The Peloponnese 01

The Peloponnese 02
CORINTHIA
Coming from Athens to the Peloponnese,
Corinthia is the first prefecture visitors meet. It is
also the prelude to the warmth and excitement
that the land of Peloponnese promises. The
scents of the sea, of the mountains, of the
harvest of grapes and currants surround you,
accompanied by the bees. buzzing around the
sheds where the currants are drying. This is
where Greek myths revive. This is where
Nemean wine is called .Herakles. blood. and it is
believed that retsina wine is the teardrop of a
certain nymph. This is where one can hear
stories about goddesses. About Zeus and
Apollo. Where he can come upon columns,
sanctuaries and ancient palaces.
Travelling through Corinthia
Just before the Isthmus, to the right, the road
veers off to Loutraki, a town built on the foothills
of the Gerania range on the soil of Central
Greece, yet still part of Corinthia prefecture. The
sky is reflected in the sea. People come and go
on the beach, relaxed, swimming and tanning in
the summer sun. In Loutraki there are mineral
springs, the waters of which gush from the earth
with healing power.
Beyond Loutraki, heading west, is Vouliagmeni
lake, which is joined to the sea by a narrow
channel.
Near Perahora peninsula, where there is a
picturesque bay, visitors can see the first ruins at
the back of the harbour - those of the temple of
Hera Akraia and Limenia. This place gives a
foretaste of what to expect from the main
sanctuary of Hera in the Peloponnese. Returning
to the highway to Corinth, the road crosses the
Isthmus, - which Greeks use to call the avlaki -
the ditch - towards one of the most important
panhellenic shrines, the sanctuary of Poseidon
at Isthmia (7th c. BC), near Kiravrisi village,
where panhellenic games were held every
second year. Adjacent to the archaeological site
is a museum with interesting finds. The glass
paintings are most impressive.
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1. The Isthmus of Corinth
2. Ancient Corinth
3. Sea sports near the beautiful beaches of
Corinth.
4. Nemea
From here the road leads to Kehries, the eastern
port of Corinth on the Saronic Gulf. Ancient
foundations were excavated at the harbour.s two
quays, but most are submerged. Traces of the
temple of Isis and an early Christian basilica
constructed on top of the temple can be
distinguished.
Continuing, visitors arrive at the Baths of Belle
Helene (Loutro Elenis), a summer resort
possessing nice beaches and mineral springs, at
the seaside village of Almiri and Korfos, a hamlet
built at the head of a small bay with beautiful
beaches, full of pine and olive trees.
Corinth yesterday and today
Since antiquity Corinthia was continually being
thrown into turmoil by tribes pouring into the
Peloponnese from the Isthmus. Corinths history
begins with the settling of the Dorians (9th c. BC). It
became a great naval power which perfected the
trireme. The Corinthians were the first to conceive
the idea of digging through the Isthmus, but were
unable to accomplish this feat. Instead, they
invented and built a paved slipway, called the
diolkos, to haul their boats over the Isthmus. They
were foremost in the arts, particularly in ceramics.
The 5th century was the peak of Corinth .s glory.
Due to the success of Athena (Athens) as a
powerful force, however, Corinth was eclipsed and
fell into decline. In 146 BC the Romans completely
destroyed the city. In 44 BC Julius Caesar founded
a Roman colony here. In 67 AD Nero started
digging through the Isthmus and got as far as a big
trench, but works were abandoned after his death.
The canal finally became a reality in 1891-1893.
Invasions and looting by barbarians threw Corinth
into a new decline and the city was not heard from
again until the early Byzantine era.
In 521 a strong earthquake totally destroyed the city
which rose again around the 11th century.
In 1358 the Franks took over, holding on until 1395
when the Byzantines gained the advantage, only to
sell the city to the Knights of Rhodes five years
later. Corinth, with most of the rest of the
Peloponnese, fell to the Turks in 1458, became the
property of the Knights of Malta for a time (1612),
passed to the Venetians in 1687 and was
recaptured by the Turks in 1715. These were ousted
in 1822.
The Peloponnese 04
5. Corinthia is famous for its citrus trees
6. Acrocorinth
Today Corinth (Korinthos) ranks among Greeces
most important cities and is a major transportation
hub. The church of the Apostle Paul reminds us of
the saint.s Letters to the Corinthians and his
preaching here. Its long waterfront is one of the
most attractive spots in the city. The numerous
pastry shops, restaurants, taverns, bars, cinemas
and nightclubs make Corinth a lively city all year
round. In autumn (September-October) a theatre
festival is held there with troupes from all over the
Balkans, as well as a panhellenic amateur theatre
contest.
Ancient Corinth
The ruins of ancient Corinth are spread out at
the foot of the huge rock of Acrocorinth. The
monuments are mainly Roman; only a few are
Greek. It is possible to trace, till today, the ruins of
the Long Walls that once began at the summit of
Acrocorinth and descended all the way to
Lechaion (Leheo), the artificial harbour on the
Corinthian Gulf. This was the starting point of
.Lechaion. road, which led to the ancient agora. It
was paved with flagstones and lined with
sidewalks, arcades and shops. The marketplace
was filled with imposing buildings, temples and
shops.
The Doric temple of Apollo (6th c. BC with 1st c.
AD restorations) stands on a knoll to the north of
the agora; it is the most important monument of
that period. To the northwest of the agora one can
see the ruins of a 4th century BC theatre - which
underwent some changes during the Roman era -
as well as the Roman Odeon.
The museum is in the southwest sector of the
site. It contains mosaic floors, Mycenaean and
Corinthian pottery, terracotta sphinxes, statues of
two supernatural beings, engraved stones, the
Roman head of the Goddess Tyche (goddess of
luck) and small gadgets of various kinds. On the
north side of the building one can see the remains
of the fountain of Glauke carved out of the rock.
Glauke, daughter of King Creon, was the reason
why Jason left Medea. In revenge Medea sent her
as a wedding gift a poisoned mantle which
enveloped the girl in flames the moment she put it
on. In order to save herself she leapt into the
fountain which since then has borne her name.
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Acrocorinth
The imposing mass of Acrocorinth (Akrokorinthos)
rises out of the ground at the edge of the ancient
city (9 km south of Corinth). At the top of the
pinnacle, at an altitude of 575 metres, stood the
acropolis of Corinth during ancient and medieval
times. This is the largest and oldest fortress in the
Peloponnese. The Franco- Byzantine-Venetian
fortifications (built atop the ancient walls) and
Turkish additions have left deep traces of their
successive claims to supremacy. At the summit,
which offers a magnificent view, there were a vast
number of shrines and temples dominated by the
Temple of Aphrodite. Lower down is the Peirene
Spring. Pausanias mentions that Peirene was a
woman who was transformed into a spring due to
the tears she shed for her son who had been killed
by Artemis.
The mountains of Corinthia
From Acrocorinth the road continues to Nemea.
Here the soil is yellow and dry, ideal for the
cultivation of grapes. The whole district is covered
with vines.
The neighbouring village of Herakleio is witness to
the passing of the mighty Herakles. It was in this
area that the legendary hero slew the fearsome
Lion of Nemea. There is not much left of ancient
Nemea: three columns of the temple of Zeus, a few
foundations, the outline of a palaestra and, 500
metres down the road, the stadium. It was here that
the panhellenic Nemean Games were held, in
honour of a local hero. They took place every two
years and the victors. reward was a crown of wild
celery.
From Nemea the road leads to Stimfalia, a village
in the region of mount Ziria. The lake no longer
harbours man-eating, iron-winged birds; they were
destroyed by Herakles. All that is left is the ruined
temple of Artemis (Diane) and the walls that
encircled the old city.
In the region there is also a Frankish church (13th
c.) and ruins of a Frankish castle.
In the foothills of Ziria (Mount Killini, where
Pausanias had seen white blackbirds), between the
villages of Goura and Feneos close to the beautiful
manmade Doxa lake, every year on the second
Sunday of September a big fair is held.
The road proceeds to Kastania, a charming
mountain village (alt. 920 m.), surrounded by fir
trees. It is one of the most popular places in
Corinthia for winter holidays. One more revelation
amongst the pine- and fir-clad slopes of Ziria is
Trikala village (alt. 1,300 m.). The Ziria refuge lies
5 km. from there.
From Nemea visitors are directed through
Dervenakia pass, where the hero of the Greek
revolution Kolokotronis (called also .Old Man of the
Morea.) destroyed a Turkish army during the first
year of the 1821 revolt against the Turks. The road
to Argos runs through it, while another road leads
to Hiliomodi, Klenia and Agionori, where there is a
medieval castle and a church with lovely frescoes.
Western Corinthia
Scattered along the highway from Corinth to
Patras are pretty little villages near the sea.
Villages that promise quiet, good fish and seafood,
friendly discussions with locals, a swim, hot sand
and unforgettable sunsets.
To reach Kiato, a town in the midst of a huge
orchard, the road traverses a series of villages -
Perigiali, Assos, Vrahati, Kokoni, Velo.
Octopuses, the fisherman.s favorite food, are
hanging along the shore, drying in the sun. There
are no antiquities here, just sand and pebbles,
tossed tirelessly by gentle waves.
After Kiato a quick visit to the Hellenistic ruins of
Sicyon (Sikiona) is a must. What remains from the
ancient city are just the ruins of the agora, a
temple, the bouleftirion, a theatre and a stadium.
The Roman baths, the most important monument,
have been refurbished and converted into a
museum where findings from the area are
exhibited. Along the coast road, villages pass
before your eyes in an endless procession.
Diminio, Melissi, Sikia, Xilokastro - each a
pleasant place to take a short break. And all along
the way fruit trees, pines and even palm trees
rustle in the breeze. Kamari, Loutro, Likoporia,
Derveni.
Bays and coves and lapping waves.
Sit in a taverna, under a vine arbour or in the
shade of some leafy tree, and enjoy the tasty
cooking of Corinthia: charcoal grilled fish, boiled
wild herbs, fried potatoes, feta cheese, olives,
wine, under the scented, sun-drenched vines and
.. cheers!
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ACHAIA
Brief history
After the decline of the Mycenaean centres, Achaians
from the Argolid came and settled here, founding
important cities. The region is named Achaia after
them. Though politically insignificant through most of
antiquity, it started to play a more dynamic role in 280
BC, when the Achaian Confederacy was created.
In 146 BC the area fell to the Romans.
It embraced Christianity earlier than the rest of Greece
(the Apostle St. Andrew preached in Patras and was
martyred there). In 1205 it occupied centre stage with
the founding of the Principality of Achaia by the Franks.
Before long it passed into the hands of the
Palaiologues, who ruled the Peloponnese from Mistras;
they were succeeded by the Turks in 1460.
For a short period (1687-1715), the area was a
Venetian colony. It was liberated in 1828.
A trip to Patras
Patras is the capital of the prefecture. It owes its name
to Patreas, chief of the Achaians.
The city is among the most important in Greece, and
the largest in the Peloponnese.
