AFV Modeller - 2015 05-06
AFV Modeller - 2015 05-06
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MAY/JUNE 2015 • £6.50 UK $15.99
www.mengafvmodeller.com
May / June 2015
Meng AFV Modeller
LEE-WAY
Fabio Sacchi’s Tunisian M3
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CONTENTS
2 Cougar 6x6 MRAP
Domingo Hernández Martin builds the brand new Meng Models Cougar.
10 Cougar Details
Photos of the real vehicle by Patrick Winnepenninckx and Ralph Zwilling.
16 M3 Lee
Fabio Sacchi upgrades the Accademy kit to Model a Tunisian M3.
24 Leopard 2A6
Tamiya’s classic kit detailed by Jian Geo.
44 Keeping Track
More new releases
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ISSN 1747-4183
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BUILD
Starting work on assembling the Cougar I could The bottom of the chassis looks very complicated
not help being impressed with its unquestionable but in reality is very simple to build.
quality. Construction is pleasingly simple and Some of the interior details are very well
straight forward with excellent levels of detail. I represented by photoetch, I did however have
started with the lower hull, building the 3 axles some problems with the fit of the radio racks and
and the corresponding wheels with the kit I found it necessary to make some adjustments
allowing the front wheels to be turned if desired. with Evergreen plastic.
The interior will need to be painted before moving ahead with the rest of the All vehicle interior lights were painted with Ammo clear acrylic paints.
construction so I started by priming the interior parts before painting them.
One element that has great detail is the instrument panel, after applying a
base coat of black, I applied the decals and finished with a drop of gloss
varnish. The rest of the details were painted with a brush using tones of grey
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used to pick out the switch details across the instrument panel.
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BUILD
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COLOUR
I do not usually have predetermined painting procedure but I began by I started painting the lower hull of the model with Tamiya XF-59 Desert Sand
priming the model, testing for the first time the primer from Ammo which I which allowed me to shade the paint in that area of shadow.
found provided an excellent base.
I also applied the same colour over the top of the model to create the dark Before going further, I focused on the exhaust muffler, a very visible and
shadow areas under the final colour. characteristic feature of these vehicles.
I sprayed the exhaust with Tamiya XF-16 Flat After letting it dry I polished it slightly as the grain With Lifecolor Tensocrom ‘Fuel’ transparent
Aluminium after masking the rest of the area. of the paint is quite thick. acrylic I added the pink markings that can be
seen in some photos.
Using hairspray technique I added the chipped The rest of the model was clarified by spraying Desert Sand Buff with Tamiya XF-57 and XF-2 White
paint finish over the muffler. using shading to break up the large surfaces.
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COLOUR
I began the process of weathering by applying oil washes in the dark While waiting for the oils to dry, I applied some patches of Tensocrom White
recesses and wear zones and small amounts of Mud Wash Brown faded with Oxide from Lifecolor to fade selected areas.
a dry flat brush and areas of more highlight with Snow White paint.
Above The effects of shading on the model can be seen in this photo. Left One of the things I did to
customize the model was to replace the door glass with a temporary repair armour plate painted with
rusty colours and textured with a sponge.
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COLOUR
Not forgetting the machine The micro chipping marks I applied with Vallejo
gun position on the roof, I applied the German Camo Black splashing it with a brush.
same colours as the rest of the model except The rest of the exhaust system was also painted with Keep in mind that subsequent processes will
the inner hatch brush painted in grey and buff. the Tensocrom colours. cover many of them and make them more
integrated.
One of the hardest things the modeller has to simulate the dust of the desert After applying it across the surface, I used a sponge to unify it and give the
on a vehicle without it seeming unreal. I used the rainmarks effects product effect of raindrops on the dust.
from Ammo, which is lighter than the model colour.
The finished effect can be seen in this photo and it was then allowed to dry. In some specific areas I applied some of Tamiya XF-55 Deck to break the
You can build up this technique with additional layers until you get the effect symmetry of the spots.
you want.
Of course on the clear parts it is more noticeable and you can see the effect I took advantage of letting the model dry for a couple of days by starting to
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of these microdots of dust. work on the wheels. The tires come with an excellent surface texture but
must be treated a bit to grip the paint. They were washed thoroughly with
water and a drop of detergent and after priming the wheels, I painted the
rims with Gaia 002 Gloss Black.
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COLOUR
The rubber was painted with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and drops of XF-15 Flat A light coat of Tamiya XF-57 Buff was sprayed around the rims on both sides
Flesh. of the wheels.
Using North Africa Dust, European Earth and pigment fixer from Ammo I On the lower part of the model I began to apply the same pigments as used
added dirt and dust trying not make all wheels the same. on the wheels with a large brush.
To fix it I used a syringe to add a few drops of Tamiya X-20 acrylic thinners. To avoid monotony I used various colours applied by spattering them using a
stick and a long brush.
