KUMIKO WALL SHELF: A Simple Shelf with a Big Presence

O CTO B E R 20 22 | # 26 7

FIVE

SPECIALTY
CHISELS
Turn to page 22 to reveal what they are.
OCTOBER 2022 | VOL. 42, NO. 5 POPULARWOODWORKING.COM

Build
30 Exact Width
Dado Jigs
Two simple jigs to get perfectly
sized dadoes and grooves even
for undersized plywood.
BY WILLIE SANDRY

38 Kumiko Wall Shelf

This wall shelf is an elegant,
simple way to showcase a special
piece of woodworking—an
Asa-no-ha (hemp leaf pattern)
Kumiko panel.
BY LOGAN WITTMER

46 Carved Rim Bowl

A little bit of carving and
gilding on the rim of this bowl
transforms it from a nice piece
into an extraordinary one.
BY JIMMY CLEWES

38

30 46

2 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
OCTOBER 2022 | VOL. 42, NO. 5 POPULARWOODWORKING.COM

Connect
07 Workshop Tips
Tips from our readers on
saving a little money, sanding,
clamping, and more.

10 New Tools
See what’s new in rotary tools,
sanders, storage, and more.
BY PW EDITORS

Craft
14 In the Shop
07 10 A well-equipped shop will
have a variety of clamps for
different situations. Check
out our favorites.
BY PW EDITORS

22 Tools 101
These five specialty chisels will
be the perfect complement to
your bench chisels.
BY LOGAN WITTMER

56 Defects in Wood
Don’t let cracks and knots get
you down. There are plenty of
ways to turn defects in wood
into functional and interesting
features of a piece.
14 22 BY ROB PETRIE

64 Meet the Masters

Master craftsman David J. Marks
blends flawless design with
perfect execution.
BY LOGAN WITTMER

Number 267, October 2022, Popular Woodworking (USPS

#752-250) (ISSN 0884-8823) Canadian Agreement No.
40025316 is published 6 times a year, February, April,
June, August, October, and December (which may include
an occasional special, combined, or expanded issue that may
count as two issues, by the Home Group of Active Interest
Media HoldCo, Inc. The known office of publication is located
at 2143 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, IA 50312. Periodicals
postage paid at Des Moines, IA, and additional mailing
offices. POSTMASTER. Send address changes to Popular
Woodworking, P.O. Box 37274, Boone, IA 50037-0274.
PRIVACY STATEMENT: Active Interest Media HoldCo, Inc.
56 64 is committed to protecting your privacy. For a full copy of
our privacy statement, go to aimmedia.com/privacy-policy.

4 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
See Origin LIVE
Scan or Visit:
shapertools.com/sessions

PRECISION CUTTING
SIMPLIFIED
Shaper Origin is an easy-to-use handheld CNC router that brings
digital precision to the craft of woodworking. Find out why
woodworkers around the world like Roland Johnson rely on
/ 7   ³   Q
 Q   N

shapertools.com
 Oct. 2022, Vol. 42, No. 5
FROM THE EDITOR EDITOR IN CHIEF ■ Logan Wittmer
SENIOR DESIGNER ■ Danielle Lowery
Woodworking DIGITAL EDITOR ■ Collin Knoff

Influences PROJECTS EDITOR ■ Dillon Baker

TECHNOLOGY EDITOR ■ Chris Fitch
By Logan Wittmer COVER PHOTOGRAPHER ■ Chris
Hennessey
A few months back, a question came SET STYLIST ■ Becky Kralicek
through on our podcast (by the way, we CONTRIBUTORS ■ Jimmy Clewes,
Rob Petrie & Willie Sandry
do a weekly podcast—“The ShopNotes
Podcast”) about woodworking influ-
ences. It was a timely subject, as I was
just getting ready to take a trip to Santa
Rosa, California, to visit David J. Marks Over this summer, I’ve had the
DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION ■
and shoot an upcoming magazine fortune of traveling to various shops, Phil Graham
feature with him. like David’s, and shoot photographs ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR ■

Many people got their feet wet for upcoming projects. Hopefully this Heather Glynn Gniazodowski
woodworking while watching Norm and leads to you seeing less of my name CREATIVE DIRECTOR ■ Edie Mann
MARKETING COORDINATOR ■
Roy. Not I (though, I did watch both of throughout the magazine and more of Genevieve Dickinson
them). Instead, I would look forward the woodworkers that helped shape ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR ■

to Thursday nights when I could catch the current generation. So, who’s work Julie Dillon; jdillon@ aimmedia.com
David’s show “Woodworks” on DIY have you followed and admired as a ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ■

Jack Christiansen; Tel: (847) 724-5623;

Network. David’s work was one of the woodworker, and who are your wood- jchristiansen@ aimmedia.com
biggest woodworking influences when working influences?
I was younger. Cheers.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS PRESIDENT, HOME GROUP ■

Peter H. Miller

JIMMY CLEWES: Carved Rim Bowl – pg. 46 PRESIDENT, MARINE GROUP ■

Gary DeSanctis
Hailing from England, Jimmy Clewes now resides in Las Vegas with his wife Mary and CTO ■ Brian Van Heuverswyn
dog Seamus. Jimmy has spent the last thirty-five years traveling the world teaching CFO ■ Stephen Pompeo
and demonstrating woodturning. His quick wit and straightforward approach have VP, MARKETING ■ Amanda Phillips
made him a favorite of students from across the globe. When not hosting students VP, EVENTS ■ Julie Zub
at his home in Las Vegas, Jimmy’s often found with a gold pan in hand, prospecting VP, CIRCULATION ■ Paige Nordmeyer
in the Vegas desert. HR DIRECTOR ■ Scott Roeder
ACCOUNTING MANAGER ■
Stephen O’Neill
DIRECTOR, RETAIL SALES ■ Susan Rose
CHAIRMAN ■ Andrew W. Clurman
ROB PETRIE: Working With Defects – pg. 56 CHAIRMAN EMERITUS ■
Efrem Zimbalist III
A lifelong woodworking enthusiast, Rob Petrie attended the University of Iowa,
majoring in journalism and writing. Enjoying all aspects of woodworking, Rob has
been on a particular carving kick lately. He enjoys the feeling of shaping the wood EDITORIAL CONTACT:
Logan Wittmer; lwittmer @ aimmedia.com
by hand and listening to what the grain has to tell him. If he’s not in the shop or the
office, you can probably find Rob biking or camping somewhere across the Midwest. SUBSCRIPTIONS:
For subscription questions or address changes, visit
www.popularwoodworking.com/customerservice
PHOTOS PROVIDED BY LOGAN WITTMER

or call (877) 860-9140 (U.S. only). U.S. subscription

rate $24.95, single price $6.99. Canadian sub-
scriptions rate $34.95 USD. Canadian Agreement
WILLIE SANDRY: Exact Width Dado Jigs – pg. 30 No. 40025316.

Hailing from the Pacific Northwest, Willie Sandry is a long time fan of Arts & Crafts CUSTOMER SERVICE:
P.O. Box 842, Des Moines, IA 50304-0842,
furniture. He enjoys taking inspiration for his projects from antique furniture exhibitions subscriptions @ aimmedia.com
as well as “old barn finds.” Never one to do a job part-way, Willie has developed a
vast skill set to elevate his projects. From sawing lumber and kiln drying it to finishing COPYRIGHT:
2022 by Active Interest Media Holdco, Inc. Des
a chair with top-notch upholstery, Willie sees a project through from the start until Moines, Iowa. This publication may not be repro-
finish. YouTube: The Thoughtful Woodworker. duced, either in whole or part, in any form without
written permission from the publisher.
 Connect
WORKSHOP TIPS

Longer-Lasting Steel Wool

It’s always bugged me
that steel wool pads don’t
last longer. Each pad is
made of thousands of
sharp-edge steel strands.
The problem is, they’re
packed together so
tightly they clog up right
away, and most of them
never get used.
I’m a die-hard tightwad,
so I came up with this PHOTO BY BILL ZEUHLKE
trick to extend the life of
my steel wool. I unroll each pad and shape it into a
fluffy ball before I use it. As the ball gets flattened,
I stop and gently pull it back apart. Re-fluffing
exposes new sharp edges and releases wood dust and
broken-off bits of worn-out steel wool. — Denny Sutten
(Wilmington, NC)

Make Your Own Wood Putty

Tired of never
having fresh wood HOMEMADE
putty when you need PUTTY
it? You’ve probably
opened a can and
found its contents
dried out, unusable,
or the wrong color.
If you plan to use
a clear finish, you
can make your own
SA
SAN
S
SANDING
ANNDIN
DING
DI
putty from sanding DUS
DUS
DUST
ST
dust (save some VA
VAR
VARNISH
ARNI
NIISH
NIS
when you’re sanding
your project) and
varnish. Just mix PHOTO BY MIKE HABERMANN
the two into a thick
dough by adding the varnish to the dust, a little at a
time. Varnish makes a good binder. Even though it takes
a long time, once dry, it stays dry. Shellac and lacquer
may dry faster, but putty made with them tends to dis-
solve under a fresh topcoat of the same finish.
Apply the dough with a putty knife and let it dry (at
least overnight) before sanding. Under a clear finish,
this putty closely matches the wood tone, although it
may be a slightly darker color.
 Connect
WORKSHOP TIPS

Easy-Tighten Bar Clamp

Bar clamps are great tools, but some-
times it’s tough to get a good grip on
the small wooden handle. To get extra
torque, I drilled a hole in the handle
and inserted a dowel. It gives me a
lot more twisting oomph with a lot
less hand strain. I drilled the 3/8" hole
3/4" from the bottom of the handle to
avoid hitting the bolt that extends the
top of the handle. (The dowel is 3/8"
diameter x 5" long.) — Jon Stumbras

Organized Storage
for Short Stock
My storage bin makes it easy to find the perfect offcut
by automatically organizing pieces by length. It has
one fixed center divider and six that I can quickly add
or remove, to customize the storage as my collection
of short pieces changes.
I made the box from a sheet of plywood cut into two
4' x 4' pieces. I cut one piece in half to create the 24" by
48" bottom, the 24" x 18" tall front, and 24" x 30" tall
back. I cut the other 4' x 4' piece diagonally to form the
two sloping sides. The 4" wide dividers were cut from
scrap stock. They install in stopped dadoes routed in
the sides. I mounted four heavy-duty swivel casters
under the bin, so it steers easily. — Serge Duclos
Basic Rules of Epoxy
Epoxy is a two-part glue: a hardener and a resin that
combine to form a hard, durable plastic. It’s important
to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and use
correct ratios of resin and hardener to ensure the glue
cures fully and reaches its maximum strength. Epoxy
generates heat as it cures; in fact, the heat helps it cure.
The larger the batch, the more heat it generates. It’s
best to mix small batches to maximize your working
time. If you need a large batch, pour the mixed epoxy
PHOTOS PROVIDED BY THE AUTHORS

into a large flat container, such as a pie pan. This has a

cooling effect and increases your work time.
Working with epoxy does require that you take some
precautions. Always wear protective clothing and safety
glasses when you work with epoxy. Nitrile or Latex
gloves are a must. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated
space or wear a respirator. Be careful to dispose of used
rags in a covered metal container.

8 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 FOR THE PRO IN YOU
Professionals prefer Titebond wood glues more than 7 to 1.

Pros trust the Titebond wood glue brand for the proven performance, respected
advice and reliable solutions they demand each and every time. So should you.

