Showing posts with label War In Space. Show all posts
Showing posts with label War In Space. Show all posts

30 November 2012

Solitaire Space Battle Homebrew in the Works

Lots of props make for a smoother/faster game

I can't stop making up rules.  It's a sickness.  But I think this time I have it figured out...

Last year I put a ton of effort into a game called War In Space and posted it here on the Downloads page of this blog.  The problem with that set of rules was that I didn't really playtest it thoroughly enough, and it turned out to be too clunky and not very fun.

Soon afterward I made a new set of rules, Greater Space Battles, which has given me a lot of fun games.  I stayed up until 2 or 3AM  a few nights finishing a game and I haven't done that since high school.  Greater Space Battles finally let me recapture some of that magic of my gaming youth when I had a good group of gaming buddies and everything was fresh.  As great a time as I've had with the second rule-set, something has always been nagging at me to revisit War In Space.

War In Space suffered from a lot of problems, but I've always been happy with the core energy allocation rule mechanic of throwing three dice, with the type dependent on the ship size.  Looking closer at my first set of rules, I realized that the biggest problem was the screwed up turn sequence.  So I ditched that and made a new little game, combining aspects from my first and second rule-sets.  I playtested a few turns today and it worked great.

The key to a non-clunky and fun play experience was a lot of pre-production work.  Each ship has a detailed base with information on it, as well as a separate washer that has more ship information mounted on both sides.  This eliminates the need for any paper, and these washer-tokens can be drawn randomly from a dish to determine initiative, essential for a solitaire game.  They're also plastic coated so that changes during the game can be marked in permanent marker (won't rub off with hand-moisture), and cleaned after the game with isopropyl alcohol.

The big improvement over my other systems is how I track energy points.  Now, instead of pennies or tokens, I use little cubes which prove a lot faster as I generally just need to flip one side instead of go grab more tokens off the stack.  As the picture above shows, these are really little cubes, only 3/16" per side.  Actually, that was a good lesson-learned from the playtest: the tiny cubes proved unobtrusive but fiddly; it took a little bit of time manipulating them because they were so hard to grab.  I made new ones tonight that are bigger but still tiny compared to normal d6s, which overwhelm and crowd out the ship miniatures.

So the key is props.  The little cubes for energy tracking, the Box O' Death dice rolling tool, the information tokens in their initiative dish, and an alcohol pen all make for a smooth game.  Today I finished two turns of a 2 v 2 ship battle in under 20 minutes: in my experience pretty fast for a solitaire game where I have to continually move around the table.

Unlike last time, I'm going to playtest at least two or three games before I write up and post the rules.  This blog goes into a year-long deep hyperspace sleep in December, so I hope I have it done by then.  

18 October 2011

Homebrew Spaceship Game Rules Finally Finished

I stayed up waaaayyy too late last night, finishing my homebrew spaceship miniatures game, War In Space.  I've been excited to do an updated version ever since I purchased the rights to some cool artwork for the cover.  The cover (which is a separate file on my downloads page) features an illustration by artist Colin Hay, who painted many science fiction book covers in the 1970s, even having some of his works featured in the fabled Terran Trade Authority Handbooks!

I recently bought myself some Bristol board, nibbed pens, and a sable brush and tried my hand at inking a drawing; the final result is on page 1.  Wow, that's hard!  Just like they say in Chasing Amy, inking is far more than just tracingOnce the inked drawing was done, I scanned it into my computer and created the starfield background using Microsoft Powerpoint.  That's right, Powerpoint.  I spent heaps of money buying my girlfriend Adobe Illustrator as a gift earlier this year, but as I don't have a Mac and she does... time to improvise.  Well anyways, it was my very first inking attempt so be gentle.

This version of the game features a reworked version of my multi-player campaign rules, which now feature a 3D campaign map.  The gazetteer of interstellar distances (or more correctly flight time in game turns) was created using a spreadsheet to do all the simple but tedious math.  If anyone is interested I'll post the file to my downloads section.  Just roll three percentile dice for a star system's X, Y, and Z axes and input it into the spreadsheet and the flight times to the other 14 systems appears in the colored table.

Honestly my push to get this done was to just get it out of my mind.  My gaming consciousness has been taken over by 10mm mass combat recently, and I've been focusing on playtesting a new set of rules called Count the Dead.  I've enjoyed the few playtest sessions I've had with this spaceship game, but really the rules were a vehicle to get some of my scratchbuild starship miniatures on the board.  With 10mm gaming I've been using commercial figures and brother, what fun!  I hope I can share my free rules for this genre as well. 

17 September 2011

Homemade (Hex) Space Mat

...Alternate title: "My Aching Back"

A year ago I went to the local fabric store and made a great find.  The clearance bin held all sorts of upholstery vinyl for cheap.  I got 5 yards of black vinyl for $3.00/yard (US).  The surface takes acrylic paint wonderfully, yet dirt wipes clean off it.  It also has a sort of rubberized backing that makes it nice and heavy, very durable.

  I loaded some cheap Walmart white acrylic paint on an old toothbrush and pulled the bristles back, flicking paint all over the mat and creating a convincing star field.  I hand painted planets and stars with the results shown below, and for $7.50 I had an awesome space mat.

Space Mat
My homebrew War In Space rules uses rulers, but I want to try hex-based rules.  So even though I'm proud of my space mat and loathe to ruin it, I decided to paint some hexes on it.  First I needed some guides.

I noticed the bottoms of Dixie cups are 49mm across, and since I designed my game for 5cm increments this is near-perfect.  So I grabbed a bunch of cups and filled the little recess in the bottom with water-putty.

My poor girlfriend puts up with this weirdness

 After 20 or so hours of setting, I squeezed the cups gently and pulled out 19 discs with perfectly smooth bottoms and identical diameters: essential if I wanted to use circle packing to generate a hex pattern.

Use this technique for round bases of any type
 I packed the discs together flush against one edge of the space mat and then mixed up some true navy blue, crimson and white acrylic paint.  I took a sharpened chopstick and dabbed the tip into my paint well, then made all sorts of tiny dots in the spaces between the circles.  The pictures below make the hex pattern seem very bright.  The brightness is an artifact of the camera flash; actually the hex pattern is fairly subdued.  The hexes can be counted from a meter or so away, but do not cover up the star field too much.

