75 85 Tuba Culture in Leyte
75 85 Tuba Culture in Leyte
Abstract
This research work centers on the culture of tuba, a fermented drink primarily
composed of coconut sap and barok. This drink is commonly found in the province of Leyte,
Philippines. Utilizing oral history coupled with related studies from reputable journals, this
paper presents tuba as a beverage common and perfected in the province of Leyte, hence
forms part Leyte's tangible culture. Further, this liquor, being a commodity, can be a source
of income on the part of the mananggiti, the alpor, and anyone who wishes to sell it. This
paper also narrates how tuba is valued as part of Leyte’s culture, and tries to understand
how tuba nurtures certain Filipino values. This paper concludes that this liquor is essential
to the province’s culture, hence, worthy to be documented and perpetuated by highlighting
the need to elevate the value of the mananggiti.
glutinous rice, and chocolate powder, is from the work relied mainly on this method. However,
town of Abuyog, Leyte. Binagol, another delicacy several books, journal articles, and other texts
that is made up of cassava is proudly introduced have been used to acquire insights that discuss
by Dagami, another town in Leyte. There are other the nature of tuba itself, wines and winemaking,
towns from this province that can showcase their and the socio-cultural aspect of these types of
original product and the two mentioned are just to commodities. The convergence of data acquired
name a few (Villafuerte, 2022). Tuba is not however, through oral history method coupled with these
produced exclusively by a specific town in Leyte, books and articles gave eloquence and coherence
but can be found in many parts of the province. to this research paper.
No particular town in the province can rightfully An interview guide was created. The
claim that they have the best tuba because almost questionnaire was both in English and vernacular
all of these places produce a better version. The so interviewees can select the one which they feel
difference lies on the fermentation process. is easier to understand. Permissions from local
There are three gaps that this research intends government officials were secured since it is a
to determine. Firstly, this research work will discuss necessity.
and document the essence of tuba and its process During the interview, voice recorders and
of fermentation to consumption. It is one of Leyte’s video cameras were used in storing information.
better and beloved products, hence part of the The clips were transcribed, and the same was used
province’s tangible culture. Secondly, since tuba as a primary source of information in connection
can be sold, it may be a source of income. This with the topic of the research.
work will establish the monetary benefit that tuba
can give to both the mananggiti and the alpor. Locale of the Study
Thirdly, this part will delve into the relevance of Leyte was the primary research locale of this
tuba as part of Leyte’s intangible culture. I will work. Specifically, the researchers visited the
attempt to intertwine how tuba nourishes certain municipalities of Barugo, Abuyog, Palo, Baybay,
Filipino values when Leyteños gather to celebrate Dulag, Burauen, and Tanauan. Tuba is abundant
or entertain guests. The connection between tuba in these places. Tacloban City, being the capital of
as tangible culture and certain Filipino values as Region VIII where Leyte is located, is also included
intangible culture will be beautifully displayed but more on the aspect of consumerism.
resulting in the enhancement of Leyte’s cultural
perspective. Research Informants
Table 1 shows the summary of informants.
2.0 Methodology For the purpose of clarity, I have classified the
This study utilizes the oral history method. respondents into three groups namely, mananggiti,
Oral history employs interviews in obtaining alpor, and consumer. I used the term consumer to
information from persons who know the subject signify neither mananggiti nor alpor but merely
matter being studied. It is the process of recording those who love to drink tuba, although both
historical events or practices which have been mananggiti and alpor also love to drink tuba. In the
transferred from one generation to the next by in-text citation process quoting this participants,
word of mouth (Foronda, 1978). This method allows I use A to mean Alpor, M for mananngiti, and C
researchers to document or record these historical for consumers. This will give clarity on which
gems (Starr, n.d.). The three parts of this research group gives the information. Beside the letter, a
https://doi.org/10.32871/rmrj2210.02.01 Agaton 77
number will be used depending on the order of of this province. It is arguably the best locally
interviewees. The informants of this research work made product of this province, and as such, it has
are summarized as follows: become one of its better tangible cultures. The
second connotation is on the effect of this product
Table 1. Profile of Informants as it cultivates values among Leyteños through the
Number of Number Interviewed aid of this beverage. Values form part of culture,
Address and as they are nourished, a culture of a locality is
Mananggiti of Alpor Consumer
Tanauan 6 1 0 likewise strengthened.
