CHAPTER-2:ANCIENT WORLD

Fabric & Cloth Production

• Although the earliest civilization used animal skins to protect themselves from the environment , people soon learned how
to pound wool and goat hair into felt or weave it into cloth.
• Looms for weaving fabric were in use as early as 3000 BC. The skill of early weavers is extraordinary.
• Wool was the most common fabric used to make clothing in Mesopotamia and was used for practically every type of
garment from cloaks to shoes.
• Some fragments of linen discovered in royal tombs are almost as finely woven as modern-day linen fabric.
• Linen was a more luxurious fabric and was woven for the clothing of the wealthy, priests, and to adorn statues of gods.
Other finely woven fabrics also became available for the wealthiest in Mesopotamia. Soft cotton was introduced
in Assyria around 700 BC., and silk became available later.
• The surviving evidence does not show the colors of clothing made in Mesopotamia, but archeologists, scientists who study
past civilizations, have discovered letters that describe how dyes, appliqués, embroidery, and beads were used to beautify
garments.
• Artifacts found in royal tombs provide evidence of fitted sewn garments, gold appliqués, and elaborately decorated clothes.

KAUNAKES Garment (3500-2500 B. C.)

• One of the earliest forms of clothing. Made from goat or sheep's wool and meant to be worn around the waist like a skirt, it
is recognizable by its fringe detailing.
• It was woven in a tufted pattern suggesting overlapping petals or feathers, either by sewing tufts onto garment.
• The origin of the dress is traced to the Sumenar civilization.
• It was marked by high culture.
• The dress was unisex garment which both men and women wore. The skirt was made from
sheepskin.
• Servants and soldiers wore the shortest garments, while persons of high status wore longer
with the skirt often extending down to the ankles.
• The upper part of the body was either covered with another sheepskin cloak spread across
the shoulders, or left bare.
• This type of dress is featured in sculptures and mosaics of this period.

Hair & Headdress

• Sumerian and Mesopotamian people both men and women pulled their long hair into
a bun which was held in place at the back of the head by a headband or fillet, it was
known as Chignon.
• Alternatively, they put their hair falling straights the shoulders and held in place by
fillet.
• Again, men were both clean shaven and bearded sometimes with bald heads. It was a
way of comfort in hot, humid climate.
• Babylonian used chignon with filet for their hair decoration
• Assyrian men were bearded. Their hair and Chignon with Fillet beard arranged in
small curls which was achieved with the help of curling iron.
• Assyrian king’s beard was longer than that of other man. Lower class men had
shorter beards and hair. Chignon—a style of hair that is pulled
up into a tight bun at the back of the
head and held in place by a headband
or a fillet.
 CHAPTER-3: EGYPTIAN CIVILIZATION
Textile Production of Egyptian Costume
• Linen was the fiber most used by Egyptians.
• Linen was difficult to dye to colours and so mordant are used to fix the colours but mostly linen
was fade in colour.
• Mordant was unfamiliar until new kingdom period , so most Egyptian clothing was in the natural,
creamy white colour of linen or bleached to a pure white.
• Wool was considered ritually unclean and was not worn by priests, visitors or for burial but
sometimes wool was used for some outer garments.
• Silk was widely used in Egypt in 1000 BC but was not widely used until 4th century.
• Cotton cloth was used after Egyptian power had declined.
• Spinning and weaving techniques were well developed as early as the old kingdom.
• During and old middle kingdoms, Egyptians used a horizontal ground loom to weave fabric.
• Egyptian weaves used decorative selvages, fringes and tassels to ornament their clothing.
• Pleated linen was found in Egyptian art and garment.
• Artifacts showed that Egyptian were skilled in beading, pattern weaving, embroidery , applique
 Costume components of Egyptian civilization for women
• Skirt • Wrapped dress or sheath dress • Tunic • V neck dress • Shawl or cloaks

Wrapped dress or sheath or kalasiris

• The moat distinctive and important garment worn by women off all classes throughout the
history of ancient Egypt was the kalasiris, a long dress.
• It was a close fitting tube shape of fabric beginning above or below the breast and ends at
the ankle.
• There were one or two straps to hold it over the shoulder.
• Sometimes it was so fitted that it was difficult to wear.
• The typical kalairis was white but women often dyed their kalaririses in bright colours.
• Sometimes many techniques or elaborate patterns were used to decorate sheath dress.
• These were painted design, appliques, leather, feathers, bead works, woven design.
• Wealthy women wore kalasirises of finely woven fabric, some so thin that the dresses
became transparent. When the weather grew cool they might through a shawl over the top
of their dress.
• Poorer women likely wore a kalasiries made from heavier, coarser fabric and its cut was
likely not as close.
Tunic
• Women wore loosely fitted tunic
• These garments were worn by lower class women.

