Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Style Arc Cargo Pant


I finally finished the Style Arc Kerry Cargo pant.  I like this pattern and it fits me pretty well.  This version is straight from the size 10 envelope.  I did cut 1" side seam allowances and sewed a 5/8" side seam - so my final side so this pattern is a smidge larger by total of .5" (an extra .25" at each side seam).


I didn't sew the side pocket or put the back pockets on this pair.  I did sew on the front pocket.  I need to watch the placement on the next pair.  These pockets are placed too low for me.  On the pattern illustration, it appears the bottom of the front pocket should be at the bottom of the knee cap.  On me, the top of the pocket starts about the knee cap.

I would probably never roll the pants up, so I don't plan to use the side tabs and didn't sew them on this pair.  I am thinking I may need to tilt the front waist UP (add length) about .5"  I will wear this pair and see how they feel.  The front rests just about 1" below the b-button.

Back view:


Side view - see how flat that bottom is?

I did sew the drawstrings, but I DO KNOW BETTER.  I DON'T LIKE DRAW STRINGS.  They don't gather the waist evenly and just don't feel right.  SO, I removed the drawstring, ignored the front buttons holes (yes, that had already been cut to insert the drawstring) and attached 3/4 or 7/8" elastic.  Turned it down and topstitched.  Much better, for me anyway!

This fabric is mystery and may just be a bit "heavy" for this pattern.  It is a rayon blend, but blended with what is anyone's guess.  It came from Pursley's during their going out of business.  I think it was $1.68/yd so great for this "muslin."

After finishing the pants, I pulled out the Peggy Sager Sillhouette pattern # 4000,the Swing Dress.  She calls it her "funeral dress."  Her version is black/sleeveless.  She wears all types of jacket/cardigan/topper with it and says it is so versatile.  I'd swear that I made this dress YEARS ago (I've had the pattern for years) and that I didn't care for the fit.  But, there was no "traced" pattern in the envelope (which I always trace multi-sized patterns), so my memory may be failing me.

I traced the size 8.  I think she recommends negative ease at the bust, but I generally don't like negative ease.  My bust measures 37 and the size 8 finished bust measurement is 38".  I had some black cotton interlock that I have no idea how it came to my stash.  I decided it would be a good "trial" for this pattern.  I have to say, I.LOVE.THIS.DRESS.  I lengthened at both lengthen/shorten lines -at the top to lower the bust point .5" and at the lower line to add to the overall dress length 3".  When I make this dress "for real" I'll add at least 1 more inch in length as this muslin comes just to the top of my knee (without hem).

Other alterations, I will raise the armsyce for the sleeveless version and angle the shoulder seam a bit more.  I will give the back center seam some shaping and may shape the side seams a bit more.  This is definitely a KEEPER for me.  I plan to make a black sleeveless version and I have some pretty ponte in purple and another in red.  Perhaps another will materialize in one of these fabrics and will have 3/4 length sleeve.

Sorry there is no photo. You know that black doesn't photo well.  Everytime I watch one of Peggy's webcasts, I get enthused.

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Some Answers

It takes me forever to answer questions from you left in my comment section.  If you are still reading, here are a few responses.

Jacki asked:  Do you use PatternFile for organizing your sewing patterns? Only my vintage and impulse buy patterns are in those kinds of envelopes and I'm looking for a better way to physically organize them. I have nearly all of my vintage filed on PatternFile. I've been pecking away at it, bit by bit.

Jacki, I wish I could say I have some organization to my sewing patterns, but..........I have mine sorted "mostly" by skirts, dresses, pants, jackets, knit tops, woven  tops.  My vintage are in a separate bin generally by era i.e., 40's 50's etc.  I have dreams of getting my patterns in an organized online system, but that just hasn't materialized yet.  I continue to hope!

Susan asked:  I just have to ask if you are in the DFW area, the southwest area? There was a Pursley's in the town where I went to high school.

