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amigurumi doll

Copyright Marina Voronina,

Bobdena 2016.
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Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/ru/shop/BobdenaShop?ref=hdr_shop_menu

Crochet pattern for a genuine Cinderella doll by

Marina Voronina / Bobdena. Copyright Marina Voronina, Bobdena 2016.

Congratulations on you purchase of a Cinderella doll pattern. There has been put
much effort in making this pattern. I hope you enjoy making your own beautiful
princess Cinderella doll.

CONTAKT INFO
Never hesitate to contact me through Etsy shop if you have any questions with regards to this
pattern, I will do all I can to help you as best as I can! I would love
to see your nished doll as well. You can send it to me by e-mail or share it on my Facebook page
for others to admire as well.

e-mail: bobdena88@gmail.com
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100014533539452

NOTE: the guide is intended for personal use. Do not use for commercial purposes. Any
distribution, copying, forwarding, selling and modify instruction is prohibited. You may sell the
items made according to this pattern, provided that you credit Marina Voronina / Bobdena

I took a very detailed photo pattern (row after row) to make everything
Clear even for the beginners :)
Skills level: intermediate
Skills you will need:
Magic ring (alternative for magic ring: Make chain 2. Work 6sc in rst chain), crocheting in rounds,
crocheting in rows, chain stitch, slip stitch, single crochet stitch, double crochet stitch, half double
crochet stitch, decreasing (regular or invisible on you desire), increasing, crocheting through back
loops or front loops only.
Materials :
I used yarn of different manufacturers: ALIZE Cotton Gold yarn (55% cotton, 45% acrylic.
100 g = about 330 m) , YARN ART Jeans (55% cotton, 45% acrylic 50g = about 160 m) ,
VITA COTTON Rose (100% cotton , 50g = about 150 m) , 4 different colors.

IMPORTANT NOTE: the WIG should t perfectly when using the same or similar yarn and same hook
size as for the HEAD (see gauge below)

ALIZE Cotton Gold

Skin color: 30g - for the head, neck, arms and legs
Blue color: 57g - for the body, skirt and slippers

YARN ART Jeans

Gold color: 22 g - for the wig and hairstyle

VITA COTTON Rose

Light blue color: 20g - for the upper skirt, sleeves, gloves and decoration of the bottom of the skirt

* Hook size US 1 ( 2.5 mm)

* Polyester ber ll (or ng of your choice)
* 2 black 6 mm (0,2 inch) safety eyes, or 2 half beads, or black yarn to embroider,
when the doll is made for a baby
* Cardboard for the soles
* Narrow satin ribbon to embellish the heck and the hairstyle: black color about 11 cm
(4, 5 inch) and blue color about 15 cm (6 inch)
* Sewing thread to sew on the wig, hair strands and satin ribbons
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* Tapestry needle

* Sewing needle

* Stitch marker

* Pins

* Scissor

* Optional: wooden spoon/chopstick

MEASUREMENTS
Using the stated hook size and yarns, your doll will turn out about 29 cm (11,4 inch) from the feet to the top
of the head. And about 32 cm (12,5 inch ), with top hair style included.

GAUGE
Gauge for the doll: 7 single crochet stitches x 8 rounds to 1 inch
(hook size US 1 or 2,5 mm)
Gauge for the wig: 7 single crochet (FL(O)/ BL(O)) stitches x 8 rows to 1 inch
(hook size US 1 or 2,5 mm)
Abbreviations used:
Pattern is written using standard US crocheting terms:

BL(O) = back loop (only) = crochet through back loops only. If BL(O) is marked after the round
number, crochet the entire round through BL(O). If BL(O) is in the middle of a sentence between
commas, crochet only the indicated stitches BL(O).
Ch = chain stitch

N Ch = make N chain stitches

dec = SC decrease (SC 2 stitches together) = invisible decrease = (insert hook into FLO of the
indicated st and into FLO of next st, YO, pull through both front loops, YO, pull through both loops on
hook = regular decrease = (crochet next 2 stitches together into 1 stitch by pulling up a loop
through both stitches and crocheting the loops together)

dec (BL) = SC decrease (SC 2 stitches together into back loop)= invisible decrease into back
loop = (insert hook into BL(O) of the indicated stitch and into BL(O) of next stitch, YO, pull through
both back loops, YO, pull through both loops on hook

