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 About this book
Rough Guides are designed to be good to read and easy to use. The book is divided
into the following sections and you should be able to find whatever you need in one
of them.
The colour section gives you a feel for Montréal, suggesting when to go and what not
to miss, and includes a full list of contents. Then comes basics, for pre-departure
information and other practicalities.
The city chapters cover each area of Montréal in depth, giving comprehensive
accounts of all the attractions, while the listings section gives you the lowdown on
accommodation, eating, shopping and more. The out of the city chapters describe
excursions further afield.
Contexts fills you in on history and books, while individual colour
inserts introduce Montréal’s cuisine and festivals, and language
9

gives you enough French phrases and Montrealisms to get by.

ISBN: 978-1-84353-775-5
781843 537755

Next comes the small print, including details of how to send

US $17.99 CAN$22.99

in updates and corrections, and a comprehensive index.

Colour maps covering the city can be found at the back of the book.

This third edition published April 2007

The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and
51799

currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Montréal, however, they
can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by
any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide.
 The Rough Guide to

Montréal

written and researched by

Arabella Bowen and John Shandy Watson

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

www.roughguides.com
 Contents

| C O NTENTS |
K Gay Montréal .................... 184
Colour section 1–16
L Performing arts and film.... 190
Introduction ............................... 4 M Shopping .......................... 199
What to see................................ 6 N Sports and outdoor
When to go .............................. 10 activities............................ 211
Things not to miss ................... 11 O Kids’ Montréal................... 218
P Festivals and events........... 223
Basics 17–40 Q Directory ........................... 228

Getting there ........................... 19 Out of the City 231–278

Arrival ...................................... 25
Getting around......................... 27 F Les Laurentides................. 233
The media ................................ 30 Les Cantons-de-I’Est ........ 245
Travellers with disabilities ........ 31 Québec City ...................... 253
Travel essentials ...................... 32
Contexts 279–294
The City 41–132
1 Downtown Montréal ............ 43 Language 295–302
2 Vieux-Montréal.................... 67
3 The Quartier Latin and Travel store 303–306
the Village ........................... 85
4 Plateau Mont-Royal
and north ............................ 92 Small print & Index 307–320
5 Mont Royal and northwest
....................................... 102
6 Parc Olympique and Jardin Taste of Montréal
colour section following
Botanique ......................... 109 p.112
7 Parc Jean-Drapeau ........... 117
8 Westmount and the
Lachine Canal ................... 123
Summer festivals
colour section following
Listings 133–230 p.208

9 Accommodation................ 135
H Cafés and restaurants ....... 146
I Bars and lounges .............. 168 Montréal colour maps
J Clubs and live music.......... 177 following p.320

 Illuminated Marché Bonsecours  The Plateau’s Coloniale Street

| INTRODUCTION | WHAT TO S E E | W HE N TO GO

Introduction to

Montréal
Montréal is by far Canada’s most cosmopolitan city.
Toronto may have the country’s economic power and
Vancouver its most majestic scenery, but the centuries-
old marriage of Protestant English and Catholic French
cultures that defines Montréal has given the city a
dynamic allure that is unique in North America. Its
captivating atmosphere combines the best of both
traditions, tempered with the Scottish merchants and Irish
workers who built much of the city and also the diverse
mix of Italians, Greeks, Eastern Europeans, Jews, Chinese
and Portuguese who have put down roots in various
neighbourhoods over the last century. And yet Montréal’s
free-spirited ambience – at once laid-back and highly
style-conscious – is a product of the city itself rather than
merely a sum of its multiethnic parts.

Ever since the French first flew the flag here in

the 1600s, the struggle for the city’s soul has cen-
tred on – and largely set apart – its English and
French factions. As such, Montréal has always been
a pivotal player in the tense politics of Québec
separatism, which reached its lowest point in
the late 1960s, when the Front de Libération du Québec waged a terrorist
campaign on the city. This occurred in the wake of legislation that enshrined
French-language dominance in Québec, causing English-Quebecers to flee in
droves, tipping the nation’s economic supremacy from Montréal to Toronto.
 After decades of linguistic dispute, though, a truce appears to have at last settled
in, and nowadays it’s hard to believe that little more than a decade ago a
 The illuminated Hôtel de Ville narrowly failed 1995 referendum
on separation transformed the

