Spool Knitting
Spool Knitting
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SPOOL KNITTING
SPOOL
KNITTING
BY
MARY A. McCORMACK
NEW YORK
A. S. BARNES & COMPANY
1909
Copyright, 1909
By A. S. BARNES & COMPANY.
CONTENTS
PAGE
Spool Knitting                     1
Toy Knitters                       3
Round Web                          5
Flat Web                           7
Circular Mat                       9
Ball for Baby                      11
Doll’s Muff                        13
Collarette                         15
Tom O’ Shanter Cap                 17
Baby’s Rattle                      19
Toboggan Cap                       21
Child’s Bath or Bedroom Slippers   23
Small Mittens                      25
Doll’s Hood                        27
Doll’s Coat or Jacket              29
Bootees                            33
Little Boy Blue                    35
Little Red Riding Hood             37
Doll’s Skirt                       39
Little Boy’s Hat                   41
Child’s Muffler                    43
Child’s Hood                       45
Little Girl’s Hat                  47
Doll’s Sweater                     49
Wristlets                 51
Shoulder Shawl            53
Doll’s Carriage Robe      55
Child’s Leggings          57
Muffler                   59
Made of Knitting Cotton   61
Jumping Rope              63
Toy Horse Reins           65
Wash Cloth                67
School Bag                69
Chimney Cleaner           71
Doll’s Hammock            73
[Pg 1]
SPOOL KNITTING
Few elementary exercises have aroused more interest in the child than the toy knitting; due,
perhaps, to its simplicity and his power to do it easily and well.
To some keen observer the little orb-weaving spider may have suggested this form of
occupation. Be this as it may, the child who is a lover of nature will be quick to perceive the
strong resemblance he bears to this little insect while at work with his toy knitter, going from
post to post just as the insect worked its net in spiral form on his framework of radiating lines.
The possibilities of an empty spool and a few pins are almost without limitations. The
illustrations here given are merely suggestive of many more that can be worked out along these
lines. They are not simply to momentarily attract the child, but to permit of individual growth,
and to have him participate in the joy of its ultimate use.
[Pg 2]
[Pg 3]
Toy Knitters
Toy knitters are made of a cylindrical piece of wood two and one-half or three inches long and at
least one inch in diameter. This size enables the child to grasp it easily and work without
cramping the fingers. A hole one-fourth or one-half inch in diameter is bored lengthwise through
the center to admit the work. Spools are used to advantage where knitters cannot be obtained.
Pins, staples, or wire nails are used as posts. These are driven into the wood and then curved
outward a little at the top with pliers, to prevent the work from slipping off. One, two, three or
four posts may be used.
A number of forms of web can be made, but the simplest and quickest are those made on the
knitters having but two posts. The four-post knitters are also simple and are used where a thick
cord is needed.
Except otherwise specified two-post knitters are used for these models.
[Pg 4]
[Pg 5]
Round Web
Drop worsted through the hole in the center of the knitter and draw it out at the other end, three
inches. This end is used to draw the work through the knitter. Carry the worsted leading from the
ball, around the post to the right, across the center of the hole in the knitter and around the post to
the left; then back across the center to the post at the right, thus making two stitches on this post.
Lift the lower or first stitch with a large pin or knitting needle, carry it over the second stitch and
drop it over the post; then across the center to the post at the left and repeat. So continue until the
desired length is obtained.
It will require seven yards of yarn to make one yard of web on the two-post knitter.
[Pg 6]
[Pg 7]
Flat Web
Begin in the same way as for round web, but after carrying the first or lower stitch over the
second stitch on each post, bring the worsted back around the same post, and over to the post on
the opposite side and repeat. This will leave two stitches on each post. In knitting flat webs, two
stitches must always be left on the end posts, and these two are carried over the third stitch and
dropped over the post in working back and forth.
It requires eleven yards of yarn to make one yard of flat web on the two-post knitter.