DC = double crochet = (YO, insert hook in indicated st, YO, pool through loop, (YO, pool through 2
loops) twice.

hdc = half double crochet = (YO, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull through loop, YO, pull through
all 3 loops on hook)

N SC / N DC / N hdc / N slst = crochet one SC / DC/ hdc / slst in the following N stitches

( N sts ) = number of stitches after nishing this round / row

SC = single crochet = (Insert hook in indicated stitch, YO, pull through loop, YO and pull through
both loops on hook)

st(s) = stitch(es)

slst = slip stitch = ( insert hook in indicated stitch, YO and pull through both loops on hook)
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inc = SC increase (2 SC into the same stitch)

FL(O) = front loop (only) = crochet through front loops only. If FL(O) is marked
after the round number, crochet the entire round through FL(O). If FL(O) is in the middle of a
sentence between commas, crochet only the indicated sts FL(O).

[…] x N - repeat instructions described in the brackets N times in that round

fasten off = Cut the yarn, leaving about a 4 (10 cm) tail, and pull this tail all the way through the top
of the last stitch made.

PF = puff stitch = YO, insert hook into next st, YO, pull yarn through (loops on hook = 3), YO, pull
through 2 loops (loops remaining on hook = 2) , [YO, insert hook into the same st, YO, pull through,
YO, pull through 2 loops] x3 (loops remaining on hook = 5), YO, pull yarn through all 5 loops.
Continue to crochet as usual and push a bobble stitch outward.

Rd(s) = round(s)
rem= remain / remaining
Row(s) = row(s)
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
YO = yarn over
Special crochet techniques
Crochet in spiral rounds
When you crochet in spiral rounds you do not turn or join the round. Use a stitch marker to mark the
beginning of each round. Move the marker up each time you start a new round.
Alternative for stitch marker: you can use different colored yarn for stitch markers too, just place it
into the rst stitch of every row/round as you go.

Crochet in rows
When you crochet rows you need to turn your work, make 1 (2) turning chain(s), if the next row starts
witha SC (hdc). If the turning chain(s) count as stitch or not is indicated in the row.

Closing upa piece of circular crochet

When you nish workinga piece of circular crochet that forms a 3-D-object, you must close the small
hole that remains. This is normally completed after stuf ng the piece.
1) Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn end. Draw the end through the nal loop on the hook and thread
it onto a tapestry needle.
2) Insert the needle under the front loop of each stitch around the opening, so the needle goes from
the center of the hole to the outside.
3) Pull the tail tight to close the hole. To weave in the loose end insert the needle through the middle
of the ring you've created and push it through the crochet piece. Cut off the end.

SOME USEFUL HINTS

1. Stitch count is given in each row/round so you can check your work.
2. Crochet tightly so you get a clean and rm surface and no lling can shine through. If you
crochet very loose, choose a smaller hook size.
3. You can choose a different kind of yarn with a different gauge. Adjust hook size accordingly. The
measurements of the doll will also change.
4. Fill the doll with ber ll as you go. The rmer as you stuff, the rmer your doll will turn out.
5. If you need to change color, do it always at the end of the previous round. Start the last stitch of
the round with the old color. Change the color right before you draw through all loops on hook to
complete stitch.
6. And don't forget have fun!))
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START HERE …
Please, read the whole pattern through properly, so you have a good overview.

Directions
Slippers and legs (make 2 of them)
Hook US 1 or 2,5 mm
Start with 7 Ch blue yarn

Work in spiral rounds.

Rd 1 start from the 2nd Ch from the hook - 5 , 3 SC in last Ch , continue in
the circle direction along the opposite side of the beginning Ch , 4 SC, 2 SC
in last stitch (14 sts ) (photo 1)
Rd 2 [ 1 inc, 4 SC, 1 inc, 1 SC ] x 2 (18 sts) (photo 2)
Rd 3 [ 1 inc, 6 SC, 1 inc, 1 SC ] x 2 (22 sts) (photo 3)
Rd 4 [ 1 inc, 8 SC, 1 inc, 1 SC ] x 2 (26 sts) (photo 4)

Rd 5 BL(O) SC in each stitch around (26 sts) Only the back loop ! (photo 5)
Rds 6 – 7 SC in each stitch around (26 sts) (photo 6)

TIP! When you start lling the legs (later!) the soles bulge out. Try to use cardboard in the bottom of the sole,
so the sole will be at. Cut two pieces of cardboard in size of the sole (photo 7). Put aside for later.

