The three basic
sensation on the tongue. taste sensations in coffee are altered by temperature in the
following ways:
7
TWELVE SECONDARY TASTES COFFEE TASTE SENSATIONS
At a minimum, the six primary coffee tastes can be Primary Term Variation Taste Term
further categorized into 12 secondary tastes:
Acidy Toward Sweet Nippy
Toward Sour Piquant
12 Secondary Tastes
Mellow Toward Sweet Mild
Toward Salty Delicate
WINEY SOURY
SOUR
tart hard Winey Toward Sweet Tangy
Toward Sour Tart
tangy acrid
ACIDY
Coffee
SHARP
Sharp Toward Salty Rough
nippy
Gustation
rough
Toward Sour Astringent
delicate soft
MELLOW BLAND
WINEY SOURY
SOUR
India Arabica tart hard Rio - Brazil
tangy acrid
ACIDY
Coffee SHARP
Colombian Excelso Ivory Coast
Gustation
Costa Rica SHB nippy rough Angola
SWEET SALT
8
Dark-Roast Coffees In the gustation of dark-roast coffees, four combinations
usually arise. Two are similar to the taste modulation of
Dark-roast coffees offer a different modulation of the standard-roast coffees:
basic tastes. Because the majority of the sugars decompose
due to the extensive pyrolysis* of the bean, the sweet 5 Acids increase the saltiness of salts – sharp
characteristic in the taste is lost. It is replaced by the bitter 6 Salts reduce the sourness of acids – soury
taste perception attributable to the increase in phenolic
compounds. Two combinations are unique to the taste modulation of
The taste sensation of bitterness is generally dark roast coffees:
misunderstood, and in most foods bitterness is considered 7 Bittering agents increase the sourness of acids –
undesirable. However, in several products, such as dark harsh
chocolate, certain beers, red wines, and tonic water, the 8 Acids decrease the bitterness of bittering
bitter attribute is both characteristic and desirable. In all of
agents – pungent.
these situations, modulation of the bitter taste contributes
greatly to the total flavor profile. The same is true for Two of the four basic tastes, bitter and salt, do
coffee. not interact.
Foods and beverages, in which bitterness comprises
the basic modulation component of the taste perception, PRIMARY DARK-ROAST COFFEE
tend to spark the greatest controversy as to their overall TASTE SENSATIONS
acceptability. Although dark-roasted coffees represent an The first step when describing the flavor of a dark roast
important segment of the total coffee market, the bitter coffee is to identify the primary coffee taste sensation:
aspect of their tastes tends to reduce their universal
acceptance. Sharp Perceived primarily on the anterior sides of
In coffee, the bitter components of the taste come from the tongue. Created as the acids in the coffee
three sources. First, bitterness is a taste characteristic of combine with the salts to increase the overall
certain nonvolatile acids also found in coffee, particularly saltiness of the brew.
chlorogenic and quinic acids. Second, bitterness is the
Soury Perceived primarily on the posterior sides of
basic taste characteristic of caffeine and trigonilline –
the tongue. Created as the salts in the coffee
white crystalline alkaloids occurring naturally in coffee
combine with the acids to reduce the overall
beans, tea leaves, cocoa beans, and cola nuts. And third,
sourness of the brew.
bitterness is a taste characteristic associated with phenolic
and heterocyclic compounds, which form as the coffee
Harsh Perceived primarily on the back of the tongue.
beans undergo continued pyrolysis* and develop from
Created as the bittering agents in the coffee
standard roast coffees into dark-roast coffees.
combine with the acids to increase the overall
sourness of the brew.
4 COMBINATIONS WITH BITTER
Pungent Perceived primarily on the back of the tongue.
Created as the acids in the coffee combine
HARSH SOURY
SOUR with the bittering agents to decrease the
overall bitterness of the brew.
9
regardless of temperature. Second, because many of the asparagine, glutamic, and leucine; phenolic acids, such
sour fruit acid components of the coffee bean burn up along as caffeic, chlorogenic, quinic; and aliphatic acids, such
with the sugar compounds during roasting, it is unusual as acetic, lactic, citric, malic, fumaric, oxalic, phosphoric,
to have a sour taste as the predominant taste of a dark and tartaric. From a general taste perspective, higher than
roast coffee. And third, the taste perception of bitterness normal concentrations of amino acids lead to sweet type
actually decreases as the concentration of bittering agents flavor sensations; higher levels of phenolic acids lead to
increases. That is why espresso coffees tend to have less of bitter type sensations; while higher amounts of aliphatic
a bitter character in their flavor than if the same dark-roast acids lead to sour type sensations.
