Fabric inspection
Sk, Nift
• The quality of a final garment depends on the
quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll.
• Even the most outstanding manufacturing
methods cannot compensate for defective
materials.
• inspect 10% of the rolls received and evaluate
them based on a four-point system.
• can avoid fabric related quality problems before
it is put into production
• Fabric inspection focuses on fault/defect rate,
colour, end to end and edge to middle shading,
hand/handle and appearance.
• The client will select the appropriate fault rate
and standard to determine the acceptance of
each shipment.
• This will minimize the quantity of panels or
garments rejected for fabric faults, thereby
ensuring the quality of the finished goods.
• Fabric inspection is also considered as
preproduction inspection for garments or other
textile products.
The following aspects are assessed:
• • Colour
• • Fabric faults
• • Shading
• • Length
• • Usable width
• • Fabric hand/handle
• • Appearance
• • Packaging
• • Quantity
• The inspection and grading of fabric quality is
one of the important functions of Quality Control
in the grey or finished state, the grading of fabric
is a difficult task, taking two primary
considerations: as the frequency of effects and
the seriousness of defects.
• The grading has two primary functions: First, to
classify the fabrics according to standard
qualities based on the end-use and costumer
demands, and second, to supply information as
to the qualities actually being produced.
4-point system
• Point grading system for determining fabric quality
• Fabric flaws and defects are assigned point values
• Selection
• Amount to select: Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls of
the shipment.
• Selection of rolls: Select at least one roll of each color. If
more than one role must be selected, then choose the
additional roles in proportion to the total number of roles
per color received.
• This is issued by The American Society for
Testing and Materials with reference to the
designation: ASTM D5430-93.
• Faults are scored with penalty points of 1,
2, 3 and 4 according to their size and
significance.
• Length of defect in fabric, either or width points allotted
Up to 3 in. 1
Over 3 in. to 6 in. 2
Over 6 in. up to 9 in 3
Over 9 in. 4
Holes and openings
1 in. or less 2
Over 1 in 4
• Total defect points per 100 square yards
More then 40 points - Seconds
• The length of the defect is used to
determine the penalty point. Only major
defects are considered. No penalty points
are assigned to minor defects. (A major
defect is any defect that would cause a
final garment to be considered a second.)
• Major Defects:
• Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to
slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn variation, end out,
soiled yarns, and wrong yarn.
• Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye
spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, or shading.
• Acceptance Criteria and Calculation:
• · 40 points per 100 sq.m / yards is the acceptable defect
rate
• ·Points per 100 sq.m = (Total no.of penalty points x fab
length mm) / (fab width mm x total meters inspected)
Inspection Procedure:
• · Determine the amount to inspect 10%).
• · Select the rolls to inspect.
• · Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.
• · Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the end of the roll. Mark
the right and left side of the strip. Stop the inspection process every
50 yards and use the strip to check for any shading problems. Also
make sure to check the end of the role.
• · Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough
to find the defects. (The fabric must be checked at a slow rate in
order to effectively find flaws). Sometimes you may have to turn the
light off to see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a garment.
• · Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the
piece goods source.
• · Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric.
• · Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be
easily found and noted.
• · Record any defects.
American vs Japanese
• Basic difference between American and
Japanese 4 point system is points per
defects. Japanese 4 point system was
introduced earlier and this system contains
some soft attitude for the seller. American
4 point system was introduced after the
Japanese system and it is more strict than
any other inspection system.
Ten-Point System
• In 1955, the Ten-Point System for piece
goods evaluation was approved and
adopted by the Textile Distributors Institute
and National Federation of Textiles. This
system assigns penalty points to each
defect, depending on its length. The Ten-
Point System is somewhat complicated
because points-per-length vary for warp
and filling defects.
Warp Defects Penalty Filling Defects Penalty
• 10-36 inches 10 points Full width 10 points
• 5-10 inches 5 points 5 inches - 1/2 the
width of goods 5 points
• 1-5 inches 3 points 1-5 inches 3 points
• Up to 1 inch 1 point
• Under the Ten-Point System, a piece is
graded a "first" if the total penalty points
do not exceed the total yardage of the
piece. A piece is graded a "second" if the
total penalty points exceed the total
yardage of the piece.
• The Four-Point System has received the
widest acceptance in both the textile and
needle trades because it is the most
lenient. It is simple and easy to
understand.
• http://jhqyq.2008red.com/jhqyq/article_303
_1860_1.shtml
DALLAS SYSTEM
• There is also a Dallas System published in
the 1970's. That system was developed
specifically for knits. According to this
system, if any defect was found on a finished
garment the garment would then be termed a
second. In regard to fabric, this system
defines a second as "more then one defect
per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest
ten yards." For example, one piece 60 yards
long would be allowed to have six defects