It is also a major transportation centre, linking Greece
with Italy and the Peloponnese with the Ionian islands.
It extends from the shore to the foothills of Mount
Panahako and is divided into two distinct parts, the
lower and the upper (old) town. The centre of the
Lower Town, which has an excellent layout and many
buildings worth visiting (neoclassical and interbellum
mansions, industrial buildings and buildings with Italian
influences), is the historical George 1st square
(together with the surrounding streets, many of which
are accessible only to pedestrians). Here, of special
interest is the Municipal Theatre (designed by Ziller),
which is a copy of the Milan Scala opera building.
Relatively closeby are the Municipal Library and
Picture Gallery and beautiful tree-covered Olga square.
At the southern entrance of the town stands the
impressive church of St. Andrew, the city.s patron
saint. To its left stands an older church, built on the site
of a Byzantine church that was destroyed by the Turks.
From there, .Trion Navarchon. street leads to Psila
Alonia - the balcony of Patras -, a lovely spacious
square with many cafs amd ouzeris. A walk along the
(recently remodeled) seafront is also worthwhile. Here
you can see the city.s .trademark., its lighthouse. The
Lower Town also boasts a fine Archaeological Museum
with significant finds and Greeces only printing
museum.
The Upper (Old) Town, which still retains much of
the atmosphere of a bygone era, is built around the
medieval castle (6th c.), the grounds of which have
been transformed into a park. From here you have
a fine view of the city, the sea and the opposite
shores of central Greece. You can reach the castle
from the Lower Town by Agios Nikolaos street,
which leads up to the famous steps, one of the best
known spots of the city. Close to the castle are the
Roman Odeon (160 AD), which has been restored
and is used for performances during the annual
.International Patras Festival., the imposing
neoclassical building of the old hospital and the
Pandokrator (Almighty) church with copper cupolas.
It is also worthwhile to take a walk through the
Dasyllio, a coppice of pine trees with a wonderful
view and a caf.
Eight km. southeast of the city, close to the village
of Petroto, is the .Achaia Clauss. winery which was
founded in 1854. It covers a total area of 11,000
m2. The winery is open for visitors, who can also
sample the various wines. One of Patras. major
venues is its famous Carnival . proof of the citizens.
imagination, sense of humour and high spirits .
which each year attracts thousands of visitors. The
city also boasts a lively cultural scene and bristling
nightlife. Patras has been designated as the
.Cultural Capital of Europe. for the year 2006.
Along the coasts
The coasts of Achaia are a delightful concoction of
picturesque villages, indented shores, gardens and
shady trees. A treat for the eye. Leaving Corinth,
the coast road leads all the way to Patras. The
itinerary is more scenic than the national highway,
since it is right on the water.s edge.
On their way visitors reach Akrata, a coastal
village, set in lush surroundings on a crystal-clear
sea. This was the site of ancient Aigai. In the
vicinity, a sight worth seeing is the post-Byzantine
monastery of Agia Triada (1715), which has well-
preserved mosaics.
Next come Platanos, Trapeza, verdant hamlets,
and Diakofto. This is where the funicular railway
leaves for Kalavrita. Continuing along the coast
road, one village after another are revealed among
the green of the hillsides. Short stop in Egion. The
town is divided into an upper and a lower section;
the old district near the shore is more interesting;
an enormous plane tree, mentioned by Pausanias
during his travels, still stands. The church of the
Virgin Faneromeni, built according to designs by
Ziller, lies in the upper town.
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7. Patras. The church of Agios Andreas
8. Egio
9. The monastery of Agia Lavra
10. Kalavrita. Mega Spileo
The Peloponnese 08
Just outside the town one can visit the chapel of the
Virgin Trypiti, tucked into a rock crevice. The parade of
villages continues: Longos, with its pebbly beach,
Lambiri, with its lovely shore, Psathopirgos, a pretty
hamlet. Each one has its own characteristics, its
distinguishing features. Each has a little taverna or a
quaint caf where visitors can relax for a while.
Right before Patras there is Rio, a transportation hub,
uniting the Peloponnese with Central Greece and
Epiros by the Rio-Andirio bridge (one of the most
sophisticated in the world) which was completed in
2004.
Jutting towards the sea, the old Venetian fortress, the
Castle of the Morea, faded and ravaged by time, is the
first thing to strike the eye.
Passing through Patras the old Patras-Pirgos road is in
good condition; it offers a view on the sea, endless
stretches of sandy beach (Araxos) and charming
villages lapped in greenery. This little jaunt ends at the
wonderful beach of Kalogria, which is surrounded by
the pine-tree forest of Strofilia (5,000 acres). The entire
area is protected by the Ramsar convention, since it is a
significant wetland.
The mountains of Achaia
The mountain villages of Achaia are scattered all over
the three higher peaks, Mts. Panahako, Erimanthos
or Olanos, and Aroaneia or Helmos.
Set atop invisible plateaus or on precipitous slopes
amidst a riot of vegetation, these singularly lovely and
picturesque villages inspire wonder in the wayfarer.
How to get to Kalavrita
One can get to Kalavrita by car from Patras (77km.), the
coastal village of Trapeza or by funicular from Diakofto.
The Patras-Kalavrita road passes through vineyards,
olive grooves and small, verdant hills.
At a certain point the landscape changes and becomes
more mountainous. Aromas, scents and cool air win the
visitor over immediately. Plane and walnut trees stand
out to the right and left side of the road.
Halandritsa: stone houses, courtyards, narrow lanes, a
ruined Frankish castle, countless churches, bell towers
with a Western touch. Next come the villages of
Katarraktis, Kalanistra, Kalanos. Mihas, perched on a
hillside covered with walnut trees, catches the eye. After
passing Kato and Ano Vlassia, both traditional hamlets
built in 1660, it is worth to stop for a while at Flamboura.
A dirt road leads to the Monastery of Makellaria. An
inscription relates that the monastery was built by
Velissarius, Justinian.s general, in 532. It contains a
Byzantine icon of the Virgin, endowed with a curious
feature: it gives the visitor the impression that the
Virgin.s eyes follow him wherever he stands.
Back to the main road, any one of the many side roads
lead to a forest, gorge or Byzantine monastery.
Kalavrita lies ahead. To get to know the area, it is
essential to get out of the car, walk through the streets,
visit the castles and churches, mingle with the people,
have a drink with them and clink glasses in a toast.
Diakofto - Kalavrita
The trip on the funicular railway resembles a
journey in a dream. Once the train has left the
tranquil, peaceful landscape of Diakofto, it delves
into the deep gorge of Vouraikos river that runs
down from Helmos mountain. Before long the little
train is clutching the rails with its .teeth.. Enormous
rocks, boulders gnawed by time, trees hanging from
the mountain slopes call forth awe and admiration.
The first stop is at Treklia for a quick cup of coffee;
then on to the village of Zahlorou at an altitude of
642 m. This traditional village possesses a rare
natural beauty.
The town of Kalavrita, the third stop on the
funicular, is spread out on the slopes of Helmos at
an altitude of 750m. Numerous tall plane trees offer
their shade. They line the streets like an arcade.
The charming houses, streets, trees all make you
feel at home. Just outside the town a Venetian
fortress, .the castle of Orea., stands atop a bluff.
Mega Spileo
The monastery can be reached by road from the
village of Trapeza or by footpath from Zahlorou.
The grandeur of nature astonishes the visitors. The
view is a perfect giftoffering from the monastery. It
is located at 1000 m. above sea level. An enormous
building resembling a fortress, the legendary
monastery rises with a total of eight storeys within a
gaping cavern. Built in 362, it has since remained
firmly wedged in Greek history.
The 17th century monastery church has wonderful
but damaged frescoes, mosaic floors and a bronze
door with engraved decoration. The icon of the
Virgin Mary holding the Christ Child in her right arm
is a relief made of wax and mastich, attributed to St.
Luke. The monastery museum contains holy relics
and treasures, an icon screen of great age, carved
wooden crosses, venerable manuscripts, Gospels,
and the like.
The silhouettes of the monks with their long hair,
full beards and erect figures testify that another way
of life - the ascetic way, so different from our own -
reigns in this place.
Agia Lavra
The monastery of Agia Lavra, at 6 km. from
Kalavrita, is built at a point which commands a view
of the whole Vouraikos river valley. Founded in 961
at an altitude of 961 m., it once also had 961
monks. It was in this building - which dates from
1689 - that the call for .freedom or death. first rang
out in 1821, exhorting Greeks to defend their
heritage and throw off the Turkish oppressors. The
revolutionary banner was raised in the garden
under the historic plane tree.
The monastery church has a fine carved icon
screen, frescoes damaged by fire and the icon of
Agia Lavra.
The Peloponnese 09
Apart from the revolutionary banner, the relics include a
very old Gospel, a gift from Catherine the Great; gold
crosses; reliquaries and a valuable collection of early
Christian and ancient objects.
From a hill opposite, a monument to the heroes of the
Revolution of 1821 looks down on the monastery.
Ski Centre
The Helmos Ski Centre lies at 14 km. from Kalavrita on
the main peak of Helmos mountain (.Vathia Lakka.,
altitude 1,650 - 2,400 m.). It has 12 ski pistes (of various
degrees of difficulty), 7 ski lifts, a ski school, a first aid
station, chalets, ski equipment rental office and a canteen.
From up there one can see the Gulf of Corinth, gleaming
like a huge lake; from the ridge of the mountain,
Neraidorachi, almost the entire Peloponnese lies at your
feet. It is from Neraidorachi that one makes the descent to
the waters of the river Styx. According to myth, the Styx
marked the entrance to Hades. Its parents were Night and
Erebus. Today the locals call it .Mavroneri. (Black Water),
because of its colour in the depths of the ravine through
which it flows.
The ancient Greeks believed it to be the fountain of
immortality of the gods.
The cave of the lakes - Kastria
A half-hour.s drive from Kalavrita, near the village of
Kastria, leads to the cave of the lakes. A narrow passage
takes you into a first small cave that broadens into an
enormous cavern 2 km. long with 15 miniature lakes
formed by natural dams. The stalagmites and stalactites
with their extraordinary shapes, the iridescent colours, the
immense boulders, the small waterfalls and the tiny lakes
with their natural dams stimulate and delight
the imagination.
From here it is worth to take a trip to the cool green
villages where one can see antiquities (Klitoria, Likouria)
or vestiges of Frankish and Byzantine rule. Each village
has a precious gift to offer, something truly beautiful. There
are many springs on the way. Here and there wayside
shrines. Sometimes a flock of sheep blocks the passage
on the road and you. ll hear the cautionary growl of the
sheepdog.
Close to the village of Pagrati, there is the famous .vine
branch. of Pausanias, with very big branches, dating back
thousands of years. Some villages climb up a ravine
(Aroania, 930 m.), others are smothered in fir trees
(Kertezi, 1050 m.).