Cheap but tedious
 The problem with this method is that I'm still not finished.  I'm probably less than a quarter of the way done and I've been at it for hours.  The inaugural battle of my solo space campaign, which playtests my hex variant rules, will have to wait.  There's a great post on SGN that shows a cost comparison for commercial space mats.  The cheapest runs about $0.0125 per square inch and the average price about double that at $0.025.  At 54 by 90 inches with a total cost of less than $12.00, my mat is incredibly cheap compared to the commercial versions.  Of course, I'll need the money I save for medical care; my poor back aches from bending over the table while I paint dots and move discs.

And for no reason other than I love this design, here's an old unpainted ship I built back in May.  My first set of pictures sucked.  Today however, I had some good sunlight for photos and wanted to show what this baby truly looks like in some natural light.  I think I'll experiment with using this gray primer as the "base" coat and just paint little highlights like insignia and portholes on the ship.




15 September 2011

Scratchbuilding, War In Space and the Terran Trade Authority

Many folks my age grew up with the Star Wars trilogy hitting the theaters while we were toddlers or just starting school.  So of course we were all fascinated by Lucas' fictional universe.  I was the kid who brought all the SW toys to show-and-tell.  Fast forward three decades and I've graduated with an undergraduate degree in Astronautics; my childhood passion for space never died.  My love for Star Wars did die however; it was just a passing fad for me.  My true childhood space inspiration was Stewart Cowley's Terran Trade Authority (TTA) books.

Mr. Cowley created a very loose narrative to provide context for and link a number of unrelated science-fiction illustrations.  The illustrations (the proper term since many were airbrush ink works) mostly followed the Chris Foss style and were originally commissioned as book covers for sci-fi novels.  Cowley built up a fictitious (and sometimes contradictory) universe over the four books.

I used to check those books out routinely from the library, until some jerk stole them (I will find you).  I would just sit and stare at those wonderful pictures of spaceships.  I knew from that point I wanted to build machines like that.

I don't blueprint my little scratchbuild gaming spaceships; I just mash things into Sculpey and use the resulting impression as a mold.  Several people have remarked that the casts that emerge from those molds look a lot like "1970s science fiction book cover art".  I don't ape the art from the TTA books, but I know it's a huge subconscious influence and I'm glad it shows.

As an aside it turns out the TTA books inspired a lot of followers, so much so that in 2005 the books were re-released and used as a RPG setting (I just found this out an hour ago; thanks Wikipedia).  Apparently the new books had a lot of 3D computer renderings.  Lame.  That's just wrong... glad I have the original books.  Am I the only person on the face of the earth who despises computer art?  Am I the only one who thinks the shadows are all wrong and it looks fake, even today?  OK, this post is long enough, on with the point... 

So I was prowling the internet and ended up finding the portfolio of one of the artists featured in the TTA books.  Since the TTA books used recycled art, I guess it's more appropriate to say I found the portfolio of an artist who painted a lot of 1970's science fiction book covers.  Even better it's the artist who did most of my favorite pieces!  On a whim I wrote him an email and asked if I could commission a piece of art for my War In Space game (which is generic and not set in the TTA universe).  He explained in a friendly email that he doesn't do sci-fi art anymore, but when I suggested licensing he sent me some legal paperwork.  I need to figure this all out and read the document, but I can't believe there may be a (slim) chance my stupid little game may have a cover from my favorite artist!  Wow!  I really want to keep my game a free download, so I may end up funding this with no hope of recovering the cost.  Oh well.... it would be worth it, for the aesthetics sake.

Has anyone else paid for art for one of their homebrew projects, knowing they'd never sell it?

14 September 2011

Solo Space Campaign Set-up 1

OK, I'm two days from getting back to my table and scratchbuilding stuff, so I'll kick this campaign off and document it to illustrate my method.

I just shuffled two decks very thoroughly and drew a Queen of Diamonds and 6 of Clubs from the red deck (I'll call them Side A for now until I flesh this setting out).  A crappy low draw.  I could take a Size Class 2 ship due to the two suits, but at the Obsolete technology level only ship designs with 4 Systems boxes are available.  I could do that but it would waste two boxes, so I decide Side A gets two Size Class 1 ships (3 Systems boxes each).  Side B (blue deck) draws a King of Diamonds and 8 of Clubs.  Weird!  Almost identical draw.  So I assign two frigates to Side B (4 Systems boxes each).

I thought this would be a quick redraw but since these forces are so closely matched (difference of only 2 Systems boxes), the odds on my Mythic Fate Chart don't change at all.  So I ask "will this encounter have an impact on the war?" with the odds of a "Yes" at "Has to be".  Chaos Rank of 5 means a 95 for a "Yes"... I roll a 94.  Holy crap these are some weird draws and dice rolls!  So this tiny little skirmish actually has an impact on the war.  Perhaps this is some diplomatic incident that touches off the war?  When I get back I'll grab some miniatures and fight it out.

The smaller ships aren't as fun to sculpt, but this actually works out perfect.  I hope to have my space mat modified with hexes before the weekend is out and this little four ship fight will be a quick test of the hex-based variant of my rules.  Stay tuned for the battle report.

Solo Space Campaign with Mythic GME

I imagine the solo wargame crowd being pretty small, and the subset using the Mythic GME even smaller.  And those who've actually read my game War In Space... well that's a miniscule number.  So to all but a select few (probably just me), this post will read pretty esoteric.  Like a non-gamer wandering into a D&D conversation and trying to decipher THAC0, hit dice, and save vs. rods.

Anyway, I plan on combining my solo campaign rules with the Mythic GME to run a space war.  I'll flip playing cards as my rules describe, generating two opposing space forces.  Then I'll ask the question: "will this encounter have a significant impact on the war?" and roll on the Mythic Fate Chart.

As per Mythic rules, four results exist: "Exceptional No", "No", "Yes", and "Exceptional Yes".  "Exceptional No" means the encounter has absolutely no impact on the war; I won't bother fighting it out.  Instead, I'll flip more cards and generate another two forces, repeating the process.