| INTRODUCTION | WHAT TO S E E | W HE N TO GO
city into a pitched battlefield over
linguistic and territorial rights.
It seems virtually everyone can
speak French, while the younger
generation of Francophones also
speak l’anglais – certainly a bless-
ing for English-speaking visitors,
who should have no problem finding someone who speaks the language.
The duality of Montréal’s social mix is also reflected in its urban make-up.
Sandwiched between the banks of the St Lawrence River and the forested,
trail-covered rise of Mont Royal (233m high, but a “mountain” in the minds
of Montrealers) the heart of the city is an engaging melange of old- and new-
world aesthetics. Busy Downtown, with its wide boulevards lined by sleek office
towers and rambling shopping malls, is emblematic of a typical North American
metropolis, while just to the south,Vieux-Montréal preserves the city’s unmis-
takable French heritage in its layout of narrow, cobblestone streets and town
squares. Closer investigation belies both these cliches, however, for there are
charming nineteenth-century churches dotted about Downtown, while the
bulk of Vieux-Montréal’s buildings are actually the fruits of the Anglophone
merchant class that made its fortunes off the country’s plentiful natural resources
and later during the Industrial Revolution, when the nearby Lachine Canal was
“Canada’s Pittsburgh”. Ironically, the impetus for the canal – the Lachine Rapids
in the St Lawrence River – was the reason for the city’s early success in the first
place: Montréal was as far as ships could travel into the interior, and so became
a major port and trading centre.
It’s the street-level vibe that makes
Montréal such a great place to visit. Like
the homegrown Cirque du Soleil, Mon-
tréal has a ceaseless and contagious ener-
gy that infuses its café culture, the thrill-
ing, into-the-wee-hours nightlife and the
boisterous summer festivals – celebrating
jazz, comedy, music and film. Nowhere
captures the city’s free-spirited ethos
better than Plateau Mont-Royal, the
trendiest neighbourhood in town and
effective meeting-point of Montréal’s
founding and immigrant cultures. Here,
the best restaurants, bars and clubs hum 

and groove along boulevard St-Laurent,

 Basilique-Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde
 the symbolic divide between the
Fact file city’s French and English communi-
| INTRODUCTION | WHAT TO S E E | W HE N TO GO

• Montréal, founded in 1642, is ties, all under the watchful gaze of

the third-largest French-speaking the city’s most prominent landmark:
city in the world (after Paris and the cross atop Mont Royal that
Kinshasa). recalls Montréal’s initial founding as a
• What Montrealers consider Catholic colony.
“north” is actually northwest – this
is because the street grid was set
up parallel to the St Lawrence,
which flows northeast where it

What to see
passes Vieux-Montréal. The fur-
ther “north” you go from there,
the greater the house number in

I
addresses. Boulevard St-Laurent
divides the city into east and west. nvariably, most first-time visitors
• On average, it snows nearly head straight for Vieux-Mon-
every second day during Decem- tréal, the oldest part of the city,
ber, January and February. The where the continent’s finest col-
heaviest snowfall on record was lection of seventeenth- to nine-
on March 4, 1971 – the 102cm
teenth-century buildings line the
that dropped that day is nearly
half the average snowfall for the atmospheric streets between rue St-
whole year. Antoine and rue de la Commune.
• The population of the city Sights are clustered around a number
of Montréal is 1.6 million, of of public spaces, and Place d’Armes,
which 54 percent have French dominated by the radiant Basilique
as a mother tongue, 17 percent
 The Biosphère
English and 29 percent another
language (a fifth of these are Ital-
ian). The population of greater
Montréal, including the off-island
cities and suburbs, is just over
3.5 million.
• The roughly triangular Île de
Montréal covers nearly 500
square kilometres and is domi-
nated by Mont Royal – known by
everyone as “the mountain”. The
island has 267km of shoreline,
surrounded by the St Lawrence
River to the south and east and
the Rivière des Prairies to the
northwest.
• Montréal’s top three most-
attended events are Just for
 Laughs (Juste pour Rire), Festival
de Jazz and Divers/Cité.
 Public art on McGill Notre-Dame, is
the best place to