01105_5195bcm titebond.com | 1-800-347-4583

 Connect
NEW TOOLS

18V ONE+™ Random Orbit Sander

Usually, the first steps of reviewing and two weaknesses. In the positive
a tool are taking it out of the box, column, the sander is comfortable
charging the batteries, then photo- to hold, very well-balanced, and a
graphing the tool while it’s still in 4ah battery lasts for quite a while
pristine condition. However, the under constant usage. Ryobi claims
new Ryobi 18V ONE+ Random Orbit 40% reduced vibrations, and even
Sander didn’t get quite that type after using it for long stretches of
of treatment. It showed up right time, I didn’t notice any phantom
as I was undertaking a handful of vibrations or discomfort. I had no
outdoor projects, like refinishing a complaints with the evenness of the
neglected chaise lounge on the back- sanding or how quickly the mate-
yard patio. I had forgotten to charge rial was being removed. The fixed
the batteries for my other cordless 10,000 OPM (orbits per minute)
sander, and I had no desire to run speed sits right in the middle range
extension cords, so I grabbed a fresh for most random orbit sanders, and
Ryobi battery off the charger (it’s I never felt the need to change it for
also sold with a battery and charger the tasks I was working on.
under the model #PCL406K1) and That being said, I still need to ■ 18V ONE+™ 5" Random Orbit
immediately went to work. put the lack of speed control in Sander PCL406B
While this meant I had to skip the the negative column. Some other Ryobi Tools
RyobiTools.com
usual photo session, it was a great sanders at this price point have that
Price: $59 (bare tool, 3 sheets of sandpaper)
opportunity to get a bunch of re- feature, and it’s nice to have when

PHOTOS BY THE AUTHORS

al-world use right off the bat. I was the need arises. The other annoyance
able to use the sander in a variety I had was that the dust collection bag panied by a large cloud of fine partic-
of situations, holding it at different would sometimes fly off unexpected- ulate. I can’t seem to find anyone else
angles and with different grits of ly. The sander actually did a great job with this issue, so it could just be an
sandpaper. Over the course of the of sucking up the dust, so every time unfortunate manufacturing defect on
weekend, I found several strengths the bag was launched it was accom- my tool. — Collin Knoff

Tool Hangerz
Pegboard and slat wall organization have been a staple in n
orr
shops for years. In my shop, I utilize a slat-wall system for
most of my power tool storage. In the past, I’ve needed
to make custom holders for many of my tools, due to thee
lack of options. Recently, however, I stumbled across a
company, Tool Hangerz, that makes storage racks for
a variety of power tools.
The racks, as you see to the right, are custom
es,, and
designed to hold drills, routers, batteries,
many other cordless tools. The holderss
work in both slat walls and pegboard,
but the company also makes direct-
mount style holders that screw to
■ PEGBOARD HANGERS
the wall. Overall, it’s a great option Tool Hangerz
for tool storage if you utilize pegboard ToolHangerz.com
or slat wall-type units in your shop. Price: $8.99-12.99
— Logan Wittmer

10 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Connect
NEW TOOLS

FitFinder
Dialing in a saw blade, router bit, or other cutting tool to ■ FITFINDER
make a cut exactly half the depth of stock seems like a sim- MicroJig
ple task. However, if you’ve ever spent time dialing in a dado MicroJig.com
or rabbet depth or test fitting a lap joint (such as a half lap), Price: $34.99
you’ll know that it can often be a tedious task. The new Fit-
Finder from Microjig makes setting up a blade height a snap.
The premise behind the fit finder is that it has two
sliding, yet affixed to each other, arms. One slider is raised
up, and your workpiece is slipped underneath it. When you
press down on the arm, the sliding action of the indica-
tor arm lowers down to precisely the halfway point (in
thickness) of the stock. As you can see in the photo, you
can then use the small arm to help set up the machine that
you’re working on. The base of the FitFinder has a pair of
embedded magnets that help hold everything down firmly having the bit perfectly centered is critical.
to the saw surface for a precise setup. While looking at the FitFinder, you may be tempted to
While it’s easy to see the benefits of this tool at the table use it to simply find the center (thickness) of stock. How-
saw, I think some of the more interesting applications ever, with its 3” height capacity, you can easily mark the
come over at the router table. With the FitFinder, you’re center of stock for rails and stiles in your projects. Overall,
able to quickly and easily center router bits on stock. This it’s a nifty little tool ( like all MicroJig products) that can
is especially helpful when you’re setting up tedious bits be stored out of the way, under the wing of your table saw.
such as bird’s mouth bits, finger joint bits, and more, where — Logan Wittmer

Dremel® 7350 Rotary Tool

PHOTOS BY THE AUTHORS & MANUFACTURERS

A few years ago, I reorganized all of my toolboxes based on an issue. I especially appreciated how lightweight and
the primary use of the tools inside. One for electrical, one comfortable it was to hold. If I had one thing to complain
for plumbing, one for general use, etc. Whenever I have a about, it would be the fact that it uses a micro USB to
task in one of those areas, I grab the specified toolbox and charge instead of the now-common USB-C, but that’s not
get to work. I often find myself grabbing my Dremel as well, a deal-breaker by any means.
especially when doing renovation work where a small cut-off For now, the 7350 resides in my
■ 7350
wheel or grinder is often useful. The Dremel 8260 made this general use toolbox, between the elec- ROTARY
process a lot easier by being battery-powered, but the new tric screwdriver and a large crescent TOOL
7350 takes portability to new heights while also being inex- wrench. But I suspect it won’t be long Dremel
pensive enough that I might just add one to each toolbox. before I pick up another one (or two) Dremel.com
While the aforementioned 8260 sits on top of the Dremel as impulse buys to spread around to my Price: $29.99
range, the 7350 is their new entry-level model. It features other toolkits. — Collin Knoff
a single-speed 12,000 RPM motor and an internal USB-
charge battery in a package that’s less than half the size and
weight of its big brother. Oh ... it only costs $30! There
ere are
definitely some concessions to that price point— there’s
here’s no
battery meter, for example. But $30 is nothing in the he
world of tools.
The best part is that it doesn’t feel like
a compromised option. It just acts like a
normal Dremel during regular use. There are
a few tasks it’s not well suited for, like cutting
through thicker metal, but I spent an hour
doing some grinding and polishing without

12 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
BESSEY EHK Trigger Clamps
BESSEY Tool’s reputation for quality, value and user-focused German engineering continues to
build a brand that professionals can turn to with confidence. Since 1889, our focus on clamping
tool development and continuous improvement has created clamps that get the job done with
a focus that none can match. At BESSEY, we don’t also make clamps, we only make clamps.
BESSEY EHK Series of trigger clamps; clamping force from 40 lbs to 600 lbs; capacity from 41⁄2" to 50".

BESSEY. Simply better.

besseytools.com
 In The Shop A well-equipped shop will
have a variety of clamps

5 Must-Have Clamps
For Your Shop
for different situations.
Here’s our favorites.
By PW Editors

I think that you’ve probably heard the saying that Don’t get me wrong, though. If you find a box of
“a woodworker can never have too many clamps.” clamps at a garage sale, and you need to have some form
Heck, you may have even used that as an excuse (or of consent to get clamps, I give you my full blessing
affirmation) about buying additional clamps. I won’t to buy as many as you can fit in the back of your pinto.
tell. However, I feel as though a better saying would However, some of us work with limited shop space and
be “a woodworker can never have too many of the right storage for clamps. In this case, I’ve found that being
clamps.” What I mean by that is an entire shop full of strategic with clamp purchases and making sure that
clamps won’t do any good if they don’t work for the you have the right mix in your shop will alleviate some
task at hand. headaches as you’re working on a project, and getting
PHOTOS BY CHRIS HENNESSEY

Now, I know that clamps aren’t the coolest thing in ready to glue up.
the world. They’re not a sexy, boutique handplane, fan- I am going to point out that these clamps are particular
cy chisel, or the latest and greatest table saw. However, I clamps and styles that I like to use, and you might find
think they tend to be one of the last things people think useful. I know clamps can be expensive, and some people
about while buying tools. You would be surprised by are fans of buying mass quantities of cheap, discount
the number of shops I walk into full of the newest tools, store clamps. That’s perfectly fine and acceptable. How-
only to find a hodge-podge of clamps with little thought ever, these are the styles that I like and what I prefer to
given to their use or place in the shop ecosystem. keep on hand.

14 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Clamps

■ F-STYLE CLAMPS
If I’m in my shop and someone asks
me for a clamp, my first instinct
is to grab an F-style clamp. This
style of clamp is one of the most
versatile clamps that you can have
around, in my opinion. Not only can
you apply a tremendous amount of
force, depending on the style, but
they’re also available in a ridiculous
amount of sizes.
One of my favorite sizes to keep
on hand is the mini F-style (the
Semble brand is shown here — lower
left in the photo). These are my
go-to for clamping on stop blocks at
the router table, table saw, and miter
saw. With a 2" depth, they also work
well for clamping together plywood
when you are laminating sheets together. I’m not terribly picky about the brand of these
For general clamping tasks, a 4" clamping depth is clamps, as long as they’re quality. I’ve found that Bessey
about perfect. I keep a variety of bar lengths around, and Semble are two of the best, in my opinion. I don’t
ranging from 8"- 24". Depending on the size, these deliver really care for the style that uses a spring trigger on the
about 800 lbs of clamping force and are the perfect way to head. The Bessey and Semble use a cam-type action to
apply precise clamping pressure. Not only do these work lock the head on the bar. I’ve never had one of these slip
for clamping parts together during glue-up, but I’ll often or “go bad”, whereas I’ve had a few older “trigger” styles
use them to hold portable tools to the bench (lower right that will start to slip. At that point, it’s time they hit the
photo). Generally, the longer the bar on F-style clamps, garbage. These tend to be my go-to clamps for most
the more they will flex during use. things.

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 15
 Clamps

■ HANDSCREWS
Now here’s a clamp that I feel like is the black sheep
in most shops. If there’s a clamp that doesn’t get
sufficient love, it’s a handscrew. These clamps are
pretty easy to find in flea markets and garage sales, but
Jorgensen and others still make them new.
I won’t classify handscrews as a workpiece clamp,
per se. Instead, I use handscrews as an extra hand in
most instances. They’re great at holding large plywood
panels on edge while working on assembly (top photo,
below). You can even hold the handscrew to the bench
with another clamp. Because the handscrew is a wood
clamp, it’s easy to modify the ends of the handscrew
for specialty tasks. I have a few different handscrews
that I’ve notched the jaws or drilled holes in for hold-
ing round parts. As you see in the lower photo, you can
easily hold round parts at the drill press or bandsaw
while keeping your hands out of the way. If you add a
few of these inexpensive clamps to your shop, I think
you’ll come to appreciate them.

■ I-BEAM CLAMPS
I know that many woodworkers like to use pipe clamps.
I, however, do not like them. I’ve found that gluing up
a panel with pipe clamps will almost always yield black
marks all over my workpiece. That combined with the
heads always spinning and twisting around, and my
hands ending up black— that’s a nope from me.
Instead, for my panel glue-ups, or longer clamping
needs, I use the Bessey I-beam clamps. I like the heft
of them, and the lead screws on the heads are quick
to adjust and apply great pressure. When it comes to
doing a panel glue-up, such as this mahogany top, the
clamps sit nicely on a bench, and I can get more than
enough clamping pressure. While I do also like using
the aluminum-style bar clamps (such as the ones
from Dubuque Clamp Works), I feel like these I-beams
have a slight edge in use. The bars don’t bend like the
aluminum ones, as the heads are slightly deeper.
Big bar clamps like these start to add up quickly as
you buy them, so I try not to go too crazy here. Three
clamps are usually good when gluing up a panel,
but adding an extra clamp in there is not a bad idea,
especially if you like to alternate directions of your
clamps as you’re gluing up a panel.

16 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
Put Productivity
IN THE PALM
OF YOUR HANDS

For more information on ProSand visit:

http://nortonsga.us/pw0518

© Saint-Gobain 2020

• Mortise & Tenon

Precision
• Box Joints
woodworking and Dovetails
has never • Set-up to
glue-up
been easier. in minutes
• Easy to Use
• Ideal for both
hobby and
professional
woodworkers

See videos and get more project

ideas at www.PantoRouter.com
or call (877) 333-7150
 presents

BEST NEW WOODWORKING

New Dust Deputy Mini Planer: Speed Set Wood Glue
2.5 Cyclone MASSIVE Output Ideal for High-Volume
Woodworking Needs
Pre-Separator Delivers
Twice the Airflow

Titebond Speed Set Wood Glue is extremely

Triton’s TMNPL Mini Planer is lightweight, easy fast-setting, high solids PVA adhesive. It sets in
to handle, and includes all the features of a half the time as other PVA wood glues, typically
conventional-sized power planer, perfect for cutting clamp time to just 15 minutes. It provides
Made in USA, this new larger cyclone design fast material removal on small to medium-sized exceptional gap filling properties developing a
is made for today’s more powerful wet/dry workpieces. The planer utilizes dual 2 3 /8" re- bond stronger than the wood itself. This prod-
vacuums. It’s a perfect fit to 2.5" hose cuffs versible blades, operates at 32,000 cuts per uct offers excellent sandability, unaffected by
that come standard on most vacuums. Delivers minute, and offers a combination of power and finishes, and increases productivity through its
up to twice the airflow of other cyclone or lid balance for safe, comfortable single-hand- shorter clamp time with no increase in viscosity.
style-separators. Pre-separates 99 percent of ed use. Easy to setup, the TMNPL features Titebond Speed Set is non-toxic and cleans up
dust and debris from the airstream, virtually a precise 6-position depth control, and two with water. Available in 8 oz. bottles, 1 gal. jugs,
eliminating clogged filters and suction loss. V-grooves for chamfering edges. the 2.15 gal. PROjig, and 5 gal. pails.

Visit Onedia-Air.com Visit TritonTools.com Visit Titebond.com

or call 800-732-4065 or call 855-277-3478 or call 800-347-4583

Compass Universal 3.25 hp Fixed Base The Extractor

Roller Guides Router Drill Press Dust Collection that Works

During wood cutting, it is always essential to

have a device to hold the workpiece firmly and The BORA 3.25hp Fixed Base Router is a
evenly to the fence. Featuring the indepen- woodworker’s best friend. Reliable and dura-
dent suspension mechanism, infinite holding ble, it features an adjustable speed control that The Extractor traps and removes virtually all
force adjustment, one-way roller bearings, is completely sealed. It’s great at minimizing shavings from the drill press no matter how
and seamless T-slot mounts, the Compass dust and maintaining constant speed while fast you cut holes. It fits any drill press and any
Universal Roller Guides are designed and under load. You can even remove the router hose (a coupler may be needed). No modifica-
manufactured with the best possible struc- motor to use it in router lifts or CNC machines tions to the drill press are needed. Use it on a
ture, aesthetics, materials, and accuracy. that use a 4.2" diameter router motor. The fence with built-in dust collection or attach it to
We are confident that the Compass Universal heavy-duty, precision-milled base keeps all the end of a hose. Glides up and down the drill
Roller Guides will be lovely buddies for your your cuts even from beginning to end, helping press column for easy height adjustment. A light
safe and enjoyable woodworking! you achieve your best work. illuminates the inside.

