exhibited new types of machines.

Especially as for flat

Knitting Machinery knitting machines. Tsudakoma Industry, well-known as
a large weaving machine manufacturer, exhibited as a
S atoru Itoh trial a completely new flat knitting machine which has
Kobe Design University no ordinary carriage. Shima Seiki Mfg. and Sansei Mfg.
displayed rib garment length machines which enabled
1. Introduction needles to be transferred from right to left or vice versa.
Needles on ordinary rib garment machines are
ITMA, the largest textile machinery exhibition in the transferred only from the back bed to the front or vice
world, is held in Europe every four years. OTEMAS is versa. As for circular knitting machines, Fukuhara
held in Osaka for the Asian district in the middle year of Industrial & Trading exhibited a computerized Jacquard
each ITMA, that is, two years after ITMA. Besides double-jersey machine with interlock-gating.
those, IKAE which is an exhibition for only knitting On the whole, a most manufacturers placed greater
machines, is held in Tokyo a year after OTEMAS. emphasis to quality and versatility rather than to
At OTEMAS, European knitting machine productivity. Even at knitting demonstration, unique
manufacturers usually tend to exhibit their machines knitting designs and fabrics with elastic yams were
which won the popularity at ITMA. This time, some shown, giving interest not only to knitters but also to
improvements were added to their machines or fabrics on production planners or designers in apparel industry.
display.
Japanese knitting machine manufacturers ambitiously

Vol. 40. No. 2 (1994) 39

 knitting machines had no such demerit, because of their
2. Flat Knitting Machines features that the fabric is knitted in piece with thick and
uneven surface.
Yard goods productivity by flat knitting machines is e) As for gauges of computerized design knitting
less than that by circular machines, because the former machines with transferred stitches, 14 gauge machines
comes from a small number of yam feeders making had been exhibited till '91 ITMA, and Shima Seiki first
reciprocating motion, and the latter from a large number exhibited 18 gauge at '93 OTEMAS. Shima Seiki also
of yam feeders with rotary motion. But in case of exhibited a 16 machine for rib only without transferring-
producing a small lot, the flat knitting machine has an stitches at '87 ITOMA, and a 22 machine at '91 ITMA
advantage of short lead time, because only the required and '93 OTEMAS. If knitting machine manufacturers
number of colored cones is necessary to knit. Japanese want to enter the weaving market, researches for finer
consumers today hope for fabric manufacturers to catch gauge and knitting structures must be eagerly done.
their trends quickly, and to plan and produce a small lot f) As for improvement of design function, at '87 ITMA
of garments at a reasonable price as soon as possible, Stoll succeeded in making various designs such as
though there are still many manufacturers which produce continuous tucks by sinkers positioned on both needle
only ready-made clothes for convenience. Concerning beds. Then at '87 ITMA all major manufacturers
this point, the flat knitting machine is the most suitable displayed developed machines. Some machines were
knitting machine for producing outer garments. equipped with sinkers on needle beds, or with a stitch
Other basic features of flat knitting machines are as presser on the carriage. These technical improvements
follows: were progressing even at '93 OTEMAS.
a) Fabric is knitted without any loss, because the g) Universal exhibited a new type in which at the same
knitting width is changeable by changing the number of course needles are selected into one of three different
needles. Shaped knitting, which can be made by means stitch length positions. Since then, some major
of transferred stitches, is possible to save more than 30% manufacturers began to adopt the stitch length
of material comparing with other types of machines with controlling system.
the same number of needles. h) Sansei at '91 ITMA displayed an intersia machine
b) Fabric knitted on flat knitting machines cannot be whose yarn carriers were electronically controlled by
'Active Carrier System' , making its productivity doubled.
unraveled from ends or sides, therefore cost and time for
sewing are saved. i) Shima Seiki and Sansei at '93 OTEMAS displayed
c) Racking the needle beds can produce various rib shaped garment length machines which enabled
knitted structures. needles to be transferred from right to left or vice versa.
d) Because there are a lot of space on both sides of j) Tsudakoma at '93 OTEMAS displayedas a trial an
needle beds, the carriage can be combined with many epoch-making machine without carriage, the individual
structural design apparatuses such as knit, tuck, welt or needle on which is moved by means of a linear motor.
transferred stitch, etc. Other machines at the exhibition are as follows:
The following descriptions are about technological Shima Seiki displayed 27 machines in total; 18 of
innovations on flat knitting machines. garment length, 5 of seamless glove and 4 of seamless
a) Though compound needle has an advantage of socks. Besides, total systems were displayed covering
shorter stroke in motion, only Shima Seiki first exhibited all knitting areas throughout from designing to knitting
four cam system machine at '87 ITMA and has been with simultaneous making-up such as total-knitting or
exhibiting. total-fashion system.
b) As for cam system, four cam systems had been SES-RT was new and popular at the exhibition,
exhibited till '83 ITMA. But five cam systems at '87 making rib shaped knitting possible by reducing the
ITMA, and six cam systems at both '91 ITMA and '93 number of needles. There are two horizontal subsidiary
OTEMAS, were exhibited by Shima Seiki (3 by 3 beds over two main needle beds, and so it is called 'Four
tandem system is also available). Bed Type Machine'. Jacks inserted on the subsidiary
c) As for knitting width, wide machines such as beds receive loops from main needle beds, and then
229cm at '91 ITMA, 254cm at '93 OTEMAS by Shima subsidiary beds move sideways and loops are finally
Seiki, and 224cm at '93 OTEMAS by Stoll, were transferred to adjoining needles.
exhibited. By means of this method, narrowing the knitted fabric
d) Computerized design knitting systems on flat by fashioning such as rib, tubular stitches, milano rib and
knitting machines were exhibited at '75 ITMA by only full or half cardigan was successfully made. Several
two major manufacturers, but at '79 ITMA by all major wales inside of both edges are fashioned according to the
manufacturers. Not only needle selection for knitting designed curve, and the fabric can be used as it is
design but also controlling systems and design systems without any further processes. RT is the initials of Rib
have been connected and progressed. Although circular Transfer. Fig. 1 shows the whole view of SES-122RT.
machines had to compete with printing industry, flat Figure 2 shows its four-bed and a shaped fabric made by

Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan

40
 Fig. l Whole view of SES 122RT

Fig. 3 Full moving sinkers of SES-S

Fig. 2 Four-bed and a shaped fabric by SES 122RT

this machine. Darts, pleats, jacquard, solid and inteasia

are freely combined with these basic structural fabrics.
Three SES-122-RT machines in 7G, lOG and 12G were
displayed this time.
SES-FF presented in 1989 was able to produce shaped
front body, collar, tack, pocket and button hole Fig. 4 Movement of sinkers of SES-S

simultaneously, so that it was called 'Integral knit'. SES-

FF was a valuable machine, because it could
automatically knit fabrics together with other parts which
usually had to be cut and sewn after knitting process. So,
it can save time and cost. The first super fine 18 G
machine in the world was exhibited besides 3G, 5G and
14G machines.
SES-S type newly presented at this exhibition was the
advanced machine of FF type. It was equipped with
higher Integral knit which could produce more difficult
structural designs with easy operation. Full moving
sinkers with springs ( Figs. 3 and 4 ) made it possible to
make easily various structures such as extraordinary
knitting design, solid design, and loop design crossed Fig. 5 Narrowing device of TSC-1K48
lengthwise and crosswise. SES-122-S in 7G, 12G, and
lOG for intersia knitting, and SES-254-S in 7G with
254cm knitting width which was the widest at present in
the world, were exhibited. SFF-153-S for only milano
rib with finest gauge of 22 was displayed too.
As for the total knitting system, super micro SDS
design system was displayed, which could reduce the
time for automatic-controlling up to 1/60 of the ordinary
type. Some examples were as follows: from 13 minutes Fig. 6 Double sinkers of TSC-1K48