The final details are few washes in the corners, transmission I added some wiring systems to the vehicle for realism and break up the monochrome sand 9
with Engine Grime and Fresh Engine Oil. scheme.
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COUGAR
The windows are always a bit delicate to deal with using dust, so after Another detail to add interest, in this case at the back is a sign cut to size
masking, I applied Matt Base from Tamiya with airbrush leaving a thin layer and placed with some masking tape painted grey to simulate duct tape.
that is easily treatable.
The turret completed with all elements in place. The machine gun was The direction indicators are painted using Tamiya X-26
finished with semi-Gloss Black and some graphite effects on the edges. Clear Orange. A detail of duct tape on the front fender
of the model to repair a small collision, was made with
masking tape painted with Vallejo Oily Steel.
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COUGAR
This kit was a pleasure to work on and it provides the choice to build the
Cougar 6x6 as I modelled or the Cougar 6x6 HEV, which carries the spare
wheels on each side of the body. The truth is that I built the model out of the
box and it has been designed with some clever features to make it easier to
build and paint, to enjoy and have fun! I was happy to overlook the very
slightly long bonnet and I think the overall finished look of the Cougar
captures the look of the real vehicle.
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COUGAR IN DETAIL
Photos by Patrick Winnepenninckx & Ralph Zwilling
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FABIO SACCHI
takes on the challenge
of the 1:35 Academy kit
M3 Lee Medium Tank with a 75mm gun in the casemate and a
37mm gun in turret, an old concept that
At the beginning of WWII, the U.S. was still employed in the French Char
Army’s situation in terms of armoured B1Bis and in the less powerful Italian
forces was extremely poor both in M11/39. The Design was far from optimal
number and in quality. Only after German but it was relatively easy to build. The
victories using new tank warfare primary objective was not to have the
doctrines did the U.S. Army start an best medium tank in the world, but have
urgent tank development program. a lot of “reasonable” operational tanks.
The first medium tank was mostly an During its relatively short production life,
“interim” solution based on a less than it underwent several modifications and
satisfactory M2A1 design, but armed was the test bed for alternative power
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units which were then exploited in its kit are the engine deck (1mm too short)
successor: the M4 Sherman. By 1943 the and the turret gun axis is off by 2mm
M3 was obsolete as a combat tank but making the gun barrel sit awkwardly too
was still used with good results in the PTO, low. The Good news is that the overall
while in Europe it was employed for casemate dimensions are quite good,
training or converted in M31 recovery though a challenge to assemble due to the
vehicles. multiple part design. The lower hull
measures respectably well too.
The model I thought the kit was worth a try, and
I always wanted to make an M3 lee but thanks to some aftermarket help, actually
realistically the Tamiya kit was too incorrect turned into a really fun project.
to bring it to an acceptable level, at least
for my expectations. We need also to The subject
remember that it is a strange combination I do like Olive Drab very much, and the
of parts of an M3 and a diesel powered infinity of shades (yes far more than 50!)
M3A2, so not good! For a period, a you can replicate, so my choice was a U.S.
Canadian Company, Armoured Brigade operated tank in North Africa.
Models, marketed a full resin kit which was Yes, its true that U.S. Marines used them
considered top notch. Unfortunately the too in the Pacific but they were M3A2 with
Internet and e.commerce were not at the the diesel powerplant, and this would have
level they are today and I missed out on meant additional surgery.
buying one. I opted for a battered M3 of 1st A.D. soon
Finally Academy announced and released after the Kasserine disaster. It would have
an M3 kit, but, as often happens with been a mid production M3 with stamped
Academy, it turned out to be a mixed bag. wheels, longer M2A1 75mm gun, “quickfix”
Actually, the first production run was fishtail exhaust kit and more efficient
plagued by incorrect bogey heights. Even if external air cleaners.
this issue was later corrected, still the
detail and finesse are not the best.
Apart from the bogies, major faults of this 17
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Project ingredients care is needed in gluing the sections of place. Fishtails were modified by using an
My kit was an initial batch with the wrong bolts as an unwanted recess is left at the M4 exhaust system. An additional
bogies, I therefore bought a set of TASCA base. I sparingly used Mr Dissolved Putty modification was the external square-type
Early Bogies, a Passion Model M2A1 to fill the recess, taking care not to ruin any air cleaners, I borrowed these from a
75mm barrel for the Sherman together with bolt detail. Flanges are in reality two lips Dragon kit, but they will be fixed to some
an Armorscale 37mm M7 Gun, some 0.30 held together by the bolts. Just to enhance side wall extensions on the upper engine
barrels and initial Stamped Wheels from the fact it would be good to scribe a line in deck...more on this later.