Visit HarveyWoodworking.com Visit BoraTool.com Visit NelsonsShopSolutions.com

or call 888-211-0397 or call 866-588-0395 or call 888-823-1108
 SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE

TOOLS & PRODUCTS

EXACT-90 Miter Gauge Optima™ Chisels Pocket-Hole Jig®
720PRO

The Pocket-Hole Jig® 720PRO is the latest

innovation in pocket-hole joinery, and it’s the
premium choice for project builders who want
to build smarter and faster than ever. This jig
Blue Spruce Toolworks Optima™ Chisels feature was engineered to take your wood projects to
Woodpeckers engineers have developed a new a lapped and polished back with flatness mea- the next level — with features like one-motion
type of miter gauge. One that reliably performs sured in light bands (the same system used to Automaxx™ clamping, which automatically
the job woodworkers need most from it, a measure silicon wafers). This incredible surface clamps and sets the material thickness setting
perfectly square cut. They also made sure their results in edge sharpness unlike any other chisel for pieces 1/2" to 11/2" thick. It also includes
miter gauge could do the job flawlessly regard- in the world. You will never have to flatten the the Kreg® Docking Station, which transforms
less of how sloppy the miter slot. Introducing backs of your Blue Spruce Optima™ Chisels, the Pocket-Hole Jig® 720PRO into the ultimate
Woodpeckers Exact-90 Miter Gauge… solidly ever. And, when you unbox your new Optima™ benchtop workstation. Every element of this jig
fixed at 90° and featuring a patent pending miter Chisels, they’re razor shape and 100% ready to was created to maximize the work you do so you
bar design that fits ANY 3/8" x 3/4" miter slot. go to work. No sharpening, no honing, no nothing. can get high-quality results.

Visit Woodpeck.com Visit BlueSpruceToolworks.com Visit KregTool.com

or call 800-752-0725 or call 877-828-0332 or call 800-447-8638

13/8" 23 Gauge Introducing a Marquetry Rotary Burr Kits

Pin Nailer Saw for the Rest of Us

The new TN11G1 1 3/8" 23-gauge pin nailer is The NEW Kutzall Burr Kits are perfect for hob-
built with SENCO’s NEVERLUBE oil-free design, byists interested in trying their hand at power
delivering maintenance-free operation and Introducing a smaller marquetry saw for the carving, as well as expert woodworkers looking
eliminating oil spillover and stains on finished rest of us. Built around the same tilting ball to upgrade or enhance their tool collection.
surfaces. Additional features include an ergo- bearing guide tower as the big Lee Marshall They pack a lot of shaping versatility into
nomic angled pistol-grip handle, reversible belt edition Marquetry saw, combined with the one simple choice. Take the guesswork out
hook, automatic adjusting magazine, and ul- rugged simplicity of our heavy-duty fret saws. of choosing the Burrs you need, with Kits to
tra-narrow nosepiece, making the TN11G1 your A much more affordable option to enable your match your favorite power tools, in the two
go-to pin nailer when the details matter. marquetry projects. most common shaft sizes, 1/8" and 1/4".

Visit Senco.com Visit KnewConcepts.com Visit Kutzall.com

or call 800-543-4596 or call 831-234-4652 or call 855-KUTZALL
 BEST NEW WOODWORKING
SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE TOOLS & PRODUCTS CONTINUED

HP-6FX Mini Multi-Plane One Router.

Two Bases.
Unlimited
Possibilities.

HP-6FX Mini Multi-Plane is a specialized hand planning tool for Triton’s compact, lightweight TMNRTR Trimmer router includes Plunge
profiling shapes, which can be used to make shoulder groove, and Trimmer bases as standard, ideal for mortising, moulding and
straight groove, V-groove, arc groove, and other special shapes on edging of laminates. The trimmer base’s edge roller-guide allows use
the workpiece surface. It functions as a small plane system featur- for bearingless cutters. The flat-sided plunge base routs smoothly
ing interchangeable soles and mated, self-indexing irons. By pre- against a straight edge or attaches to the parallel fence guide for a
cisely machining the plane “frame” or body with dovetail slots, we range of zero inches to 5 1/8". Router-table ready, the plunge base has
have created a tool where you can quickly change the sole and irons. an integrated router lift and includes a table-height winder.

Visit BridgeCityTools.com Visit TritonTools.com

or call 888-211-0397 or call 855-277-3478
 Clamps

■ PARALLEL CLAMPS
If the I-beam clamps are my panel glue-up clamp, then out of square while you’re applying clamping pressure.
I’d label my parallel clamps as my drawer and case The wide jaws also spread the pressure out more, so
clamps. As the name implies, the wide jaws stay parallel they have less likelihood of denting your workpiece with
to each other as you apply clamping force. These guys excessive clamping pressure (I’m guilty of denting parts
are perfect for clamping up cases, drawer boxes, and with both F-style and I-beam clamps).
boxes... really anything that has the risk of being pulled The new Semble parallel clamps have quickly become
one of my favorites, as they have
the unique feature that allows
the handle to rotate 90° to give
you extra torque while clamping.
This is a feature that I appreciate,
especially once my golfer’s elbow
starts to flare up during sawmill-
ing season.
An additional feature that is
rarely needed, but appreciated
when the need does arise, is the
ability of most parallel clamps to
have the clamp head rotated. This
means you can use the clamp as a
spreader instead of a clamp. This
comes in handy when you need to
reverse a glue up when you realize
that you forgot to slip a panel in
place (ask me how I know).

■ 20" DEEP REACH CLAMP

Finally, this is a clamp that there’s no substitute for.
While technically, these deep reach clamps from Bessey
are an F-style clamp, they’re so specialized, unique, and
absolutely useful that I felt as though they needed a
section to themselves. These behemoths have the ability
to reach far inland on a workpiece and apply clamping
pressure where others can’t. I find them particularly
useful when working on a panel lamination, such as
laminating stock together for thick panels, or holding a
lid to the top of a case while assembling a project. They
also work well on more delicate tasks, such as clamping
runners in place in a deep case.
These aren’t a clamp that gets used all of the time
in my shop, so a pair of these heifers are about all that
I usually need. They are heavy, you can get a ton of
pressure out of them, but you don’t want to be lugging
them all over the shop. These clamps are available in
depths of 10", 12", and 20" (all with 24"-length bars),
however, I feel as though if you’re going to get a deep
reach clamp, you might as well just get the deepest
reach one available. PW — Logan Wittmer

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 21
 Tools 101

Specialty Chisels
For Your Shop
By Logan Wittmer

These five specialty chisels will be the

perfect compliment to your bench chisels.

The amount of woodworkers

that I meet that don’t have a good
■ FRAMING CHISEL working with large timbers (such as
the timber frame pieces above), and
set of chisels nearly floors me. This first chisel that is in my specialty when making large paring cuts where
With the work I do, I couldn’t drawer is a large, 11/2" framing chisel. the wide, long back of the chisel
survive without my sharp set of This wide, razor-sharp chisel is just serves as a reference point. In fact,
bench chisels. Between fine-tuning what the doctor ordered when it I used my Barr chisel to pare down
joints, paring waste, and cleaning comes to large paring tasks or taking the Kumiko pieces that are used in
up problem areas, they may just a beating when hogging out waste. the wall shelf on page 44.
be the most used tools in my shop. This particular chisel is made by Barr My large framing chisel may not
However, there are certain tasks Quarton and, while an investment, a be an everyday tool in my shop, but
that my standard bench chisels worthwhile one. utting edge,
when I need the wide cutting
just don’t cut it (pun intended). The benefit of a framing chisel, zor-sharp edge,
mass, and a razor-sharp
In these instances, I’ll often reach compared to a bench chisel, is that ard to beat.
it’s hard
for a set of specialty chisels that I they have extra weight, length, and
keep on hand. Over the next pages, mass. This makes them perfectfect for
I want to show you some of my heavy chopping
specialty chisels that help get you tasks,
out of some sticky situations.
PHOTOS BY CHRIS HENNESSEY

BARR FRAMING
CHISEL
BarrTools.com
Price: $164

22 ■ P
POPULAR
OP
PULAR
ULA
LAR WOOD
W
WOODWORKING
OODW
WOR
ORKIN
KING
G
 Specialty Chisels

BLUE SPRUCE
TOOLWORKS
bluesprucetoolworks.com
Price: $115

■ PARING CHISEL Another feature that lends itself

to this type of chisel is the low bevel
at how accurately you can pare
miters on the ends of workpieces.
If my bench chisels are my most used angle. While most of my chisels are Really, any time that you need to
tool in my shop, this next chisel is ground around 25-30°, my paring pare end grain, the paring chisel is
the second most used. That’s my chisel is ground much lower. I didn’t worth its weight in gold.
paring chisel. This wider, 1" blade is actually measure it, but it’s proba- When looking for a paring chisel,
lightweight and is a paring machine bly in the 17-20° range. This lower look for a flat back, a long blade (7-
(oddly enough). There are a couple bevel angle allows it to have a much 10" or so), and a comfortable handle.
of features of this chisel that make it keener edge and slice and pare grain Some vintage styles that I’ve found
adept for such a task. more efficiently than a standard have a crane (or swan) neck handle
The first, is the blade is long and bench chisel. This does come with on them. While I could see these
thin. This thinness makes it feel a drawback, however. A paring occasionally being useful if you were
nearly flexible. And, if you pick up chisel is meant only for hand-guided paring in the middle of a panel, I’ve
a high-quality chisel, such as the work— never with a mallet. never found the need to pull one
Optima paring chisel from Blue Spruce So, how do I use a paring chisel of them out of my pile and sharpen
(as seen here), the back will be in my shop? Well, one of the most them up. For my money, however,
ground and polished completely flat. common ways is with the use of you can’t beat the Optima paring
This means that the back will feel as a guide block, as you see above. chisel from Blue Spruce. Then again,
though it almost suctions down to I’ve found that an accurately made I’m a Blue Spruce fanboy, so take that
the reference surface as you guide block (usually made of hard for what it’s worth. Whatever you
are paring. maple) serves as a great reference do, do yourself a favor and pick up
for the long blade of the chisel. a paring chisel. I’ve found a 1"-wide
With a reference block and a sharp chisel to be a great size, but I could
paring chisel, you’ll be be convinced that a 3/4" size would
amazed be just as valuable and be able to get
into dadoes and grooves.

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 23
 Specialty Chisels

■ SKEW CHISEL
This next chisel is actually a pair of
chisels. And those are skew chisels.
Not to be confused with skew chisels
for turning, these are sneaky little
buggers that provide some interest-
ing benefits.
Skew chisels, such as these, func-
tion like a standard bench chisel,
except with a little extra reach into
corners. This can be particularly
helpful while you're nipping away at
a tight corner, such as the inside of a
dovetail like you see here. Really, any
time that you’re trying to accurately
reach into a tight corner, joint, or any
other area that a standard chisel is
just too big and bulky to get into.
Another benefit is that the skewed
cutting edge acts like a skewed blade
on a plane. That is to say that it slic-
es grain at a shear angle. This leaves
a much cleaner cut, especially when
dealing with figured wood, timbers
prone to chip out, or end grain. Of Instead, you will want to use a top- However, if you want to try one out
course, the chisel does need to be clamping guide such as the Veritas before you invest in one, it’s easy
sharp to perform well (who would MKII. The very same reason that I enough to grind an angle on the
have thought?). Getting a skew chis- dislike that guide is what makes it end of an old, unused chisel. Shape
el sharp can be a daunting task for work well for a skew chisel —the the angle and bevel at the bench
some woodworkers due to the angle chisel (or plane iron) can easily be grinder— just watch the thin tip, as
of the bevel. rotated out of square, so you end up it can quickly overheat. Final sharp-
If you free-hand sharpen, a skew sharpening an unintended angle at ening can be done with whatever
chisel shouldn’t be too crazy. The tip the end of your tool. Obviously, this method you wish. My Blue Spruce
of the skew is about 30°, so you will works well for a skew chisel. skews are 3/8", but if I were to order
just need to ride the bevel with the Like the paring chisel before, them again, I’d opt for the 1/4" set,
handle cocked off to one side. If you skew chisels are only really meant as I feel like the smaller size would
use a honing guide, you would not be to be used with hand pressure. work better for narrow dovetails.
able to use a side-clamping ver- These chisels are often available When you’re working in tight
sion, such as the older Ellipse in left-hand and right-hand skews, corners, skews are surely
style (or more modern such as the two from Blue Spruce a handy little chisel to
side clamps below. I like my tools to match, have in the toolbox.
as well). so I grabbed the Blue Spruce set.

