In late summer my garden is draped with large, perfectly

spun webs and their frighteningly huge spiders. While I

marvel at the skill of these spinners, and know it’s just my
imagination, I can’t help feeling that one of them has snuck
up behind me and is crawling up the back of my leg…

The Gardener

These toe-up socks use Cat Bordhi’s sole-hugging “Riverbed” architecture in which
the v-shaped arch expansion runs under the sole. A twisted stitch pattern of budding
vines runs up the front of the leg and a giant spider crawls up the back. The lace cuff
edging is knit sideways and attached to the body of the sock as the lace is knit.

© Leslie Comstock 2008. All rights reserved

Supplies
Yarn 1 skein fingering-weight yarn (100g/350 yards). Solid or semi-solid color will work best for
this pattern. Sample was knit with Shelridge Farm’s Soft Touch Ultra, green apple.
Needles  2mm (US 0) 32” or longer circular needle or size needed to obtain correct gauge. Instruc-
tions are written for “Magic Loop” but two circulars or a set of dpns could be used instead
 2 double-pointed needles (dpns) of the same size (for knitting the cuff)

Notions  Smooth, fingering-weight scrap yarn for cuff’s provisional cast-on (about 12-18”)
 Crochet hook in appropriate size for the provisional cast on
 Needle for weaving in ends

Gauge & Size Note that the lace panels in the Vines pattern make these socks relatively stretchy.

Gauge Finished Measurements (unstretched)

Circumference: At ball of foot: 7.5”

8 sts/inch At top of instep: 9.5”
10.5 rounds/inch At cuff: 8”

In stockinette Length: Foot: adjustable

Leg: 9.5”

Techniques & References

Judy’s Magic Cast-on http://tinyurl.com/knitty-magiccaston
http://tinyurl.com/youtube-MagicCastOn
Kitchener (grafting) http://tinyurl.com/knitty-kitchener
Provisional Cast-on http://tinyurl.com/youtube-ProvisionalCastOn
Twisted sts without a http://tinyurl.com/stringornothing-twisted
cable needle http://tinyurl.com/knitty-minicables (summary at end of article provides several
methods for working knit-on-knit and knit-on-purl cables)
Riverbed Architecture Cat Bordhi’s New pathways for Sock Knitters, Book One, p 91
Reinforced heel Cat Bordhi’s New pathways for Sock Knitters, Book One, pp 124-126
Short Rows: http://tinyurl.com/youtube-WrapTurnConceal-Part1
Wrapping & Concealing http://tinyurl.com/youtube-WrapTurnConceal-Part2

Pattern Stitch Sources

The Spider Barbara Walker’s Charted Knitting Designs, p35
Vines 1000 Knitting Patterns Book (A Japanese Stitch Dictionary)
Loop and Braid edging Karen Hemingway’s Super Stitches Knitting, p 126

© Leslie Comstock 2008. All rights reserved

Toe
Cast on 22 stitches (11 on each needle) using Judy’s Magic Cast-on (see reference list for instructions) or
method you prefer.

Starting with 1st row after cast on, work increase rounds (see below) until there are 19 sts on each needle
(38 sts total).

Increase round: * kfb, k to 1st st before end of ndl, kfb, k; repeat from * for sts on 2nd needle

Then work the following two rounds until there are 31 sts on each needle (62 sts total)
Round 1: increase round
Round 2: K

Foot
Ndl 1: (31 instep sts) Work in Vines pattern (use “setup” row for 1st rnd, the 20-row repeat for following rnds).
Ndl 2: (31 sole sts) Work in plain stockinette.

If you didn’t knit a gauge swatch, stop knitting after a couple of inches and determine your row gauge (rows
per inch) over the sole sts.

Toe section length calculation

Where a “normal” heel-flap type of sock has gussets along the sides, the increases in this pattern take place
on the bottom of the sole, forming a V-shape that makes the sock hug your arch and heel. This positioning of
increases is based on Cat Bordhi’s “Riverbed” sock architecture. To determine how long to knit the toe sec-
tion before beginning the increases you’ll need to calculate the total length of the increase and heel sections
and subtract it from your foot length. In the increase section, you’ll increase 2 sts for every 3 rounds — it will
take 40 rounds to increase the required 28 sts . The heel section will take another 17 rows.