Formations. the centre. Then it’s time to recreate the As I planned to change the moulded
Tracks are a problem. M3s wore T41 track rough casting appearance of the parts. I engine air intake with a photoetched mesh,
which is not available in any aftermarket use Mr Surfacer 500 stippled with a stiff looking inside it would simply look empty, I
catalogue...well, almost. Model Kasten T51 brush. Should it look too rough as after therefore adapted some fuel tanks and a
tracks are moulded with rubber pads with waiting at least a day, Mr Surfacer 500 portion of an engine from Verlinden set
the same thickness on both sides...so they tends to shrink and level. If it is still too dedicated to the M4. This was all painted
became an ideal choice to substitute the rough, it is simple enough to paint the prior to closing the hull. With the lower hull
stiff rubber bands. Nowadays Bronco’s T51 surface with Tamiya Green Cap adhesive to ready it was time to focus on the upper
set would give the same result as well as smooth down the effect. During this hull.
Dragon T41 in DS styrene. treatment ensure that all seam lines
Some photoetched pieces from scrap box between the cover and the flange also
increased some of the finer details also. disappear. Remember to reproduce two
As I was planning a fair amount of small notches on the top of flange that
improvements, I decided to divide the corresponds with the two hull 0.30 Cals.
project in subassemblies so that I could
tackle one challenge a time: Lower Hull, Once I was happy with the tranny cover, I
Upper Hull, Turret and Running Gear. took care of the rear wall. Academy’s kit is
designed to mount the “pepperpot” type
Lower Hull exhausts. Soon after entering service, it
Dimensionally we are ok, give or take a was realised that they were overheating the
fraction of millimetre. Areas of rear engine wall. A quick-fix solution was
improvement here are the front designed by substituting them with simple
transmission cover and rear wall. The three fishtail exhausts pointing downwards. To
piece transmission cover is pretty basic but reproduce this mod, the raised moulded
useable. Instead of following the details around the original exhausts needs
instructions, I built it completely, including to be carved away and 6 symmetrical
the upper bolted flange which was, by the holes of 0.30mm diameter need to be
way, part of the casting process. Some drilled where fixing bolts were originally in
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Upper Hull different story with the rear casemate wall. After all these tweaks a final job was to add
As said before, the upper hull dimensions After several dry-runs and some trimming, I some bolt heads or rivet heads to detail the
are ok, some bolt heads are missing for my ended up with a fair amount of filler on the version I wanted to depict. One rivet has to
subject, but this is not a mistake per-se but joint with the roof. The left hand side of the be added on the left sidewall and additional
most likely details from different production rear wall bolting is wrong. Instead of rivets, 5 on the right side. Again,these
plants. Here, the advice is to carefully check this plate was fixed with round head screws, modifications are NOT kit errors but simply
photos to correctly reproduce these this is to allow an easy dismounting of the production variations.
elements. What was driving me crazy was 75mm gun. The gun casemate was a cast I also changed the six bolts fixing the gun
the gluing sequence of the parts composing part, for this reason I treated the surface casemate to the roof reinforcing bar with
the upper hull. There are seven pieces that with Mr Surfacer 500 continuing on the gun Bronco castle nuts, which are much better
need to fit together perfectly. A fraction of a shield. In addition, its shape (a full circle) is defined.
millimetre mistake in the first joint and by not 100% correct. With photos of the real I turned then to the engine deck area. As
the end all seven pieces will not fit anymore! thing it is possible to detect a “flat” area I’ve said, it’s 1mm short but I did not want
I started with both sides kept in place with around the gun rotor shield and the rebuild it entirely so I opted for cosmetic
Gunze extra thin cement. It dries so quickly presence of two counter-sunk bolts per improvements. This includes a thinning
that it will be hard to move out of position part. down of the rear plate and reconstructing
during curing. Once the alignment is Another incorrect detail on the cast gun the rear joints with plastic strip. Being a
checked and correct, all other parts will fit casemate are the 5 bolts for fixing the mid/late model, I had to recreate the steel
with no major issues. I was lucky: all 3 sandshield. I reshaped the area and added extensions at the rear engine deck where
frontal parts went together pretty well a 0.40mm strip creating the lip on which the the new external air filters were then
without the need for filler but it was a bolts were replaced. attached.
Turret I sanded away the cast rib and added the doing this a small gap on the top of armour
Turret dimensions are pretty good. front reinforcement made with some epoxy case needs to be filled with epoxy putty.
Curiously enough ACADEMY decided to putty further textured with Mr Surfacer 500. This will improve the final look and it will
depict a vertical cast reinforcement, which With a piece of styrene strip I then added align the gun with the aiming sight
unfortunately was not present on most of the missing visor tilt support. correctly. I finally detailed the twin-fold
the Tunisia M3s, but they overlooked the Now it’s time to tackle the major issue: the hatch by adding some bolts and the
cast reinforcement at the left hand front incorrect gun axle height. The surgery is protective pads.
and the tilt support for turret visor is simply rather simple, cutting away the gun armour
missing. extension and re-gluing it 2.5mm higher, by
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Part One
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1:10
1
produced since July 1944 (Panzer Tracts, 5-169) and the late style
layout of the turret roof including a newly designed mount for the
scissors periscope, electrical cables mounted in metal tubing, the
commanders small lamp mounted directly to the copula and a
simplified mount for the Panzerkasten 21 (commanders intercom box).