If the Mythic result is "No" the battle has a negligible impact on the war, but if the cards reveal an interesting mix of ships I may just fight it out.  Regardless of which side wins, neither card deck will change as a result of the battle. More likely if I get a "No" result I won't fight the battle but I'll randomly generate a few dictionary words and come up with the seeds to a role-playing adventure involving the space battle (even if only peripherally).  That's what a "No" on the Mythic Fate Chart will indicate for me: idea seeds that either serve as an "anthology" type RPG, or as set-ups to later wargame scenarios.  For example, I roll up a "No" result but then roll "teetotaler" and "question-mark" from the dictionary.  I wrack my brain and decide maybe a certain taskforce commander prohibits the junior officers in his formation from drinking booze, but perhaps one of his patrol boat captains, a lieutenant, is running a lucrative alcohol smuggling operation.  The lieutenant's operation brings his little ship in contact with a supposed "enemy" ship on a regular basis; liquor pays much better than fighting.  There's a lot of ideas to springboard off of there; the wayward Lt. is a secret intelligence agent (straight RPG adventure), or the smugglers get caught during a shore leave, causing a shoot-out with authorities (set-up for next scenario). 

A "Yes" to the question posed above means I'll fight the battle normally, and the winning force gets to lose a face card from their deck, as detailed in my campaign rules.  Lose a card?  What the hell am I talking about?  Download and read it!  I'll usually use the dictionary method above not for an RPG adventure, but to set up a scenario for the actual battle.

An "Exceptional Yes" indicates a potential turning point in the war: a sinking of the Bismark, a Coral Sea, a Midway, etc.  I'll fight the battle but in this case the winner will get to discard two face cards: a decided advantage in the overall campaign.  Maybe I'll integrate it into a ground miniature game, like a space D-Day.

OK, so how will I decide the odds for the Mythic Fate Chart?  I'll assume the odds of a "Yes" answer to the question "will this encounter have a significant impact on the war?" are "Has to be" if the forces are equal.  My logic is that for the big, pivotal events of a war, the opposing sides will try to bring all their resources to bear and generally will field similar forces.  So I'll take the difference in the sizes of forces (in terms of Systems boxes) and use this to reduce the odds of a "Yes".  For a difference of every 4 Systems boxes, I will drop the odds of a "Yes" one level.  Example: I draw a small force for Side A which totals 14 Systems boxes, and a larger one for Side B with 47 boxes.  The difference of 33 boxes drops the odds eight levels, all the way down to "Very Unlikely" that the encounter matters to the war.  If I still roll a "Yes" in this case, well I'll just have to come up with a solid scenario to make the battle worth playing despite the disparity.

The final element of the Mythic Fate Chart, the Chaos Rank, starts at 5 for the first card draw of the campaign.  When a numerically inferior force wins an engagement, the Chaos Rank increases 1.  When a numerically superior force wins, the Chaos Rank drops 1.  Otherwise, the Chaos Rank will remain where it is. 

I'll track certain ships' crews, build a star map and slowly build a little RPG universe set during a space war while getting in some good miniatures battles in the meantime.  Hurray for Mythic!  Despite my initial trepidation I'm falling in love with this system.
           

10 September 2011

War In Space Hex-based Combat

Following up from the previous post, I'm exploring a hex-based version of my free spaceship miniatures rules.  The alternate rules dispense with the measuring stick required in the no-hex version.  Simply count hexes from shooter to target and cross reference the table below to determine the range effect.  Use the range effect to resolve weapons fire per the combat rules in the ruleset.

Note, ships can fire at targets farther than 19 hexes away, I just thought the chances of such engagements were too remote to bother with making a row for each range.  The null set symbol on the chart below indicates an impossible shot; I've included all the ranges where shooting at a certain size becomes an impossibility.  The pattern for intermediate ranges not depicted should be easy to spot.  For Signature 1 targets (the big boys), simply add 1 to the Range Effect for each hex past the last interval depicted; for example shooting at a Signature 1 ship at 22 hexes is Range Effect 8 (three more than that at 19).  The other Range Effects are simple multiples, depending on the target Signature.

That's it.  No real changes.  I do hate having to constantly reference charts however.  So I'm planning to make a huge version of this table spread out across four pages of 11"x17" paper, which I will paste together and mount on the wall as a 22"x34" reference chart.  Then I'll just have to look across my small hobby-room to resolve fires.  I'll drop a copy on my downloads page when I make it.

Happy spaceship gaming!

War In Space Hex-based Movement

I dropped the War In Space ruleset on my downloads page the other day, but without some "alternate" rules kicking around in my head.  Adapting the game to a hex-grid system is the biggest and most obvious optional rule.  I love my vinyl mat with no hexes on it.  It looks so good, and hey, isn't aesthetics one of the joys of miniature gaming?  Also, I designed my game for no-hex play because I hate referencing charts; by using measuring sticks and eschewing hexes I eliminate cross-referencing charts.  The problem with hex-less playing however is slower play, as opponents have to constantly reach and measure.  In the interest of speedy play, I'm therefore very interested in hex-based War In Space.  It also affords the opportunity to use a 2D vector system where vessels move like the spaceships in the Atari Asteroids game, with velocity vector and ship heading independent.  A note of warning: while more "realistic" than the airplane-like movement rules in the download, this hex-based system is not playtested.  I think it will work fine, but I can't guarantee it (yet).

Movement Phase:  A ship begins the game with a speed counter placed in any adjacent hex (regardless of ship facing).  The counter displays the ship's current speed, as well as indicating the next hex the ship will occupy.  Thus, the speed counter is actually a (two-dimensional) velocity vector indicator.  Ships move a number of hexes equal to their current speed (I plan on using 5cm hexes, measured from face-to-face).  Ships may also attempt to change their velocity vectors and facing during this movement.  Energy may be spent to accelerate or decelerate, and to increase the chance of a successful maneuver.   
 
Changing the magnitude of the ship's velocity vector happens first during the movement phase.  A ship may increase or decrease its current speed by 1 by spending energy points equal to the ship’s Size Class.  For example a massive Size Class 5 dreadnought may increase its speed from 1 to 5, but would have to allocate 20 energy.  In addition to available energy limitations, ships face further speed change restrictions based on the orientation of the velocity vector.  The following figure and associated table indicate the speed change limitation based on where a ship's speed counter lies, with respect to the ship's facing.  The limitations reflect the massive thrust component from a spaceship's main drive.



It is easier to keep track of speed changes by simply announcing them during the energy allocation phase versus the movement phase.  As soon as the dice are rolled and energy is allocated to movement, spend the appropriate amount and announce the speed change.  Then simply replace the ship’s speed counter with a new one reflecting the updated value.  At the beginning of the movement phase the ship’s speed will be correct.