The houses are all made of stone, with roofs of tile. There
are also some traditional houses with towers. All the
villages have their main square, a fountain with gushing
water, a small caf or a taverna. Kertezi is renowned for its
bean soup and glorious wine.
And each place has a story to tell, whether about its
Byzantine church and miraculous icon, its local castle or
distant myth. People will greet you like a dear old friend.
And it won.t take long before you really are friends as
village people are a warm presence in Achaia.
11. Kalavrita. The funicular railway
12. Helmos ski centre
The Peloponnese 10
ELEIA (ILIA)
Introduction
According to Pausanias, Aethlios was the first king of
the region; he was succeeded by his son Endymion and
grandson Epeios. The latter gave his name to the
inhabitants, who were called Epeians. When Epeios.
nephew Eleios inherited the throne, the name of the
district was changed to Eleia and the inhabitants
Eleians, and that is what they have been called ever
since.
Pirgos
Pirgos is the capital of the prefecture of Eleia. The town
owes its name to the presence of a tall tower (pirgos)
erected by Ioannis Tsernotas (1512-20). It was known
by this name as early as 1687.
Its chief landmarks are the exquisite neoclassical
buildings designed by Ziller, the Municipal Market, the
Apollo Municipal Theatre, the hospital, as well as the
Town Hall.
In the evenings the residents of this little town
congregate in the flagstone-paved main square, with the
imposing St. Nicholas church lined by cafs and pastry
shops. In the narrow alleyways, small tavernas and grills
serve local delicacies, savoury tidbits from Eleia.s fertile
soil.
Ancient Olympia
Ancient Olympia lies 19 km. east from Pirgos, in a
valley between wooded Kronos hill, Alfios river and its
tributary, the Kladeos.
A brief history of the Games
According to legend, this area was inhabited by the
Pisans. Their King was Oinomaus, whose daughter
Hippodameia had married Pelops. There are indications
that already by 1000 BC games were being held in
honour of the couple. Though exclusively local at the
beginning, the games gradually attracted the interest of
the other towns in the vicinity.
In 776 BC, the leader of the Eleians, Iphitos,
rededicated the games to Zeus. This date marks the
first Olympiad; from that date every four years
panhellenic contests were held, attracting athletes from
all the Greek citystates.
During the Games, the Olympic Truce was in force and all
hostilities were suspended.
The victors prize was a crown made from a wild olive
branch, which was always cut from the same tree, the
Kallistefano. .Tinella kallinike. - Well done, glorious victor -
shouted the crowd in praise of the winner. Back in his
birthplace, people would knock down the city walls. The
Olympic Games, which included the foot-race, wrestling, the
Pankration, the Pentathlon, chariot racing and horse racing,
as well as artistic and literary competitions, came to an end
in 393 AD, with the prohibitory edict of Theodosios I.
Fifteen centuries later, in 1896, they were revived where they
had been born, in Greece, by the French historian and
educator Pierre de Coubertin. Since then every four years a
torch bearer, like the ancient heralds, starts out from Olympia
bearing the sacred flame to the place where the Games are
held. To oversee the organisation of the Games, an
International Olympic Academy was founded, with
headquarters since 1961 in Olympia.
The archaeological site
The first building on the left is the Prytaneion, where
ceremonies honouring the winners took place.
Farther south, the Philippeion and next to it the Heraion, a
Doric temple dedicated to Hera. Special running races, the
Heraia, were held in her honour, in which only virgins from
Eleia could participate.
Southwest of the Heraion lies the Pelopion, an altar
dedicated to Pelops, after whom the Peloponnese is named.
Nearby is the Doric Temple of Zeus (472 BC); here stood
the famous gold and ivory statue of the god, a work of
Pheidias.
Outside the sacred grove of the Altis are ruins of other
buildings: the Bouleuterion or Council House, where the
athletes took the Olympic oath; the Leonidaion, used as a
hostel for official visitors; the Palaistra (wrestling school), the
Gymnasion and the Baths.
The Treasuries, located at the foot of Kronos hill, were small
edifices raised by each city to house sacrificial vessels. Next
to them stands the Nymphaion, a semicircular marble tank
that held Olympia.s water supply. Just beyond the Treasuries
lie the Stadium and the Stoa Poikile or Echo Colonnade,
and near it Nero.s house. Set in the shade stands the
monument where is buried the heart of Baron de Coubertin,
the man who revived the Olympic Games.
The Archaeological Museum
Olympia.s new museum lies in a shady grove opposite the
site. Here findings from the area are displayed, among them
the stone head of Hera, Praxiteles. marble statue of Hermes
(330 BC), the Victory by Paionios (421 BC), Miltiades.
helmet, the terracotta group of Zeus carrying Ganymede,
and the sculptures from the pediments
and metopes of the Temple of Zeus, among the most
important works of Classical art. There are also pottery,
terracotta and bronze figurines, votive offerings from the
sanctuary, etc.
The Peloponnese 11
Museum of the Olympic Games
Very near the ancient site lies the modern village of
Olympia. Here one of its prettiest buildings houses the
Museum of the Olympic Games, the only one of its
kind in the world. It contains mementos connected with
the history of the Games and a unique series of
postage stamps, designed by Papastephanos-
Provatakis, commemorating the Games.
The hills of Eleia
1st route
From Olympia the road leads to the district of Lala and
the mountains of Folois.
The village of Lala is built at an altitude of 600 m., in a
lush area filled with cherry and walnut trees. The
village boundaries mark the start of the enormous oak
forest of Folois, redolent with legends and traditions.
Folois was the kingdom of the benevolent centaur
Folos, who gave shelter to Herakles.
At 800 m., the settlement of Lambia (Divri) stands out,
surrounded by lush vegetation. It consists of seven
neighbourhoods, each with its own name, church and
fountain. A bit farther on lies the village of Tripotama.
Eleia has many delightful mountain villages, dotting
treefilled slopes or tucked away in the heart of a forest,
which seem like hamlets out of a fairy tale.
2nd route
On the way to Andritsena and Bassae (Vasses), the
first stop is Krestena, a market town spread out in a
pine-wooded area. On top of the hill are the ruins of
the Temple of Athena Skillountia. The road is in a
good condition and as one drives along, whiffs of wild
herbs float in through the window.
Andritsena is next, its houses jutting out from the
treecovered mountainside. Their walls are stone, their
roofs tiled. A vast plane tree casts its shade over the
main square. As one walks through the cobbled
streets, one can see latticed windows all around,
enclosed wooden balconies and terraces lined with
flowerpots. Andritsena.s celebrated library containing
rare editions from 1500 and later is housed in an old
school building. The folkore museum is well worth a
visit; churches date from the 12th and 19th centuries.
At a small distance from the town lies the ruined 13th
century monastery of Isova. The road continues up the
mountain to Bassae. Greenery gradually gives way to
rock, massive peaks and a few scrawny shrubs.
Amidst this tangled wilderness the temple of Apollo
Epikourios is a surprising sight. Designed by Iktinos,
architect of the Parthenon, it was built in 420 BC, on
the foundations of an older temple,
13. Ancient Olympia. Praxiteles Hermes
The Peloponnese 12
by residents of the neighbouring settlement of Figalia. It
was dedicated to Apollo, in thanks for the god.s
relieving them from an epidemic. This is the best
preserved temple in Greece, second only to the Temple
of Hephaistos (the Theseion) in Athens. UNESCO has
included it in its list of world cultural heritage
monuments. It is possible that you will find the temple
covered, due to restoration under way.
From here, a dirt road leads to Figalia, a tiny mountain
village surrounded by olive and orange trees, and
boasting the ruins of a temple left over from the ancient
Arcadian city of the same name.
Next comes Lepreo. The ruins of the Classical temple
of Demeter Leprea stand above the village on a hill.
Way below Neda river flows, with its waterfalls or .white
waters. as the locals call them. Its springs are on Mt.
Lykeo, it has a length of 32 km. and discharges into the
Ionian Sea. The last few years excursions are organised
along the beautiful scenery.
In a short while you will reach the valley, on a fine road
leading to Zaharo.
Eleia.s mountains are a unique experience, a sparkling
spring to quench your thirst for nature and antiquity.
Eleias valleys
Soil is fertile here, the land is blessed, fields are
endless. Every corner is cultivated with vines, olive
groves, corn, wheat, vegetables. Every place well
tended, nothing wild.
Zaharo is a market town surrounded by pine and olive
trees, bordered by an enormous stretch of beach with
white sand and sparkling water.
Heading north the road leads to Kaiafas, a well known
spa, and the islet of Agia Ekaterini, in the middle of a
small harbour. On the eastern shore, the famous
mineral waters gush from two caves formed by crevices
in the rocks. The larger one is called the cave of the
Anigrides, the smaller the Geranion grotto, dwelling
places of nymphs since antiquity. The place is strangely
beautiful, delightful, though the odour of the springs
does bother one somewhat. Legend maintains that the
centaur Nessus washed his wound here after being
struck by Herakles. poisoned arrow, and that is why the
water smells. Kaiafas is not just the sulphurous springs,
however; it also has pine trees, sand and sea and a
long, long shore. It.s hard indeed to draw yourself away
from such a sea.
Continuing our tour, we pass the Alfios and its
renowned dam, and then arrive at medieval Katakolo,
in the district of ancient Pheia (Fia). In the bay of Agios
Andreas, atop a hill, are the remains of a fortress called
Pontikokastro (mouse castle), built by the
Villehardouins. The road continues towards the village
of Skafidia and the monastery with the same name. A
Venetian tower, dating from 1686, stands inside the
monastery garden. A stop to eat fresh fish at one of the
The Peloponnese 13
trim , newly painted taverns on the seafront in the vicinity is
a must. Chairs and tables shaded by trees or grape
arbours await visitors.
Amaliada is the name of a new town, built in the middle of
an emerald green field planted with olives and grapevines.
The monastery of Frankavilla, erected during the Frankish
occupation, lies 2 km. away. Another monastery with
echoes of the Franks is Agios Nikolaos of the
Frankopidima. It took its name from the perilous leap
(pidima) made by a desperate knight to escape his
pursuers.
North of Amaliada the road branching to the right takes you
to the ruins of Ancient Elis (Ilida). Elis was where the
athletes used to train before taking part in the Olympic
Games. Excavations have brought to light a theatre, traces
of the Gymnasion and two shrines to Aphodite. Continuing,
we come to the Pinios dam, one of the largest earth dams
in Europe.
On the way back to the main road is Gastouni.
The signpost indicates Andravida to the north and Killini to
the west. Andravida, headquarters of the Principality of the
Morea during the Frankish occupation, was the most
glamorous and richest city in the area. Here noblemen from
all over Europe used to come to try their luck at jousting
tournaments.
As for Killini, it was one of the Principality of Achaia.s
major ports. The city was surrounded by a massive
fortification wall with bastions and turrets. Near the harbour
the Byzantine convent of our Lady of Vlacherna (12th c.)
with its magnificent frescoes. Killini is connected with
Zakinthos by ferryboat.
