The Axolotl
Amigurumi Crochet Pattern by Matthew Walker
mrfox.etsy.com
Unless stated otherwise, crochet in continuous rounds.
sc – single crochet
2sc – single crochet twice into the same stitch
sc2tog – “decrease”. Insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch and
draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook. This turns two stitches in the previous
row to a single stitch in the current row.
You should use a 4mm crochet hook (Size 6/Size G), but may choose to use a smaller hook when
making the “gills” on the side of the axolotl’s head. Doing so is recommended.
You will need yarn in two colours, one being cream/flesh-coloured/white and the other being pink. If
you choose to use pink as the main colour, the gills should be done in a darker shade. You’ll also
need something to use as eyes (safety eyes as pictured, or buttons can be used), toy stuffing and a
yarn-needle. Unless otherwise stated, begin with a foundation ring such as the “magic circle/ring”.
Unless stated otherwise, use the lighter (cream/white/flesh) yarn.
Head
Row 1: Begin a foundation ring with 7 sc (7 stitches)
Row 2: 2sc into each stitch (14 stitches)
Row 3: (sc into the first stitch, 2sc into the next stitch) x7 (21 stitches)
Row 4: (sc into the first two stitches, 2sc into the next stitch) x7 (28 stitches)
Row 5: (sc into the first six stitches, 2sc into the next stitch) x4 (32 stitches)
Row 6: (sc into the first seven stitches, 2sc into the next stitch) x4 (36 stitches)
Row 7: (sc into the first eight stitches, 2sc into the next stitch) x4 (40 stitches)
Row 8: (sc into the first nineteen stitches, 2sc into the next stitch) x2 (42 stitches)
Rows 9-13: sc into each stitch (42 stitches per row)
Row 14: (sc into the first five stitches, sc2tog for next stitch) x6 (36 stitches)
Row 15: (sc into the first four stitches, sc2tog for next stitch) x6 (30 stitches)
Row 16: (sc into the first three stitches, sc2tog for next stitch) x6 (24 stitches)
Row 17: (sc into the first two stitches, sc2tog for next stitch) x6 (18 stitches)
Finish.
Gills – use the pink yarn and smaller (3mm/Size D/Size 3) hook if possible. Make six.
Row 1: Begin a foundation ring with 5 sc (5 stitches)
Rows 2-6: sc into each stitch (5 stitches per row)
Finish.
Body – Note that in Row 11 the text reads “2 sc” meaning to do two separate single crochet stitches,
not “2sc” which would have meant to do a stitch increase.
Row 1: Begin a foundation ring with 7 sc (7 stitches)
Row 2: 2sc into each stitch (14 stitches)
Row 3: (sc into the first stitch, 2sc into the next stitch) x7 (21 stitches)
Row 4: (sc into the first two stitches, 2sc into the next stitch) x7 (28 stitches)
Row 5: (sc into the first six stitches, 2sc into the next stitch) x4 (32 stitches)
Rows 6-10: sc into each stitch (32 stitches per row)
Row 11: 9 sc, sc2tog, 2 sc, sc2tog, 2 sc, sc2tog, 2 sc, sc2tog, 9 sc (28 stitches)
Row 12: sc into each stitch (28 stitches)
Row 13: (sc into the first 12 stitches, sc2tog for the next stitch) x2 (26 stitches)
Row 14: (sc into the first 11 stitches, sc2tog for the next stitch) x2 (24 stitches)
Row 15: (sc into the first 4 stitches, sc2tog for the next stitch) x4 (20 stitches)
Row 16: sc into each stitch (20 stitches)
Row 16: (sc into the first 8 stitches, sc2tog for the next stitch) x2 (18 stitches)
Finish.
Tail
Row 1: Begin a foundation ring with 5 sc (5 stitches)
Rows 2-3: sc into each stitch (5 stitches per row)
Row 4: 2sc into first stitch, sc into next four stitches (6 stitches)
Row 5: sc into each stitch (6 stitches)
Row 6: 2sc into first stitch, sc into next five stitches (7 stitches)
Row 7: sc into each stitch (7 stitches)
Row 8: 2sc into first stitch, sc into next six stitches (8 stitches)
Row 9: 2sc into first stitch, sc into next seven stitches (9 stitches)
Row 10: 2sc into first stitch, sc into next eight stitches (10 stitches)
Row 11: 2sc into first stitch, sc into next nine stitches (11 stitches)
Row 12: 2sc into first two stitches, sc into next nine stitches (13 stitches)
Finish.
Tail “Ridge” – use the pink yarn. The number of stitches given here is what worked for me and for
the tester of this pattern, but you should use your own judgement if necessary to make the piece
the same length as the tail.
Row 1: chain 15 stitches
Row 2: turn and sc into the 14 stitches (one stitch will be lost whilst turning)
Finish.
Arm – Make two. You may choose to stuff the hand as you are going along but I simply poked the
stuffing in at the end. Do not stuff the whole arm; only stuff a little higher than the hand, if you do
choose to stuff as you go along.
Row 1: Begin a foundation ring with 6 sc (6 stitches)
Row 2: 2sc into each stitch (12 stitches)
Row 3: (sc into the first five stitch, 2sc into the next stitch) x2 (14 stitches)
Row 4: sc into each stitch (14 stitches)
Row 5: (sc into the first five stitches, sc2tog for the next stitch) x2 (12 stitches)
Row 6: (sc into the first two stitches, sc2tog for the next stitch) x3 (9 stitches)
Row 7: sc into the first 7 stitches, sc2tog for the next stitch (8 stitches)
Rows 8-13: sc into each stitch (8 stitches per row)
Finish.
Leg – Make two. As with Row 11 of the body, Row 5 of the leg requires two separate single crochet
stitches for the instruction “2 sc”, not two single crochet stitches into the same stitch
Row 1: Begin a foundation ring with 5 sc (5 stitches)
Row 2: 2sc into each stitch (10 stitches)
Row 3: (sc into the first stitch, 2sc into the next stitch) x5 (15 stitches)
Row 4: sc into each stitch (15 stitches)
Row 5: 3 sc, sc2tog, 2 sc, sc2tog, 2 sc, sc2tog, 2 sc (12 stitches)
Rows 6-9: sc into each stitch (12 stitches per row)
Finish
Assembly – images of the finished product, which can be found at www.flickr.com/mrfoxy, should be
used if you need visual guidance.
Attach the eyes to the head securely and sew on the six gills. Use the large-eye needle and the
lighter yarn to do this and ensure that they are placed symmetrically and evenly. It is not necessary
to stuff the gills. Once they are securely attached, stuff the head.
Sew the ridge onto the tail using the pink, darker yarn. One side of the tail will be “flat” as all stitch
increases were applied to the same side. The flat side should be at the bottom, so the ridge should
be sewn onto the top (curved) side. Then sew the tail, once the ridge is securely attached, onto the
back of the body. Stuffing the body will make which side is the front and which is the back more
clear. The front should be curved for the stomach, as caused by the asymmetry of Row 11.
Stuff and sew the legs onto the front of the body, pointing outwards at an angle. As with the body,
the stitch decreases will dictate which way around the legs go. The side on which the decreases were
done will be the top, curving in for the shape of the foot. Stuff the bottom of the arms but leave the
top mostly unstuffed. Sew the arms to the top of the body, resting at either side behind the legs.
Stuff the body and sew on the head. Ensure that the head is pointing straight forwards.
Your axolotl is now complete! Thank you for crocheting with Mr Fox’s Toy Emporium. Don’t forget to
check back for more original patterns which can’t be found anywhere else at www.mrfox.etsy.com.