To calculate how far to knit before starting increase rounds use the following formula:

Toe section length = your foot length — ((40 + 17) / your rows per inch)

Example: If your total foot length = 9.2” and your gauge = 10.5 rows/inch
(9.2” — (57 rows / 10.5 rows per inch) = 3.8”)
So your toe section should be approximately 3.8” long before you’d start the increase section

Increase preparation round

Once your sock reaches the toe section length you calculated above, work the next round’s instep sts in pat-
tern, then prepare for the increases by placing markers on the sole needle as follows:
k14, place marker, k3, place marker, k14.

Increase rounds
Use left and right-leaning increases (LLinc, LRinc) for increase rnds. Instructions on next page (Special Abbreviations).

Repeat the following 3 rnds until there are 31 sts between markers, ending after completing Rnd 1
(90 sts total)

Rnd 1: ndl 1 (instep): Vines

ndl 2 (sole): k to first marker, k1, LLinc; k to 1 st before 2nd marker, LRinc, k1; k to end of ndl
Rnd 2: ndl 1 (instep): Vines
ndl 2 (sole): k to end of ndl
Rnd 3: ndl 1 (instep): Vines
ndl 2 (sole): k to end of ndl

© Leslie Comstock 2008. All rights reserved

Heel
Work instep sts in Vines pattern, then knit across sole sts to 1st marker and stop. The heel will be worked on
just the stitches between the two markers.

Heel Turn
Row 1: (RS) K3, repeat *sl1, k1* until 2 sts remain before marker, w&t (see instructions for w&t below)
Row 2 (WS) P until 2 sts remain before marker, w&t
Row 3: (RS) Repeat *k1, sl1* until 3 (next rows, 5, 7, 9, etc.) sts remain before marker, w&t
Row 4: (WS) P until 3 (next rows 5, 7, 9, etc.) sts remain before marker, w&t
Row 5: (RS) Repeat *sl1, k1* until 4 (next rows 6, 8, 10 etc.) sts remain before marker, w&t
Row 6: (WS) P until 4 (next rows 6, 8, 10 etc) sts remain before marker, w&t

Repeat rows 3-6 always adding 1 to the number of sts that remain before marker after each pair of rows
until 9 sts are wrapped on each side. Last row completed is a WS P row. Note: sts nearest the markers are
not wrapped — when done, you’ll have 9 wrapped sts and 1 unwrapped st on each side.

Complete heel turn by working 2 final rows (see instructions for cw, cw-ssk, and cw-p2tog below)
(Row 1: RS) K the knit sts and slip the slipped sts up to the 1st wrapped st. Repeat *cw* until only 1 wrapped
st and the final unwrapped st remain before the marker, cw-ssk, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Sl1, p to 1st wrapped st on purl side. Work towards marker by repeating *cw* until only 1
wrapped st and the final unwrapped st remain before the marker, cw-p2tog, turn.

Sole ndl should now have 29 sts between the two markers.

Special Abbreviations
LLinc (Leaning left Increase) - Lift the left side of the stitch two rows below the stitch that was just knit (i.e., that
stitch’s grandmother) and place it on the tip of the left needle. Then knit into its back leg.

LRinc (Leaning right increase) - Lift the right side of the stitch below the next stitch (i.e., the next stitch’s mother)
and place it on the tip of the left needle. Knit it through its front leg.

