At Alegría, you'd better book ahead, since it’s always packed. This picantería, in a traditional old house in Miraflores, draws in diners thanks to their intense Piura flavors, reimagined: lighter, more contemporary, yet rooted in soulful, slow-cooked tradition. There’s chicha served in a northern Peruvian vase called a poto, green tamal, and mashed yuca. Never pass on the creamy green pepián with homestyle rice and duck. There’s also a clean, precise ceviche with zarandaja beans, and a seco de chavelo that you’ll remember long after a meal. Alegría feels sprawling thanks to its wide terrace. Sometimes, music with the cajón drums kicks in, and an impromptu party just happens.