[Pg 8]
[Pg 9]
Circular Mat
A mat five inches in diameter requires two and one-half yards of round web. Start sewing with
the piece of worsted hanging from the end of the web. Coil and sew in place by taking up the
underhalf of a stitch on the right, then the underhalf of a stitch on the left side usually called "ball
stitch." Continue alternating from right to left, taking up one stitch at a time except when it is
necessary to widen; then sew two stitches of the web into one in the mat.
Run the end of sewing thread back in the sewing to fasten it. When starting with a new sewing
thread, put the needle in one inch back from where sewing ended and run it through the work to
where the last stitch was taken.
[Pg 10]
[Pg 11]
Flat web may be used by taking twelve pieces three inches long and sewing them together—
alternating color and white, if desired. Run a draw-thread around the bottom and fill with paper
or cotton; then run a draw-thread around the top. Finish with a cord made of a piece of round
web.
[Pg 12]
[Pg 13]
Doll’s Muff
This will require three yards of round web. Sew the web into a rectangular piece three inches
wide and five inches long.
Join the three-inch ends together and draw up the ends a little to form the muff. Finish with cord
to go around the neck.
[Pg 14]
[Pg 15]
Collarette
Round web five yards. Measure the doll’s neck for collar. Gradually widen each row in the back.
Bring the third row of web down in front to form the tabs; then up to the back of collarette and
finish the back, bringing the last row down in front into the tabs.
Paper patterns may be used as a guide, but children should be encouraged to draw and cut their
own patterns.
[Pg 16]
[Pg 17]
[Pg 18]
[Pg 19]
Baby’s Rattle
The foundation ring is made of a piece of splint or flat pith fifteen inches long. Form this into a
ring, having the ends lap two inches.
Wrap this with knitting cotton or yarn, being careful to keep winding even. When the winding is
completed, draw the end of cotton underneath the winding with a needle to fasten it.
Use three pieces of round web for spokes. Fasten all three together in the center. Bells may be
sewed on the outside or inside of the ring.
[Pg 20]
[Pg 21]
Toboggan Cap
To make a cap five inches long and four inches wide, knit eighty-four inches of flat web. Begin
five inches from the end of the web, turn and sew into a rectangular form five inches wide and
eight inches long.
Join the five-inch ends, and draw in the top with the needle and a piece of the material from
which the cap was made. After securing the top, twist and fold the piece of yarn remaining for a
cord and fasten a number of strands of yarn through the loop for a tassel.
[Pg 22]
[Pg 23]
Each slipper requires two and one-half yards of round web. Start at the back of the heel (A, of
illustration), and make the first two rows three inches high, then gradually shorten the next three
rows, and keep each row this height until the instep is finished. The first row on the vamp (B, of
illustration) is made one inch higher than the side. Each row is then gradually shortened, the last
row being three-fourths of an inch high (C, of illustration). This will complete one-half of the
slipper.
The other half is made in just the reverse way by continuing the sewing from the toe (C, of
illustration) back to the heel, taking care that each row is exactly the same height as the
corresponding row on the opposite side.
Join the back of the heel and sew to the soles before closing the vamp in front. Sew vamp up the
center by catching corresponding loops together. Make cord and tassel to go around the top, as in
illustration of finished slippers.
[Pg 24]
[Pg 25]
Small Mittens
Sixty inches of flat web will be required for each mitten. Cut off eight pieces six inches long. In
cutting, clip just one stitch and run the ends across, and sew them into a cylindrical form. Draw
in the top with a needle and a piece of the material and fasten securely. Leave an opening on one
side for the thumb.
The thumb is made of three pieces sewed together. The longest piece is three inches and the
others each two and three-fourths inches long. In sewing it into the mitten, have the longest piece
come down toward the wrist. Gradually form and sew it in place. Draw in the top and fasten
securely.
CORD
This is made of round web, knitted the desired length. The length will vary a little according to
size of the child, but four and one-half feet is a good length. The mittens are fastened to the ends
of the cord.
[Pg 26]
[Pg 27]
Doll’s Hood
This requires two yards of round web.