Rd 8 8 SC, 5 dec, 8 SC (21 sts)

Change color to skin (photo 8)
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7 8
Put the cardboard inside the sole.

Rd 9 BL(O) 8 SC, 3 dec, 7 SC (18 sts) Only the back loop ! (photo 9)
Rd 10 8 SC, 1 dec, 8 SC (17 sts)

Start to stuff the leg.

TIP! Add a bit of ng after every few rounds to distribute it evenly. Stuff the legs quite rmly. (photo 10)
Rd 11 4 SC, 1 dec, 5 SC, 1 dec, 4 SC (15 sts) (photo 11)
Rd 12 1 dec, 13 SC (14 sts) (photo 12)

9 10

11 12
Rds 13 - 21 SC in each stitch around (14 sts)
Rd 22 [ 6 SC , 1 inc ] x 2 (16 sts)
Rd 23 SC in each stitch around (16 sts)
Rd 24 [ 7 SC , 1 inc ] x 2 (18 sts)
Rd 25 SC in each stitch around (18 sts)
Rd 26 [ 8 SC , 1 inc ] x 2 (20 sts)
Rds 27 - 28 SC in each stitch around (20 sts)
Rd 28 1 slst (1sts)
Fasten off and work the second leg the same way. Stuff the leg rmly with polyester bre ll.
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Body
Hook US 1 or 2,5
mm blue yarn
Work the body in spiral rounds.
When you've nished both legs hold them side-by-side. Now SC together one ST of the rst and
the second leg at time to connect both legs. Here is the new beginning of all following rounds. Now
work 40 SC across of the both legs (= 1st round of the body).
After that you should be right between the legs facing the backside of the body. (photo 13 –18)

14 15 16
13
Rd 2 10 SC , 1 inc, 18 SC , 1 inc , 10 SC (42 sts)
Rd 3 10 SC , 1 inc , 20 SC, 1 inc, 10 SC (44 sts) 17
Rd 4 1 inc , 43 SC (45 sts)
Rd 5 [ 14 SC , 1 inc ] x 3 (48 sts)
Rds 6 - 7 SC in each stitch around (48 sts)

Rd 8 [ 15 SC , 1 inc ] x 3 (51 sts)

Rds 9 - 13 SC in each stitch around (51 sts)

TIP! Its easier to ll in some ng material while you are working out the
body decreases – when it's nished it is harder to stuff the body tight, because of
the small opening at the end. 18
Start decrease rounds
Rd 14 [ 1 dec , 15 SC ] x 3 (48 sts)
Rd 15 BL(O) 48 SC (48 sts) Back loop only !
Rd 16 SC in each stitch around (48 sts)
Rd 17 [ 1 dec , 14 SC ] x 3 (45 sts)
Rd 18 SC in each stitch around (45 sts)
Rd 19 [ 1 dec , 13 SC] x 3 (42 sts)
Rd 20 SC in each stitch around (42 sts) (photo 19)
Rd 21 [ 1 dec , 12 SC ] x 3 (39 sts)
Rd 22 SC in each stitch around (39 sts) 19
Rd 23 [ 1 dec , 11 SC ] x 3 (36 sts)
Rd 24 SC in each stitch around (36 sts)
Rd 25 [ 10 SC, 1 dec ] x 3 (33 sts)
Rd 26 SC in each stitch around (33 sts)
Rd 27 [ 9 SC, 1 dec ] x 3 (30 sts)
Rds 28 – 29 SC in each stitch around (30 sts)
Change color to skin
Rd 30 BL(O) [ 8 SC, 1 dec ] x 3 Back loop only ! (27 sts)
Rd 31 SC in each stitch around (27 sts)
Rd 32 [ 7 SC , 1 dec ] x 3 (24 sts)
Rds 33 – 35 SC in each stitch around (24 sts)

Fasten off and. Leave a long tail for sewing (30cm / 12 inches).
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Skirt
Hook US 1 ( 2,5 mm ) , blue yarn
Work the skirt in spiral rounds.
th
The skirt is crocheted directly on the body in the free loops made on 15 round of the body. Lay
your doll with the backside facing you (photo 20). Insert your hook in the rst loop in the center of the
st
back and pull up a thread (photo 21, 22). Start to crochet 1 round of the skirt (photo 23), and
continue with the rest of the skirt.