coffee were brewed in a conventional coffee brewer. Dark-
roast coffees tend to have a taste that is simultaneously Common Household Beverages
sharp and pungent.
pH SCALE
Dark-Roast Tastes
lemonade
DARK ROAST colas
orange juice
white wine
creosol astrigent Strong Acid
apple juice
Coffee bourbon/scotch
PUNGENT SHARP
Gustation beer
alkaline rough
carbonated water
cow’s milk
pure water - neutral
Secondary Term Variation Taste Term gin/vodka
10
taste, and the caffeic acid is recognizably sour. Together varied and intricate taste sensations of fruit acids, coffee
this combination of bitter and sour creates the acerbic taste cupping offers stimulating challenges in olfaction, due to
and smell of old coffee. the various combinations and patterns of aromatic scents
The next most important group is the aliphatic acids. offered by the complex, volatile components of coffee beans.
While not the greatest in volume, this group of acids tends
to produce the greatest quantity of hydrogen ions. This Gustation Terminology
increased concentration of hydrogen ions, as measured by
the pH of the acid, is associated with sourness. The order Acidy A primary taste sensation related to the
of intensity of these acids found in coffee is usually given presence of sweet-tasting compounds.
as: tartaric, citric, malic, lactic, and acetic. It has also Created as acids in the coffee combine
been shown that this increased concentration significantly with sugars to increase the brew’s overall
impacts the perception of the other basic tastes, particularly sweetness. A characteristic found most
sweet. often in washed Arabica coffees grown
In addition, each acid will have its own characteristic above 4,000 feet, such as Colombian
flavor, such as the lemony flavor of citric acid, the buttery Supremo. Acidy coffees range in taste
flavor of lactic acid, and the apple-like flavor of malic acid, from piquant to nippy, with the taste
which are often more perceptible as odors rather than tastes. sensation experienced at the tip of the
Acetic acid is a special case in coffee. Its presence is often tongue.
the result of the fermentation process in washed coffee.
Controlling the fermentation is a critical quality control Acrid A secondary coffee taste sensation
aspect in this method of preparation. If too much acetic related to soury. Characterized by a
acid is formed, the green beans develop a characteristic predominately piercing, sour sensation
fruity smell that is a precursor to a highly objectionable on the posterior sides of the tongue when
fermented taste in brewed coffee. the brew is first sipped; then replaced
In general taste sense, it is the presence of the aliphatic by a distinct sour sensation as the brew
acid group that gives brightness and zest to coffee’s flavor cools. Caused by a higher than normal
and is the underlying reason why coffees with a high percentage of acids increasing the salty
taste sensation during taste modulation of
acidity (low pH value – 4.8 to 5.1) are typically sold at
salt and sour. Typified by an unwashed
premium prices.
Rio coffee from Brazil.
Organic Acid Profile Alkaline A secondary coffee taste sensation related
Organic Acid Profile
Molar Concentrations
to pungent, typical in dark-roast coffees.
Lactic
Characterized by a dry, clawing sensation
0.003
at the back of the tongue. Caused by
0.0025
Glycolic
0.002
Malic
alkaline and phenolic compounds that
0.0015 have bitter-not necessarily displeasing –
0.001 taste sensations.
Citric 0.0005 Acetic
V
0 Astringent
A secondary coffee taste sensation
related to sharp. Characterized by a
predominately puckering, salty sensation
Chlorogenic Formic
on the anterior sides of the tongue when
the brew is first sipped. Caused by acids
Published date. Source: M.N. Clifford,
Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, 8/87 Quinic increasing the perceived saltiness during
modulation of the predominately salty
Coffee acidity, as low as it is, is a very positive taste attribute taste sensation. Typified by an unwashed
in coffee’s flavor.
Indonesian Robusta coffee.
Compared to wine, coffee has a limited set of acids that Basic Tastes Sweet, sour, salt, and bitter, respectively
affect its taste, which explains why so much of coffee’s characterized by sucrose, tartaric acid,
flavor is locked up in its bouquet. While wine tasting sodium chloride, and quinine.
creates an interesting exercise in gustation, due to the
11
Bitter A basic taste characterized by solutions of Hard A secondary coffee taste sensation related
quinine, caffeine, and certain other alkaloids. to soury. Characterized by a predominately
Perceived primarily by the circumvallate stinging, sour sensation on the posterior sides
papillae at the back of the tongue. of the tongue when the brew is first sipped,
replaced by a dominant sour sensation as the
Bland A primary coffee taste sensation related to brew cools. Caused by an enzymatic activity
the presence of salty tasting compounds. in the cherries converting sugars to acids
Created as the sugars in the coffee combine when the fruit pulp has been bruised during
with the salts to reduce the overall saltiness harvesting or drying. Typified by a natural
of the brew. A characteristic found most often Parana coffee from Brazil.
in washed Arabica coffees grown below 2,000
feet, such as a washed Arabica coffee from El Medicinal A secondary coffee taste term related to harsh.