Vol. 40. No. 2(1994) 41

to 14 seconds for one piece of cardigan, from 21 minutes CMS433 equipped with six cams ( available in tandem
to 22 seconds for four colored intersia, from 38 minutes type ) and 244cm knitting width in 12 G was displayed,
to 26 seconds for ordinary intersia. which exceeded the second generation in its ability. The
Sansei exhibited the following types of machines functional device was paid attention, as it was able to
with unique development. knit sprit increasing stitches with plain knitting in order
TSC-1K48 is a new type equipped with an automatic to avoid open loops at the first course.
rib stitch narrowing device inside the carriage, CMS330 displayed also at '91 ITMA, was a superior
eliminating the manual operation for reducing rib stitches. machine in compact size, 115cm knitting width, 12 G
Figure 5 shows the narrowing device of TSC-1K48, and and three cams. It is a intersia machine having CMS
Figure 6 its double sinkers. device for increasing assigned stitches. It is equipped
INS-40 for only Intersia knitting with Sansei's with an automatic yarn changing and knotting device,
monopoly was a machine with Active Carrier method yam pressing and cutting devices at both ends of needle
first presented at '91 ITMA in the world. Fourteen yam beds adapting to 16 colored yams. Therefore, shaped
carriers which are independent of the carriage are knitting such as three-dimensional by designed knitting
programmed to move to their required needles by means can be produced by this machine. Figure 8 shows a
of servo motors, then intersia is knitted by the carriage whole view of CMS330 and its intersia designed fabric
motion. But another yam carrier is connected with the with 9 colored yams. It was also informed that 32 knots
carriage. Three machines in 10,12 and 14 G were on the were made when colored yams were exchanged, and 10
demonstration. Figure 7 shows the active carrier on INS- seconds were required for each knot.
40. This company was exerting on the design system
SIRIX, and four types of systems such as Mini or PLUS
were displayed in order to adapt customer needs.
Tsudakoma Industry drew the biggest public attention
this time. Major weaving manufacturer, Tsudakoma,
displayed as a trial a flat knitting machine TFK equipped
with an epoch-making mechanism patented by Asahi
Kasei Corp. in '89.
In this mechanism, each needle was moved by means
of a linear motor instead of cams. TFK was equipped
with latched needles with stitch transferring attachments
Fig. 7 Active carrier on INS-40
and sinkers on the front needle bed. At demonstration it
was knitting the shaped fabric with sophisticated design
TSCX2 is a double-cam machine with double sinkers used to be made by ordinary electronic Jaquard machines.
which was displayed at '91 ITMA and shown in Fig. 6. Five machines were displayed including three different
Two different stitch densities can be obtained by types such as 7G, lOG and 12G.
individual needle selection, and the pattern area on this
machine is also large. TSCX4 is a four-cam machine
equipped with the same apparatus of TSCX2. TS-140N
for only plain knitting was knitting a high density fabric
by use of 16 G machine with needles for 20 G at
demonstration.
At '87 ITMA, Stoll(Germany) presented sensational
CMS series with the renewed machine shape and
remarkable contents. People were surprised by its
effectional features at the exhibition, because the front
and the back needle beds were equipped with sinkers and
spring latched needles in order to assure continuous
tucks, automatically adjustable knitting width, and
storage-feeders for tensionless feeding. This machine
was called as the first-generation of CMS.
At '91 ITMA, the Second Generation of CMS was
unveiled with such features as 20% reduction of machine
installation area and 20% reduction of machine weight.
Fig. 8 Whole view of CMS 330 and its intersia
Besides a tandem type of double-cam systems, an
designed fabric with 9 colored yarns
automatic yam changing and knotting device on intersia,
and clamping and cutting apparatuses at both ends of As there is no carriage on this machine, any needle can
needle beds were equipped. At the 5th OTEMAS, be moved by an electronically controlled linear motor.

42 Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan

 Figure 12 shows AL's whole view and its explanatory
drawing.
Matsutani Iron Works displayed Glove master FM401
which heats and adheres cuff parts of working gloves
with adhesive thread, and ties one dozen unit of gloves at
one process. Jacqurd machine MJM for only garment
accessories, and full-automatic electronically-controlled
glove machine MGE were also displayed.

Fig. 9 Whole vien of TFK

Fig. 12 Whole view of AL and its explanatory

drawing

Fig. 10 Knitting zone of TFK

3. Circular Knitting Machines

The following described some problems concerning

the development of circular machines and my opinions to
them.
First, let's pay attention to the compound needle.
Compound needles are already widely used to warp
knitting, and are fully certified their high speed and
availability to various materials. Several manufacturers
displayed some circular machines with compound
Fig. 11 Linear motor placed area, this figure from needles at '91 ITMA, and their development was keenly
Asahi Kasei's patent expected. However it was regrettable that even one
machine was not displayed at this exhibition.
Therefore if a yam carrier is synchronized with needles, The compound needle with a slider is superior to the
several courses can be knitted at one time. It was latch needle as regards the following points ;-
announced that productivity by this machine became up a) Stroke of the compound needle is half to that of the
to three times as much as that by ordinary machines. latch needle, and its productivity becomes double by
This machine would be sold one and half year later, but multi feeding.
price was unannounced yet. Figure 9 shows its whole b) Because knocking-over motion is much smoother,
view, Figure 10 shows the knitting zone and Figure 11 fabric handling can be improved. Fig. 13 shows
the area where the linear motor is placed, whose figure is continuous knocking-over motion. In case of the latch
from Asahi Kasei's patent. needle, an old loop is enlarged by its hook and shock and
Besides knitting machines, Tsudakoma displayed an damage to yarn is great.
automatic linking machine AL with lock-stitch. This c) For the compound needle, opening and closing is
linking machine is equipped with a unique camera-eye performed by the cam motion. But for the latch needle it
device which compares the present process with the data is done by the yarn, and is inaccurate.
from IC-card, and linking is automatically performed. d) The latch needle is more easily troubled than the