Wrap/Conceal demos by Cat Bordhi:

Part 1: http://tinyurl.com/youtube-WrapTurnConceal-Part1
Part 2: http://tinyurl.com/youtube-WrapTurnConceal-Part2

Wrap & turn (w&t)

Knit side: Bring yarn between the needles to the front. Slip the next stitch knitwise. Move yarn between the needles
to the back. Slide the wrapped stitch from the right ndl tip back to the left ndl tip and turn to the purl side.
Purl side: Bring yarn between the needles to the back, slip next stitch tip-to-tip, move yarn between the needles to
the front, slide the wrapped stitch from the right tip back to the left tip and turn to the knit side

Conceal Wrap (cw )

Knit side: Insert right ndl under the wrap (from bottom to top) and lift it up, over, and to the left of the stitch it
wrapped. Then knit the stitch and wrap together through their back legs (like an ssk) If you didn’t slip the wrapped
stitch knitwise while wrapping it, slip it knitwise before the ssk when concealing the wrap.
Purl side: Insert the right needle under the wrap (from the knit side of the fabric) and lift it up, over, and to the left of
the stitch it wrapped. Then purl the wrap and stitch together (like a p2tog)

Concealing the final wraps (cw-ssk or cw-p2tog )

Lift wrap up, over, and to the left of the wrapped st as with cw. Then slide the right needle through the stitch, the
relocated wrap, and the final stitch on the left needle and knit (or purl) together like an sssk or p3tog.

© Leslie Comstock 2008. All rights reserved

Back of Heel
Row 1: (RS) Repeat *sl1,k1* until 1 st before marker (at left side of heel), ssk removing marker, turn
Row 2: (WS) Slip 1, p until 1 st before marker, p2tog removing marker, turn
Row 3: (RS) Repeat *sl1,k1* until 1 st remains before gap, ssk, turn
Row 4: (WS) S1, p until 1 st remains before gap, p2tog, turn

Repeat rows 3-4 until only 2 sts remain on outer sides of gaps (between the gap and end of ndl). Then, on
sole sts (RS) repeat *sl1,k1* until 3 sts before end of ndl, ssk, k1. Don’t turn.
Resume knitting in the round by working Vines pattern across the sts on the instep ndl. On the sole ndl, K1,
k2tog, then sl the slip sts and k the knit sts to end of ndl.

Leg
Continue working Vines up front of leg and begin working the Spider pattern up back of leg. You’ll reach the
last repeat of Vines when you’re somewhere between rounds 49 and 58 of the Spider depending on which
row of the Vines pattern you worked as the first row of the leg. For that last repeat, stop following the main
Vines chart when you reach either row 7 or 17, then complete it’s last 3 rows by using the chart provided for
rows 8-10 or 18-20. Note that it is very likely that the Spider and Vines patterns won’t both finish up in the
same round. If that happens, work “extra” purl rows on the ndl whose pattern ended early until the other pat-
tern is complete. Once both patterns are done purl one final round before beginning the cuff.

Cuff
When you finish knitting your final row of the leg leave the stitches you just worked sitting on the right-hand
needle instead of pushing them off onto the cable. The cuff, a lace edging, is knit flat (using an extra double-
pointed needle) and joined to the body of the sock as it is knit.

With a length of smooth, fingering-weight scrap yarn, a dpn of the same size as the needles used for the sock,
and a crochet hook, provisionally cast on 6 sts to the dpn. This can be done by either casting on over the dpn
(see Techniques and References for link to video) or by crocheting a chain with waste yarn, then knitting a
stitch into the back loop of each chain.

You’ll begin the cuff by inserting the sock’s right needle tip into the first provisional stitch on the dpn. Begin
row 1 of the Loop & Braid edging (see next page), working the provisional stitches from the dpn onto your
circular needle. Turn. Now work the edging stitches from the circular needle back onto the dpn with Loop and
Braid row 2. The last stitch of row 2 is an ssk which joins an edging stitch with a stitch from the leg of the
sock. Note that you’re going to work your way backwards around the leg of the sock, attaching the edging as
you go. Edging row 3 works the stitches on the dpn onto the circular needle again, the end of row 4 attaches
the edging to the sock with another ssk.