Unfortunately it is not totally clear when these internal changes were
introduced. At least the October produced MAN example well
documented in spectacular new book “Nürnberg’s Panzer Factory” by
MacDougall/Neely showed all of them (p.181). In addition most likely
the famous disc-pattern camouflage was employed at MNH for the
camouflage of this Panther. The lack of quality in the photo frustrated
me, because it made some guess work necessary. But fortunately this
also makes it hard to disprove the assumptions that I have made!
Construction:
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I decided not to base my project on any commercially available kit but
to take on the challenge of making figure and tank section completely
from scratch. I chose a new scale for me: 1:10. Its a popular scale for
bust modelling and it offered me the opportunity for a high level of
detail.
I started on the tank with some scaled up copies of the plans from
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Jentz/Doyle’s “Panzer Tracts” to establish the necessary dimensions
of the planned circular cut out section of Panther starting by making
the turret roof armour plate (Pic 1). Because the special zimmerit
pattern was one of the most striking aspects of the tank the upper
sections of the side and back armour plates were to be done as well.
To fix the sidewalls exact angles I made a frame of the exact
dimensions, which could later on be adapted to hold the completed
turret section (Pic 2).
4 5
6 7
9 10
11 12 13
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beads were added and textured with home made tools (Pic 9). For periscopes themselves were cast from clear material from a
the first time I used a tap drill to make screw threads for many plastic master (Pic 13) using epoxy-resin E45GA from the German
fixings, which did not make sense in every single case but made Breddermann company (Pic 14). Very thin self-adhesive sections
them helpfully removeable in others - and it was a nice new of mirror foil were added afterwards for extra realism (Pic 15).
experience (Pic 10). In addition it offered the opportunity to make Brass tube was used to add the wiring to the turret roof (Pic 16)
the late style periscope mounts a working system (Pic 11). The and the completed turret interior is show in Pic 18.
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One of the most fascinating projects I installed. The fender received a metal to deflect incoming RPG projectiles and
could see was an attempt to convert T-55 frame on which a new metal box explodes the warhead away from the main
and T-62 hulls to form a kind of a new construction was built. fighting compartment.
heavy tank concept. The earlier attempts The new construction houses a new form The conversion will increase the overall
at protecting the T-55 tanks saw the of the fuel cells, is continuous, and is height of the T-62 hull and will cause the
installation of new boxes on the fenders. shaped in an angle so as to protect the turret to be sitting within the now raised
The second version being built here shows turret base. The various fixture points will superstructure. However, the main gun will
a totally new approach. then receive reactive armour bricks which not be able to fire at 0 angle when rotated
This very early T-62 has had its side fender will be mated to become a forward facing and must always be adjusted to +8
totally removed, and a new platform V shape. The intended shape is supposed degrees on left and right positions. Surely
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a concern for the crew when in action. and welded over for unknown reasons. The exposed ammunition configuration. By any
camouflage pattern is reminiscent of the standards an explosive upgrade…
An early T-62 turret with the distinctive early ‘80s when the communist Derg was The sheer size of the new carousel will
rounded shape and the simplified loaders ruling the country. make any maintenance in the engine bay a
hatch is also being converted to be mated I could only wonder when seeing this T-62 challenge to the mechanics. I could not
to the new hull. The turret has been turret is the validity of the project! Why confirm it, but I have serious doubts that
soldiering for a long time and has received would anybody want to cut open a T-62 the turret would actually be traversable
no less than 3 sure hits or kills in its past. turret and try to install an external auto once mated to the new hull with its raised
Countless weld marks can be visible at loader carousel? The extra stowage place sides…
various locations. All side rails and given with the new autoloader is surely
attachment points have been removed, negated when considering the fully
tank refurbishment
ETHIOPIAN facillity by Moustafa Assad
Another late model T-55 hull sits idle with a large stock of brand
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The German Leopard 2 main battle tank series are my favourite of the smallest parts included which is always welcome!
modern tanks, this is my excuse for collecting all the kits available; Although the kit’s rubber track has good detail I purchased the
Tamiya, Italeri, Revell and Hobby boss. Kits include the basic A4, Trumpeter workable track links which have more finesse. Each
A5 and A6. track link consists of four parts in a resilient styrene, the sprue
Tamiya’s Leopard 2A6 is not a new tooling, but based on an connection is designed on the hidden side helping with clean-up
earlier listing (No.35242) Leopard 2A5 with the longer L55 gun time. With patience, assembly work is not complicated, the set
barrel, transparent lights, two crew figures and road signs. The also includes two resin drive sprockets and idler wheel, but with
difference between the appearance of the two models is really the shape and detail as-per the kit parts I opted not to use them.
only the gun barrel. Even though this model is already ten years
old, in my opinion it’s the most accurate. It continues also the With my PE and tracks ready it was time to make a detail-rich
Tamiya tradition of being easy to assemble. Leopard 2A6!
