7 5.7 Fancy Basket Weave To design the 2 1 fancy basket weave shown in Figure (5.1) B, line off the 1 2 design to correspond to the ends and picks which must interlace alike and then fill in the correct squares. In the design space is lined off into groups of 2-1-1-2 threads warp ways and filling ways and the squares are then filled or left vacant on the basis of a plain weave. In other words, alternate groups of raisers and sinkers are placed in the spaces formed by the intersecting lines Other fancy effects are obtained by combining in various combinations the warp and filling rib weaves. The usual method of designing these arrangements is to use each type of weave according to a motive. Figure 5.1 ~ F shows one repeat each way of a plain weave and it is used as a motive or base to obtain a new weave. By letting each block in this motive represent 4 ends and 4 picks, it will be possible to obtain Figure (5.1) ~ G by placing repeats of the 2/2 warp rib on the ends and picks in the new design represented by the raisers of the motive; the 2/2 filling rib is placed on the ends and picks in the now design represented by the sinkers of the motive. Each block in the motive used should represent a number of ends and picks which will allow one or more complete repeats of the weaves selected for the combination. 5.8 Fancy Basket Weave Designs Example (1) Design a (4-1-4) fancy basket weave. Draw (2 x 2) repeat.28 5.9 Some Rib and Basket Woven Fabrics The following are the names of some rib and basket woven fabrics used for upholstery, draperies, blouses, and shirts Dimity. - A corded fabric formed by weaving 2, 3 or more warp threads alike in plain weave order and spaced with single ends. Used for summer, curtains, aprons, and underwear. Pajama. - A corded fabric formed by weaving 3 ends and picks alike in plain weave order the spaced with single ends and picks forming a 3/1/1/1 basket weave. Used for underwear and pajamas. Oxford. -- A rib fabric woven with a fine warp and a heavy filling. The weave is usually 2/2 filling rib although this is sometimes varied by interlacing four ends with two picks to form a basket weave. Used for shirts and uniforms. Monk's Cloth. -- A heavy cloth made from heavy cotton yarns which sometimes include flax or jute. The 2/2 or 4/4 basket weaves are generally used. This fabric is used for draperies, bedspreads, and wall covering. Rep. -- A fabric in which the rib effect is obtained according to one of the following arrangements: (1) By using altemate slack and tight ends in either plain weave or with two ends weaving as one with one filling thread and the next end is woven with one pick. (2) By using two or more coarse filling threads woven as one. (3) By using a low number of coarse ply yam filling threads per inch.CHAPTER 6 DERIVATIVES FROM REGULAR TWILLS 6.1 Derivatives from Regular Twills Broken and crowfoot twills: step-reclining and curved twills; pointed, entwining and corkscrew twills are all derivatives from regular twills. Both regular and derivative twills are widely used for work clothing and cloth used in corsets because these twills form a strong, tightly woven fabric. The derivatives for a novelty decorative weaves in demand for suitings, stip covers and upholstery cloth. When the twill line has a sig-zag effect, the twill is often referred to as a herringbone twill. ‘The diagonal line characteristic of twill is formed by interlacing each successive end ‘one pick higher or lower than the producing end. If the successive ends are placed higher the line formed is called a right hand twill line. If the ends are placed successively lower, a left hand twill line is formed. Derivative twills use the same principle but vary the relationship For instance if each successive end is placed four picks higher than the preceding end, diagonal is formed as before but the angle of the twill line is about 75° from the horizontal than the 45° angle of a regular twill, 6.2 Broken Twills A broken twill is a variation from a regular twill which uses right and left hand twills in combination giving a series of twill lines alternating in direction. In combining, there must be a clear break between the two-twill lines and that break is provided by placing raisers against sinkers with no overlapping as shown in the break between the fifth and sixth ends in Figure (6.1) ~ B starts with a 2/2 twill, 5 ends right hand followed by e ends left hand for a repeat of 16 ends. Figure 6.2 uses the same basic twill and the same break into sections of 5 and 3, but the break is constructed fillingways. Figure 6.3 combines the two and breakers the twill in both directions. Notice that all three of these broken twills were derived from a 2/2 regular twill.Broken Twills Derived from 2/2 Twill. Divided in Section of $ and 3 Respectively. Figure 6.1 Twill broken across the warp Figure 6.2 Twill broken filling ways Figure 6.3 Twill broken both ways31 6.3 Directions for Designing Broken Twills Formed Warp Ways Directions for Designing Broken Twills formed Warp Ways. ~ ‘A. Mark off the picks to use. All broken twills formed across the warp repeat on the sum of the twill for the number of picks in one repeat. In Figure (6.1), a 2/2 regular twill is the base, so four picks are marked off. Fill