Six km. farther north is where the Franks had their castle,
the fortress of Hlemoutsi (Clairmont), the most beautiful
and best preserved of all the castles in the Peloponnese. It
was built by Geoffrey I de Villehardouin in 1220. A few
kilometres beyond Hlemoutsi are the hot springs of Kilini, a
well known spa, with hotels, organised camping grounds
and mineral waters. The waters bubble out at a
temperature of 25.50 C and are recommended for asthma,
rheumatic and skin diseases. The buildings are spread out
among pine and eucalyptus trees. A truly tranquil and
pleasant spot, where the sun.s iridescent rays shine
benignly and the cicadas buzz nonstop.
Leaving the spa and heading south we encounter
Arkoudi, Glifa - with its fine sand - and Bouka, while
towards the north lie Lehena and Manolada, noted for their
watermelons and cheeses. From Manolada the road,
cutting through a thick pine forest that extends to the
water.s edge, comes out at Kounoupeli, identified with
ancient Yrmine, mentioned by Homer. A rock juts out of the
sea from which more mineral waters gush. Above on the
promontory there are traces of Mycenaean and Frankish
remains.
A little farther is a small taverna, where visitors can sit to
enjoy the view over the sea.
14. Bassae. The temple of Apollo Epikoureios
15. Ancient Olympia. Apollo
16. Ancient Olympia. The Stadium
17. Ancient Olympia
18. Ancient Olympia, the Palaestra
The Peloponnese 14
MESSINIA
Kalamata is the capital and main port of the
prefecture; a charming town, well known amongst
other things for its silk kerchiefs, oil, figs and the
sesame-covered sweet called pastelli. The town is
dominated by the castle built in the 13th century by
Geoffrey de Villehardouin. On the north side of the
citadel there is a small Byzantine church, dedicated to
the Virgin of Kalomata (of the good eye), from which
the town may have acquired its name.
From the castle one can observe the expanse of sea
below with its sandy and pebbly shores or turn his
gaze upon the deep green plain, the .happy land. of
the ancients. The beautiful old city is spread out below
the castle. This is where the Byzantine church of the
Virgin Ypapanti and the convent of the Kalograies,
where the nuns weave the famous Kalamata silk, are
situated.
There are many churches in town, the oldest being the
historic church of Agii Apostoli (13th c.), where the
Greek Revolution against the Turks was formally
declared on March 23, 1821. Kalamata has an
archaeological and folklore museum, a fine arts
museum and a library containing 60,000 volumes.
During summer, cultural events like concerts and plays
performed by Kalamata theatre are held in the
amphitheatre of the castle. It also hosts the
.International Dance Festival ., one of the most
significant in Europe. Other spots of particular interest
are the spacious central King George square, the
meeting place of both citizens and visitors, the railway
park and the area of the railway station. In the
evening, the town comes alive, especially along the
waterfront which is lined with tavernas, seafood
restaurants and rotisseries serving local dishes and
drinks, fresh fish, roast suckling pig and chicken,
sausages, cheese, olives, retsina wine and raki.
The landscape, the people
From neighbouring Eleia one can already feel the
charm of Messinian land. Euripides sung its praise,
calling it .a land of fair fruitage. watered by
innumerable streams, abounding in pasturage for
cattle and sheep, with a wonderful climate. This is how
Messinia remains till today. Long, cool summers, the
sweetest of springs, gentle autumns and mild winters,
many springs and abundant water, fertile soil, verdant
mountains.
The first stop is Kiparissia. Divided into the Upper
(preservable neighbourhood) and the Lower Town, it sits
as if wedged into the base of its fortress, its lower districts
reaching as far as the sandy shore lapped by the Ionian
sea. Surrounding the castle is a plain planted with olive
trees and grapevines. The sea opens into an infinite
expanse of azure. It is said that the view of the sunset
from the castle is one of the most splendid in the world.
Everywhere there are ancient, Byzantine and Frankish
monuments.
Peristera is not far from Raches village (5 km. from
Kiparissia), where three beehive tombs have been
excavated. Filiatra is not far off either. The whole district
is dotted with Byzantine and Frankish churches, of a
venerable age. Gargaliani sits on a lush hillside. It.s
worth going up to the town to see the view below: a
magical carpet of olive trees and vines that stretches to
the sea with Marathoupoli and the islet of Proti, the site
of a ruined Mycenaean acropolis, in the background.
Hora is built on a hilltop. This village has preserved its
oldfashioned appearance - stone houses with tiled roofs
and narrow lanes. The finds from Nestors palace and
Peristera are on display in the local museum. South of
Hora, 4 km. from Englianos, lies the ruined palace of
wise Nestor, who took part in the Trojan War and whose
city was the second largest in the Mycenaean world. Built
in the 13th century BC, the palace was destroyed by fire a
century later. Excavations have revealed the remains of a
luxurious, two-storey central building and two other
auxiliary buildings. The buildings were divided into formal
apartments, storage areas for wine and oil, tool sheds
and workshops. The central apartments - the throne room
with its stuccoed-clay ceremonial hearth and the queen.s
quarters - were richly decorated with frescoes. In the
palace archaeologists discovered thousands of clay pots,
a bathroom with terracotta bathtub and 1,250 clay tablets
with inscriptions in Linear B, which have been
deciphered. Domed tombs have been excavated in the
area surrounding the palace.
Pilos is a pretty little town built on a hill on the south
coast of the bay of Navarino, where the historical naval
battle took place in 1827. Snow-white two-storey houses
with courtyards drenched in flowers. The arcaded streets
make you think you.ve been transported to an island. The
main square ringed with pastry shops is sheltered by
humongous, centuries-old plane trees. The Turko-
Venetian fortress, known as Neokastro, dominates the
west side of town. One of the most attractive in the
Peloponnese, it is called that to distinguish it from the
ancient fortress to the northwest, named Paliokastro or
Palionavarino. The bay of Voidokilia extends from the
base of the old castle. A tranquil sanctuary, the floor of
the bay is covered with a thick layer of sand. Closeby is
the Yalova lagoon, with a wonderful scenery and one of
the most significant biotopes of the country. At the
southernmost tip of the west coast of the Peloponnese
lies Methoni. In the town are some enormous Venetian
The Peloponnese 15
19. Koroni
20. Ithomi - Mavromati
21. Part of the southern entrance (Sea Gate) of Methonis
Venetian Castle and behind it the Bourtzi (fortified islet)
22. View of Pilos from Neokastro.
In the background Sfaktiria island
23. View of Methoni
The Peloponnese 16
The Peloponnese 17
The Peloponnese 18
wells whose marble rims are furrowed by the pressure of
huge ropes over the centuries. Homer called Methoni .rich
in vines. and tradition maintains that the town is so called
because the donkeys (onoi) carrying its wine used to get
drunk (methoun), from the heady aroma. To enter the
castle visitors cross a massive bridge; they are impressed
by the gigantic walls, imposing bastions and monumental
gates. To the south another bridge unites the citadel with
the Bourtzi, a fortified islet with casemates and towers.
Opposite Methoni is the island of Sapienza (nowadays
uninhabited), a rich biotope with dense vegetation and
beautiful beaches.
But there.s much more to see in Messinia. Finikounda is a
picturesque fishing village at the back of a bay. Caiques
and fishing boats are drawn up all along its sandy shore,
while the tavernas serve their fresh catch to little tables at
the water.s edge.
The road slowly winds like a huge serpent amidst lush
fields to arrive at Koroni. Its medieval atmosphere is
imprinted in its very old mansions, churches and castle.
Still, crystalclear water, sandy beaches and opposite the
little island of Venetiko with its enchanting beach.
From its hilltop site the Venetian citadel crowns the town. A
proper eagle.s nest, with thick walls and massive gates, it
cuts a powerful and magnificent figure. Below the fortress
in a little palm grove is a small building housing the town.s
collection of historical and archaeological artifacts. The
beauty of the area, unchecked, unbroken, is a constant
surprise.
Petalidi juts out from the head of a little bay. The sandy or
pebbly beaches are shallow and sheltered from the wind,
while all around there are gardens with banana trees.
Central Messinia
Traversing central Messinia one encounters a lot of small
villages - mini paradises - harbouring ruins of prehistoric
settlements, ancient temples, medieval castles and
Byzantine churches. And every so often friendly cafs for a
cup of coffee and a .kalimera. (good morning).
Mavromati-Ithomi
Mavromati (32 km. north from Kalamata) is a small village
built like an amphitheatre up the foothills of the sacred
mountain of Ithomi, today called Voulkano, where the
sanctuary of Zeus Ithomatos was located. According to one
legend Zeus was not born in Crete or on mount Olympos
but here at Ithomi, where he was brought up by two
nymphs, Ithomi and Neda. Water flows from the heart of
the mountain to emerge in the centre of the village. The
water gushes impetuously and crystal-clear from an
opening that locals call .the black eye. (mavro mati), which
gave its name to the hamlet. It was in this stream that the
nymphs used to bathe baby Zeus. It is also called the
Kallirhoi fountain and Pausanias referred to it as the Spring
of Arsinoe. Dotted with important ancient sites, the land in
the area is watered by this spring.
Brief history
After the battle of Leuctra (371 BC) which marked the
end of Spartan domination over the Peloponnese, the
Theban general Epaminondas built the town of
Messini, naming it after the first queen of the region,
and the fortress of Ithomi (369 BC). The new city
became the capital of the liberated Messinians.
Ancient Messini
The city was protected by a circuit wall (parts of which
are still standing) 9 km. long and 3 m. wide. It is
considered one of the finest samples of military
architecture of the 3rd and 4th century BC.
The wall was interrupted at intervals by massive gates
reinforced with two-storey towers and battlements,
which took their name from the direction of the roads
that started from them. Four of the gates have been
preserved, of which the main one is the Arcadian Gate
to the north, where the road to the village of Zerbissia
originated. It is paved with large slabs which bear the
traces of chariot wheels.
The heart of the walled city lies at the spot occupied
by Mavromati today. Here the locals seem to be
saluting their great forebears. Among its public
buildings Ancient Messini had temples, a theatre, a
stadium and a cemetery, not to mention houses. The
discoveries excavated here up to now constitute a
very important archaeological entity. There is a guard-
guide on site, who has the key to the small museum in
the village in case a visitor wishes to see the findings
from the area.
The Virgin Voulkaniotissa
The fertile plain of Messinia starts at the lower
boundary of the village. There are plenty of olives,
vineyards, gardens, fruit trees, figs, sweet-smelling
herbs, shrubs, fences of blackberry bramble and
prickly pear. Every so often you come across a local
riding a donkey or on foot. You .ll spot him again later
in the village caf chatting quietly with his cronies,
sipping thick sweet coffee or fiery raki. In the market
place cafs and tavernas have spread their tables
under the shade of plane trees and vines. A path
leads from Mavromati to the summit of Mount
Voulkano. There, on top of the ruined temple of Zeus
Ithomatos, a convent was erected during the
Byzantine period. Dedicated to the Virgin, it contains
frescoes (still in good condition) of the Cretan School
dated 1608. According to tradition some hermits found
the icon of the Virgin Voulkaniotissa in this spot, which
led to the building of the convent.
