DART MANIPULATION

2. DART MANIPULATION
Basic fitting darts can be moved from their original positions to other locations on the pattern
to create a new design. This can be achieved by either the pivot or the slash method. The
purpose of moving basic fitting darts to a different location is:
To create a new design effect with darts, or
To move the dart fitting to a new location as a starting point for other designs, such as the
conversion of darts to gathers, seam lines, tucks, or pleats.
2.1 BASIC SLASH METHOD
The slash method is a flat-pattern design procedure which involves cutting along and new dart
lines on a pattern to move darts to a new location.
Either method may be employed in many design creations; however, in some cases the slash
method must be used. For example:
When the new dart line(s) is curved or is an unusual shape, the slash method achieves the
desired effect accurately.
When a commercial pattern is used but variations in design are desired, the slash method
is employed.
The slash method is more time consuming and involves more steps than the pivot method.
2.2 BASIC PIVOT METHOD
The pivot method is one of two basic techniques used in flat-pattern design to move darts to a
new location. This procedure involves tracing the sloper and pivoting on a pivot point to
transfer dart fitting from one position to another.

SLASH AND SPREAD METHOD

MOVING DART
2.1.1. MOVING THE BODICE BACK SHOULDER DART TO
NECK SEAMLINE
The darts of the bodice back have limited use in pattern designing. The
bodice darts should not be combined. Each dart of the bodice back has its
own pivot point because there is no well-defined location for a common
pivot point. The pivot point is about 1 inches (3.8 cm) away from the
tip of the dart and is in line with the middle of the dart.
The shoulder dart should be kept in the upper part of the bodice back. In this area, it may be
moved or converted to seam lines such as the yoke line and the princess line. The shoulder
dart is about 3 to 3 inches
The back shoulder dart is moved to the neckline by the slash method as follows:
1. Use a paper pattern and locate the pivot point.
2. Draw a line indicating the entire length of the new dart. Pivot point as shown by the dotted
lines in the figure.
3. Slash along the shoulder dart to the pivot point and also along the new dart to the pivot
point and also along the new dart to the pivot point.
4. Close the shoulder dart, and pin the pattern to a piece of paper to fill in the new dart
opening.
5. Draw a dotted line to mark the middle of the new dart. Make the dotted line parallel to
center back or slant it away from center back for a pleasing effect.
6. Draw the lines for the new dart AEA, make the dart about the same length as the original
shoulder dart.
7. Fold the dart, perfect the neckline seam, cut off excess paper, and label the pattern.

MOVING DART
2.1.2. MOVING THE BUST FITTING DART TO NECK
SEAMLINE
1. Start with a basic bodice front pattern. Analyze the design to be
developed and determine where the dart crosses the neck
seamline in relation to centre front. Locate the new dart position
directly on the neck seamline of the bodice front pattern.
2. Draw a dotted line from the bust fitting dart tip (the dart to be moved) and a solid line
from the new dart position marked on the neck seamline to the bust point. These will serve
as cutting lines.
3. Cut along the fold line of the bust fitting dart and the dotted line drawn from the bust
fitting dart tip to, but not through, the bust point. Cut along the solid line of the new dart
to, but not through, the bust point. Arrows indicate where to slash. The bust point will
serve as a pivot point.
4. Pivot the pattern on the bust point to close the dart to be moved (the bust fitting dart) until
the cut edges meet at the side seam line and tape in place. Tape backing paper under the
new dart area, placing tape on the top side of the pattern only. Locate the center of the
open end of the new dart by measure.
5. Draw the center guideline of the new dart by connecting the dart mid point and the bust
point. Locate the new dart tip, which is a point on the center guideline slightly within the
bust circle.
6. Draw the new dart from the open end (the cut edges of the pattern at the neck seam line)
to the new tip. Check to see that the neckline remains a smooth curve over the folded dart;
perfect if necessary. Perfect the side seam by connecting upper and lower points with a
ruler straight line.
7. Cut out the pattern over the folded darts. Label.

COMBINED DART
2.1.3. MOVING AND COMBINING THE BUST FITTING AND
WAIST FITTING DARTS TO FRENCH DART
POSITION
1. Start with a basic bodice front pattern. Analyze the design to be
developed and notice that both fitting darts have been moved to a
lower than normal position on the bodice front side seam and that
the new dart angles to the bust point. Locate this position on the pattern by folding the
bust fitting dart and holding this dart closed while the space division on the side seam line
is analyzed and marked.
2. Draw dotted lines from the bust fitting dart tip and the waist fitting dart tip, and a solid
line from the new dart position marked on the side seam line, to the bust point. Cut along
the fold lines of the bust fitting and waist fitting darts and along both dotted lines to, but
now through, the bust point. Cut along the new dart line to, but and through, the bust
point.
3. Pivot the pattern on the bust point to close the darts to the moved (the bust fitting and the
waist fitting darts) and tape in place. Tape backing paper under the new dart area. Locate
the centre of the open and of the new dart by measure.
4. Draw a centre guideline for the new dart from the bust point to the midpoint of the open
end of the dart. Locate the tip of the new combined dart from the bust point.
5. Draw the new dart by connecting the open end of the dart with the new dart tip. Perfect
the side seam over the folded dart.
6. Cut on the pattern over the folded dart. Notice that a V-shaped wedge may be cut away
from the open end of the dart as a result of cutting across the waist seam while the dart is
folded. Label.