in the right hand twill for any chosen number of ends, in this case, 5 ends are used, B. The next section is to be the left hand twill and a clear break is required, therefore place raisers on the next and against sinkers of the last end of the twill. There raisers are shown as cross marks. C. Using these across marks as a starting point, fill in a chosen number of ends of left twill, using the same regular twill as a base. There ends of left hand twill are used shown by cross marks. D. At this point there is one repeat of the filling, one repeat of the right and left hand twill combination but only a part of the repeat of the warp. Continue the weave across the warp until it starts over again in the same twill arrangement. This design repeats on 4 picks and 16 ends. As a precautionary measure to prevent errors in the number of ends of each twill, it is a good plan before filling in the weave, to block out or line off the limits of each section as shown. E. E shows one completed repeat each way of a broken twill derived from 2/2 right hand left hands twills, broken across the warp in section of 5 and 3 respectively. 6.4 Broken Twills Formed Fi For a broken twill formed filling ways, reverse the system of threads, that is, break the 2 Ways twill across the filling instead of across the warp. Figure (6.2) shows the step-by-step procedure completed at D, which is one repeat each way, 16 picks and 4 ends per repeat. 6.8 Designing a Broken Twill, Broken Both Ways Figure 6.3 illustrates the steps in designing a broken twill, broken warp ways and filling ways in sections of $ and 3 ends and 5 and 3 picks. This broken twill uses the same 2/2 regular twill that was used in Figures (6.1) and (6.2) above. A. Complete one repeat of the warp as in broken twills formed across the warp in (6.1) - E. Use 5 picks per section as indicated in statement of problem. This step is shown as solid marks.2 Complete one repeat of the right and left hand twill section across the filling as in (6.2) - D, using 5 ends as indicated in statement of problem. This step is shown in cross marks. It is a good plan to place arrows in the vacant sections as shown in (6.3) - A to show the directions of the twill lines. B. Fill in the other sections working from those which have been completed. Remember right hand twill alternates with left hand twill. When a twill is broken both ways, the design must be carried out in both directions until it repeats. C. and D, This weave is formed as if certain sections were cut from one repeat of tight hand twill (6.3) - C and one repeat of left hand twill will (6.3) - D and these were combined to form a pattern. 6.6 Fabrics of Broken Twill Weaves The greatest use for these weaves is in wool, worsted, and cotton suitings. They are also converted into double napped suede cloths used ini jackets, shirts and leggings. 6.7 Broken Twill Weaves Designs Example (1) Design a striped broken twill based on 2 twill, warp threads are arranged in the “2 order of eight right hand and eight left hand. Draw (1 x 2 ) repeat.33 Example (2) Design a striped broken twill based on 2 twill, warp threads are arranged in the — order of four right hand and three left hand. Draw (1 x 2 ) repeat.34 Example (3) Design a striped broken twill based on 5 __ twill, warp threads are arranged in the 5Example (4) checked broken twill, each painted square is six right hand twill and 3 Design a each unpainted square is six left hand twill. Given motive is (3-2) basket weaveExample (5) Drawa 3 I checked broken twill with the given plain weave motive. Each painted square in the motive is 14 left hand twill and each unpainted square is 14 right hand twill. Draw (1x 1 ) repeat37 6.8 Crowfoot Weaves The crowfoot weave (6.4) - C is really a broken twill although it is sometimes called a 4-thread irregular sateen. Crowfoot weaves are frequently used to produce raised stripes and checks in cotton fabrics. The crowfoot weave is used instead of a sateen stripe because it give much the same appearance in the cloth and the crowfoot weave can be woven on a smaller number of hamesses than would be required for the sateen. The raised surface is produced by increasing the threads per inch in the crowfoot weave. The four-hamess crowfoot weave may be derived from a 4-hamess twill; a 6-hamess crowfoot may be derived from a 1/5 regular twill, an 8- harness crowfoot may be derived from a 1/7 regular twill. 6.9 Directions for Designing 4-Harness Crowfoot A. Make one repeat each way of 1/3 regular right hand twill. B. Make me repeat each way of 1/3 regular left hand twill. C. Combine the first two ends of A with the first two ends of B to obtain C. D. To obtain the warp effect crowfoot weave, dot in the points of interlacing which became sinkers and fill around them for warp effect as shown at E. 6.10 Elongated and Curved Twills 6.10.1 Angle of Twill Line If a regular twill weave is used in a cloth woven with as many warp as filling threads per inch, the resulting twill line runs at an angle of 45°. If the cloth contains more warp threads than filling threads per inch, the twill line will run at an angle greater than 45°, depending on the ratio of warp ends per inch to filling threads per inch. Other twill line angles are obtained in fabrics containing