Between Mount Voulkano and the lower hill of Agios
Vassilis, a bit below the saddle of the two mountains,
there is the large monastery of Voulkano, built in 1625.
Descending from the summit the visitor encounters the
remains of
The Peloponnese 19
the temple of Artemis Laphria or Limnatida, the
Laconian Gate, and farther off, the monastery, amidst
the trees. The main treasure of the monastery is the old
icon of the Virgin. Every year, on the 15th of August, a
big festival is organised; faithful people take the icon up
to the mountain to its first home, the convent on the
summit. The village of Samari is not far from Mavromati.
Outside the village at Kalogerorahi, is the church of
Samarina, dedicated to the Zoodohos Pighi (Source of
Life), a cruciform church with a dome (12th AD). It has
an impressive bell tower, mosaic flooring and frescoes
from the 12th, 13th and 17th centuries. A sign points the
way to Androussa, a market town with a strong local
colour and ruins of a Frankish castle and an aqueduct
built during the reign of Andronikos Palaiologos. Twelve
km. from Androussa, near the villages of Petralona and
Manganiko in an area thick with plane trees, lies the
famous Andromonastiro or Andreiomonastiro, a
monastery thought to have been founded in the 14th
century by the emperor Andronikos, from whom it took
its name. This, too, is a cruciform church with a dome.
The frescoes (of the same period as those in the
Samarina) are partly erased by smoke, time and
neglect, but impressive nonetheless.
Messinian Mani
Opposite Kalamata lies Almiro, towering over it is
enchanting Mt. Taigetos, called the .masculine
mountain., and next to it the sea, the Gulf of Messinia.
Almiro is a small settlement by the sea with a clean
pebbly beach and translucent waters. This is where
Messinian Mani begins. The landscape is so different
that one would think he is in another country. It is
abrupt, plunging headlong towards the sea. With
wooded slopes and rugged peaks; brooks and torrents;
deep gorges and high ridges. Only by the sea the
landscape seems peaceful.
Mikri and Megali Mandinia, Avia, Ano and Kato
Verga, Akrogiali, Kitries are some of the villages.
Sand and pebbles and little coves, but also pine and fir
woods and crystalline springs, solitary chapels and
caves once the dwelling place of nymphs and lined with
stalagmites. Hamlets hidden in the mountainsides and
hamlets on the water.s edge. Stone houses. Sitting
rooms with fireplaces. Flowerfilled courtyards. Cobbled
lanes. Byzantine churches and castles. Smudged
frescoes and tall towers. Painted archangels and
loopholes for shooting.
The more the visitor penetrates into this astonishing
land, the more he feels he wants to get to the heart of it,
to play with it. To breath the perfumed breeze that wafts
down from Taigetos or to go swimming in a delightful
cove. More towers and churches (Kardamili) and more
wild gorges (Diros) and after a while typical Mani towers
again and charming fishing villages and another
irresistible cove (Stoupa). On to shiny rocks and
fabulous caves (Katafighi), more churches and bell
towers (Thalames - Platsa) as the visitor continues.
24. Finikounda
25. One of the hundreds of Messinias fine
beaches
26. Messini
The Peloponnese 20
LACONIA
History
With the settling of the Dorians in the region (1100
BC), Sparta became the centre of the new colonists.
The laws and social structure change. Up till the time
of Alexander, Sparta and Athens were the most
powerful city-states in Greece. In 146 BC, Sparta
was subdued by the Romans. During the Byzantine
era, Laconia was a province of the Peloponnese and
suffered numerous attacks by barbarians. In the 13th
century, it fell to the Franks, only to return in 1262 to
the Byzantines who made their headquarters at
Mistras. Two centuries later (1460) the Turks
marched against Laconia and finally conquered the
district in the mid 17th century. The region of Mani
always retained its autonomy and privilege up to a
certain point. The area was liberated in 1828.
Laconian Mani
A barren land. Rocks, stone walls and prickly pears.
Hard stones, naked hillsides. Bays and coves torn by
the sea and the wind.
People harsh like stones. Maniots are very proud
human beings. Every so often at the edge of the sea
a small hamlet sprouts up. A series of mountain
villages higher up. The towers of Mani are well-
known. Made of stone by fearless souls. One tower
after the other.
Absolute silence on the way until you reach Itillo.
Deserted beaches to walk alone. Opposite stand the
ruins of the fortress of Kelefa. Farther on, at the foot
of a steep cliff lies the little harbour of Limeni with a
wonderful view.
High above looms Taigetos, its peaks forbidding and
inaccessible. The haunt of the goddess Artemis.
Areopoli. A harsh and remote landscape filled with
sharp rocks and white stones. It takes its name from
Ares (Mars), god of war. Honour and bravery. The
courage of the Maniots is legendary. Ancestral glory.
It echoes through the cobbled alleys of the city and
in the corridors of the Kapetanakos Tower.
Pirgos Dirou. There are towers everywhere. The
most famous of all is the one belonging to the
Sklavounakos family.
The Peloponnese 21
Diros caves, amongst the most impressive of the world.
Visitors can visit the cave by boat; trips having a duration
of approx 40 minutes. You will admire splendid colours,
stalactites and stalagmites forming figures in a tight
embrace.
Then comes the tiny bay Mezapos, dotted with ruined
towers. One looms above them all from its perch on a
high cliff, the ruined Castle of Mani, called Maina, which
gave its name to the peninsula. Nothing here but stones,
prickly pears and a few gnarled olive trees.
Gerolimenas. Some houses and a pier filled with
caiques. A friendly small taverna calls for rest and
relaxation, for calm and tranquility. To the north lie the
towers of Kita and Nomia. To the south the village of
Alika among the prickly pears.
Further on the steep cape of Kiparissos. There used to
be a temple to Poseidon there. The oracle and sanctuary
of the Laconians and the temples of Demeter and
Aphrodite. Still farther the small bay of Marmari and the
cave of Hades, where the descent to the Underworld
began. This is the cavern Orpheus braved in his search
for the lost Eurydice. Beyond lies Cape Tenaro or
Matapas with its huge lighthouse, followed by Porto
Kagio, a refuge for quail and storks. (These places can
be toured by car only with the assistance of a map or else
take the more usual route, a ride around the peninsula by
caique).
The road takes you through wheat fields and olive groves,
along knolls crested with towers. Next the high hilltop of
Vathia packed with gray towers. The towers of treasured
tradition. A refuge where peace and quiet reign.
In Mani Cretan influence is pronounced. Many Maniots
wear baggy breeches and head bandanas like the
Cretans. With their decorated jackets and midriffs tightly
swathed by heavy belts, tall and thin with thick
moustaches and eyebrows, they seem like heroes out of
a fairy tale when you encounter them on the road or in a
caf. And they have the same habits. They welcome you
to their homes with a glass of the same fiery raki, the
same preserves and the same cup of coffee. They differ
only in their songs and dances.
Here the need for comfort from the pain of death gave
birth to a unique form of folk poetry, the Maniot moirologia
or laments. These are whole poems that are sung at the
grave. They remind the lament of Andromache for Hector
or the dirge of Hecuba for her lost children, as well as
Byzantine threnodies.
Kotronas. A place with stone land and stone houses. A
traditional village. Ringed by a warm bay.
Skoutari, Kalivia, Passavas, Githio (Sparta.s port)
which reminds one of the islands. Boats are tied up along
the pier. The broadest of beaches. Houses, shops,
tavernas. Opposite lies Marathonisi (or Kranai), no longer
an island. Tradition maintains that this is where Paris
spent the night with the lovely Helen. Tzanetakis tower
(which houses
27. Mani. The traditional settlement of Vathia
28. The Diros Cave
29. Mt. Taigetos
30. Monemvasia, St. Sofia church
The Peloponnese 22
the Mani Ethnological Museum) stands in the centre of
the island. To the north, on a hill, lie the ruins of the
ancient acropolis. Githio has a small collection of
archaeological and Byzantine artifacts on view in the
Town Hall.
Central Laconia
Sparta (Sparti) is the capital of the prefecture. An
ordinary town, built in the middle of the Evrotas river
valley, on the same site where the ancient city stood. It
retains its original layout, with broad tree-lined streets,
parks and spacious squares, as well as many notable
buildings (such as the Town Hall, the Koumandareio
Picture Gallery, the Court of Law et al.). Some ruins
remain, those of the ancient acropolis, the sanctuary of
Artemis Orthia (6th c. BC), the tomb of Leonidas (5th c.
BC) and the Menelaion. The museum with findings
from the area is housed in a neoclassical building in
the centre of the town. The plain of Laconia spreads
out around Sparta, green and cool. A few kilometres
away is the ascent for Mount Taigetos. Snowy peaks
and precipitous rocks. Plateaus and ravines. Olive
groves on the gentler slopes. Poplars, willows and
plane trees line the banks of the Evrotas river.
Gardens of every shade of green.
And the series of villages continues. Some drenched in
chestnut trees (Anavrito) or enormous plane trees
(Karies) or perched in precarious spots - real eagles.
nests (Georgitsi). Some boasting castles and
Byzantine churches (Geraki, Vresthena, Vrondamas)
and others simply bucolic.
The Byzantine state of Mistras
Approaching Mistras (5 km from Sparta) the visitor
feels as though he is making a pilgrimage to Byzantine
Greece. Walking uphill, the Castroporta (the castle
gate) welcomes him for a walk through the narrow
lanes of this once invincible fortress.
The castle of Mistras was built by the Franks in 1249 in
their attempt to establish their supremacy over the
Peloponnese. Their catastrophic defeat at Pelagonia
(1259) forced them to hand over Mistras to the Greeks.
The Frankish prince Guillaume de Villehardouin
erected the castle. He built bastions for his knights,
houses, dungeons, storerooms, courtyards. As time
went by, houses were built on the hillside under the
Frankish castle, and a town was born whose fate was
to become the centre of civilisation and the cradle of
the last dynasty of the Byzantine emperors.
All the houses are two or three storied. With their
imposing vaulted roofs and arcades these mansions
lead up to the Palace, an architectural creation of the
Palaiologues. The throne room, the chapel with
vestiges of Byzantine frescoes, the rooms lighted by
large windows with ogival arches, are some of the
features of this building, the construction of which took
place in various periods,
according to the style prevailing in Constantinople.
During the two centuries that Mistras was the Byzantine
capital of the Peloponnese many churches and
monasteries with domes and chapels were erected,
where all the painting trends of the capital were
represented.
The most important monument on the way up - the first
one built - is the Cathedral of Agios Dimitrios. On the
floor of the church is the two-headed eagle, symbol of
the Palaiologos dynasty, carved into a plaque.