SKEW CHISEL
BlueSpruceToolworks.com
Price: $90

24 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
Innovative Products
High-Quality Machines & Tools
SINCE 1989!
 Specialty
Sp
p e c ialty Chisels
Chise
els

■ FISHTAIL CHISEL I usually end up heavily beveling

the back of the tails, so if my socket
I’m going to eat some of my words wasn’t clean, I could still get the
here for a minute. I’ve always said joint together.
how I do not like one-trick ponies in Once I added a fishtail chisel, my
my shop. Like my kitchen, everything world was rocked. All of a sudden,
in my shop needs to have more than I could easily follow the edge of the
one use, or it doesn’t earn its place. socket with the chisel and reach right
The fishtail chisel is (for me) a one- into the corners. If you don’t do half-
trick pony that I absolutely adore blind dovetails, you may not see the
when I’m doing half-blind dovetails. need for a fishtail chisel. However,
As you can see from the photo to if it looks interesting, you can also
the left, the fishtail chisel gets its grind an old chisel into a fishtail.
name from the shape of the cutting If you decide to try and grind one,
edge. The chisel blade is narrow and my biggest piece of advice would be
flairs out as it gets to the bevel. This not to try and make the blade narrow
fishtail shape is one of the easiest the entire length like my Blue Spruce.
and most efficient ways to clean Instead, concentrate on the area right
out the inside of half-blind dovetail around the bevel. All you need is a
sockets, as you see below. Without a small neck before the bevel—it only
fishtail shape, I’ve been in there with needs to be narrow for about an inch
my tiniest chisels, utility knives, and or so. Like the previous chisels, hand
really anything I could to clean out pressure only on this guy. No mallet
the remaining waste in the corners use on the fishtail—this dainty chisel
of the sockets. At the end of the day, isn’t meant for that.

FISHTAIL CHISEL
BlueSpruceToolworks.com
Price: $90

26 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Specialty Chisels

■ BLUNTED CHISEL
Up until now, you’ve seen several of
my nice chisels. I like good-looking
tools. Sue me. However, this final
chisel is a dirt-cheap, bargain bin
chisel that gets a boat-load of use in
my shop. And that’s a blunted chisel.
Now, I want to give a little back
story here. One of my favorite plane
makers, Bill Carter, is the driving
force behind this chisel (and, being
English, his term is “blunted” instead
of “dull”). I first saw Bill use a blunt-
ed chisel in one of his videos several
years back, and I knew I had to give it
a go. Here’s the concept:
Any old chisel (I use a vintage
Wetherby chisel) works for this. You
simply take the chisel to the bench
grinder and set your platform at
90°. Then, you blunt the tip ever so
slightly (with the bevel face down).
You’re looking for about a 1/16" dull
edge that is 90° to the back of the
chisel. That’s it. All of a sudden,
you’ve made a chisel that acts like
a scraper.
Bill totes this chisel for being Now, like any tool, you will wear good, sharp, full set of bench chisels,
used on hard, dense timbers. As away the “cutting” edge. A really these few specialty chisels can really
you see in the photo above, I use quick swipe across the grinding compliment your set already in your
this when making wedges for hand stone will quickly restore the edge. shop. As I mentioned, apart from the
planes — here, I’m using it to scrape You don’t have to use this with only paring chisel, I may not use every one
across the end grain of some Gabon standard chisels either. I’ve got a of these chisels on all of my projects,
ebony. The chisel only produces whole set of gouges that I’ve blunted, but when I get to a spot where I need
small curly shavings. It’s not a large and that allows me to scrape away them, each and every one is worth its
waste removal tool. However, it at curved surfaces such as the swell weight in gold. PW—Logan Wittmer
leaves a beautiful surface. The hard- on plane wedges or on curved work
er the timber, the better the surface pieces. It’s a simple trick that works
it leaves. In fact, I’ve actually used like a charm.
this to scrape at some of the bronze While nothing
and brass hand planes I’ve made, replaces a
and it works like a charm. Being a
scraper, this is also a great way to
remove any dried glue.

28 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Exact Width PROJECT #2217_
Skill Level:
Beginner

Dado Jigs
Time: 1 Day
Cost: $75
PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR

Two simple router jigs to get perfectly sized dados and grooves, even
for undersized plywood. By Willie Sandry
30 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
The ability to cut perfectly snug
fitting dados and grooves is one of
those fundamental skills that will
catapult your woodworking into the
realm of cabinets and fine furniture.
Sure, you can cut accurate dados on
the table saw with a stacked dado
set, but that’s a real challenge if you
have large workpieces or stopped
dados. A bookcase, hutch, or cabinet
project may leave you wanting an
alternate way to cut dados.
The concept of an exact width
dado jig is pretty simple. Just use the 1
actual shelf stock you intend to use
for your project as a thickness gauge
to set up your jig. From there, you 1 Make a pair of end cleats from
3/4" thick plywood (or hardwood)
can rout the groove and expect per-
fect fitting dados each time … even sized 12 3/4" long x 4" wide. These
cleats will hold the rails together and
if your project includes 3/4" plywood
accept the hardware that makes the
that actually measures 23/32" or some jig adjustable.
other odd dimension. These jigs
aren’t new, and I’ve been using one 2 You’ll need two strips of 1/2" thick
for the better part of a decade with MDF for the rails of the jig. Make
one 7" wide and the other 5" wide.
predictable results. My first jig used a
Trim them to 30 1/2" long.
short-length bearing-guided bit, but
you can also use a guide bushing, as 3 Make a small template to help rout
long as your jig design accounts for the cutouts. I added three openings
the offset between the bit and bush- 2 on each rail — one 5 1/2" from each
end of the jig and one centered
ing. So, I came up with a design that
between the others. Carpet tape
can be built for either style of dado secures the template while you rout
jig and made sure to include some the opening with a spiral bit and
creature comforts like ‘finger grip’ guide bushing.
openings to help close the jig on your
4 Rout “finger grip” cutouts in both
shelf material and sliding stop blocks.
rails to help pinch the shelf stock in
Both versions provide zero clearance place when using the jig. This solves
to protect delicate plywood veneers a common problem with my original
and will have you making perfect shop-made jig and makes it much
dados in no time. Choose the version easier to set the width of your jig.
that best fits your shop or make 3
them both!

Build Guide Bushing Jig

This first version uses a 5/8" diame-
ter guide bushing and a 1/ 2" diame-
ter router bit. This allows the most
efficient and clean cutting of com-
mon 3/4" wide dados. If you plan to
cut 1/2" wide dado with the jig, select
a 1/2" diameter guide bushing and a
3/8" diameter bit. It’s worth noting
that this jig will work with most any
medium-length straight bit, but a
down-cut spiral bit will give the best
results in plywood. Cut parts for the 4

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 31
 Exact Width Dado Jig

rails of the jig using 1/2" MDF. Make Shape the Moveable Rail Now move on to milling the end
the fixed rail 5" wide and the adjust- One thing I learned from using my cleats to accept 5/16" T-bolts. You’ll
able rail 7" wide. The length of the large, clucky dado jig all those years make a shallow recess in the un-
rails depends on your needs, but I is you want the jig as small and light derside of these cleats, as well as a
sized them at 30 1/ 2 " overall length, as possible. With that goal in mind, I through-slot with two different bits
which accommodates a 22 1/2" wide shaped the moveable rail as shown at the router table.
case piece. If you plan on building in the detail rendering (page 35). By Use a straight bit that matches the
kitchen cabinets, you can make removing about 2" of material from width of your T-bolt hardware and
the jig 2" longer. Then cut the end one side of this rail, you’ll trim some create a 2 1/2" long groove at the rout-
cleats from 3/4" thick plywood or a weight but still leave plenty of room er table. Move the cleat between two
suitable hardwood. for the tool-free adjustment knobs. stop blocks on the router table fence
to control the length of the cut.
Then switch to a 5/16" spiral bit
and make a slot within the groove
you just made. This is simple if you
keep your stop blocks and fence in
the same position and mill the slot
in multiple passes. Increase the
depth no more than 1/4" per pass
until the bit breaks through the top
side of the cleat.
Next, you’ll mark and drill holes
in the moveable rail for the T-bolts.
Position the jig, so the gap between
the rails is 7/8" and center the hole in
the slot. The jig relies on the inner
edges of the rails being straight and
true. Take a moment to slide the
5 rails together to confirm that your
parts come together without any
gaps. If any adjustment is needed,
a light pass over the jointer should
correct any irregularities.
If you wish to have optional
sliding stop blocks for your dado
jig, take a minute to drill for a series
of 1/4" x 20 threaded inserts at the
drill press. The threaded inserts are
installed 3" apart in the fixed rail. If
your threaded inserts have a lip on
top, drill a shallow recess first. Then
drill a through hole, sized to easily
fit your particular threaded inserts.
I installed mine with a dab of epoxy
for good measure.
Now attach the end cleats to the
6 fixed rail. Glue and screws ensure
the jig will hold up to the rigors of
everyday shop life. Use an accurate
5 Trim away 2" of width on the moveable rail. This will lighten the jig while still square to set the cleats and fixed rail
preserving enough room for knobs and clamps. 90° to one another.
6 Set the bit height slightly more than the thickness of the T-bolt head. Carefully At this point, you’re ready to
pass the end cleat over a straight bit. Stop blocks installed on the router table add an important element to the
fence control the length of the cut. bushing-guided jig. A layer of 1/4"
MDF is attached to the underside

32 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
7

7 Make sure the T-bolt easily slides

in the groove. If you need to widen
the slot with a second pass, make
sure to move the router table fence
away from you for the second pass
(to avoid making a climb cut).
10

8 Switch to 5/16" spiral bit and com-

plete the slot in multiple passes. The
key here is to leave your router table
fence and stop blocks in the same
position as the last operation. Make
multiple passes, raising the bit no
more than 1/4" per pass.
11

10 Slide the fixed rail and moveable rail together to make sure the edges come
together perfectly. If the edges of your 1/2" MDF parts are straight and true, you
can move on to marking and drilling holes to mount the end cleats.
11 Use a square to set the cleats 90° to the fixed rail. Although the cleats will
be assembled with glue and screws, it's useful to start with a couple of brad
nails to lock the parts in position. Then predrill for six screws at each end.

of the rails. This functions as a of adding the 1/4" MDF as a single

9 physical indicator of the cut line piece, I added it in strips. The outer
and helps you set your jig to the strip on each rail will permanently
correct width. It also makes the remain on the jig. The inner strips
9 Now a 5/16" T-Bolt will fit perfectly
into the cleat from the underside, yet
jig zero clearance in nature, which can be replaced as needed and
slide freely when adjusting your jig. leads to some of the cleanest look- are attached with #6 x 5/8" wood
ing dados you’ll ever see. Instead screws from underneath.

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 33
 Exact Width Dado Jig

12 Basically, you’ll attach 1/4" MDF

to the bottom of the jig, between the
cleats. Instead of installing it as two
large strips, I made 1 1/2" wide strips
on either side of the jig opening
(painted red for clarity). Now they
are easily replaceable if they get
damaged or if you change bushing
and bit combinations.
13 The thin strips will overhang the
opening in the jig about 1/4" and
are trimmed the first time it’s used.
Secure the sacrificial strips through
pre-drilled and countersunk holes
with five #6 x 5/8" screws.
14 Make stop blocks starting with
pieces of 1/2" MDF. Once cut and
routed, glue a hardwood strip in the
groove to complete the stop blocks.
12

13 14

Now all that’s left to do is trim in place with a single male threaded and short-length pattern bit are
the jig to suit your bit and bushing knob. A hardwood strip attached to keys to making the jig work.
combination (remember to carefully the stop block helps hold it in posi- When it comes to building this jig,
center your router sub-base first!). tion. Just make sure the hardwood luckily, the two jigs share the major
Once that’s taken care of, you can strip is sized to fit in the opening of parts in common, and in fact the
pinch the shelf stock between the the jig when in use. Since I only use cleats and rails of the jig are identical
rails of the jig and tighten down the my jigs to make 3/4" dados, I sized except the rails are made from 3/4"
knobs. Then clamp the jig to your the strips 13/16" wide and 11/16" tall. MDF. I built both jigs at the same
workpiece with a few small F-style If you like to make 1/2" dados, you’ll time, so I made the wide curved rail
clamps and rout the dado. need a thinner hardwood strip. for one jig, and pattern routed the
other to match. Assembly proceeds
Sliding Stop Blocks Make Bearing-Guided Jig just the same as before, although you
Add Functionality If you prefer to use a bearing-guided won’t need to add 1/4" MDF to the
Since the template-guided jig is bit, and skip the guide bushing al- underside of the bearing guided jig.
made from 1/2" thick MDF rails, together, this is the jig for you. The In operation, you’ll want to use a 1/2"
mounting T-track isn’t really an op- black bearing-guided jig is simplicity long x 1/2" diameter router bit. One
tion. So, I came up with an alternate at its best. The bearing simply rides other minor difference relates to the
method using sliding stop blocks. along the rails of the jig to create a stop blocks for the bearing guided jig.
The stop blocks have a slot that perfectly sized dado every time. The Make the hardwood strip 11/16" wide,
allows adjustability, and they lock extra thickness of the 3/4" MDF rails so it will fit between the rails.

34 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
■ Exact Width Dado Jig
F
A
G

E
D

F E

13/4"
C R 1/4"
C
B
D 17/8"
3"
3/4"
A

B
2 1/2"
(Red) Guide Bushing Jig 3/4"

3 1/8" R 5/32"
R 2"

Cut List 2"

2"
No. Items Dimensions (in)
T W L (Black) Bearing-Guided Jig
1 A Fixed rail /
1 2 5 30 1/2
1 B Movable rail /
1 2 7 30 1/2
2 C Cleats 3/4 4 12 3/4 Cut List
2 D Base* 1/4 10 22 1/2
2 E Strips * 1/4 1 1/2 22 1/2 No. Items Dimensions (in)
2 F Stop block* 1/2 4 4 1/2 T W L
2 G Stop block strip * 11/16 13/16 4 1/2 1 A Fixed rail /
3 4 5 30 1/2
1 B Movable rail /
3 4 7 30 1/2
MATERIALS: All items are made using MDF with the 2 C Cleats 3/4 4 12 3/4
exception of the cleats which are plywood. 2 F Stop block * 1/2 4 4 1/2
* Base (D) is cut to fit. D - G are painted red. 2 G Stop block strip * 11/16 13/16 4 1/2

* F & G are painted black.

