COURSE CODE: 43B

THE BUSINESS OF FASHION

UNIT-1 WORLD OF FASHION-AN OVERVIEW

Factors influencing fashion changes – Accelerating and Decelerating factors

Fashion, by nature, is a dynamic and transient culture, which keeps changing in time and space. In
fact, if we talk about the permanent thing, there is hardly anything on the planet earth, which has such
property, everything keeps changing. Since, human mind is also part of this planet; so, it also seeks changes
in terms of place of living, food, and of course cloth or fashion. People want to have new styles and new
fashions.

But such changes are not essentially and always because of people’s wishes, but rather there are
many other causes that influence fashion.

Factors That Influence Fashion

Human nature, of course, is one of the most important reasons for changing fashion, as it always demands
new and trendy products. But along with it, the following are some other significant factors that influence
fashion:
1. Psychological Factor
2. Social Factor
3. Economic Factor
4. Cultural Factor
5. Political Factor
6. Environmental Factor
7. Physiological Factor
Let’s discuss each one of them separately:
Psychological Factor
Psychological factor is an important factor that influences a person to follow a trend or may influence the
opposite. In other words, everyone following the jeans and shirt, but one person prefers to wear pajama
kurta (the ethnic wear). So, it expresses individuality and does not get influenced by society. Likewise,
many times, it gives importance to personal choice instead of following the trends.
Social Factor
Social factor is one of the most significant factors that influence fashion frequently and expansively. Its area
is pretty wide and includes many factors, such as place of living (urban area or rural area), educational and
cultural background, status in society, gender, profession, and, of course, occasions. These factors,
sometimes influence separately or sometimes collectively.
Economic Factor
Interestingly, fashion is one of the indicators that reflects the financial condition of a person in his society
and economic condition of country in the whole world. Fashion reflects the availability of raw materials,
level of infrastructure, and technological advancement in a particular country. So, if a country is rich and

1
developed, fashion in that country will be luxurious. On the other hand, fashion in developing or
underdeveloped countries, is at a very low level.
Cultural Factor
Culture is the traditions and practices that a society of a particular region follows in a given period in time.
Every society has its own culture; hence, not only fashion influences culture, but rather culture also
influences fashion vice-versa. For example, an old man who always wore pajama kurta (the traditional
dress) started wearing track suits, jeans, etc.
Political Factor
Directly or indirectly, political factor also plays an important role in influencing fashion. Time to time,
government keep changing the law, economic policies, and political policies, all these factors, collectively
influence fashion. For example, in the early 1990s, liberalization, globalization, and privatization of the
Indian economy encouraged many foreign fashion companies to launch their products in India, which
greatly influenced the fashion.

Environmental Factor
Environmental factor largely includes seasons, like the winter season, which have entirely different clothing
styles, influences fashion; the summer season, in this season, people prefer to wear only light cotton shirts
and pants, t-shirts, jeans, etc.; and in rainy season, people prefer to have differently designed raincoats and
other waterproof cloth.
Physiological Factor
It includes age, skin color, body structure, height of the person, etc. With growing age, people change their
choices. So, fashion is essentially guided by such principles as well.

Some other factors that influence fashion are:

Dominating events: some of the significant events, like war, big national level cultural events, fashion
events/shows, etc. influence fashion.
Influence of celebrities: most of the youngsters in society, get easily influenced by the film stars, sports
persons, musicians, and other celebrity kind of people. In fact, the dressing style, walking, speaking, and
appearance styles of these celebrities are very important factors that influence especially youngsters and
they seek same designs and brands.
Geographical Factors: geography involves many factors, but significant among them are, of course, relief
features and the location of the region (either located in a hilly region, or along the bank of a river, desert,
etc.). All these factors influence fashion.

2
 Technological Advancement: technology not only helped researchers and scholars to research new things,
but also influenced fashion designers. By using technology, fashion designers create designs virtually and
then decide whether it is worth to materialize it or not.

Conclusion

Likewise, fashion, which reflects the overall human condition and their status, is an integral aspect of our
lives as well as our society. It influences as well as gets influenced. There are certain factors that influence
fashion, such as psychological factors, socio-cultural factors, economic factors, environmental factors, etc.

Factors accelerating of fashion.

● Communications and mass media,
● Good economic conditions,
● Increased competition,
● Technological advances,
● Social and physical mobility,
● More leisure time,
● Higher levels of education,
● Changing roles of women,
● Seasonal changes

Factors decelerating of fashion.

● Bad economic conditions (consumers have less money to spend)
● Cultural customs (passing down traditional clothing; not buying new)
● Religion (fashion may lead to corruption and temptation)
● Laws/government regulations (tariffs, quotas)
● Disruptive world events (droughts, wars, terrorism).

INTRODUCTION TO FASHION DESIGNER

We were talking about the favorite designer. The challenge is to create a range of apparel that is as fresh as it
is innovative, season after season looks at the human form with a new attitude each time. Fashion is an
applied art as it involves technical. Yet, I don't believe in creating fashion as purely an art form. Clothes are
meant to enhance the body in the most beautiful way possible. Fashion is a creative discipline.

UNDERSTANDING FASHION DESIGNERS

TYPES OF FASHION DESIGNERS

Classicist

These types of designers are produce design following the traditional designs, colors,
silhouette and other design details like embroidery, bead work, etc. the classicist designer is one who
is responsible for radical fashion changes in fashion industry.

3
Idealist

They are unconcerned about the growth of fashion industry. The people are more concentrate in
their personal growth. They want to be ideal in the fashion industry. Their designs also differ from
others designs. Their works are out of touch with reality. This stare creation is of only worthy for ramp
shows, not for real life.

Influenced

They are copied the some other designs which was already existing in the market or they copy the
designs from foreign magazines. They have very little way of offer by their own creativity. They
make some alteration in the existing design and produce the new designs with their own label. They don't
want to take too much of risk.

Realist

They are the role models for influenced designers. These designers are most important
persons for the success of fashion industry. These creators have the pulse of market and consumers
on their finger. They produce designs with their own ideas. When compared to other designers their
works on time consuming works.

Thinking

This mission in fashion designing is to express himself. He also supplies lot of creative ideas for
other fellow designs. The thinking designer also holds the responsibility of educating the consumer in
experimenting with unusual fabric choice.

Poetic

They regard his consumer as an extension of his creativity.The first activity of this kind of designers
is to recognize the choice of consumers and then perform designers.He spends more time on accessing real
interest and needs of the consumers.The poet is said to have much fame among the public when
compare other kinds of designers.

WORLD FASHION CENTRE

Four cities have emerged as major fashion capitals: Paris, Milan London, and New York City.
American designers and brands score high when it comes to marketing savvy and making salable clothes
that appeal to the whole U.S. population and have influenced the world with their approach to sportswear.
However, it is increasingly difficult to describe the characteristics of fashion by country or fashion
capital. A clear division no longer exists between what is foreign and what is domestic; the fashion
industry is becoming a world-wide exchange of ideas, talent, material and products.
Ideas come from all over the world, textiles are exported from one country to another, production
is done almost everywhere, and nearly every country contributes in some way. Each company seeks to
expand its markets through exports and that makes them known internationally
MILAN:

To this day, Italy’s name is synonymous with trends in high fashion, which was true for the country since the
Renaissance. Italy’s reputation in fashion was first set by the monarchy. Everyone wanted to dress like the
nobility, and they dressed lavishly. The 15th century was a time of artistic flourishing and vibrant colors.

4
Women in Italy wore elaborate clothing, jewelry, makeup, and other accessories while men wore pigmented
colors and intricate embroideries on their tunics, both to signal their position and authority. You can often
see this in Leonardo da Vinci’s portraits of the Florentine elite.

During this time, cities such as Florence, Venice, Milan, Naples, and Rome produced their own textiles and
fabrics like wool, silk, and velvet. The legacy of this industry lasted through the mid-20th century when the
fashion market started to become increasingly competitive. That’s when Milan began to make a real name
for itself.

Big names in fashion like Giovanni Battista Giorgini, Emilio Pucci, and the Fontana sisters used celebrities
and the influence of the growing popularity of the film industry to put on fashion shows in Rome, Venice,
and Florence. Italy was fast becoming the destination for clothing trends around the world, and Milan
emerged victorious as the city known for fashion.

Milan Fashion
By the latter half of the 20th century, Milan was a prominent industrial city with good manufacturing
connections. Designers turned to this Italian fashion mecca for its trend-setting status, especially after 1961
when it was the headquarters of Vogue Italia. Milan-based pioneers in fashion, Giorgio Armani and Gianni
Versace, also had a huge hand in solidifying the city’s name even further after their designs became very
popular.

Milan Fashion Week

Milan’s Fashion Week finalized the city’s reputation for cutting-edge fashion. Versace’s 1991 show,
featuring supermodels like Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and more, embodied the popularity and buzz
around this lavish week. Adorned in the beautiful patterns, cuts, and colors of the iconic designers, these
opulent shows have attracted the likes of other fashion names like Gucci. Suddenly, Milan was part of the
global big four in fashion.

Milan Fashion District

Being in Milan today, it’s very easy to see its recognition as the fashion capital of Italy.
The Quadrilatero D’Oro, or the Golden Quad, comprises four streets that showcase Milanese style with
high-end shops and boutiques. Stroll through the elegant streets of Milan, and you’ll see Italy’s fashion
history firsthand, including the original Prada store that opened in 1913. This shop, with its classy
glass-covered walkway, was a favorite destination for both the Italian and European upper classes.