A ship may attempt to change the direction of its velocity vector after changing the vector's magnitude.  A player rolls three dice when attempting a velocity vector change.  If the player also wants to change the ship's facing, the player simply sacrifices one die roll for each 60° facing change desired.  Thus speed limits vector changes but not facing changes.  Size Class determines the die type as indicated on Table 1.  For each die score rolled which exceeds the ship’s speed, the player may move the speed counter one adjacent hex clockwise or counter-clockwise around the ship.  The player repositions the speed counter as appropriate, executes any change to the ship's facing, and then finally moves the ship one hex in the direction of the speed counter.  The speed counter gets displaced, "pushed" ahead of the ship.  The entire process gets repeated until the ship moves a total number of hexes equal to its speed.

Changes to vector direction and facing require no energy, but energy may be spent to increase the chance of success.  Ships receive a bonus of 1 to their turn die score by spending energy points equal to the ship’s Size Class.  Bonuses are cumulative and as with acceleration and deceleration, there is no limit to a ship’s turn bonuses except energy available.  As with speed changes, it is easier to keep track of turn bonuses by simply announcing them the during energy allocation phase versus the movement phase.  As soon as the dice are rolled and energy is allocated to movement, spend the appropriate amount and announce the turn bonus.  Then simply place the appropriate turn bonus marker on the table and wait until after the weapons fire phase to resolve the movement.

The following example and associated figure illustrate this process.  A pursuit cruiser (Size Class 4), allocates 9 energy to movement.  The ship ended the previous turn with a speed of 4.  The controlling player plans to maneuver and during energy allocation decides to increase his chances by decelerating.  Consulting the figure above he determines he can decelerate a maximum of 2, based on the ship's thrust vector pointing starboard-fore (is that a word?).  The player spends four points of energy to decelerate from 4 to 3, and then spends four points to give a +1 turn bonus; the final energy point is wasted.  The player then replaces his ship's speed counter with a new one labeled "3" and also places a +1 turn bonus marker next to the miniature.  The player starts the movement phase rolling dice for a maneuver attempt.  Acceleration and deceleration precedes any maneuvers and the player satisfied this requirement and sped up game-play by adjusted his ship's speed during energy allocation.  The player declares a 60° facing change and therefore rolls two maneuver dice versus three.  He rolls a 2 and 4 on his d6's, adding the turn bonus to get a 3 and 5.  Only one die score exceeds the speed, so the player can only move the speed counter one hex.  The player moves the speed counter from the starboard-fore adjacent hex to the starboard-aft hex.  He changes the ship's facing one hex-side to the right and then moves the ship one hex towards the speed counter (and moves the counter).  Since he has two more hexes to move, the player has two more chances to maneuver.     

Hexes and spaceship gaming... like peanut butter & jelly



Order of ship movement depends on experience level, just like in the download version of the War In Space rules.

A hex-based system requires (minimal) changes to the combat system as well; the following post details that.



      

08 September 2011

War In Space Free Ruleset

Insomnia sucks.  I have to be up in three hours and I'm wide awake.  Tomorrow is going to be a bad day, but you can benefit from my misery... go to my downloads page and get my spaceship miniatures game War In Space for free.

It's got no cover, no table of contents, no index and no art.  It's free however, and I have a good time with it; maybe you will too.

Enjoy!

War In Space (Pt 8): Ship Design

I wrote War In Space as a scatchbuilder, for other scratchbuilders.  The ruleset therefore includes a simple ship construction system, allowing players to fly any ship they find or make a miniature for.

Use the blank Ship Design Sheet (SDS) for custom vessels.  After naming the new ship type, decide on its Size Class (1-5).  Table 1 indicates the Signature of the new ship type, as well as its Turn Die; both of these characteristics depend on Size Class.  Next decide the technology level of the ship: Obsolete, Current or Advanced.  The campaign rules included in the final downloadable rulebook include a method for progressing through the technology levels as the space war escalates.  Table 5 below indicates the number of Systems boxes that defines a ship type, based on Size Class and Technology Level.  Assign boxes among the three Systems on the SDS.  The total number of boxes equals the number indicated on Table 5.  Allocate a minimum of one System box to each system; limit the maximum number of boxes assigned to any individual system to five.  Mark out the boxes not assigned to the ship's Systems, starting at the top of the SDS.  Example: A player decides to make an Intercept Destroyer ship type (SDS below; another post describes how to sculpt it).  The player's custom Size Class 3 ship type uses Current technology; thus, according to Table 5, the Intercept Destroyer has eight total Systems boxes.  The player envisions the Intercept Destroyer as vessel built around a colossal laser and therefore assigns four boxes to Sub-Systems while giving Engines and Crew only two boxes each.  The player marks out the appropriate unusable boxes for each System, beginning on the d12 row and moving down.  As the SDS shows, an undamaged Intercept Destroyer rolls two six-sided dice and one ten-sided die for Energy Allocation.  The player also records the new ship's Size Class and corresponding Signature at the appropriate spot on the SDS.   
Example SDS

Next, define the Ship Design Parameters for the new class of vessel.  The blank SDS has a "(P)" and "(S)" placed over each card rank symbol.  Write one of the three basic action types: "Attack", "Defend", or "Move" next to the "(P)" on the Diamond symbol; this is the ship's primary action type when a Diamond card is played.  Write one of the other two basic action types next to the "(S)" on the Diamond symbol; this is the ship's secondary action type when a Diamond card is played.  Repeat the process for the other three suits.  Example: The player designed the Intercept Destroyer above as essentially a flying laser cannon.  As such, the player decides to make "Attack" the primary action type on three of four card ranks!  An Intercept Destroyer has a very good chance of allocating its best die to Attack actions, even if commanded by a very inexperienced captain.  Of course, this makes the ship a kind of one-trick-pony.  Ships featuring more varied design parameters prove more useful, but only in the hands of seasoned commanders.   

Give the ship a heavy weapon or two featuring some evocative name.  As of now, War In Space does not feature faction-specific weapons with special rules that might unbalance the game.  Heavy weapons listed on the SDS therefore only provide "flavor".  Feel free to make up your own special weapons however.