Skirt & Cape

• Women wore skirt with cape

• An ornamented collar was worn over the cape.

Pleated , Draped & Wrapped long Garment Skirt & Cape Pleated , Draped & Wrapped long Garment

• The draping and arrangement of garment of women was different than that of men.
• It was the most complex form of dress for women.
• They used different styles of draping method.

V Neck Dress
• These garments were made with or without sleeves
• The simple sleeveless version might be pleated or plain.

BEAD Net Dress

• One of the high-class fashions was the bead-net dress.
4,500 Year Old Egyptian Bead Dress
• Women decorated the sheath dress with beads.
• Bead-net dresses were made with thousands of beads arranged in various patterns.
• Although it is believed that women wore such dresses in daily life, most examples have been found in burials.

Hair
• Men were cleanly shaven
• Beard was symbol of maturity and authority for adult male ruler and young king.
• Women also shave their heads.
WIGS
• They wore wigs over the shaved head.
• The shape , length and arrangement of wigs varied from period to period.
• Most wigs were made of wool, flax which were cheap but human hair wigs were
most expensive.
• Most wigs were black in colour but they might be white, blue, brown.
• Women wigs were longer in length than man.
• These wigs might curl, braided or twisted.

Hair & Wigs

 Cosmetics of Egyptian Men & Women
• Both men and women decorated their eyes, skin and lips
• Red ochre pigment with fat or gum resin was used to colour lips
• Henna, a raddish hair dye was used to colour nails
• Egyptian used perfumed oils that softened the skin and prevented burning in the sun and damage from the sandy winds
• In the old kingdom , green eye paint was predominated
• In the middle kingdom , black and green paints and eye shadow were used.
• In the new kingdom ,black kohl had replaced green
• Eye paint had cosmetic , symbolic and medical functions.
• Eye painting represented the eye of the god Horus considered powerful charm and line formed around the eye helped to protect
against the ray of the sun.
 CHAPTER-4: GREEK CIVILIZATION
Types of Chitons Worn by Greek Men & Women
• CHITONISKOS • DORIC PEPLOS • IONIC CHITON • DORIC CHITON • HELLENISTIC CHITON • EXOMIS

CHITONISKOS
• The most common garment for Greek hoplites is the chitoniskos, which is essentially a shorter version of the
longer chiton generally worn by men.
• Usually short, between hip and thigh
• Close to body
• Usually patterned wool
• Archaic period to 550 BC.

DORIC PEPLOS
• A PEPLOS is a body-length garment established as typical attire for women in ancient Greece by c. 500
BC, during the late Archaic and Classical period.
• Loose-fitting and held up with pins at the shoulder, its top edge was folded over to create a flap and it was
often worn belted.
• A garment constructed from a long, rectangular section of linen or wool, later of cotton or silk.
IONIC CHITON
• The Ionic chiton was an intricately draped garment with many folds and pleats. It was worn by both men
and women.
• Ionic Chiton is a chiton variation made of two layer of fabric. Here safety pins are used to attach the fabric
layers at short distance and both sides are joined together. A cord was used to tie around waist.
• Length: For men – Short or long. For women – Long to ground.
• Fit : Full longer sleeve, fastened with small brooches at shoulder.
• Fabric: Light-weight wool or pleated linen.
• Duration: For men -- 550 BC to 480 BC.
• For women – 480 BC to 300 BC.

DORIC CHITON
• The Doric chiton is a single rectangle of woolen or linen fabric.
• It can be worn plain or with an over-fold.
• It can be draped and fastened at the shoulder by pins (fibula) or sewing, or by
buttons.
• A belt could be worn over the chiton, usually under the breast or around the
waist.
• t is narrower than Ionic Chiton without sleeve,
• Length: For men – Short.
• For women – Long.
• Fabric: Silk, wool or linen.
• Worn by: Men & Women.
• Duration: For men -- 400 BC to 100 BC.
• For women – 450 BC to 300 BC.