Preparing to start cuff. Right hand Begin the edging pattern First row of Loop and Braid edg- After turning, begin to
holds the ndl with the last stitches at row 1 by knitting into ing has been worked. Ready to work row 2 of the edg-
that were knit. Working yarn is at tip the 1st provisional cast- turn work and start row 2 of ing. The final ssk of row
of that needle. Dpn with the six pro- on stitch. edging. 2 will join the edging to
visional cast-on sts is on left. the sock.

© Leslie Comstock 2008. All rights reserved

Loop & Braid Edging (for Cuff)
Row 1: (RS) k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k1, turn (Note: Rows 5-8 are the same as rows 1-4 except
Row 2: (WS) k1, (k1, p1) into yo, p2tog, yo, k2, ssk row 8 ends with an sssk instead of ssk — ssk joins
Row 3: (RS) k1, k2tog, yo, k5, turn the last stitch of edging with the next stitch of the
Row 4: (WS) bind off 2 sts, p2tog, yo, k2, ssk sock’s body; sssk (sl, sl, sl, k3tog tbl) joins the last
Row 5: (RS) k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k1, turn stitch of edging with the next two stitches of the
Row 6: (WS) k1, (k1, p1) into yo, p2tog, yo, k2, ssk sock’s body)
Row 7: (RS) k1, k2tog, yo, k5, turn
Row 8: (WS) bind off 2 sts, p2tog, yo, k2, sssk

Finishing
Once the final stitch on the leg of the sock has been ssked (or sssked) to the edging, unzip or unpick the
provisional cast-on, slipping the freed-up stitches onto another needle (either a second dpn or your circular
needle that is now free.) Cut your working yarn leaving 12-18 inches of tail. Using that tail, graft the 2 ends of
the edging together.

Weave in the toe’s starting tail. Do it all over again for a second sock, then go out in the garden and prove
you’ve conquered your arachnophobia.

Note: sample sock shows an extra vine stem on either side of the spider
that is not present in the pattern

© Leslie Comstock 2008. All rights reserved

Vines (instep pattern)

Setup Row

Pattern Repeat (20 rows)

Final 3 rows (if ending last repeat on row 7 of pattern)

Final 3 rows (if ending last repeat on row 17 of pattern)

Start 3-loop bud

In rows 8 and 18 buds are begun by [K1, yo, K1] into the stitch 2 rows below the next stitch on the left needle,
making three elongated sts. On the following row each of these sts is knit, then joined back into a single stitch
with a double central decrease on the next row.

Knit into stitch two rows Elongate the stitch. Yarn over to form a Knit into the same stitch
below the next stitch on second stitch again drawing up a 3rd
the left needle. stitch. Then drop the stitch
from the left needle.

© Leslie Comstock 2008. All rights reserved

Vines (instep pattern)

Setup Row
[k tbl, l-twist pb, p4, k2tog, yo, p4, r-twist pb] twice, k tbl

Pattern Repeat (20 rows)

R1: [k tbl, p1, k tbl, p4, k2, p4, k tbl, p1] twice, k tbl
R2: [k tbl, p1, l-twist pb, p3, yo, ssk, p3, r-twist pb, p1] twice, k tbl
R3: [k tbl, p2, k tbl, p3, k2, p3, k tbl, p2] twice, k tbl
R4: [k tbl, p2, l-twist pb, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, r-twist pb, p2] twice, k tbl
R5: [k tbl, p3, k tbl, p2, k2, p2, k tbl, p3] twice, k tbl
R6: [k tbl, p3, k1, p2, yo, ssk, p2, k1, p3] twice, k tbl
R7: [k tbl, p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3] twice, k tbl
R8: [k tbl, k tbl, p2, start 3-loop bud, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, start 3-loop bud, p2, k tbl] twice, k tbl
R9: [k tbl, k tbl, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k tbl] twice, k tbl
R10: [k tbl, l-twist pb, p1, dbl dec, p2, yo, ssk, p2, dbl dec, p1, r-twist pb] twice, k tbl
R11: [k tbl, p1, k tbl, p4, k2, p4, k tbl, p1] twice, k tbl
R12: [k tbl, p1, l-twist pb, p3, k2tog, yo, p3, r-twist pb, p1] twice, k tbl
R13: [k tbl, p2, k tbl, p3, k2, p3, k tbl, p2] twice, k tbl
R14: [k tbl, p2, l-twist pb, p2, yo, ssk, p2, r-twist pb, p2] twice, k tbl
R15: [k tbl, p3,k tbl, p2, k2, p2, k tbl, p3] twice, k tbl
R16: [k tbl, p3, k1, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k1, p3] twice, k tbl
R17: [k tbl, p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3] twice, k tbl
R18: [k tbl, k tbl, p2, start 3-loop bud, p2, yo, ssk, p2, start 3-loop bud, p2, k tbl] twice, k tbl
R19: [k tbl, k tbl, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k tbl] twice, k tbl
R20: [k tbl, l-twist pb, p1, dbl dec, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, dbl dec, p1, r-twist pb] twice, k tbl