approximately the same number of warp and filling threads per inch by a variation from the regular twill weave to the weaves known as elongated twills. Elongated twills are divided into steep twills forming angles such as 63°, 70°, 75°, etc., and reclining twills with angles less than 45°Figure 6.5 Single twill lines at various angles are shown in the top line and below is one repeat each way of each type of elongated twill derived from a regular 5/5 twill,39 6.10.2 Steep Twills Steep twills are derived from regular twills by stepping up not one pick each time but two or more picks. A regular right hand twill line is shown in the center of Figure 6.5. Steep twills forming lines at angles of 63°, 70°, and 75° are formed by stepping up 2, 3, and 4 picks respectively. In designing elongated twills it is important to understand the relation between the angle of the twill and the ends and hamesses required for one repeat in order that the designer may lay out an elongated twill on the minimum number of hamesses. All steep twills repeat on the sum of the weave for the number of picks per repeat. The ends per repeat, and consequently the hamesses required for one repeat of the warp, are determined by the following rules: 1. In 63° steep twills, if the sum of the twill is an even number then 14 the sum of the twill will be the number of ends in one repeat. If the sum of the twill is an odd number then this number will be the number of ends in one repeat. 2. In 70° steep twills, if the sum of the twill is divisible by three then 1/3 the sum of the twill will be the number of ends in one repeat. If it is not divisible by three then the sum of the twill will be the number of ends in one repeat. 3. In 75° steep twills, if the sum of the twill is divisible by four then / the sum of the twill will be the number of ends in one repeat. If the sum of the twill is not divisible by four but is divisible by two than “4 the sum of the twill will be the number of ends in one repeat. If the sum of the twill is not divisible by either four or two then the sum of the twill will be the number of ends in one repeat.6.10.3 Steep Twill Weave Designs Example (1) Designa 4 4 1 (63°)right hand twill. Draw ( 1 x 1 ) repeat.41 Example (2) Designa 2 4 4 4 4 2 (63°) right hand twill Draw ( 1 x 1 ) repeat.2 Example (3) (70°) right hand twill, Draw (1 x 1 ) repeat. 4.3 4 Design a Example (4) (70°) right hand twill. Draw (1 x 1 ) repeat. 5 1 3 Design a43 Example (5) Design a (75°) right hand twill. Draw (1 x 1 ) repeat.Example (6) (75°) right hand twill. Draw (1x 1) repeat, 3 5 Design a45 6.10.4 Reclining Twills Reclining twills are made by placing the raises of each pick two or more ends to the right. Placing the raisers two ends to the right forms an angle of 27°. Moving the raisers three ends of the right forms an angle of 20° For reclining twills the sum of the twill will always be the number of ends per repeat. The picks per repeat for the 27° twill are found by the same rule as the ends per repeat for the 63° twill. That is, the repeat filling ways is equal to the sum of the twill, unless the sum of the twill is divisible by 2. In that case the repeat is the sum of the twill divided by 2. In the same way, a 20° twill has a pick repeat equal to the sum of the twill but if the sum of the twill is divisible by 3, a repeat becomes the sum of the twill divided by 3. 6.10.$ Reclining Twill Weave Designs Example (1) Drawa 3 (a) 27°, (b) 20°, (c) 15° right hand twill designs. Draw (1x1) repeat for each. (a) 27° reclining twill(b) 20° reclining twill. (©) 15° reclining twillExample (2) Draw aweave 3 1 (a)27°,(b) 20°, (c) 15° right hand twill designs. Draw 2 4 (b) 20° reclining twill. ree ee (c) 15° reclining twill.6.10.6 Curved Twills Curved twills are constructed by combining 45°, twills with elongated twills to secure the desired curve. A simple method of construction is to draw the desired curve on design Paper and follow this lie with raisers of the base twill. Each end will repeat in the filling as in regular twills but the weave must be made to repeat across the warp. A regular twill with well-broken up effects should be used is the base weave to prevent the formation of long warp or filling floats, 6.10.7 Curved Twill Weave Designs Example (1) With 4 1 twill as.a base make a curved twill according to the following layout. “22 8 threads for 27° 3 threads for 45° 4 threads for 63° 3 threads for 45° Draw ( 2x2 ) repeat.Example (2) With 4 _ twill as a base, make a curved twill according to the following layout. 4 4 threads for 63° 3 threads for 45° 8 threads for 27° 3 threads for 45° 4 threads for 63° Draw ( 1 x 2) repeat.50 6.11 Skip Twills Skip twills are very similar to broken twills. A selected twill is broken into sections with a clear break between sections. The broken twills reverse directions from right to left and vice versa. The skip twills merely skip enough threads in the twill to form a clear break and then continue in the same direction. The effect is that of a zig-zag twill line 6.11.1 Directions for Skip Twill Formed Across the Warp A. As all skip twills formed across the warp repeat on the sum of the twill for the number of picks in one repeat, mark off the picks to use. In Figure 6.6 four picks have been marked off as the 2/2 regular twill is to be used as a base. Fill in the first section for the number of ends decided on. In design A, 5 ends have been used. B. Form a clear break, and mark in the ends of regular twill for the next section. In design B, 3 ends have been used for this section. C. Continue to fill in sections of twill with clear breaks between cach section until a repeat is formed. In design C, a repeat is obtained at the end of 16 ends. In design C, it will be noted that weave must continue in sections of 5 and 3 until a section of 5 ends starts exactly like the first section. 