20 21 22 23
Rd 1 pull up a thread in the rst loop and make 1 starting Ch, 1 SC in same loop
where you pulled up your thread, 1 hdc , 2 DC in next st , [ 2 DC, 2 DC in
next st ] x 15 (64 sts)
Rd 2 [ 3 DC , 2 DC in next st ] x 16 (80 sts)
Rd 3 [ 4 DC , 2 DC in next st ] x 16 (96 sts)
Rd 4 [ 5 DC , 2 DC in next st ] x 16 (112 sts)
Rd 5 [ 6 DC , 2 DC in next st ] x 16 (128 sts)
Rd 6 [ 7 DC , 2 DC in next st ] x 16 (144 sts)
Rd 7 [ 8 DC , 2 DC in next st ] x 16 (160 sts)
Rd 8 [ 9 DC , 2 DC in next st ] x 16 (176 sts)
Rd 9 [ 10 DC , 2 DC in next st ] x 16 (192 sts)
Rd 10 [ 11 DC , 2 DC in next st ] x 16 (208 sts)
Rds 11 – 13 DC in each st around (208 sts)
Rd 14 DC in each st around , before you are reached the end , the last six
stitches: 3 hdc, 3 SC (208 sts)

Change color to light blue

st
Rd 15 [ 2 SC , 4 Ch, 1 stitch skip ] repeat around , 1 slst in 1 SC
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Upper skirt (make 1)

Hook US 1 or 2,5 mm, light blue yarn
Work the upper skirt in spiral rounds.

Start with 45 Ch, join to make a circle (photo 24)

Rd 1 1 Ch , 1 SC in each stitch around (45 sts ) (photo 25)
Rds2 – 4 [ 5 Ch , 1 SC ] x 44 , skip last stitch (photo 26, 27)
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24 25 26 27
Rd 5 [ 3 Ch , 1 SC ] x 44 , skip last stitch
Rd 5a 2 Ch , 1 SC

28
Fasten off and weave in ends.

The arms with gloves and sleeves

(make 2 of them)
Hook US1 or 2,5 mm, light blue yarn

Work the hands in spiral rounds.

Rd 1 magic ring : 1 Ch (does not count as st), 6 SC (6 sts) 29

Rd 2 inc in each stitch around (12 sts)
Rd 3 [ 3 SC, inc ] x 3 (15 sts)
Rds 4 – 6 SC each stitch around (15 sts)
Rd 7 1 SC , 1 PF , 13 SC (15 sts)(photo 29)
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30 31 32 33
Rd 8 1 dec , 13 SC (14 sts)
Rd 9 1 dec , 12 SC (13 sts)
Rd 10 6 SC , 1 dec , 5 SC (12 sts)

Start to ll little the arm and continue to ll till the end of work

Rd 11 4 SC , 1 dec , 6 SC (11 sts)

Rd 12 9 SC , 1 dec (10 sts)
Rds 13 – 21 SC in each stitch around (10 sts)

Change color to skin

Rd 22 BL(O) SC in each stitch around (10 sts) back loop only !
Rds 23 – 29 SC in each stitch around (10 sts)

Change color to light blue

Rd 30 SC in each stitch around (10 sts)
Rd 31 BL(O) SC in each stitch around (10 sts) back loop only !
Rd 32 3 SC in each stitch around (30 sts)
Rds 33 – 36 SC in each stitch around (30 sts)

Rd 37 [ 3 SC, 1 dec ] x 6 (24 sts)

Rd 38 [ 2 SC, 1 dec ] x 6 (18 sts)
Rd 39 [ 1 SC, 1 dec ] x 6 (12 sts)
Now ll some soft stuf ng into the sleeve
Rd 40 1 dec x 6 (6 sts ) (photo 30)
Fasten off. Close the hole as described on page 4.
Do not weave in end; use it for later to sew the arm onto the body.

Decoration of the arms: (photo 31, 32, 33, 34)

Attach the light blue yarn to the 1st front loop of the row 22 and crochet row of hdc,
join slst in the 1st hds.
Fasten off and wave the yarn.

Attach the light blue yarn to the 1st front loop

of the row 31 and crochet row of hdc,
join slst in the 1st hds.
Fasten off and wave the yarn.

