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If you’ve ever dealt with greasy hair, you’ve probably asked yourself more than once, “Why is my hair so oily?” while shouting at your reflection in the mirror. (Okay, maybe that’s a little dramatic. But still, it’s frustrating!) Having oily hair can make you feel like you’re doing something wrong with your hair care routine, like your hair is dirty, or just make you feel generally embarrassed. It’s not fun. And what can be even more difficult is how unpredictable greasy hair can be—while some people have chronically oily hair, for others the oiliness seems to come on out of nowhere: One day your hair is normal, and the next you wake up with greasy strands. So why does this happen? Well, there are actually a lot of different reasons your hair may be getting greasy so fast. SELF spoke to hairstylists and a dermatologist to answer commonly asked questions about the causes of oily hair and to get their solutions for oily hair treatment.
What causes oily hair? | Why is my hair getting oily so fast? | Why is my hair so oily even after I wash it? | How often should I wash my hair if it is oily? | Can my period cause oily hair? | Do certain hairstyles make oily hair worse? | What is the best shampoo for oily hair? | Do styling products make hair more oily? | Does hair type influence how oily my hair will be? | Can dry scalps be oily?
What causes oily hair?
Before we dive into the variety of factors at play, it’s important to understand exactly what is at the root of oily hair. That answer, at least, is simple: our scalps. “Our scalps are loaded with oil glands, just as our faces are. Oil production is controlled by our genes, and that’s not something we can voluntarily control,” Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center, tells SELF. Thus that potentially unpredictable oily hair. Cue the aforementioned frustration!
Though we can’t control our genetics, which are also responsible for hormone production and hair type, there are ways to manage oily buildup on your hair’s ends and roots. For instance, you can change up how often you wash your hair, finding a good regimen that meets your needs. Or you can adjust the type of shampoo you’re using, depending on what your stylist or colorist recommends. (Or just based on some experimentation.)
Why is my hair getting oily so fast?
The most common (and maybe most obvious) answer to the question “why does my hair get greasy so fast” is because it’s not being washed frequently enough. Hairstylist at SCK Salon Devin Toth tells SELF this is the number-one cause for oily hair. “Especially if you tend to have an oily scalp, it is important to wash your hair more frequently than you would otherwise,” Dr. Zeichner adds. “The oil has only one place to go, and that is out. Washing your hair helps remove the built-up oil from your hair.”
How often you need to wash your hair is highly dependent on things like your hair type, how much you exercise, and more. For instance, if you have natural hair, a generally non-oily scalp, and tend to do low-impact activities like yoga, you won’t need to wash your hair as often for oil-prevention purposes as someone who has thin, fine hair, more natural oil production on their scalp, and who does intense boxing workouts multiple times per week.
Why is my hair so oily even after I wash it?
There are some obvious potential reasons behind this, like using shampoo that doesn’t clean thoroughly enough. But there’s also a more surprising potential reason. Although there’s not scientific research to back this up, a lot of people anecdotally experience greasy hair they chalk up to washing too much. So if you notice that your situation doesn’t improve with frequent washing, paradoxically, that might be the root of your problem. Here’s the theory of how this may happen, per Calvin Louis, hairstylist and founder of ManeFrame in Los Angeles: “Over-washing your hair strips your hair and scalp of natural oils. The body remedies this by producing even more oil to make up for lost oils, which then creates a buildup and makes your hair feel and look oily.”
How often should you wash your hair if it is oily?
It’s hard to create a rule that works for all hair types here, but there’s probably a maximum: every single day, for example, is most likely too much. Instead, you’ll want to find a careful balance to figure out what your best hair-washing schedule is based on hair type, routine, and lifestyle. “People with thin hair wash it more often, with a gentle shampoo,” Toth explains. “People with curly hair wash it less frequently.”
Not sure if your excess grease is the result of overwashing? Louis suggests going a day or two without washing and seeing what happens, or only washing your hair once or twice a week. If your oily scalp improves, you’ve got your answer. (You can also try experimenting with dry shampoo to stave off the oil without actually washing.) If you’re ever unsure, talk to your hairstylist next time you’re at the salon! They’re the only person that may know your hair better than you.
Can my period cause oily hair?
If you have to ask, you probably already know: yup. File this under “yet another way your period can affect your entire body.” A spike in hormonal levels that happens around the beginning of your flow can cause your oil glands to go into overdrive. (Fun fact: This is also the same reason that you may develop acne breakouts around this time.) As a result, your scalp may feel greasier than at other times during the month, Dr. Zeichner explains. (If you’re on birth control that suppresses these hormonal shifts, though, like combination birth control pills, you might be able to rule this out as the behind your greasy hair.)