Start with the end of the web and sew into a circular form for the crown. (See illustration A.) The
sixth row is brought down to within one inch of the center of the back. Turn and sew around to
within one inch from the center of the back on the opposite side. This will leave two inches free
in the back of the hood. Turn and continue sewing in this way for five rows, which will form the
side of hood.
The remaining part of the web is then brought around the face of the hood and across the back, as
one would sew a cord.
Finish with cord and tassel for tie-strings. A rosette of yarn may be made for the top or side.
[Pg 28]
[Pg 29]
The coat is begun at the under-arm seam a. For a coat five inches long begin three inches from
the end of the web to make the first turn. Sew from this turn to the starting end of the web b,
fasten the sewing thread and cut it off. The second row is made eleven inches long, or long
enough to go over the shoulder and down the back, b to c.
Sew four rows in this way to form the front and part of the back; then four rows five inches long
for the back; then four more rows eleven inches long for the other shoulder and front d to e. Sew
the fifth or last row up three inches for the other under-arm seam.
Join the under-arm seams, leaving an opening of two inches for sleeves if they are desired. If not,
the armhole and neck can be finished off with some contrasting color.
[Pg 30]
[Pg 31]
For the sleeves, measure the length of the doll’s arm and make the first row this length. Make
each row a little longer than the preceding row until the top or shoulder part is reached, then
gradually shorten each row until the desired width is obtained. The last row should be the same
length as the first row. When sewing them in the coat, have the longest part come at the top of
the shoulder. Buttons are made by braiding yarn and sewing it in the form of buttons.
A cord for fastening is made by braiding, or twisting and folding the yarn. It is then sewed into
loops or used as cord and tassel for tying.
[Pg 32]
[Pg 33]
Bootees
Knit two yards of round web for each bootee.
Start two inches from the end of the web for the first turn. Sew into an elliptical form three and
one-half inches long for the sole. Sew two more rows without widening for the sides of the foot;
then sew two rows across the front for the toe; the third row bring all around the top to complete
the foot.
The leg of the bootee is made by bringing the web directly upward three inches before making
the first turn. Make each row three inches high and catch each row into the top of the foot while
sewing. Put cord and tassel around where the leg and foot meet.
[Pg 34]
[Pg 35]
Measure the length of the doll’s leg for the length of the trousers. Use flat web and sew it into
two rectangular pieces wide enough to make each leg a little full.
Join the inside seams part way and then join the open edge of the right front with the open edge
of the left front. Do the same with the back edges. Put a draw-string around the top, or a piece of
the web may be used for a waistband. Put in a draw-string around the bottom of each leg.
[Pg 36]
[Pg 37]
Close the cape and the hood in the back. The part above the six and a half inch rows will form
the hood. Draw in the top of these two short rows and sew to the base of the hood. Put in a draw-
string around the top of the right side of the cape in front, carry it around the base of the hood,
around the top of the cape on the left side and tie in front.
[Pg 38]
[Pg 39]
Doll’s Skirt
This skirt is five inches long and made of flat web. The first and last rows are made one and a
quarter inch shorter than the other rows forming the skirt. These two rows are sewed together
when the skirt is finished, thus forming the placket and also the desired fulness in the back.
There are sixteen rows in all. Each two, when sewed together, form a scollop at the top and
bottom where the web is turned. In sewing care must be taken to have each row the exact length
of the preceding row except in the first and last row.
The top of the skirt may be finished with a draw-string or a band made from cloth. The bottom of
the skirt may be left as it is, or be finished with a blanket stitch of some contrasting color. The
skirt requires five yards of flat web.
[Pg 40]
[Pg 41]
Make the side twice as long as the desired height of the hat. For instance, if the desired height is
to be three and a half inches, make the side seven inches long, as one-half of this measurement is
turned up.
Two colors may be used, one color for the crown and one for the side. Red and black or red and
white are pretty combinations.
A doll’s hat of the same style, the crown three and a half inches in diameter, requires five yards
of round web.