PARIS:

Paris has been ruling the high seas of fashion for more than three centuries. During this time it has attracted
the world’s foremost designers and seemingly imbued its citizens with an innate sense of style. For these,
and plenty of other reasons, Paris can still rightly claim its title of world fashion capital. Here's why.
Paris fashion week
The Paris Fashion Week is the finale of the big four fashion weeks – the others being Milan Fashion Week,
London Fashion Week, and New York Fashion Week. Held predominantly in the Carrousel du Louvre, Paris
fashion week helps dictate what the world will be wearing next season.
Best designers
The world’s best designers have always operated from Paris. It is currently home to the headquarters of
Rochas, Vuitton, Balenciaga, Céline, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Chloe, Jean-Paul Gaultier,
Hermès and Lanvin.
Haute couture

5
The concept of haute couture (‘high sewing’ or ‘high dressmaking’ or ‘high fashion’) was invented in Paris.
Though it originally refereed to Englishman-in-Paris Charles Frederick Worth’s work, the term has become a
‘protected name’ in France, meaning that it can only be used by companies that meet certain well-regulated
standards.
People
Some of the most stylish people on the planet were born in Paris. These include Brigitte Bardot, Catherine
Deneuve, Anne Parillaud, Juliette Binoche and Jeanne Moreau.
Golden triangle
Paris provides the ultimate dose in high-end fashion. In an area bordered by the Champs-Elysées, Avenue
Montaigne and Avenue Marceau, visitors can find the world’s top design houses – from Dior to Chanel to
Yves Saint Laurent.
Fashion trade unions
Paris retains a powerful fashion trade union known as the Fédération française de la couture. Created in
1973, the Federation is dedicated to protecting French fashion and consists of three entities – the trade union
of high fashion, the trade union of men’s fashion, and the trade union of women’s fashion.
Fashion school
Paris is home to the world’s foremost fashion school – the Ecole de la chambre syndicale de la couture
parisienne. Immersing yourself within the fashion capital requires at least basic understanding of the
language, schools such as ESL (http://www.esl.co.uk) give you the opportunity to learn French in Paris and
make the most of an amazing city.
History
Parisians have the most experience of high fashion. Couturier houses were first established in the city in
1858.
Little black dress
The LBD was invented in Paris by Coco Chanel in the 1920s. The simple, relatively short and versatile
garment is now considered an essential element of any woman’s wardrobe.

LONDON:
London is one of the dream cities for the many budding fashion designers in the world and also for the
global consumers who always seek designers’ dresses and other fashion accessories. The reason behind
having such a huge crush on the city is that London is the city that sets a new fashion trend by designing
creative and innovative couture. One of the fashion capitals of the world, London’s styles equally compete
with those of the other three fashion capitals of the world, including Paris, France; New York City, the
United States; and Milan, Italy. London fashion is, unquestionably, seen as a diverse array of fashion styles
and designs that act as a gravity center for many fashion lovers.

Reasons for Becoming One of the Fashion Capitals of the World

Since its development, London has been an attraction point for many people, mainly because it has
developed the traditional handcrafts of tailoring, shirt-making, shoemaking, and hat-making that have
promoted profoundly the images of the English gentleman, a vivacious sub-cultural club, and a street scene
across the world. It also portrayed the eccentric and innovative design talent in its famous art schools. All
these things have flourished during the twentieth century. However, the beginning of fashion in London
started with the development of the city itself.

The Historical Development of London as a Fashion City

6
The industrial revolution in the UK had given a boom start to many businesses; likewise, the textile
industry had also started businesses on a large scale. As a result, London operated as a natural hub for trade
and cultural exchange during the late medieval period. In due course of time, London started acting as a
transit point, exporting primary or unfinished products such as wool and metal and importing luxurious
products such as fur and other embroidered goods. In parallel to this, London was also developing as an
administrative and financial center.

Parliament, courts, and other such centers were established. All these things attracted many businessmen
and industrialists from different regions of the country, which acted as a catalyst in the development of
fashionable trends.

During the 19th century, the clothing industries in London expanded into many remote regions. The
growing population and the advancement of technology made it very easy.

During the 20th century, London witnessed an array of different trends and stylish designs. It was the
period of the paradigm shift, and old and modern dresses could be perceptibly seen. This modernity in
fashion fascinates many people, especially those of the younger generation. Women's fashion can also be
seen in some daring ways after World War II (mid-twentieth century), because by that time, women had
begun to wear trousers and other such dresses. In 1950s and 60s, full skirts became the height of fashion.
Furthermore, with the development of Carnaby Street in the 1960s and the Punks of the 1970s on King's
Road, the city witnessed rebellious and bizarre fashion styles. Further, the working classes had chosen more
outspoken trends, giving an outlet for rebellion and individualism.

Moreover, the fashion industry in London also nurtured many innovative and creative fashion designers,
including Mary Quant, Barbara Hulanicki, and Ossie Clarke in the 1960s, who designed funky, sensual
styles; Zandra Rhodes, and Vivienne Westwood in the 1970s, who created an unconventional and vibrant
style, embracing free spirit and unique style. Other significant designers are Henry Holland, John Galliano,
Katharine Hamnett, and Zac Posen.

London Fashion Week

On top of this, the commencement of London Fashion Week in 1983 made London one of the four fashion
capitals of the world.

Conclusion

London City played a very important role in the development of the world’s fashion industry and in the
creation of creative and eccentric fashion trends. It is one of the oldest fashion centers in the world that has
given birth to many new royal and street or common people’s designs. Because of its vibrant and
progressive fashion trends, it has become one of the fashion capitals of the world and a dream fashion city
for upcoming fashion designers and other fashion lovers.

NEW YORK:

It is no secret that New York is a major player in the fashion industry and the birthplace of Fashion
Week. The city has a unique creative vitality that is unmatched anywhere else on the globe, and it is also
without a doubt one of the top shopping destinations in the world. In the Big Apple, style is all about
self-assurance and dressing for a cause. The attire in the city shows the city’s enormous diversity. The
unwritten rule in NYC is to wear all black if you’re unsure. By experimenting with various styles and
adding statement items, New Yorkers have a knack for making an all-black outfit look distinctive.
The Big Apple, a major hub for the fashion Industry, events, and trade fairs, has been having a
significant impact on global fashion trends. New York has been recognised as the top global fashion capital,
according to The Global Language Monitor. “New York City has earned its Top Global Fashion Capital
ranking through its disciplined, logical yet creative approach to the fashion business,” says Bekka Payack,
Global Language Monitor’s fashion director based in New York. The rankings also highlight the creative
energy that is growing in the fashion industry globally as a source of employment, revenue, and

7
wealth—not to mention the prestige that comes with showcasing your sense of style to the rest of the world.
The city’s admiration from Diane von Furstenberg, who said, “There’s a buzz, a creative spirit in New York
City that can’t be found anywhere else in the world,” further supports the victory. It’s a remarkably
stimulating environment for fashion, which, in my opinion, explains why so many people come here.
Simply put, New York is the most stylish city.
Important Fashion Events and Destinations
These are -
Fashion Week in New York
NYFW, one of the biggest fashion shows in the world, is mostly for industry insiders. Nevertheless, there
are a few fun public events worth keeping an eye out for. International fashion collections are displayed to
buyers, the media, and the general public during New York Fashion Week (NYFW), a semi-annual series of
events in Manhattan that typically lasts 7-9 days. NYFW is held in February and September of each year. It
is one of the “Big 4”—the four biggest fashion weeks in the world—along with those in Paris, London, and
Milan.
Fashion Technology Institute (FIT)
A public university in New York City is called the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). It is a component
of the State University of New York (SUNY) and concentrates on technology, design, business, and art
related to the fashion industry. In 1944, it was founded. With regard to majors, the School of Art and Design
offers seventeen options. Through the Center for Professional Studies, FIT also provides a large selection of
non-credit courses in addition to its degree programs. With over 50,000 costumes, fabrics, apparel, and
accessories dating back to the 18th century and beyond, The Museum at FIT is the only museum in New
York dedicated completely to fashion.
Global Fashion Center
Fashion continues to be at the core of New York City’s cultural identity, a city that takes pride in pushing
the boundaries of industry and commerce. Fashion is everlasting, from the hundreds of fashion businesses
that call the city home to the famed New York Fashion Week to the role the sector plays in NYC. The
Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), Parsons School of Design, and Pratt Institute are three of the most
renowned fashion design schools in the nation, and they are all located in New York City. Additionally,
business-related schools in New York City, like LIM College, concentrate on the marketing, merchandising,
and international supply chain aspects of the fashion industry. Over 20,000 students are annually educated
at these institutions collectively. One of the best and largest creative talent pools in the nation, retail space in
high-traffic areas, some of the best manufacturers and ateliers, fashion schools, and more fashion brand and
retailer headquarters than any other city in the nation can be found in New York City. Fashion is a key
contributor to New York City’s economy, employing 4.6% of the city’s private sector workforce.
Conclusion
Finally, what distinguishes New York City as the fashion capital of the world? Fashion ideas germinate and
trends are established in New York, which is at the forefront of fashion innovation. NYCEDC asserts that
New York City is the centre of the fashion world, where everything happens first. Additionally, it is said
that New York City has more fashion industry showrooms than any other city in the world, numbering over
5,000. The city is the epicentre of fashion, with unrivalled resources like an abundance of creative talent,
retail space in busy areas, and more headquarters for fashion designers and stores than any other city in the
nation.

8
UNIT:2 LEGENDARY FASHION DESIGNERS
YVES SAINT LAURENT
SUMMARY

Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008) was a French fashion designer who, in 1961, founded became
popular in fashion circles due to his creativity in redesigning the clothes.

Perhaps, one of the most famous fashion designers in France, Yves was the first one to introduce
power dressing for women in the form of “power suits” in the year 1966.

He is also credited with designing the men’s smoking jacket. The most important fashion legacy
which he has left behind is the “ready-to-wear” fashion clothing.

BIOGRAPHY

YOUNG LIFE AND CAREER

In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted three sketches to a contest for young fashion designers organised
by the International Wool Secretariat. Saint Laurent won first place.

Subsequently, he was invited to attend the awards ceremony held in Paris in December of that same
year.

He began working for Dior as a young man. Although Dior recognised his talent immediately, Saint
Laurent spent his first year at the House of Dior on mundane tasks, such as decorating the studio and
designing accessories. Eventually, however, he was allowed to submit sketches for the couture collection;
with every passing season, more of his sketches were accepted by Dior.

In 1960 he and his partner, industrialist Pierre Bergé, started their own fashion house Yves Saint
Laurent YSL with funds from American millionaire J. Mack Robinson. The couple split romantically in
1976 but remained business partners.

In 1983, Saint Laurent became the first living fashion designer to be honoured by the Metropolitan
Museum of Art with a solo exhibition. Saint Laurent retired in 2002 and became increasingly reclusive,
living at his homes in Normandy and Morocco with his pet French Bulldog Moujik.

YVES SAINT LAURENT (BRAND)

YSV also known as Saint Laurent, is a French luxury fashion house founded by Yves Saint Laurent and his
partner, Pierre Bergé. The company revived its haute couture collection in 2015 under former Creative
Director Hedi Slimane. In April 2016, Anthony Vaccarello was appointed as the Creative Director.