Work the same way for the second arm. (photo 35)
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34 35
HAIRSTYLE
The hairstyle consists of 3 parts: wig, top of hairstyle Staring chain-Front view
and bang of hair.
Every part has a hair strands. To make the hair strands
we will work SC and hdc into back loops of the chain
stitches.
Note : all the chains of the hair style start crochet into
one back loop of the chain stitch
( BL(O)) ! See the photo 36. Every row begins from
the second stitch from the hook.

36

WIG (make 1)
Hook US1 or 2,5 mm, gold yarn
TIP! Crochet the wig rst before you have nish of the head, because:
the WIG should t perfectly when using the same yarn as for the head. However, it also depends on how tight
you stuffed the head. You may need to add or remove ng a little bit, to make it t.
When crocheting the wig from different yarn you might have to make adjustments to the pattern to make it
t.

Work the wig in rows.

Shaping is accomplished with short rows. Make a short row by working only some of the stitches in the
previous row and leaving the remainder unworked. These unworked stitches are then used in a later long
row.

Note: when you crochet rows you need to turn your work, make 1 turning chain (does not count as a
stitch), the next row starts with a SC or hdc.
The slip stitch in the rows count as a stitch. Do not work the slst too tight. See also photos 38 – 41 ( RS)
how to work.

The wig includes 6 of hair strands, 3 on each side.

For the wig you start with 37 Ch

Row 1 (WS) BL(O) (start from the 2nd Ch from the hook) , 19 hdc, 7 SC, 1 slst -
( 27 sts ) (photo 37) , 1 Ch, turn the work

Note: 9 Ch left unworked.

Row 2 FL(O) 7 SC, 1 slst ( in the both loops ) (8 sts) , 20 Ch (19 Ch for a hair
strand + 1 turning Ch) (photo 38, 39, 40, 41, 42) , turn the work
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2

37 38

39 40

41 42
Row 3 BL(O) 19 hdc , BL(O) 7 SC , 1 SC , continue in the remaining chains of the
beginning chain : 1 SC, 1 slst (29 sts) (photo 43, 44, 45), 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 4 FL (O) 12 SC , 1 slst (13 sts), 17 Ch (16 Ch for a hair strand + 1 turning Ch)
(photo 46) , turn the work
43 44 45 46
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3
Row 5 BL(O 16 hdc, BL(O) 12 SC, 1 SC (photo 47) , continue in the remaining
chains of the beginning chain : 1 SC, 1 slst (31 sts) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 6 FL(O) 13 SC, 1 slst ( 14 sts ) , 8 Ch ( 7 Ch for the wig + 1 turning Ch ), turn
the work (photo 48)
Row 7 BL(O) 20 SC, 1 SC, continue in the remaining chains of the beginning chain :
1 SC, 1 slst (23 sts) (photo 49) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 8 FL(O) 23 SC (23 sts) (photo 50) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 9 BL(O) 22 SC , 1 SC ,continue in the remaining chains of the beginning chain :
1 SC, 1 slst (25 sts) , 1 Ch, turn the work

47 48 49 50

Row 10 FL(O) 25 SC (25 sts) (photo 51) , 1 Ch , turn the work

Row 11 BL(O) 24 SC, 1 SC, and in the last remaining chain of the beginning chain :
1 slst (26 sts) (photo 52) , 1 Ch , turn the work
Row 12 FL(O) 26 SC (26 sts) , 1 Ch , turn the work
Row 13 BL(O) 16 SC , 1 slst (17 sts) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 14 FL(O) 17 SC (17 sts) , 1 Ch , turn the work
th
Row 15 BL(O) 16 SC, 1 SC, continue in the remaining stitches of the 12 row :
1 SC , 1 slst (19 sts) (photo 53) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 16 FL(O) 19 SC (19 sts) , 1 Ch , turn the work
Row 17 BL(O) 18 SC, 1 SC, continue in the remaining stitches of the 12th row :
1 SC , 1 slst (21 sts) (photo 54) , 1 Ch , turn the work