According to tradition, this is where Konstantinos
stepped when he was crowned King. Next to it stands
the carved throne.
In 1449, Konstantinos Palaiologos was crowned
emperor of Byzantium and he left Mistras for
Constantinople. In 1453 the Turks captured
Constantinople, and a few years later, in 1460, the
same fate befell Mistras. Mistras, that used to be the
brilliant capital of the Despotate of Morea, was reduced
to an insignificant village. The frescoes in the Cathedral
show a shining sky painted by very skilful hands. One
part of the church houses the Museum.
Towards the northern corner of the yard stand the two
most impressive churches of Mistras, those of Agii
Theodori and Panagia Odigitria, known as the
Afentiko. Its wall paintings hold you spellbound.
Near the highest gate of the castle stands the church of
Agia Sofia, while on the slope to the east is
Pantanassa monastery, built by the lords of the 15th
century. The church is impressive due to its elegance
and fine style. The frescoes are characterised by bright
colours and motion. Today Pantanassa is a hospitable
convent with clean cells looked after by gentle nuns, the
only living beings in Mistras. Strolling through the narrow
lanes of the dead city, the road leads to Perivlepto, the
monastery built under a rock with marvelous frescoes. It
is from here that the ascent to the castle begins.
Winding stairways, arcades, courtyards. Everything in
ruins: crumbling facades, turrets with ravaged openings,
damaged plaques, decayed mansions. At some point
the bare mountain appears. Below extends the endless
valley. In the front a steep path leads to the top of the
hill. In an impregnable position, its ramparts and
fortifications tower over the landscape. The security this
castle offered from foreign and local enemies was the
motive that made its bishops, lords, enlightened clerics,
founders of schools of philosophy, monks, artists,
writers and other men of intellect, like Pachoumius,
Nikephoros Moschopoulos and Gemistos Plethon
transform this town into a cradle of the Renaissance.
Southeastern Laconia
The farthest finger of the Peloponnese. The Laconic gulf
on the west, the Mirtoo sea on the east. Along both
coasts and at some distance from the sea there are
scattered villages. One beach after another and then an
even larger
The Peloponnese 23
one. Everything baked by the sun and basted by the
sea. On the southern coast of the peninsula, looking
onto the Mirtoo sea, stands the former Byzantine-
Venetian fortressstate of Monemvassia (Malvasia to
the Venetians) on its rocky promontory (95 km.
southeast of Sparta). From afar it looks like an island.
In Greek Monemvassia means .one entrance.: the long
causeway joining it to the mainland was and is the only
access to the rock.
Time stopped here in the Middle Ages. Castles and
ramparts, old mansions, little houses, narrow lanes
paved with stone slabs, churches with crumbling
facades, old low archways, semi-destroyed stairways.
Every little detail calls up memories of Byzantium and
the Venetians. Apses, escutcheons, imperial marble
thrones, more than forty Byzantine churches, the most
important of which are the 13th century cathedral of
Elkomenos Christos (Christ in Chains) and the church
of St. Sofia (13th c.), situated within the castle on top of
the rock, give the impression of an imaginary city,
untouched by modern times.
This magic of the past makes visitors envision princes
and emperors, knights and bishops.
North of Monemvassia the region of Zaraka is full of
medieval villages, built high in the mountains alongside
ruined castles, churches and houses, with names like
Harakas, Rihia, Gerakas (with one of the rare greek
fjords), Ag. Dimitris, Glotsoli and Kiparissi. 42 km.
from Monemvassia across the peninsula lies the
seaside market town of Neapoli, the last port of the
Spartans on the Laconic gulf. Beaches, bays, springs,
plane and walnut trees (Paradissi), caves lined with
stones that look like coloured woven fabrics
(Kastania), tavernas, cafs, people with warm smiles -
it would be easy to surrender to a life of nothing but
this.
Opposite Neapolis is the islet of Elafonissi, a dream
snatched from the South Seas. Swimming, fishing,
sand, sun, twilight, moonlight, octopus in red wine, fish
stew and seafood are the way of life here.
On the horizon beyond lies Kithira, the isle of Eros, the
legendary birthplace of the goddess Aphrodite (Venus).
From the first step on the island the visitor will discover
ancient temples, Byzantine churches and monasteries,
Venetian castles, caves with stalactites and
stalagmites and miniature lakes, villages with the
distinctive architecture of the Ionian islands, pebbly
beaches, sandy beaches, multicoloured shells,
greenery, hills and countless birds.
The boat stops its engine at Antikithira (24 nautical
miles south from Kithira), a barren rock in the middle of
the sea. The island is famous because the wonderful
statue of the Ephebos of Antikithira was found on the
island.s shores. In this place visitors spend days and
nights in the embrace of the sea, in the company of the
sun, moon and the sea breeze.
31. Areopolis. The Kapetanakos tower
32. Mani
33. Mani
34. Mistras. Pantanassa church
35. Mistras. The palace complex
The Peloponnese 24
ARCADIA
A mini-introduction
Arcadia is a closed land, full of mountains and high
peaks with large fir forests and lush vegetation. A
virgin land, not well known, full of surprises, truly
bewitching. On the eastern coast it is washed by the
gulf of Argos and the Mirtoo Sea. Here and there the
sea has carved fantastic bays and peninsulas. In fact,
whoever roams through Arcadia today will get to know
a part of the country that has remained virtually
unchanged since antiquity. Arcadia is a natural
wonderland whose mountain dwellers have preserved
it intact until today.
A historical flashback
The Arcadians are believed to be among the oldest
inhabitants of the Peloponnese. Initially divided into
tribes, they united after the first millennium and
founded great cities. After their subjugation by the
Romans (146 BC), the region fell into decline and
political insignificance. In 1205 the Franks conquered
Arcadia, founding baronies and erecting castles on the
hilltops. In 1330 Andronikos Palaiologos won
supremacy over the Franks. Arcadia was liberated in
1828.
The land of Arcadia
Leonidio, sea and lush plain, and behind it enormous
red rocks. Old mansions with courtyards and high
walled gardens. Houses with symmetrical windows
and skylights. Artfully designed chimneys. Painted
shutters. Decorated doorways. Stately houses with
wood-panelled floors and moulded ceilings. As you
stroll around you feel tradition coming alive with your
every step in this lovely town.
Holy Saturday in Leonidio. The bells toll in a festive
way. Firecrackers hiss and bang in the streets non-
stop. A .Judas. figure is burnt outside the churches.
Noise, commotion. Lights are carried from one
neighborhood to another. The skies aglow with the
beams of countless handmade .balloons.. On Easter
Sunday the festivities reach their peak. Roast meat,
wine, sweets, fritters, offered free to all comers, locals
and strangers. A gesture of traditional gentility.
Farther on theres Plaka, a charming little port with a
pebbly beach, shining next to the sea.
To the south, Poulithra, with its old stone houses and
marvelous beaches.
To the north, little bays. Sabatiki, Livadi, quaint
unforgettable fishing hamlets. Tiros beach. An enormous
expanse of sand and gleaming pebbles. Relaxation and
warmth. Just above it the beach of Agios Andreas. Dazing
azure seas. Fishing caiques and tavernas. Sky, sea and land
in endless serenity. Paralia Astros. White on a green and
blue background. Like a verse from a poem. Blue and the
slap of oars on the water. Shady trees and small picturesque
.tavernas.. The sweet smell of grilling octopus. A fisherman
untangling his net on the wharf. From here the road
branches off to the mountains, Mt. Parnon. The drive is
exciting, the countryside wild and unspoilt. Tiny villages,
farmhouses, Platanos, Prastos, Agios Petros, Kastanitsa
and farther south Kosmas. Cottages, manor houses, towers
and monasteries.The monasteries of Loukou, Elonas,
Palaiopanagia Eortakousti, Karia, John the Forerunner.
Awesome silent and strangely comforting. Lighted candles
and half-erased frescoes.
The mountains of Arcadia
Towering peaks, precipices and deep gorges. Rivers and
running brooks. Thick vegetation. Ancient cities, Byzantine
churches. Frankish forts. Towns, villages, traditional
settlements. Woodcutters, shepherds, carpenters, craftsmen
and masons. Mountain people, free and indomitable. Tripoli
is the capital of the prefecture. Built in the centre of a
wooded plateau, it is one of the most important agricultural,
commercial and transportation hubs in the Peloponnese. Of
special interest in Tripoli are the neoclassical buildings of the
Malliaropouleio Theatre, the Court of Law and the
Archaeological Museum (with finds from all over the area,
covering a period from the Mycenaean era up to the 2nd
century A.D.), as well as the Byzantine church of St. Basil
(on the square of the same name). Also, an attractive
neighbourhood with traditional one-storied houses spreads
around the impressive Areos square (with a bust of
Theodoros Kolokotronis, one of the leaders of the 1821
revolt against the Turks).
To the north is Levidi, a pretty village (alt. 800 m.), the
landscape all around is astonishing, a sea of green spruce
and fir as far as the eye can see.
The glory of antiquity and Byzantium. The monastery of
Epano Hrepas with frescoes of the Cretan School. Mandinia,
Tegea, Palladio, Assea, Orhomenos, ancient Arcadian
cities. Ruined walls, theatres, public buildings. The temple of
Athena Alea (370 BC). The monastery of the Virgin
Gorgoepikoos (10th c. with 16th c. frescoes). Megalopoli,
the ancient Great City. The agora, sanctuary of Zeus, theatre
(and a small museum in town). Leondari, Byzantine churches
and a ruined Frankish castle.
Likossoura, the sanctuary of the great goddess Despina
and of Demeter. (The local museum has copies of the cult
statues from the temple on exhibit in the National
Archaeological Museum in Athens).
Continuing, we arrive at the picturesque village Likeo, and a
little farther, Ano Karies, with plenty of walnut trees. From
this place, it is worthwhile to climb to the top of the Likeo
The Peloponnese 25
36. Dimitsana
37. Holy Monastery of Philosophos
38. Megalopolis, ancient theatre (370 B.C)
mountain. At an altitude of 1,200 m. there is a small plateau,
full of ruins of the sanctuary of Pan, of the Hippodrome and
Stadium. This is where the .Likea., games for children and
men, took place in honour of Zeus. A little higher there was a
big altar, where sacrifices were offered to Zeus. On a steep
slope is Isari village. Below the village is the small vaulted
church of Ag. Theodora, with frescoes from the 11th century,
on the roof of which huge trees have sprouted.
Karitena, the .Toledo of Greece., with stone houses, narrow
lanes, Byzantine churches, a Frankish castle.
Nearby Ancient Gortina and the Loussios river. The river
takes its name from the Greek word .louzo. = to wash or
bathe, because Zeus as a child was said to have bathed in its
waters. A walk along its banks is to experience a new
definition of beauty. The river is suitable for rafting and other
extreme sports.
Closeby is the monastery of the Prodromos with frescoes from
the 14th and 16th century. Down a ravine the monastery of the
Philosophos, with more Byzantine wall paintings. And the later
monastery of Aimialon with 17th century frescoes, wedged into
a mountainside.