Salvador (Low Grown Central). Bland coffees Characterized by a penetrating sour sensation
range in taste from “soft” to neutral, with the on the posterior sides of the tongue when the
taste sensation experienced on the sides of the brew is first sipped; replaced by a chemical
tongue. sensation reminiscent of iodine as the brew
cools, caused by the alkaloids increasing
Caustic A secondary coffee taste sensation related the sourness of the acids without any taste
to harsh. Characterized by a burning, sour modulation of sweetness. Typical of coffees in
sensation on the posterior sides of the tongue which cherries are contaminated by bacteria
when the brew is first sipped; replaced by a growth.
highly displeasing sour sensation as the brew Mellow A primary coffee taste sensation related to the
cools. Caused by bitter replacing sweet in the presence of sweet tasting compounds. Created
basic taste modulation because of a loss or as salts in the coffee combine with sugars
lack of sugars in green coffee beans. Typified to increase the brew’s overall sweetness. A
by an unwashed Liberica coffee. characteristic found most often in washed
Arabica coffees grown below 4,000 feet, such
Creosoty
A secondary coffee taste sensation related as Arabica coffee from Sumatra, Indonesia.
to pungent, which is typical in dark roast Mellow coffees range in taste from mild to
coffees. Characterized by a predominately delicate with the taste sensation experienced
scratching sensation at the back of the tongue at the tip of the tongue.
when the brew is first sipped, followed by a
strong aftertaste as the brew is swallowed. Mild A secondary coffee taste sensation related
Created by the dry distillation of the bean to mellow. Characterized by a predominately
fibers at elevated roasting temperatures, sweet tingle just past the tip of the tongue
when pyridine and phenolic compounds mix when the brew is first sipped; replaced by a
to produce burnt and oil-like taste sensations. sweet sensation as the brew cools. Caused by
the taste modulation of high concentrations of
Delicate
A secondary coffee taste sensation related both sweet and salty compounds. Typified by
to mellow. Characterized by a fragile, subtle a washed Arabica coffee from Guatemala.
sweet sensation just past the tip of the tongue
when the brew is first sipped; replaced by a Neutral
A secondary coffee taste sensation related
sweet sensation as the brew cools. Caused to bland. Characterized by the absence of
by the lowest possible combination of sugars any predominant taste sensation on any part
and salts that still produces a sweet cast to of the tongue when the brew is first sipped;
the taste but can easily be broken up by other replaced by a distinct dry sensation on the
taste sensations. Typified by a washed Papua sides of the tongue as the brew cools. Caused
New Guinea Arabica coffee. by a concentration of salts high enough to
neutralize both the sour taste of the acids
and the sweet taste of the sugars but not
high enough to evoke a salty taste sensation.
Typified by a washed Uganda Robusta coffee.
12
Nippy A secondary coffee taste sensation related Sharp A primary coffee taste sensation related to the
to acidy. Characterized by a predominately presence of salt-tasting compounds. Created
sweet, nipping sensation at the tip of the tongue as acids in the coffee combine with salts
when the brew is first sipped; replaced by a to increase the brew’s overall saltiness. A
sweet sensation as the brew cools. Caused by characteristic found most often in unwashed
a higher than normal percentage of the acids Robusta coffees, such as coffee from the Ivory
perceived as sour during modulation of the Coast in Africa. Sharp coffees range from
predominately sweet taste sensation. Typified rough to astringent, with the taste sensation
by a Costa Rica SHB coffee. experienced on the sides of the tongue.
Piquant
A secondary coffee taste sensation related Soft A secondary coffee taste sensation related to
to acidy. Characterized by a predominately bland. Characterized by an absence of any
sweet, prickling sensation at the tip of the predominant taste sensation on any part of the
tongue when the brew is first sipped; replaced tongue, except for a subtle dryness. Caused
by a sweet sensation as the brew cools. Caused by a concentration of salts high enough to
by a higher than normal percentage of acids neutralize the acids but not high enough to
perceived as sweet during modulation of the neutralize the sugars. Typified by an unwashed
predominately sweet taste sensation. Typified Arabica coffee from Santos, Brazil.
by a Kenyan AA coffee.
Sour A basic taste sensation characterized by
Primary Acidy, mellow, winey, bland, sharp, and solutions of tartaric acid, citric acid, or malic
Coffee soury. Created as the basic taste sensations acid. Perceived by the foliate and fungiform
Taste interact with one another, depending papillae in the posterior sides of the tongue.