Supplies Note: Black bearing-guided jig is assembled the same as
the (red) guide bushing jig, but without Base & Strips.

No. Items
6 / " x 20 threaded inserts
1 4

2 / " multi-knobs; Woodpeckers

5 16
Supplies
2 5/16" x 18 nuts for multi-knobs
No. Items
2 1/4" mini-T multi-knobs; Woodpeckers
6 / " x 20 threaded inserts
1 4
2 1/4" x 20 bolts for mini-T multi-knobs
2 / " 5-star female knobs; Rockler #51036
5 16
- #6 X 5/8" wood screws to attach 1/4" MDF 2 1/4" 4-star male knobs; Rockler # 51597
- #8 X 1" wood screws to attach cleats to rails - #8 X 1" wood screws to attach cleats to rails
2 5/16" T-bolts, 2 1/2" long
2 5/16" T-bolts, 2 1/2" long
 Exact Width Dado Jig

■ Using the Exact Width Dado Jigs

(Red) Guide Bushing Jig
1 - Calibrate
Select the bit and bushing combination you’ll
use with this jig. I use a 1/2" down-cut spiral bit
and 5/8" O.D. bushing. Use the same combina-
tion each time you use the jig. Simply move the
router in a clockwise direction to cut the dado
or groove. My favorite thing about exact width
jigs is that they show you precisely where the
cut will be made. There’s no offset to measure
or calculations to make. It removes the guess-
work and inspires confidence in your work.

2 - Set Width
But first— use your actual shelf stock to set the
width of the opening and tighten the knobs.
Note that with the bushing guide jig, you’ll
1 pinch the shelf stock between the sacrificial
red strips. Next clamp the jig and workpiece
securely to a bench to prepare for the cut. If you
need a stopped dado, take a minute to set the
extent of the cut with the sliding stock blocks.

3 - Test Fit
Now test the fit of your shelf stock in the dado.
I’ve come to expect precisely fitting grooves
and dadoes with this jig and rely on it for large
and small cases alike. It handles hardwood
shelves just as well as undersized plywood.

2 3

15 If you’d rather
Pros & Cons of Each Jig
spend your time get- I enjoy using these jigs and reach for
ting straight to work both quite often. The bushing-guid-
on projects, consider ed jig requires you to install and
Woodpecker’s Exact carefully center the router sub-base.
Width Dado Jig. It If your sub-base isn’t centered, it
has several built-in will trim more of the sacrificial strip
features including on one side than the other. This can
dado stops and a cause fitment issues the next time
scale, as well as se-
you use the jig. Luckily, the MDF
cure clamping plates.
It’s very solidly built
strips are easily replaceable. On the
and performed well plus side, the guide bushing lets you
plunge into your workpiece at any
15 in testing.
point without damage to the jig.

36 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 (Black) Bearing-Guided Jig
1 - Set Width
Place a scrap of your intended
shelf stock between the rails and
pinch the jig closed. Tighten the
knobs to secure the movable
rail and chuck a 1/2" diameter by
1/2" long bearing-guided bit in

your router. Clamp the jig down

over workpiece so it’s firmly
anchored to the bench. Set the
stop blocks as required for your
project and rout the dado in a
clockwise direction.
1

2 - Rout Dado
Make sure to keep the router
bit between the rails as you
make the initial plunge. With
the bearing-guided jig, it’s also
critical that the router stays fully
plunged for the entire cut. Don't
raise the router bit until after you
shut off the router.

The bearing-guided jig is a little that’s not an issue for me. I encour- creates accurate grooves and dados
trickier to use. In order to not cut age you to build both versions and and features robust construction
into the rails, you need to plunge see which jig fits best for the work from anodized aluminum, phenolic
the bit between them careful- you do. rails, and stainless-still clamping
ly. Once the bearing reaches the plates. If ‘only the best’ will do in
guide surface, the cut will proceed How Do They Compare your shop, then you should give it a
predictably. If you make the plunge to Commercial Jigs? look. You can see the Woodpeckers
cut starting over the end cleat, an There are several jigs and gadgets jig in the photo at the bottom of
accidental nick in the guide rail on the market to help woodworkers the previous page.
won’t affect the operation of the jig. make dados with a router. Some To see both of these jigs in action,
Or better yet, start with the router of them work, and others are a bit you can watch a video of them on
plunged just enough for the bearing gimmicky. Woodpeckers makes a my YouTube channel, The Thought-
to contact the rail of the jig. I’m so no-compromises premium dado ful Woodworker. (https://youtu.be/
accustomed to this style of dado jig, jig that I’ve tested in my shop. It YZ-laZihc0) PW — Willie Sandry

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 37
 PROJECT #2218_
Skill Level:
Intermediate
Time: 2 Days
Cost: $75

Kumiko Wall Shelf

PHOTOS BY LOGAN WITTMER

This wall shelf is an elegant, simple way to showcase a special piece

of woodworking —an Asa-no-ha Kumiko panel. By Logan Wittmer
38 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
Inspiration can come from any Break Down the Stock
number of places. Often, I find This wall shelf doesn’t take a ton of
(furniture) pieces in antique stores, stock. I usually try and sell relativity
flea markets, and garage sales. I high-quality material that I’ve cut,
don’t buy them usually — I have but I always end up with a “bargain
too many hobbies the way it is. bin” stack that I like to use where I
What I do instead is take photos can. The walnut for this shelf came
of them. That way, as I’m working from that stack— it had some knots,
on a design, I can reach back into cracks, and pith streaks. But, nothing
my phone’s library and pull design we can’t work around.
elements from these pieces I’ve After laying out all the parts
come across. on my rough stock, I spent a few
Sometimes, however, it isn’t minutes breaking down parts with
a design or furniture piece that a hand saw. There were a few major
inspires. Instead, it’s a technique. defects that I wanted to cut out, so
That’s precisely what happened I made a few strategic cuts at the
when I got a hold of a copy of
Matt Kenney’s book, “The Art of
table saw. Sometimes this means
jointing an edge, ripping off the
THE ART
Kumiko‚” a couple of years back.
Not that I hadn’t been aware of
opposite side, and re-ripping the
jointed edge. Once I had my final OF KUMIKO
Kumiko. In fact, it seems to have width dialed in, I ripped all of the Learn to Make
been the “in” thing the last few stock at the same time, as this keeps
years. What really struck me was all of the parts the exact same width. Beautiful Panels by Hand
the way that Matt laid out the While at the table saw, I also set up
process. It seemed approachable a thin ripping guide to rip a series of AUTHOR : Matt Kenney
and logical, so off into the men- basswood strips for the Kumiko pan- PUBLISHER : Blue Hills Press
tal design library it went. When I el. The thin ripping guide allows you PRICE : $19.95 + shipping
started working on the design for to safely rip consistent-sized strips
a wall shelf, I thought this was the quickly. I ripped a small trailer full, To purchase your copy, visit
store.popularwoodworking.com.
perfect place to incorporate one of which ended up being almost three
these Kumiko panels. times the amount I needed.

1 The wall shelf requires a small amount of stock. I selected a piece of walnut
I had in my collection that was too “gnarly” to sell. Some strategic ripping
removed most of the defects.
2 A crosscut sled is a great way to cut parts to length accurately.
3 While at the table saw, I used a thin rip guide to rip a small semi-trailer full of
strips for the Kumiko panel.
2

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 39
 Kumiko Wall Shelf

Joinery Before Shaping isn’t deep enough — but the dado mark. The sloped dado can quickly
The joinery for this wall shelf is fairly blade at least gives you a start. be cleaned up once you return to
straightforward. The two shelves, After notching the uprights and the the bench. Just square up the end
which are asymmetrical, are joined to shelves, I used a marking knife to with a chisel (Photo 10), and then
one side with a stopped dado and the lay out the rest of the notch and hog out the waste. A router plane
other side with a half-lap. You’ll see cut it at the bandsaw (Photo 5). will help make the end of the dado
what I mean when you check out the Any final paring can be done with the same depth as the dado-blade
drawing on page 43. Before cutting a chisel. cut portion.
either the tapers on the uprights or While the dado blade is loaded
the curves on the shelves, it’s best in the saw, you might as well cut Shape the Parts
to take care of the joinery while the the stopped dado as well. Here, With the joinery cut, you can now
parts are still square. we don’t want to cut all the way start shaping all of the parts. The
After dialing in a dado blade to through the part (the “stopped” uprights get a pair of tapers on
match the stock thickness, I cut the part of the stopped dado). To do them. To make the parts consistent,
half-lap as deep as possible, using this, I mark a “ballpark” mark on I used carpet tape to hold them
the miter gauge with an auxiliary the table saw insert and stop my together and cut the taper at the
fence to guide it. Now, this notch cut when the part touches that bandsaw. Any marks left from the

4 5

4 Cutting the large half-lap in the

sides and shelves can be a trick.
Start with a dado blade set at
maximum height. An 8" dado blade
will cut approximately 2" deep. This
design calls for 2 1/2" deep laps.
5 Extend the half-lap lines by making
a marking knife mark and cut rough
cut them at the bandsaw. You can
then use a chisel in the knife line to
clean up the laps for a perfect fit.
6 On the side opposite each half-
lap, there’s a stopped dado for the
end of the shelf. This can be cut
with the same dado blade. Simply
mark the table saw insert plate with
a stopping point, and stop the cut
when your part kisses the mark.
6

40 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
bandsaw can be cleaned up at the and will conceal the dado. As when One final small detail that’s easier
bench with a handplane. working the half-lap, a sharp knife to do now is to plane a chamfer along
The shelves get a gentle curve on line, careful cutting, and paring to the bottom edge of each shelf. The
the front edge. The radius of each the line with a chisel will yield a chamfer is tapered, however. Instead
is a little different due to the shelf clean, gap-free fit. of being a consistent size, the cham-
lengths, so I just used a flexible There are two final tasks to take fer starts at the upright and gets larg-
straightedge to mark a gentle curve care of on the shelf before assembly. er toward the end of the shelves. This
and cut it to shape at the bandsaw. The first is routing a stopped dado adds a little lightness to the shelf,
Cleaning up this curved shape can for the top. This can be done using a along with a little movement.
be done with sandpaper or a rasp, dado clean-out bit and an MDF tem-
but a sharp block plane will follow plate, like you see in Photo 12. The
the curve pretty well and leave you a resulting dado will have rounded 7 Some wide carpet tape is a quick
nice surface. corners that can be cleaned up with way to gang cut parts.
While at the bandsaw, spend a a chisel. The top itself is simply cut
8 A well-tuned saw will track
moment cutting the notch in the to size, notched like the ends of the
straight and just leave you with only
front edge of each shelf. This will shelves, and a roundover routed on minor cleanup.
mate inside the uprights on the shelf the front edge.

7 8

9 Clean up the curved front of the

shelves with a block plane. Some
gentle rolling strokes will clean up
any saw marks from the band saw.
10-11 Square up the sloped end of
the stopped dado with a chisel and
router plane.
12 A simple MDF template allows you
to rout a stopped dado for the top.
9 10

11 12

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 41
 Kumiko Wall Shelf

Assembly
The glue up on this shelf should go
pretty smoothly if you’ve done your
due diligence as you cut everything.
There is a process that I found works
the best, however. I start by assem-
bling one upright with its corre-
sponding shelf. Spread a little glue
inside the half-lap and slide them
together. There’s a lot of end grain in
that joint, so the glue won’t do much,
but it makes me feel better having
a little bit of glue spread in there.
Once you have the pair of uprights
assembled with the shelves, you can
bring the two halves together. Spread
some glue in the dadoes and slip 13
the shelf ends in place. As you start
bringing everything tight, glue the
top in place as well. Here, I like to
use some parallel clamps to spread
the clamping pressure, especially
since the end of the shelf is narrower
than the upright. You can see this in
Photo 13.
As the glue cures, you can con-
template whether you want to add
some form of a decorative panel or
not. As I mentioned earlier, and as
you could surmise from the lead
photo, I included a Kumiko panel.
To house the panel, I decided a rab-
bet along the back was appropriate. 14
A rabbeting bit in the router table
makes quick, albeit messy, work of
this. As with any routing operation 13 Assemble the shelf. Some long parallel clamps apply even clamping pressure.
like this, a little chisel work will 14 After assembly, rout a rabbet for the Kumiko panel.
square up the corners.

