KETTLE CHIP SOCKS

Alright, it sounds ridiculous but hear me out – this is a

fun twist on the term “potato chip knitting”, reserved for
those knits that you can’t make just once, and as the
first sock sample started taking shape, I found that I
couldn’t stop at a single stripe, and then at a single sock,
or a single pair! This is a mindlessly addicting knit (and
much healthier than kettle chips), and in a self-striping
yarn it knits up fast.

Originally, the goal for this pattern was to make the

most of a 50g skein of self-striping yarn that I had in
my stash - I wanted matching socks, with a heel that
didn’t break the stripe sequence, and for them to be as
long as possible. The best way to achieve all of this? An
afterthought heel.
This heel may sound intimidating if you’ve never
worked it, but it is so much easier than it may seem at
first! These socks can be knit cuff-down or toe-up (I
provide both directions), and they are knit for several
inches without even worrying about a heel until the end,
when all stitches are bound off. I provide a detailed
photo tutorial for working the afterthought heel, overall
it’s much easier and quicker than it may sound, so don’t
let it scare you!

NOTES
Sizes: finished foot circumference 6, 7, (8, 9, 10) inches, or 15.25, 17.75 (20.25, 22.75, 25.5) cm, measured around the
widest part of the foot
 The sample was knit in size 8”, and for a 7.75” circumference foot (giving ~0.25” / 0.75 cm positive ease)
 Note: The afterthought heel can have a slightly snug fit compared to the heel flap method, if you are between
sizes and worried about a sock that is too tight, I recommend sizing up.
Needles:
 Size US 1 / 2.25 mm DPNs or long circular needles for magic loop
Yarn: fingering weight yarn in up to three colors:
 MC: 231, 270 (308, 347, 385) yards / 211, 246 (282, 317, 352) meters
 CC1: 56, 65 (73, 81, 89) yards / 52, 59 (66, 74, 81) meters – for cuff
 CC2: 50, 56 (62, 67, 73) yards / 46, 51 (56, 62, 67) meters – for heel and toe
Gauge: 32 sts x 40 rows = 4” x 4” stockinette stitch, worked in the round and blocked lightly
Notions: stitch marker, tapestry needle

Kettle Chip Socks, pg. 1 © 2023 Maddy Moe

 ABBREVIATIONS
RS / WS “Right side” and “Wrong side”, referring to the front or back (or inside) of your work
st / sts Stitch / stitches
BOR Beginning of the round
TN / BN Top needle / Bottom needle; referring to the top or bottom needle using the magic loop method
MC / CC Main Color / Coordinating Color
k/p Knit / purl
sl1-pw-wyif/b Slip one stitch purlwise, keeping the working yarn in the front (“wyif”) or in the back (“wyib”) as you slip the stitch
k2tog Knit the next two sts together; creates right-leaning decreasing stitch (decreases one)
“Slip, Slip, Knit”: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip 1 stitch knitwise, pass both sts to the left needle (both stitches will be twisted), knit them
ssk
together through the back loop; creates left-leaning decreasing stitch (decreases one)
1/1 RPC Right-crossing cable, crossing a knit over a purl. The 1/1 RPC can be worked without a cable needle: slip the first two stitches of
the left needle to the right needle knitwise at the same time. Place the topmost stitch back on the left needle first, then the
bottommost stitch on the left needle (again slipping them knitwise). The stiches will be out of order, but should not be twisted.
Work these 2 sts as “k1, p1” to complete the cable.

TECHNIQUES
Kitchener stitch: A method for grafting together two rows of live stitches. See this video for a tutorial.
Long-Tail Cast-On: A versatile cast-on method which can be used for most edges, including ribbed edges. When using this
method, I recommend casting on stitches loosely, so that the edge is not too tight. Refer to this video for a demonstration.
Tubular Bind-Off: A method for binding off 1x1 ribbing that leaves a very stretchy edge which retains its shape well without
stretching over time. It creates an edge where the stitches appear to “fold” over, giving a very nice aesthetic for finishing sweater
hems and sleeves. Refer to this video for a good tutorial for this method.
Tubular Cast-On: A cast-on for edges that are ribbed (such as hats, collars, sleeves, and socks), it can be worked as a 1x1 ribbing
or converted to a 2x2 ribbing. This method requires two setup rows (described below) to orient the stitches correctly, so they are
not twisted. Refer to this video for my favorite method of working this cast-on.
Turkish Cast-On: A cast-on that will set you up to begin working in the round, and it works beautifully for toe-up socks. It is
worked most easily using the magic loop technique, which I strongly recommend! Refer to this video for a fantastic tutorial.