HELLENISTIC CHITON
• Length: Long.
• Fit : Similar to Doric chiton but narrower.
• It is belted typically under the breast.
• Fabric: Light-weight silk, wool or linen.
• Worn by: Women.
• Duration : 300 BC to 100 BC

EXOMIS
• The exomis was a Greek tunic used by workers. The tunic largely replaced the
older chitoniskos during the later 5th century BC.
• It was made of two rectangles of linen which were stitched together from the
sides to form a cylinder, leaving enough space at the top for the arms.
• An opening at the top was also left for the head.
• The cylinder was gathered up at the waist with a cloth belt which made the
cloth fall down over the belt.
• To allow freedom of movement to the arm, a pin was fastened over one shoulder
• Length: Short.
• Fabric: Durable fabric , probably Wool.
• Worn by: Working class men and slaves.
• Duration : Throughout all Greek periods.

Jewelry for Greek Men & Women

• Greece and surrounding areas, these territories produced constant stream of simple stone, clay and bone decoration items.
• After the arrival of Bronze Age, Greeks began creating more and more complicated designs eventually producing jewelry that
reflected the wealth and power of nobility and rulers.
• Gold became primary decorative raw material, although silver, lead, bronze and various alloys were also used.
• Jewelry in ancient Greece was viewed as a symbol of power, social status, ward against evil, celebration of the gods and was most
often used by female members of wealthy class.
• Bracelets were often worn in pairs or in matched sets. Pieces were usually inlaid with pearls and dazzling gems or semiprecious
stones
JEWELRY FOR WOMEN
• Necklaces. The gold earrings, dated circa 330-300 B.C
• Earrings. The gold strap necklace, dated circa 300 B.C
• Rings. The rock-crystal hoops of the bracelets (ca. 330-300 B.C.) have
• Brooches. been carefully cut, carved, and polished to produce a twisted
appearance
• Decorative pins for fastening chitons.
 The gold earrings, dated
circa 330-300 B.C
The gold strap necklace,
dated circa 300 B.C
The rock-crystal hoops of
the bracelets (ca. 330-
300 B.C.) have been
carefully cut, carved, and
polished to produce a
twisted appearance

CHAPTER-5: ROMAN CIVILIZATION

Fabric & Cloth Production
• Wool was the most commonly used fiber in Roman clothing
• Roman clothes were made of wool, spun into cloth by the women of the family. Later on, the richer people had slaves to do this work for
them.
• They also used linen, cotton or silk which was brought to Rome from other parts of the Europe.
• The sheep of Tarentum were renowned for the quality of their wool, although the Romans never ceased trying to optimize the quality of
wool through cross-breeding.
• For most garments, white wool was preferred as it could then be further bleached or dyed. Again, heavy and rough wool were suitable for
winter.
• Flax was the second most important fiber.
• Silk was imported in significant quantities as early as the 3rd century BC. It was bought in its raw state by Roman traders then woven and
dyed.
 • Used clothes were cut into patches and made into cloaks for slaves

The Appearance & Significance of

Various Types of Togas
The color of the toga was significant and marked the differences in age and status:

1. Toga virilis or toga pura

2. Toga Candida
3. Toga praetexta
4. Toga pulla
5. Toga picta
6. Toga trabea

Toga virilis or toga pura:

Appearance: Plain white. It was made with un-dyed wool.
Significance: It was worn after the age of 16 by ordinary male Roman citizen. It represented adult male citizenship and it’s attendant rights,
freedoms and responsibilities.

Toga candida:
Appearance: Exceptionally white in color. Also known as bright toga and is lighter than toga pura.
Significance: If a Roman became a candidate for office, he made his toga pura whiter than normal by rubbing it with chalk. It was worn by
candidates for office. The word candidate is derived from the word ‘candida’.
Toga praetexta:
Appearance: It was white with a purple border about 2 to 3 inches wide.
Significance: It was worn until the age of 16 for young boys and until 12 for young girls. It was also worn by adult magistrates and priests.

Toga Pulla:
Appearance: It was made with dark-colored wool and is also known as Dark Toga.
Significance: It was worn during periods of mourning.

Toga Picta:
Appearance: It was a purple toga embroidered with gold threads. It was dyed with a solid purple color or ‘royal purple’.
Significance: It was worn by a victorious general in their victory and later adopted by emperors for occasions. During the Empire, it was worn
by consuls and emperors.

Toga Trabea:
Appearance: It was a white toga with multicolored striped or purple stripes or saffron.
Significance: It was worn by religious specialists and consuls. It was also worn by important officials at important ceremonies. Sometimes the
property-owning of Roman citizen wore a toga trabea with a narrow purple stripe.
 ROMAN COSTUME FOR SPEACIAL EVENTS
The Synthesis :

• The synthesis was a garment worn by men at dinner parties.