Founded in 1961, it has been considered one of the world’s most prominent fashion houses and is known for
its modern and iconic pieces, such as its tuxedo jackets for women. Today, Saint Laurent markets a broad
range of women’s and men’s ready-to-wear products, leather goods, shoes, and jewellery. Yves Saint Laurent
Beauté also has a notable presence in the luxury beauty and fragrance market

VALENTINO
Valentino’s History

9
The brand Valentino was created by an Italian fashion designer Valentino Garavani.
In 1959 the company started as a fashion house in Rome, Italy.
At the time, it focused more on ready-to-wear garments, but the Valentino brand had welcomed many other
products over the years. However, all Valentino’s products are fashion-related.
Valentino Garavani’s company is called Valentino SpA and is also known as Maison Valentino. It is among
the strongest names in the fashion industry today.
The 61-year-old fashion company ‘Valentino’ now has its headquarters at Via Turati, Milan, Italy.
Most of Valentino’s products are hand-made from Rome.
Valentino has above 150 boutiques and 1500 sales outlets in about 100 countries worldwide.
Valentino manufactures several fashion products, including; footwear, clothing, accessories, bags, perfumes,
and beauty products.
Valentino’s products are for both the male and female sexes and are available in different sizes to
accommodate people across different heights and body sizes.
Achievements
Over the years, it has been designed for several celebrities, including; Jenefer Lopez, Elizabeth Taylor, and
some others.
The most recently introduced Valentino fragrance ‘Voce Viva’ has Lady Gaga as its Ambassador.
All of Valentino’s products are luxurious, well with it being a luxury fashion company.
Valentino Brand Identity
As it appears today, Valentino is famous for several things. From the V logo trademark to the Red colour
associated with the brand. Also, the several products and fashion lines the country has. However, among
those are a few things that serve as an identity for the brand in today’s fashion world. An essential factor to
consider is time. The Valentino brand has been famous for different things at different times. Let’s explore
them all.

PIERRE CARDIN

SUMMARY

Pierre Cardin born on 2 July 1922, is an Italian, neutralized French fashion designer. He is known for
his avant-garde style and his Space Age designs. He prefers geometric shapes and motifs, often ignoring the
female form. He advanced into unisex fashion, sometimes experimental, and not always practical. He
founded his fashion house in 1950 and introduced the “bubble dress” in 1954.

BIOGRAPHY

In 1950 he founded his fashion house, then experimenting with high fashion in 1953. Cardin is known for
his avant-garde style inspired by the space age.

He prefers geometric shapes and patterns often ignoring the feminine forms. He progressed in unisex
fashion, sometimes experimental and not always practical.

In 1954 he introduced the “bubble dress”, the bubble dress.

In 1959 Cardin was the first designer to open a high fashion store in Japan. In 1987 he assumed
responsibility for high fashion collections, until his death in 1993.

Like many other designers today, Cardin decided in 1994 to show his collection only to a select group of
selected clients and journalists.

INTERESTING FACTS

10
Among the products of the Maxim’s line by Pierre Cardin there is also mineral water that is taken and
bottled in the locality of Graviserri in the municipality of Pratovecchio Stia, province of Arezzo.

Pierre Cardin, through a Chinese company, also produces electronic products under the Pierre Cardin
Electronics International brand.

On 16 October 2009, Pierre Cardin was appointed Goodwill Ambassador of the United Nations Food and
Agriculture Organization (FAO).

Pierre Cardin designed the uniforms of the People’s Liberation Army of the PRC in 1988.

AN OVERVIEW OF INDIAN FASHION DESIGNERS

MANISH MALHOTRA,
Manish Malhotra is a fashion designer, couturier, costume stylist, entrepreneur, and filmmaker based
in Mumbai. Manish is the founder of the eponymous label Manish Malhotra. His work includes designing
for thousands of movies and winning many awards. He has modernized how actors look in Indian films. He
has the art of adding freshness and reviving the forgotten crafts of India.
Early Life
Manish Malhotra, a Mumbai-born Indian designer, grew up with an eye for fashion. His love for it
was influenced by his mother’s clothes and the films he watched. As a painter in high school, Manish would
recreate her sarees from watching them on the silver screen. All of this led him to study arts at Elphinstone
College in Mumbai, where he focused on cinema.
After graduating from college at 19 years old – just as he saved Rs 90K through modeling gigs –
Manish left India to travel around Bangkok and Singapore before moving back home.
After returning home when he was still in his teens, he joined a boutique. He spent his time sketching
and draping mannequins for less than 500 rupees per month. Later in 1987, Manish decided to hire two
tailors to work from his home and started taking custom orders.
He wanted to showcase these couture designs at Ensemble but couldn’t afford them yet because of a
lack of money or education in fashion design. Manish gained experience by styling her costumes for it,
which led him into other opportunities like being accepted as the first-ever Indian costume designer in
Bollywood back in 1990.
Career of Manish Malhotra
Manish was first a bit baffled with his career, but when he met Rakesh Sreshtha-a renowned photographer in
India- the way to fashion opened up. His first attempt at making a dress for Juhi Chawla didn’t go well, but
Sreshtha persuaded him to work on modeling shoots. Gradually, Manish came into contact with actors like
Sunny Deol and Shilpa Shirodkar and gained acknowledgment and business. Later, he also met many other
young and old celebrities who wanted him for their photoshoots.
Manish Malhotra ar Lakme Fashion Show
Manish Malhotra’s career breakthrough was when he made the lead heroine of Rangeela’s clothes. From a
simple, sober character to a sultry and sexy woman, his work in Urmila Matondkar had transformed her
completely. Manish decided on what she would wear and drastically altered her hair and makeup! After this
project, he became the ‘wanted’ designer for any woman who wanted to be irresistible.
Manish Malhotra is one-of-a-kind because he spends time reading the script of a film and analyzing
characters’ personalities and roles. He never feels restricted when considering how big an actor is. The only
thing that bothers him are people who show no interest in his work by designing costumes.
Other Works
Malhotra is recognized for designing outfits for females and males in the Bollywood industry. He designed
Preity Zinta’s, Sonam Kapoor’s, Priyanka Chopra’s, Aishwarya Rai Bachan’, Alia Bhatt Katrina Kaif’s, and
Rani Mukherji’s wedding dresses. His work has also been worn at Lakme Fashion Week as well.

11
Besides these, he has created dresses for celebrities such as Hollywood’s Kate Moss and Karolina Kurkova.
He is known as the prince of ethnic yet contemporary design. Manish has received awards like the Filmfare
Award, Zee Cine Award, Showtime Opinion Poll Award, and Elle Style Awards.
Brand Collaborations
Manish Malhotra has worked with a number of Brands till date.
Hindware – 2017
Manish Malhotra worked with Hindware and created a collection of bathroom suites for the brand and also
launched super-premium brand ALCHYMI.
Femina Miss India – 2017
He had also designed costumes for the 30 finale contestants walking down the runaway for the Miss India. It
was the first time ever when the finalists of Miss India had walked the runaway wearing an Indian Designer
instead of the usual Western ones.
Vivo – 2018
Vivo collaborated with Manish Malhotra and had launched the “Infinite Red” Vivo V7+ limited edition
smartphone.
INIFD – 2018
Manish Malhotra also collaborated with International Institute of Fashion Design and London School of
Trends (LST). He gives video lectures to students from his own experience in Fashion Industry.

MANISH ARORA
Summary
Manish Arora, born in Mumbai in 1972, is one of India’s leading fashion designers. In early 2011, he was
appointed the creative director of the womenswear collection of the French fashion house Paco Rabanne, but
he left the company in May 2012.
Biography
Career
In 1997, Manish Arora started his own label “Manish Arora”, which first retailed in India. After
three years, Manish took part in the first-ever India Fashion Week held in New Delhi and represented India
at the Hong Kong Fashion Week.
In 2004, he was granted the Best Women’s Prêt Designer at the first-ever Indian Fashion Awards’
2004 held in Bombay and MC2 Diffusion Paris began representing the brand’s exports. The next year,
Manish joined the Miami Fashion Week, where he was given the designer’s choice for Best Collection
Award.
He debuted successfully at the London Fashion Week in September 2005 and gained a remarkable
response from the press and the buyers. He launched a new store at Lodhi Colony Market in New Delhi in
December 2005. Arora presented some of his designs at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London for an
exhibition named “Global Local” in alliance with the British Council, India.
“Indian by Manish Arora”, a brand designed for the growing Indian market for women’s wear, is
licensed to another fashion company. Manish was invited to show his collection at the “Fashion in Motion”
exhibition held at Victoria and Albert Museum, London in September 2007. By 2009 Manish owned four
stores in India and sold his collections to more than 80 retailers worldwide. The designer has also entered
into a joint venture with BIBA Apparels Pvt. Ltd. to further expand the label.
In 2012, Arora started his jewellery line in association with label Amrapali covering a range of hand
ornaments, necklaces and pendants.
Style
Manish Arora is considered by many as “the John Galliano of India”. He is inspired by Indian
cultural heritage, but he presents his designs with a modern and international twist. Many of his designs are
embellished with traditional Indian crafts, including appliqué, beadwork and embroidery.
In his own words: “Fashion, for me, is not just clothing; – it’s the whole character. I build these
fictitious characters in my mind right from the beginning of the collection. I make them up in my mind and

12
 work towards that personality that doesn’t exist. It’s a fantasy character, but I imagine what that person
would be like, and that’s the end result that you see in the shows”.
Awards
In 1994 Arora won second prize in the Smirnoff Fashion Awards. The following year Arora again
secured the second prize, in the Young Asian Designers Competition. He was also awarded the Most
Original Collection.

RITU BERI:

Ritu Beri is a fashion designer based in the capital of India, Delhi. Due to her immense talent and
hard-work, she went on to become the foremost Asian designer to lead the French fashion brand, Jean-Louis
Scherrer.
She started out with her own label in the year 1990, where India was still waking up to high-fashion.
To hone her skills in embroideries, Ritu Beri went to France and trained under embroidery maestro Francois
Lesage, and went on to become the first Indian fashion designer to showcase her collection in Paris. Her
collection had a strong impression of the rich Indian culture and gave the French market the first glimpse
into the mystics of Indian garments and embellishments.

From there on, her journey began to showcase her work all over the world.

The label of Ritu Beri is widespread all across the world, with her luxury retail outlets established in many
countries.
Childhood and Career

Ritu Beri’s father, Balbir Singh Beri was an assistant at IMA, Dehradun and her mother an entrepreneur. The
younger brother Navin works with her. In the year 2004, she married the exporter Bobby Chadha.

After graduating in Economics honors from Lady Shri Ram College, she joined National Institute of Fashion
Technology. Hers was the first batch graduating from NIFT, with only 25 students. For her interview at
NIFT, she hand-knitted a sweater and wore it for the interview to show how it would look. That had her
selected for the very first batch at the prestigious design institute.
The Making

Ritu Beri’s label was launched in India in the year 1990, progressing to show her collection on the ramp, in
Paris in the year 1998. She was the first Indian to feature in the Promostyl magazine, which forecasts fashion
trends. The Time magazine named her among the people to watch out for in international business. Beri is
an honorary patron at a charity, Savera Association, which is involved with improving the lives of Indian
women.

