Annie Replogle
Contributor
Annie works in the luxury travel, food, and wine sector in Rome. She has her dreams set on a Puglian masseria or Sicilian villa someday.
RMEGuide
photo credit: Saghar Setareh
If Rome runs on espresso, then it luxuriously strolls with gelato. According to some legends, Italian gelato is as old as Ancient Rome—Emperor Nero loved his little frozen treats, and would send his minions to the mountains to collect snow, which was later flavored with honey, wine, and various fruits.
Today, the number of gelato shops rivals that of churches, but it’s important to choose wisely. The best gelato is served at a slightly higher temperature than typical ice cream, leading to a faster melt, so steer clear of places flaunting towering displays—it’s a sign that what they're selling may be whipped with air or packed with stabilizers. Our last rule: avoid bright colors. Gelato should mirror the hue of its ingredients, so if the pistachio glows brighter than the Pantheon at midnight, beware.
Giolitti is a classic gelateria near the Pantheon that’s been around since 1900. It’s impossible to miss—the shop’s bright green signage practically takes over the block—and their variety of flavors nearly match the number of years they’ve been in business. If picking between tiramisu and Indian fig feels like an impossible task, follow our lead and go with the creamy pistachio paired with the boozy zabaione. And if it’s a two-treat kind of day, snag one of their cookies or pastries on the way out.
Saghar Setareh
Trastevere is home to some of the best bars and restaurants in Rome. After a few drinks at Bar San Calisto, wander over to Fiordiluna for a scoop or two. The creamy mascarpone might surprise you with bits of chocolate and biscuit, and the pistachio packs a wonderfully nutty crunch. The classic yogurt flavor, meanwhile, could easily put your hometown froyo spot out of business. And if you still need to buy a souvenir for the person watching your dog at home, their homemade jams are easy to slip into your checked bag.
Saghar Setareh
If Piazza Navona is on your list of things to see in Rome, and it should be, plan to come to Gelateria del Teatro after. It’s just a four-minute walk away, and serves many unique flavors you won’t find elsewhere, like pineapple and mint, or ricotta, fig, and almond. Fill a cup with the creamy white chocolate and basil, followed by the rich, dark chocolate that’s spiked with fruity Nero d'Avola wine. Granita is also an option if you’re craving Italy’s version of a snow cone, and it’s especially refreshing during the summer months.
You'll appreciate the effort Neve di Latte takes to source their ingredients—like their milk for example, which comes from Upper Bavaria, a German region that's known for its dairy. Go to town on the Sicilian ricotta that’s lightly layered with hints of candied orange and chocolate, and don’t miss the chestnut cream when it’s in season. Other memorable flavors include a chocolate-and-nut-spiked sour cherry, plus tangy fruit sorbets.
Saghar Setareh
Gelateria Fassi—also known as the Palazzo del Freddo, or Frozen Palace—is Rome’s oldest gelato establishment. It’s been open since 1880, and has survived wars, pandemics, and Italian bureaucracy. The shop practically doubles as a Fassi family museum, with portraits and newspaper clippings covering the walls. Get a scoop of the zabaione gelato (which is kind of like a frozen eggnog) and the vanilla bourbon topped with teeny-tiny bits of toasted peanuts and cocoa nibs. Their famous persimmon flavor is only available in the fall, so keep a lookout.
Saghar Setareh
La Gourmandise is a shop in Monteverde that has dairy-free gelato options, along with some flavors made from goat milk sourced straight from Malta. Try the raw, texturally-rich pistachio mixed with the salty almond, or the fragrant honeyed lavender flavor dotted with bits of bitter chocolate. After, take a walk through the neighborhood with your cup or cone while house hunting on the picturesque street.
If you somehow didn’t eat dessert at Roscioli, make your way around the corner to Fatamorgana. In addition to the classics, their rotating menu is full of flavors like peaches and wine, and banana cream with crunchy sesame. And while you really can’t go wrong with anything here, you should dive straight into the bronte pistachio or the pitch-perfect milk, mint, and chocolate flavor—the freshness of the mint is more powerful than a Listerine strip.
Saghar Setareh
Otaleg (which, yes, is gelato spelled backwards) was founded by an employee of one of Rome’s first gourmet gelato-makers. It’s located in between two of Trastevere’s main piazzas, which we recommend hitting once you have your cup or cone in hand. Try the pistachio paired with a scoop of rich dark chocolate, or their silky stracciatella. Also good to know: the fruit flavors change with the season, and are dairy-free.
Mary Stuart
The flavors at this small gelato shop are creative and refreshing, like ginger and apple, mixed citrus and fresh chili pepper, and one option that’s even made with beer. There are also refrigerator cases for individual portions of desserts like tiramisu and zabaione. Take your cone across the street and peer over the railing to see the spot where Julius Caesar was assassinated—today, it’s filled with lots of lazy, well-cared-for kittens.
Saghar Setareh
Torcè, one of Rome's pioneering gourmet gelato makers, operates four shops across the city. Their location on Viale Aventino is our personal favorite because you can take a post-gelato stroll through the nearby Giardino degli Aranci. There's no shortage of creativity when it comes to the flavors here. We're talking black sesame with salted caramel, ricotta with saffron, and their sweet and salty halva gelato that’s chalky in a good way. The salted chocolate is a favorite, with pink Himalayan salt amping up the rich cocoa flavor.
Everything this shop in Monti makes is made from entirely raw ingredients, from the cakes to the chocolates to their gelato. (It’s also all gluten- and lactose-free, plus vegan.) Their menu is small, with only 11 different types—but the distilled flavors of nuts like almond and hazelnut with chocolate really shine. If you miss it in Monti, there’s also a second, smaller location next to the Fontana delle Tartarughe.
Saghar Setareh
Sure, Prati is just a 20-minute walk from the Vatican, but the main neighborhood attraction is Gelateria dei Gracchi. The best option here is the ricotta and pear or toasted almond with candied orange—it’s the ultimate blend of subtle sweetness and zesty crunch. And if you need a break from all the milk, go with the vegan pistachio. It’s ultra-creamy, and you won’t even miss the dairy.
We know about Gelateria Tony because our Roman cab driver wouldn't stop raving about it during our commute from the airport. Since opening in the '60s, locals from the Monteverde neighborhood have been flocking here. Tony sticks to the classics while adding some surprises, like babà al rum and apricot crostata. Their Nutella with fior di latte is sweet and sticky in the best way, and their silky, smooth zabaione tastes like liqueur-soaked golden raisins.
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