• It was a light-weighted garment.
• It was bright and colorful
• It had two parts- tunic and shoulder garment.
• Men wore the synthesis instead of Toga as it was very heavy.

Bridal Costume:

• Roman bridal costume for women introduced certain elements that had traditional association till
present day. Example : Veil
• Bridal costumes consists of:
• A tunic woven in traditional way
• Tunic tied around the waist with a belt of wool
• Saffron colored Palla
• Metal collar
• Matching shoes
• Bride’s hair was arranged with artificial hair, separated by narrow bands.
• A veil of bright orange named Flammeum was placed over head.
• Over the veil, a wreath made of myrtle and orange blossoms were placed.
 Difference Between GREEK & ROMAN Costume
GREEK COSTUME ROMAN COSTUME

Greek costumes were based on rectangle forms Roman costumes were based on round or elliptical forms

Greek costumes were based on draping method Roman costumes were based on cutting and sewing method

Greek costumes had lighter draperies Roman costumes had heavier draperies

Greek costumes used less ornamentation Roman costumes used more ornamentation

CHAPTER-6: EARLY MIDDLE AGES

Textile Production & Technology
• Fine textile were woven by the Byzantines.
• From 4th to 5th century, the use of linen and wool was predominated.
• The production of silk was first done by China followed by Korea and Japan. But in the 6th century, a pair
of monk brought the secret of sericulture to the Byzantine Emperor and they also learned how to breed,
raise and feed silk warm. They also brought a number of silk warm in a hollow bamboo pole.
• Later the Byzantines produced silk for all the Western world.
• The Byzantines also produced brocade fabric and the design used in the fabric was originated from Persian
motif.
• Garments were adorned with precious and semi precious stones, embroideries and appliqué.
• The Byzantines liked color and pattern, and made and exported very richly patterned cloth
 Costume Components for Men

• Tunic • Hose • Pallium or Lorum

• Tunic after • Cloaks

TUNIC
• The basic garment was tunic
• It could be short, ending below the knee or long reaching to the ground.
• In 6th century, tunics ended below the knee. In later centuries, Emperors and
important officials wore full length tunics.
• Long tunics were cut with sleeves fitted to the wrist.
• Tunics of working men had fastened with a belt to move freely.
• Some tunics were decorated with clavi (stripes) and segmentae (square or round
decoration ) that were placed in different areas of the tunic.
• Tunics were decorated with vertical and horizontal bands elaborately patterned
with embroidery appliqué, precious stonesor woven designs.

AFTER TUNIC
• Tunics became more closely fitted to the body.
• Under tunics had fitted sleeves and outer tunic which had wide sleeves were shorter than under tunics.
• Fabrics were overall patterned and decoration were placed at hems and sleeves.
• It had wide decorative yokes at neck.
HOSE
• Hose are a style of men’s clothing for the legs and lower body, worn from the Middle Ages through
the 17th century.
• Hoses were worn with short tunics.
• Horizontal bands of geometric patterns were also seen.

CLOAKS
• Upper class men and Emperor wore the Paludamentum which fastened over the right shoulder with a
brooch.

PALLIUM OR LORUM

• Pallium is a long narrow heavily jeweled scarf possibly evolved from Roman Toga with folded band.
• It was highly decorated and often had religious symbols on it.
• It became the part of the officials of Emperor.
• Initially it was draped at the center front, around the shoulders and over one arm.

Costume Components for Women

• Tunic
• Tunic after
• Pala
• Cloaks
TUNIC
• The tunic and palla of the Romans continued during the Early Byzantine period.
• The wide long sleeved tunic known as dalmatic which was decorated with clavi and segmantae.
• The palla was replaced initially by a simple veil over head then turned into modified form that warped around the body
and covered the upper part of the skirt, the bodice and shoulder.
• By the 7th century, women wore doubled layered tunics. The under tunic had long, fitted sleeves and outer tunics had
full open sleeve cut short to display the sleeve of under tunic.
• The tunic for women was made from elaborately patterned fabric which decorated with jewels.
• They also wore belts and collars.

TUNIC AFTER
• More ornamentation were found in this costume.
• Variation of sleeves was found. Example-hanging sleeve and sleeves with a cuff.
• Occasionally, it was found as a knee length dress.