Stemnitsa (alt. 1,100 m.). Old stone houses, Byzantine
churches, little cafs and tavernas, a lovely folklore museum,
the scenery greener than green. Dimitsana (alt. 1,000 m.),
with cobbled lanes, wooden balconies, tiled roofs. Respect for
local architectural tradition, an impressive library and folklore
museum. Churches and gunpowder mills. Two km. farther
south, in an enchanting scenery, is the open-air Hydrokinetic
Museum (one of the few in its kind in the world); a visit is a
must.
Loutra Iraias, forests of pine and fir. Mineral springs. Ruins of
ancient Heraia on the hillside. Vitina (alt. 1,060 m.). More fir
trees and fresh air. A wonderful climate. Beautiful countryside
and running brooks. A park for walks. Traditional cooking.
There are carved objects in original shapes and styles in the
shop windows, and every church has its own magnificently
carved icon screen. Twelve km. to the east, the Mainalos Ski
Centre, with two ski pistes, three ski lifts and chalets.
Magouliana (alt. 1,247 m.). Its old stone houses with red tiled
roofs dusted with frost on a winter afternoon. A Byzantine
castle overlooks the village. To the left Lagadia with its
impressive old mansions and venerable churches. To the right
Valtesiniko (alt. 1,150 m.) clinging to the mountainside,
covered in lush vegetation. Apple trees, walnut trees, poplars
and firs. A cup of coffee in the village caf with the locals is a
real pleasure. There is a woodcarvers. school in the village,
and many of the residents take up the craft. On a slope stands
the church of St. George (1830) with an octagonal dome,
scenes carved into the icon screen and other church furniture.
About 1 km. away is the church of the Dormition of the Virgin -
an old monastery church founded in 1625 with partially
destroyed frescoes. A stairway leads up to the cave which
conceals two churches, Agionikola and Analipsis, with
frescoes from 1570, embrasures and crypts.
The Peloponnese 26
THE ARGOLID
The magic of the shores of the Argolid, the bald
mountains, golden valleys, the grandeur of the
monuments and the eternal quality of its myths leave a
lasting impression. On this .flaming red Argive earth.
celebrated by the poet, .where the poppy flames still
brighter., are heard the most sublime voices of the
Greek land - Homer, Aeschylus, Sophocles.
History
The Argolid was the heart of Greece from 1600 to
1100 BC under the Mycenaeans. With their decline,
the Dorians controlled the fate of the region until the
conquest of the country by the Romans.
During the Byzantine era the Argolid shared the
fortune of the rest of the Peloponnese. It was ruled by
the Franks and surrendered to the Turks in 1460.
Nafplio, however, remained in Venetian hands until
1540. Nafplio was the capital of the newly formed
Greek state from 1828 to 1834, when this role passed
to Athens.
The district
In this little tour the approach to the district of Argos
starts in the south, at Arcadian Astros. The little
village of Mili is not far away. Ten km. farther to the
north are the ruins of ancient Lerna, where it is said
that Herakles killed the Hydra, a dragon with the body
of a snake and nine heads.
Driving through valleys filled with vineyards and olive
groves along the turquoise sea, the road leads to Nea
Kios, a coastal town built at the back of the bay of
Nafplio. Tranquility reigns on this sandy, shallow
seashore. Here on the last Sunday before Lent a
festival is held during which free food and wine are
offered.
The coast road continues on to Nauplia (Nafplio),
capital of the prefecture and one of the loveliest towns
of Greece. The old city with its neoclassic houses,
picturesque streets, wooden balconies with cascading
flowers, Turkish fountains, the central Constitution
(Syntagma) Square with fascinating mosques and
outdoor caf tables is like a fairy land. After centuries
of struggle, peace has finally settled. Visitors feel the
urge to immerse themselves in its history, fumbling the
elements of its past; to visit the old railway station,
Regent Mauer.s house, the Military Academy, - which
today operates
as a War Museum -, the Army Ministry, Greece.s first high
school, the Bouleutiko, the first Parliament House, St.
Spyridon.s, the church where Kapodistrias, the first governor
of Greece, was assassinated. And the fairy tale world
continues, whether you climb the 857 steps to the Venetian
fortress of Palamidi crowning the city, wander round the
battlements of Acronafplia (14th c.) or pop over to the
fortified islet Bourtzi (15th c.), afloat in the middle of the bay.
A new sight or sensation keeps coming across your path.
But Nafplio is also full of the joy of life with its little
restaurants on the waterfront, the open-air cinemas, bars
and music that every evening take you closer to the people,
the sea and the stars.
In Syntagma Square the Archaeological Museum, with its
findings from various periods and frescoes from Mycenae
(Mikines) and Assini, is housed in an imposing Venetian
building; the Folk Art Museum, on Vas. Alexandrou street,
occupies a neoclassical house, while on Staikopoulou Street
you will find the only Komboloi (worry-beads) Museum in the
world. Also, each year a very interesting music festival is
held in Nafplio.
By the sea
Leaving Nafplio the first seaside village is Tolo, situated on a
picturesque bay. Its seafood taverns overlook the water. You
take a bite and inhale the salt breeze. You listen to the
sound of the little motor boats chugging over to the islet of
Remvi opposite.
The more romantic travelers will want to head for Assini,
which inspired one of Nobel prize-winning poet George
Seferis. most beautiful poems. A sheer rock at the water.s
edge adorned with remnants of the distant past. Here stood
the acropolis of ancient Assini mentioned by the first Greek
poet, Homer.
Ten km. from Nafplio the road passes through the coastal
village of Drepano, surrounded by orange and lemon trees,
and Vivari, with its ruined Venetian castle. The view from
here is enchanting. Next the road leads on to the much
frequented villages of Kandia and Salandi, winding up in
Kilada, a peaceful fishing village at the head of a closed bay.
Just outside the village, one can see the large cave of
Frahthi where Mesolithic artifacts were found.
Not far from Kilada - inland - the farming town of Kranidi
stands out, spread out over the hillside of Agia Anna. The hill
is sprinkled with Byzantine monasteries.
Seven km. from Kranidi the road leads to Porto Heli, a
summer resort on a closed protected bay with a natural
harbour. Brightly painted caiques and trawlers, little sailboats
and motorboats repose in the harbour. Customers at the
seafood tavernas are ordering fried and grilled fish, shrimp,
octopus, and a big country salad. At midday Porto Heli is
humming with people. The shouts and laughter mingle with
the aromas wafting up from the coals.
Farther on are Kosta, Ermioni, Thermissia, Plepi, Metohi.
The Peloponnese 27
39. Nafplio - The Bourtzi
40. Mycenae. The Lions. Gate
41. Tolo
The Peloponnese 28
Taking the coast road north will bring you to lush
Galatas, with its many lemon trees, just a stone.s throw
from the Argosaronic island of Poros. The narrow strait
that separates them is alive with small boats ferrying
passengers between island and mainland.
Farther north, at the almost spherical peninsula of
Methana, lies the spa of that name, famous since
antiquity for its hot sulphurous and saline springs.
Methana.s waters are recommended for the treatment
of dermatological, rheumatoid and neurological
ailments. Visitors to Methana will find ample
accommodation, as well as numerous tavernas,
restaurants, bars and other tourist facilities. The
crystalline sea and lovely beaches attract holidaymakers
all summer long. The town is linked year round with
Piraeus by ferry and in summer by several hydrofoils
(from Zea marina) per day.
Tiryns
From Nafplio to Argos the road passes through a fertile,
verdant valley to arrive at the village of Tiryns.
The ruins of the fortress-palace of Tiryns lie just off the
road. Its cyclopean walls are older than those of
Mycenae. Homer mentions the .wall-girt. cities that took
part in the Trojan War.
Looking at these massive walls - the biggest boulders
weigh 13 tons each - one imagines that any attempt at
besieging them must have been vain.
Tiryns flourished up to 1200 BC, when the acropolis was
destroyed by fire. In the enclosure below the acropolis
are the famous tunnels (secret cisterns), among the
most interesting architectural achievements of the
period. The palace with the royal throne room at its
centre occupied the highest point on the acropolis.
Fragments of wall paintings testifying to the wealth and
luxury of the palace at Tiryns are on display in the
archaeological museums of Nafplio and Athens.
Argos, Midea, Mycenae
From Tiryns the road continues through the Argolid
valley to Argos itself.
Men and women are working in the fields, while earthy
odours and the buzzing of bees accompany you.
Farmers tending rickety roadside stands sell their wares
to passersby - juicy grapes, oranges and apricots,
depending on the season. The scenery alternates
between vineyards, olive groves and apricot orchards.
Today the historic Peloponnesian city of Argos is the
agricultural and commercial centre of the prefecture. Its
heyday was in the 7th century B.C., following the
destruction of Mycenae and Tiryns, when it became one
of the most powerful cities of Greece. Great works of
art, produced by the famous sculpture studios of the
town, decorated temples and sanctuaries. To the
northwest of the town, on Larissa hill, stands the
imposing citadel of Argos. The first fortifications were
built in the 6th c. B.C., later on improvements were
made by the Romans, while in the 13th- 14th centuries
the Franks gave it its present form. The view from up
there is magnificent. On the slope of Larissa hill is the
city.s ancient theatre, a great sample of the architecture
of the 3rd c. B.C., while some structures have been
added at a later date. Moreover, on the road to Tripoli
you will encounter the ancient agora as well as ruins
from Roman baths. In modern Argos, of interest are the
neoclassical buildings of the Municipal Market and the
Kapodistrias Army Barracks, the church of St. Peter,
several neoclassical mansions and the Archaeological
Museum with significant finds from the area.
South of Argos the road leads to Kefalari, a lush area
with several springs. The spreading plane trees, running
water and tavernas will hold you in their grasp for hours
by offering those simple Greek pleasures: shade, fresh
air, good food and relaxation.
To the east another road leads to the village of Agia
Triada, with its 12th c. Byzantine church, and from there
to the hamlets of Manesi and Dendra. From Dendra a
path takes you to the top of a hill and the Mycenaean
acropolis of Midea. Here too there are huge cyclopean
walls. According to myth, the walls at Mycenae
(Mikines), Tiryns and Midea were built by a tribe of men
descended from the Cyclops, creatures with
superhuman powers.
Nine km. outside Argos the road leads to the slopes of
Mt. Evvia where, built on an outcropping, stand the ruins
of the Heraion (Ireon), dedicated to Hera, one of the
most important sanctuaries of antiquity. In the
uncluttered beauty of the scenery, emotions and
memories connected with the worship of the goddess
still linger.
The Mycenaean treasure
The road leads from the Heraion to golden Mycenae
(Mikines). The acropolis reveals itself in the heart of a
landscape that is barren to the north, a bit tamer
towards the south. A gray mound of rock with the marks
of the Cyclops upon it. One has to touch these gigantic
slabs in order to comprehend the deep sense of security
they offered the Mycenaeans. Within these walls the
leaders heaped the booty from their extended wars,
gold and jewels, bowls and purple rugs.