Little Drawer wood and router bit is that it has a sides get a dado routed in them. This
The opening between the shelves tendency to fuzz a little bit. It just dado grabs the short tongue on the
begged to have a drawer in it. It’s means a little extra time to sand and drawer front and locks everything to-
a small drawer, sure. However, I’m smooth out the mating joints before gether. Lastly, rout a groove along the
sure we all have those odds and ends applying glue. bottom edge for a plywood bottom.
that could fit well in there. Because To create the locking rabbet, we’ll It’s best to try out a sample piece
I had already milled up a bunch of first need to rout a groove in the ends to dial everything in. Once you do,
basswood for the Kumiko, it seemed of the drawer front. The bit needs to this is a great, quick-to-make joint
appropriate to make the drawer out be centered on the drawer stock, and that looks good and is strong. With
of this lightweight wood as well. set to the height of the drawer sides. that said, these small parts are
The joinery I chose to use on this You can see this in Photo 15. delicate, so be careful with the joint
drawer is a simple locking rabbet Next, the bit is lowered a little, until it’s glued together.
joint. With the thin stock, you can and the inside tongue on the front is As you probably noticed in the
easily rout all of this joinery with a nipped in half. This leaves one long main photo, I chose to paint the
small straight bit at the router table. tongue and one short tongue on each drawer front to match the panel be-
My only complaint about the bass- end (Photo 16). Finally, the drawer hind the Kumiko (more on that in a

42 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 ■ Kumiko Wall Shelf
1/2" B

A A
15 1/2"
C
15
D

3 3/4"

111/4"

FRONT 6 3/4"
16 VIEW

5"

20"
15"
1/2" C B D 2"
5"

A A
TOP VIEW
3/4"

NOTE: All dadoes

17 are 3/4" wide by
3/ 8" deep.
16 3/4"
17"
3/8"
15 Groove the end of the front.
16 With the same set up, nip off one
of the tongues. SIDE
VIEW
17 Finally, rout the dado in the
sides. This same setup can be used
for the bottom groove. 4 1/2"
5"

2 1/2"
Cutlist
6 3/4"
No. Items Dimensions (in)
T W L
2 A Sides /
34 5 28 3/4
2"
1 B Top/ bottom 3/4 1 7/8 5 3/4
1 C Top shelf 3/4 5 15
1 D Bottom shelf 3/4 5 20
2 E Drawer F/B 3/ 8 3 5/8 4 7/8
2 F Drawer sides 3/ 8 3 5/8 4 1/16
1 G Drawer bottom 1/ 8 3 3/4 3 3/4 BACK
- H Kumiko strips 1/ 8 3/8 - VIEW
1 I Back panel 1/ 8 5 3/4 16 3/4

MATERIALS: The shelf is walnut, while the

Kumiko and drawer parts are basswood.
 Kumiko Wall Shelf

minute). I feel like it’s a bit easier to changes, so I planed it down with a The Kumiko panel is made of
paint the drawer front before gluing handplane for a good, suction type basswood strips. The framework
up. Basswood tends to fuzz a little fit. A simple style drawer pull looks (horizontal and vertical pieces) are
bit, so when painting it, I use shellac best on this shelf, I think (my wife, half-lapped together at the table
as a sealer. Not only does it keep however, thought it looks a little too saw. There are several traditional
any grain from raising, but it also plain). Pick a style you like, but ask designs that you can use in the
provides a good “primer” coat and your significant other's opinion first! Kumiko. The one shown here (and
allows you to get a smooth surface. The one I added is a simple little wal- on the front of Matt’s book) is the
After glue up, you can spend a few nut pull that I turned at the lathe. Asa-no-ha, or hemp leaf pattern.
minutes fitting the drawer. Basswood Before we tackle the Kumiko The various diagonal pieces that
doesn’t move much with humidity panel, let’s talk about hanging it. Be- make up the hemp leaf pattern need
cause of the asymmetrical design, I to be accurately cut and mitered to
used a pair of keyhole hangers rout- fit into place. To do this, you use a
ed into one upright. This provides set of mitered guide blocks, as you
two attachment points, and I just see in Photo 19 and 21.
make sure to drive the mounting The guide blocks have an adjust-
screws into studs. able stop recessed into them. This
allows you to precisely dial in the
Kumiko Panel length of the part, and the angled
The defining feature of this wall face of the block gives you a refer-
shelf is the Kumiko panel. While ence surface for your chisel to ride
the process of creating the Kumiko against as you pare the basswood
panel isn’t difficult, it does take to the proper angle and length. A
18 some careful setup. Matt’s book sharp, wide chisel (I use my Barr
does a fantastic job of explaining the framing chisel for this — you can
18 Carefully glue up the drawer. process in depth, and if this is some- read more about it on page 22)
The small size of the joinery makes thing you’re interested in, I suggest makes the process go smoothly.
this a very delicate process due you pick up a copy for the entire The guide blocks are easy to
to the short grain. If you’re going process. (Full disclosure— “The Art make, but if you want to purchase
to paint the drawer front like i did, of Kumiko” is available for purchase them, Matt and others sell pre-made
I suggest doing so before you
on PopularWoodworking.com.) What blocks. While the process seems
assemble the drawer.
I’ll give you here is a brief synopsis. tedious, after dialing everything in,
it goes quickly. The panel you see in
Photo 21 took me about four hours

■ Hemp Leaf Panel to put together. It takes a very small

amount of material and a bit more
time, but it yields some impressive
FRAMEWORK
results. To be honest, I picked up a
DIAGONAL PIECE
HINGE PIECE
NOTE: Kumiko strips are 1/8" x 3/8" basswood. set of Matt’s guide blocks and milled
LOCKING PIECE a bunch of the basswood strips, as
I thought these panels would be a
very good project to throw in a tote
and bring with me as I'm camping.
After completing the panel, I
installed it into the rabbet on the
DIAGONAL PIECE back of the shelf. To add a little bit
(x4)
of contrast to the Kumiko, I added
a thin panel of painted plywood be-
hind the Kumiko. The entire assem-
bly (Kumiko and plywood panel) are
HINGE PIECE LOCKING PIECE held in place with a series of brass
(x16) (x8)
toggles installed on the edges of the
uprights. Then, the shelf is hung up
with screws into studs.
PW — Logan Wittmer

44 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
19 20

19 The Kumiko panel consists of 20 The subtle beauty behind a

21 Creating the Kumiko panel is
small parts that are accurately mi- Kumiko panel is the fact that the
a zen-like practice. It takes a little
tered to fit together with only tension entire thing is assembled without
getting used to, but Matt Kenney’s
holding them in place. A sharp chisel glue. Once the pieces are fit, a final
book “The Art of Kumiko” is the
(wide Barr framing chisel) and guide locking piece tensions the entire
perfect guide for this fun technique.
blocks help achieve this precise fit. quadrant and holds it in place.

21

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 45
 Carved Rim Bowl

PROJECT #2219_
Skill Level:
Intermediate
Time: 1 Day
Cost: $75

PHOTOS BY LOGAN WITTMER

A little bit of carving

and gilding on the rim
of this bowl transforms
it from a nice piece to
an extraordinary one.
By Jimmy Clewes

46 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
A step away from your ordinary
bowl, this cherry bowl with a carved
rim is subtle yet powerful. The sim-
ple ogee curve on the bottom of the
bowl makes it lovely to hold, and the
carved and gilded rim not only catch-
es the light, but it also catches your
eye. The best part of all, however, is
that it's a simple bowl to make.
First, find a good piece of cherry
for your blank that is approximately
a 12" diameter x 4" thick square.
Cherry is a good choice of wood for
this project, as it is often favored
by carvers throughout history for
its closed, even grain. Kiln dried
is the best here. After finding the
center and using a compass to scribe
a circle, move to the bandsaw to
cut the circle out. This removes a
lot of waste wood initially. I like to 1 2
save the corner pieces which could
be used to turn small projects like
bottle stoppers.

Prepare to Turn
To begin turning, mount the blank
on a screw chuck or a faceplate if
you prefer. When using a screw
chuck, make sure that the chuck is
tight against the face of the blank. If
it’s not, you may experience some
vibration in the blank, which would
reflect in and give a less smooth
quality of cut. Begin with a 1/2" long
grind bowl gouge to true up the
outside of the blank. This will help
to balance and true up the piece.
If the surface is not smooth after
the cut, the bevel is not “floating”
behind the cutting edge and is not in
contact with the wood. You would
be effectively cutting with the point
or tip of the tool, a common mistake
that practice will improve!
After the outside of the blank has
been trued up, we will now clean up 3
the bottom of the blank using the
long grind on the wing of your 1/ 2"
gouge to “draw” cut and clean up 1 Start by mounting the kiln-dried blank on a screw chuck.
the base face. This is a really nice 2 Use a push cut to true up the outside edge of the blank. By floating the bevel
peeling cut with a lot of control as along the cut, you’ll end up with a smooth surface.
you are pulling or drawing the tool 3 Use a series of draw cuts to face off the blank. This removes any high spots
towards you just as you would with and helps balance the blank better.
Japanese saws and planes.

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 47
 Carved Rim Bowl

Turning the Foot provided. I use a Vicmarc 100 chuck fashion, making sure that the right
Once this surface is true, we can with the 90mm jaws. The foot is, leg matches the scribed line. If not,
then mark out the diameter of the therefore, approximately a third of be sure to adjust it until it does.
foot on which to hold the piece the diameter, which looks aesthet- Be mindful not to let the right leg
when it is reversed and ready to be ically proportionate, particularly touch the wood as it could flick out
hollowed. From a design point of for the ogee curve that I am going of your grip!
view, I decided to turn a larger foot to turn for the outside shape of the Then, using a 1/ 8" standard part-
and therefore used a larger set of bowl. To mark the foot, I use a set ing tool, I make a cut 1/4" deep to
jaws which are available for most of dividers and scribe a line with the the left of the scribed line to define
chucks along with the standard jaws left leg of the dividers in a trailing the foot. Going back to the long

4 5 6

4 Set your dividers to match the size jaws that you have for your scroll chuck,
and mark the blank for a tenon.
5 Use a parting tool to define the outside edge of the tenon. A couple of
plunges, side-by-side, give you room to work.
6 Slightly hollow the tenon, as you’ll be using the tenon as a foot later.
7 Remove the outside waste with a series of draw cuts. You’re looking to level
the surface outside of the tenon.
8 Now, form the dovetail on the outside of the tenon. I do this with a parting
7 tool ground at a slight angle (to match the jaws of my chuck).

48 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
grind bowl gouge, I then use a push
cut to slightly hollow out the foot.
The reason for this is that even if
the wood moves slightly after turn-
ing the bowl, it will still sit evenly
on at least 3 points if undercut
and not rock when placed on a flat
surface. Again, using a draw cut
as I did to true the base, I remove
what is effectively waste wood from
the foot to the outside edge. You
should, at this stage, end up with a
flat surface with the foot sitting 1/4"
proud. It would be easy and prefer-
able now to cut the slight dovetail
on the foot to match the dovetail
on your chuck. I use a 1/8" parting
tool sharpened to the angle of the
dovetail required. A skew would do
the same thing as well.
9 10
Onto the Ogee Curve
The ogee curve can be formed using
9 Start laying out the ogee. First, divide the bottom into thirds, and make a mark.
simple geometry. To start, I divide
it into thirds from the outside edge 10 Cut a large bevel, connecting your rim mark and the mark you made at the
of the foot to the outside edge of the bottom of the bowl blank.
bowl. I then scribe a line approx- 11-14 After connecting the rim and bottom mark to form a bevel, you can start
imately 3/ 8" from the face of the to form a curve under the bowl. Push cuts, from the rim to the foot, are against
bowl. This will not be the final thick- the grain but actually allow you to watch the curve being formed, ensuring that
ness of the rim but allows a little it's smooth and even.

11 12

13 14

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 49
 Carved Rim Bowl

extra wood in case you are slightly

off with the next few cuts. Starting
from the bottom corner edge of
the blank, use a 1/ 2" bowl gouge to
draw cut a chamfer between the two
marked lines.
After producing the chamfer, I
then cut the initial curve of the ogee
between the same two scribed lines.
This will be done using a push cut
with the bevel “floating” behind
the cut for the same control as I did
when truing up the outside edge of
the blank. You may notice that I am
cutting against the grain as the grain 15
on the bowl runs from the foot to
the outside edge of the bowl. This
may seem strange but creating the
bevel in this way allows for a more
accurate curve as I can look at the
profile and see the curve as I am cut-
ting. I will deal with any torn grain
later when refining the finished ogee
curve with a shear cut.
So now that I have a curve be-
tween the two reference lines, I can
mark the halfway point between the
left edge of the foot and the outside
edge of the bowl. I then use a draw
cut with the grain to complete the
basic ogee curve. The ogee curve is 16
basically a 50/50 curve where one
curve should look the same as the
15 Divide the current diameter in half, and make another pencil mark.
other but only the opposite way.
The two curves will blend at the 16 Now, to form the ogee, blend the two curves together, meeting right where
inflection point, which is where the your pencil line was.
halfway mark is scribed. This is very
similar to a sine wave.
The next step is to deal with any
torn grain from the initial first cut
against the grain. I employ a shear
■ Carved Rim Bowl
cut with the wing of the bowl gouge 6"
and draw the tool towards me but 11/2"
at a much more shear angle. In the
right position, this cut will produce
“angel hair” fine shavings and leave
a finish on the wood that is ready
for sanding and no longer has torn
2 3/4"
grain.