Finally, determine the firing arc modifiers of the new ship class.  Write a bonus or penalty on each of the six sides of the hexagon on the SDS (omitting modifiers of 0 obviously).  Neither the total of all six modifiers nor any individual firing arc bonus may exceed the ship's Size Class.  Example: Since the Intercept Destroyer above carries the fearsome Ultra-Laser, the creating player assigns a +3 bonus to the forward firing arc, the maximum allowed for a Size Class 3 ship.  The player also assigns a +1 attack bonus to the forward starboard and forward port arcs.  The player finally assigns a -2 penalty to the aft arc ensuring the total of all modifiers equals 3, the maximum value.  


27 July 2011

Missile Counters

My homebrew game War In Space features missiles, as do many other table-top space games.  I created some quick and easy missile counters that look pretty decent and cost fractions of a penny.  I pressed the top of a glue stick container into a block of Sculpey polymer clay in order to make the disc shape.  I then used my various shaping tools to press the missile shape into the bottom of the resulting depression.  I filled this depression with water-putty.  That's it.  After 100 minutes of curing you have yourself a missile counter.  I primed these three black which was a mistake; the paint job turned out poor.  Instead I will prime future counters gray, paint the missile some simple colors, then paint the remainder of the counter black.

Missile counters next to a rough scratchbuild for scale

Close-up



Drybrush only


15 July 2011

Back to Scratchbuilding

At the beginning of June some of the fellas over on the TMP boards suggested a scratchbuild/kitbash build off.  I plan on being done with the kitbash entry by 1 August, but have yet to get the key ingredients (a ping-pong ball, disposable lighter and 9 volt battery).  I plan on using all three as press-shapes to make a space station/alien derelict.  Until I go pick these items up I'll be scratchbuilding another ship, with the intent to cast in metal.  I used my standard press-mold method yesterday to make the upper hull master.  I poured the top half of the silicone mold around this master tonight.  I'm experimenting with using slivers of old molds to bulk out the mold, allowing me to save expensive rubber for more molds.  We'll see if it works.

Press mold of top hull
Master "sculpt" of top hull
Top half of two-part mold for metal drop-cast



 

01 June 2011

War In Space (Pt 7): Damage Control

In addition to the three basic action types: attack, defense and movement, spaceship captains in War In Space may elect to perform Damage Control.  Players announce their intent to use Damage Control during Energy Allocation, so the bulk of the procedure actually occurs during that phase, with the repairs finally taking affect in the Damage Control phase.  

A player using Damage Control for a ship announces it during Energy Allocation while playing a card of any suit.  If the Energy Allocation Card is an Ace through 10, then the highest die score is allocated to the Damage Control Action, the next highest score to the Primary Action Type, and the last die score to the Secondary action type; the remaining basic action type receives no energy.  The SDS lists which Action types are Primary and Secondary, based on the suit of the Energy Allocation Card played.  For example, if the ship in Figure 1 played a 4 of diamonds during Energy Allocation, the highest die rolled would be dedicated to Damage Control, the next highest die would be used for Attack actions, and the remaining die would be spent on Defense, leaving 0 energy for movement actions.

If a face card is played, the sum of the highest two dice scores is used for Damage Control and the remaining die score is used for the Primary Action Type.  The two remaining basic action types receive no energy.   Players may announce "Damage Control" when a Joker is revealed as the Energy Allocation Card.  The sum of all three dice is then allocated to Damage Control; all three basic actions receive 0 Energy Points.

Repairs do not take place until the Damage Control phase after movement.  By spending 4 energy points a ship may repair one system box, erasing the mark through the box.  The system will again produce more energy, allowing the ship's player to roll one die type higher on the respective system die during Energy Allocation.  By spending 8 energy points a ship may repair one critical hit, allowing it to once again play cards from a particular suit, having lost the ability to do so after taking damage.  There is no limit to the amount of systems boxes and critical hits a ship may repair, other than energy available.  Ships may not "repair" themselves to perform at higher than their original, undamaged capabilities!

More Spaceship Drop-casts

Tonight I cast another spaceship; my original sculpt shown below.  Although I don't like this ship design as well as the first one I cast, the final product turned out better.  I learned a lot from that first casting experience, particularly in mold design, and by applying those lessons I got a much better miniature this second time around.  The only defects I can find in the metal copies are from errors in the water-putty master itself; no deformation or air bubbles on the metal miniatures, even on the first cast in a cold mold!  Pictured below is one of my metal casts next to a commercially available spaceship miniature.  I won't name the game company that produces this miniature, but it may be in my opinion the lamest miniature in the history of wargaming.  The commercial mini came as one of 24 ships in a set that cost me about US$80.00, or about US$3.33 a figure.  That's a reasonable price for well-sculpted, exciting miniatures with lots of detail (which there were in the aforementioned set), but for a simple cylinder with two tiny featureless engine pods?  No, I feel cheated.  So I decided to get my money's worth and threw the commercial miniature into my ladle.  It melted just fine but the liquid metal turned a funny purple color... I don't know if it reacted with the remnants of the metal I normally use (Dunken Company's Model Metal) or if I simply overheated it.  Either way I poured the melted commercial figure into my mold and got an extra copy of my scratchbuild, so it all worked out.  In all I cast three copies.  Now I'm off to trim flash and base, prime and paint.

Water-putty prototype sculpt


Top: cast of my scratchbuild; bottom: oooo, a cylinder, whoopee


SDS for my game War In Space

26 May 2011

War In Space (Pt 6): Movement

This one's not so long... how to move in War In Space.

Movement Phase:  Ships move forward a number of 5cm increments equal to their current speed.  Ships may also attempt to turn during this movement.  Energy may be spent to accelerate or decelerate, and to increase the chance of a successful turn.
 
A ship may increase or decrease its current speed by 1 by spending energy points equal to the ship’s Size Class.  There is no limit to a ship’s acceleration or deceleration except energy available.  It is easier to keep track of speed changes by simply announcing them during the energy allocation phase versus the movement phase.  As soon as the dice are rolled and energy is allocated to movement, spend the appropriate amount and announce the speed change.  Then simply replace the ship’s speed counter with a new one reflecting the updated value.  At the beginning of the movement phase the ship’s speed will be correct.