| INTRODUCTION | WHAT TO S E E | W HE N TO GO
start from. The
neighbour ing
streets are home
to historic muse-
ums as well as the
delicately steepled
Chapelle Notre-
Dame-de-Bon-
Secours and
the silver-domed
Marché Bonse-
cours, one of the city’s best-known landmarks. In the district’s southwest
corner, the excellent Musée d’Archéologie provides a good introduction
to Montréal’s three and a half centuries of history, while the reclaimed
land of the Vieux-Port, running the length of Vieux-Montréal along the
St Lawrence River, is lined with promenades, parks and a number of har-
bourfront attractions.
Between Vieux-Montréal and the mountain, you’ll find Montréal’s mod-
ern Downtown, centred on the east–west artery rue Ste-Catherine,
and filled with a collection of department stores, hotels, restaurants and
cinemas. Nearby, the scaled-down (but still massive) rendition of St Peter’s
– the Basilique-Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde – as well as the
warm-hued interior of St Patrick’s Basilica contrast with the more
sober Protestant churches dotted about. Although no longer the tallest of
Montréal’s skyscrapers, the cross-shaped Place Ville Marie seems to tower
over the city; it sits atop the shopping mall that began the Underground
City’s (RÉSO) network of pedestrian tunnels linking the Métro system
to shopping centres, offices and cultural institutions. The foremost example
of the latter is the complex of theatres that, along with the Musée d’Art
Contemporain de Montréal, comprises Place des Arts, half a dozen
blocks east of Place Ville Marie.
The west end of Downtown overlaps the Golden Square Mile, the his-
toric enclave of Montréal’s wealthy Anglophone elite, which clings to the
southern slopes of the mountain. This neighbourhood’s contributions to
the city include a number of sumptuous mansions and such public institu-
tions as McGill University and the Musée des Beaux-Arts facing onto
rue Sherbrooke, the premier address for upscale galleries and boutiques.
By contrast, the eastern edges of Downtown are marked by the small yet
bustling Chinatown and the bars and cafés of the Quartier Latin, stomp- 

ing ground of students from the Université du Québec à Montréal. A

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 similarly vibrant

 Calèche in Vieux-Montréal
energy infuses
| INTRODUCTION | WHAT TO S E E | W HE N TO GO

the Village, the

openly gay and
lesbian district
further east along
rue Ste-Catherine.
The Plateau
Mont-Royal dis-
trict on the moun-
tain’s eastern flank
mixes Montréal’s
typically down-to-earth quality with hip style and ethnic charm. The
largely Francophone neighbourhoods of the Plateau lie to the east of the
chic boutiques and cafés of rue St-Denis – ideal for people-watching
– while a panoply of ethnic businesses and trendy restaurants are clus-
tered on and around boulevard St-Laurent, more commonly known as
“The Main”. Rising above Downtown but best accessed from the Plateau,
Parc du Mont-Royal is the city’s largest park, wound about with trails
and terrific views over the city. The Oratoire St-Joseph and its massive
dome rise above the western flank of the mountain, while to the north,
a pair of vast cemeteries give way to tony, Francophone Outremont
and the Greek and Jewish communities of Mile End. Further north
still, Little Italy is a major foodie destination, as much for its espresso
and Italian dishes as for the enticing produce stalls and gourmet shops
surrounding the Marché Jean-Talon.
Some of Montréal’s chief tourist attractions are a bit far from the centre,
but remain easily accessed via the Métro. In the city’s east end, the Stade
Olympique, with its unique inclined tower, lies between the Biodôme,

Franglais
Despite Québec’s linguistic battles, there’s often a great deal of cross-
over between English and French and it’s not uncommon to hear
Montrealers switching from one to the other in the course of a single
conversation. Francophones and Anglophones have also each picked up
words and phrases from the other’s language – a combination of French
and anglais dubbed “franglais”. So while you might hear a Montréalais
say something like, “Je suis allé à un party ce weekend – c’était full fun”,
it’s no less natural for a Montrealer to throw in French expressions while
making plans for the evening: “Let’s try to grab a seat on the terrasse for
 the cinq à sept before heading to that new resto on the Plateau – we’ll
need to grab a bottle of wine at the dep along the way, though.”
featuring four ecosystems under one
roof, and the enormous Jardin Bota- The thistle and the