51 52 53 54
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4
Row 18 FL(O) 21 SC (21 sts) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 19 BL(O) 20 SC , 1 SC, continue in the remaining stitches of the 12th row:
1 SC , 1 slst (23 sts) (photo 55) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 20 FL(O) 23 SC (23 sts) , 1 Ch , turn the work
Row 21 BL(O) 22 SC, 1 SC, continue in remaining stitches of the 12th row:
1 SC , 1 slst (25 sts) (photo 56), 1 Ch , turn the work
Row 22 FL(O) 25 SC (25 sts) , 1 Ch , turn the work
th
Row 23 BL(O) 24 SC, 1 SC, continue in the last stitch of the 12 row :1 slst
(26 sts) (photo 57) , 1 Ch , turn the work
Row 24 FL(O) 26 SC (26 sts) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 25 BL(O) 23 SC, 1 slst ( 24 sts ) (photo 58) , 1 Ch, turn the work

55 56 57 58
Row 26 FL(O) 24 SC (24 sts) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 27 BL(O) 21 SC, 1 slst (22 sts) (photo 59) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 28 FL(O) 22 SC (22 sts) , 1 Ch , turn the work
Row 29 BL(O) 19 SC, 1 slst (20 sts) (photo 60), 1 Ch , turn the work
Row 30 FL(O) 20 SC (20 sts) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 31 BL(O) 17 SC , 1 slst (18 sts) (photo 61) , 1 Ch, turn the work
Row 32 FL(O) 18 SC (18 sts) , 1 Ch , turn the work
Row 33 BL(O) 15 SC , 1 slst (16 sts) (photo 62), 1 Ch , turn the work

59 60 61 62
Row 34 FL(O) 16 SC (16 sts) , 1 Ch , turn the work
Row 35 BL(O) 15 SC, 1 SC, continue along the edge into each of the 2 unworked
sts of every short row (use photo 63 as a guide) : 9 SC , 1 slst in the last st
(26 sts) (photo 64) , 1 Ch , turn the work
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5
slst SC SC
SC
SC SC

63 64

Row 36 FL(O) 26 SC (26 sts) , 1 Ch, turn the work

Row 37 BL(O) 23 SC , 1 slst (24 sts) (photo 65) , 1 Ch, turn the work

Row 38 FL(O) 24 SC (24 sts) , 1 Ch , turn the work

Row 39 BL(O) 21 SC, 1 slst (22 sts) (photo 66) , 1 Ch, turn the work

Row 40 FL(O) 22 SC (22 sts) , 1 Ch, turn the work

Row 41 BL (O) 19 SC, 1 slst (20 sts) (photo 67) , 1 Ch , turn the work

Row 42 FL(O) 12 SC , 1 slst (13 sts) , 17 Ch ( 16 Ch for a hair strand +

1 turning Ch ) , turn the work
Row 43 16 hdc, BL (O) 10 SC, 1 slst (27 sts) (photo 68), 1 Ch, turn the work

65 66 67 68
Row 44 FL(O) 11 SC, 1 slst (12 sts), 17 Ch ( 16 Ch for a hair strand
+ 1 turning Ch ) , turn the work
Row 45 19 hdc, BL (O) 6 SC, 1 slst (26 sts) (photo 69), 1 Ch, turn the work

Row 46 FL(O) 6 SC , 1 slst (7 sts) , 20 Ch ( 19 Ch for a hair strand +

1 turning Ch ), turn the work

Row 47 BL(O) 19 hdc , 6 hdc, 1 SC, continue along the edge into each of the 2
unworked sts of every short row (use photo 70, 71 as a guide) : 9 ,
1 slst in the last stitch (36 sts) (photo 72)
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6

69 70
71 72
slst SC SC SC SC SC

Fasten off, leaving a 10 cm (4 inch) tail to tight the upper edge later.

Top of the hairstyle (make 1)

Hook US 1 or 2,5 mm, gold yarn
Work in rounds
Rd 1 Start with 7 SC in a magic ring (7sts)
Rd 2 2 SC in each st around (14 sts)
Rd 3 1 SC n each st around (14 sts)
Do not cut the yarn and turn the work.
From now we will crochet 15 hair strands, follow the pattern instruction. Crochet them in the edge stitches of
the 3rd row. You have to work SC and hdc in chain stitches: work all of the stitches into one back loop of the
chain stitches BL(O).