Vol. 40. No. 2(1994) 43

 compound needle by gathering Tints, by rubbing the yarn feeders and coarse gauge. At '87 ITMA, Fukuhara,
with neighbor latches or yarn-feeders or tight close of the Mayer Cie and Morat displayed electronic double
latch. jacquard machines, and Okuma, Bentley, and Dubied
e) In case of transferring loops, the compound needle displayd electronic double jacquard machines in which
with pelerine-jack-slider can shorten its stroke up to one needles on both cylinder and dial beds were
third of that by the latch transfer needle. electronically controlled. At '91 ITMA fully completed
As regards the circular machine with compound electronic single jacquard machines appeared. Fukuhara,
needles, much deeper research is keenly expected as it is Mayer Cie, Terrot, Morat(pile machine) and Jumberca
not perfectly completed. displayed single ones. Double ones were displayed by
The following are the descriptions about the Contra- Fukuhara, Mayer Cie and Morat. Okuma displayd
knit method with single jersey. This method where electronic double jacquard machines in which needles on
needles descend and sinkers ascend can make the both cylinder and dial beds were electronically
required loop length by the half distance of the ordinary controlled. It was impressive that a lot of electronic
method. Both the knitting tension and the frequency of jacquad machines were displayd in this exhibition. On
yam bending between the needle hook and the top of the 5th OTEMAS, Fukuhara, Mayer Cie, Morat, Okuma
sinkers, and are decreased up to half. Therefore fabric and Azuma displayed electronic double jacquad
handling improves, fewer fauled fabric can be made and machines. Fukuhara, Mayer Cie and Terrot displayed
knitting with thin or weak yarns is possible. electronic single jacquad machines.
Contra-knit machine had been popular since it was Demand for electronic single jacquad machines will
first displayed at '87 ITMA, so Mayer Cie and Fukuhara increase in the future, because casual wear such as t-shirt
displayed this type of machines this time. Super high or polo-shirt will be much needed, and people in general
revolution can be performed on these machines, because request more sophisticated knitting design of better
angles of both needles and cams can be made low in care quality than monotonous border design. However
of ordinary knitting tension. However at the present, printed design fabric with one point would be enough for
good quality of fabric is much more concerned than students. High piled fabric with colored design or
speed. electronic jacquard piled fabric with uneven surface are
The following are the description about the trend of hopeful goods, because real fur is not popular any more
electronic circular jacquard machines. Morat at '71 from the view of animal protection.
ITMA exhibited an electronic circular jacquad machine An electronic double jacquard machine with interlock-
first in the world, and it was the center of attention. At gating was first displayed by Fukuhara at this 5th
'75 ITMA most of major manufacturers exhibited this OTEMAS. The intelock-gating is very significant today,
kind of machines. But at '79 ITMA the number of as is explained below:
machines displayed decreased sharply. The reason may According to the investigation into actual conditions of
be that after the second oil crisis the single jersy machine cloths production reported by the association for
which produces thick piled fabric and fleecy fabric was improving the structure of textile industry, sum total of
much more strongly requested than the double jersey production except for socks was 3,921.1 billion yen.
machine. It is another reason that the printed fabric was About 60% of all is occupied by outerwears category, in
much easier and quicker to make than the knitting design which of 80% is woven goods and 20% is knitted goods.
fabric with colored yarns. This tendency lasted till '83 Most of suits, jackets and coats are woven products,
ITMA, and only Camber exhibited an electronic single though knitted products are occupied mainly by goods
jacquad machine as a trial. This was equipped with 12 from flat knitting machines such as sweaters. In order to
produce knitted jerseys which can be substituted for
woven outerwears, new development of thin and smooth
kitted fabrics must be necessary.
Plain knitted fabric is thinner than double knitted one,
but on the other hand the back face of plain fabric is hard
to slip in the vertical direction, as sinker loops make
horizontal ridges. Other disadvantages for plain fabric
are that wales are oblique when it is knitted with a single
yam and tends to curl by itself.
As double knitted fabric doesn't have these faults,
double knitting machines must be equipped with finer
gauge for finer yarns in order to knit thinner and
smoother surface. Though the rib-gating is commonly
used for present double knitted designs, the rib fabric
surface is not smooth because of ridges and grooves.
Fig. 13 Continious knocking-over motion The gauge on the interlock-gating can be doubled as fine

