Moriculture
Cultivation of mulberry plants is known as moriculture.
Morus alba
Morus indica
Grown through out India
Morus latifolia
Morus nigra
Morus laevigata
Morus serrata Grown in Himalayan region
Most of the Indian varieties belong to Morus
Indica
Popular mulberry cultivars in India
Mysore local
Kanva-2
V-1
S-36
S-1635
S-30
S-34
S-13
Mulberry Propagation
Mulberry is propagated either through-
seeds or vegetative
Sexual or Seedling Method of Propagation
This is the naturally occurring method of propagation
wherein seeds form the propagating agents. Cross-
pollination is the rule in mulberry because most mulberry
plants are either unisexual or when bisexual, have mostly
unisexual flowers. Hence a large amount of variations
occurs in the crop raised from the seeds.
The genetic variability of seedling raised plantation is an
advantage for selecting good varieties for breeding purposes
but a disadvantage for mass scale silkworm rearing where
uniform growth is assured only by feeding leaves of a
consistent quality obtained from a single genetic variety.
Another disadvantage of the seed method of propagation
for a commercial plantation is that a very long time is
needed for its establishment in spite of the fact that the
actual propagation is done very quickly.
Asexual propagation
Methods of asexual propagation are:
1. Stem Cutting
2. Grafting
3. Layering
Stem Cuttings:
It is most popular and easiest method of propagation
because it maintains the particular character of a plant and
gives rise to large no. of saplings in shorter duration.
In tropical and sub-tropical regions, this is the most common
method of mulberry propagation. However the rooting ability of
cuttings depends upon the mulberry variety, time of planting,
texture of soil and climatic conditions.
In this method mature shoots, with minimum three active
buds are cut from 5 to 8 months old plants of desired variety
with a sharp knife without any split.
Cutting method of propagation
Grafting
Grafting is the technique of joining the parts of two
different varieties of plant in such a way that they unite and
grow as one plant.
Grafting is the most commonly used method of vegetative
propagation in temperate areas, particularly in the colder
regions where cuttings do not develop roots easily.
The part of graft combination which develops into the
shoot system of new plant is called scion and is chosen from
a variety with desirable characteristics. The other part which
becomes the root portion of the future plant is called stock
and is chosen from a variety adapted to the local soil
conditions.
Type of Grafting:
Root Grafting Shoot Grafting Bud grafting
1. Veneer grafting 1. Whip grafting 1. Patch budding
2. Slope grafting 2. Crown grafting 2. T-budding
3. Bag grafting 3. Wedge grafting 3. Flute budding
4. Inverted bag grafting 4. One bud-one
5. Octopus grafting root grafting
Veneer grafting: On rootstock: shallow, downward and
inward cut ensuring V-shape incision in
lower portion of incision on rootstock is
prepared.
Scion: A terminal shoot of 10-15 cm length
having pencil thickness is used as a scion.
Similar matching cut in slanting manner is
prepared on lower portion of the scion.
Procedure:
1. Both rootstock and scion are fastened
Veneer grafting together using 300 gauge polythene tape
of 0.5 cm width.
2. In about 3-4 weeks, union is completed.
3. When the scion sprouts completely, the
upper portion of rootstocks above graft
union is removed in 2-3 installments.
Slope grafting: The scion consists of a portion of
shoot with two or more buds. The
lower edge of the shoot is given
an oblique cut taking care not to
peel of the bark. The stock is cut
obliquely at the transition zone.
The scion and stock are simply
positioned against one another so
that the cut surfaces match
exactly. The graft is tied and
sealed with grafting wax. This
method is not popular because
scion and stock should have the
Slope grafting
same diameter and the same
histology for union to occur
Bag grafting:
The scion consists of shoots from
the desired variety of 8 – 10 cm
length with 2 to 3 buds. The lower
side of the shoot is cut at an
inclined angle to the length of 2 cm
on the opposite side of last bud.
The stock is pressed on the sides to
separate the bark from the xylem
without splitting the bark so as to
form a pocket-like split. The scion is
inserted in to this split until it is
firmly fixed, such that cut region of
the scion faces the cambium of the
stock and the two cambiums come
in contact and the bark of the stock
Bark (Bag) grafting is not broken.
This type of grafting is suitable when the scion is thin and the
stock is thick.
Inverted bag grafting About 5-6 cm long stocks are prepared
from one year old fresh seedlings of
moderate size since they should be
thinner than the scion used. Scions are
10 -15 cm long with two to three buds.
On the side opposite the lowest bud,
the scion is cut obliquely at an angle of
450 so that the cut end looks like horse’s
ear. The upper portion of the scion is
cut horizontally just above the first bud.
The bark on the black surface is scraped
to a shallow depth. Using the thumb
and index fingers the bark is separated
from the hard wood on the lower
portion of the scion, making it like a
pocket. The stock is inserted into the
pocket. The grafts are first buried in
sand to hasten healing of the grafted
Inverted bag grafting portion and later transplanted to the
nursery.
This method is used when the scion is thick and the stock is
thin.
Octopus grafting:
This is similar to inverted bark
grafting except that here more
than one stock in inserted into
the scion.
Octopus grafting
Shoot Grafting
When the scion portion is inserted into the stem portion it called
shoot grafting. It is an example of field grafting used to rejuvenate
an old tree. The method of preparation of stock and scion depend
on the age of the stock and type of grafting adopted. Scions are
prepared from one year old shoots of proper maturity with well-
developed buds.
Whip grafting
Crown Grafting
Wedge grafting
Bud Grafting
The process of connecting the scion, which is a bud, and
rootstock in a manner such that they my unite and grow
successfully as one plant is termed as budding.