Each hair strand work following way ( photo 73, 74, 75):
Hair strand: [27 Ch, BL(O) 1 SC in 2nd Ch from the hook, BL(O) 1 SC in the next Ch ,
BL(O) 24 hdc , 1 slst in the next st of 3rd round ( in the both loops) ] repeat 15 times
around (photo 76, 77)
Fasten off, leaving a 4”/10 cm tail for assemble.
73 74 75 76
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7
77

Bang of hair (make 1)

Hook US1 or 2,5 mm, gold yarn
For the bang of hair we'll start from magic ring and then
crochet 10 hair strands.

Row 1 Start 2 Ch (does not count as st), and 4 DC in

a magic ring. Tight the magic ring (4 sts)
(photo 78, 79), 2 turning Ch, turn the work

Row 2 2 DC in each stitch (8 sts) (photo 80) ,

2 turning Ch, turn the work

Row 3 [ 2 Dc , 2 DC in next st ] x 2 , 2 Dc (10 sts),

turn the work

Now we will to crochet 10 hair strands along the edge, follow the pattern instruction. Crochet them in the edge
stitches of the 3rd row. You have to work SC and hdc in the chain stitches: work all of the stitches into one
back loop of the chain stitches BL(O).

Each hair strand work following way (photo 81, 82):

Hair strand: [ 21 Ch, BL(O) 1 SC in the 2nd Ch from the hook , BL(O) 1 SC in the
next st , BL(O) 18 hdc , 1 slst in next st of the 3rd row ] repeat 10 times

78 79 80 81

SC

SC
SC
SC
SC
SC

slst

82 83 84 85
Do not turn and cut the yarn, work a nal row along the lateral edges of the bang of hair,
anticlockwise direction (use photo 85 as a guide) 5 SC , 2 SC in the center of magic ring and then
anticlockwise direction : 5 SC, 1 slst
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8
Fasten off, leave a long tail about 20 cm / 8 inch for
assemble.
86

Head (make 1)
Hook US1 or 2,5 mm, skin -color yarn

Work the head in spiral rounds

For the head you start with 15 CH.

Rd 1 … start from the 2nd Ch from the hook and crochet along the chain -
13 SC , 3 SC into the last Ch , continue in the circle direction along the
opposite side of the chain: 12 SC, 2 SC in the last Ch (30 sts)(photo 87, 88)

87 88

Rd 2 1 inc , 12 SC , 3 inc , 12 SC , 2 inc (36 sts) (photo 89)

Rd 3 1 SC , 1 inc , 12 SC , [ 1 SC , 1 inc ] x 3 , 12 SC , [1 SC ,1 inc] x2 (42 sts) (photo 90)

89 90
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9
Rd 4 [ 1 SC , 1 inc ]x 2 , 5 SC , 1 inc , 6 SC , 1 inc ,[ 1 SC , 1 inc ]x 3,
6 SC , 1 inc , 7 SC , 1 inc , 1 SC , 1 inc , 2 SC (52 sts)(photo 91)
Rd 5 [ 1 SC , 1 inc ] x 2 , 7 SC , 1 inc , 1 SC , 1 inc , 7 SC, 1 inc,
[ 1 SC , 1 inc ] x 4 , 7 SC , 1 inc , 1 SC , 1 inc , 7 SC, 1 inc,
1 SC , 1 inc , 2 SC (65 sts) (photo 92)
Rd 6 [ 12 SC , inc ] x 5 (70 sts) (photo 93)
Rds 7 – 17 SC in each stitch around (70 sts)
Start decrease rounds
Rd 18 [ 8 SC , dec ] x 7 (63 sts)
Rd 19 SC in each stitch around (63 sts)
Rd 20 [ 7 SC , dec ] x 7 (56 sts)
Safety eyes:
Attach the eyes between round 11 and 12 with 10 stitches space between
(photo 94) . Poke the eye shafts through to the inside of the head and fasten with
the washers that came with them. 91

94

92 93
Rd 21 SC in each stitch around (56 sts)
Rd 22 [ 6 SC , dec ] x 7 (49 sts)
Rd 23 SC in each stitch around (49 sts)
Rd 24 [ 5 SC , dec ] x 7 (42 sts)
Start to ll the head.
Rd 25 SC in each stitch around (42 sts)
Rd 26 [ 4 SC , dec ] x 7 (35 sts)
Rd 27 SC in each stitch around (35 sts)
95
It’ s time to stuff the head tight, before we are nish the top of the head.
TIP! Stuf ng gives the right shape to the head. Try to stuff the head with larger pieces of lling at a time,
instead of adding little pieces. Adding too little pieces may cause a lumpy head.
Rd 28 [ 3 SC , dec ] x 7 (28 sts), Rd 29 [ 2 SC , dec ] x 7 (21 sts)

