Plymouth’s

Heritage and History

The origins of Plymouth can be traced back to Saxon times, more than a thousand years
ago, and its history very much reflects its maritime location. Farmland on a small peninsula
at the mouth of the river Plym, referred to in the Domesday Book in 1086 as Sudtone,
meaning South Farm, developed into Sutton Harbour, the hub of medieval Plymouth. The
earliest record of cargo leaving Plymouth dates from 1211, and for the next two centuries
trade through Plymouth flourished, particularly during the 100 Years War with France.

Plymouth’s importance both as a community and a port accelerated during this period. In
1254 its town status was recognised by Royal Charter, and in 1439 Plymouth was the first
town in England to be granted a Charter by Parliament. Trade with other English regions,
the Baltics and Northern Europe expanded, whilst fortifications were built up to repel
repeated French incursions.

During the next three centuries Plymouth established its reputation both as a centre for
voyage and discovery, and for its military importance. Transatlantic trade originated with
William Hawkins in 1528. His son John laid the foundations of an organised naval force.
In 1572 Sir Francis Drake became the first Englishman to sail into the Pacific, and in 1577
he embarked on the first ever circumnavigation of the globe. Back in Plymouth, Drake
masterminded the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588. According to popular legend,
he played bowls on Plymouth Hoe as the Armada sailed up the Channel. Drake was
responsible also for the establishment of England’s first colony, at Roanoke in Virginia,
an act that may be regarded as the origins of the British Empire.

Perhaps the most celebrated expedition to leave Plymouth was that of the Pilgrim Fathers.
Persecuted for their puritan beliefs in eastern England, they set sail for the New World on
board the Mayflower in 1620.

Contact
visitplymouth.co.uk barbicantic@plymouth.gov.uk
WhatsOnPlymouth @visitplymouth +44 (0) 1752 306330
Further explorations that left from Plymouth included three
voyages to the southern ocean and the Pacific made by James
Cook, the first in 1768. He was the first explorer to set foot on
what are now the Hawaiian Islands, where he died in 1779. In
1831 Charles Darwin left Plymouth for the Galapagos Islands,
where he formulated his revolutionary theories of natural
selection and the Origins of Species. More recently, in 1967 Sir
Francis Chichester started and finished at Plymouth the first
ever solo circumnavigation of the globe on board his yacht
Gypsy Moth IV.

Plymouth’s military expansion began in earnest in 1670 when a

citadel was built on the highest point above the town, the Hoe,
meaning high ground. In 1690 the first Royal Dockyard opened
on the banks of the Tamar west of Plymouth. Further docks were
built in 1727, 1762 and 1793, and a huge naval complex was
later established, including the communities of Plymouth Dock
and Stonehouse. The Navy’s role during war against Napoleon’s
France was pivotal, and in 1812 a mile-long breakwater was laid
to protect the fleet.

Throughout the nineteenth century the population and physical

size of the towns increased dramatically. In 1824 Plymouth
Dock was renamed Devonport, and in 1914 the three towns
of Plymouth, Devonport and Stonehouse were united as the
Borough of Plymouth. In 1928 Plymouth was granted City
status, and the first Lord Mayor was appointed in 1935.

Plymouth was heavily bombed during the Second World War.

Plymouth’s and Devonport’s centres were destroyed. Re-built
in the 1950s, Plymouth’s commercial heart was the first in
England to incorporate pedestrian-only shopping avenues.
Since the war the city has expanded, with new housing and
commercial developments and absorption of what once were
neighbouring communities.

In 1967 Plymouth absorbed the towns of Plympton and

Plymstock. Plympton pre-dates any development in the Sutton/
Plymouth area on the coast. Plympton stands two miles inland
on the river Plym, and its origins, which, like that of Sutton, date
from the Saxon age, were founded on tin mining and trading.
For as long as trading vessels could reach Plympton, the
community flourished. However, in the early years of the last
millennium the river silted with mining residue, and it was from
that time that Sutton / Plymouth grew to pre-eminence. The
name Plympton means plum-tree village in Saxon English, and
it was from this that the river and later the city of Plymouth itself
derived their names.
The whole region is a popular tourist destination, and the
city itself attracts large numbers of visitors, who are drawn
to the Old Barbican district where they can stroll through
streets that date from the sixteenth century and take tea in
Elizabethan tearooms. At the Barbican, too, is the Mayflower
Steps monument, built in 1934 and a permanent reminder of
the Pilgrims’ voyage to America. Plymouth’s motto is Turris
fortissima est nomen Jehovah - “the name of Jehovah is the
strongest tower”, taken from the Proverbs of Solomon.