Ritu Beri has authored the book, 101 Ways to Look Good. She also wrote the Most Expensive Indian Book
on Fashion, Firefly – A Fairytale, priced at a whopping 1 lakh rupees, and in a Limited edition, only 100
copies to be sold across India. The book features topics like architecture, history, women and their beauty,
also talking about the designer’s experience in world fashion capital, Paris. Her distinguished Indian
customers are Madhuri Dixit, Parmeshwar Godrej Shobha De, Rani Mukherji, and Preity Zinta.

In 2012, the designer showcased her ethnic collection at Mumbai fashion week. Her retail stores are located
in Delhi, France & Germany.

Ritu Beri has also ventured into kid’s clothing by the name of Baby Beri.
Achievements
● In a countrywide poll, Ritu beri was chosen to be the MOST POPULAR DESIGNER.
● Representing the APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL OF INDIA, Ritu represented the rich
Indian heritage clothing through her various fashion shows.
● She represented India to mark 50 YEARS OF INDIA’S independence in countries like China, Nairobi,
Dubai, Zairo, New York and London.
13
● Ritu Beri has been the most sought after designer for many Bollywood actors.
● First Indian Designer to showcase in PARIS.
● Ritu Beri has designed a costume for THE BARBIE DOLL.
● French Fashion House SCHERRER was headed by an Asian designer, Ritu Beri.
● In order to understand the growth in various Indian sectors, Ritu Beri represented the Indian Fashion
Industry in a seminar held by COMITE COLBERT, PARIS.
● Ritu Beri has designed clothes for the like of ex-US PRESIDENT BILL CLINTON, NICOLE KIDMAN,
ANDY MCDOWELL, IVANA TRUMP, PRINCE CHARLES etc, and brought a lot of fame to Indian
clothing.
The Trendsetter

Ritu Beri is a name synonymous with rare eminence and a design sense of luxe richness. She is a success
story that is only a dream for millions. With her immense talent and hard work, she has put India on the
global fashion map.

Being the first Indian designer to show on the ramp of Paris, she has also traveled the world and drawn
accolades for her creativity and styling. The whole world has been abuzz with exclamations and appreciation
of the affluent display of luxurious silks, brocades and the rampant use of Mogul motifs.

TARUN TAHILIANI:

Summary
Tarun Tahiliani is a noted Indian fashion designer. He is very private with his life, so the year of his birth is
unknown to the public. With his wife Sailaja ‘Sal’ Tahiliani, he launched Ensemble, India’s first
multi-designer boutique in 1987, followed by Tahiliani Design studio in 1990.

He is best known for his ability to infuse Indian craftsmanship and textile heritage with a tailored silhouette.
His signature is to combine traditional aesthetics with modern design. Over the years, he also became known
for his bridalwear.

History
Tahiliani spent his childhood years in Mumbai with his family. His father Admiral R H Tahiliani, was with
the Indian Navy, thus his family including sister Tina Tahiliani were posted to multiple locations in India.

He studied at Campion School, Mumbai, then, when his father was posted to Delhi, then he went to study
at The Doon School, a boarding school in Dehradun.

After his schooling, he joined St. Stephen’s College in Delhi as an honours student.

He then studied at Vassar College, New York for one year, and went on to obtain a degree in Business
Management from the Wharton Business School, University of Pennsylvania.

While in the US, through a friend, he met Sailaja (Sal), an economics student at the University of
Pennsylvania. They married soon after his return to India in 1980. They have two sons.

Fashion brand
Tarun Tahiliani rose to fame in 1995 when Jemima Khan wore his outfit for her wedding with Pakistani
cricketer, Imran Khan.

Tahiliani is known as a versatile designer producing a number of lines including accessories, diffusion and
prêt-a-porter, but he is best known for his bridal couture lines. He has drawn in potential customers since
2009 with his annual bridal expos held in various cities of India in association with brands like the World
Gold Council and De Beers. Tarun’s designs are sold all around the globe today in high-end department
stores of Australia, US, Japan and the Middle East.

14
His work was shown internationally, during the major European fashion weeks.

He is also one of the founding member of India’s official fashion week governing body, Fashion Design
Council of India.‘

His very well-known collection, ‘Kumbhback’ was inspired by traditional Mahan Kumbh Mela. One could
see that the outfits very inspired by the unusual color palette of sunset tones like amber, subtle rust, saffron,
deep red with hues of aubergine, pink, blue and black.

ROHIT BAL:

Summary
Rohit Bal is one of India’s most successful and respected designers. He was born in 1961 and professionally
he has been trying to combine traditional patterns and craftsmanship with modern sensibilities. His designs
are especially popular with Indian society and celebrities.

Time Magazine named the designer “India’s Master of fabric and fantasy.”

He is famously known for his application of Lotus and Peacock motifs, and for the dramatic construction in
his clothing.

History
Rohit Bal began his career with his brother Rajiv Bal in New Delhi in 1986 the Company Orchid Oversea
Pvt.Ltd, and launched his own first independent collection in 1990.

Bal was also picked by the Khadi Gram Udyog, the biggest textile operation in Panchkula, to work with
them.

He won the ‘Designer of the Year’ award at the Indian Fashion Awards in 2006 and the ‘Designer of the
Year’ at the Kingfisher Fashion Achievement Awards in 2001.

Bal has designed for the game show Kaun Banega Crorepati.

Bal revealed a flagship store in Delhi, as well as stores in Mumbai, Bangalore, Ahmedabad, Kolkata and
Chennai. He also designs jewellery.

Fashion brand style

As the fashion designer has described, Rohit is intensely concerned with design as an art form. The designer
draws on history, fantasy and folklore to create masterpieces that are desired by discerning aficionados
around the globe. Rohit has a deep understanding of the psyche of the fashion world and it reflects in his
collections that are intelligent, studied, imaginative and completely innovative yet always relevant and
awe-inspiring.

RohitBal’s sense of aesthetic is finely honed. His work is handcrafted to perfection. He is recognized for
meticulous attention to detail.

Rohit draws from influences, wide and varied. From the village crafts and traditional methods of design that
India is so rich in, to the transient phenomenon of the sub continent’s urban landscape, the designer brings
them all to life in his spectacular yet original language.

Rohit’s versatility as a design talent is on display in many efforts that have come to life.

Career Milestones

15
Rohit has had dedicated spaces at the prestigious stores in India, the Middle East & Europe.

The designer has had his designs shown in major fashion capitals all over the world.

Likewise, Rohit has held fashion shows in London, Paris, New York, Singapore, Moscow, Jakarta,
Colombo, Sao Paulo, Munich, Geneva and all major cities in India. His collections have been met with an
incredible and enthusiastic response

A creative partnership with International shoe designer, Christian Louboutin A high-value collaboration with
the Conran Store and other lifestyle stores such as Crate and Barrel, Anthropology and the likes.

A partnership with Nebula-Titan watches where the watches were successfully designed by Rohit Bal which
were sold at all the Nebula Titan Stores

A partnership with Kirtilal Jewellers for an extremely high-end range of precious jewellery which was
launched in all the Kirtilal stores.

A partnership with cosmetic giant Lancôme for a bridal make- up range.

A partnership with Zippo lighters where for the first time a designer was asked to design lighters with the
designer’s branding on it”.

WENDELL RODRICKS

Born in Mumbai, Wendell Rodricks studied Fashion Designing in the USA and France from 1986 to 1988.
Wendell’s first collection from Goa earned him the title ‘Guru of Minimalism’ and his next collection in
1995 pioneered the concept of ‘resort wear’ and ‘eco-friendly’ garments at a time the words were not yet
coined in India.

A designer with an international presence Wendell has presented his unique garments, inspired by Goa and
India, at major fashion events. Rodricks has the honour of being the first Indian designer to be invited to
show at the World’s largest garment fair IGEDO in Germany (1995), Dubai Fashion Week (2001), Malaysia
Fashion Week (2002), the prestigious Paris Prêt-à-Porter Salon (2007) and the world’s biggest organic fair
BioFach in Nuremberg, Germany (2012). In 2007, the Confederation of Indian Industries invited the
designer to showcase two fashion shows in Bryant Park, New York to celebrate the 60th year of India’s
Independence. Rodricks has also presented at Festival of India (1993) in Beijing and Shanghai in China as
well as in Sri Lanka.

Wendell Rodricks was instrumental in planning the first-ever Lakmé Fashion Week in 2000 and guiding it in
an advisory capacity during its formative years. In 2000, 2003 and again in 2008 he was honoured as the
‘finale’ artist for Lakmé Fashion Week.

In 2010 Wendell revived the weaving of the traditional Goan Kunbi Sari, a two-year project involving
identifying and training weavers in the use of sari looms. This unique Kunbi Sari, and other garments using
the same weave, were showcased at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week. Sari lovers like Sonia Gandhi,
Sheila Dixit and Pratibha Patil have bestowed praise on the designer for reviving a dying craft.

In January 2012 Rodricks turned author with Moda Goa – History and Style published by Harper Collins.
This book got rave reviews for its portrayal of long-forgotten aspects of Goa’s cultural history and costume
history. In August 2012 Wendell’s memoir, The Green Room, was published by Rupa Raintree and launched
at Lakmé Fashion Week.

Wendell has written for magazines, coffee table books and anthologies.

In 2014, the designer was awarded India’s fourth-highest civilian honour, the Padma Shri by The President
of India, Pranab Mukherjee for Art (Fashion Design), honoured by the All India Konkani Parishad,
bestowed the Rainbow Warrior Award by Kashish Film Festival and conferred the distinction of Knight in

16
the Order of Arts and Letters (Chevalier de l’Ordre National des Arts et Lettres) by The Ministry of Culture
and Communication of France.

Wendell passed away in Goa on 12 February 2020, but his legacy lives on.

JJ VALAYA:
JJ Valaya was born on the 8th of October, 1967 and is one of the most popular fashion couturier and
designer from India. He is often called the ‘Monarch of Indian Fashion’ due to his distinctive fashion trends
that exude royalty, opulence and pre-independence charm which has been twisted with a touch of
contemporary sensibilities to make it unique.
JJ Valaya is the first global brand ambassador of Swarovski, a leader in the Crystal business, apart
from being a founding member of FDCI (Fashion Design Council of India).
Childhood and Career

JJ Vallaya has reached the pinnacle of success with his flawless designs which include the true
essence of India that can be seen in the exquisite hand embroidery, the rich fabrics and Indian heritage
motifs which have taken the country and the world by storm.