A ship may attempt a normal 60° turn right or left by making a die roll.  Size Class determines the die type as indicated on Table 1.  If the die score rolled exceeds the ship’s speed, the turn is successful.  If the die score is equal to or less than the ship’s speed, the turn fails.  Regardless, after any turn attempt a ship must immediately move forward one 5cm increment.  Thus a ship not able to move any farther forward due to its current speed is ineligible to turn.  Also it should be obvious a ship can make a number of turn attempts equal to its speed.  Turns require no energy, but energy may be spent to increase the chance of executing one.  Ships receive a bonus of 1 to their turn die score by spending energy points equal to the ship’s Size Class.  Bonuses are cumulative and as with acceleration and deceleration, there is no limit to a ship’s turn bonuses except energy available.  As with speed changes, it is easier to keep track of turn bonuses by simply announcing them the during energy allocation phase versus the movement phase.  As soon as the dice are rolled and energy is allocated to movement, spend the appropriate amount and announce the turn bonus.  Then simply place the appropriate turn bonus marker on the table and wait until after the weapons fire phase to resolve the movement.

Ships may attempt hard turns of 120° or 180° at the risk of engine damage.  Simply roll two or three turn dice, for 120° and 180° turns respectively, of the appropriate type.  Turn bonuses apply to all dice rolled, but the scores on all turn dice must indicate a successful turn.  If any  die score (plus applicable bonus) does not exceed the ship’s speed, the hard turn fails.  A failed hard turn results in 1 Engine System box marked out.

Order of ship movement depends on experience level.  The player with the most ships moves his least experienced ship first.  If both sides have equal ships, the ship with the lowest experience level moves first.  Players then alternate moving one ship, the order being lowest experience to highest.  In the event that two or more ships are eligible to move next due to a tie in experience levels, the order is determined by speed; slowest to fastest (among those ships only).  If two or more ships have both the same experience level and same speed, movement order among these ships is determined by size: largest to smallest.  If two or more ships share experience level, speed and size determine order randomly.  Continue until all ships have moved.

Next post: Damage Control!

War In Space (Pt 5): Weapons Fire

I apologize for the length of this one, but I didn't want to split up the weapons fire rules.  Without further ado:

Weapons Fire Phase: Weapons fire is simultaneous, but in order for the game to flow smoother, certain situations should be resolved first.  All ships have 360° firing arcs.


Seeking weapons move like starships, but because they do damage their movement must be resolved during the weapons fire phase.  Seeking weapons can themselves be targeted however, further influencing the weapons fire resolution order.  Table 3 lists the order weapons fire should be resolved each turn.  Note that all effects of weapons fire are simultaneous, regardless of the order of resolution.  Therefore a ship that is totally destroyed may still resolve its attacks and potentially damage its targets.  Seeking weapons destroyed prior to reaching their targets are considered shot down prior to detonation.  In this special case, damage is not simultaneous.



Energy allocated for Attacks can be used for any of three different types of Attack actions: firing beam weapons, charging heavy beam weapons, and firing seeking weapons.


Beam weapons are the most common ship-to-ship weapons.  Determine a firing ship’s Attack score by adding the amount of energy dedicated to the direct fire Attack action and the Attack bonus (or penalty) for the hex-side being fired through, as indicated on the SDS.  The Attack score is then reduced, first by range effect, then by the target’s Defense score.  To determine the range effect, place the meter-long measuring stick over the firing model and extend it to the target.  The end with the largest band should be lined up over the center of the firing model.  Determine which range band the target is in.  The largest band (the one touching the shooter) is Range Band 1, the next one Range Band 2, etc.  Targets which lie farther than the range stick reaches are considered in Range Band 7.  Multiply the target’s range band by its Signature.  The result is the target’s range effect, which is subtracted from the Attack score.  Example: shooting at a Size Class 2 ship (Signature 4) at range band 4 would reduce the Attack score by 16, before subtracting any Defense actions!  If, after subtracting range effects, the Attack score is still greater than 0, subtract the energy the defender allocated to Defense actions.  If the Attack score still exceeds 0, the target is damaged.  For each point of Attack score remaining, the defending player marks off one box on his SDS.  The defender must mark off the system with the most unmarked boxes; if multiple systems have equal amounts of boxes, the defender chooses.

 
Attackers may fire at multiple targets by playing face cards of the appropriate suit during Energy Allocation.  Instead of combining the two highest dice scores, the attacker can dedicate each die to a separate target.  During the targeting phase, the attacker declares his two targets and also indicates which of the two shots will receive the higher die score.  I use a longer beam weapon marker to designate this.  If an attacker plays a joker he may fire at up to three separate targets.  Again, the attacker must designate these targets as well as the priority of energy dice during the targeting phase.


A single ship may be targeted by multiple attackers, including seeking weapons.  Reduce the Attack score of each attacker firing beam weapons by the appropriate range effect.  These individually adjusted Attack scores are then totaled.  This sum plus any damage from detonating seeking weapons is the damage inflicted on the defender.  The defending ship may still reduce this total by expending energy.  For example, a destroyer and frigate, ranges 2 and 3 respectively, fire on the same heavy cruiser (signature 2).  Additionally a nuclear missile guiding toward the heavy cruiser detonates (see seeking weapon rules below).  After modifiers, the destroyer and frigate have attack scores of 8 and 5 respectively.  Range effects reduce the destroyer’s attack to 4 and the frigate’s to -1.  The damage from the destroyer is added to the missile’s damage of 5, for a total of 9 (the frigate’s damage is ignored as it is less than 0).  The heavy cruiser allocates 7 energy for Defense, reducing the total damage to 2.

In addition to firing beam weapons, ships may spend energy to charge heavy beam weapons, giving a more powerful attack on the subsequent turn.  For every 2 point of energy spent charging, a 1 point Attack score bonus is granted to one firing arc.  Place a counter indicating the amount of bonus next to the appropriate firing arc (I place the counter directly on the ship’s base on the arc).  A number of restrictions limit heavy weapons use.  Not only must be the charging energy be dedicated to only one firing arc, but that arc must normally have a bonus, as depicted on the SDS.  For example, the ship in Figure 1 can only charge heavy weapons in one of the front three arcs.  Second, the heavy weapons must be fired on the next turn and cannot be held.  If the weapons are not fired, the counter is removed at the end of the next turn and lost.  Finally, no ship may have a damage bonus greater than its Size Class.  Firing heavy beam weapons on the next turn follows the exact same procedure as firing beam weapons above, with the addition of the Attack score bonus.
  