To add more details, I used Voyager’s Leopard 2A5 upgrade set
containing seven photoetch frets, although it is one of Voyager 's
first products the design is very user-friendly with spares of some
LEOPARD
A6
Jian Geo details
Tamiya’s classic 1:35 kit
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Tamiya’s kit assembled very well with not too many errors to fix
and no filler required. My only modification was to enlarge the
holes which mount the suspension arms so that you can
manually adjust the height of each road wheel (only required if
you’re mounting onto uneven groundwork). On the rear engine
deck I added weld beads with stretched sprue around the cooling
fan housings and on the side skirts and hull side connecting point
I made new accurately shaped pieces from plastic card (see
picture above).
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Periscopes and sighting optics are an paper and finally polished with Tamiya a hint of colour, looking very neat and
important visual effect of modern armour polishing compound. The edges were adding a certain ‘glint’ of realism to the
models. Tamiya provides a thin plastic painted clear green for the vision blocks. In finished model. With the periscopes put
transparent panel, too thin to properly the same way, I transformed the aside for fitting later I primed the areas of
reflect transparent green or clear blue. The panoramic and Gunner’s sight with clear brass with Tamiya Metal Primer then an
Leopard 2A6 periscopes are large and red and clear blue, again along the edges overall coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 which was
easily made with 2mm acrylic. Shaped with of the parts. Once in place, the light left to dry.
a file and sanded with 800,1500 and 2000 reflection of these transparent parts shows
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Collecting images from the internet I found to provide a strong barrier. adhesive which I replicated with a fine
a variety in the tones of greens and browns NATO Green base colour covered the brush and Vallejo 70950 Black mixed with
used and decided to copy the brighter entire model and once dry, Mr. Masking Sol Vallejo 71039 Hull Red and 70977 Desert
hues to give my Leopard 2A6 some lively R was applied with a No.0 brush to define Yellow.
colour. Although the real tank’s camouflage the edges of the brown then black. This Decals were applied onto locally sprayed
is soft edged, it is so fine that it looks like a method is suitable for use on a flat surface. gloss varnish to minimise any edges or
hard edged pattern which I thought would Convex or complex shapes were best silvering. Tamiya offers a total of four
look more realistic in 1:35. Using Gunze Mr. masked first with Silly Putty then edges vehicle identification numbers : Munster
Masking Sol R and Silly Putty I created the completed with Mr. Masking Sol R. The Armour School / 2nd company, 104th
masks I needed to airbrush the standard camouflage pattern for the A6 panzer battalion/3rd Company, 403rd
camouflage. I chose the Gunze NATO was followed and it was satisfying to Panzer Battalion and 5th Company, 203rd
camouflage set adding a little brighter remove the messy looking masking to Panzer Battalion, I chose the 2nd company,
vibrance; TC10 NATO Green with C44 Tan reveal the smooth three-tone paintwork. 104th panzer battalion. Further internet
and C4 Yellow, TC11 NATO Brown with C43 The turret and the hull are covered by anti- studies show the Leopard actually belongs
Wood Brown and TC12 NATO Black with slip sections, the hull areas being different to the first 102 Armoured Brigade, 13th
C62 White. The NATO Green was not the to the turret. The hull has anti-slip mats Panzergrenadier Division. Mr Mask
first colour applied; because I wanted to which are separately attached to the metal Softener was applied to the decals to bed
create scratches later, Gunze C-21 Middle surface for maintenance reasons. Some them down around details and a final coat
Stone and Vallejo 70.978 covered the side can be inconsistent with the surrounding of matt varnish gives a uniform finish.
skirts and then Gunze GX-100 Super Clear metal colours and have a residue of
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The Leopard’s roadwheels have a very The anodised finish of the silver ring was
particular look which I was keen to achieved with oil paint washes with the bolt
accurately reproduce. Starting with my detail highlighted with a black wash.The
base colour NATO green I created my own bolts were picked out with pure silver and
masks using card and a cutting compass. some chipping through to the primer
The central ring first received an airbrushed around the rims was carefully picked out
coat of Vallejo silver which provides a with a fine brush. Further interest is added
strong contrast against the green. More with the rusted bare metal sprocket ring
masks were cut to allow me to airbrush the and the red lube points. Two of the
tyres, both the black and silver could of roadwheels of my subject Leopard
course be brush painted but I feel the extra appeared in an overall green, again, added
effort to spray the colours is worth it. visual interest.