Abuyog 6 1 0
The Essence of Tuba and Tuba-Making
Baybay 6 0 0
Every kind of wine undergoes a certain process
Burauen 2 1 1
before it becomes the type of alcoholic beverage
Palo 3 1 2
that a person or winemaker wants it to be. Without
Barugo 4 0 0 the steps or the process being faithfully followed,
Dulag 5 0 1 the wine will never reach its aromatic and perfect
Tacloban 0 0 12 stage. Some would turn into vinegar. It is not
wasted since vinegar is still consumable. It can be
used for cooking meat, fish, vegetables, and even
Ethical Consideration
pastries.
This study observed ethical practice with
regard to the identities of the interviewees.
From Fermentation to Consumption
Before the conduct of interviews or focus group
The production of Tuba begins with the
discussions, the interviewees were informed that
mananggiti and the coconut tree. The person
this work will have no adverse effect on them as
who takes charge in making the process faithfully
this is just an oral history showcasing one of Leyte’s
executed especially the one who does the first
finer products, and to this they agreed.
step is the wine-gatherer or locally known as
Mananggiti or Manangguete or Manaranggot.
3.0 Results and Discussion
Without this skilled worker, there will be no Tuba.
The flow of this work will follow the three
In all parts of Leyte where Tuba can be located, it
gaps I mentioned in the introduction. It will begin
all starts with this person. Basically, they are called
firstly with a discussion and documentation on
Mananggiti/s from the Lineyte-Samarnon root
the nature or essence of tuba and its process from
word Sanggot. Sanggot means to extract juice
fermentation to consumption. The economic
from the coconut spathe. A mananggiti prepares
consideration follows to emphasize the monetary
his knife, kawit1, barok, and a number of smaller
benefits of this product. It will delve into the
containers normally 1 liter in size (M6).
situation of the mananggiti compared to the
alpor concerning the price equilibrium of the
1
commodity. Then, the discussion will proceed to A kawit is a large container normally made of bamboo.
The mananggiti uses it to store the coconut sap he took
the cultural implication of tuba that is twofold.
from the smaller container he attached to a number
The first consideration tackles tuba as part of the coconut spathe. It is termed as kawit (hook) because a hook
province of Leyte’s better produce. The perfect is attached to the bamboo enabling the mananggiti to
carry it in his shoulder.
fermentation of it is proudly claimed by the people
78 Recoletos Multidisciplinary Research Journal Vol. 10 no. 2 December 2022
These smaller containers2 are those that The gathered coconut sap is transferred to the
are attached to the coconut spathe to drain the kawit and at the same time mixes the barok with it.
dripping coconut sap. Prior to proceeding to the The more barok, the redder the sap becomes. The
site where coconut trees are located, the barok is quality and amount of barok mixed to the sap is
chopped into smaller pieces using his knife, puts critical because it affects the quality of tuba, “iton
it in a container preferably a cellophane, and pagbutang hiton barok ginsusukol gihapon, kay
attaches it to his waist. He climbs up a coconut magsobra ngani mapait, magkulang liwat lapsaw”
tree, chops a portion of the coconut spathe, inserts (M3). They are critical with choosing the barok. The
the smaller container, then ties it up securely. fresher the better. They are very specific with the
Properly securing the container will disable some right amount of barok because putting too much
insects to penetrate. Sometimes, however, when into the sap results to very bitter taste, and putting
these containers are not properly attached and a lesser barok results to an imperfect mixture of
secured, lizards, cockroaches, and other insects tuba. The barok is an essential part in the aging
contaminate the sap. process of tuba. The tuba is then placed in a
The mananggiti is not critical about the type bigger container normally a plastic jug then the
of coconut tree to harvest the sap, as long as the mananggiti can either sell it to the alpor or keep it
spathe is available (M1). But focus group discussion to himself for consumption.
revealed that the eastern part of Leyte produces
the better sap compared to the western part,
“aanhi gud nga parti hiton Leyte iton marasa nga
tuba” (A2). The coconut spathe is the same part
of the coconut tree where its fruit comes out.
However, while the spathe does not produce fruit
yet, the sap can be extracted from it by slicing its
tip. This spathe will not be deprived of bearing
fruit despite the extraction of sap. They may opt to
stop extracting from the spathe to give way to the Interview with some Mananggiti and Alpor in
bearing of coconut fruits. Tanauan, Leyte
Modern Innovations
These tuba-gatherers did not introduce modern
techniques to age the wine. They only stuck to the
old method since there was nothing wrong with
the old system, “waray namon ginbago han kadaan
nga sistema kay maupay man hiya” (M7). It was
already aromatic, healthy, and appealing, that is
why there is no need for them to innovate. One can
appreciate the historical tact that their forefathers
Mananggiti doing his daily chore have devoted to initiating and perpetuating any
type of wine from any part of the globe (Hulkower,
2
These smaller containers were originally made from 2020). The inclusion of a new strategy might just
bamboo although smaller in size compared to the kawit.