Firing seeking weapons requires energy expenditure, just like beam weapons, however this energy is used to acquire a lock on the target ship.  Determine the Attack score as before, adding the energy dedicated to the attack with the firing arc bonus or penalty (do not add any heavy weapon fire bonus).  Reduce the Attack score by the range effect as before, but do not ignore negative numbers.  Most importantly, do not apply any Defense actions from the target.  The resulting reduced Attack score is considered the lock-on quality and is used as a direct modifier on the seeking weapon’s turn die roll.  For example: a cruiser fires a missile and rolls dice, allocating a 4 to Attack.  A +3 firing arc bonus raises the Attack score to 7 but the target, a destroyer (signature 3), is at range band 3.  The modified Attack score is therefore a -2.  If this were a beam weapon the attack would be ignored, but since this is a missile, the cruiser’s player continues the attack.  When resolving a seeking weapon attack on a spaceship, move the weapon using standard movement rules.  Seeking weapons start touching the base of the launching vessel, facing out from the center of the ship’s base on the appropriate firing arc.  Seeking weapons accelerate 3 every turn.  Seeking weapons use a d12 as a turn die, adding their lock-on quality modifier to the roll.  If the weapon gets within 25mm of the target vessel, the weapons explodes doing 5 points of damage.  If other ships are within the 25mm range of the weapon, these ships are not damaged.  Seeking weapon damage is added to any other damage the target vessel receives in that turn and therefore is reduced by the target’s Defense action.  After 5 turns a seeking weapon runs out of fuel and must be removed from the game.  Seeking weapons may be targeted by other weapons (beam or seeking) but because of their tiny size have a signature of 10.  Seeking weapons cannot perform any Defense actions and are destroyed if they take 1 point of damage or more.  A seeking weapon that is destroyed cannot detonate and cause damage.
Players whse ships are damaged not only mark off Systems boxes, but must determine if the attack caused a critical hit.  Roll a single die, the type determined by the damaged ship’s Size Class as depicted on Table 4.  If the die score exceeds the number of damage suffered during the turn, the ship avoids any critical hits.  If the die roll fails to exceed the damage, then the ship suffers a critical hit.  The player controlling the target ship must then choose one playing card rank symbol on the Ship’s Design Parameters area of the SDS and mark it out.  The ship may no longer play energy allocation cards of that suit. 




A ship receiving enough damage to mark off all its Systems boxes is removed from play (after resolving its own weapons fire of course).  If the removed ship received more damage than remaining unmarked boxes, roll the target ship’s size die.  The difference between the damage inflicted in the final attack and the remaining boxes is called Excess Damage.  If the die score exceeds the excess damage, the ship and its crew survives.  Otherwise the ship explodes, killing everyone on board.  Example: A frigate with only 1 remaining System box can only mount a pathetic 2 point Defense and is hit by a cruiser’s macro-beam for 4 damage.  Crossing off the final box and noting an excess damage of 3, the frigate’s player rolls a 2 on a d6 and sulks as the vessel erupts in a glorious fireball.

War In Space (Pt 4): Energy Allocation

This post deals with the most important part of the War In Space system: energy allocation!

Energy Allocation Phase: Each player looks through the cards drawn for each ship and chooses one to represent how each starship captain intends to allocate his vessel’s energy.  Place the selected card on top of the other drawn cards and then place the entire stack face down on the SDS, moving on to the next ship.  When all players have selected a single Energy Allocation Card for each ship, they simultaneously reveal all selected cards.  If any player reveals a Joker, he must declare how it will be used (see below).

After all cards are revealed, players then roll dice and allocate energy according to the rules below.  Place energy counters of the appropriate color and amount for weapons fire, defense, and tight turn bonuses around each ship.  Since Energy Allocation is done via orders, players may roll dice and assign markers in any order and simultaneously.  Players roll three dice per ship to determine the actual energy generated and allocate the Energy Points, according to their cards, to perform the three basic ship action types: Movement, Attack, and Defense.  Additionally, ships may also allocate energy to a special Damage Control action.  Each die rolled corresponds to one of the ship systems listed on the SDS.  The number of currently unmarked boxes in a system’s column determines the die type, as shown in Table 2 below.  Battle damage reduces a ship’s energy output and utilization.  The player controlling the undamaged starship whose SDS is shown in Figure 1 would roll a d10, another d10 and a d8 when generating energy for actions.  The dice are allocated according to the card just revealed.  Energy Points are always allocated in whole die increments, i.e. although different dice may be allocated to different actions, Energy Points indicated on a single die may not be spilt. 

Ship design plays an important factor in how the energy dice are allocated.  If the Energy Allocation Card is an Ace through 10, then the highest die score is allocated to the Primary Action Type, the next highest score to the Secondary Action Type, and the last die score to the remaining action type.  The SDS lists which Action types are Primary and Secondary, based on the suit of the Energy Allocation Card played.  For example, if the ship in Figure 1 played a 9 of diamonds during Energy Allocation, the highest die rolled would be dedicated to Attack actions, the next highest die would be used for Defense actions, and the remaining die would be spent on movement. 

If a face card is played, then the captain decides to sacrifice an action in order to divert energy to another area (“Divert engine power to the forward shields, NOW!”).  In this case, the sum of the highest two dice scores is used for the Primary Action Type and the remaining die score is used for the Secondary Action Type.  The remaining Action Type receives no energy.   Jokers can be used one of two ways, announced when revealed.  First, a Joker may be used to allow a ship to seize initiative when revealing Energy Allocation cards.  If a Joker is revealed and the card’s player declares “initiative”, that player may analyze all the other cards revealed and then choose another from that ship’s drawn cards in response.  The second way to utilize a Joker is to announce Movement, Attack or Defense when the Joker is revealed.  The sum of all three dice is allocated to the declared action; the other two actions receive 0 Energy Points.





War In Space (Pt 3): Set Up and Turns

SET-UP: Set up forces/terrain and assign starting speed markers per scenario, GM (if any) guidance, or player agreement.  I usually just have all ships start at speed 3.  Alternatively, starting speed can be determined by rolling one Turn Die (Table 1) per ship.  Each player should have their own deck of standard playing cards with the two Jokers included.  Shuffle the decks thoroughly and have the player to the right cut.
   