Tip: it is time to try the 96 97

wig on the head. You
may need to add
or remove stuf ng a
little bit, to make it t.
(photo 97)

Rd 30 [ 1 SC , dec ] x 7 (14 sts), Rd 31 [ 1 dec ] x 7 (7 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 4”/10 cm tail. Close the hole as described on page 4. (photo 98,99)
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98 99

Assembling all the parts

Step 1: UPPER SKIRT AND BODY
Put (from the neck) the upper skirt on the body.
You can fasten it on the waistline with a few stitches, if you desire.

Step 2: HEAD AND BODY

Make a neat nish of the body. Thread the yarn into the tapestry
needle. Skip one stitch and insert the needle into the next stitch
back to front through both loops. Insert the needle from the top of
the last stitch between loops and bring the yarn into the backside.
Pull the yarn until the loop is the same size as other stitches. 100
Use photos 101, 102, 103, 104 as a guide.

101

102

103

104
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106

105
107

Make sure the body is stuffed rmly, especially the neck (it's even
better to overstuff the neck for extra strength) and sew the head
onto the body.

Tip: Use sewing pins to attach the head to the body before sewing
to get a symmetrical result. Add a bit more ng before closing
the seam. (photo 105, 106, 107)

A great video how to do an almost invisible join in amigurumi ,

when you join an open ended piece to a closed piece you can nd
here:

Step 3: ARMS AND BODY

Sew both the arms at the round 37 of the hands and at the round 31
of the body with the thumbs pointing forward. The photo 108
shows a line when sewing the left hand to the body.
108

Step 4: WIG AND BANG OF HAIR

Close the upper edge of the wig (3 sts between beginning chain and last row) from right side. Use tapestry
needle. Insert the needle through the front loop of each stitch along the upper edge.
Pull the tail tight. (photo 110)

Position the wig on the head. Fasten the wig with some sewing pins rst to nd the right placement. Position
the bang of hair on the head (hair strands are folded up). Fasten the bang of hair with some sewing pins. Sew
the edges of the wig and the bang of hair together. Use tapestry needle and yarn tail of the bang of hair. Insert
the needle both through the front loop of the nal row of the bang of hair and the chain and row 47 of the wig.
(Photo 109, 110, 111, 112)
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109

110

111

112

Step 5: HEAD AND WIG

Sew the wig onto the head along the edge; use sewing needle and sewing thread. Do not sew the hair strands to
the head; we will do it later. Use the photo 113 as a guide.

Step 6: STYLING BUNGS

Folded by two lateral strands on each side towards each other, secure the position with few stitches using
sewing thread and sewing needle. Insert the tapestry needle with the yarn thread through the ends loops of each
remaining strand, pull the thread (photo 114, 115 116), bend up (the lateral strands will be in), and attach the
ends of yarn in the middle of the forehead with a few stitches. Use photo below as a guide.

113 114
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115 116

Step 7: WIG AND TOP HAIRSTYLE

Position the top hairstyle on the head (hair strands are folded up). Fasten the
top hairstyle with some sewing pin. Sew the top of hairstyle on the wig, use
tapestry needle and the yarn tail of the top of hairstyle.
Use photo below as a guide.

117 118

Step 8: TOP HAIRSTYLE AND WIG

Wig: fasten the ends of the hair strands to the wig with sewing pin to get a symmetrical result; attach the ends
of the hair strands to the wig a few stitches, using sewing thread and sewing needle.
Top of hairstyle: you have a choice not sew the hair strands of the top (you can then change the hairstyle), do
hairstyle like a real hair. Feel you like a designer)) !!!. Use photo (119-127) as a guide how to make the
hairstyle.
119 120
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4

121 122

123 124

125 126
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127

Step 8: Embellish the top of hairstyle and the neck with satin ribbons. Secure them with a few stitches using
sewing thread and sewing needle.

TIP: If you are using satin ribbon, burn the ends slightly with a lighter. This prevents the ribbon from
diverging.

Step 9: Blush your Cinderella cheeks by using pink blush. Tap a cotton bud on the blush, gently tap the excess
and put the blush on her cheeks.

Step 10: manually form the pleats of the skirt.