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The first stage of colouring the tracks was a base-coat The inner face of the tracks was first masked with Using a technique learned from modeller Adam Wilder
of Gunze black with a touch of silver to add a metallic tape along the areas where the roadwheels make I added brighter speckles of fresh oxidisation by
sheen. This was airbrushed and allowed plenty of time contact and then given an airbrushed coat of loading a paintbrush with a heavily diluted mix and
to dry. Tamiya NATO brown. Again, a tiny amount of silver blowing through the bristles with the airbrush resulting
was added. in a random splattered texture.
A light coating of Tamiya buff added a dusty feel and Gentle dry-brushing of Tamiya Titanium Silver A final touch was some dried-on mud and dust done
toned down the contrast of the brighter rust. The adds to the metallic effect of the inner face of the with small applications of pigment powders. The
exterior of the track pads were now picked out in track. This colour was also used to pick out some tracks were now ready to mount onto the running
Vallejo black. of the track connectors suggesting new fittings. gear.
off with a barrier coat of clear. The top coats of colour can be easily
removed with a sharp blade and softened with some thinner.
Revealing the base colour this way (as it happens on the actual
Leopard) results in a more realistic appearance.
Paint chips can take on many shapes and tones, camo colours of
brown and black may just be scratched through to the base green
while deeper chipped paint may be through to the primer or bare
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Final thoughts
With the photoetch, individual track links
and extra detailing my Leopard 2A6 was a
lengthy project. The Tamiya kit still can look
very nice built straight from the box but the
extra work takes the detail to a more
satisfying level.
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new releases
KEEPING TRACK
HLU35081
HLX48358
HLU35080
HLH72040
HLH72038
HLH72039
HLX48360
Hauler HLX48359
Hauler can always be relied on for something different and with resin wheel rims and tyres included, HLX48359 is for another
produce some very sensible upgrades in several scales. Tamiya kit, the Dingo Mk.II and finally in forty-eighth HLX48360
Photoetch in 1:72 is not for the fainthearted but will enhance any 'Steel Containers' which appear to be a more modern
braille-scale miniature; HLH72038 is a set of tiny valve hand warehouse/pallet type affair. A couple of 1:35 diorama accessories
wheels, HLH72039 is a comprehensive detail set for the MK72 with HLU35080 a set of resin cast barrels and milk churns (four of
Sd,Kfz. 250/1 and HLH72040 will look superb on Revell's Flak 36. each) and HLU35081 which is a resin solid fuel burning stove. All
Hauler are saviours to the quarter-scale modeller and there's quality throughout as you'd expect from Hauler, www.hauler.cz
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more in 1:48 with HLX48358 for Tamiya's German sidecar combo
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Aber
We begin our look at the latest Aber releases with their cleaning rods combine brass parts with wooden shafts. Braided
magnificent 1:16 boxed set ‘Exclusive Edition’ 16 K02 which is a metal tow cables come with brass eyes and turned brass collars.
combined conversion/upgrade set to convert the Tamiya Tiger 1 to There are a total of seventeen photoetched frets, many of which
one of the s.Pz.Abt. 501 vehicles serving in Tunisia. This is a big have been carried over from Aber’s original Tiger 1 upgrade but
box of bits with multiple turned brass, resin and photoetched there are also quite a few new parts. Aside from all the expected
parts provided for what is truely a de-luxe upgrade set. 501 tool clasps and tow rope clasps the set gives you the new front
vehicles were distinguished by their unique treadplate front mudflaps, replacement fenders, full front hatch mechanisms,
mudflaps, headlamp brackets, slotted exhaust covers and rear engine deck screens, Fiefel hoses, rear mudguards, exhaust
track link racks, all of which are provided in the set. There are new covers, turret bin, parts to detail the crew headphones and
resin sections for the front of the hull to give the correct profile uniform insignia and even a bucket to hang off the back. It is
and a resin part to plug the turret escape hatch and to model the without doubt a very comprehensive set and not something suited
early pistol port configuration. Beautifully machined metal parts to the novice modeller. To get the best out of this you need to be
are provided for a complete replacement gun barrel, Smoke very comfortable in working with photoetched parts but at this
grenade launchers with grenades, covers for the launchers and scale these details are very visible and the work pays off in the
even decals for the grenades. There is a new fire extinguisher with finished results. Stunning detail for those who demand the very
decals, machine guns for hull and turret, front hatch hinges and best from their large scale modelling and you cannot help but be
tow hooks and machined parts to create the binocular driver’s impressed with the scope and quality of this superb package.