JJ Valaya was born in Jodhpur, Rajasthan and he has always been inclined towards fine arts since
then. Later, he graduated from the National Institute of Fashion Technology and became the first fashion
designer to conduct a solo show in India, which was the first feather in his cap. His innovative and unique
style won him many accolades and thereafter his personal fashion label ‘JJ Valaya’ was officially launched.

He is admired for his knack of mixing clothes and putting together two different things to produce
something entirely extravagant and surreal. This designer’s headquarters are located over a sprawling area of
40 thousand square feet in Delhi and he also has 250 craftsmen and embroiderers who work entirely for him.
The Style

JJ Valaya has a very distinctive style which sets him apart from his contemporaries. His unique
blending of traditional with modern and a seamless fusion of these two diverse styles is what has made him
acclaimed both nationally and internationally.

This trendsetter infuses his garments with exotic styles, vibrant and bold colors, classy silhouettes
and authentic embroidery which adds a ‘timeless’ quality to his clothes and makes them a work of art.

The House of Valaya, his very own fashion boutique, offers a wide range of luxury merchandise
ranging from furniture to shoes to cuisine which is the first of its kind in India.
Making a Style Statement
JJ Valaya has a style that is based on innovation in terms of elegance, quality, and classiness, which
is everlasting and permanent. He is firmly rooted to the past and therefore his inspirations are derived from
the royalty of Rajasthan, but he cleverly metamorphoses it with an element from this era to create something
never seen before.
He enjoys opulence, grandeur and a larger than life element in his couture and has successfully
showcased his collections at fashions shows in India and abroad- such as Hong Kong, Dubai, Singapore,
London, New York, Paris and Johannesburg.

Valaya’s collection always relates a story and at that time he expressed how the female courtesans
and musicians in the royal courts of India used to entice the princes with their craft.

In 2011, TASVEER which was Valaya’s Winter/Festive collection at the Lakme Fashion Week got a
lot of acclaims as he chose to combine fashion with photography by exhibited his journey through colors
starting with black and white.

In 2012, Valaya displayed his collection AZRAK (meaning ‘rare and common’) at the Wills India
Fashion Week. The collection again had a historical element as it was inspired by the Ottoman Empire of

17
Turkey which was juxtaposed with Indian and Western silhouettes and motifs. The showstopper was the
popular actress Kangana Ranaut. This collection gave birth to another signature style, the AZRAK jacket.

In 2012, JJ Valaya launched his Salwar Kameez collection at the Lawn 2012 Collection by Meena Bazar
with vibrant clothes and prints. He also initiated the popular ‘Diasun’ pattern that resembles two inverted Vs
and the sun motif.
The Trendsetter

The signature of JJ Valaya’s style is essentially the genius in his fusion of contemporary couture with
traditional crafts to create a novel handiwork that is beyond compare. He has essentially redefined Indian
crafts and given them a new purpose by incorporating them into the cosmopolitan niche market and helping
them survive the effects of globalization. JJ Valaya has always wowed his critics by producing
groundbreaking innovative styles that trace back to the pre-independence grandeur of Indian royalty. In spite
being a trendsetter, JJ Valaya firmly believes that there is no such thing like trends.

18
UNIT:3 FASHION PRODUCTS AND PROMOTION
Product development is the design and engineering required to make products serviceable, salable,
producible and profitable. New product development in textile industry have indeed widened our views of
the world. The ever-growing spectrum of textile products for medical and health end users has created
awareness of the implications of aging populations in various regions of the world.

The basic concept involved in PD may be of two types:

1. Creative: Creative design focuses on analysis and creativity.

2. Technical: Technical design which involves perfecting the style, fit and patterns and developing
detailed specifications and costs.

The product can either be one that is new in market or one that is new to your particular company or existing
product that has been improved.

Why Develop New Product?

1. To create stars and cash cows for the future

2. To replace declining product
3. To take advantage of new technology
4. To defeat rivals
5. To maintain/increase market share
6. To keep up with rivals
7. To maintain competitive advantage
8. To fill gap in the market

Product Development Concerns?

Management, Designers, Merchandisers are involved in the development of a line or collection of the
fashion manufacturer’s product.

Product Development Process:

Apparel product development involves three phases:

a. Pre-adoption
b. Line-adoption
c. Post-adoption

a.Pre-adoption
This phase involves:

Design Features

1. Design development through sketching, draping and CAD.

2. CAD system allows trial and error in developing concepts for approval without having to sew physical
samples.
3. Design process may be conducted simultaneously in different sequences to reduce time for the product
development.
4. Design may be original, draw on fabric, stored in computer or given by the consumer.

Piece Goods

19
 1. Fabric selection. Material testing for performance.
2. In the pre-adoption phase it is make sure that the fabric or other materials that we are going to use
would be available in large quantity for production.

Trims & Accessories

1. Accessories selection and testing if required.

2. The accessories and trims that are going to be used in the garment must be available.

b. Line-adoption
This phase involves:

1. Integration of line development and line presentation

2. Planning a Collection
3. Developing a Collection (Design Development)
● Developing a sample garment
● Preparation of sales samples

c. Post-adoption
Which designs will become styles in the line and how the styles relate to the line planning?

This phase involves:

1. Perfect Styling and Fit.

2. Because sometimes the fitness present in the sample cannot be achieved in the production process.
3. Engineering production patterns.
4. Assembly methods (to check the suitability in production).
5. Developing Styles.
6. Quality specifications.
7. Estimate detailed costs.
8. Estimate the operation cost.

PRODUCT MIX:
A product mix is the complete range of products offered by a business. It is also referred to as
product assortment, and consists of all the product categories or product lines presented to the customer.
The overall product mix for a firm is the complete range of products that they offer in the marketplace. It is
also sometimes referred to as their product assortment.
There are multiple decisions to make in regards to an overall product mix for a company. Product mix and
will determine how the

To fully understand the scope of the product mix, the following terms need to be clarified:

● product line breadth

● product line length
● product line depth

PRODUCT MIX EXAMPLE

These are slightly different terms that describe different aspects of the product mix and probably the best
way to explain them is with an example.

20
For this product mix example, let’s review a kid’s clothing manufacturer, as shown in the diagram.

As you can see, the company offers three product lines – namely shirts, pants and dresses. This is known as
the product line breadth.

Under each of these three product lines they offer a variety of related products. For instance, this company
manufactures 12 different styles of varieties of children shirts. This is known as the product line length.

Under each variety/style of shirt (and pants or dresses), there would be a number of variations of
the same product – in clothing, this would be mainly variations of color and size. When you go shopping for
clothes you might see a shirt you like, but you would prefer it in a different color and, of course, in your
size. This is known as product line depth.

The three elements together – number of the firm’s product lines, the length of each product line, and the
depth of each product offering – they collectively add up to the firm’s overall product mix (or product
assortment).

FASHION SHOW:

Fashion show is the event that communicates and represents a fashion story. It is an event put on by
a fashion designer to show his or her upcoming line of clothing during Fashion Week.

The fashion show was come into being with the appearance of retail of costumes in the middle of
the 19th century. Up to now, it has become an indispensable media, added with a lot of artistic elements
which strengthen its value of appreciation, in the fashion field. Fashion shows launch every season,
specifically the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter seasons. This is where the latest fashion trends are made.

21
 The two most influential fashion weeks are Paris Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week, which
are both semiannual events. Also the Milan, London and Berlin Fashion Weeks are of global expectancy. It
is one of the tools of fashion promotion.

Types of Fashion Show:

Fashion events can range in everything from size to style. What you will need for the event will always
depend of what type of an event you are trying to put forward. Being a form of art display and mixing in
with all the other art categories (exhibitions, galas etc.) fashion events can also be very easily combined to
create a more diverse and complex event overall. There are 6 main types of events in the fashion industry in
which most people either be a part of or view.

There are mainly 6 types of fashion show. These are shortly described in below:

1. A formal runway fashion show

2. A production fashion show
3. An informal fashion show
4. Designer fashion show
5. Charity fashion show
6. Sponsored fashion show

1. A formal runway show:

This form of fashion display is one that people will be most familiar with. It is the conventional way for
designers to show off their clothing and accessories in a wearable manner (on models). It is similar to a
parade in terms of its setup and practice. A runway show will last anywhere between thirty minutes and an
hour, where the live models walk or dance along a raised platform in a sequential manner, wearing the
apparel of the designer.

The runway show itself can be done according to any theme and done in any style– some are formal while
others are far more informal. But they will always feature these characteristics: a theme (merchandise and
scene development), a specified special location, staging and lighting, models, make-up and hair style,
production and music.

2. A production show:
This is the most expensive form of fashion shows, as the whole event is almost like a theatrical performance
where there is a whole production element behind the show. Fashion and the different fashion trends at the
time are displayed and bought to life using special entertainment, backdrops and scenery, lighting effects,
live or produced music, and even theatrical performances (acting or dancing). These events can also be done
to any specific preferences and can feature 5 models or 50, but once again the clothing is shown on the
actual body of a person, as a way to show onlookers how the fashion can work in everyday life.

3. An informal fashion show:

Once again garments are displayed on models but in a very relaxed and informal environment- perhaps in a
department store or as they mingle among guests at an event. There are no special lighting or sound
requirements and the sell-ability of the clothing is purely up to the model and how he or she looks in the
outfit. This form of display requires very little planning (as it is essentially just the model, hair and makeup
production and the clothing that needs to be presented) and can be slipped in with almost any other event.
Some say that this form of fashion revelation is actually quite subliminal as the spotlight is not being shown
on the fashion model or the clothing but it is still being advertised.

4. Designer fashion show:

Designers are choosing from each showing their seasonal collections. Each show will feature just one
designer, lasting approximately 30 minutes.

22
5. Charity fashion show:
Charity fashion show performers that are held for a charitable purpose, often directed at a specific and
immediate humanitarian crisis.

6. Sponsored fashion show:

The fashion show is organized by the sponsor of any company or organization is called sponsored fashion
show.

Important organizing tips of fashion shows are:

1. Date and venue
2. License
3. The catwalk
4. Model
5. Fashion runway
6. Themes
7. Hairdressers and makeup
8. The clothes
9. Rehearsal
10. Advertising
11. The team (For price and management)
▪ Producer

▪ Backstage manager
▪ Entertainment manager

SALES PROMOTION DEFINITION

Sales promotion is a marketing strategy where the product is promoted using short-term attractive initiatives
to stimulate its demand and increase its sales.
This strategy is usually brought to use in the following cases –
● To introduce new products,
● To sell out existing inventories,
● To attract more customers, and
● To lift sales temporarily.
American Marketing Association defines sales promotion as –
Media and nonmedia marketing pressure applied for a predetermined, limited period of time in order to
stimulate trial, increase consumer demand, or improve product availability.