Recently, a number of mananggiti have already resorted to alter or defeat the good taste of Tuba. Recently,
using plastic containers. there is a newer aging process of tuba using certain
https://doi.org/10.32871/rmrj2210.02.01 Agaton 79
chemicals and machines to hasten the process vulnerability and adhering to the plastic’s strength
but several Alpor3 and Mananggiti had negative despite continuous transport and handling. In
outlook on the advent of this method because it Palo, Leyte some would bury tuba underground
is not natural anymore (M4). The real ingredients to assist the aging process, “nagtesting la an akon
of Tuba are only Tuba and Barok or Tungog4. The tatay paglubong hin tuba para magpabahal, alagad
bark of this mangrove plant is dried up, chopped kay maupay an resulta” (A3), while some would
into pieces, and then mixed with coconut sap put raisins to add aroma to it, “mas mahamot iton
to constitute tuba (Polistico, 2011). Its reddish mayda pasas” (C5). During the aging process, it
appearance makes tuba red as well. should not be exposed to direct sunlight, otherwise
it will turn to vinegar. The containers must be filled
fully, otherwise, it will not age well or might even
turn to vinegar.
During the early stages of the process,
fermentation results in distillation that sediments
are formed at the bottom of the container. After
a week, one needs to transfer the distilled part to
another container, so a further round of distillation
can happen. After another week, the distilled part is
Samples of Tuba
The one on the left is only in its first few days but the transferred again to another container, so another
one in the right has been aged for months or years. round of distillation happens. This process will
go on until no more sediments are formed at the
The aging process of tuba begins in this phase. bottom of the container. From there, the tuba will
The alpor, mananggiti, or anybody who opts to stay in the container until it reaches the bahalina
age it either chooses plastic or glass containers. level, “ginbuburubasya iton tuba hin senemana.
Glass containers are the best when aging tuba, Paglabay hiton usa ka semana nga mayda largo ha
“pinakamaupay iton glass nga surudlan kay maupay ubos, igbabasya ha iba nga surudlan, hasta ngada
iton pagbahal” (A2). Plastic containers being as such nga waray na largo” (M3). Tuba is termed as bahal
can sometimes affect the taste of tuba especially when aged until its 6th month. It is termed as
new containers. The plastic-like taste most often is bahalina when aged until 1 year or more (A1). The
added to the tuba. But this is not the case for glass more it ages the more alcohol contents it develops
containers. (Sanchez, 2008). Hence, the terms bahal and
In the past, alpor would really use the dama bahalina refer to the age, taste, and alcohol content
juana in aging tuba but recently, many have of tuba. At any stage of the fermentation process, it
resorted to plastic containers due to glass’ is already consumable. Some would prefer to drink
it at the outset of the process because it is sweet,
3
An Alpor is a person who buys and gathers coconut sap while some others would prefer to take it when it
from various mananggiti. He transfers all the tuba that has turned into bahal or bahalina.
he bought to a better and bigger container to monitor
meticulously the aging process.
Based on the interviews and personal
4
A barok or tungog is a type of mangrove plant found in communications cited, learning how to make
Tawi-Tawi, Philippines, and Malaysia. For the waray-waray tuba will continue as long as there are coconut
speaking people in Leyte, they call it barok, but for the
Bisaya speaking, they call it tungog. trees. There will always be new generations of
80 Recoletos Multidisciplinary Research Journal Vol. 10 no. 2 December 2022
mananggiti who are either inclined or forced to he secured earlier in the day and then sells it to
engage in this activity. These pronouncements the Alpor. They earned on sap gathering and
will result in the perpetuation of this liquor. The likewise earned on another job during the day.
people of Leyte have been acquainted so much They professed that they resort to other means to
with this type of wine. They love this product, and earn more for the sake of their respective families.
this reciprocates the mananggiti’s willingness to None of them said that they will just wait for the
continuously produce tuba. These realities have container to be filled.
resulted in solidifying tuba as one of Leyte’s better
tangible cultural icons.