DIVIDED DART
2.1.4. MOVING THE BUST FITTING DART TO THE
ARMHOLE AND DIVIDING THE DART INTO TWO
PARALLEL DARTS
The bust fitting dart is moved to the armhole seam and divided into
two darts. Divided darts can be drawn as parallel dart or darts that fan
out.
1. Analyze a design to be developed and locate the two new dart positions on the armhole
seam of the sloper.
2. Draw a dotted centre guideline from a point halfway between the new dart locations on
the armhole seam to the bust point. This guideline will be used when drawing the two
parallel darts.
3. Draw new dart lines, starting at the pints marked on the armhole seam, parallel to and
equidistant from the centre guideline to slightly within the bust circle. Next draw dotted
lines from the tips of the bust fitting dart, and the new dart lines, to the bust point. Cut
along the foldline of the bust fitting dart and the dotted line to but not through, the bust
point. Cut on the new dart lines and dotted lines to, but not through, the bust point. Do not
cut on the dotted centre guideline.
4. Pivot the pattern on the bust point to close the bust fitting dart and tape in place. Place
backing paper under the new dart area and tape to the pattern along outer cut edges of the
new dart lines.
5. Adjust the centre section between the new darts so that open ends are equal by measure.
Secure section with a push pin and tape in place.
6. Locate new dart tips on inner cut edges of the new darts at the same points located in step
3. Each inner line remains part of each new dart because these lines are parallel to and
equidistant from the centre guideline.
7. Draw the outer lines of the two darts by connecting the remaining open ends and the dart
tips.
8. Cut out the pattern over the folded darts. Label.

PIVOT METHOD

MOVING DART
2.2.1. MOVING THE BUST FITTING DART TO SHOULDER
DART
1. Analyze a design to be developed and locate the new dart position on
the shoulder position on the front of the sloper. Insert a push pin
through the bust point. Trace around the sloper from the new dart
location.
2. Trace the sloper from the new dart position. Continue tracing the waist fitting dart till the
bust fitting dart position is reached.
3. Pivot the sloper to close the bust fitting dart. Continue tracing around the sloper until the
starting point of the new dart is reached.
4. Remove the sloper. The bust fitting dart now has been moved to the sloper shoulder
position. Draw the bust circle.
5. Draw a center guideline for the new dart from the bust point to the mid point of the open
end of the dart. Locate the tip of the new dart from the bust point.
6. Cut out the pattern over the folded darts label.

COMBINED DART
2.2.2. MOVING AND COMBINING THE BUST FITTING
AND WAIST FITTING DARTS AT THE CENTRE
FRONT
1. Analyze a design to be developed and locate the new dart
position on the sloper.
2. Pivot to close the waist fitting dart and continue tracing around the sloper until the top
edge of the bust fitting dart is reached.
3. Pivot to close the bust fitting dart continue to trace until the starting point is reached.
4. Remove the sloper both darts have been moved and combined at the centre front dart
position.
5. Draw the bust circle. Locate the centre of the open end of the new dart by measure.
6. Draw a center guideline from the midpoint marked of the open end of the dart.
7. Locate the tip of the new dart from the bust point.
8. Draw the outer lines of the dart by connecting the open end and the dart tip. Perfect the
centre front connecting upper and lower points over the folded dart.
9. Cut out the pattern over the folded dart. Label.

DIVIDED DART
2.2.3. MOVING THE BUST FITTING DART TO THE
SHOULDER SEAM AND DIVIDING THE DARTS
INTO TWO PARALLEL DARTS
The bust fitting dart is moved to the shoulder seam and divided into
two or more darts. Divided darts can be drawn as parallel dart or darts
that fan out.
1.

2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

8.

Analyze a design to be developed and locate the two new dart positions on the shoulder
seam of the sloper. Insert a push pin through the bust point. Trace around the sloper from
the new dart location (closest to center front) towards center front and around to the
lower edge of the bust fitting dart. Locate, by measure, the midpoint of the open end of
the bust fitting dart.
Pivot the sloper to close half the bust fitting dart, that is, pivot the sloper to the dart
midpoint. Trace the sloper between the two points marked on the shoulder seam.
Pivot the sloper to close the rest of the bust fitting dart. Trace around the sloper from the
top of the bust fitting dart to the second dart point marked on the sloper. Mark the
armscye notch as the sloper is traced.
Remove the sloper. The bust fitting dart now has been moved to the sloper seam and
divided into two equal amounts. Draw the bust circle. Locate, by measure, the midpoint
between the two dart openings on the shoulder seam.
Draw a center guideline from the midpoint marked on the shoulder seam to the bust
point. This guideline will be used when drawing the two parallel darts.
Draw the inner lines of each dart first. These lines are parallel to and equidistant from the
center guideline. The lines are drawn from the open ends of the darts to slightly within
the bust circle.
Draw the outer lines of the two darts by connecting the remaining open ends and the dart
tips. Perfect the shoulder seam by connecting upper and lower points over the folded
parallel darts. Extend the armscye notch into the pattern and perfect the side seam if
necessary.
Cut out the pattern over the folded darts label.

PRACTICE PROBLEMS