Susan, I do live in the DFW area.  I am just between 35 and 40 miles SE of Dallas.  I worked in Dallas for over 30 years.  Made the commute to downtown the last 20 years or so from here.  Before that, we lived in Dallas.  Pursley's had two locations that I knew about, one in Duncanville (the bigger one) and one in Lancaster.  I think they had been there since the 50's.  We went to the Duncanville store almost exclusively.  I miss them already!


Sharon asked: That is really cool! Did the auction have a photo of the back of the envelope showing the pattern piece?

Hi Sharon, you were referring to the pattern in this post.  Unfortunately, this was the only photo shown for the e-bay auction.  If I somehow missed seeing another photo, I also missed saving a copy.

Update on recent sewing:  The cape fit a bit snug in the shoulders (which is the only place there is "fit") so I will give her a bit more room there.  Other than that, she was happy with the length (the mid-length shown on the pattern envelope,but which is just below mid-calf on her).  I hope to get to Dallas to the garment district area this week to see if there is some appropriate black fabric.  If I can't find any, I'll start online looking.

Regarding the Style Arc pants - never made it to the sewing room this weekend.  Napped during football games this afternoon after church. "Tomorrow is another day." according to Scarlett.

Friday, September 23, 2011

Some This and That Sewing

I finally got to spend a little time in the sewing room.  The brown skirt is this New Look Pattern made from some lovely rayon/lycra.  It was mailed to DGD this week.  She asked if I would make a few skirts for her as she is in grad school and working two jobs and doesn't want to pay (as she put it) $30 - $50 for a skirt. Plus she said so many of them are just too short; she's 5'10" (or very close).  I made this a straight size 10 and waiting to hear if it fits like she wants.  Simple, simple--two side seams, fold the band over 1.5" elastic (I couldn't lay hands on the 2"  elastic) and serge on.  I just rolled hemmed it.





Next up was the "muslin" of this pattern.  My SIL asked last year if I would consider making her a hooded cape.  She's not really into winter coats (and we have so few "winter" days here) she feels she would get more use of a cape.  I had made her a short swing jacket for her B-day several years, ago and she has worn it to death.  It's time for something else--so I agreed.

I watched for cape patterns on e-bay and we both thought this would be appropriate.  I think its an early 70s pattern.


She's asked for black.  I suggested a royal blue or wine color, but she really wanted black, so black it will be.  I'm watching the online fabric sites for an appropriate wool for wool/blend.  I've got time.  We ususally don't need wraps here until November (and sometimes not until January).  I'd like to have it completed by the end of October.  I'll have her try on this muslin when I see her tomorrow.  Capes are great - no real fitting!




You may remember that I mentioned in this post that I had a problem with the sleeveless Butterick top. I think it was probably due to the fabric.  I don't this it was "drapey" enough OR I may have stretched it some when sewing tghe band on.  I really like the pattern so I'm sure I'll try this one again, but it may be next spring before it resurfaces.  Can you see the "pooching?"  It is more dramatic in person than in these photos.




Today I worked on the Style Arc Cargo pant.  I think it's going to be good.  I have to complete the casing, the drawstrings (I'm adding elastic in the middle of two pieces of drawstring so I can breathe), and the hems.  this is really a "trial pair," but I think they will get worn alot.  Time will tell.  Style Arc seems to have much of the fit and many of the styles NAILED.  I'm sure I'll be sending off another order fairly soon.  I just need to be able to get more sewing room time.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Time - Where do you go?


I've been "on the go" so much this week, there has been no time for the sewing room, AND I'VE MISSED IT!  Between DH doctor appointments, a truck annual inspection, routine grocery shopping and necessary errands, there has just been no sewing time.  Tomorrow doesn't look promising - maybe Friday I'll be able to squeeze in a few hours.  Hope, hope, hope.

In the mean time, I've been browsing E-bay in the evenings.  No, I didn't bid on this one, but I found it very interesting.  I appears it would be easy to knock off.



Given some time in the sewing room, I may give it a try...........or not.  So, all you knock-off artists out there, what do ya think?