It’s worth switching up your shampoo during your period if this happens to you. Try Neutrogena T/Sal Therapeutic Shampoo ($7, Neutrogena) or LivSo Moisturizing Shampoo ($19, Amazon).
Do certain hairstyles make oily hair worse?
The big factor here is how tight the hairstyle is. For example, throwing your hair back in a ponytail might be a quick way to cool off and get your hair off your neck, but experts warn that this low-maintenance style can actually make hair greasier at the roots. “Pulling the hair together in a ponytail may lead to the accumulation of oil and dirt on the scalp underneath the ponytail holder,” Dr. Zeichner says. “Essentially, this oil, dirt, and grease get trapped in the tiny crevices between your strands because the rubber band serves as a roadblock.”
“If your hair is matted down, your scalp may not be ‘breathing,’ and oil may not spread through the hair shaft,” master hairstylist and co-founder of Spoke & Weal in New York City, Jon Reyman, tells SELF.
If you need to pull your hair back to cool down or keep it out of your face, try using a claw clip like the chic eco-friendly one from Kitsch ($10). Because there is no rubber band causing a roadblock—the tongs of the clip are looser and scattered—this hairstyle leaves plenty of that “breathing” room that you want to have.
What is the best shampoo for oily hair?
While there’s no single shampoo that will work for everyone with oily hair, there is a reason more and more hair-care brands are marketing products to specific hair types: Everyone’s hair is different and requires a different balance of ingredients. “Using the wrong products for your hair type or overusing those products can cause a buildup of product that ends up irritating the scalp,” Louis says. Dr. Zeichner agrees that this buildup of product at your roots can trap oil there and make your hair feel greasy.
Toth says that gentle daily shampoos are key to dealing with greasy hair, especially those that are formulated with natural ingredients like plant extracts and oils. He recommends Gentle Oil Radiance Shampoo by Shu Uemura ($59, Shu Uemura) if this describes your hair type.
And if you’re out shopping, look for shampoos labeled “clarifying”— those are generally good universal shampoos for oily hair. “A clarifying shampoo gently cleanses away any product buildup or outside-pollution buildup in your hair,” Louis says. The R+Co Oblivion Clarifying Shampoo is a cult classic and another great choice for many with oily strands.
Do styling products make hair more oily?
They definitely can, especially if you have thinner strands—fine hair is notorious for getting greasy fast. A common cause of this is using hair-care products that are too heavy for the thin strands to handle, weighing them down. “People with thin hair should steer clear from masks, overly moisturizing shampoos, and heavy oils,” Toth says. “These products can make thin hair look flat, greasy, and dirty.”
For people with thin hair, Toth recommends serums, lightweight oils, and styling products that are applied to hair in mist form. “A spray applicator is ideal because it distributes a light amount of product more evenly and over a larger area. Ideally, the applicator creates a mist and doesn’t just spray put the product in a dense liquid form,” which can still be too heavy.
Does hair type influence how oily my hair will be?
Again, there are no guaranteed hair types for oily hair, but curly-haired folks should pay special attention to the way they take care of their scalps. Reyman points out that oil from the scalp slowly moves down the hair between washes, conditioning the hair shaft from roots to ends. Brushing helps this happen more thoroughly by spreading oil along the length of the hair with each stroke. But many people with curly hair are advised not to brush their hair (or they do it infrequently). That can allow oil to start accumulating around the scalp. “In some cases this means an oily scalp and dry ends,” says Reyman.
Dr. Zeichner also points out that another reason for more grease when your strands are curly is that you might be tempted to wash it less, since it likely holds volume and texture for many days after a shampoo. But this can give the oil more of a chance to accumulate on the scalp and the hair itself, he says. This doesn’t necessarily mean you need to wash much more often, as this can dry out your curls, which may already be prone to dehydration. But it does mean you should make sure to choose shampoos and conditioners that can provide the right balance of clarifying action and moisture.
Can dry scalps be oily?
Indeed they can. You might think that if you have dandruff, the dry itchy skin on your scalp means your hair will be dry too. But Dr. Zeichner warns that dandruff actually might seriously contribute to greasy hair, and it’s a bit of a vicious cycle. “Scalp oil promotes an overgrowth of yeast on scalp skin, which in turn promotes inflammation and flaking,” he says. “This may further trap oil and make the hair look greasy.” Your best bet is to look for ingredients meant to decrease yeast overgrowth such as zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, and ketoconazole.
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