PORTADA 31 ING:PORTADA 19 ING 10/05/13 12:09 Página 1

no.31

no. 31 BIMOnTHLY

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1. Indice ING:ESP.NDICE 10/05/13 11:15 Página 1

2 M163 A1 VULCAN
A most remarkable and hyper-detailed kit with an equally outstanding paintjob on an anti aircraft
armored vehicle used during the Vietnam War.

Flammenwerfer
A vignette that consists of three figures with flamethrower equipment, on a scene set in 36
some ruins. An interesting vignette because of the camouflage schemes on the soldier
figures.

20 StuG. III Ausf. B

In this issue we return to the winter camouflage schemes; now it’s the turn for the
well known German assault gun. This unit has some ghastly battle damage effects
which are strikingly realistic.

KV-1 (mod. 1940)

Some of these heavy armored KV-1 Soviet tanks sported some really interesting three 42
color camouflage schemes like this one. On the color profiles’ page we offer different
camouflage schemes for this vehicle.

28 Humber Mk. I Armoured Car

British AFV’s on wheels have always been particularly attractive specially when sporting
desert camouflage schemes. This is the case with this resin Humber Mk. I. This kit does
not take long to build.

Type 89 “Chi-Ro Otsu”

In spite of their picturesque old fashioned configuration and camouflage patterns, 52
Japanese WWII tanks aren’t exactly the hobbyists’ choice. At any rate we will show here
the results that could be obtained with one of them.

62 MODELLING LESSONS: Boot tracks

A simple technique demonstrated with step by step pictures, which will help you realistically recreate footsteps on the surface of an armored vehicle.
2-14 Vulcan ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:18 Página 2

2
 Assembled by: Sergio de Usera
Múgica
Painted by: Carlos de Diego
Vaquerizo
Picture Credits: F. Cañellas Planchuelo

Italeri/Verlinden Productions 1/35

In 1965 tests were

made in order to
install the Vulcan anti
aerial defense system
on the M113 armored
vehicle carried by
aircraft. The results
obtained encouraged
the serial manufacture
of the anti aircraft
armored vehicle in
1967, now called M163
Vulcan.

T he base vehicle employed was

the M741, or an M113 with a
modified roof piece and a
modified troop compartment, with a
system to block the wheels for the fir-
ing position. In the center of the roof
was placed an open turret for housing
the General Electric M61 gun consist-
ing of six 20mm rotating tubes very
similar to the weapons designed for
the air force jets. The Gatling design
type allowed for a firing rate of about
1000 and 3000 rounds per minute. In
order to avoid an excessive ammuni-
tion use (bear in mind that it held
1900 shells in reserve) it had a selector
switch that allowed you to release 10,
30, 60 or 100 shots per round. The
assembled unit weighed about 1.5
tons; that meant that flotation units
had to be placed on the vehicle’s sides
in order to maintain its amphibious
status.

3
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The rear of the vehicle

has numerous details
created with plastic strips
of different sizes.

Photo etched tin pieces

have been used in
addition to other pieces
made from scratch using
the leftover tin sprues.

other hand we have a Verlinden con- (0.20mm thick), copper wire, styrene
A S S E M B L Y version kit made out of photo etched and tin rods. This meant that the
This kit is composed of some old tin parts and some resin pieces. There assembly period was going to be a lot
kit references that are unfortunately are many pieces made from scratch lengthier, but the results fully justified
unavailable now. On one hand we using well known products such as the time invested.
have Italeri’s styrene kit and on the Plasticard sheet, acetate sheet

The fenders and the flotation panels are entirely made out of Plasticard, because the pieces on the kit boxes (and those
available elsewhere) were inaccurate.

4
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2 3

1-Screws and rivets are plentiful and have been created

4
with a special Punch & Die hole puncher machine.
2-The tools have been made with Evergreen rods. The
small fastenings that you see all around are made out of a
yellow acetate sheet.
3-The big hinge on the hatch has been entirely made
from scratch. Aluminum strips have also been used to
create some details.
4-The driver’s hatch has been entirely made from
scratch. On top of it we can see the details created on the
gun using many 20mm tubes.

5
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5
KITS USED
Model:
- M163 A1 Vulcan, Italeri, ref. 269,
1/35 scale.
Conversion kit:
- M163 Vulcan, Verlinden
Productions, ref. 518.
Tracks:
- M113 APC track, Skybow ref.
TM-3501.
Accessories:
- Jerrycans, Italeri ref. 402.
- Seats taken from “U.S. M151A2
Ford Mutt”, Tamiya ref. 35123.
6

5-After having discarded the turret of the Verlinden

kit, detailing work began on the Italeri turret which
included some rebuilding.
6-Some of the materials employed are: Tin rods and
tubes, telephone wire and Plasticard sheet.
7-The kit was finished with a set of Skybow tracks
made up of individual track sections made out of
styrene.

6
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8-The guns are plastic tubes that have been

8
carefully sanded in order to be able to fit them
inside the resin pieces.
9-On the walls of the turret we can appreciate
the welding lines which were made with a
knife attached to a small electric welding
machine.
10-Rear view of the aiming system, totally
made from scratch.
11-Building the weapon assembly, support,
intake and the aiming systems and the basket
on the lower area of the turret took a pretty
large amount of time.