Sensation on the relative strength of each. Results of the
process of taste modulation and the basis of Soury A primary coffee taste sensation related to
grouping together coffees of similar taste. the presence of sour-tasting compounds.
Created as salts in the coffee combine with
Rough A secondary coffee taste sensation related acids to reduce the brew’s overall sourness. A
to sharp. Characterized by a predominately characteristic found most often in unwashed
rasping, parching sensation on the anterior Arabica coffees grown below 2,000 feet in
sides of the tongue. Caused by the additive Brazil, such as unwashed Arabica coffee from
property of salty taste sensations. Typified by Victoria, Brazil.
an unwashed Angola Robusta coffee.
Sweet A basic taste characterized by solutions of
Salt A basic taste characterized by solutions of sugars (sucrose and glucose), alcohols, glycols,
chlorides, bromides, iodides, nitrates, and and some acids (amino acids). Perceived
sulfates of potassium and lithium. Perceived primarily by the fungiform papillae at the tip
primarily by the fungiform and foliate papillae of the tongue.
on the anterior sides of the tongue. Tangy A secondary coffee taste sensation related
to winey. Characterized by a predominately
Secondary Created when a single basic taste dominates darting, sour sensation along the anterior
Coffee the primary coffee taste sensations: sides of the tongue. Caused by a higher than
Taste Acidy – piquant to nippy. normal percentage of sugars, which gives the
Sensations Mellow – mild to delicate. taste an almost fruity sensation. Typified by a
Winey – tangy to tart. high grown, cherry coffee from India.
Bland – soft to neutral.
Sharp – rough to astringent. Tart A secondary coffee taste sensation related
Soury – hard to acrid. to winey. Characterized by a predominately
biting, sour sensation along the anterior sides
The temperature of the brew affects perception of the tongue. Caused by a higher than normal
of the sensation. percentage of sour acids giving the taste an
almost puckering sensation. Typified by an
unwashed Arabica coffee from Kivu, Congo.
13
Winey A primary coffee taste sensation related to Coffee oils play a subtle but important role in the
the presence of sour-tasting compounds. overall presentation of coffee’s flavor. First, they reduce
Created as sugars in the coffee combine with the surface tension of the water in the beverage as the oil
acids to reduce the brew’s overall sourness. A droplets are suspended in the fluid. This gives the coffee
characteristic found most often in unwashed a smooth or creamy texture. Second, the oils carry other
Arabica coffees grown above 4,000 feet, such flavoring compounds, just as animal fat is the prime
as an unwashed Djimma coffee from Ethiopia. carrier for wood-smoke flavors in the smoking of hams and
cheeses. The fats in coffee are also the prime carriers of
STAGE III: COFFEE MOUTHFEEL foreign flavoring compounds that can taint the flavor of
Mouthfeel is the tactile sense derived from physical coffee. Finally, hydrogenation and oxidation of the fats are
sensations in the mouth during and after ingestion of a responsible for part of the major flavor changes that occur
food or beverage. The density, viscosity, surface tension, during the staling process, just as butter turns rancid when
and other physical and chemical properties of the material left in a warm, moist environment.
being sampled educe the sensations. The soft structures
of the mouth have a network of free nerve endings, plus Sediment
encapsulated and unencapsulated nerve terminations. The The undissolved solid material, or sediment, comes from
free nerve endings respond to touch and light pressure, as two sources. First, a small amount of bean fiber washes off
well as thermal, chemical, and mechanical stimulation. the surface of the roast and ground particles, and remains
The characteristic feel of food and beverage products suspended in the beverage. As gravity acts upon these
is often one of the most important aspects of their quality. micro-fine particles of bean fiber, they eventually settle
Firmness, softness, juiciness, or oiliness is measured in out as sediment in the bottom of the cup.
the mouth much as they would be measured by the finger. Second, the remaining amounts of undissolved solid
Continued release of flavor during the corresponding materials are insoluble proteins. The source of these
tactile sensation is both physiologically and psychologically proteins in the brew is the amino acids* present in the
important. If the flavor disappears or is exhausted before green bean. The proteins are formed as the amino acids
the food or beverage is ingested, an impulse to reject the combine to form larger molecules during the roasting
food or beverage may develop. process. Ultimately these protein molecules become so
In coffee, the tactile sensation in the palate comes large that they are no longer water-soluble. These proteins
from both the undissolved liquid material (fatty oils)-and result in the coffee “tars” that often build up into a dark,
the undissolved solid material-(sediment)-that remain oily residue on the surfaces of coffee brewing equipment.
