1st Step

Prepare the fabric booking : After approval of fit sample & received the final PO
sheet from buyer, pattern/cutting section will make a correct pattern set of all the
sizes. In middle class factory normally merchandiser do the consumption with the
help of cutting master after placed the pattern of on marker paper. In this
regards please always remember one thing if the orders qty is with size wise ratio
then you must consider it during the making marker with pattern. I will discuss more
details regarding the marker in near future. After get the consumption & dia
confirmations merchandiser will booked the fabric and hand over the color &
construction wise fabric break up sheet to fabric department. During this
merchandiser should provide them all the lab dip approval with other instructions.
Please also booked the collar & cuff.
2nd Step
Prepare the Accessories booking: In same time of booking the
fabric merchandiser also should booked the accessories. Merchandiser should ensue
that, the store will receive all the sewing accessories before in house of the the
fabric. Sewing accessories means - Sewing thread, main/size label, care label, tape
etc. Merchandiser should always follow up the sewing production because when a
minimum qty will be output he should try to book the finishing accessories like as Poly, Carton etc. Before booked the poly & back board he must confirm the folding
way with buyer. Also merchandiser should take approval of shipping mark, sticker &
carton quality from his buyer. Some others accessories like as - hang tag, hang tag
string, thinner, spot lifter, inter lining, he must booked these at the same time of
fabric booking. After received these trims he should make a trim card and distribute
to all the sections. Store department should count & check the quality of all the
accessories before start sewing production and also provide a inventory report to
merchandiser.
3rd Step
Production planning: After placing all the booking he should discuss with the
planning for a production planning. Maximum middle class factory do not follow this
procedure.
4th Step
Quality check of fabric: After receive the fabric from dyeing the fabric Q.C
department will check the color shade, Gsm, dia, shrinkage, twisting etc
and acknowledged the merchandiser accordingly. The fabric q.c team will also check
the count the collar & check the others quality. A middle class factory need a strong
quality team for fabric because normally they do the dyeing in others factory.
5th Step
Fabric Cutting: After receive the green signal from fabric q.c team and
merchandiser, cutting section will be start trial cutting at first. At the same time
cutting section will check the consumption again in real fabric. They will confirm to
the merchandiser that how pcs they can be able to cut from the received fabric. It is
very important because some time we need extra fabric due to the increased of

fabric GSM. Merchandiser should re booked the short qty fabric if needed.
6th Step
Size set & PP sample: After received the bulk fabric production section will make
size set sample and check the measurement & shrinkage of fabric. After checking
the size set sample they will adjust the pattern and will be make a pre production
sample for buyer approval. During the size set sample production department will
setup the line layout. Step 5th & 6th will be done at the same time.
7th Step
Sewing Section: As in our following this style has no print & embroidery so the cut
fabric will be go to input section directly. Merchandiser should sit for a PP meeting
with production department with the approved trim card, PP sample, Accessories in
house report. Production department should discuss with planning department for
production target.
a) Placket Making: Production supervisor will made the placket by the help of
sewing operator. At first they will fused the fabric with interlining in fusing machine.
After that, they will cut the fabric by use of the pattern of placket. After that, they
will marked the placket fabric & stitch with a plain machine.

b) Pocket Joint: In between of the placket making we will attached the pocket with
body by use of a plain machine. Regarding the pocket please be careful about
placement of pocket. Sometimes sewing operator sew it slanted & wrong position.

c) Placket Make & Joint : After making the placket & joint the pocket with body,
the body has goes to next plain machine operator to attached the placket with
body. Here normally we used two plain machine.

d) Shoulder Joint: After the placket joint we joint the shoulder (front & back part)
by use of a over lock machine.

e) Shoulder Top Stitch: After shoulder joint we put a top stitch over the shoulder
by use of another plain machine.

f) Collar tack & Joint : After the shoulder top stitch at first we tack the collar by
use a plain machine then we join the collar with body by use of a over lock machine.

g) Back tape joint: After collar joint we joint the back tape in the flat lock machine
by used of folder.
h) Placket Top stitch: After back tap joint we put placket top stitch by use two
plain machine.

i) Placket Box: After the top stitch of placket we make the placket box by use of
plain machine.

j) Main/size label attachment: After the placket box making we attached the
main/size label inside the back tape by use of plain machine.

k) Sleeve rolling/ sleeve hem: In the mean time we roll the or hem the sleeve
with flat lock machine.
l) Sleeve joint: Now we will joint the sleeve with body by use of over lock machine.

m) Side seam joint: After these operations we joint the both side seam of body &
sleeve by use of over lock machine. We also attached the care label in between this
operations.

n) Bottom hem: After the side seam joint we hem the bottom by use of a flat lock
machine.

o) Sleeve (opening)Tack: After these process we put a tack in sleeve opening.

p) Button Hole: Then we make hole on the placket by use of button hole machine.
In this regards please note that button hole will be little bit smaller then the button
dia (ligne). Also be noted top button hole will be horizontal where as the others
button hole will be vertical. However, you should confirmed it with your buyer.
q) Button Stitch: After button hole we will be attached the button with placket by

use of button stitch machine. Please note that, many time buyer asked for extra
button. If needed then we will also stitched a button with the body.
Machine Wise Sewing Operation (knit Items)
Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion Design.
Some Common Machine wise Sewing Operations.