44 Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan

 as the rib-gating with the same technical difficulty, and machine was also equipped with a yarn length counter.
the fabric obtained has smooth surface because ridges Fig. 15 shows its mechanism.
and grooves are mutually compensated. Therefore it is FX-JS/3 with 30", 28 G, 72 feeders and 37 pattern
called "Smooth fabric". Both fabrics have the same steps is a semi jacquard single jersey machine. F-LEC/4
thickness, as long as the same yams are used. The 28 G with 30", 28 G and 48 feeders is an electronically
machine for rib knitting and 42 G for plain and interlock controlled double jacquard machine. Fig. 16 shows F-
knitting are the finest circular ones at the present. LEC/4 and its fabric. F-LPJ/3 with 33", 22 G, 72 feeders
Knitted goods originally have soft handling and are and 37 steps is a semi jacquard double jersey machine.
easy to wear, besides there are versatile structural FIL-8AEQ with 30", 28 G and 84 feeders is an eight-
designs. If they are knitted thin and smooth and have lock double jersey machine, and its both beds can be
good shrinkage property, they will be used as good exchanged with ease.
material for two-piece suits or jackets. Demand for the
casual wear will be much accelerated in the near future.
Summaries of displayed machines are written below
for each manufacturer. Fukuhara displayed three single
machines and three double machines. F-SEC-UY/ST
with 30" diameter, 32 G and 48 feeders was an
electronically controlled single jacquard machine
equipped with super fine gauge and 4 color yarn
changers. At demonstration it was knitting jacquard
fabric with big dropped holes. As edges of holes tend to
curl because of the plain knitted fabric property, the
fabric after knitted was strongly tensioned widthways on
the machine. This fabric matches other outerwears
lapped over. Figure 14 shows a whole view of F-SEC-
UY/ST.
FXC-Z/32S with 30", 28 G and 98 feeders is a single
jersey machine equipped with Contra Knit mechanism of
inclined sinkers made by use of the most simple
mechanism and was suitable for mass production. This

Fig. 16 Whole view of F-LEC 14 (apper) and its fabric

(down)

Fig. 14 Whole view of F-SEL-UY-ST

Fig. 17 Main parts of electronically controlled single

Fig. 15 Machanism of FXC-32S
jacquard machine SCC4F148

Vol. 40. No. 2(1994) 45

 19 shows Relanit E. The machine displayed this time
was equipped with a device which circulates warm water
to keep the machine temperature always between 35 t
and 40t. At demonstration, the plating jacquard design
fabric with reverased tuck was knitted.
FV 2.0 is a rib-gated double jersey machine with 20",
18 G and 41 feeders. IG 3.2 is an interlock-gated double
jersey machine with 38", 24 G and 122 feeders. Both
machines were knitting stretchable fabrics in which
spandex yarns were plated at several feeders on a dial
bed only.
Okuma exhibited again this time DS-18 with 34",12 G
and 18 feeders. It was a computerized jacquard double
jersey machine equipped with an electronic needle
Fig. 18 SPS LOOP cut mechanism of SPS pile selection device capable of functioning on both dial and
machine cylinder for knit, tuck and welt. This is a sweater
machine both needle beds on which rotate, and stitches
can be tansferred from dial to cylinder or vice versa.
The finest gauge for this machine was up to 14, and had
the same standard with the flat knitting machine. At
demonstration, tubular double-face jacquard fabric was
kitted.
Azuma displayed three types of machines. AK-CKW
is a computer jacquard double jersey machine with 30",
16 G and 48 feeders. AK-CMF with 34", 14 G and 36
feeders is a rib meshed computer jacquard machine
capable of selecting cylinder needles for mesh, knit, tuck
and welt. AK-4W with 20", 22 G and 80 feeders is a
high speed single jersey machine. It was demonstrated
at the high speed of 60 rpm.