[Pg 42]
[Pg 43]
Child’s Muffler
This is a combination of flat and round web. Knit ten inches of flat web, change to round web by
bringing the yarn across the center of the hole in the knitter to the opposite post, and knit ten
inches, or the number of inches necessary to go around the neck. Change again to flat web, knit
ten inches and clip off.
Make seven such pieces and sew them together to form the muffler. The round web will form the
neck part.
Do not remove from the knitter while changing from flat to round web.
[Pg 44]
[Pg 45]
Child’s Hood
This is made much in the same way as the doll’s hood. Make the back of the hood five inches in
diameter, then turn the web and form the side. Sew around to within four inches of the place of
turning on the opposite side and turn again. So continue until the side is sufficiently wide to
cover the child’s head. Extend this side three inches beyond the desired width, widening on each
row of the extended part to give fulness. This widening may be omitted, and the extended part
turned back, leaving it perfectly plain, if desired. Trim with rosettes or pompons made of the
same material as the hood.
Turn back the extended part and tack to the hood. Sew a pompon or a rosette of yarn over the top
of the sewing stitch. For tie-strings, use cord and tassel, or ribbon.
The hood requires from twenty-five to thirty yards.
[Pg 46]
[Pg 47]
When the desired width is reached, begin forming the side by sewing one stitch of web into one
stitch of the crown, keeping each row exactly under the preceding row until the desired height is
obtained; then gradually widen to form the rim, which is three and a half or four inches broad.
Do not widen any on the last two rows, but draw the web a little tighter while sewing to make the
edge of the rim roll or turn inward.
Finish with cord and tassels around the crown, or pompons on the right or left side of the front of
the hat.
[Pg 48]
[Pg 49]
Doll’s Sweater
This is made of five and one-half yards of flat web cut into pieces of a desired length. Cut three
pieces seven inches long for the front. One inch and a half of this will also form the neck. When
cutting, clip only one stitch and pull out the ends.
The next two pieces are cut five and one-half inches long and sewed one on each side of the front
one inch and a half below the top end. Each succeeding row is made a little shorter to form the
shoulder, the shortest pieces forming the outside edges.
Make the back of the sweater in the same way and sew front and back together, leaving one and
a quarter inch opening on each side for the sleeves.
The sleeve is made of five pieces, the longest piece being three inches, and the shortest two and
one-half inches long. Sew these pieces together to form the sleeve. When sewing it into the
sweater, place the longest part at the shoulder seam and stretch the armhole while sewing it in.
[Pg 50]
[Pg 51]
Wristlets
These are made of round or flat web. Each wristlet requires one and one-half yards.
Measure five inches, the length of the wristlet, and turn. Start sewing from this point and sew to
the end of the five inches and turn again.
Continue until enough rows are sewed to make the wristlet the desired width, which in this
model is two and one-half inches.
[Pg 52]
[Pg 53]
Shoulder Shawl
This may be made of round or flat web, and of any desired size. If the shawl is to be thirty-six
inches long, clip the web into pieces of this length and sew them together until the shawl is of the
desired width, or the web may simply be turned at the end of each row, then proceed with the
sewing.
The fringe for the ends is made by cutting the yarn into lengths twice as long as the desired
length of the fringe—that is, if the fringe is to be five inches long, cut the yarn into pieces ten
inches long.
Fold each ten-inch piece in two, slip the folded end through a stitch in the end of the shawl and
draw the two ends of the piece through the loop thus formed and pull tight.
[Pg 54]
[Pg 55]
Measure fifteen inches of web and turn it. Begin sewing from this, turn down to the end of the
fifteen inches and again turn, bringing the web around over the end. Care must be taken while
turning to keep the ends perfectly flat.
When the three yards are used begin the other parts in the same way. Make four or any desired
number of parts, and sew them together, alternating the colors. Put a tassel made of the same
material on the rounded end of each part.
If round web is used it will require more for each part, for the round is not as wide as the flat
web.
[Pg 56]
[Pg 57]
Child’s Leggings
Leggings may be made of round or flat web. Measure five inches above the knee down to the
vamp of the shoe for the length of the front part of the legging. This gives the length of the first
row.