| INTRODUCTION | WHAT TO S E E | W HE N TO GO
nique, notable for its replica Chinese shamrock
and Japanese gardens and creepy-crawly Much is made of the history of
Insectarium. To the south, in the mid- the English and French in the
dle of the St Lawrence opposite the development of Montréal, but
Vieux-Port, visitors and locals alike there are two other emblems
head to Parc Jean-Drapeau, consist- on the city’s flag (which you
can see flying above Place
ing of Île Ste-Hélène and man-made
d’Armes – see p.68): in
Île Notre-Dame, for its green spaces, addition to the English rose and
amusement park, casino and racing French fleur-de-lis, the other
track (built for the Grand Prix). West quadrants contain a thistle
of Downtown is the staid Anglophone and a shamrock. The former
enclave of Westmount, while strung represents the Scottish settlers,
along the Lachine Canal to the south notably the wealthy landowners
and merchants who were
are a few workaday communities, nota-
responsible for building much of
bly Pointe St-Charles and St-Henri, what you see in Vieux-Montréal
which grew up during the area’s Indus- and grand houses such as
trial Revolution heyday. An excellent shipping magnate Sir Hugh
bicycle path runs through these neigh- Allan’s Ravenscrag (see p.61).
bourhoods, from the Vieux-Port to the Their names are still visible
canal’s end at the former fur-trading throughout Downtown, from
streets such as rue McTavish
post of Lachine.
to the university founded by
Beyond Montréal, two enchanting James McGill. Although there
regions – the Eastern Townships (Les were also influential Irish
Cantons-de-l’Est) and the Laurentian businessmen, the majority of
mountains (Les Laurentides) – provide Irish immigrants were poor
excellent year-round escapes with refugees from the potato
plenty of activities (especially top- famine, who didn’t fare much
better in the unhealthy slums
notch skiing), away from the teeming
of Pointe St-Charles. By the
city centre. In contrast to Montréal, mid-nineteenth century, they
Québec City, around 250km north- comprised a fifth of Montréal’s
east, seems immune to outside forces, its population and provided the
walled old-town steadfastly embodying backbone (along with their
the province’s four-century-old French French Catholic brethren) for
roots. Perched atop a promontory with the industrial revolution along
the Lachine Canal. They’ve also
a commanding view of the St Lawrence
left visible traces in the city,
and laced with winding, cobblestone from the glorious St Patrick’s
streets flanked by seventeenth- and Basilica (see p.54) to the even
eighteenth-century stone houses, it older St Patrick’s Day Parade
ranks as the country’s most romantic (see p.224). 

and beautifully situated city.

 When to go

 “The Main”, heart of the Plateau

| INTRODUCTION | WHAT TO S E E | W HE N TO GO

M
ontréal’s climate is one
of extremes – bone-
chilling winter tem-
peratures morph into
sweaty summer highs with barely
an iota of spring to ease the tran-
sition.Though tourist authorities
are fond of minimizing the true extent of the city’s winters, the season is in fact
bitterly cold; temperatures often fall well below the zero mark and snowfalls
don’t dust the city – they bury it. Though a boon for avid skiers and snow-
boarders, the period between November and April can be positively grim for
everyone else. That said, if you’re here during a cold snap, the labyrinthine
Underground City (RÉSO) provides an escape from the elements and spend-
ing the afternoon tucked inside a cozy café is a wonderful antidote.
The transition from winter to summer passes almost unnoticed, and locals
quickly replace their complaints about the cold to gripes about the humidity.
The population seems to double come summer as the city’s residents come out
of hibernation; still, despite the heat and the crowds, late June through August
is one of the best times to visit, thanks in part to a rotating menu of wild fes-
tivals. Likewise, Montréal can be simply glorious during the autumn months.
Though it’s cooler in the evenings, the days remain quite warm and, best of all,
the changing leaves set the city ablaze with bursts of yellows, oranges and reds.
Indeed, the season is perfect for hikers as the provincial parks resonate with
colour, though traipsing up Mont Royal can be just as splendid.

Average monthly temperatures and rainfall

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec
Max°C -6 -4 2 11 19 23 26 29 20 13 5 -3

Min°C -15 -14 -7 1 7 13 15 19 9 4 -2 -11

Max°F 22 24 36 51 65 74 79 84 68 55 41 27

Min°F 5 8 20 33 45 54 60 67 49 38 28 12

Rain (mm) 63.3 56.4 67.6 74.8 68.3 82.5 85.6 104 86.5 75.4 93.4 85.6
10
Rain (inches) 2.5 2.2 2.7 2.9 2.7 3.3 3.4 4.1 3.4 3.0 3.7 3.4
23
| AC TIVITIE S | CON SUM E | E V E N TS | N ATURE | S I GHTS |
things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Montréal has to offer

in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is
a selective taste of the city’s highlights: memorable restaurants,
lively festivals, engaging museums and exciting outdoor activities.
They’re arranged in five colour-coded categories to help you find
the very best things to see, do and experience. All entries have a
page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can
find out more.

11

01 Jardin Botanique Page 112 • Head east to see the pagoda-dotted Chinese
Garden and serene Japanese Garden, the highlights of this sprawling botanical oasis.
 03 The Village Page 89 • The
heart of Montréal’s gay and lesbian
community, this vibrant neighbourhood offers
| AC TIVITIE S | CONSUM E | E V E NTS | N ATURE | S I GHTS |

an abundance of restaurants, cafés, bars

and shops.

