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Oceanography and Wave Dynamics

1. Significant wave is defined as the mean wave height of the highest third of waves. 2. Lunar tides are caused by the mutual attraction between the earth and moon, while neap tides occur seven days after spring tides when the sun and moon are at right angles. 3. Ebb tides are when sea level falls over hours, exposing intertidal zones.

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35 views2 pages

Oceanography and Wave Dynamics

1. Significant wave is defined as the mean wave height of the highest third of waves. 2. Lunar tides are caused by the mutual attraction between the earth and moon, while neap tides occur seven days after spring tides when the sun and moon are at right angles. 3. Ebb tides are when sea level falls over hours, exposing intertidal zones.

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1. WAVE DECAY 7.

SIGNIFICANT WAVE
- they decrease greatly in size the farther they travel - is defined traditionally as the mean wave height
- wave-decay process allows the underlying long- (trough to crest) of the highest third of the waves
period waves to move out from beneath the messy
short-period sea state in the middle of the storm. 8. LUNAR TIDE
Once these longer period waves break free from the - the part of a terrestrial tide due to the mutual
storm's confusion, they are easily identified as a attraction between earth and moon.
more organized wave train, which we call swell.
9.NEAP TIDE / NEAP WAVE
- seven days after a spring tiderefers to a period of
2. CLAPOTIS moderate tides
- is a non-breaking standing wave pattern, caused for - when the sun and moon are at right angles to each
example, by the reflection of a traveling surface other.
wave train from a near vertical shoreline like a
breakwater, seawall or steep cliff.
10. DIURNAL TIDE - have only one high and one
low tide each day.
3. DYNAMIC PRESSURE
- is the kinetic energy per unit volume of a fluid
particle. 11. EBB TIDE - sea level falls over several hours,
- is in fact one of the terms of Bernoulli's equation, revealing the intertidal zone
which can be derived from the conservation of
energy for a fluid in motion 12. SHOAL
- a large number of fish swimming together.
4. RANKINE ACTIVE PRESSURE - a sandbank or sand bar in the bed of a body of water,
- when a retaining wall moves away from the soil. especially one that is exposed above the surface ofth
- is the one that is exerted by the soil that tends to e water at low tide.
overturn or slide the retaining wall. It is unfavorable
to stability of the wall. 13. SWELL
- a slow, regular movement of the sea in rolling waves
5. EBB - the movement of the tide out to sea. that do not break.
- become larger or rounder in size, typically as a result
of an accumulation of fluid.
6. WAKE
- is the region of disturbed flow (often turbulent) 14. SKEWD
downstream of a solid body moving through a fluid, - suddenly change direction or position.
caused by the flow of the fluid around the body. - equal to the negative of its conjugate.
- to give an oblique direction to; shape, form, or cut - parallel to the sun and moon
obliquely
16. EQUINOX
15. DECLINATION - perpendicular to the sun and moon

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