visor openings. There are also parts to assist in converting the www.aber.net.pl for details of this and the rest of the Aber range. 47
Fiefel air filter boxes including jigs to shape the curved parts. Gun
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MK35
France’s MK35 certainly come up with some great off-beat figures either World War. F248 is an older gent with some belongings
in 1:35 to spark the imagination, here’s a few new releases to bundled together (easily converted into carrying a multitude of
inspire a vignette or diorama. A French movie camera man in objects) and very nicely sculpted he is too. My favourite has to be
Tanker’s gear is depicted with F249, F247 is a nicely sculpted U.S the young woman negotiating her way around a honking
figure who looks like he’s been souvenir hunting with a German goose,F250, she’s sporting a large brimmed hat and guarding
48 helmet and also a puppy to look after! closely a basket of vegetables. Great stuff as usual from MK, find
MK35 always deliver excellent civilian figures as demonstrated out more about their range at www.mk35.com.
here, these two would suit any Western European scene from
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Accurate Armour 1:35 Danish Leopard 2A5DK Conversion Sets (for Tamiya or Hobby Boss kits)
A couple of smashing conversions to adapt either the Tamiya or the new bow armour sits atop the kit parts but you will need to
the Hobby Boss Leopard 2A5 kits to the version operated by the sand off the base kit ant-slip panels before fitting it. Fitting the new
Danes. These vehicles feature redesigned bow armour similar to APU to the hull requires you to cut away the corner of the hull in
the Swedish STRV 122, completely redesigned rear turret and a order to fit the new part, and careful measuring allowed me to do
remodelled auxiliary power unit built into the rear corner of the hull this without any problems. Similarly you have to chop off the back
as well as other smaller changes like turret top stowage bins and of the turret and blank off the opening in order to add the new
new smoke grenades. Certainly not an easy set of modifications to boxes but it is nothing very difficult to achieve. New vehicle tools
make so it is great to see Accurate Armour providing this set and with detailed clasps are provided and there is a jig to assist in
the quality is really top notch too. The set provides all the resin shaping the front headlamp guards A small photoetch fret provides
conversion parts required and its quite a collection! The new parts grilles for the air conditioning unit, front mudflaps and guard cages.
for the rear of the turret are crisply detailed and the set provides Two decal sheets provides a choice of unit markings and generic
optional track grousers to mount on the rails running around the markings. This will save a lot of work if you want to model the
sides of the boxes. In the Tamiya version there is a complete Danish Leopard with its attractive bright green camouflage - highly
replacement rear hull panel which marries perfectly to the kit and recommended. www.accurate-armour.com
Verlinden Productions
More to populate a 1:35 urban diorama from Verlinden around 70mm length), 2822 which is a pair of concrete electricity
Productions. All include cleanly cast resin parts and all of the posts of different heights and 2823 provides a pair of lamp posts
required tubing, plastic rod etc to complete these very detailed suitable for post-war scenes (no pun intended). Historex are a
features. 2821 represents a fuel or water tank (fairly large at Verlinden distributer in the UK or check out verlindenonline.com
Merkava Siman 2
By Michael Mass & Adam O’Brien
Published by Desert Eagle Publishing
Softback Portrait format, 83 pages
ISBN 978-965-91635-8-8
www.deserteagle-publishing.com
This is one of those books that just immediately has you wanting excellent reference for uniforms and some great relaxed poses
to make a model of the vehicles inside it and it is packed with like the bored-looking instructor slumped in his turret top-
colour photos of the Merkava 2 in service with the IDF. The book mounted seat. A detailed walkaround section is next with
begins with a helpful illustrated guide to all the different Merkava excellent reference pictures and diagrams. We especially liked the
types and derivatives before moving straight into photos of the shots of the randomly stowed turret basket and the heavily worn
vehicle in combat and in action and showing a vast difference in paint on the turret roof. Its a very complete and detailed study of
finishes as a result of the environment. There are some absolutely the vehicle which also includes a section on photos of the interior.
filthy vehicles caked in dust and oil stains which would make The Nochri Mine Roller system is also covered in detail along with
superb subjects to model. Mud covered examples operating on battering rams and towing adapters, and concludes with a
the Golan heights offer another equally attractive challenge. section on vehicle markings. Perfect modelling reference and an
Merkava crew are the subject of the next chapter providing essential book for fans of IDF Armour.
AMX-30 Family If you have any of MENG’s AMX-30 versions here’s a cracking visual reference in the Kagero
By M.P. Robinson ‘Photosniper’ series featuring studies of the AMX-30D recovery vehicle, the GCT and Au-F1 self
Published by Kagero propelled guns, AMX-30R Roland and AMX-30SA Shahine anti-aircraft missile launchers, AMX-30
Softback A4 format, 96 pages Bitube DCA anti-aircraft tank, AMX-30H Bridgelayer and the EBG armoured engineer vehicle. All
ISBN 978 83 64596 24 7 vehicles are covered with a good mix of text and photographs featuring overall views, action shots
www.casematepublishing.co.uk and good close-up reference providing great conversion reference and inspirational weathering
and colour schemes. Seven pages of nicely rendered colour plates have you itching to get building
as do the shots from the Iraqi base of the GCTs put out to pasture. Recommended reading for any 53
French armour fan.
