A first trip to Lima will always be disconcerting. There’s movement and chaos—it’s a vast city full of contrasts and microclimates that shift from one neighborhood to the next. Food is the common thread, the bridge that unites local flavors with those that arrived from Spain, Africa, China, Japan, Italy, among others, and gave birth to new cuisines. All Peruvian. But migration was also internal, and the table was further enriched by produce and culture brought from the north to the south from the Andes and the Amazon.
Today, you’ll find not just seafood and cocina criolla, but also chifa (Peruvian-Chinese), Nikkei (Japanese-Peruvian), italoperuana or bachiche, Andean, and Amazonian cuisine. And new trends are joining in—think specialty coffee in many restaurants and bakeries specializing in sourdough bread. If you’re in Lima for the first time, start with basics: seafood and criolla cuisine; then explore the daily options, like pollo a la brasa or chifa. One afternoon, even if the sky looks grey, watch the sunset over the Pacific with a Capitán (pisco cocktail) in hand.