During the conduct of this study, very few Tuba and Culture
among the sap-gatherers were well-off, but all Culture is the totality of the human spirit
alpor were financially stable. The alpor buys it at a (Montemayor, 1992). It refers to the entirety of the
low price but sells it to the market at a higher rate. human person's achievements and activities, both
The mananggiti only has the alpor for a market, but tangible and intangible, and practically everything
the alpor can sell this product locally, nationally, about society. It may also include humanities,
and internationally. For instance, a mananggiti sells philosophy, and language (Panopio et al., 2004).
one jug of tuba to an alpor for 100 Philippine pesos, Culture refers to the past, present, and future of
but an alpor, after aging the tuba for a few months everything that forms parts of the human person
or year, can sell it for 1000 Philippine pesos. This and the society he is into. It refers to the total and
is however fair considering that aging tuba takes distinctive way of human life and achievements
time and dedication. Hence, these mananggiti may whether the material or non-material aspects of
have been in the job for forty to fifty years yet their society. From these ideas emanate the notions
financial capacity has not improved. While these of goods, products, and services to attract the
alpors, even if they have just been in the business human person. Tuba is produced in other parts
for five to ten years, they have already reached the of the country, but no ethnic group does the
height of their expected economic progression. fermentation process better than the Leyteños.
Besides, some of them are now expanding their Even the tuba-gatherers (mananggiti) of Baybay
business outside the region and even exporting City, Leyte admit that the eastern part of Leyte
outside the country. There should be equilibrium produces better. This was unanimously agreed on
between these two players. As revealed by one by the managgiti during the first FGD session. They
of the alpors, few alpors engage in coconut sap have already mastered the fermentation process.
gathering because they are dependent on the Besides, in (Pacho, 2010), the study conducted
mananggiti (M10). An intervention from the focused on the marketability of tuba in Tacloban
government might settle this issue by stipulating City, Leyte showing among others, that Leyte, is
a specific price for every jug or gallon of coconut indeed at the forefront of tuba-making. Hence, a
sap that a mananggiti sells to an alpor. If this tangible culture of the province.
happens, there is a tendency for an increase in the Tuba is alcoholic just like most wines, and
price of this commodity once it reaches the market. excessive intake of it will intoxicate a person. A
However, this scenario will give justice and dignity coconut sap without barok normally has 2 – 4%
to the mananggiti’s important role as the person alcohol, while sap combined with barok and aged
who makes the first step of the entire process of further may contain 10 – 14% alcohol (Sanchez,
tuba making. One of the interviewed consumers 2008). As an alcoholic beverage, moderation must
opined that if the price of the tuba in the market be exercised since intoxication sometimes leads
increases, Leyteños will still patronize this product to unpleasant behavior. Since it is relatively low in
because of their simple love for it (C2). alcohol, it may take a while before a person gets
drunk, and this helps prolong and reminisce stories
Tuba, Culture, and Values and laughter among peers (C3). A simple gathering
Wine and culture are related concepts in of two or three people would best be enjoyable
various countries. There were times when wine and memorable when there is tuba to drink. Wine
was an elitist social construct but later on became facilitates social gatherings and camaraderie. It
part of the human lifestyle (Ritchie, 2009). makes get-togethers fun, lively, and interactive. It
82 Recoletos Multidisciplinary Research Journal Vol. 10 no. 2 December 2022
gives meaning to culture and connection among Some values can be formed and nourished
peers drawing from it a sense of identity and with the aid of Tuba. First, hospitality is an act shown
closeness (Hulkower, 2020). by a person towards another who needs food or
Tuba being a product of Leyte, which has been shelter. It is like a warm acceptance of a person
part of the life of the Leyteños, is part of Leyte's into one’s house as well as its amenities. Filipinos
culture. It has been part of Leyte's tradition and are known to be hospitable and friendly. When
heritage. Through the years, it has been associated a family member or close relative from remote
with Leyteños and other people earnestly identify towns or provinces visits or has a business call in
the product with Leyte. During celebrations, a city or metropolis, more often they would prefer
visitors would normally ask for it, “tuba gud iton to stay with a relative rather than spend the night
kasagaran ginaaro hiton bisita” (C5). Household in a hotel. Filipinos value close family ties and love
owners or guests may prepare other hard liquors to rekindle closeness and love. The night or nights
but the primary beverage that is being requested spent normally begins with a meal then culminates
by their visitors is tuba. over a liter or more of. Conversations, reminiscing
of many experiences, and sharing of ideas comprise
Tuba and Filipino Values a memorable moment with another person. In
Filipinos love to gather and celebrate. During Leyte, these gestures of goodwill and kindness are
the entire year, gatherings are rampant like better served with Tuba. Some interviewees prefer
birthdays, death anniversaries, and especially tuba over other alcoholic beverages because of
reunions during the Christmas season. In Leyte, its minimal alcohol content. It takes time before a
people have a local term called dinominggo which person gets intoxicated, “maiha makahubog iton
is loosely translated as simple and unprepared tuba” (C3).