02 Musée d’Archéologie et
d’Histoire de Montréal
Page 79 • Filled with remains from Montréal’s
earliest days, this fascinating museum lies on
the site of the colony’s founding in 1642.

05 Historic churches Page 71 •

The city abounds with graceful
chapels and churches, in addition to the
bolder architecture of its four cathedrals,
including the Basilique Notre-Dame (pictured).

04 See and be seen on a

terrasse Page 161 & 171 •
For both café society and after-work 5 à 7
12 drinkers, Montréal’s patios fill up when the
warm weather arrives and keep going until
the wee hours.
 07 Fripperies Page 204 • Bin-diving
at any of Montréal’s funky second-
hand clothing shops is bound to turn up

| AC TIVITIE S | CONSUM E | E V E NTS | N ATURE | S I GHTS |

distinctive looks ­– at bargain prices – that will
set you apart from the crowd back home.

06 Strolling the Plateau

Page 92 • Checking out the distinctive
architecture of the Plateau’s staircase-lined
streets and back-lane courtyards, called
“Balconville” by locals, is as good an excuse
as any to explore this hip neighbourhood.

09 Grand Prix Page 213 •

The thunder of Formula 1 cars
reverberates throughout the city, as do the
accompanying festivities Downtown.

08 Snack on a fresh
Montréal bagel Page 206 •
Fans say the city’s bagels are better than
New York’s. Decide for yourself by joining the
queues at the Mile End bagel bakeries and
tasting one straight from the oven.

10 Mont
Royal
Page 102 • At
233 metres, the
“mountain” is
hardly deserving
of the name, yet
its many trails,
stunning views
and central
location make
it a more-than-
worthwhile 13
destination.
 12 Marché Jean-Talon
Page 207 • This market at the heart of
Little Italy overflows with fresh produce, bread,
| AC TIVITIE S | CONSUM E | E V E NTS | N ATURE | S I GHTS |

cheeses and meats seven days a week.

13 Jean-Paul Riopelle
Page 56 • The influential Québécois
artist’s vibrant abstracts are splashed
about both the Musée d’Art Contemporain
(pictured) and the Musée des Beaux-Arts.
11 Vieux-Quebéc Page 253 •
Much of New France’s history is bound
up within the fortification walls encircling the
beautiful and atmospheric Old Québec.

15 Mont Tremblant Page 240 •

This sprawling resort complex in the
Laurentians north of Montréal offers luxurious
lodgings and almost a hundred ski runs.

14 Festival International de
Jazz de Montréal Page 225 •
Montréal’s storied jazz scene is celebrated
14 at this massive annual concert series, which
draws big names and hundreds of thousands
of visitors from all over the world.
 17 Château Ramezay
Page 75 • This 300-year-old manor
house is as much an artefact of the city’s

| AC TIVITIE S | CONSUM E | E V E NTS | N ATURE | S I GHTS |

history as the exhibits inside, especially the
ornate mahogany-panelled Salle de Nantes,
where concerts are held.

16 Dinner at a bistro
Page 155 • With its bold and brash
atmosphere, Vieux-Montréal restaurant
Holder provides a convivial way to ease into
French bistro cuisine.

18
Lachine
Biking
the

Canal
Page 125 •
Once the centre
of Montréal
industry, this
waterway
has been
rehabilitated
with a lengthy,
picturesque
walking and
biking trail.

19 Les Cantons-de-l’Est Page 245 • The rolling foothills of the Eastern

Townships are dotted with charming villages such as North Hatley, and active travellers
can head to the lakes and forested peaks for hiking, canoeing, skiing and more.
15
 21 Montréal
Canadiens Page 211 •
Though the Canadiens are a long
| AC TIVITIE S | CONSUM E | E V E NTS | N ATURE | S I GHTS |

way from their glory days, seeing

them play at the Centre Bell is still an
action-packed, invigorating way to
spend an evening.

20 Oratoire St-Joseph Page 105 •

This copper-domed edifice, an awe-inspiring
tribute to religious devotion, towers over the western 23 Vieux-Montréal
architecture Page 67 •
slopes of Mont Royal. Every turn of a corner reveals
architectural details in Old Montreal’s
jumble of narrow, lamp-lit streets
lined with eighteenth-century houses
and elaborate nineteenth-century
commercial buildings.

16
22 Relaxing in Parc Lafontaine
Page 96 • Take a break from sightseeing at
this urban oasis, where you can lie in the sun, take a
boat out on the ponds, or even catch a free play at
the outdoor Théâtre de Verdure.
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