suspended in the beverage after it is brewed. In addition
to giving texture to the overall mouthfeel of the beverage, Brew Colloids
the suspended materials contribute to the flavor of the
The oil and sediment suspended in the coffee beverage
beverage through the formation of brew colloids*.
combine to form coffee brew colloids*, which are oily in
Fatty Oils nature. They help give coffee its texture as a beverage,
just as dust and water vapor combine in the atmosphere
Green coffee beans contain between 7 and 17 percent to form clouds. As brew colloids they are adsorbing* and
fat, produced by the coffee shrub and stored in its seeds to absorbing* other flavoring compounds, which contributes
provide sustenance for germination. Normally plants fats much to the synergism of coffee’s flavor.
become oils above room temperature and are often used as In their absorbing roles, the colloids adhere to thin
cooking oils. Coffee oil is a mixture of triglycerides and is layers of aromatic compounds, causing these gaseous
similar in composition to butter and cottonseed oil. materials to remain trapped in the beverage until the coffee
Coffee Cottonseed is swallowed. In their adsorbing roles, the colloids act as
Triglycerides Oil Butter Oil buffering agents to produce a less acid cup, which can be
detected by both taste and pH measurements. Formation of
brew colloids accounts for the principal flavor differences
Myristic 3% – 1%
between fresh-brew and instant coffees. In cupping coffee,
Palmitic 28% 28% 21%
the traditional method of sample preparation greatly
Stearic 10% 25% 22%
increases the amount of brew colloids formed in the cup.
Oleic 21% 39% 29%
Passing coffee brews through paper filters removes
Linoleic 28% – 23%
most of the coffee colloid particles. However, small colloids
14
of less than approximately 1 micro-unit (mu) can pass Creamy A mouthfeel sensation caused by a
through most filter papers. Continued heating also breaks moderately high level of oily material
down the stability of brew colloids; gravity separates them suspended in the coffee beverage – the
into an oily film on the surface of the brew and sediment result of pronounced amounts of fats in
on the bottom of the cup. Consequently, coffees that are the green beans.
directly heated for any length of time go through a flavor
Heavy A mouthfeel term that describes coffee’s
change that is the result of the breakup of brew colloids.
body and denotes a moderately high level
Body vs. Strength of solid material suspended in the coffee
beverages – fine particles of bean fiber
The systematic description of a coffee’s flavor concludes
and insoluble proteins are present in
with the description of its body. This measures the tactile
pronounced amounts.
sensation perceived by the nerve endings in the mouth
responding to the insoluble material – both liquid and Light Describes coffee’s body and denotes a
solid – suspended in the coffee brew. Body should be moderately low level of solid material
differentiated from strength, which is an intensity measure suspended in the brew – the result of
of the amount and type of soluble material present. Strength fine particles of bean fiber and insoluble
gives coffee its taste characteristics, whereas body gives proteins present in perceptible amounts.
coffee its mouthfeel characteristics. It is possible to brew Usually associated with low coffee-to-
coffees that have a heavy body, but not a strong taste. water ratio used for brewing.
Coffee with a very low fat content and the presence of Smooth A mouthfeel sensation caused by a
hard or nonbrittle bean fiber would be described as either moderately low level of oily material
water or thin. Coffees with a moderate fat content and some suspended in the coffee beverage. The
bean fiber splintered off during the grinding process would result of moderate amounts of fats present
be described as either smooth or light. The terms creamy in the green beans.
or heavy should refer to coffees with a relatively high
fat content mixed with some splintered bean fiber. And Thick A sensation caused by a relatively
buttery or thick would be appropriate adjectives for coffees high level of solid material suspended
with an extremely high fat content and high percentage of in the coffee beverage. Most often a
fiber material. characteristic of espresso-style beverage,
For example, the systematic description of a Coffee AA this is the result of the presence of
taken from a Full City Roast would end with the description substantial amounts of bean fiber
of the overall mouthfeel, or body sensation. Because the fat particles and insoluble proteins.
content of Coffee AA is relatively high while the bean fiber Thin A sensation caused by a relatively low
is somewhat hard (with little splintering during grinding) level of solid material suspended in
the overall body sensation has a moderately pronounced the coffee beverage – the result of fine
creamy texture, but only a moderately perceptible particles of bean fiber and insoluble
heavy feel. proteins present in slightly perceptible
amounts. Most often a characteristic of
Mouthfeel Terminology brews prepared through a paper-filtering
Body The physical properties of the beverage device with a low coffee-to-water ratio for
that result in the tactile sensations the brew formula.
perceived on the tongue and skin in the Watery A sensation cause by a relatively low
mouth during and after indigestion. level of oily material suspended in the
Buttery A mouthfeel sensation denoting a relatively coffee beverage – the result of slightly
high level of oily material suspended in perceptible amounts of fats present in the
the brew. Most often a characteristic of green beans. Most often a characteristic
coffees brewed under pressure such as of brews with extremely low coffee-to-
espresso, resulting in substantial amounts water ratios.
of oil washed off the bean fibers.
