Frankie’s Knitted Stuff

Yellow Lace

Don’t let the word ‘lace’ put you off; this pattern uses DK weight yarn
and size 4 mm / US size 6 needles and is based on garter stitch with
half the rows being plain knit. It’s light but still warm, perfect for
those in between days that we get a lot of here in England.
The finished scarf measures about 23 cm wide and 150 cm long -
that’s 9" x 59" - and you’ll need about 130g of yarn. I used Stylecraft
Special DK (295 m / 100g) for my scarf in Dandelion which is a
lovely subtle yellow and one of my favourite shades.
The Start
To make the scarf more interesting, I decided to give it pointed ends.
This does mean that you start with the most complicated part of the
pattern but bear with me, it’s not as hard to knit as it is to write out.
Using the long tail method, cast on two stitches.
Row 1: kf&b, K1 (3 sts).
Row 2: (and every even numbered row) Knit.
Row 3: (kf&b) twice, K1 (5 sts).

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Row 5: kf&b, K2, kf&b, K1 (7 sts).
Row 7: kf&b, K4, kf&b, K1 (9 sts).
Row 9: kf&b, K6, kf&b, K1 (11 sts).
Row 10: Knit.
That’s established the four stitch garter stitch border for the scarf.
Now it’s time to start working the lace while still increasing at each
side.
A note on my abbreviations
The eyelets are made by inserting holes on either side of a double
decrease. I have abbreviated this as ‘yf, S2KP2, yf’.
For the ‘yf’s (yarn forward) bring the yarn to the front of the work as
if you were going to purl the next stitch. As the stitch pattern is all
based on garter stitch, you’ll take the yarn back over the needle to
work the next stitch which will create an eyelet.
The double decrease S2KP2 is worked by slipping two stitches
together knitwise, knitting the next stitch and then passing the two
slipped stitches over it. This gives a nice centred decrease.
Row 11: kf&b, K3, yf, S2KP2, yf, K2, kf&b, K1 (13 sts).
Row 12: (and all even numbered rows) Knit.
Row 13: kf&b, K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (15 sts).
Row 15: kf&b, K5, yf, S2KP2, yf, K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (17 sts).
Row 17: kf&b, (K3, yf, S2KP2, yf) twice,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (19 sts).
Row 19: kf&b, K7, yf, S2KP2, yf,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (21 sts).
Row 21: kf&b, K5, yf, S2KP2, yf, K3, yf, S2KP2, yf,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (23 sts).
Row 23: kf&b, (K3, yf, S2KP2, yf) x 3,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (25 sts).
Row 25: kf&b, K7, (yf, S2KP2, yf, K3) twice,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (27 sts).
Row 27: kf&b, K5, (yf, S2KP2, yf, K3) x 3,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (29 sts).

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Row 29: kf&b, (K3, yf, S2KP2, yf) x 4,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (31 sts).
Row 31: kf&b, K7, (yf, S2KP2, yf, K3) x 3,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (33 sts).
Row 33: kf&b, K5, (yf, S2KP2, yf, K3) x 4,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (35 sts).
I know it looks complicated but it’s really quite straightforward.
You’re gradually working more repeats of the six stitch lace pattern
while increasing at the start and end of the rows. And of course, every
other row is plain knit.
Row 35: kf&b, (K3, yf, S2KP2, yf) x 5,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (37 sts).
Row 37: kf&b, K7, (yf, S2KP2, yf, K3) x 4,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (39 sts).
Row 39: kf&b, K5, (yf, S2KP2, yf, K3) x 5,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (41 sts).
One more set of rows …
Row 41: kf&b, (K3, yf, S2KP2, yf) x 6,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (43 sts).
Row 43: kf&b, K7, (yf, S2KP2, yf, K3) x 5,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (45 sts).
Row 45: kf&b, K5, (yf, S2KP2, yf, K3) x 6,
K to last 2 sts, kf&b, K1 (47 sts).
Row 46: Knit.
That’s all the increasing done. Should you want a narrower scarf, the
pattern will work with any multiple of 6 - 1 stitches. From now on the
pattern is simpler to write down and easier to learn. At this point, I
started slipping the first stitch of every row knitwise as I like the do
with garter stitch. Whether or not you do that is up to you.
Row 1: K4, *yf, S2KP2, yf, K3, repeat from * to last st, K1.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: K7, *yf, S2KP2, yf, K3, repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4.
Row 4: Knit.

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Just repeat these four rows for the main part of the scarf. One side of
the knitting will have vertical ridges between the eyelets while the
other will be flatter. You may or may not be able to see this in the
photos below. I had great trouble photographing this scarf; I think the
details may be clearer when viewed on a screen rather than printed.

Ridged Side Flatter Side

Carry on until your scarf is nearly long enough, ending after working
a Row 4.
I stopped when my scarf was about 125 cm / 49" long. The pointed
end of the scarf will add about 25 cm or 10" to the length and will use
roughly 10g of yarn.
The End
If you’ve been slipping the first stitch of every row, you should stop
doing that now.
Row 1: K4, *yf, S2KP2, yf, K3,
repeat from * to last 7 sts, yf, S2KP2, yf, K2, K2tog.
Rows 2, 4 & 6: K to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Row 3: K6, *yf, S2KP2, yf, K3,
repeat from * to last 3 sts, K1, K2tog.
Row 5: K8, *yf, S2KP2, yf, K3,
repeat from * to last 5 sts, K3, K2tog.
Work five repeats of this six row pattern amd then Rows 1 - 4 once
more. This should leave you with 13 stitches. Now it’s just garter
stitch until the end.

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I find that decreasing to a point in garter stitch comes up looser than
increasing from a point so I switched to 3.25 mm / US size 3 needles
for the last few rows.
Every row: K to the last 2 sts, K2tog.
When you have three stitches left, cast off with the double decrease
cast off: slip one stitch knitwise, knit two stitches together and pass
the slipped stitch over.
I would recommend blocking your finished scarf as it opens up the
eyelets well. My scarf was 126 cm long unblocked so it gained
another 24 cm or 9" from the blocking.

Abbreviations
st / sts stitch / sts
K knit
kf&b knit into the front and back of the stitch
yf yarn forward, as if to purl
S2KP2 slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit 1, then pass the slipped stitches over
K2tog knit two stitches together

© Frankie Brown, © 2025.