Final 3 rows (if ending last repeat on row 7 of pattern)

R8: [k tbl, p3, start 3-loop bud, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, start 3-loop bud, p3] twice, k tbl
R9: [k tbl, p3, k3, p2, k2, p2, k3, p3] twice, k tbl
R10: [k tbl, p3, dbl dec, p2, yo, ssk, p2, dbl dec, p3] twice, k tbl

Final 3 rows (if ending last repeat on row 17 of pattern)

R18: [k tbl, p3, start 3-loop bud, p2, yo, ssk, p2, start 3-loop bud, p3] twice, k tbl
R19: [k tbl, p3, k3, p2, k2, p2, k3, p3] twice, k tbl
R20: [k tbl, p3, dbl dec, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, dbl dec, p3] twice, k tbl

Special Abbreviations
k tbl Knit through the back loop
l-twist pb Left twist with purl background
Sl 1 to cable needle, hold in front, p1, k1 from cable needle
r-twist pb Right twist with purl background
Sl1 to cable needle, hold in back, k1, p1 from cable needle
start 3-loop bud See instructions on previous page
dbl dec Central Double Decrease
Slip 1st and 2nd sts together as if to knit, k1, pass the two slipped sts over the knit st

© Leslie Comstock 2008. All rights reserved

The Spider (back of leg pattern)