CLOAKS
• Upper class men and Empress wore the Paludamentum which
fastened over the right shoulder with a brooch.
• After the 11th century, the Paludamentum replaced by semi circular
cloaks.
 CHAPTER-7: LATE MIDDLE AGES
Costume Components for Men of the 14th & 15th Century
• Undergarment • Jacket (15th century) • Belts
• Pourpoint or doublet or gipon Surcote • Outer garments • Hose
• Cote – hardie • Houce • Stockings
• Houppelande • Huke

UNDERGARMENT
• The inermost layer of clothing were the braies, a loose undergarment, usually made of linen which
was held up by a belt.
• Next came the shirt which was also generally made of linen.

HOSE
• Hose were made of wool and were generally brightly colored.
• These were worn to cover the legs.
• Two types of hoses used
• Footed hose with leather soles
• Hose without soles
Pourpoint or Doublet or Gipon
• A doublet is a man’s jacket that is shaped and fitted to the man’s body.
• It was worn in western Europe from the Late Middle Ages up to the mid 17th
• century.
• Originally, it was a close-fitting military garment.
• It was hip or waist length and worn over the shirt.
• It was opened to the waistline in a deep V.
• Until the end of the 15th century, the doublet was usually worn under a gown, overtunic and jerkin.

Cote-Hardie
• Cote-hardie was always a sleeved garment look like coat.
• At first, it was worn by lower class people, but it became more elegant, or fur trimmed, or fur lined garment.
• Until the first half of 1300, it was fitted at waist and flaring to a knee length full skirt and button was attached.
• In the second half of the 14th century, buttons extended from neck to hem, length become shorter usually to hip
length.
• The edges of skirts and hanging sleeves were often worn with dagging ( a form of decoration in which edges of
the garment were cut into pointed on square shape) .
Houppelande
• It was originally invented in French then came to England.
• It’s an outer garment with a long, full body and flaring sleeves and originated as a housecoat that was pourpoint.
• Both men and women in Europe it in the Late Middle Ages.
• It was made of velvet, satin, brocade, etc.
• Sometimes the houppelande was lined with fur.
• For the first half of the 15th century, it became an important garment for men. After the mid century, it was called gown
or robe in England.
• From 1410 to 1440, equal fullness was added at front, back and at each side by adding pleats at front, back and sides.

JACKET
• During the early part of the 15th century, cote hardie was replaced by shorter houppelande and by jacket.
• In the 15th century, it was upto hip length.
• It’s shoulder was built over pads to produce a broad full sleeve cap.
• It had round neck or shallow V shape neckline at front, back and had a deep V shape at waist.
• Various types of sleeve styles were found.
• Full sleeve gathered at small wrist bands.
• Tube shaped with wide turned back cuff.
• Hanging sleeves
Surcote
• When it was worn over the pourpoint, it became more close the body.
• It was short in length.
• Worn as either sleeveless or with sleeves.

Houce
• It was a wide skirt overcoat with winged cape like sleeves.
• It had tongue shaped lapels at the neck.

Huke
• It closed over the shoulders and was open at the sides.
• It was worn without belt or belted with the belt on the front and the back free

Costume Components for Women of the 14th & 15th Century

• Chemise
• Gown
• Surcote
• Houppelande
• Cote – hardie

Chemise or smock or shift

• The undermost garment for women was called smock or shift or chemise.
Gown
• The English called it ‘gown’ and the French ‘cote’ or ‘cotte’.
• The upper part was fit to the body and had a flared skirt below and had tight fitting long sleeve.
• The skirt was so long that it had to be lifted while walking.
• Two gowns were worn. A gown plus a side less sur-cote.
• The gown was soft, gathered and had fullness.
• The bodice developed a fitted waist and V shaped were turned back and lined with fur or contrast color fabric.
• Sleeves might be close fitting to the wrist or wide funnel shaped.

Cote – hardie
• Women’s cote – hardie was a tightly long gown with a low
waistline and had fitted sleeves.
• The sleeves would end at the elbow have a sort of tail coming
off of them, called a lappet (if the tail was made out of the extra
fabric).
Houppelande
• Houppelande was an outer garment which
• was long and belted slightly above the
• waistline and had flaring sleeves.
• Collar variations included:
• High standing collar
• Flat and turned into round or V shaped neckline.
• Sleeve variations included:
• Funnel shape sleeve
• Bagpipe sleeve
• Hanging sleeve

THE END