Patch Budding: Suitable for propagating the plants having
comparatively thick bark. Procedure:
1. Square or rectangular shape
bud.
2. Similar size incision is made on
rootstock.
3. The bud is Placed on rootstock.
4. Polythene tape is wrapped on
the bud leaving the sprouting
portion exposed.
5. Wrapping prevents the
desiccation of the bud and thus
favours sprouting.
T-budding: A ‘T’ shaped incision is made on the bark of the
stock at the nodal region into which scion bud is inserted.
Flute budding: In this method the bark of the stock is
removed to a length of 2.5-3.5 cm around the plant. The
bud of the scion of the same length as the bark is placed in
this region and bandaged.
One bud-one root grafting
One bud-one root grafting: This method is very popular in
Japan. A single bud is inserted into one rootstock still attached
in the soil.
Layering
In this method of propagation the development of roots is
induced from stem while it is still attached to the mother plant.
Such a rooted stem is known as layer. The layer is detached
from the mother plant and is grown as new plant.
There are 3 types
1. Simple layering
2. Trench layering
3. Air layering:
Simple layering: In simple layering, a ring of bark is removed
(2.5 to 5 cm in length) from the shoots of the low cut trained
mulberry plants and the branch is bent in such a way that the
portion without bark gets buried in soil but the tip of the shoot
remains out of the soil. Roots develop from the buried portion
of the stem which is later cut from the mother plant to live
independently.
Trench layering method
Trench layering: This method is popular in Japan. In trench layering
a branch of a low cut trained plant with buds is bent horizontally. A
considerable length of the middle of the branch is covered with
mud and manure. New shoots develops from bud and roots
develop below the soil. Thus a number of plants can be grown
from the same branch.
Air layering
Air layering: About 1 to 2 cm of circular bark is removed from
the middle of an erect branch. Peat moss or well decomposed
organic manure with a little root hormone is placed in this
region, securely tied with a polythene cover and sprinkled with
water. Roots develop in 1 to 2 months and the branch is served
from the parent and planted to develop into a new plant.
Preparation of nursery bed:
Selecting of nursery site:
The nursery site should be flat and elevated. Low lying and
submersible areas must be avoided.
Sandy loam to clay loam with light textured, good
drainage with PH range of 6.5-7.5 and soil depth of 3’ is
considered ideal for establishing nursery.
The nursery site should also be free from nematode and
termite infestation.
The site should have adequate irrigation facility, as irrigation
is the most important component in the nursery activity.
Land Preparation:
The land must be ploughed or dug 30-40 cm deep and
allowed for weathering in sun for 2-3 weeks. Land is again
ploughed to bring the soil to fine tilth.
Root stock, pebbles and weeds are removed at the time of
ploughing and the land is leveled.
The land is divided into a number of small beds to prepare
nursery. The size of each bed is decided keeping working
convenience in mind.
A bed size of 300cm (L) X 100cm (B) accommodates 180
cuttings (row to row distance is 20 cm and cutting to cutting
distance in a row is 10 cm) to raise 4 months old saplings.
Each bed on all sides is separated by a bund of 25 to 30 cm
width and height and provided with irrigation channel of 25 to 30
cm width and 15 to 20 cm depth.
The following measures are taken before planting cuttings
in the nursery bed.
The pH is adjusted in alkaline soil by the addition of gypsum
and acidic soil by addition of lime.
A basal dose of organic manure is added and mixed with
soil by ploughing.
In case of red loamy or sandy loam soils, there is a possibility
of termite infestation as a preventive measure, 0.1%
Chloropyriphos (5ml per liter of water) can be sprayed to
drench the soil of nursery beds (2-3 liters per bed).
selection of cuttings
It is most popular and easiest method of propagation
because it maintains the particular character of a plant and
gives rise to large no. of saplings in shorter duration. In
tropical and sub-tropical regions, this is the most common
method of mulberry propagation.
Shoots of proper maturity (6-8 months old shoots) and
thickness (10-15 mm in diameter) with healthy, well-
developed vegetative buds selected from the parental
plants.
The middle portion of uniform thickness is used for
preparation of 15-18 cm long cuttings with 3-4 buds.
30
cm
30 cm
Cutting method of propagation
Planting of cutting in the nursery beds:
Nursery beds should be adequately watered and made wet one
or two days earlier to planting. Mark each row at a distance of 20
to 30 cm as required with the help of a thread. In each row by
using a pointed stick, make small holes at 8 or 10 cm distance to
insert cuttings.
To avoid fungal attack cuttings must be dipped in 0.2% Bavistin
solution for 10 to 15 minutes before planting. Cuttings must be
planted in holes in a slightly slanting position, bud pointing up,
and exposing only one bud above the surface of the soil.
In case of poor rooting varieties 200 ppm aqueous solution of
NAA/IBA dissolved in small quantity of 90% ethyl alcohol can be
used to treat the cuttings before planting.
Nursery management
1.Irrigation: First irrigation must be provided immediately after
planting. Subsequently irrigation is given once in 4 to 5 days in
case of sandy loamy soil and red soil and once in 6 to 7 days in
case of black cotton or clayey soil.
2.Weeding: Nursery beds must be kept free from weeds. At
least two rounds of manual weeding are required, first after 25
to 30 days and second after 55 to 60 days of planting.
3.Fertilizer application: Chemical fertilizer must be applied in
the nursery when saplings have attain 20 to 25 cm height in
about 55 to 60 days after planting preferably after second
round of weeding. Following this, 500 g ammonium sulphate or
250 gram of urea can be applied per bed, followed by
irrigation.
Uprooting, transporting and planting of saplings
Three to four months old saplings (rooted cuttings) are ready for
transplantation to establish of plantation.