© Leslie Comstock 2008. All rights reserved

The Spider (back of leg pattern)
R1: p2, (k tbl, p2) 9 times R34: p7, l-twist pb, p1, l-twist pb, p1, ssk, k5, k2tog,
R2: p2, (k tbl, p2) 9 times p1, r-twist pb, p1, r-twist pb, p7
R3: p2, (k tbl, p2, k1, p2) 4 times, k tbl, p2 R35: p8, l-twist pb, p1, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p1,
R4: p2, (k tbl, p2, k1, p2) 4 times, k tbl, p2 r-twist pb, p8
R5: p2, (k tbl, p2, start 3-loop bud, p2) 4 times, k tbl, p2 R36: p9, (l-twist pb) 2 times, ssk, k3, k2tog,
R6: p2, (k tbl, p2, k3, p2) 4 times, k tbl, p2 (r-twist pb) 2 times, p9
R7: p2, (k1, p2, dbl dec, p2) 4 times, k1, p2 R37: p10, l-twist pb, k1, cluster5, k1, r-twist pb, p10
R8: p2, (k1, p5) 4 times, k1, p2 R38: p11, l-twist pb, k5, r-twist pb, p11
R9: p2, (start 3-loop bud, p5) 4 times, start 3-loop bud, p2 R39: p12, k7, p12
R10: p2, (k3, p5) 4 times, k3, p2 R40: p12, r-twist, k3, l-twist, p12
R11: p2, (dbl dec, p5) 4 times, dbl dec, p2 R41: p11, r-twist pb, k5, l-twist pb, p11
R12: p29 R42: p10, (r-twist pb) 2 times, k3, (l-twist pb) 2 times, p10
R13: p11, k1, p5, k1, p11 R43: p9, r-twist pb, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1,
R14: p11, k tbl, p5, k tbl, p11 l-twist pb, p9
R15: p11, k1, p5, k1, p11 R44: p8, r-twist pb, p1, r-twist pb, p1, k1, yo, k1, yo,
R16: p11, k tbl, p5, k tbl, p11 k1, p1, l-twist pb, p1, l-twist pb, p8
R17: p4, k1, p6, k1, p5, k1, p6, k1, p4 R45: p7, r-twist pb, p2, k1, p2, k5, p2, k1, p2,
R18: p4, k tbl, p5, r-twist pb, p5, l-twist pb, p5, k tbl, p4 l-twist pb, p7
R19: p4, k1, p5, k1, p7, k1, p5, k1, p4 R46: p6, r-twist pb, p2, r-twist pb, p1, k1, work5tog,
R20: p4, k tbl, p4, r-twist pb, p7, l-twist pb, p4, k tbl, p4 k1, p1, l-twist pb, p2, l-twist pb, p6
R21: p4, k1, p4, k1, p9, k1, p4, k1, p4 R47: p5, r-twist pb, p3, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1,
R22: p3, r-twist pb, p3, r-twist pb, p9, l-twist pb, p3, p3, l-twist pb, p5
l-twist pb, p3 R48: p4, r-twist pb, p3, r-twist pb, p1, r-twist pb, p1,
R23: p3, k1, p4, k1, p11, k1, p4, k1, p3 l-twist pb, p1, l-twist pb, p3, l-twist pb, p4
R24: p2, r-twist pb, p3, r-twist pb, p11, l-twist pb, p3, R49: p4, k1, p4, k1, p2, k1, p3, k1, p2, k1, p4, k1, p4
l-twist pb, p2 R50: p3, r-twist pb, p3, r-twist pb, p9, l-twist pb, p3,
R25: p2, k1, p4, k1, p5, cluster3, p5, k1, p4, k1, p2 l-twist pb, p3
R26: p2, k tbl, p4, k tbl, p5, k1, m1, k1, m1, k1, p5, R51: p3, k1, p4, k1, p11, k1, p4, k1, p3
k tbl, p4, k tbl, p2 R52: p2, r-twist pb, p3, r-twist pb, p11, l-twist pb, p3,
R27: p2, k1, p4, k1, p5, k2, (k yo k) in 1, k2, p5, k1, l-twist pb, p2
p4, k1, p2 R53: p2, k1, p4, k1, p13, k1, p4, k1, p2
R28: p2, l-twist pb, p3, l-twist pb, p4, m1, k2, k tbl, R54: p2, k tbl, p4, k tbl, p13, k tbl, p4, k tbl, p2
k2, m1, p4, r-twist pb, p3, r-twist pb, p2 R55: p2, k1, p4, k1, p13, k1, p4, k1, p2
R29: p3, k1, p4, k1, p4, k9, p4, k1, p4, k1, p3 R56: p2, l-twist pb, p3, l-twist pb, p11, r-twist pb,
R30: p3, l-twist pb, p3, l-twist, p3, k9, p3, r-twist pb, p3, r-twist pb, p2
p3, r-twist pb, p3 R57: p3, k1, p4, k1, p11, k1, p4, k1, p3
R31: p4, l-twist pb, p3, k1, p3, k9, p3, k1, p3, R58: p3, k tbl, p4, l-twist pb, p9, r-twist pb, p4, k tbl, p3
r-twist pb, p4 R59: p3, k1, p5, k1, p9, k1, p5, k1, p3
R32: p5, l-twist pb, p2, l-twist pb, p2, k9, p2, R60: p9, l-twist pb, p7, r-twist pb, p9
r-twist pb, p2, r-twist pb, p5 R61: p10, k1, p7, k1, p10
R33: p6, l-twist pb, p2, k1, p2, k9, p2, k1, p2, R62: p10, k tbl, p7, k tbl, p10
r-twist pb, p6

10

© Leslie Comstock 2008. All rights reserved