Turn the web and begin to sew from this point up to the top, then turn again and sew down to the
toe. Continue in this way until the front part is two and one-half inches wide.
Bring the remaining rows down to within two inches of the end of the toe, until the legging is
wide enough to go around the child’s leg, then sew to the opposite side of the front. Sew a piece
of tape to the instep.
[Pg 58]
[Pg 59]
Muffler
This may be made of round or flat web. Make the part to go around the neck first. In this model
the neck band is ten inches long and three inches wide. Sew four rows of flat or six rows of
round web for the neck. Begin three inches from the ends to make the front. Gradually shorten
each row until it is of the desired length.
Make loops of twisted yarn and sew to one end of the neck band to slip over the buttons. Sew the
buttons on the opposite end and on the inside where they will be hidden while the muffler is
being worn.
[Pg 60]
[Pg 61]
[Pg 62]
[Pg 63]
Jumping Rope
Select a piece of jute, or stout cord the length of the desired rope. Drop one end of this and one
end of the knitting cotton through the hole in the knitter (use knitter having four posts), and draw
it out at the other end three inches. Bring the cotton leading from the ball around each post once,
then proceed with the knitting, covering the cord or jute which is used as a core or foundation for
the rope.
[Pg 64]
[Pg 65]
Two colors may be used in knitting the reins, working around first with one color, then with the
other.
Fourteen yards of knitting cotton will make one yard of web on the four-post knitter.
[Pg 66]
[Pg 67]
Wash Cloth
This is made of white knitting cotton. It requires nine yards of web for a cloth ten by twelve
inches. Measure twelve inches of web, turn and sew toward the end.
When the twelve-inch piece is sewed turn again and sew. Continue in this way until the desired
size is obtained.
With a piece of the cotton make a loop at one corner by which to hang it.
[Pg 68]
[Pg 69]
School Bag
This may be made of round or flat web. A bag twelve inches deep and fourteen inches wide
requires thirty yards. Measure twenty-four inches of web and turn. Begin sewing from this turn
to the end of the twenty-four inches then turn again. So continue until this oblong piece measures
fourteen by twenty-four inches. Fold this in two and sew up the sides. This will avoid any seam
in the bottom of the bag.
Make handles in the same way as for jumping-rope, or a double thickness of the web may be
used for each handle and sewed to the top sides of the bag. Finish by sewing a piece of the web
around the top.
Laundry bags, sewing bags, and little bags for holding paints and water-dish may be made in
similar way.
[Pg 70]
[Pg 71]
Chimney Cleaner
This is made of white knitting cotton. It requires two yards of flat or three yards of round web.
Secure a piece of stick or better still a piece of half-inch dowel ten or twelve inches long, for a
handle. Cut a groove with a knife around one end to keep the web from slipping off.
Sew the web into loops three and a half or four inches long. Draw them in around the end of the
handle with the sewing string just in the groove; then wind the sewing string around two or three
times, tie, and clip off the ends.
[Pg 72]
[Pg 73]
Doll’s Hammock
This is made of flat web. A hammock eight by twelve inches requires five and one-half yards.
Sew this into an oblong piece twelve inches long and eight inches wide.
Secure a piece of cardboard three inches longer than the oblong piece and one inch wider.
Round off the corners with a pair of scissors (see illustration), and cut notches or slits in ends
one-half inch apart. Sew two brass rings in the center of one side, and on the other baste the
oblong piece which is to be used for the hammock. Then with a needle and a long piece of the
knitting cotton begin making the ends of the hammock by securing one end of the sewing string
to the hammock and bring it over the end of the cardboard in the first slit from the end and
through the ring on the opposite side of cardboard; back over cardboard, through second slit and
through hammock.
So continue until one end is finished. Do the same with the other end. These strings may be held
in place by putting three or four rows of weaving just underneath the rings.
Clip the basting stitches and remove from the cardboard. Make fringe as for shawl.
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