Sanding & Finishing

I like to sand and finish the outside
of the bowl before I reverse chuck 1/4"

it and start work on the rim and

hollow out the bowl. It makes sense

50 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
to finish the bowl in order rather turn the lathe back on and apply a is important that the foot or tenon
than having to go back and finish little pressure to help dry and bur- is cut accurately to allow for this. If
later. I prefer to use the 2" Skilton nish the oil on the surface. the piece is running out of true and
brand of sanding pads, which are you start to turn it, you would end up
great quality and have just the right Carved Rim with a different rim and wall thick-
amount of firmness in the pad for After removing the blank from the ness throughout the bowl.
efficient sanding. They are also screw chuck, mount it in the scroll After the blank is mounted in the
tapered which helps when sanding chuck and make sure that you tighten chuck and is running true, I use a
an undercut rim as they will form a the chuck securely on the foot and draw or pull cut and clean up the face
soft curve. The 2" sanding discs I use that the piece is fully in the jaws. It of the bowl until it runs true as well. I
are available from TurningWood.com.
(Check out the Top-Notch Bowl
Turning article in the August 2022
Popular Woodworking’s for more
information on these pads.)
When sanding, I like to start with
a 180-grit and finish with a 400-grit
disc on a power drill and go through
the grits in order. Be sure to check
that there is no torn or disturbed
grain after the first grit. If there is, it
will be on the area of the end grain
on the bowl blank and will show
up as lighter lines on the surface.
After making sure there is no torn or
disturbed grain on the surface, con-
tinue through the grits. With each
grit, you are making the “scratches” 17 18
smaller and smaller.
My preferred finish for most of
my woodturnings is very simple.
With the piece stationary, I seal the
wood first using a thinned-down
mixture of 75% Zinsser’s clear coat
shellac and 25% denatured alcohol.
This thinned-down mix will pene-
trate further into the wood, and any
woodworker will tell you it’s better
to apply several thin coats and built
it up as opposed to a thick syrupy
finish and need to sand it back! I pay
particular attention to the end grain
as the finish tends to soak in a little
more than the long grain.
When the sealer is completely
dry, I turn on the lathe and remove 19 20
any slightly raised grain using a fine
ScrotchBrite type of plastic abrasive
pad. Then, I apply a light coat of 17 Sand the bottom of the bowl. Use a soft sanding pad, and sand clear up
Watco “Natural” Danish oil which through 400-grit sandpaper.
will pop the grain and give the wood 18-19 Seal the bottom of the bowl with sanding sealer (shellac), and then
a beautiful luster. After allowing it finish it with a coat of natural color Danish oil.
to soak in for several minutes, come 20 After turning the blank around, true up the surface with a series of draw
back and wipe off any excess oil with cuts, to give you a clean starting surface.
a clean piece of paper towel. Next,

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 51
 Carved Rim Bowl

21 22

23 24

then turn the rim to about 3/16" thick, ments. To carve the rim, I am using After carving, I use a rotary sand-
which allows enough thickness to the reciprocal carving attachment ing disc to remove any torn grain,
take into account the carving I will be with a Flexcut “V” shaped carving especially on the end grain. Again,
doing. Using an aesthetic measure- blade inserted. I then made a series choosing cherry for the bowl, which
ment, I scribed a pencil line to mark of radial cuts from the inside to carves beautifully, greatly reduces
the width of the rim which is to be the outside of the rim of the bowl. this from happening. Next, you
carved. I prefer to carve the rim first A good tip is to divide the rim into need to seal the carved area in
and then hollow out the bowl as this four quarters so the cuts remain order for the adhesive for the metal
greatly reduces the risk of tear out on radial and won’t wander to one
the inner edge of the bowl. side, which would form a spiral.
21-23 After locking the spindle,
It’s time to start carving. I use (You could use the spiral cuts as use a Foredom power carver to
the Foredom range of power carving a different design in the future.) carve lines in the rim. A sharp
equipment. In my opinion, it's top- Remember, the cuts for this rim are chisel cuts clean, but any fuzz can
notch, and it also has a reciprocal randomly organized if that makes be cleaned up with a sanding flap
carving attachment in addition to sense. If they are slightly differ- in the Foredom.
the standard rotating head that I ent widths or cross over a little, it 24 Seal the rim with a few coats of
use for sanding and grinding ... not doesn’t matter as it will not affect spray lacquer.
to mention a host of other attach- the end visual result.

52 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
leaf to adhere. I use a can of stain of the bowl. I prefer to turn a bowl
spray lacquer to seal the surface. in stages depending on how large it
This will allow the adhesive to cure is, a deeper bowl may take 3 stages
on the surface and not soak into of hollowing, again because of the
the grain of the wood. support. When you start to hollow a
bowl, you are releasing tension and
Hollowing the Bowl stress. If you take too much of the
After the carving of the rim is com- waste wood in one go, the wood can
pleted and sanded, if necessary, I move, making it more difficult to pick
then use a 1/ 8" parting tool to make a up a finishing cut. That’s why I only
cut about 1/4" deep to define the rim hollowing to half the depth of the
of the bowl. This cut gives you a flat bowl is simply for more support.
support to place the bevel for control I turn the first part of the inside
when hollowing from the rim of the curve to the correct thickness and 25
bowl into the center of the blank. then return to the middle and hol-
Using my 1/2" bowl gouge and push low to the final thickness, blending
cuts, I proceed to hollow from the the outer curve of the bowl into the 25 Define the rim of the bowl using
center of the bowl to about half the curve flowing to the bottom of the a parting tool, cutting at a slight
angle to match the inside curve.
depth and work towards the outside bowl. Watch out for a depression or

26 27 28

26-29 Hollow out the inside of the

bowl with your tool of choice. A
swept back grind on a bowl gouge
works well here, but you can switch
over to a traditional grind or a
bottom bowl gouge to help get an
even, consistent curve along the
inside bottom of the bowl.
30 After sanding back through 400
grit, apply the same finish you did
on the outside — sanding sealer
followed by a couple of coats of
natural colored Danish oil. Try to not
get any oil on the rim, as that will
interfere with the next step.
29 30

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 53
 Carved Rim Bowl

a hump in the middle of the bowl, a

common error. After hollowing the
bowl, I sand and finish the inside
of the bowl as I did on the outside
minus the rim as this is where we
will apply the adhesive and metal
leaf into the carving.

Applying Metal Leaf

For the metal leaf, I am using the
brand called “Cosmic shimmer,”
which I purchased off Amazon.
There are several color variations
of flake available to choose from.
I first applied the adhesive or 32
size for the metal leaf using a soft
bristle brush. When the adhesive is
applied, it is milky white in color.
When it turns clear, it is ready for
the metal leaf to be applied. It only
takes a few minutes to go from
milky white to clear.
Applying the leaf is very simple,
just take a pinch at a time and cover
the carved area. Then using a soft
paper tissue, push the leaf into the
carving. Any excess leaf can then
be removed using a soft bristle
brush or a new toothbrush (don’t
get caught using your significant
others!). The excess leaf can be col- 33

31 With an artists brush, apply a

thin coat of gilding size (glue) to the
lines on the rim of the bowl.

34

32 Set the chuck and bowl on the lathe bed, and crumble the leaf of your
choice along the set-up size. Here, I’m using a variegated (multi-colored) leaf.
33 After the rim has been covered, use a soft tissue to push down the leaf into
the size.
34 Grab an old toothbrush and flake away loose the leaf.
31

54 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
35 36

37 38
lected and used again in the future.
The effect I am looking for is to 35 Give it a final once-over with the tissue to make sure everything’s stuck.
have the metal leaf just in the carved 36 Gently sand away excess leaf and curve the rim, causing the carved cuts to
area, so in order to get that effect, feather out.
I simply sand away the leaf on the
37 The look you’re going for is a feathered, leafed cut in the rim.
surface with 400-grit sandpaper. Any
dust that is on the surface of the metal 38 Seal the leaf and rim with spray lacquer.
leaf can be blown away using an air
compressor or wiped away gently
using a paper tissue. All that is left With this knowledge, you can ent from others. Also, with a little
now is a great finish for the carved rim use this relatively simple technique imagination, this technique can be
and leaf. I recommend a spray lacquer, to embellish the rim of your bowls applied to flat work also. Happy
whichever sheen you prefer. and make them just a little differ- Turning. PW — Jimmy Clewes

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 55
 In The Shop Don’t let cracks and knots get you
down. There’s plenty of ways to make
Working with rough spots into functional and
interesting features of a piece.
Defects in Wood By Rob Petrie

I have been charitably described as After taping up the piece, the Wood Filler
“frugal” before. I’ll collect any free defect can be filled. Mix the epoxy Using a filler is one of the cheapest
wood I come by, no matter the con- with the hardener for about a and easiest options for fixing defects.
dition, and I won’t let an inch go to minute to a minute and a half. Once While a filler isn’t going to perfectly
waste if I can help it. Naturally, this thoroughly mixed, pour the epoxy match the wood around it, choosing
mentality means that sometimes I into any voids. the right kind goes a long way toward
need to get creative with my boards. The goal is to seal and reinforce making it blend in.
However, as you’ll see in the follow- the defect by filling all the nooks
ing pages, they’re reasons to save a and crannies. Overfill the voids SUPER GLUE: Glue by itself is
piece with a defect, even if you may slightly, as the epoxy will keep the simplest choice of filler. A clear,
not share my frugality. seeping deeper until it cures. When thick-viscosity super glue is a great
working with knots, start at one option for small cracks and knots,
Epoxy side and slowly work across. If (and filling them in without affecting the
The most inconspicuous way to when) bubbles form, a heat gun can color. On the other hand, colored
PHOTOS BY LOGAN WITTMER & ROB PETRIE

deal with many defects is epoxy. get rid of them. Gently heating up super glues are available as well to
Epoxy creates a strong, translucent the surface pops any bubbles. better match the wood. For instance,
filler for cracks, checks, and knots Once the epoxy seeps in and black super glue fills dark knots
alike. While it takes a little care to cures, you may find that some spots without drawing the eye.
get a smooth surface, the process is need to be filled in more. Sand down When using super glue, first coat
relatively easy overall. the first layer to reveal any air pock- the surrounding wood with shellac. If
First tape over all holes and ets that might have formed, then super glue seeps into bare wood, that
cracks on the opposite face from the apply a second layer of epoxy. After spot will have trouble taking stain
defect. There’s no telling how far the second coat cures, sand it to a and finish. A coat of shellac seals the
some holes go. high grit for a glass-smooth surface. wood and can be sanded off after.

56 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Defects in Wood

EPOXY:
1 Apply tape to cover the hole (or
holes) on one side of the piece.
2 Pour in the epoxy/hardener mix,
allowing it to seep into the knot.
3 Once the epoxy cures, sand it
flush with the wood surface. High
grits leave a smooth epoxy surface.

1 4

COLORED SUPER GLUE:

4 Super glue comes in a variety of colors and viscosities, such as these
from Starbond. Thick glue works well on its own, while thin is useful for
adhering some of the fillers discussed later on.
5 After shellacing around the defect, a thick, dark glue can be used to fill
the defect. I used black glue to blend with the wood.
6 A spritz of accelerator will cure the glue instantly. If the glue sinks below
the surface of the wood, apply more layers until it can be sanded flush.

3 5 6

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 57
 Defects in Wood

WOOD PUTTY: An easy fix for short SYNTHETIC SAND: Sometimes, GLUE & GROUNDS: Using super
surface checks is wood putty (filler). the best way to hide something is in glue with coffee grounds is a subtle
It masks small defects well, but plain sight. If you’re looking to draw (and low-cost) way of filling larger
personally, I don’t care for the look attention to a defect rather than cracks. Shellac around the defect
on larger cracks, as it’s hard to match away from it, Synthetic Sand (wood- first to prevent the super glue from
the rest of the wood when finishing. worldtx.com) makes for a bold look. staining the surrounding wood.
Wood putty doesn’t have to be Available in a wide array of colors, it After the shellac dries, fill the defect
store-bought. To make your own can be mixed with a thin super glue with grounds. A thin super glue does
filler, apply hide glue around the and used to fill cracks and checks a good job of adhering the grounds.
defect, then sand it with a sacrificial like any other wood filler. I find it As with the Synthetic Sand, it may
piece of sandpaper until a paste best to fill voids up by building sev- take a few layers to fill everything
forms. Pack the paste into the defect eral layers. Follow the steps below, in. Once dry and sanded down, the
and sand it down once dry. The filler packing in the filler and sanding in grounds create a smooth, dark
will match exactly, and it only costs between layers until the surface can surface that doesn’t draw too much
one old piece of sandpaper. be sanded flush to the wood. attention to itself.

SYNTHETIC SANDS:
7 After filling the crack or check with Synthetic Sand, apply a few drops of thin
super glue to adhere the filler in place.
8 Pack the sand and glue in, tamping it down to fill the voids. Any air pockets
that form now will show up after sanding down the dried filler.
9 Accelerator will sometimes cause the glue and Synthetic Sand to bubble, but
these bubbles are easy to sand down.
10 Sand the filler flush with the wood. If this reveals any air pockets, apply
more filler and glue until you’re left with a smooth, even surface.