This simple sock pattern is designed to be used with self-striping yarn (but it also works great for using up partials or if you want
to get the most out of the yardage you have available), using a true afterthought heel! These socks can be worked either cuff-
down OR toe-up! It all depends on which techniques you’d like to use:
The cuff-down version will use a Tubular Cast-On, decreases, and a graft to join the toe stitches.
The toe-up version will use a Turkish Cast-On, increases, and end in a Tubular Bind-Off.
The body of the sock is identical for both directions, making for a really fun and mindless project. You won’t have to worry about
any finnicky stitch counts or techniques, except at the very start and very end of each sock. I recommend weighing all skeins
beforehand, especially if you expect to play (and hopefully win) yarn chicken with a partial skein, so you can maximize the length
of your socks! Regardless of the directions you choose, the afterthought heel is worked last, and these directions are written out in
detail with a photo tutorial! The instructions are written with vocabulary to accommodate the magic loop technique for socks, but
they can be worked using any method.
Cuff-down version . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 3
Toe-up version . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 4
Afterthought heel . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 5

Kettle Chip Socks, pg. 2 © 2023 Maddy Moe

 DIRECTIONS
CUFF-DOWN VERSION

CUFF
Using size US 1 / 2.25 mm needles and your CC1 yarn, cast on 48, 56 (64, 72, 80) sts using the Tubular Cast-On
method, referring to the video in the TECHNIQUES section on page 2 if needed.

This cast-on requires some setup steps to establish the 2x2 ribbing, but if you worked an alternative cast-on (such as
the Long-Tail Cast-On) then simply skip ahead to the Cuff Round below.

Tubular Cast-On Setup Row 1 (RS): *k1tbl, sl1-pw-wyif* to the end, turn to continue working flat
Tubular Cast-On Setup Row 2 (WS): *k1, sl1-pw-wyif* to the end, do not turn your work, instead arrange your sts to
continue in the round

In the next step, the 1x1 ribbing is converted to a 2x2 ribbing using a simple 1/1 RPC, a very simple cable that can easily
be worked without a cable needle.

Tubular Cast-On Setup Round: *k1, 1/1 RPC, p1* to the end, place marker for BOR

You have established the 2x2 ribbing on the cuff, and from here out the rest of the sock will be smooth sailing!
Arrange your sts so that they are evenly divided between your top needle (TN) and bottom needle (BN): you should
have 24, 28 (32, 36, 40) sts on each needle.

Cuff Round: *k2, p2* around

Work the Cuff Round until your work measures about 3.5” / 9 cm, or until the cuff has reached your desired length.

LEG & FOOT

Cut your CC1 yarn, join your MC. Knit for several inches – if you are playing yarn chicken, be careful to keep an eye
on the weight of your skein! The samples were knit for about 13” / 33 cm to achieve a mid-calf height.
Or, if you are using a self-striping yarn and want your socks to match, be careful that you save enough of each color
stripe for the second sock to match (tip: look at the other end of the yarn ball, and see what color it ends on – count
the number of stripes with that color).

The toe will add another 1.7, 1.9 (2.1, 2.3, 2.5)” / 4.3, 4.8 (5.3, 5.8, 6.3) cm to the length of the sock.

TOE
Cut your MC yarn, and join your CC2 yarn. Make sure your work is split evenly between your needles: half of your sts
on the TN, half on the BN.

Knit three rounds.

Toe Decrease Round 1: TN: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; BN: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (decreases four)
Toe Decrease Round 2: knit around

Work Toe Decrease Rounds 1-2 another six, seven (eight, nine, ten) times. You should have 10, 12 (14, 16, 18) sts
remaining on each needle.

Cut your CC2 yarn, and graft your toe sts together using the Kitchener Stitch (see the video recommended in the
TECHNIQUES section on pg 2 if needed). Secure all ends and weave them in.

Work the second sock to match, and then proceed to the AFTERTHOUGHT HEEL instructions on page 5.
Kettle Chip Socks, pg. 3 © 2023 Maddy Moe
 DIRECTIONS
TOE-UP VERSION

TOE
Using size US 1 / 2.25 mm needles and your CC2 yarn, cast on 10, 12 (14, 16, 18) sts to each needle using the Turkish
Cast-On method, referring to the video in the TECHNIQUES section on page 2 if needed.

You should have 20, 24 (28, 32, 36) sts total, divided evenly between the Top Needle (TN) and Bottom Needle (BN).

Toe Increase Round 1: knit around

Toe Increase Round 2: TN: k1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1; BN: k1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1 (increases four)

Work Toe Increase Rounds 1-2 another six, seven (eight, nine, ten) times, then knit three rounds.
You should have 48, 56 (64, 72, 80) sts total.

LEG & FOOT

Cut your CC2 yarn, join your MC. Knit for several inches – if you are playing yarn chicken, be careful to keep an eye
on the weight of your skein! The samples were knit for about 13” / 33 cm to achieve a mid-calf height.
Or, if you are using a self-striping yarn and want your socks to match, be careful that you save enough of each color
stripe for the second sock to match (tip: look at the other end of the yarn ball, and see what color it ends on – count
the number of stripes with that color).

CUFF
Cut your MC yarn, and join your CC1 yarn.

Cuff Setup Round: knit around

Cuff Round: *k2, p2* around

Work the Cuff Round until your work measures about 3.5” / 9 cm, or until the cuff has reached your desired length.