From my this post you will got a common list of sewing operations based on knitted
items.

Plain Machine
1. Placket Rolling
2. Placket Box
3. Nose Tack

4. Neck Tack
5. Sleeve Tack
6. Neck Rib Tack
7. Collar Top Stitch
8. Neck Top Stitch
9. Pocket Join
10.Side Band Top Stitch
11.Label Join.

Over Lcok Machine

1. Shoulder Join
2. Sleeve Join
3. Side Seam

4. Neck Join

Flat Lcok Machine

1. Shoulder Top Stitch
2. Armhole Top Stitch
3. Neck Top Stitch
4. Sleeve Rolling
5. Bottom Hemming

Please be informed that, the above list is not a complete list.

Trims: During the making and exporting process of a garment we use many kinds
of items other then Fabric, Print & Embroidery. We called these items as trims. Trims
cover all the items used in the garment except the basic fabric. There are hundreds
of items used to manufacture the garments, Proper selection of trims and its quality
are very important for styling, otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned
by the customers.
Please find below a short list that covers some names of the trims:
1. Sewing thread: The main & most common trims are sewing thread. Normally
buyer asked the matching color sewing thread. In garments production normally we
used 100% spun polyester thread, 100% cotton thread, Filament thread etc. The
polyester thread shade is color fastness. Tensile strength. Elasticity, Shrinkage,
Moisture Regain, abrasion, Resistance etc these are some quality of sewing thread.
50/2 is the most common count sewing thread normally we use it in T-shirt. 40/2 &
40/3 count sewing thread is also available in market. Normally we use these thicker
thread in heavy garment like as sweat shirt, jacket, trouser etc. The price of 40/2
yarn is higher than 50/2.
2. Zipper: From the zipper factory we can get various kind of zipper. We can
categorize the zipper by following points as mentioned below
a) Teeth: Nylon teeth, Vislone teeth, Metal teeth etc.
b) Color: Tape color, Teeth color.
c) Size: #3, #5 & #8 etc.
d) Function: Auto lock, Semi auto lock, Hidden zipper, reversible, Open end (O/E),
Close End (C/E) etc.
e) Length: As per requirement 18 cm, 66 cm etc.
3. LABELS: Main, Size, Care (Polyester care label & Nylon or paper care label),
Content, price, patch etc
4. BUTTON : Pearl plastic button, 02 hole button, 03 hole button, 04 hole button,
custom button shape, Horn button, Shang button, Metal button, logo button, non
logo button etc.

5. ELASTIC : Cotton elastic, Polyester elastic, 400 denier, 700 denier, 1 cm width,
1.5 cm width, 3 cm width etc.
6. EYELET : Antique, Matching color, Matt silver, Antique Silver, 22 mm dia, with
logo or w/o logo, emboss logo, engraved logo etc.
7. SNAP BUTTON: Snap button, press button, 4 part snap button, male part of snap
button, female part of snap button, antic color, Silver color, matching color.
8. VELCRO : Hook & Pile, Matching color.
9. STRING/CORD : Cotton, Polyester etc.
10. PLASTIC CLIP
11. Tag pin: Clr White, black, transparent, 3 cm, 6 cm, 8 cm, 12 cm etc.
12. TAGS : Price tag, Hand Tag, Brand Tag etc.
13. STICKER : Hook & Pile etc.
14. HANGER: BDS hanger, t-hanger, 28 cm, 34 cm, Transparent, Semi transparent,
Solid color etc.
15. Hanger size ring: Size ring of hanger, Size print etc.
16. POLYBAG (0.80 mm) : Strength : Chemical Mixture. Thickness (micron/mm:
1mm = 1000 micron) Elasticity Transparent, LDPE (Low Density Poly Ethylene), PP
(Poly Propylene), Adhesive, with hole, warning, size, recycle logo etc.
17. BLISTER BAG (.05 mm): Loaded capacity is higher than polybag
18. SCOTCH TAPE
19. GUMTAPE: With logo print, none logo, Khaki color, transparent color.
20. CARTON: 3ply, 5ply, Size (L,W. H), gum pasting, PP belt, metal stitching, divider,
bottom, shipping mark etc.
21. Interlining : Crash lining, soft lining, Hard lining etc.
22. Silica: For controlling the moisture in the carton.
23. Shoulder tape: Cotton, Polyester etc.
Above list just for a Idea not a complete list.