Plymouth’s history on foot

1

3
 The remains of three Tudor fireplaces are set into the
wall on your left. Basket Ope brings you to the parade.

Until the 13th century an inlet of Sutton Harbour

stretched beyond here up to the junction of Notte
Street and Southside Street. By the16th century the inlet
had been filled and after 1775 was used as a parade
ground by the Royal Marines.

Across the Parade is a granite building known as the

4 Old Custom House. Until restoration in the 1970’s this
had a date stone carved ‘A1623K’. Diagonally opposite
and behind is the present Custom house designed by
David Laing in 1820.

Walk away from the harbour to the head of the Parade.

5 Turn left and go up Blackfriars Ope. Ahead, in Southside
Street is Coates Distillery. This 18th century distillery
contains two 19th century stills. In the east end of the
buildings first floor is a fine medieval hall (1400-30) with
an arch-braced roof and moulded granite door and
window frames. In the 17th century this hall belonged to
the Hele family, was then used as a debtors’ prison and,
later, as acongregational meeting house.
www.plymouthgin.com

In medieval times Plymouth had only two friaries. That of

the White Friars stood to the north east of Charles
church, that of the grey Friars was at the top end of New
Street. Walk along Southside Street to Pin Lane, passing
on the corner, a Tudor house with overhanging windows.
Go up Pin Lane and turn left at the top into New Street.
This was known as Grey Friars Street or Rag Lane until
the 18th century.

6
Here there are a variety of building s including 20th
century flats, 19th century warehouses and Bonded
stores and, near Stokes Lane, a group of Jacobean and
Elizabethan houses, some with finely carved wooden
door frames.

The Palace Vaults warehouse was built in 1809 as stores

for prizes taken by the navy during the Napoleonic Wars.
Just beyond it the Elizabethan House is a small late 16th
century house which gives an impression of what it was
like to live in Plymouth in Drakes time.
 At the bottom of New Street is Island House where the
7 Pilgrim Fathers are reputed to have lodged before they
sailed for America in 1620. A board on the side of the
house lists their names.

Cross the road onto Quay road to see Sutton harbour,

the centre of Plymouths seafaring life until the 19th
century. This quay was developed in the reign of
Elizabeth I. It was widened and the old fish market (now
Edinburgh Woollen Mill and Glassblowing House
Restaurant) was opened in 1896. The original structure
of the building resembles a railway station – it was
designed by John Inglis, the engineer of the Great
Western railway.

8
Walk towards the harbour entrance past the Mayflower
Museum (Tourist Information Centre) The West and
East piers were built between 1791-99. The Lock Gate
was installed in the 1990’s On the West Pier memorials
mark events in local history; notably famous departures
and arrivals, including the sailing of the Mayflower
(1620). Some half a million Victorian emigrants left here
for new lives in Australia, New Zealand and Canada.

Go past the pier, cross the road and climb a narrow

flight of steps up to the remains of a tower wall, once
believed to be all that survived of Plymouths medieval
castle. Nearby is Lady Astor Garden. Representing this
area, in 1919, Nancy Astor was the first woman to take
her seat in parliament.

9
Walk through the arch beside the tower, under the flats
and up Lambhay Hill to the Citadel. This is one of the
finest star shaped fortresses in the country. Completed
c.1675 the main gate carries the coat of arms of John
Grenville, Earl of Bath and the date 1670. A less
elaborate gate faces the Hoe. The citadel contains St
Katherine Upon the Hoe chapel, which has a fine 17th
century doorway. Please check tour availability on
07876 402728

10 Continue onto the Hoe, reputedly the site of Drake’s

famous game of bowls, played whilst waiting for the
arrival of the Spanish Armada in 1588. Among the
monuments are the Drake statue, erected in 1884 and
the Armada memorial, erected in 1888.
 Walk on past the first elegant 19th century terrace – the
11 Esplanade. Overlooking the Hoe is 3 Elliot Terrace,
once the home of Viscount and Lady Astor. Elliot
Terrace. Two ll. Pre-book tours available.
www.plymouth.gov.uk/aboutcouncil/lordmayor/
elliotterrace

Double back to Smeaton’s Tower. Completed in1759 this

12 former Eddystone lighthouse set the pattern for all
offshore lighthouses. The tower was moved to the Hoe
between 1882 -84, because the sea was eroding the
rock on which it stood. Look out to sea to the south west
horizon. The stump of Smeatons lighthouse can be
seen, beside the present Eddystone light designed by
Sir James Douglass and lit in 1882. Almost two miles
offshore is the Breakwater. Designed to calm the tides,
this massive structure is over a mile long. Completed in
1840, it took twenty – eight years to build and made the
Sound a magnificent safe anchorage.