Tilton Dress Done!

I've been able to work on the dress the last couple of days.  It's been a fun project, and now that I have one under my belt, I think I will give it a go again fairly soon in a solid color linen.

I had a generous 3.5 yds of this 100% cotton.  It is so very soft, and I love the color(s).  Hardly wrinkles.  It came from C&C Fabrics in Dallas on my last trip there.  If I remember correctly, it is a "Timeless Treasure" print.

After having done a quick a dirty muslin of the bodice shortly after I purchased the pattern, I knew I could get the dress over my head without an opening, so I decided to dispense with the front placket button opening and instead, go for a tab the length of the placket and then sew on buttons.  After reading through the instructions (after I cut out the many, MANY pieces, all cut single layer) there was still some confusion as to some of the sewing instructions.  Many times, however, once I begin a project and start following the flow of the instructions, it all fits together in my mind. I can't say that that exactly happened this time, but it all came together in the end.

The way the front is constructed, I couldn't simply cut the front on the fold and then sew the fake placket down the center front.  Let me correct that last statement, I couldn't/didn't figure out how to cut it on the fold and still get the sections sewn together correctly; there might be a way; I just didn't figure it out.

So, I serged the raw edges, then using "steam a seam" light, I "pressed" the fake placket (tab) in place, centering it over the center front.  Below, you will see one side of the tab pressed and the other side waiting for the steam a seam paper to be pulled away and pressed.

A little hard to see, but I outlined the tab edges in black in the photo below.  The tab is almost invisible anyway due to the print of the fabric.

I was having trouble understanding the instructions for sewing the side seams of the under dress with the over dress, so I just did it my way.  As you can see, my under dress is a different fabric.  My generous 3.5 yds of fabric wasn't quite enough to get the under dress cut also.  I used, instead an off-white batiste in the stash.  I think it came in one of the Fabric Mart bundles.  It worked out fine and will be a good lining for our hot Texas summers.  

I sewed the batiste together at the side seams from the lower portion to the under arm and kept sewing the fashion fabric on to it's hemline.  I simply flipped them and the under dress hangs separately from the over dress.  

I ended up having to take the side seams deeper.  I had cut a size 12 at the neck and to just below the arm hole and then picked up the size 14 lines.  At the first try on, it was still too big under the arms, so I took in both sides another 5/8" on both sides.  I'm not sure what size that would be equivalent to, but it worked.

Oh, another thing I left out:  As you sew the horizontal seams, the instructions have you "skip" as in "leave the seam open" at certain areas--much like a pocket opening.  Since I used a different color under dress, I chose to sew these as solid seams.  I suppose the purpose of those openings is to add interest as you move about (?) Not sure.

I like the end result.  I chose mother of pearl buttons.  I have lots of those in the button stash, and I wanted to use something I already had.  I road tested about 4 different buttons, but decided on my first choice, the mother of pearl.

The dress is on the "short" side.  It comes to the top of my knee and with the hem asymmetrical, it seems short on the one side.  BUT, it will be a great summer fun, casual dress.  I will lengthen the next one.  The fun part will be deciding which pattern piece to add length--probably just under the arm.  Right now, I think that will be the easiest.

This wasn't a "quick" project, but an enjoyable one.  I promise to model it when I'm presentable!

Butterick 5881 - Tilton Dress

It's cut out - all forty eleven dozen pieces.  On to the sewing...............

Think Cool

I had hoped to get his dress finished today. B U T >>>>>>>>>>>

Day 20 (consecutive days) of 100+ temps here in the metroplex.  I try to get errands, etc. done prior to noon so I can veg in the house under the A/C until round 8 p.m. when I go out to feed outside critters. 

I went to my knitting group this a.m. and got home shortly after noon.  After a bite to eat, I headed for the sewing room with this green butterfly fabric on my mind.  I wanted another dress that doesn't touch the body except for the shoulders.  (think cool).  I went through the "current" patterns and didn't find one that jumped out at me for this print.  On to the "recent vintage" box.  I decided on this McCalls dated 1999.  I chose it because of the front french dart, and it also has back darts (which I may or may not sew). 

Cutting went smooth.  Lowered the dart about 1.5" and adjusted the shoulder seams for forward shoulder and that was it for alteration.  It has the neck/arm facing combined as one.  I used the method of sewing the shoulder seams, and attaching the facing at the armscyes and neckline and pulling thru the shoulder seam to the right side.  Pattern calls for a zipper.  I've gotten to the point that I try to get away without using a zipper, but I felt with the darts, I'd better bite the bullet. 

That's where things got slow........I've done dozens of invisible zippers, but Murphy was alive and well in the sewing room at that point.  Suffice it to say that I got the zipper twisted while basting--rip--missed the mark at the matching the neckline--rip--had an issue with the zipper foot--fixed......finally when it was time to decide on something for dinner, the zipper was in.

I was trying hard to make sure I didn't have a butterfly at either "strategic" front points and ended up with the big belly butterfly.  Oh well.  Not enough fabric to cut another; THIS WILL DO.

The sideseams, the back darts and the hem is all that is left.  It SHOULDN'T take that long to complete.  Hopefully, Murphy has fled the sewing room by now.

I will have plenty of time to wear it if it turns out well in the end as I KNOW there are plenty of 100+ degree days left---consecutive or otherwise.  Afterall, the month of August is still to come!

And p.s. to Susan who left a comment in my last post regarding Pursley's.  This Pursley is located in Duncanville, Texas.  He also had a smaller store in Lancaster, Texas.  It's tough seeing them close.  They have been in business about 50 years I think.  I will miss them!

The Kwik Sew Dress 3049 & Ebb Top as a Dress

 I mentioned this pattern in my last post.  I couldn't find it on the Kwik Sew website so I supposed it is OOP.  I've had this in the stash for some time and wish I hadn't waited to so to try it out.  I know bias can be a bit &*^%#$ to work with, but so far, I'm happy with the end project(s).

This is 100% cotton that someone gave me 7 yds total.  I had used it for some community service sewing projects and I thought I didn't like the print.  However, the more I used it, the more it "grew" on me.  I decided it would be good for a "wearable muslin."  I really like it!  I didn't want to have to wear a slip and knew there would be "see-thru" with the light background.  I had picked up some very pale blue batiste for $1/yd a while back.  It felt heavenly.  So, I lined with that.  The pattern calls for lining to the edge so I did as the pattern instructed and all came out fine.  Wore it to church yesterday morning and really like the way it feels.

While I was feeling good about the pattern, I pulled out this rayon that feels so nice (also some that I was given - by a different sewest).  I did not line this one but used the same instruction to finish the neckline and armscyes to cut and sew a "one piece facing."  Just a short lining of sorts.  Sorry the photo is blurry.  The red background is a true red.  My monitor is showing more orange. 

Since we have been at or above 100 degrees for the last week or so, cool dresses are welcomed.

Prior to these KS dresses I cut the Lousie Cutting Ebb top as a dress.  Relying on memory (yes, it's dangerous) I think I added 13" to make the dress length.  I had made the top last summer.  This is rayon fabric (purchased at Pursley's), but it has more body than a challis.  I did take in the sleeves and tapered the bust/waist area in a bit to give it more shape.  Prior to that, it resembled more of a potato sack.  I believe it was all due to the hand of the fabric.  Once I took it in, I liked it much better. 

Another cool, summer dress!