15
SECTION TWO: will absorb a musty flavor in their fats. A hidy flavor results
FLAVOR TAINTS AND FAULTS when the coffee beans are heated too rapidly, particularly
when mechanical drying is used, causing the fats to
It is virtually impossible for the coffee bean, either green break down.
or roasted, to exist in a state of equilibrium,* or natural
balance. Through the coffee bean’s entire life span – from DRYING PROCESS DURING HARVESTING
first appearing on the coffee shrub, to having its water
soluble organic* and inorganic* materials consumed as a Internal Changes Affecting The Acids
beverage – internal and external factors continually act
upon it. If the influence of these factors is strong enough, RIOY RUBBERY FERMENTED
16
compounds. The change is most noticeable as a loss of
AGING PROCESS AFTER HARVESTING
fragrance from the ground coffee.
As the staling process continues, more of the volatile
STRAWY
GRASSY organic material is removed from the coffee beans through
PAST CROP
the release of carbon dioxide gas, which dissolves aromatic
compounds trapped in the bean fiber. A loss of aroma
NEW CROP AGED from the coffee brew characterized by this change, and the
WOODY resulting coffee, is referred to as flat. Continued staling
When coffee reaches the point of tasting woody, it’s no causes further loss of volatile* organic material that
longer commercially usable. ordinarily would be part of the vapors contributing to the
nose of the brew. When this occurs, the coffee is called
PHASE III: ROASTING/CARAMELIZATION vapid.
The third phase of chemical change occurs during the If moisture and oxygen penetrate the coffee bean,
roasting process. As the roasting temperature approaches further changes occur. First, there is an oxidation of the
400ºF, the sugars inside the beans undergo a series of oils in the coffee beans. Most noticeable in the taste of
chemical changes: they combine with the other organic the brew, this change is referred to as insipid. Second,
and inorganic material in the beans and ultimately become continued exposure to oxygen and moisture accelerate the
a brown mass known as caramel. The chemical changes oxidation of the linoleic triglyceride, changing the taste
follow distinct pathways, with the amount and rate at which from pleasant to unpleasant, a condition referred to as
heat is applied as well as the sugars present in the green stale. Finally, the oxygen and moisture react with the fats
beans, affecting the ultimate flavor compounds. in the coffee beans, causing them to take on a distinctly
If the caramelization process does not proceed far offensive character that is called rancid.
enough due to low heat, the roasted coffee beans retain an
STALING PROCESS AFTER ROASTING
herbal flavor. This flavor characteristic is reminiscent of
a green vegetable, such as green peas, and is referred to
STALE
as green. If heating proceeds too slowly, the roasted beans FRESH
will have a flat aroma and vapid nose, which is called a
baked flavor. If heat is applied too quickly – as evidenced
FLAT VAPID INSIPID
by charring at the tip of the beans – not all of the chemical
reactions take place, giving the coffee beans a tipped RANCID
17
coffee. Next, water evaporates from the brew, condensing TAINTS AND FAULTS TERMINOLOGY
the salts in the beverage to give it a briny character. In
Acerbic A taste fault in the coffee brew giving an
addition, continued heating burns or scorches the proteins,
acrid and sour sensation on the tongue.
suspended in the brew as colloids, giving the old coffee a
Created by chlorogenic acid compounds
tarry flavor. Finally, the alkaloids in the brew become so
breaking into shorter-chain quinic and
concentrated that their bitterness combines with the salts
caffeic acids due to excessive heat during
to present a brackish flavor.
the holding time after brewing.
HOLDING PROCESS AFTER BREWING Aged A taste and mouthfeel taint that gives
coffee beans a less acidy taste but greater
FLAT VAPID
body – the result of enzyme activity in
FRESH BRACKISH
the green coffee beans creating a physical
change during the aging process while
ACERBIC BRINY TARRY the beans are stored after harvesting.
Baked A taste and odor taint that gives the
In the post-brewing period, coffee’s flavor changes faster coffee brew a flat bouquet and insipid
than at any other point in the transformation process. taste. Occurs when the roasting process
proceeds with too little heat over too long
EXTERNAL CONTAMINATION OF FLAVOR a period, causing the caramelization
process to follow chemical pathways that
Many of the flavor taints and faults associated with
do not develop flavorful compounds.
coffee are the result of contamination from outside sources,
and are not part of the natural chemical reactions within Brackish A taste fault in the coffee brew that
the beans before, during, or after the roasting process. produces a salty and alkaline sensation.