Mycenae was the most powerful city-state in Greece up
to 1100 BC when it was destroyed by fire. Centuries
later the tragic poets Aeschylus and Sophocles brought
it back to life with the magic of their verses. One enters
the acropolis through the Lion Gate, the oldest sample
of monumental sculpture in Europe. A secondary
entrance, built in the same style, exists on the north
side.
Inside the walls excavations have uncovered the palace
complex, grave circle A with six royal tombs, courtiers.
houses, sanctuaries and other important buildings.
Outside the acropolis lie the ruins of private houses,
grave
The Peloponnese 29
42. Porto Heli.
43. Nafplio. The Palamidi Fortress
44. The theatre of Epidavros
The Peloponnese 30
circle B with fourteen royal tombs and twelve tombs of
private citizens. On the nearby hill of Panayitsa
archaeologists brought to light the most stunning
edifice of Mycenaean architecture, the Treasure of
Atreus, also known as the beehive tomb of
Agamemnon.
Most of the more exceptional findings from the site are
on display in the local Archaeological Museum and the
National Archaeological Museum in Athens. These
include frescoes, gold jewellery, and the gold mask
said to have belonged to Agamemnon, among other
priceless pieces.
Epidaurus
The road from Nafplio to Epidaurus (Epidavros)
passes through vineyards and age-old olive groves
with the mountains looming hazily in the distance,
except Mt. Arahneo, which rises directly above
Epidaurus. Arahneo - that.s just how Aeschylus called
it in his tragedy, Agamemnon.
The breeze carries waves of sweet fragrances from
the woods, resin and turpentine. On a hillside, within
the sanctuary, lies the theatre of Epidaurus (3rd c.
BC), the most famous and best preserved of all the
ancient theatres in Greece. Built of limestone, it can
seat 12,000 spectators. Every summer it comes alive.
Attending a performance of ancient drama in this
theatre is an almost mystical experience. At Epidaurus
the actors don.t need to shout or speak loudly. The
acoustics are so perfect that the merest whisper can
be heard in the last row.
The entrance to the sanctuary lies to the north of the
theatre. Asklepios was worshipped here. Though he
was a god, Zeus struck him down with his thunderbolt
because he wanted to eliminate death. Among the
ruins, one can see the foundations of the temple of
Asklepios (Doric, 4th c. BC), the guest house, the
Tholos, the Abaton or sleeping porch, the temples of
Artemis and Themis, the gymnasion, etc. The museum
is near the entrance to the site and contains various
artifacts plus a helpful model of what the sanctuary
must have looked like.
The town of ancient Epidaurus occupied the same
location as the present village of Palia Epidavros (Old
Epidaurus), a seaside settlement with the Small
Theatre of Ancient Epidaurus (4thc. BC) and a small
harbour, nestled in a plain thick with olive and orange
trees, rimmed with scenic beaches and several
tavernas. Seven km. farther north, at the foot of Mt.
Akros, the road arrives at Nea Epidavros (New
Epidaurus), an inland village, and then proceeds
several kilometres on to the lonely monastery of
Agnounda with its Byzantine frescoes.
West of Nea Epidavros is Ligourio, a modern market
town much frequented by tourists. There are taverns
everywhere you look, and coaches, cars and
motorbikes. Over the wind waft tempting smells of
roasting lamb and kokoretsi. Theatre buffs and lovers
of archaeology from all over the globe gather here to
eat and chat under a starry sky.
USEFUL INFORMATION
GREEK NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANISATION
(G.N.T.O.)
Head office
7, Tsoha str., 115 21 Athens
Tel.: +30 210 8707.000
Website: www.visitgreece.gr, e-mail: info@gnto.gr
Information office
26A, Amalias Ave., Syntagma, Athens
Tel.: +30 210 3310.640, +30 210 3310.716, fax: +30 210
3310.392
Information office at .El. Venizelos. Airport (arrivals hall)
Tel.: +30 210 3530.445-447
REGIONAL INFORMATION OFFICES
-Patras: 26, Filopimenos str., tel. : 2610 620353, 2610 621891,
fax : 2610 620125
e-mail : eotpa@spark.net.gr
-Kalamata: Aristomenous & 6, Polyviou str. . 1st floor, tel.:
27210 86868
-Gythio: 20, Vas. Georgiou str., tel.: 27330 24484
-Nafplio: 2, 25th March str., tel.: 27520 24444
-Tripoli: 21-23, Ermou str., tel.: 2710 238009, fax: 2710 230287,
e-mail: pyt_tripolis@gnto.gr
TOURIST POLICE STATIONS in main cities
-Kalamata: tel.: 27210 44680-1
-Corinth: tel.: 27410 23282
-Nafplio: tel.: 27520 28131
-Patras: tel.: 2610 695191, 2610 695 072
-Sparta : tel.: 27310 20492
-Tripoli: tel.: 2710 230542
-Pirgos: tel.: 26210 37111
HOW TO GET THERE
-By rail: Information on train routes and schedules: tel.: 1110
-By bus: From Athens to all Peloponnese destinations, buses
run by K.T.E.L.
Athens terminal: 100, Kifissou str., information tel.: 210
5124.910-11
By plane : Flights from Athens to and from Kalamata and
Kithira.
Olympic Airlines: (Athens) tel.: 210 9666.666, (Kalamata)
tel.: 27210 22376, (Kithira) tel.: 27360 33688, 27360 33292
By boat:
A) Piraeus . Kithira (Diakofti) . Antikithira . Crete (Kastelli)
Information: Piraeus Port Authority, tel.: 1440
B) By hydrofoil from Piraeus (Akti Poseidonos) to Leonidio .
Kiparissi . Geraka . Monemvassia . Kithira and to
Methana . Ermioni . Porto Heli
Information: tel.: 210 4124.585, 210 4199.200
C) From Kilini to Kefalonia: tel.: 26230 92211
From Kilini to Zakinthos (Zante): tel.: 26230 92211
D) From Patras to Ithaki, Corfu, Kefalonia: tel. 2610 361470,
2610 341002
Information: Patras Port Authority: tel.: 2610 341002
Patras is connected by sea with the following ports of Italy:
The Peloponnese 31
Ancona, Brindisi, Bari, Venice and Trieste.
Information: Patras Port Authority: tel.: 2610 361470-1,
2610 341002
E) From Central Greece (Andirio) you can reach the
Peloponnese by the Rio-Andirio (toll) bridge or by small
ferryboats which maintain a regular service (duration of
voyage approx. 15 min.)
ORGANISED TOURS
Visitors have a choice of organised tours starting from
Athens to all places of interest in the Peloponnese. For
details, please contact any travel agency or G.N.T.O.
SPAS
- Loutraki Spa, tel.: 27440 22215
- Kilini Spa, tel.: 26230 96267, 26230 96270
- Kaiafa Spa, tel.: 26250 31705, 31709-10
- Methana Spa, tel.: 22980 92243, 22980 92079
CAVES
- Diros Cave, Laconia, tel.: 27330 52222-3, 27330 52233
(museum)
- Kastria, Achaia, tel.: 26920 31633, 26920 31001
SKI CENTRES
- Mainalo, tel.: 27960 22227, 2710 232243
- Helmos, tel.: 26920 22174, 26920 22661
MUSEUMS AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES
Argos
Archaeological Museum, tel.: 27510 68819
Corinth
- Archaeological Museum, tel.: 27410 31207, 27410 31480
- Folk Art Museum, tel.: 27410 71690
Ilida
Museum & archaeological site, tel.: 26220 41415
Kalamata
Archaeological Museum, tel.: 27210 26209
Epidaurus (Epidavros)
Museum & archaeological site, tel.: 27530 22009
Mavromati
Museum, tel.: 27240 51201
Methoni
Venetian castle, tel.: 27230 22010
Mycenae (Mikines)
Museum & archaeological site, tel.: 27510 76585
Mistras
Museum & archaeological site, tel.: 27310 83377
Nafplio
- Archaeological Museum, tel.: 27520 27502
- Palamidi Fortress, tel.: 27520 28036
- Folklore Museum, tel. : 27520 28379
- War Museum, tel. : 27520 28379
- Komboloi (Worry-beads) Museum, tel.: 27520 21618
Nemea
Museum & archaeological site, tel.: 27460 22739
Olympia
- Archaeological site, tel.: 26240 22517
- Museum, tel.: 26240 22742, 26240 22529
- Historical Museum of Olympic Games, tel.: 26240 22544
Pilos
- Museum, tel.: 27230 22448
- Nestor.s Palace, tel.: 27230 31437, 27230 31358
(museum)
Sikiona
Museum and archaeological site, tel.: 27420 28900
Sparta
Museum, tel.: 27310 28575
Tiryns
Archaeological site, tel.: 27520 22657
Tripoli
Museum, tel.: 2710 242745
FESTIVALS
- Epidaurus Festival
Information: .Hellenic Festival. box office, 39
Panepistimiou str., Athens, tel. 210 9282.900
Epidaurus theatre, information: tel.: 27530 22026
- Musical July (Small Epidaurus Theatre)
Information: .Hellenic Festival. box office, 39
Panepistimiou str., Athens, Tel. 210 9282.900
Small Epidaurus Theatre, information: tel.: 27530 22096
TRADITIONAL GUEST HOUSES
Kapetanakos Tower (Areopoli), tel.: 27330 51233
ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation of every kind is to be found all over the
Peloponnese. For further information, inquire at the local
Information Offices, police stations and town halls. For
reservations contact XENEPEL, 24, Stadiou Str., 105 64
Athens, tel.: +30 210 3237.193, e-mail:
grhotels@otenet.gr.
Also visit www.visitgreece.gr.
Note: Information is subject to changes
Enjoy the Greek countryside. Safeguard its
rich plant and animal life from harm. Protect
its forests . nature.s lungs . from devastation
by fire. Keep its beaches clean.
Nr. 8 . March 2006 . Published by the Greek National Tourism
Organisation . Publications and Audiovisual Means dept. . Text: P.
Kouvelakis . Design and Layout: I. Petala . Photos: (1) I. Vacharides
. (2, 27): R. Parissis . (3, 6, 12, 21): I. Yanelos . (4, 41): P.
Katsoyannos . (5, 14, 15, 16, 18, 30, 33, 35, 42, 44): N. Kontos . (7,
9, 11, 20, 37, 38): M. Stefosi . (8): I. Skouroyannis . (13): TAP* -
(10): N. Mavroyenis . N. Kontos . (17): Driva . (19, 23, 24, 26): A.
Mavroyeni . (22, 32): N. Desyllas . (28, 43) : E. Papapanagopoulos .
(34, 36) : G. Kouvaris . Printed in Greece by Vivliosynergatiki A.E.
*T.A.P.: The Archaeological Receipts Fund
The Peloponnese 32