Fabric Inspection
Jimmy K.C. Lam
The Hong Kong Polytechnic
University
Fabric Inspection
Why, when and where
Inspection Systems
Four-Point System
Ten-Point System
Inspection Condition
Sampling
Acceptance Level
Fabric Inspection (I)
When, why, where
Producer likes to know the quality of his
products (says quality for 500,000 yds
fabric)
Buyer wants to assure the product
quality he ordered.
10% check will give buyer some ideas
of his product quality
25% check maybe necessary for new
Fabric Inspection (II)
Fabric inspection must be selected
randomly
The fabric sample must be selected
from different place, different lot and
different time
Inspector must use a packing list and
select different bales on different place
The samples should be selected from
Inspection Standards
Ten Point System
Oldest and most used in woven finished
fabric
Four point System
Widely adopted and used in knitted fabric
The Graniteville78 System
major and minor types, used in garment
pieces
Ten Point System
Ten Point System
The earliest inspection system and is
designed to identify defects and to
assign each defect a value based on
severity of defect
Published in 1955 by Textile Distributors
Institute and National Federation of
Textiles
Ten Points System
(Woven)
Warp Defects
10-36 inches 10 points
5-10 inches 5 points
1-5 inches 3 points
up to 1 inch 1 point
Weft Defects
Full width 10 points
5 inches to half width 5 points
1-5 inches 3 points
up to 1 inch 1 point
Ten Point System
Standards for examination of finished
goods (woven mainly)
Penalties to be assigned for
imperfection of warp and weft defects
Grading is designed to apply to every
imperfection according to size,
regardless of type.
For print cloth, any piece of grey which
contains less than 50% more penalty
Ten Point System
(Note)
No one yard should be penalized more
than 10 points
Any warp or weft defect occurring
repeatedly throughout the entire piece
makes it second
A combination of both warp and weft
defects when occurring in one yarn
should not be penalized more than 10
Ten Point System
Grading
First Quality
A piece is graded as first if the total quality points
do not exceed the total yardage of the piece. Eg.
100 yard piece got the penalized of 70.
Second Quality
A piece is graded a second if the total
penalty points exceed the total yardage of
the piece.
Four Point System
Four Point System
It was published in 1959 by the National
Association of Shirt Pajama Sportswear
Manufacturers
It got the biggest support for American
Society for Quality Control.
It was endorsed by federal government
for military inspection and American
Apparel Manufacturers Association
Four Point Systems
Knitted Fabric
Grading of fabric quality according to penalty
points
Penalty points are based on the length of
defects measured in inch.
Fabric inspection is only on one side of fabric
and is based on fabric width of 64-66 inches
(knitted fabric)
Four penalty points per linear yarn up to
64/66 inches in width
Four Point Systems
(others)
All products sold must be have the
following properties:
Grey Goods:
construction
blend
width
weight
Finished Goods
Buyer must inform seller on any
Calculation
Points per 100 square yards =
(Total points scored X 3600)/ (Cloth width in
inches X yards examined)
e.g inspected 100 yards fabric and got
100 penalty points,fabric width is 72
inches, the points per 100 square yards
is :
(100X3600)/(72X100) =50
The Graniteville 78 System
Graniteville78 System
It was introduced in 1975 for the field of
fabric grading.
The system divided defects into major
and minor types
The major defect was one which was
very obvious and lead the goods to
second quality
The minor defect was one may or may
78 System Point
Penalty Point Assignment of
Graniteville78
Defect Length Penalty Points
9 1
9-18 2
18-27 3
27-36 4
78 Points- Notes
The principle was established in garment
cutting piece, which the short length
defects (less than 9) will normally be
removed.
The system tries to balance the
importance of longer defects (over 9)
and put less weight on 1-10 defects
such as slubs
The system also suggests the viewing