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LW013
LW008
LW014 LW015
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MiniArt’s Kit
A well detailed chassis and
engine can be built straight
from the box.
Magic Sculp was rolled into thin sheets and was used to make the Headlamps are from Royal Model and the etched grille is an optional part
tarpaulin cover. from the kit.
All parts fit together very well, but Sculp. I prefer to roll the putty between softened with plastic glue. To enlarge the
because of the tiny details it’s more a kit baking paper so that nothing sticks display, I used an ammunition trailer from
for the experienced modeller. together, baby (talcum) powder also Tristar, which was built straight out of the
I added two jerrican holders to the helps. You must find a balance where the box. If you add a trailer to a German
fenders and changed the headlights to putty is thin enough to look natural, but WW2 truck, you have to build the
Royal Model’s ones. also thick enough to make for triangular sign on the cabin in a upright
I wanted the vehicle carrying a tarpaulin comfortable sculpting. First I worked on position, take note!
cover over the load bed so I switched the the ends, and once dried out I added the
plastic tarpaulin bows to exact copies top cover in one large sheet. The seam
made of copper wire for strength. lines you can see in the pictures are
The canvas was made of rolled out Magic made of thin Evergreen plastic strips
The trailer was taken from a Tristar Flakpanzer I kit, I only added some etched
parts from the sparebox
The kit was given a dark grey base using Lifecolour UA 207 Panzergrey
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The vehicle received a black primer from Here I used Sepia and 502 Abteilung In my eyes a “must have” on Afrika-Korps
AK interactive. This primer gives a very Industrial Earth. vehicles is an air recognition flag. Again
thin and matt base for the following MIG Productions also offers a set of three rolled out Magic Sculp was used for this. I
colours. The entire vehicle was painted in filters specially for Afrika Korps vehicles did it in the same way as the tarpaulin.
Lifecolor UA 207 Panzer grey. Here I which were used to give a variation in Here I had the special challenge to sculpt
worked with the ‘hairspray’ technique. colours done in a very subtle way. All the it as if blowing in the wind. I formed the
Two layers of AK Interactive chipping filters I use I mix on a white tile together putty and supported it in the desired
medium were applied in this case. A mix with some white spirit. I feel I have more position with the help of Blu-tak which
of Lifecolour UA 201 Gelbbraun and UA control than using filters out of the bottle. can be removed when the putty is stiff.
202 Sandgrau (50:50) followed when the For the circle and the swastika I made
chipping medium is dried out completely. To get a worn effect, I added some more stencils cut out from Tamiya masking
A stiff brush and warm water was used to chipped paint. I prefer a Windsor & tape. You have to be careful that the
remove the sand-yellow paint in the Newton Series 7 ‘00’ brush to apply fine circle and swastika is on both sides of the
desired areas. Where the Africa Palm damage. For dust effects you will get flag at the exact same position!
symbols are located I added a thin layer good results with AK Interactive (AK 015)
of gloss varnish. Nordland models offers Dust effects in combination with a dose of
a large decal sheet with a great variation Mussini Napels yellow oil colour, of
of palm symbols in different sizes. course, both thinned with white spirit and
I always soften the colours of my models again mixed on a white tile.
with a thin filter of diluted artist oil colours.
A mix of Lifecolor No UA201 and UA202 was For air recognition a white bar is painted over the The exhaust was painted with the help of
airbrushed over a coat of AKI chipping medium in engine hood. Don’t forget the chipping medium the fantastic Life Colour Rust colours set.
thin random coats allowing the base-coat grey to before you spray the white (mixed with some
show through. drops of gloss varnish).
The windscreen also got a weathering with thinned AK Dust effects. I treated the
colour with white spirit to get an irregular effect.
All the edges, where most of the dust is gathered, got a pinwashing with AK Dust
effects and thinned Mussini Napels Yellow.
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The Scene
At first I placed my truck on a simple wooden base to display it First I did a overspray of heavy thinned Tamiya Buff (9:1)
but realised that it lacked it’s natural environment; I decided to followed by chipping with wood and sand colours.
make a small vignette for it. The groundwork was sculpted with I was lucky to have a barbed wire set from RMG Resin Products
clay which was covered with fine sand and small stones. in stock. This is by far the best barbed wire you can get, but I
Model Victoria offers a set of German and Italian roadsigns think it’s no longer available.
used in the African theatre. The signs are printed directly on Miniart’s figure fits the scenario with the Mercedes truck
wood. The set is really complete and contains also a resin perfectly. The sculpting and the anatomy of the figure is
barrel and assorted balsa wood. excellent, I only added a Alpine head and painted him in
The colours of the roadsigns are really bright requiring some Humbrol enamels.
weathering.
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