gatherings every Sunday. Sunday is a day of rest, Second, Amor Propio is sensitivity towards
especially among Christians, and drinking tuba is a another person especially his feelings and emotions
form of rest or recreation. Older folks and middle- to maintain social acceptance (Andres, 1981). This
aged persons appreciate this, “ma lagas o mabatan- Filipino value is manifested in hiya, utang na loob,
on, naruruyag gud hiton tuba” (C3). After a long and smooth interpersonal relationships. Utang na
week of work, they intend to relax and culminate Loob is also known as the debt of gratitude. It is
the week with a simple but lively get-together even best portrayed when a person has been extended
just in a small group or among family members. with help by another person which is impossible
Values are ideas and norms men consider to quantify for repayment (Agaton, 2017). Hiya
relevant and desirable (Panopio et al., 2004). Values may occur when a person fails to repay another.
are those guiding principles that man should While SIR is shown by a person who is hesitant
know and understand to achieve a character to say no or has difficulty showing frankness for
which true, good, and wanted (Jocano, 1997). The fear of retaliatory anger from another (Jocano,
values in a given society can be deducted from 1997). The bond of friendship is susceptible to
ordinary conversations and works of travelers, misunderstanding or shortcomings, but these
missionaries, folklorists, novelists, social scientists, situations can be settled through SIR which most
such as educators, social workers, and community Filipinos employ to settle controversies. Some
development workers (Panopio et al., 2004). interviewees said that, when differences are settled,
Ordinary conversations, for instance, can be the start it culminates with a rekindling of relationship over
of a friendship or renewal of a tarnished relationship. a pitcher or even a gallon of tuba, or when a group
https://doi.org/10.32871/rmrj2210.02.01 Agaton 83
is composed of several persons, they may end up hiton semana nga trabaho, maupay gud imnan”
consuming even a jug. Normally, when a person (C5). Some love to go to bars, restaurants, and
needs help, he visits his relatives or friends to seek resorts, but some prefer to have it at home. The
assistance. There are times when he gets rejected, drinking session is better with family or friends,
but there are also instances when is abetted. This and those who desire to hold it at home end up
is a normal scenario considering that there are also with tuba as the liquor of preference.
times when relatives and friends are also needy.
When a person is abetted, the meeting sometimes
ends up with a sharing of tuba, “iton pakigurusa,
mas marasa kun mayda tuba” (C3). Aside from the
illustration of amor propio, hospitality also played
a role in the meeting.
Third, Pakikisama means good public relations
either with his family, friends, or workmates. A
Filipino must try to avoid openly hurting another
person, instead, he must possess goodwill and
companionship with his fellow (Jocano, 2000). This Old folks sharing stories over a pitcher of Tuba
value is again one of the traits that one can find in
a Filipino or Leyteño for that matter. Filipinos do
not want to disappoint their fellow by ignoring
his person or offers in public for this will result in
insult and disagreement. In normal circumstances,
when a person is tired from work or other human
activity, he rests, for it is the best way to replenish
lost energy. In Leyte, a day’s hard work can end
with a shot or shots of tuba with family or friends,
“kasagaran, basta kahuhuman hiton adlaw nga
Some Leyteños chat and share a jug of Tuba after a
makapoy, maupay imnan hin tuba” (C1). It becomes day’s work
difficult for him to refuse the offer because
of pakikisama. He is not, however, obliged to Yearly Spectacle
consume numerous glasses of it. A simple gesture Just like in the thirteenth century when French
of pakikisama coupled with a glass or two or even king Phillip II hosted a wine-tasting competition
five of tuba is enough to show that he accepted in Europe (Shapin, 2012), every year for three
and enjoyed the offer. The better part of this years now and counting, a political party list in
beverage compared to other liquors is its minimal the Philippines has been hosting the Oktubafest
alcohol content which means that hangover is also featuring competitions like Best Bahalina, Best
less. Even if one is tired and has taken some glasses Kawit, Best Photo Essay, Best Dish with Tuba and
of tuba, he is not impaired from reporting to work among others. All cities and municipalities in Leyte
the next day. Friday is the last day of work and and even Samar and Biliran islands would join in
Saturday for some. Leyteños love to end the long this spectacle showcasing Leyte’s best product –
week of work with tuba sessions, “labina katapos Tuba.
84 Recoletos Multidisciplinary Research Journal Vol. 10 no. 2 December 2022