Methods of Sales Promotion

Incentives used to stimulate purchasing such as coupons, product placements, and buyer programs are some
of the methods we use in sales promotion to promote our products and services and encourage purchasing.
Few more methods of sales promotion are as follows:

23
 1. Coupons: Coupons such as 50% off, save ₹100 on purchase of 500, buy one get one free are
frequently used to attract customers towards the products of your brand.
2. Premiums: These low-cost items were given to customers at a discount or for free to build loyalty and
fascinate customers. Logo pens, keychains and coffee mugs are typical examples of it.
3. Incentives: Incentives builds the customer’s excitement. Thus, marketers conduct contests, lucky
draws and provide rebates to their loyal customers to retain them with their product. This also attracts
the new customer group toward their product.
4. Product Samples: Providing samples of your new product with other famous products of your
company also increase the sales of your products.
5. Sponsorship: This is what in which a company pays a fee to put their name and logo on a physical
site.
6. Product Placement: We have seen in many realities shows a mug having a logo of a particular drink
name is kept in front of celebrities, that is a product placement method of sales promotion and this
method brings recognition for their brand.
7. Loyalty Programs: It is also known as buyer programs. In these programmes, companies award their
customers for the purchases.
8. Point- of- Purchase Displays: We see almost everywhere particular corner are made displaying the
products of a specific brand. They are usually placed in high traffic areas and encourages impulse
buying.

Sales Promotion Strategies

Sales promotion strategies can be divided into three broad types. These are –
● Pull Strategy – The pull strategy attempts to get the customers to ‘pull’ the products from the
company. It involves making use of marketing communication and initiatives like seasonal discounts,
financial schemes, etc.
● Push Strategy – The push strategy attempts to push the product away from the company to the
customers. It involves convincing the intermediary channels to push the product from the distribution
channels to the final consumers using promotional and personal selling efforts. This strategy involves
making use of tactics developed especially for resellers, merchants, dealers, distributors, and agents.
● Hybrid Strategy – A hybrid sales promotion strategy makes use of both the pull and push strategy
to sell the product with the least resistance possible. It involves attracting the customers using special
coupons and also providing incentives to the merchants to sell the brand’s products.

24
25
UNIT:4 FASHION RETAILING
Fashion Retailing - Scope and functions
Fashion retailing is the section of business that acts as an intermediary between the manufacturers
and customers. It can be defined as the process of “buying clothes from the manufacturer and selling them
to the customers”.
Fashion Retailing is the link or a bridge between the fashionable product manufacturer and the
consumer. Fashion Retailers may buy fashion merchandise from various manufactures (Vendors) directly
import merchandises from all over the country their own brands. Fashion retailers must constantly be aware
of customer’s desires.
They must notice changes in people’s living patterns and tastes. Retailers must show to put together
and accessories an outfit. They sell these merchandise consumers in their stores, by catalogue, or through
the internet or television. Real success in the Fashion Business in lastly achieved at the retail level by
consumer acceptance measured in purchase.

Types of Retail Stores

1. Department Stores
This type of retail outlet is one of the most complex types of establishments that offer a wide range of
products. It can be compared to a collection of smaller retail stores managed by one company. Department
stores are well-known for offering products at different pricing levels and for the variety of products that
they offer. Some of the common examples of department stores include Macy’s, Shoppers Stop, and Kohl’s.
2. Specialty Stores
Specialty stores are retail establishments that focus on one or two specific categories of products. They are
known for having a very narrow product line. A characteristic trait of customers of specialty stores is that
they are generally less price-driven. These outlets specialize in a given type of merchandise like men’s
clothing, children’s clothing, and sporting goods.
3. Supermarkets
Supermarkets are one of the most common types of retail outlets. They are large, departmentalized,
self-service stores that specialize in food and some non-food items. FMCG products are the main focus in
such stores when compared to consumer durables. The product assortment is given great importance in
supermarkets as the products need to be displayed in a manner such that customers get attracted to them, and
they sell faster.
4. Convenience Stores
Usually located in residential areas, convenience stores offer a limited range of products at premium prices
due to the added value of convenience. They are generally small establishments that have limited depth in
their product line. Such outlets are known for giving super-fast service with a focused approach.
5. Discount Stores
As the name clearly suggests, discount stores give considerable discounts on the products that they sell.
Discount stores compete on the basis of low prices, high turnover, and high volume. One of the best
examples of this type of retail format is Walmart whose tagline boasts of saving money.
6. Hypermarkets or Super Stores
Hypermarkets are one step ahead of supermarkets. These stores are huge in size and have many different
categories under their belt. These stores are generally not found in malls, rather they are the size of malls
themselves. Popular examples of this format of stores are Tesco, Asda, and Costco.
7. Warehouse Stores
A retail store that sells limited stock in bulk at discounted rates is called a warehouse store. Warehouse
stores do invest heavily in visual merchandising and rely on lower prices attracting customers instead.
8. E-Commerce Stores
Virtual stores that enable customers to shop from anywhere at any time are called e-commerce stores. The
order is placed through the store’s online portal, and products are delivered to the customer’s given address.

26
9. Dollar Stores
Dollar stores are a type of discount store. They offer products at meager rates. The only difference is that
their prices are fixed.
10. Drug Stores
Drug stores are specialized stores that sell medicines. The newer drug stores though often sell many other
things apart from pharmaceuticals, forming their own niche of specialized stores.

CHALLENGES FOR FASHION RETAIL IN INDIA

In the past few years, the fashion retail industry has seen significant changes. Today, fashion is more
than just clothes. In fact, it is an expression and extension of oneself. This transformation in the fashion
industry has led to driving purchases in the fashion industry. With increased product development, even an
average person owns more clothes than they used a few years back. People have categorized their wardrobe
into partywear, formals, casuals, beachwear, and sportswear.

Top Challenges in Fashion Retail

1.Creating Unique Experience

Fashion retailers are extensively working to gain customer’s attention and creating an exclusive
experience for the consumers. Only those brands who are successful in driving the engagement and
attracting the audience will receive superior brand loyalty. To create such a unique experience, retailers have
attracted customers by providing them tablets to research and buy their favorite products, implement click
and collect model, and provide in-store entertainment.

2. Right Product to Right Customer

Brands come up with a new collection based on the seasons. Mostly, they roll out new designs every
2-3 seasons a year. It’s quite a longer time-to-market. Therefore, it is quintessential for brands to follow the
right time, right place, right customer, and right price strategy.

3. Increased Interest in Online Shopping

One of the major challenges of the fashion retail industry is increased online shopping websites. The
e-commerce websites offer an easy return policy and a study depicts that nearly 92% of consumers will buy
again if the return policy is easy. These websites make online shopping more cheap, light, and risk-free
while selling clothes. The success of these e-commerce websites has led the retailers in physical stores to
apply the same strategy as the online stores. The growth of e-commerce has also created new behavioral
habits in consumers. In addition to it, they see online networks as a good substitute for a local shopping
center.

4. Sustainability

Concerns towards adverse environmental conditions are increasing and global brands are willing to
take a more sustainable approach to product development. One of these measures is the circular economy
model. Here the materials that would otherwise be headed to a local landfill are being reused to create new
products. To adapt to this model, companies need more visibility and control over the recycled materials.
Accordingly, for companies that have disconnected systems, siloed teams, inefficient processes, or the
inability to access the information, it can be a significant challenge. It is because a responsible mindset
requires tracking recycled materials throughout the Product Lifecycle Management process and tracking
relevant data.

5. Discounting & Competition

27
 To drive more sales, fashion retailers are more reliant on a discounting culture. This increase in the
discounting culture has led to an increase in sale banners across the shopping malls and streets. Also, there
are fashion retail outlets that are offering massive discounts on special occasions like Black Friday,
Christmas, and Cyber Monday. Therefore, it is quite challenging for those players who wish to manage a
healthy margin while their competitors are offering heavy discounts.

Conclusion

Above all, the global fashion industry has experienced many challenges from major to minor. The
industry works immensely to transform the fashion world with innovative solutions and sustainable
products. The industry should also quickly adapt to changing consumer behavior so that they can deliver the
right goods.
Despite the challenges in the fashion retail industry from creating and streamlining a unique
customer experience to price inflation and discounting issues, it is more interesting to be a part of this
industry. It is because the fashion industry is committed to transforming all the challenges into greater
opportunities.

E-RETAILING – GROWTH AND DEVELOPMENT

Electronic retailing or E-tailing, as it is generally being called now, is the direct sale of products,
information and services through virtual stores on the Web, usually designed around an electronic catalogue
format and auction sites. There are thousands of storefronts or e-commerce sites on the Internet that are
extensions of existing retailers or start-ups. E-tailing is synonymous with business-to-consumer (B2C)
transactions in online stores, where a customer can shop for apparel, cell phones, cameras, computers,
books, magazines, music CDs and DVDs, shoes, furniture, health equipment, flowers, etc—the list being
pretty long and exhaustive.

Electronic retailing has emerged as a new avenue for consumers to shop in. With the Internet
spreading across India at a fast rate, online selling is becoming attractive for e-retailers. Let’s take a look at
the factors that have led to the status of e-tailing in India, analyze the issues and challenges involved, and
also examine the future prospects.

GROWTH OF E-RETAILING:

Electronic Payment System: E- tailing encourages the buying and selling products, information
and services on the internet and other online environment. In this environment, payment take the form of
money exchange in an electronic form, and are therefore called Electronic Payment.

Enhanced communication with the client: E-tailing enables personalized interaction with
customers.

No rent or land costs: E-retailers do not require sophisticated showrooms in prime locations, and
operate through their websites or portals. This significantly saves the store maintenance costs, which are
pretty high for physical store retailers.

Effortless and joyful shopping: Online shopping saves time. Shopping in the comfort of your home
through the Internet is a huge attraction for customers.

Universal reach: A supermarket has a limited geographical area of operation. It caters only to a
limited number of customers of a particular locality, but a website can be access ed from any part of the
globe, which increases its market multifold. Such websites also serve as a good medium of advertising at a
minimum cost, and reach out to the world.

Any time accessibility: The online store is accessible 24×7 and delivers your products home. That
saves time and effort. Prices can be compared. Online shoppers can compare the prices of the products they
want to buy with competitive sites, and then go for the purchase.

28
 No duplication of products: Branded products are sold at competitive prices on credible online
portals. This reassures the consumer that no duplicated, low quality products will be sold on these sites.

PRICING POLICIES AND STRATEGIES FOR APPAREL PRODUCTS:

Today’s market is full of alternatives for customers and customers are more knowledgeable about the
options available in the market, pricing selections are becoming more crucial. As a result, they are better
positioned to look for decent value when they purchase goods and services. Value is the relationship
between what consumers receive (the deemed benefit of the goods and services provided by the retailer) and
what they must pay for it.

Retailers can boost value and encourage more trades by lowering prices or raising perceived
benefits. For some clients, a good bargain is just paying the least amount possible given the additional
advantages provided are unimportant to them, according to retailers. Others are willing to pay more for
additional perks if they feel they will receive value for their money in either service or product quality.
Retailers' sales and earnings will drop if their prices are higher than the benefits they offer. However, if
retailers set prices too low, they may see a rise in sales but a decline in earnings due to the smaller profit
margin.

FUNCTIONS AND FACTORS INFLUENCING PRICING:

Factors influencing Pricing
The factors influencing the price can be divided into two heads – Internal Factors and External Factors.

Internal Factors

Talking about the internal factors means the factors that work from within the organization. The factors are:

1. Organizational Factors:
Two management levels decide the pricing policy, one is the price range and the policies are decided
by the top-level managers while the distinct price is fixed by the lower-level staff.
2. Marketing Mix:
For implementing a price, the marketing mix needs to be in sync, without matching the marketing
mix, consumers will not be attracted to the price. The marketing mix should be decisive for the price
range fixed, meaning the marketing mix needs to maintain the standard of the price of the product.
3. Product Differentiation:

29
 In today’s market, it is uncommon to find a unique product, hence the differentiation lies in the
nature, feature and characteristic of the product. The added features like quality, size, colour,
packaging, and its utility all these factors force the customers to pay more price regarding other
products.
4. Cost of the Product:
Cost and Price are closely related. With the cost of the product, the firm decides its price. The firm
makes sure that the price does not fall below the cost lese they will run on losses. Cost of the price
includes the input cost that a company spends on raw materials, wages for labourers, advertisement
cost, promotion cost and salaries for the employees

External Factors

External factors are not under the control of the firm. These factors affect the whole industry group
uniformly. Yet, a company tries to estimate any upcoming problems in the external environment and also
makes up a backup plan in advance. This is done by forecasting the market trend.
The factors are:
1. Demand:
The market demand of a product has an impact on the price of the product, if the demand is inelastic
then a higher price can be fixed, if the demand is highly elastic then less price is to be fixed. When
the demand for the goods is more and the supply of the goods is constant, the price of the goods can
be increased and if the demand for the goods decreases the price of the goods should be decreased to
survive in the market.
2. Competition:
The prices are required to be competitive without any compromise on the quality of the product.
While in a monopolistic market, the prices are fixed irrespective of the competition. Thus, the
manufacturer tries to estimate the price of his competitor. When the price of the supplementary goods
is high, the customers will buy the manufacturer’s product.
3. Supplies:
If the supplies condition, the easy availing option of the raw materials are available, then the price of
the product can be moderate. Once, the raw materials supply price heightens then the price also rises.
In the period of recession, price is lowered so that easy purchase is guaranteed. While in boom
periods, prices shoot up high as now they can earn profit.

PRICING STRATEGIES FOR NEW PRODUCT:

30
1. Penetration pricing:
Using a cheaper price when first making the product or service available, firms utilise penetration
pricing as a marketing tactic to draw customers to new goods and services. A new product or service can
more easily enter the market and draw clients away from competitors. TJ Maxx uses a permanent
penetration strategy to grow its customer base and market share.
2. Skimming:
It is a pricing technique that raises the price of new products and then reduces it as rivals enter the
market. Skim pricing is the reverse of penetration pricing, which sets low initial rates for newly launched
products in an effort to attract a large consumer base. Nike employs price-skimming strategies because they
target clients who are aware of the brand and its quality and are prepared to pay a premium price for the
product.
3. Competition pricing:
A method known as competitive pricing involves setting a product's price in line with those of
competitors. A real-world illustration is the cost of well-liked goods on Amazon.com. To provide the best
deal on the market, the retail organizations gathers competition price intelligence.
4. Product line pricing:
It is a multi-tiered design approach used to market the products that a business creates. Product line
pricing is a tactic used by organisations to instil in the minds of the customers they are trying to reach an
impression of various product quality levels.
5. Psychological pricing:
The theory of this pricing is that consumers will perceive the slightly reduced price as being cheaper
than it truly is. An example of psychological pricing is an item that is priced Rs.499 but conveyed by the
consumer as four hundred rupees and not five hundred rupees, treating Rs.499 as a lower price than Rs.500.
6. COST-PLUS PRICING
Cost plus pricing is also known as markup pricing. It's a pricing method where a fixed percentage is
added on top of the cost it takes to produce one unit of a product (unit cost). The resulting number is the
selling price of the product.

This pricing method looks solely at the unit cost and ignores the prices set by competitors. For this
reason, it's not always the best fit for many businesses because it doesn't take external factors, like
competitors, into account.

7.COST BASED PRICING:

Cost-based pricing is a pricing strategy companies use to set the selling prices of goods and services.
This method allows companies to establish prices according to the cost of producing goods or providing
services.

31
 Cost-based pricing consists of different methods of calculating appropriate selling prices. Each
method focuses on the costs of producing an offering as the basis for determining the best price that will
result in 1) high customer satisfaction and 2) adds to a company's bottom line.
8.OPTIONAL PRICING:
Optional product pricing is when a business sets a base product at a lower cost and additional,
optional products at a higher price to make up for any losses. Optional products aren’t required for the base
product to work, but they usually enhance the customer experience.
As mentioned above, the two key components of optional product pricing are:
A base product: The main draw for the customer or why they’re making a purchase. It fulfills the
customers needs and doesn’t require the optional product to function. Base products are sometimes referred
to as loss leaders.
A complimentary product(s): A product that someone who purchased the base product may be likely
to buy to enhance their experience with the base product, like additional added features for software or
adding GPS or satellite radio when purchasing a car.

9.PREMIUM PRICING:
Companies use a premium pricing strategy when they want to charge higher prices than their
competitors for their products. The goal is to create the perception that the products must have a higher
value than competing products because the prices are higher. The company is betting that the consumer will
not investigate to find out if the product is truly a higher-quality item. Marketing managers want consumers
to believe that the brand name by itself is enough to assure them that the product is better than the
competition's product.
A premium pricing strategy has the advantages of producing higher profit margins, creating tougher
barriers to entry for competitors, and increasing the brand's value for all the company's products.

10.. Bundle pricing:

The practice of bundling complementary goods and services under one price (typically at a discount)
is known as bundle pricing. A good example of the use of bundle pricing is by Amazon. Amazon bundles
consist of single items sold together, usually at a discounted price compared to purchasing each item
individually.

METHODS OF PRICING:

Cost-based Pricing:
Cost-based pricing refers to a pricing method in which some percentage of desired profit margins is added to
the cost of the product to obtain the final price. In other words, cost-based pricing can be defined as a pricing
method in which a certain percentage of the total cost of production is added to the cost of the product to
determine its selling price. Cost-based pricing can be of two types, namely, cost-plus pricing and markup
pricing.

32
These two types of cost-based pricing are as follows:
i. Cost-plus Pricing:
Refers to the simplest method of determining the price of a product. In cost-plus pricing method, a
fixed percentage, also called mark-up percentage, of the total cost (as a profit) is added to the total cost to set
the price. For example, XYZ organization bears the total cost of Rs. 100 per unit for producing a product. It
adds Rs. 50 per unit to the price of product as’ profit. In such a case, the final price of a product of the
organization would be Rs. 150.

Cost-plus pricing is also known as average cost pricing. This is the most commonly used method in
manufacturing organizations.

ii.Markup Pricing:
Refers to a pricing method in which the fixed amount or the percentage of cost of the product is
added to product’s price to get the selling price of the product. Markup pricing is more common in retailing
in which a retailer sells the product to earn profit. For example, if a retailer has taken a product from the
wholesaler for Rs. 100, then he/she might add up a markup of Rs. 20 to gain profit.

Demand-based Pricing:
Demand-based pricing refers to a pricing method in which the price of a product is finalized according to its
demand. If the demand of a product is more, an organization prefers to set high prices for products to gain
profit; whereas, if the demand of a product is less, the low prices are charged to attract the customers.

The success of demand-based pricing depends on the ability of marketers to analyze the demand. This type
of pricing can be seen in the hospitality and travel industries. For instance, airlines during the period of low
demand charge less rates as compared to the period of high demand. Demand-based pricing helps the
organization to earn more profit if the customers accept the product at the price more than its cost.

Competition-based Pricing:
Competition-based pricing refers to a method in which an organization considers the prices of competitors’
products to set the prices of its own products. The organization may charge higher, lower, or equal prices as
compared to the prices of its competitors.

The aviation industry is the best example of competition-based pricing where airlines charge the same or
fewer prices for same routes as charged by their competitors. In addition, the introductory prices charged by
publishing organizations for textbooks are determined according to the competitors’ prices.

Other Pricing Methods:

In addition to the pricing methods, there are other methods that are discussed as follows:
i. Value Pricing:
Implies a method in which an organization tries to win loyal customers by charging low prices for their
high- quality products. The organization aims to become a low cost producer without sacrificing the quality.
It can deliver high- quality products at low prices by improving its research and development process. Value
pricing is also called value-optimized pricing.

ii. Target Return Pricing:

Helps in achieving the required rate of return on investment done for a product. In other words, the price of a
product is fixed on the basis of expected profit.

iii. Going Rate Pricing:

Implies a method in which an organization sets the price of a product according to the prevailing price trends
in the market. Thus, the pricing strategy adopted by the organization can be same or similar to other
organizations. However, in this type of pricing, the prices set by the market leaders are followed by all the
organizations in the industry.

iv. Transfer Pricing:

33
Involves selling of goods and services within the departments of the organization. It is done to manage the
profit and loss ratios of different departments within the organization. One department of an organization
can sell its products to other departments at low prices. Sometimes, transfer pricing is used to show higher
profits in the organization by showing fake sales of products within departments.

34
UNIT:5 SUSTAINABLE FASHION
SUSTAINABLE FASHION-MEANING

Sustainable fashion essentially refers to garments and accessories that are produced and/or
accessed in an ecologically and socially responsible manner.
The useless materials which arise from various human activities (such as domestic trash, garbage,
metal scrap, etc.) are solid waste materials. They directly affect the environment and cause land pollution as
well as water pollution.
Due to the increase in industrialization and urbanization, many waste materials coming from it are
being directly exposed in nature and are harming living plants and animals.
The reason that the word “accessed” is in this sustainable fashion definition is that the term should
not be limited to making or buying new things. While sustainability marketing campaigns have led us to
believe that we can buy our way to sustainability, it’s not that simple.
We can certainly choose to shop in a more sustainable way, but getting involved with sustainable
fashion does not require buying anything new.
Wearing what you have, shopping secondhand, and swapping/borrowing from friends are other ways
to engage in the sustainable fashion movement that doesn’t require the production or purchasing of anything
new.

LINEAR FASHION:

CIRCULAR FASHION:
Circular fashion is the practice of removing waste and' expiry timelines' from the design of fashion
items and allowing a longer life cycle through repurposing and recycling. Circular fashion tackles
sustainability from its very beginning, from the raw materials used for fiber production to the last phase of
the product's lifespan.
Anna Brismar claims to be the first person to use the term "circular fashion" in Sweden in 2014.
Head of the Green Strategy consulting firm, Brismar claims to have used the term almost simultaneously
with apparel giant H&M.
The term circular fashion stemmed from sustainability in the fashion industry. Sustainable fashion
does more than promote the reuse of existing textiles; it also calls for more eco-friendly production methods
and end-end circular models that reduce or eliminate the use of non-renewable resources entirely.

35
 ● In this circular model of production, distribution and usage, every garment is made keeping its next
use in mind.
● It’s designed for longevity, biodegradability and recyclability.
● It’s sourced and produced without using any techniques or materials that are toxic for the
environment.
● This way, in its entire lifecycle, the article doesn’t harm the environment at any stage. But, goes
without saying, the success of the model is dependent on the consumer’s actions.
● And for starters, it’s essential that we buy sustainable fabrics and reuse and recycle garments.
● Apart from that, we also ought to use, wash and repair them with care; and consider swapping,
renting and redesigning instead of buying more. Last but not the least, it’s always best to choose
quality over quantity.
● In an attempt to help reduce waste, the textile and fashion industry is rigorously working towards
adopting more sustainable practices to support Circular Fashion. While many fashion and lifestyle
brands are now using energy-efficient technologies to recycle clothes, leading designers are using
textile waste to create new collections. Manufacturers, too, are using textile waste as raw material to
make new fibers and fabrics.

Circular Fashion Principles

Make Fashion Circular has three key principles to create a more circular system:
1. Developing business models that KEEP CLOTHES IN USE. For example Resell, clothing swaps, store
take back schemes, garment repair and upcycling.
2. Using RENEWABLE AND SAFE MATERIALS. For example, using high quality renewable fibres that are
made in a safe and non toxic way.
3. Creating solutions that TURN USED CLOTHES INTO NEW CLOTHES. For example, upcycling waste
materials to new products through design, recycling waste textiles into new fibre through mechanical and
chemical recycling.

4 R’s IN SUSTAINABILITY:
In the modern world, we depend much on ready-made and
artificial products. There are many alternatives available for a
single item. It has increased the production of soil waste along
with the problems related to it. For managing such unwanted solid
wastes; the 4R principle is introduced.
4R Principle is the widely used principle in solid waste
management and depicts reduce, reuse, recycle & recover.

1. Importance of the 4R Principle

Some importances of the 4R principle are:
a. To utilize the waste materials.
b. To maintain environmental health.
c. To minimize land and water pollution.
d. To reduce consumption of needless items.
e. To promote the use of degradable products.
f. To utilize products to their maximum life.
4R Principle – Types
4R represents Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Recover. They are explained below:

a. Reduce:

Reduce includes all the activities which reduce the generating of solid waste into the environment.
We should always try to minimize the unnecessary use of artificial things or products in our daily
life.
We can reduce the solid waste in our community by considering the followings points:
1. We should choose durable items while buying.

36
2. We should change our habit of using things i.e. use washable clothes, napkins instead of napkins paper.
3. Use washable containers for lunches
4. Sacks instead of using non-reusable plastic bags.
5. We should buy recycled products.
6. It is better to use cotton bags for shopping.
7. Print on both sides of a paper so that we can reduce waste production.
8. Warning signs should be printed on products showing the disposal method.

b. Reuse:
The usage of any product itself without changing its form and composition is called Reuse.
It is the act of re-claiming the product by using it for different purposes.
Reuse increases the life of waste and reduces the production of waste so that it preserves the environment &
its resources.
Reusing products not only contributes to the protection of nature but also saves our money.
The initial cost of reusable products is high but is highly beneficial from a long-term view.
We can reuse solid waste by considering the following points:
1. Use reusable plastic bags or cotton bags for shopping.
2. We should donate our old clothes & other items to charitable organizations.
3. Use plastic gallons to store water & oil.
4. Use old (second-hand) books, DVDs & CDs, etc.
5. Buy a rechargeable battery.
6. Reuse electronics devices after repairing.

c. Recycle:
Recycle means re-covering a previously used object and giving it a second life.
The use of waste by processing & modifying it into another form is called recycling.
It is done when it is not possible to reuse and reduce.
Paper & cardboard, glass, metal, debris from construction & demolition, etc. can also be recycled and used
again.
i. Paper is recycled to cardboard, toilet paper, tissue paper, etc.
ii. The newspaper is recycled into egg cartons, shoe boxes, etc.

4. Recover:
Most of the materials thrown in the garbage can be used & processed in ways other than being destroyed.
Such a process is recovering.
eg:
a. methane gas can be recovered from decomposing organic matters.
b. If there is still plastic waste left over after being reduced, reused, and recycled. It can be used to make
energy. It is the process to convert waste products into resources (such as fuel, heat, etc.) through biological
means.

MOVING TOWARDS SUSTAINABLE FASHION:

ECO-FASHION:
Eco-fashion is much more than being environmentally conscious with the way to produce and
consume clothes. Eco-fashion regards all aspects of the production processes, supply chain, and
consumption, up to the end of life-cycle of clothing.

Eco refers to ecological, eco-friendly or environmentally friendly. Eco-fashion is also called

sustainable fashion. It focuses on bettering the social and environmental impact of fashion
with sustainable and ethical practices.

Eco-fashion involves materials made from renewable sources, sustainable management of resources
and waste, recycling, renewable energy, carbon-neutral shipping, transparency, and fair working
conditions.

37
 More specifically, eco-fashion encompasses:

● Clothes made using raw materials such as cotton grown without the use of pesticides or silk made
from worms raised on organic vegetation.
● Garments and clothing made from recycled textiles, including creative use of materials such as
recycled plastic.
● Articles designed to be more durable so they last longer.
● Clothes made without the use of certain harmful chemicals, dyes or bleaches.
● Accessories and clothing made under conditions where workers are treated fairly and paid a fair
wadge for their efforts. Eco-fashion incorporates some human rights elements, specifically how
workers who make the fashion items are treated.

SLOW FASHION:

The term “slow fashion” was coined in 2007 by Kate Fletcher in an article published in The
Ecologist, where she compared the eco / sustainable / ethical fashion industry to the slow food movement. It
developed as a natural reaction to fast fashion: where trends change every season, clothing and accessories
are affordable but low quality and end up in the trash in no time.

In fast fashion the cost of garments is so low, consumers are tempted into purchasing new clothes
with each new trend, meanwhile, their old, unwanted clothes are discarded.

The Slow Fashion Movement works towards creating an industry that benefits the planet and all
people. The movement advocates principles similar to the principles of slow food, such as good quality,
clean environment, and fairness for both consumers and producers.

SlowFashion is an awareness and approach to fashion, which considers the processes and resources
required to make clothing, particularly focusing on sustainability. It involves buying better-quality garments
that will last for longer and values fair treatment of people, animals and the planet.

Few basic features of Slow Fashion Brand

● Made from high quality, sustainable materials

● Often in smaller (local) stores rather than huge chain enterprises
● Locally sourced, produced and sold garments
● Few, specific styles per collection, which are released twice or maximum three times per year.
● Zero Waste

This approach has inspired many changes in recent years, particularly in the production of clothing, but also
in consumer behaviour. SlowFashion has seen increasing support in the last few years, with an awareness
from consumers demanding higher sustainability and ethical standards.

How to Practise Slow Fashion ?

● Begin by giving up the urge to impulse buy.

● Invest in well-made and lasting clothes.
● Shop local
● Buy timeless designs and evergreen styles vs seasonal trends
● Avoid fast fashion brands and particularly green washing brands (brands that say they are sustainable, but
you know they are not.)
● Think before you dispose, repair, donate, upcycle.

38
The term ‘fast fashion’ has become more prominent in conversations surrounding fashion, sustainability, and
environmental consciousness. The term refers to ‘cheaply produced and priced garments that copy the latest
catwalk styles and get pumped quickly through stores in order to maximise on current trends’.

The fast fashion model is so-called because it involves the rapid design, production, distribution, and
marketing of clothing, which means that retailers are able to pull large quantities of greater product variety
and allow consumers to get more fashion and product differentiation at a low price.

Fast Fashion and Its Environmental Impact

1. Water

The environmental impact of fast fashion comprises the depletion of non-renewable sources,
emission of greenhouse gases and the use of massive amounts of water and energy. The fashion industry is
the second largest consumer industry of water, requiring about 700 gallons to produce one cotton shirt and 2
000 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans. Business Insider also cautions that textile dyeing is the
world’s second-largest polluter of water, since the water leftover from the dyeing process is often dumped
into ditches, streams or rivers.

2. Microplastics

Furthermore, brands use synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon and acrylic which take hundreds of years to
biodegrade
According to the documentary released in 2015, The True Cost, the world consumes around 80 billion new
pieces of clothing every year, 400% more than the consumption twenty years ago. The average American
now generates 82 pounds of textile waste each year. The production of leather requires large amounts of
feed, land, water and fossil fuels to raise livestock, while the tanning process is among the most toxic in all
of the fashion supply chain because the chemicals used to tan leather- including mineral salts, formaldehyde,
coal-tar derivatives and various oils and dyes- is not biodegradable and contaminates water sources.

3. Energy

The production of making plastic fibres into textiles is an energy-intensive process that requires large
amounts of petroleum and releases volatile particulate matter and acids like hydrogen chloride. Additionally,
cotton, which is in a large amount of fast fashion products, is also not environmentally friendly to
manufacture. Pesticides deemed necessary for the growth of cotton presents health risks to farmers.
To counter this waste caused by fast fashion, more sustainable fabrics that can be used in clothing include
wild silk, organic cotton, linen, hemp and lyocell.

39