I prefer a Tubular Bind-Off for this edge, which requires that the 2x2 ribbing is converted to a 1x1 ribbing, but feel free
to use another stretchy bind-off if you prefer! The Tubular Bind-Off Setup Round below uses a 1/1 RPC, a very simple
cable that can easily be worked without a cable needle.

Tubular Bind-Off Setup Round: k1, *k1, p1, 1/1 RPC* to the last 3 sts, k1, p1, and using the last st from this round with the
first stitch from the next round, work 1/1 RPC

Your work is now in 1x1 ribbing, and your round should begin with a knit stitch.

Cut your yarn leaving a tail that is 36” / 91 cm long, and work the Tubular Bind-Off around the entire edge. Secure all
ends and weave them in.

Work the second sock to match, and then proceed to the AFTERTHOUGHT HEEL instructions on page 5.

Kettle Chip Socks, pg. 4 © 2023 Maddy Moe

AFTERTHOUGHT HEEL
The afterthought heel is a deceptively simple technique for finishing a sock heel after it is finished, and it will be
worked the same way for both socks. Before working these steps, I recommend weaving in all existing ends so they
don’t get in the way. Once you join your yarn, the heel instructions will be the exact same as the toe decrease
instructions worked in the cuff-down version – the shaping is identical! If you prefer to watch a video showing the
setup steps, refer to the video linked in the TECHNIQUES section on page 2.

STEP ONE: determining heel placement

Find the best place for the heel by either:
1) Measuring your foot (you may find it helpful to trace
around it on a piece of paper), subtract 1.7, 1.9 (2.1, 2.3,
2.5)” / 4.3, 4.8 (5.3, 5.8, 6.3) cm from this
measurement. On your sock, measure that distance
from the toe to determine where your heel should
start!
2) Try on your sock, and approximate where the heel
should start
3) Use a sock you’ve already knit for reference!

This does not have to be exact, and remember that the

sock will stretch a bit as it blocks! If you prefer a tighter-
fitting sock, then choose a spot a little closer to the toes
by a few rows (or one stripe), and if you prefer a looser fit
then go toward the cuff instead.

STEP TWO: picking up the bottom sts

Cuff-down version: with the toe facing up, use the toe
decreases to locate the first stitch in the round (the red
circle to the right), and trace it down to the row you’d like
to pick up to start the heel.

Toe-up version: with the toe facing down, use the toe
increases to locate the first stitch in the round (this will be
identical to the red circle to the right, but with the toe
facing down instead), trace it up to the row you’d like to
pick up to start the heel.

Run your needle through the right leg of this stitch, and
continue picking up the right leg of each stitch on this
side of the sock until you have picked up 24, 28 (32, 36,
40) sts.

The picture to the right shows 32 sts picked up in a cuff-

down version sock – this will form half of the round for
the heel.

Kettle Chip Socks, pg. 5 © 2023 Maddy Moe

 STEP THREE: picking up the top sts
Use the other end of your circular needle for this step,
and pull the first needle through so the fabric is flexible as
you pick up these top sts.

Starting at the first stitch in the round again, move up two

rounds and pick up the right leg of every stitch across this
side of the sock, until you have picked up 24, 28 (32, 36,
40) additional sts.

Note that there is one entire unworked row between the

sts you picked up with the needles! This is the row you
will cut in the next step, there MUST be exactly one row
between the picked up sts.

STEP FOUR: snip!

Use a pair of snips to make a cut through one leg of a
stitch in the unworked row between the picked up sts,
toward the middle of the row (this ensures you will have a
long enough tail on each side to weave in later).

Use a small needle or hook to pick out the sts, as you

work toward each side. I recommend leaving the last
loop or two intact, to help you close the gap later when
you weave in ends.

After this step, you will have a large hole in your sock,
and 48, 56 (64, 72, 80) live sts that are set up to work in
the round.

Kettle Chip Socks, pg. 6 © 2023 Maddy Moe

 STEP FIVE: working the heel
Join your CC2 yarn, and arrange your needles to begin working a RS round.

Knit three rounds.

Heel Decrease Round 1: TN: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; BN: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (decreases four)
Heel Decrease Round 2: knit around

Work Heel Decrease Rounds 1-2 another six, seven (nine, ten, twelve) times. You should have 10, 12 (12, 14, 14) sts
remaining on each needle.

Cut your CC2 yarn, and graft your

heel sts together using the Kitchener
Stitch (see the video recommended in
the TECHNIQUES section on pg 2 if
needed).

Repeat these instructions for working

the heel on the second sock.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends, wet block your
socks, and place them on sock
blockers so they can dry to shape,
and enjoy!

Thank you for supporting my work!

-Maddy
SUPPORT: For questions and pattern support, please contact me through one of the following:
Ravelry moemr
Email maddymoeknits@gmail.com
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Kettle Chip Socks, pg. 7 © 2023 Maddy Moe