For two reasons, coffee beans tend to transmit unwanted Results when water evaporates from the
flavors easily. First, the coffee bean’s fiber tends to brew due to excessive heat, leaving a
be hydroscopic – it readily absorbs moisture, thereby concentration of mineral oxides (salt-like)
absorbing the chemical compounds present in the water and alkaline inorganic material.
vapor as well. Second, the fats in the coffee beans, like all Briny A taste fault giving coffee brews a salty
fats, find and hold chemical compounds that are gaseous at sensation. Results when excessive heat is
room temperature. The fats absorb the odor molecules from applied after brewing, leading to water
the surrounding air and retain them until they are released evaporation and a concentration
in the brew as the fats dissolve into oils. The result is a of astringent tasting inorganic marterial.
wide range of off-flavors, too numerous to mention, that can Earthy An odor taint in the coffee beans that
become part of the coffee brew’s flavor. produces a dirt-like aftertaste – the result
In addition to visually examining a green coffee sample, of fats in the coffee beans absorbing
a cupper evaluates the odor by placing the sample close organic material from the ground in the
to his or her nose and sniffing deeply several times. In drying process during harvesting. Also
many instances, a cupper first detects contamination referred to as “dirty” or “groundy.”
from external sources as foreign odors in the green Fermented A taste fault in the coffee beans that
coffee sample. produces a highly displeasing sour
EXTERNAL CONTAMINATION FROM WATER sensation on the tongue – the result
of enzyme activity in the green coffee
In some situations, organic and/or inorganic material in
beans changing the sugars to acetic
the coffee combines with inorganic material in the water
acid (vinegar) in the drying process after
used for brewing, creating a completely new set of chemical
harvesting.
compounds found neither in just the water nor the coffee.
These new chemical compounds usually have displeasing Flat An odor taint that results when aromatic
taste characteristics that tend to be medicinal or metallic compounds leave the beans as part of the
in character. Chlorine residues are the most common type staling process after roasting, or leave the
of external contamination from water. brew as part of the holding process after
brewing.
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Fresh An aromatic highlight in the coffee bean Past Crop A taste taint giving the coffee beans a
or brew that is highly pleasing. The result slightly less acidy taste characteristic.
of extremely volatile organic compounds, Occurs because of enzymatic changes in
particularly those containing sulfur, the coffee beans during the aging process,
evoking a highly pleasing sensation on one or more years after harvesting.
the olfactory membranes. Quakery A taste taint that gives the coffee brew
Grassy A taste and odor taint giving the coffee a pronounced peanutty flavor. Caused
beans a distinct herbal character similar by picking unripe, green coffee cherries
to freshly mown alfalfa combined with during harvesting that remain very light
the astringency of green grass. Created colored and under developed beans when
by the prominence of nitrogen-containing roasted.
compounds in the green beans developed Rancid A taste fault giving the brew a highly
while the cherries are maturing.
displeasing taste – a result of moisture
Green A taste that gives the coffee brew an and oxygen causing a chemical change
herbal character. Caused by incomplete in the oils of the roasted coffee beans
development of the sugar-carbon that occurs during the staling process
compounds in the roasting process following roasting.
because of insufficent heat applied during
Rioy A taste fault that produces a highly
too short a period.
pronounced medicinal (iodine-like)
Hidy An odor taint in the coffee beans that characteristic in the brew. Usually
produces a tallowy and leather-like associated with natural processed
odor. A result of the breakdown of fats Arabica coffees grown in Brazil and
in the coffee beans, this occurs when an shipped through Rio de Janeiro. Result
excessive amount of heat is applied in the of bacteria induced enzyme activity that
drying process – common to a mechanical continues in the fruit when the fruit is
drying-during harvesting. allowed to partially dry on the shrub.
Insipid A taste taint that gives the coffee brew a Rubbery taste fault giving the coffee beans a
A
lifeless character due to a loss of flavor highly burnt-rubber character. Usually
compounds. This loss of organic material associated with natural processed Robusta
in the coffee beans is the result of oxygen coffees grown in Africa, this occurs
and moisture penetrating the bean fiber because of continued enzyme activity
during the staling process after roasting, in the fruit when the fruit is allowed to
but before brewing. partially dry on the shrub.