4. Warp Knitting Machines

As to the technical innovation of warp knitting

Fig. 19 Whole view of Relanit E machines, the main technical development has been
mainly performed by two major warp knitting machine
Terrot-Morat(Germany) displayed three single jersey manufacturers: Karl Mayer (Germany) and Liba
machines and three double jersey machines. They were (Germany).
selected types out of machines displayed at '91 ITMA. Changeover into compound needles on all types of
SCC4F 148 with 30", 24 G and 4-color yam changers warp knitting machines of both companies has
is an electronically controlled single jacquard machine. completed at '79 ITMA and '83 ITMA. Bearded needles
Fig. 17 shows its main parts. SPS with 26",18 G and 36 were used on tricot machines in the past, but only strong
feeders is a pile machine whose loops are cut on the and elastic yarns were available for them, because the
machine. Fig. 18 shows its main parts. S296 with 38", cross sections of needle hooks are arched and their edges
28 G and 122 feeders is a single jersey machine with no are sharpened. Therefore strong and elastic nylon
design pattern device. MK7 with 30", 24 G with 48 filament yarns were mostly used. On the other, the cross
feeders is an electronically controlled double jacquard section of a compound needle hook is as circular as a
machine. UP372 with 34", 22 G, 84 feeders and 39 latch needle hook, and yarns can pass through smoothly,
pattern steps is a semi jacquard double jersey machine. and even spun yarns are available. This results in
13P154 with 38", 22 G and 68 feeders is a double jersey various kinds of yarns available for warp machines and
machine which is capable of rib and interlock. in rapid increase of production for industrial materials.
Mayer Cie(Germany) displayed three different types of Latch needles were used on raschel machines, but
machines. Relanit E with 30" 28 G and 96 feesers is a since compound needles came into use the stroke of
single jersey knitting machine having Contra Knit latch needles has become as half as it was, and its
mechanism whose sinkers are moved up and down as productivity has doubled. As for tricot machines, 1,000
well as back and forth by means of the cam driving. Fig. rpm for bearded needles has increased to 3,000 rpm. At

46 Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan

'87 ITMA its maximum speed was 2 As regards a driving system, eccentric driving was
,500 rpm, and at '91
ITMA it reached 3,000 rpm. used till '91 ITMA, but a crank shaft driving system took
Concerning the introduction of electronic technology the place of eccentric one at '93 OTEMAS. This
into warp knitting machines, the ordinary chain driving contributed to save 70% of electric power consumption
method for a reed has been changed to the electronically and to drop oil temperature about 10t, besides 5% of
controlled summing method since '87 ITMA. Because of noise was also cut down. Fig. 20 shows the new and the
this, time and cost for exchanging design patterns has old driving systems.
rapidly decreased. Today, multistep yarn-let-off is done In case of warp knitting, beaming process is necessary
by the electronically controlled EBC method, and and makes it impossible to make various designs by
multistep fabric take-up is also done by the electronically means of individual needle selection, because all needles
controlled EAC method. As for raschel machines with on a warp machine make the same movement
multireeds for producing curtain laces, an electronically simultaneously. Therefore machines are suitable for
controlled beam-let-off equipment EBA which consisted mass production. As garment materials, tricot half, one
of a small computer and a small stepping motor was way elastic Power net and two way elastic tricot are used.
developed. At '91 ITMA and '93 OTEMAS, an Other materials made by double raschels are widely used
electronically controlled ESJ method consisting of many for blankets, laced curtain, car sheets and engineering
stepping motors which could knit a partial jacquard etc..
design was presented. At '87 ITMA and '91 ITMA a machine with multi-axis
insertion was exhibited. At this OTEMAS Karl Mayer
and Liba displayed such machines for apparel uses.
Karl Mayer displayed nine types of machines at '91
ITMA, but this time only four selected types were
exhibited as below;
Super high speed tricot machine HKS-3-180"-28G
with two reeds was knitting fabric of 180" width at 2,800
rpm at demonstration. Crank shaft driving method made
it possible to save electric power consumption from 11
kW to 7.5 kW and to make the oil tank smaller from 250
to 110 liters, besides a machine is kept at low
temperature due to a oil circulation system. Two way
elastic fabric was knitted at demonstration.
An electronically controlled jacquard tricot machine
KSJ3/1-130"-32G with one jacquard bar(two divided
bars on 16G's) and two ground reeds was knitting two
way elastic fabric with jacquard designs at machine
speed of 800 rpm. The brand name of this machine is
Tricotroknics and shown in Fig. 21.
An electronically controlled jacquard raschel machine
with multi-reeds MRSE J43/1-132"-24G and a lace
Fig. 20 New and old driving systems
Raschel machine whose brand name was Jacquardtronics
were displayed this time. The latter machine has only 43
reeds, but has the capacity for 57 reeds. At
demonstration, narrow width stretchable high quality
lace was knitted at 450 rpm by use of one ground reed,
one jacgard bar, 40 reeds for design pattern and one
elastic ground reed.
High speed raschel machine RD6DPLM/12-3-EBC-
77'-22G can produce non-pulling-out pile fabric with
high density such as 658 piles/cm2, and this fabric is
named Spacer Fabric. Each needle can be exchanged on
this machine, instead of one cash block exchange.
Therefore needle-loss is saved. At demonstration, it was
knitting the fabric for sports shoes using six reeds at 850
rpm. Liba displayed ten types of machines at '91 ITMA
and this time displayed the best two types.
Fig. 21 Electronically controlled jacqurd knitting Copcentra 3/2ESJ80 was a redesigned high speed tricot
machine KSJ 3/1 with one jacqurd bar machine whose original machine was displayed at '91