7 8 9

10

58 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
G
11 12 13

SUPER GLUE WITH

COFFEE GROUNDS:
11 A layer of shellac prevents the
super glue from staining the wood.
12 Pack the defect with coffee
grounds and tamp them in place.
13 A thin super glue seeps between
the grounds to cement them in.
14 Starbond’s accelerator keeps
the super glue from whitening.
15 Once cured, the grounds can be
sanded flush to the wood’s surface.
14 15

Patching
Some defects are too large to be
simply filled in. In these cases,
patching the defect with an inlay
can be the best option. While patch-
ing is the most conspicuous choice,
it offers a chance to use different
shapes, colors, and woods together.
Alternatively, a cleverly made patch
can blend in shockingly well.
Start by determining the shape
of the patch, then create a template
to help you rout out that shape in
the piece. Double-sided tape makes 16
it easy to stick a template to your
piece, then a plunge router with a itself makes for easy removal.
bushing and straight bit can be used When creating the inlays to match PATCHING:
to remove the waste. the template, it’s best to leave them 16 Matching color and grain goes a
On round pieces, such as a turned a little thicker, as they can always be long way to help a patch blend in.
bowl, a template won’t stay taped sanded or planed down later. Once
while you rout. Hot glue does a great an inlay is shaped, coat its edges in
job of keeping a template attached. glue and tap it in place. ouflaged, like what you see above.
Gluing the template to a bit of paint- Patches vary widely in style to suit Others provide wild contrasts of
er’s tape rather than to the piece all tastes. Some are relatively cam- colors, woods, and shapes.

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 59
 Defects in Wood

Chipout
As many reading this may know,
chipout can be quite troublesome
in highly figured grains, especially
when jointing or planing. To help
ease the rough look of chipped
out sections, the defect can be
smoothed and disguised to look
like the rest of the wood.
Start by scooping out the afflicted
area with a ballpoint Dremel. Use
the Dremel to shear the rough, torn
fibers into long divot. 17 18
Next apply accelerator, then put
a few droplets of clear super glue
on the chipped section of the piece.
Once the glue cures, it can be sand-
ed flush with the wood.
This method works best when
the piece can be kept mostly out
of view, such as on the inside of a
drawer or cabinet. It doesn’t mask
the chipout entirely, but like many
fixes we’ve discussed, it does help
prevent the chipped area from
catching the eye. 19

CHIPOUT:
17 Chipout is a common issue in figured grains, resulting
in an unsightly rough patch on the face of a piece.
18 Dish-out the torn fibers with a ballpoint Dremel tool.
19 Start with a spritz of accelerator to help quickly build
the first drops of super glue.
20 Apply clear super glue over the chipped area.
21 Once dry, the glued section can be sanded down.
22 The super glue gives the defect a “fisheye” look that
blends in with the figuring in the grain once dry.
20

21 22

60 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Maximum Strength
Maximum Control

Get Control with the Strongest,

Stiffest Fret Saws on Earth
Available in
Titanium or Aluminum
www.knewconcepts.com

FULL PROJECT PLANS INSIDE Build Outdoor Furniture to Last

J UN E 2 0 1 9 | # 2 4 6

MAKE YOUR OWN

WINDSOR CHAIR US $7.99

WEEKEND PROJECT BUILD IT 06

Walnut Table Japanese

With Router Inlay Writing Box 0 71486 01355 6

PopularWoodworking.com/subscribe

700 + SIGN UP AT
videos.popular.
WOODWORKING woodworking.com
VIDEOS.
It’s a Netflix for makers, where you can binge on
projects, techniques and pro tips to advance your craft.
• Full-builds from Frank Klausz, Jeff Miller, Alf Sharp, and more

24/ 7 leading woodworkers

• 30 + seasons of the Woodwright’s Shop with Roy Underhill
• 60 + episodes of I Can Do That!
ACCESS. • Plans and sketches to build the projects yourself

Above prices are for 100’ quantities of kiln UPS Specials

STEVE WALL LUMBER CO. dried rough lumber sold by the Bd. Ft. FOB
Mayodan, NC. Call for quantity discounts.
Above prices are 15 bd. ft.
bundles of clear kiln dried
Quality Hardwoods and Plywood For The Other sizes and grades available. lumber 3”-10” wide • 3’-4’ long
(Random widths & lengths)
Craftsmen and Educational Institutions SEE OUR CATALOG Surfaced 2 sides or rough.
ON THE WEB! Delivered Ground prepaid in
the Continental U.S.
Alder.............................No longer Available
Ash................................4/4 Select 4.00 .......... $104.00 OLIVER MACHINERY DEALER
Basswood .....................4/4 Select 3.25 .......... $ 95.00
Birch .............................4/4 Select 3.95 .......... $108.00 HARDWOOD PLYWOOD
Butternut .......................4/4 1C 3.65 .......... $ 98.00 CUSTOM RAISED PANEL DOORS
Cedar (Aromatic Red) ...4/4 1C+Btr. 3.35 .......... $ 95.00
Cherry ...........................4/4 Select 4.90 .......... $118.00 CUSTOM PLANK HARDWOOD FLOORING
Cypress .........................4/4 Select 4.60 .......... $118.00 THIN CRAFTWOOD
Hickory - Pecan.............4/4 Select 3.00 .......... $108.00 EXOTIC LUMBER
Mahogany (African) ......4/4 Select 5.50 .......... $125.00
Maple (Hard) .................4/4 Select 5.00 .......... $125.00
Maple (Soft) ..................4/4 Select 4.85 .......... $119.00
Oak (Red) ......................4/4 Select 3.15 .......... $101.00
STEVE H. WALL LUMBER CO.
BOX 287, MAYODAN, NC 27027
Oak (White) ...................4/4 Select 7.00 .......... $150.00 336-427-0637 • 1-800-633-4062 • FAX: 336-427-7588
White Oak (Quarter Sawn) 4/4 8.95 ........... $180.00 Email: woodsales@walllumber.com
Poplar ...........................4/4 Select 2.85 .......... $ 95.00 Website: www.walllumber.com
Walnut...........................4/4 Select 8.25 .......... $165.00
White Pine (Soft) ..........4/4 F.G. 2.00 .......... $ 79.00 Send $1.00 For Lumber Catalog
Yellow Pine (Soft) .........4/4 Clear 2.20 .......... $ 88.00 Prices Subject to Change Without Notice
 Defects in Wood

Spalting
Spalted wood can contain some
of the most fascinating natural
figures. As fungi invades the wood,
the colonies bleach and dye it to
a uniquely gorgeous design. The
trouble is that fungi also soften
the wood, posing a problem for
us woodworkers. Luckily, we have
solutions available.
The first step is to have a dry
piece. If you’ve bought dried wood
with spalting already on it, then
you’re good to go. If you’re working
with greener timber, however, you’ll
need to stop the mold before you
can strengthen the wood. Fungi
won’t survive in wood with less than
a 20% moisture content. Once the
wood is sufficiently dry, the colonies
will die out. 23
After you’ve got a dry piece, the
next step is to stabilize it. Even if
it’s not visible, the mold will have SPALTING:
eaten away at the wood fibers.
These fibers need to be reinforced 23 Wood fortifiers, such as Polycryl,
make punky, spalted wood useable.
by something that can seep in and
Many must be diluted with water
harden. There are two answers before use. It’s best to start with a
here, and which one you should go weak solution to ensure the fortifier
with depends on the severity of the penetrates deep in the wood.
spalting on the wood.
For smaller areas, ones that only
cover a portion of the wood and entirely coated, cover it in plastic
haven’t softened much, super glue is to prevent the solution from drying
(again) a great choice. Apply a little out while it seeps into the piece.
to the spalted area and wait for it to After it has soaked in, make a full-
seep in. Depending on how much strength mix and coat the piece
damage was done within the wood, again, setting it under it plastic
it may take a few coats to seep in afterward to absorb the fortifier.
fully. Once dry, the glued area can Repeat this process until the wood
be sanded down. no longer absorbs any solution. At
For particularly punky pieces, a that point the piece has taken on
wood fortifier (or wood hardener) is all the hardener it can, and it’s time
the best choice, such as the Polycryl to let it dry without plastic. Once
you see in the photo at right. These dry, you’ll be left with a stable,
fortifiers can be applied by soaking workable piece.
a piece or by brushing it on, but While these methods work to
brushing is my usual method, as strengthen the spalting, keep in
I rarely work with pieces small mind that you’ll need to finish the
enough for soaking to be effective. piece with a film-forming finish,
When brushing a hardener on, such as lacquer or polyurethane.
make an extra-diluted solution Because the cells have all been filled
for the first coat. This allows the with the fortifier, they won’t take a
solution to soak deeper into the finish that needs to penetrate the
wood. Once the wood has been wood. PW - Rob Petrie

62 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Classified & Woodworker’s Marketplace

Kits and Plans Shellac.net Wood Finish Supply

Mer i tIndustr i es.com
WE HAVE A WIDE VARIETY
PANEL SAW of plans, projects, advice,
back issues and all things wood-
working in our online store. Authorized Mohawk & H .Behlen Distributor
Products for Traditional Furniture Finishing,
Please visit our website at Touch-Up, Repair & Maintenance
PopularWoodworking.com/Shop home of: www.mohawkfinishsupply.com
BehlenSupply.com - 877-245-5611

Schools and
©2018 Cruz Bay Publishi
Instruction Bob Van Dyke – Director
ng, Inc. an Active Interest
Media Company

JOHN C. CAMPBELL FOLK

SCHOOL, Brasstown, NC. Courses
Featuring hands-on classes
for all skill levels. Week and week- for all skill levels taught
end classes year-round, taught by nationally known
by nationally known instructors. craftsmen including
Steve Latta, Will Neptune,
Friendly, supportive environment. Peter Follansbee, Mary May,
Comfortable, on-campus housing. Mike Pekovich and more!
Delicious meals served three 6SHQFHU6W0DQFKHVWHU&7‡Þ

6SHQF
6SHQFHU
HU6W
6W
0
0
0DQF
DQFK
KHVWHU&7
‡Þ


www.schoolofwoodworking.com
times a day. (800) 365-5724 or
www.folkschool.org

Shop Equipment
and Supplies
BLOXYGEN SAVES LEFTOVER
FINISHES – Preserve expensive
varnish, paint. (888) 810-8311 or
www.bloxygen.com

SEAT WEAVING SUPPLIES.

Chair cane and splint, Shaker
tape, fiber and natural rush.
Complete line of basketweaving
supplies. Royalwood Ltd.,
DOWNLOAD & PRINT 517-WW Woodville Rd, Mansfield,
YOUR PLANS AT OH 44907. (800) 526-1630 or
HOME! www.royalwoodltd.com
Hundreds to choose from
Classified rate is $6.00 per word, 15-word
for home, gift and shop! minimum. Order must be accompanied by
payment; ads are non-commissionable.
Send to: Popular Woodworking Magazine,
PLUS VIDEO PLANS! 5225 Joerns Dr, Suite 2, Stevens Point,
Wisconsin, 54481 or Jack Christiansen,
Each video plan includes jchristiansen@aimmedia.com or
a 26-minute video and (847) 724-5633
a detailed printable plan.

Go to:
POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 63
WoodsmithPlans.com
 Meet the Masters

David J. Marks
Internationally acclaimed furniture designer, craftsman, turner, and
sculptor, David J. Marks has traveled the world teaching his craft.

The year is 2002, and David J. a four-time best in show at the

Marks is hosting his first episode “Artistry in Wood” (Sonoma County,
of the show “Woodworks” which is CA), and first place (Wood Turning/
making its debut on HGTV and DIY Embellished Mixed Media) at the
Network. Over the course of the next prestigious Design in Wood show
several years, David films a total of (San Diego, CA).
91 episodes, introducing millions One of my personal favorite
of woodworkers to a different kind pieces of David’s, and one that’s
of woodworking. A kind of wood- always stuck with me since I saw it,
working that blends flawless design, is his 1991 piece, “Ancient Egyptian
exotic woods, and absolutely perfect Inspired Table,” below. David stated
execution. Woodworks was my first that he became mesmerized by
introduction to David J. Marks, but ancient craftsmen after a trip to see
his notable career started well before “Treasures of Tutankhamen” in the
he was selected as the host of the late 70’s. It was this fascination that
critically acclaimed show. drove him to build this piece, which
In 1981, David opened his own appears in Fine Woodworking’s
studio at his home in Santa Rosa, “Design Book 6.”
California. Having worked in a variety Of late, David’s spent most of his
of cabinet shops and other endeavors time teaching private classes out of
in woodworking, David started to his Santa Rosa, CA shop and work-
design and build distinctive furniture ing on turnings. His turnings, such
for clients across the US. In the late as “Sensi” (shown at right), often
80’s, David started to focus on his feature David’s signature patina
sculpture and turning work. Some and bent-lamination stands. It was
of David’s most recognizable pieces one of these stands that became
feature turnings, extensive gildings, the inspiration for an upcoming
and intricate marquetry. Popular Woodworking project from
Over the years, David’s been the the master himself, David J. Marks.
recipient of many notable awards Stay tuned for it... you won’t want to
from furniture design to turning. miss it. PW — Logan Wittmer
Some of his notable awards are being
a two-time Niche award winner,

(Left) “ANCIENT EGYPTIAN INSPIRED TABLE.” 1991. MAHOGANY, GOLD LEAF,

LAPIS LAZULI, IVORY & EBONY. PHOTO BY DON RUSSEL

(Right) “SENSI.” 57"-TALL WITH STAND. PHOTO BY DON RUSSEL.

64 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Type I Extended Our Most Durable
Working Time Wood Glue

ALL NEW
WOOD FILLER!
www.gorillatough.com
©2022 The Gorilla Glue Company
 THE DETAILS

You go the extra mile to make sure your projects turn out
perfect. Your pinner should do the same. SENCO®’s new
line of pinners with NEVERLUBE® oil free design never
require lubrication, eliminating oil spatter and stains on
finished surfaces.