Musty n odor taint giving the coffee beans a
A Scorched An odor taint giving the coffee brew
moldy smell – a result of fats in the coffee a slight aftertaste of a phenolic and
beans absorbing organic material from pyridine (smoky-burnt) character with an
molds (fungus) on, or in contact with, the underdevelopment of the caramelization
coffee beans during the drying process. compounds – the result of applying too
Also referred to as moldy. much heat too quickly, and charring the
New Crop A taste taint that gives the coffee beans a surface of the bean during roasting.
slightly herbal character when brewed – a Stale A taste fault giving the brew an unpleasant
result of an incomplete enzymatic change taste – a result of moisture and oxygen
in the green beans during the aging penetrating the bean fiber and adversely
process after harvesting and drying. affecting the organic material that remains
Continued storage (allowing the coffee in the coffee bean. Occurs in the staling
to “rest” three to six months) ultimately process after roasting.
eliminates this taste taint.
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Strawy A taste taint giving the coffee beans a SAMPLE PREPARATION
distinct hay-like character. Results from Coffee beans are ground into a “fine” grind, in which
the loss of organic material from the approximately 70% - 75% of all the particles pass through
green beans while in storage and occurs the U.S. Standard Size 20 sieve. The purpose of this grind
during the aging process after harvesting. standard is to achieve an 18% - 22% extraction rate from
Tarry A taste fault in the coffee brew producing the roast and ground coffee. Empirical testing has identified
an unpleasant burnt character. A result this as the optimum extraction range for balancing all of
of excessive heat scorching the proteins the flavoring compounds removed from the coffee.
in the brew. Occurs during the holding Because water accounts for approximately 99% of the
process after brewing. coffee brew, the importance of the water quality used for
Tipped A taste taint giving the coffee brew a sample preparation cannot be overemphasized. The water
cereal-like taste-a result of heat applied should contain between 100 - 200ppm (parts per million)
too quickly in the roasting process, which dissolved minerals – the same level of water hardness
chars the tips of the coffee beans. found in “crystal fresh” drinking water. Distilled water
is not recommended. In addition, filter out any chemical
Vapid An odor taint in the coffee brew marked added for water treatment, particularly chlorine. Water
by a loss of organic material that would quality cannot be taken for granted, and it must be checked
normally be gaseous in both the aroma and to ensure accurate sensory perceptions. The SCAA Water
nose. The result of elevated temperatures Quality Handbook is recommended for further relevant
driving out gaseous molecules trapped information.
in the brew during the holding process Coffee for each sample cup should be prepared and
after brewing. Can also occur during the pre-portioned by weight in whole-bean form and ground
staling process after roasting. individually so as to isolate any defect to a single cup, rather
Wild A taste fault in the coffee beans than be dissipated among multiple cups. Additionally, a
characterized by extreme variation “flush” portion of a coffee sample should be ground and
between sample cups, usually marked by discarded before grinding for cupping to displace any
unpleasant sourness. Results from either grounds retained from the previous sample by the grinder.
internal chemical change in the green The coffee-to-water ratio in each sample cup must
beans or external contamination. remain constant, most often set at 8.25 grams of coffee
(the original weight of one nickel and one dime) to 150
Woody A taste fault in the coffee beans that mLof water (approximately 5 fluid ounces). This presents
produces a distinct, unpleasant, wood- the coffee’s flavor in the strength range of 1.1% - 1.3%
like character. A result of an almost dissolved solids. It is equivalent to using a coffee-to-water
complete loss of organic material in the ratio of 3.75 ounces of coffee per 64 fluid ounces of water
green beans during storage, as the final in the half-gallon brewer, or using 1 pound of coffee with
change during the aging process. Makes 2.25 gallons of water in an urn.
the coffee commercially unusable. The brewing method is infusion: Nearly boiling water
(195° - 205ºF) is poured directly onto the roasted and
ground coffee particles contained in a small cup. The
SECTION THREE: particles initially rise to the surface of the water to form a
CUPPING METHOD crust or cap. As the coffee particles steep in the hot water,
Coffee cupping is a method used to systematically they begin to sink.
evaluate the aroma and taste characteristics of a sample of The infusion process continues for three to five minutes:
coffee beans. The method consists of a prescribed manner Break the cap and firmly stir the coffee to ensure that all
of brewing and a series of steps that lead to a complete the particles become thoroughly wetted and sink to the
sensory evaluation by the coffee cupper’s olfaction, bottom of the cup. Those that do not are skimmed off
gustation, and mouthfeel sensations. Because cupping the surface of the brew and discarded. In this method of
is usually associated with an economic purpose, such as brewing, nothing is done to filter the coffee or otherwise
buying or blending of coffees, its practitioners rigorously interfere with the extraction of the flavoring material from
follow these procedures and techniques. the coffee grounds.
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