Vol. 40. No. 2(1994) 47

 At the present time huge amount of knitted goods are
imported into Japan. In order to compete with other
foreign countries that produce goods at low price by
means of plenty of workers at low wages, we must lay
much emphasis on planning and quick production
systems by taking advantage of the advanced technology.
I'm very glad to see that there were surprisingly fast
progress on electronically controlled machines or design
systems at the 5th OTEMAS.
Tendency of casualization in the apparel field is a fair
wind for the knit industry, and the same is felt strongly at
the recent fashion shows held in Europe and USA.
As there are still a lot of themes left for technical
development relating to knitting, much efforts are
wanted for every one in the knitting field.

Fig. 22 Knitting element of Copcentra 3/2 ESJ 80

Nonwovens Manufacturing
Machinery

Osamu Yaida
Department of Textile Science, Kyoto Women's
University

1. Introduction

The production of nonwovens in Japan is estimated to

be about 185,000 tons. This is equivalent to a fifth of the
production in the U.S. and a third of that in Europe and
the average of yearly growth rate for the various
Fig. 23 Sectional jacquard bar of Copcentra 3/2 ESJ
80 manufacturing methods of nonwovens is 10%. This
growth has been supported by the mainly by the
prosperity of the overall Japanese economy, but it is also
ITMA. Fig. 22 shows its knitting element, and Fig. 23 the result of timely efforts done by the industry to deal
the sectional jacquard bar. At demonstration, it was with the minutest changes in market needs.
knitting the fabric for lingerie using 130" 32G 3 reeds at The market needs for nonwovens at present are;
1,500 rpm. 1) Products like woven fabric 2) Products with
Racop 4KE EBA was a super high speed raschel washing durability 3) Disposable products with moisture
machine adopting short-stroke compound needles, and vapor transmission, bacteriabarrier and soft handle 4)
was knitting two way elastic fabric with 171" 32G 4 Products with superior formability of deep patterns 5)
reeds at 2,200 rpm. This machine was equipped with a Products with superior stretchability 6) Products for high
cooling and a heating systems inside to keep the performance fine filters 7) High performance products
temperature constant. A crank shaft method adopted on for FRP 8) Products for wiping cloth with superior
this machine contributed to save energy and reduce noise. absorption of liquids 9) Substitute products for banned
products such as asbestos, urethane mat, etc. 10)
5. Conclusion Products for low cost artificial leathers 11) High
performance products for manufacturing, building and
Plenty of new machines and interesting fabrics were construction 12) Low cost disposable products. The trend
displayed at this 5th OTEMAS, and all visitors enjoyed in the development of nonwoven fabric machines and
this exhibition. manufacturing technologies are inevitably closely related
OTEMAS is not a local version of ITMA any more, to these market needs.
but a valuable opportunity to catch the latest information The number of exhibitors in 5th OTEMAS were 16 in
from the world. The numberr of visitors from Asian the field of lap forming machines, 8 in random webbers,
countries was 14,600 which increased by 37% more than 11 in needling machines, 19 in bonding machines, 8 in
that of the last OTEMAS. spunbonding machines, 2 in stitching machines, 25 in

48 Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan