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Router Surfacing Jig

• Step by Step construction
instruction.
• A complete bill of materials.
• Exploded view and elevation
drawings.
• How-to photos with instructive
captions.

• Tips to help you complete the

project and become a better
woodworker.

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WOODWORKER'S JOURNAL
©2007 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

WJ094
Router Surfacing Jig
T
hickness planers are worth their weight in gold, but adding one to your shop doesn’t
come cheap. If your budget won’t allow for a planer just yet, we have a solution. Our
surfacing jig turns a router into a serviceable planer. The moveable sled will fit virtually any
make or model of fixed-base router, and a pair of holddowns keep workpieces firmly
planted while you work. This jig also doubles as a handy dado and groove cutter.

Most of us woodworkers follow a ness of the workpiece it can accommo-

pattern when setting up our home date, but it’s a generous 41⁄2", which is
shops. We start with a few hand tools adequate for almost any situation.
and a drill, and pretty soon we have all One of the clever features of this
the basics in place. Then we start the financial outlay involved, this article jig has nothing to do with surfacing:
dreaming of going to the next level— presents a solution: the surfacing jig. Its size allows you to cut multiple
dust collection, pneumatic tools, and While this project started out with dadoes across the grain of a work-
finally the ultimate shop machine—a surfacing in mind, you’ll find that there piece. This means that you can build
thickness planer. The problem is that are a number of important routing oper- bookshelves and other cabinetry with
our skill level often grows a little more ations that it can perform (see Figures little or no setup, and you can repeat
quickly than the number of tools we 1, 2 and 3). It will handle panels up to cuts to your heart’s content.
are able to afford. If you’re ready for a 19" wide, with no restrictions on length. If you’re intrigued by the possibili-
thickness planer but aren’t prepared for However, there is a limit to the thick- ties and would like to build our surfacing

40 SHOP PROJECTS
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 Jig Exploded View

13
8

11
12
19
12
13
15
14
10

6
7

4 5
2

MATERIAL LIST
TxWxL TxWxL
1 Base (1) 3/4" x 35" x 47" 12 Sled Braces (2) 3/4" x 23⁄4" x 257⁄8"
2 Hardwood Trim (1) 1/4" x 3/4" x 168" 13 Sled End Caps (2)* 3/4" x 23⁄4" x 13"
3 Laminate - Underside (1) 1/8" x 36" x 48" 14 Sled Glides (2)* 3/8" x 3/4" x 13" UHMW
4 Laminate - Top Center (1) 1/8" x 27 ⁄2" x 48"
1
15 Polycarbonate Sled (1)* 3/8" x 71⁄2" x 71⁄2"
5 Laminate - Top Sides (2) 1/8" x 3 ⁄2" x 48"
1
16 Router Housing Bolts (3)*
6 Base Runners (2) 3/4" x 5 ⁄8" x 47 ⁄2"
3 1
17 Sled Clamp Bolts (6) and Nuts (6) 1/8" x 1"
7 Stabilizers (10) 3/4" x 3" x 4" 18 Sled Clamp Lock Washers (6) 1/8"
8 Holddown Beams (2) 13⁄4" x 11⁄2" x 273⁄8" 19 Sled Clamps (2) Small Push Clamps
9 Holddown Glides (4) 3/8" x 1" x 11⁄2" UHMW 20 Spacer Strips (2) 3/4" x 51⁄2" x 471⁄2"
10 Holddown Clamps (6) Small Push Clamps *Designed for a 5 ⁄ " diameter router base: Adjust to fit your router’s base.
1
2

11 Sled Runners (2) 3/4" x 2 ⁄4" x 25 ⁄8"

3 7

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 Figure 1: The original motivation for this jig was
a means to surface uneven boards before final
sanding. It became evident that the jig would
also serve to plane material down to a desired
thickness, as shown at left.

Figure 2: Cutting clean-edged dadoes across

the grain of boards or plywood is easy. Just
place the workpiece on the base, drop in a
spacer, center the router on your cut, and the
holddowns will keep both board and router sled
in perfect alignment as you work.

Figure 3: Cutting grooves with the grain of the

workpiece is just as easy as making dadoes
across the grain. Use the holddowns to clamp
the spacers and sled in place, and lock the
router base in position on the sled. Then cut
the grooves by running your workpiece between
the spacers.

42 SHOP PROJECTS
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 Technical Drawings

jig, the first step is to cut all the parts to Runner Assembly
Top View
size according to the dimensions given
in the Material List on page 41. 33/4"

Milling the Base

133/4"
The base (piece 1) is a piece of
3
MDF—medium density fiberboard— 3 /4"

which is readily available at any lumber-

yard, and the first milling operation is to 133/4"
create two grooves in it for the hard- 233/4"
wood runners. If you do this on your
table saw, make sure that you keep the
same edge against the fence for both
233/4"
cuts: If you just flip it, the grooves won’t 333/4"
6
be absolutely parallel. Cutting them
with a router and a clamped-on fence
makes even more sense, and it’s a
1 6 333/4"
more comfortable way to handle this
433/4"
large panel.
7
Trim the base with 1/4"-thick strips
of hardwood (pieces 2), mitering the
1
corners. Install this trim with glue and 4d 433/4"
finish nails every 6", pre-drilling the hard- 7
3
wood so it doesn’t split. Set and fill the /8"

nail holes, then sand everything flush 1 6

/2"
before applying the plastic laminate.
1"
3
/8"
Working with Plastic Laminate 3
/8"
If you haven’t applied plastic lami- 1
/2"
6
End View
nate before, installing it is just a series 1"
of very logical steps. Following the 3 4"
3 8 /" 7
manufacturer’s instructions, apply a 8 /"

coat of contact cement to the under-

side of the MDF base and the laminate
1
/4" 4"
(piece 3), and let them dry to the touch. 1
3 2
8 // "" 7
The easiest way to apply contact adhe- 2
sives is with a disposable notched trow-
el—they’re very inexpensive and you 1
/4" 1
3
/4" 3"
/2"
can usually just discard them when the
project is completed. 2
When the cement is dry, place 3
/4" 3"
dowels or thin sticks about every 6"
along the surface to keep the two parts NOTE: The ends of the runners (pieces 6) are
notched to fit over the 1/4" trim
separate while you get the laminate
lined up. You’ll notice that the laminate
is a little oversized to allow for trimming.
Starting from the center, remove

ROUTER SURFACING JIG 43

WOODWORKER'S JOURNAL ©2007 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Figure 4: Use 3/4"-thick scrap blocks to line up the laminate with the Figure 5: Use your router table to machine the six parallel 3/8" x
edges of the two grooves. 3/8" grooves in the runners for the sled and holddowns.

the dowels and press the plastic down

onto the MDF. Keep working from the
QuickTip
center out, and when the whole sheet
is in place turn to a plastic or wooden
roller to ensure good adhesion. Or you Plugging Holes in Premium Wood
can use a baker’s rolling pin—it pro- To shave wood plugs absolutely flush, cut five pieces of paper to fit
vides a large area of contact and you in the opening in your router base. Stack the paper and adjust a
can really apply pressure with those flat bit’s height so it barely touches the top paper. Now run the
widely spaced handles. router across the
Trim the laminate with a flush-trim- plug. If the bit
ming bit installed in your portable router, still needs to
then use some 280-grit sandpaper to come down,
break the trimmed edges. Make sure remove a couple
you don’t scratch the laminate in the of papers and
process. Then turn the base over and repeat the adjust-
work on the top surface. ment until the
Begin by drilling 1/8"-diameter plug is barely
holes every 6" along the bottom of above the sur-
each groove. These are pilot holes face. Finish with
for the screws that hold the two a light sanding.
hardwood runners in place, and drilling
them now from the top side ensures
that they’re lined up properly when
you drive the screws in from the bottom
later on.

44 SHOP PROJECTS
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 Technical Drawings

Router Sled
Top View 14 Side View
14
3
/8"
13
3
13 13
/8" 13
3
/8"
11 3
3
/8" 11 11
11 /4" 3
/4" 11 11
3
/8" 12
3
3
/8" 12
/4"
3
/4" 273/8"
273/8"
3
/8"
3
/8"
NOTE: Don’t glue the
end caps (pieces 13) to
the brace, so you can
remove the router base
if necessary 15
15

13 12 12 12
13 12 12 12
Drill the housing
14 bolt holes to
14
3
/8" accommodate
3
3
/8" your router
/4"
3
/4"

3
/8"
3
/8"
13" 23/4"
13" 23/4"

With that done, you can apply Making the Hardwood Runners the runners in place and then turn the
the laminate to the top surface in the These two runners (pieces 6) entire base upside down (you’ll need a
same way as the underside, with one provide a stable parallel track for the helper), to install 11⁄4" sheetrock screws
exception: The top laminate is installed router when making long cuts. To lay in the pilot holes you drilled earlier to
as three separate sheets (pieces 4 and 5) out the six grooves, refer to the secure the runners. Countersink the
to fit the areas between the two top Technical Drawings on page 49. screw heads and pre-drill the hardwood
grooves. Use small blocks of 3/4"-thick Transfer this pattern to the end of your runners before driving the screws
scrap (see Figure 4) to line up the edges workpieces, then mill them on your home. Don’t glue them in as you may
of the laminate with the edges of the router table, taking several passes have to replace them if they ever start
two grooves. When everything is in place, (see Figure 5). wearing out.
use your dowels, roller and flush-trim bit Notch the ends of the runners to fit
to complete the installation. Trim off any over the 1/4" trim you already installed Reinforcing the Runners
overhanging laminate with a router and on the base—hold the piece on edge To keep the runners perpendicular
piloted flush-trim bit. against your table saw’s miter gauge to the base, make and install the ten
and nibble the waste away. Clamp hardwood stabilizers (pieces 7). The

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 Technical Drawings

3
/8" 11
/16"
8
3
/8"
5
/8"
9
Locate the UHMW white plastic glides according
to the dimensions in the elevation above.

Hold-down Beam

pattern for these is included in the to size, form grooves across each end absolutely flush.
Drawings. Cut the stabilizers on your (see the Elevation Drawings for dimen- The sled end caps (pieces 13)
bandsaw, then clamp them in a bench sions) to hold the UHMW plastic glides are also grooved (see Figure 6) for the
vise to belt-sand them to final size. (pieces 9). You can cut these grooves sled glides (pieces 14). Epoxy these
Mark their locations (see Technical on your table saw with a tenoning jig, glides in place just like you did the ones
Drawings) on the base, then screw or use a high auxiliary fence and your on the holddowns, then trim them to
them in place from the bottom with 15⁄8" miter gauge to nibble away the waste. size when dry.
sheetrock screws, countersinking and Epoxy the two glides in place and when Make the polycarbonate router
pre-drilling as you go. To secure them they’re dry, belt-sand the plastic flush. base (piece 15) next, cutting it to size
to the runners, use 11⁄4"-long screws. Then use your table saw’s miter gauge and then drilling for the bolts (pieces 16)
Drill countersinks in the bottoms of the to trim the glides for a nice snug fit in that attach it to the router housing. Use
runners’ grooves with a 3/8" Forstner the runners’ grooves. bolts, nuts and washers (pieces 17 and
bit, just deep enough to ensure that the Screw the push clamps (pieces 10) 18) to secure the two push clamps
screw heads are below the surface. in place next—see the Technical (pieces 19) that lock the router base in
Then use a 1/8" bit to pre-drill the run- Drawings for locations—and then set position on the sled. Screw the end
ners, and continue with a 5/64" bit to the holddowns aside and work on caps to the sled runners, countersinking
extend the pilot hole into the stabilizers. making the router sled. and pre-drilling for the 2"-long screws.
Drive the screws home, then move on Don’t glue the end caps in place—you
to the holddowns. Building the Router Sled may have to replace the router base at
You’ve already cut all the parts for some future time.
Assembling the Holddowns the sled to size, so now you can go to If you use a fixed-base router with
A stable workpiece is essential your router table and mill a 3/8"-wide this jig, we recommend purchasing a
for quality work, not to mention safety. groove down the inside of each of the second router base housing and leaving
The holddown system on this jig sled runners (pieces 11) at the locations it permanently attached to the jig. It will
works wonderfully for long boards and given in the Drawings. Then turn each make using the jig much more conven-
plywood panels. piece over and cut a 3/4"-wide groove ient. Depending on your router model,
Make the two beams for the hold- on the outside face. Glue and screw a you may have to remove the two knobs
downs (pieces 8) from solid hardwood brace (piece 12) into each of the wider on the base housing so the sled won’t
with straight grain. With the beams cut grooves, making sure that the ends are get too wide.

46 SHOP PROJECTS
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Finishing and Using the Jig
Danish oil is a good finish for shop jigs, and wax is the
best lubricant for the sled and base runner slots. To use the
jig, clamp it to your workbench and drop in a spacer (piece
20) as needed to line up the workpiece with the router bit.
See page 42 for more details on general set-up and use.
For surfacing operations, make the cuts in a series of light,
skimming passes to keep from overloading the router and bit.
Use a wide, carbide-tipped straight bit for this work. Since
the router is captured in the jig, feed direction doesn’t really
Figure 6: The router sled rides on plastic glides made from UHMW,
matter. When you’re done, hang the jig on your shop wall, a self-lubricating material.
using the holddowns to secure the sled in place.

QuickTip

These plywood
templates work
great for setting
both miter gauge
and blade angles

Gauges for Setting Up Saw Angles

Rather than look for a protractor or T-bevel, or trust the arrow indicators on your miter and bevel
gauges, make a set of setup gauges for quick and reliable reference. 1/4" plywood works fine for
this purpose. Keep them close to your table saw and miter saw for setting up angles as well as
cutting pentagons, hexagons, octagons and even segmented bowls.

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 Technical Drawings

Base Assembly
(Top view)
2 1/4" trim

33/4" 1
/2"

133/4" 3
/8
4
3
5 5 /8"

NOTE: The laminate on the

underside of the jig is applied 3
/8"
6 as one piece. However, the top- 6
side laminate is installed as 233/4"
three pieces. Blocks of scrap
wood are dropped into the two
grooves to align the plastic
properly.
3
/4"

333/4"
7 7

433/4"

3
/4"

31/4"*

If you cut these grooves on the table *Make the groove 3" in from edge
saw, make sure you keep the same edge of the MDF, then apply 1/4"
against the fence for both cuts in order hardwood trim to protect the
to ensure the grooves are parallel. laminated edge.

48 SHOP PROJECTS
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 Base Runner Stabilizer
(End view) (Side view)
1" 1" 3
/ 8" 3
/ 8"
3
3 /4" 1
/2" 1
/2" 3
/8" 3
/8"
Save time by cutting11 two 11
3 3
stabilizers at once on / 4"
the band saw (after
making your blanks
3 123 12
/8"
on the table saw). / 8"
3
" 13 /4" 3
/ 8" 3
/8" 7 7
3
/4" 3
/4"

53/8" 53/8" 4" 4"

3 3
5 /8" /8" 3
/8" 3
/8"
1" 3
/ 8"
Countersink and
1
/2" pre-drill to secure 3
/8"
the base runner to 11 3
3
/8" 3
/8" the stabilizer. / 4"
1" 3
/8"
233/4" 233/4" 3
/ 8"
12
1
3
/8" /2" 6 6 3
3
/ 8"
7 /4" 11 3
3" 3" 13 /4" 13
53/8" 4"
3
/8" The stabilizers
3 are screwed to the base 12
3
/4" 3
/4" /8" with 15⁄8" sheetrock
from the bottom
3
/8"
3 14 14
/8" 7
3
screws, countersunk and pre-drilled.
/ 4" 3 3
3 3
/8" / 8"
/4"53/8" /4" 3 3
3 3 4" /4" /4"
/8" 3
/8" 3
/ 8"
33 /4" 333/4"
Sled Runner & Brace Sled End Cap & Guides
7 (End view) (End view) 3 3
/8" /8"
6
1" 3
/8"
3
/8" 3" 13
3
/ 8"
" 3/4" 11
4 3
/ 4" 9
9 6 9 14
8 8
3
3 12 / 8" 13
3
/4" / 8" 3" 3
1
6 /2" /4" 6 /2"
3 1 /4"
73 3
43 /4" 3
/4" 43 /4" 1311/16" 1311/16" 14
" 207/8" 20
3
7
/ 8"
3
3
/8" /8" 3
/8"
/4" 3
/4"
3
33 /4"
3
9 3
/8"
/4"
Suggested clamp
8 locations
Holddown Beam (3 screws per clamp).
31/4"* 1
6 /2"
(Side view)

1311/16" 13 9
3"
9
207/8" 8

14
61/2" NOTE: Use the holddown
433/4" 3
/ 8" 1311/16" clamps in combination
3
/4" 207/8" with various width spacers
(pieces 20) to achieve
unlimited holddown
3 options.
/ 8"

9
8 ROUTER SURFACING JIG 49
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