How to Make Line Loading Plan for Garment Production?

33
Home > Production Planning
In Line loading plan planner decides on which date a style to be loaded and how
many lines to be considered for the style to meet the production completion date.
Line loading plan is an important task for a production planner. Planner needs to do
backward and forward planning based on lead time. In this article I will explain how
to make line loading plan and what things are important during making a loading
plan. Explanation is given step by step in the following with examples. There is lot of
mathematical calculation. So, I will suggest you to use spreed sheet for the making
the plan.
Step 1: Make a list of current orders with details such as order no., order quantity,
style description, and production completion date. Refer to the Table-1. Suppose
order has been received on the month March and production completion date on
May from 4th to 21st.
Table- 1: Order list
Order
Garment
No.
Description
OCS101
OCS102
OCS103
GAP104
GAP105
GAP106
GAP107
GAP108

Order
Production
Quantity
completion date
(pieces)
Dress
200010th May
Blouse
300012th May
Trouser
500015th May
Long sleeve Tee
300017th May
Skirt
300021st May
Dress
150021st May
Long sleeve Tee
1000010th May
Skirt
120004th May
Total
28,000

Step 2: Suppose a factory has 5 production lines. Calculate available capacity of

the line using capacity calculation formula considering absenteeism (10%) and line
efficiency %. You should have knowledge about line wise production efficiency to
calculate actual capacity of a line. Or calculate it prior to line loading plan.

Available capacity in hours = {(No. of operators/machines x working days in a

month x daily work hours x 60) absenteeism %} x Efficiency %
Line wise available capacity has been shown in the Table-2. It is considered that
each line is equipped with 25-32 machines (operators), factorys normal shift time is
8 hours (480 minutes) and line efficiency is in the range of 39% to 55%.
Table- 2: Available capacity calculation
Line No. of
Minutes/Day Line
Absenteeis Capacity
No. Operator (Daily
Efficiency m %
available
working Hrs.
X 60)
Line 30
480
40%
10%
1
5184.0
Line 28
480
50%
10%
2
6048.0
Line 32
480
55%
10%
3
7603.2
Line 32
480
45%
10%
4
6220.8
Line 25
480
39%
10%
5
4212.0
Step 3: Next, calculate required capacity for each order (style) in minutes and in
days. Assume that above 8 styles to be run in 5 lines and styles will be loaded only
in single line. Consider that all lines blank and you have no issue with starting date.
In this stage you have to also decide which line to be chosen for the styles. Allocate
order to the line according to product category and line set up (machines laid). In
Table-3 line number has been mentioned against the order number. Use the
following formula for the calculation.
Capacity required in minutes = Order Quantity X Style SMV
Capacity required in days = Capacity required in minutes / Capacity available per
day.
Refer to the table-3 for calculated minutes and days required for each style.
Table-3: Required capacity calculation
Order Loaded Order
Style Capacity Capacity Capacity
No.
to Line Quantity SMV Required available Required
No.
(Minutes) per day (Days)
OCS1
01
OCS1
02
OCS1
03
GAP1

Line-1

2000

28

Line-2

3000

25

Line-3
Line-4

5000
3000

56000

5184

11

75000

6048

12

100000
30000

7603.2
6220.8

13
5

20
10

04
GAP1
05
GAP1
06
GAP1
07
GAP1
08

Line-5

3000

18

Line-1

1500

28

Line-4

10000

10

Line-5

1200

54000

4212

13

42000

5184

100000

6220.8

16

21600

4212

18

Step 4: Now do backward calculation to find the date for style loading. Days
needed to complete production on due date, Sundays and holidays must be
excluded in day count. And add one to two days initially for line setting according to
style requirement. If required, you can add buffer for one to two days. To make it
easy in calculating the loading dates considering above points use spreadsheet
based planning board. For example refer to the following image-1. I have made
loading plan on the planning board for theses styles. Light blue colored columns
represent Sunday (weekly off days). Finally make another table (Table-4)
representing loading date against orders.
Image-1: Planning Board

Table-4: Order loading date

Order Garment Loaded Production Capacity Loading Comments
No.
Descriptio to Line completion Required date
n
#
date
(Days)
OCS1
01
OCS1
02
OCS1
03
GAP1
04
GAP1
05

Dress

Line-1 10th May

Blouse

Line-2 12th May

Trouser

Line-3 15th May

Long
Line-4 17th May
sleeve Tee
Skirt
Line-5 21st May

26th
11April
27th
12April
28th
13April
11th
5May
135th May

GAP1
06
GAP1
07
GAP1
08

Dress

Line-1 21st May

Long
Line-4 10th May
sleeve Tee
Skirt
Line-5 04th May

11th
8May
21st
16April
28th
5April

Step 5: Once you gone through this article, practice this with some of your real
styles. I wish you can make it. If you feel you need further assistance then write us.