Orma is a fine dining sanctuary where sleek Scandi decor, frosted windows, and soft acoustics make you forget you’re in a city where even the fountains have traffic jams. The food pays homage to Italian recipes from across the country, like candele alla genovese: hearty, al dente tubes of pasta smothered in a slow-cooked, barbecued beef and onion sauce. Local vegetables shine with fresh cheese and herbs, and desserts highlight seasonal fruits paired with more cheese, like persimmon granita with stracchino. We’ve had an incredible a la carte lunch here, and can’t wait to come back for the set menu dinner. On your way to the bathroom, don’t miss the impressive subterranean wine cellar.