THE TURN SEQUENCE: Each turn starts with the Draw Phase, followed by the Targeting phase, the Energy Allocation Phase, the Weapons Fire Phase, the Movement Phase, the Damage Control Phase and concludes with the Clean-Up Phase.
Draw Phase: Although players have an omniscient view of the battlefield, starship captains do not.  The commander of each vessel must issue his orders based on the limited tactical picture painted by sensors scanning vast sectors of interstellar space.  This fog and friction of space war is simulated by limiting the number of cards each player can use to issue orders.  Each player has a standard deck of cards (with Jokers) from which they draw a number of cards per ship based on each ship’s respective experience.  Cards are drawn for each ship individually: ships may not share cards.  Each ship gets two cards for each experience level.  Thus an Untested crew would get two cards and a Legendary ship gets 10.  Players look through the drawn cards to see what options each ship has this turn, but do not have to decide what card to use yet.  Place drawn cards face down on their respective SDS.
Targeting Phase: The player controlling the ship with the least experienced crew must declare that ship’s target(s), if any, first.  If all opponents each have ships with equally low experience levels, the player with the most ships goes first.  If all players are tied in both experience levels and numbers of craft, simply roll dice to determine who goes first.  Players then alternate declaring targets.  A player’s lower experience ships must declare targets before his higher experience ships.  When a ship declares a target, place a beam weapon or seeking weapon marker, as appropriate, on the ship’s hex-side facing the target.  I use thick spaghetti painted with bright red, blue, and green acrylic paint and broken into various lengths for my beam weapon markers.  Each side gets different colored spaghetti making it easy to discriminate who is shooting at whom.  If a player decides to forgo shooting (in order for example to charge a heavy weapon), he does not have to declare why; he simply declares “pass” for that ship.

Next: Energy Allocation!

War In Space (Pt 2): The Ship Design Sheet

SDS: The Ship Design Sheet summarizes all the aspects that define a ship type.  (See Figure 1)

Figure 1 Sample Ship Design Sheet (SDS)

  1. Name: Blank so the player can write the individual ship name.  Published ship designs will have the ship type already filled out.
  2. XP: Experience Points.  The top of the SDS features a scale indicating number of XP earned by the ship’s crew.  Above the scale are letters corresponding to four of the five experience levels: Green, Regular, Veteran, Legendary.  Ship’s crews with 0 XP are the lowest experience level: Untested.
  3. Size Class and Signature: A ship’s Size Class determines many factors in the game and is valued from 1 to 5.  Signature, used in targeting, is also 1 to 5, but inversely proportional to Size Class.  Table 1 below depicts how to determine Size Class and Signature.                                            
  4. Systems: Three columns of five boxes each represent the three essential elements of every ship design: Engines, Crew, and Sub-Systems.  The left side of the System boxes features pictures of each polyhedral die type, each die corresponding to a row of boxes.  A ship’s design determines how many boxes the vessel has in each of the three elements.  If a ship has less than the maximum five boxes in any design element, the boxes toward the top of the SDS will be marked out first.  The total number of unmarked Systems boxes (from all three elements) determines a ship’s Size Class, Signature and Turn Die (Table 1).  All ships will have at least one box in each element.  A simple outline of the ship lies to the right of the ship Systems boxes.
  5. Heavy Weapons: Lists any heavy weapons or special systems carried by the ship.
  6. Ship Design Parameters: Each SDS features all four playing card rank symbols, with the Energy Allocation priorities listed over the appropriate suit.  The symbols are also used to record ship limitations following a critical hit.
  7. Firing Arcs: A hexagon represents the ship’s six facing sides, with any applicable attack modifiers listed on each side.

War In Space (Pt 1)


I've been developing a set of homebrew space combat miniatures rules for a year now.  Playtesting began in earnest six months ago and I am now comfortable enough with the game to transfer it from my notebook to this blog.  I designed this game for myself.  Therefore it has things I've always enjoyed or wanted to see in other space games (fog and friction, cinematic play, energy allocation) and avoids things I didn't ("real" vector movement, overly-complex ship design, aliens with cosmetic blemishes on their foreheads).  The game also features compromises, but compromises I was comfortable with.  In short it may not be the perfect space game out there, but it's the perfect game for me.  I'm posting because maybe someone out there shares my tastes in spaceship gaming and will appreciate another free game system.   


War In Space uses written orders in the form of standard playing cards.  The cards represent how a starship captain intends to allocate his vessel’s energy.  A dice roll determines whether sufficient energy gets produced and correctly distributed to meet the commander’s intent.  Damage from enemy attacks changes the type of dice rolled, reducing the average amount of energy produced, and may even prohibit certain cards from being played.
 
Scale: Fairly abstract.  In addition to scratchbuilt ships, I occasionally use ADB SFB miniatures, but any starship scale works.  The game is designed for models to represent individual capital ships.  Planets, stars, asteroids and such can be represented on the table, but obviously are not to scale.  I use a 1.5m by 2.25m piece of black vinyl (with appropriate painted star background) as my playing surface.

Scope: War in Space is a game of interstellar ship-to-ship combat, inspired by the “World War I U-boat” style featured in shows like Star Trek.  The game supports small engagements, roughly 2-10 vessels per side, depending on ship crew experience.  Rules for space fighters attacking larger vessels don’t exist, but you can play fighter v. fighter battles using the basic rules.  

Materials Needed:
•    Miniatures
•    Terrain (playing mat/surface)
•    Scenics (if desired)
•    Polyhedral dice
•    Standard playing card decks for each player
•    Ship Design Sheets (SDS)
•    48” wooden dowel
•    Numbered markers
•    Small cylindrical markers

The following polyhedral dice are the minimum required: three 4-sided, three 6-sided, three 8-sided, three 10-sided, and three 12-sided.  I recommend five of each type.
Cut the dowel rod down to 1 meter; retain the smaller piece.  The larger of the two dowels is the range stick.  Mark six bands on the range stick, with the separations at 5cm, 10cm, 20cm, 35cm, and 60cm.  The smaller dowel can be used as a movement stick.  Mark four bands on the movement stick, with the separations 5cm apart (one band will be smaller; ignore it like the unmarked part of a ruler or cut off this excess).
I use polymer clay to quickly make small white plastic discs which I then label with a marker.  I mark about 30-40 of them with various numbers in black ink, to represent speed.  I mark another 30-40 or so with numbers in red to represent energy for weapon charging and firing.  I mark another 30-40 or so with numbers in green to represent energy for defense.  Finally, I mark another 10-15 or so with numbers in black and a small curved arrow symbol to represent energy for tight turns.  Mark both sides with different numbers and you double your number of available counters.

Next up: the Ship Design Sheet.  Stay tuned...