6.11.2 Skip Twills formed Across the Filling For skip twills formed across the filling use the directions given for forming skip twills across the warp but reverse the system of threads using ends for picks and picks for ends. D, E, and F illustrate the method of designing a skip twill form a regular 2/2 twill in sections of 5 and 3, across the filling. 6.11.3 Skip Twills formed Across both Warp and Filling To design skip twills of this description, use the procedure for designing broken twills broken both ways as shown in Figure 6.3. The only exception is that the twill lines in each section will run to the right, as shown by the arrow in Figure (6.6) ~ G. Figure 14H shows a skip twill of this type from the 2/2 regular twill6.11.4 Skip Twill Weave Designs Example (1) Design a 3 skip twill, 3 warp threads per arrangement. Draw (2 x 2) repeat. 3 Example (2) Design a 3 __ skip twill, 4-2 warp threads per arrangement. Draw (2 x 2 ) repeat. 352 Example (3) Designa 4 skip twill, 4 picks per arrangement. Draw (2 x 1 ) repeat.53 Example (4) checked skip twill, 4 ends per arrangement and 4 picks per 4 Design a 4 arrangement. Draw ( 1x 1 ) repeat. oa ex 3 xix xf, f| ex!Figure 6.6 Skip twills formed from a 2/2 twill divided into sections of § and 3, A, B and C are steps in constructing this twill across the warp D, E, and F are steps in constructing this skip across the filling. G and H show a skip twill formed across both warp and filling.55 6.12 Pointed Twills In pointed twills right and left twills are used in combination with a point formed where the two twill lines come together. A point is formed by interlacing the first end of each new twill line in the same manner as the next to the last end of the opposite twill line. Therefore the last end of each twill line forms the point. When twills are pointed filling ways this rule applies to the last pick of each twill line. 6.12.1 Pointed Twills formed Across the Warp A. Asalll pointed twills formed across the warp repeat on the sum of the base twill for the number of picks in one repeat, mark off the picks to use. In Figure 6.7, 4 picks have been marked off as the 2/2 regular twill is to be used as a base. Fill in the first section for the number of ends decided on. In design (6.7) — A, 6 ends have been used for the right twill. B, Start the first end of the section of left twill with the same arrangement of raisers and sinkers as the next to the last end of right twill. Continue this section with left twill for the number of ends decided on. In design B, 4 ends have been used. C. continue to fill in sections of 6 ends right and 4 ends left until a section of right twill interlaces in the same manner as the first section thus forming a repeat of the weave as shown in design C 16.12.2 Pointed Twills formed Across the Filling D, E, and F show the method of constructing a pointed twill formed filling ways using the same basic twill and the same sections. To design a pointed twill formed filling ways, use same steps as for pointed twill formed across the warp but substitute ends for picks and picks for ends. 6.12.3. Pointed Twill formed Warp and Filling Ways G. Follow the procedure for designing broken twills formed both ways except form a point in place of a clear break at the place where the two twills come together. To form the points use the method for pointed twills formed warp ways and pointed twills formed filling ways. G shows the method of construction. H. One repeat each way of the completed weave for a pointed twill formed both ways, derived from a 2/2 regular twill, divided into sections of 6 ends and picks of right twill, 4 ends and picks of left twill.Figure 6.7 56 Pointed twills derived from the regular 2/2 twill. A, B and C show steps in construction of a pointed twill formed across the warp in sections of 6 ends right, 4 ends left. D, E, and F show construction of a pointed twill formed across the filling in sections of 6 picks right, 4 picks left. G and H show construction of a pointed twill formed in both directions in a sections of 6 and 4.6.12.4 Pointed Twill Weave Designs Example (1) Designa 2 _ pointed twill using 5 ends right and 4 ends left to produce horizontal 2 wave line in the design. Draw (1 x 2 ) repeat.Example (2) Designa 3 1 pointed twill using 8 right hand, 3 left hand, 8 right hand, 8 left 1 3 hand, 3 right hand, 8 left hand to produce vertical wave line in the design. Draw (2 x 1) repeat. Pees CET59 Example (3) Designa 4 1 checked pointed twill, according to the plain weave motive. Each ee Painted block in the motive is 16 threads right hand twill, each unpainted block in the motive is 16 left hand twill, Draw (2 x 2) repeat.