9 10

11

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12 The emblems on the sides and the

figure on the front were airbrushed
with the help of hand made adhesive
stencils. Decadry white colored trans-
fers were used for the lettering purpos-
es which were later on carefully
repainted red.
Dirt, stains and dust were hand
made with a brush using earth tones
and grays (Model Color) always highly
diluted. Then oil paints were also used
for this purpose applied in wide greatly
smeared areas (pretty much like clouds)
on all horizontal surfaces and on the

12-Once we’ve applied base color and 13

a few overall highlights, the edges of
the camouflage spots are carefully
outlined using our airbrush kit at a
pressure of ? bar.
13-Paint must be thinned out on 90%
of its specific thinning solution.
Several passes are necessary in order
to get consistency in the outlines.
14-The inside of the camouflage spots
is filled in using the same mixture but
thinned out on 75% thinner in order
to have more covering power. On the
front and the back, as well as on the
sides we’ll paint some mat black spots
lighted up with XF-52.

P A I N T I N G
The color pattern of this vehicle 14
was chosen because of its elaborate
camouflage scheme that consists of
three airbrushed colors. In addition, the
name of this unit visible on the sides
(transfers in this case) would furnish it
with a very personal touch.
The “Olive drab” base color which
was employed to cover up the kit
entirely was obtained by mixing 45%
XF-61, 45% XF-62 and 10% XF-11, all
Tamiya acrylic references. By adding
some XF-60 to the mixture we’ve air-
brushed a few lighter areas and other
general highlights.
The lighter camouflage spots were
obtained by mixing equal proportions
of XF-59, XF-60, XF-52 and XF-55
(Tamiya acrylics thinned out 90%). Afterwards and only on the back, front vertical and inclined areas perpendicu-
Once the contours were clearly out- and sides of the vehicle we did other lar to the ground we’ve imitated the
lined with the airbrush kit we proceed- camouflage spots on XF-1 toned down effect of rain when it drags dirt.
8
ed to fill in the inside of the spots. with a little XF-52. Once the oil paints dried up, dirt
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The black square that will frame the image is made with the In this picture we can see the results obtained.
help of adhesive masking cut to measure.

The image on the black square is also painted using a This system works well for painting all sorts of
newly made piece of masking tape. Paint should be emblems and designs.
fairly thinned out. You should have to apply several
layers in order to cover up the surface. In order to
avoid puddles and filtered paint on unwanted areas,
you should airbrush a small amount of paint and allow
each layer to dry up well.

Letters and numerals are transfers applied in a straight The type of letter transfers suitable for this kit,
line with the guide of the edge of an adhesive note. were only available in white. This forced us to paint
The surrounding areas have been masked in order to the letters red once applied.
avoid accidental letter transfers. 9
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15 16

15-We also place on both sides the

letters that spell out the name of this
vehicle and then we paint the unit
shields in red. The details of the
shield are hand made with a thin
brush, using Model Color acrylics:
951, 908, and 950.
17

16-Overview of the kit, before

applying dirt.

17-Dirt and dust are created by going

from oil to acrylic paints.

effects were further intensified by air-

brushing in alternate applications of
XF-60, XF-64, and XF-2 all well diluted
and following the outlines created by
hand with the brush. Afterwards, the
features and details of the kit were pro-
filed using the airbrush kit and a mix-
ture of Tamiya’s XF-1 and XF-10. The
details on the tracks and the inside of
the turret were profiled with a couple
of washes (Via capillarity effect) on oil
paint 78 and black.
Once we allowed the oil paints to
dry up again, the edges of the kit were
slightly lighted up with Humbrol
enamel 103 applied with the dry brush
technique. Some paint chips that
revealed the aluminum planks under-
neath were also made using Tamiya
enamel X-11 (varnish will end up giv-
ing you a matt surface in the end).
Then we airbrushed Tamiya’s XF-52 on
the tracks and lower areas to create a
first statement of dirt. Afterwards we in Vietnam we employed three differ- Once we’ve enhanced the low relief
airbrushed the entire kit with an overall ent pigments from the Mig Productions areas using our airbrush kit and a
layer of mat varnish. catalogue: P024, P025 and P037. These mixture of XF-10 and XF-1. Pointy
edges and the prominent areas on the
After about 24 hours worth of dry- pigments were mixed directly on the tracks are slightly lighted up using
ing time we applied some more dust kit and those pigments were fixed in the dry brush technique using
with a paint brush. In order to obtain place using the company product cre- Humbrol enamel 103.
10
the particular orange earth tone found ated for that purpose.
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The kit is now being

dirtied using a brush COLOUR CHART
and some of Mig
Production’s color TAMIYA (acrylics)
powdered pigments. X-1 black
The first color used is XF-1 flat black
P037; this powder is
XF-2 flat white
simply placed in the
right spots using a XF-7 flat red
brush. XF-10 flat brown
XF-11 J.N. green
XF-49 khaki
18 19 XF-51 khaki drab
XF-52 flat earth
XF-55 deck tan
XF-59 desert yellow
XF-60 dark yellow
XF-61 dark green
XF-62 olive drab
XF-64 red brown

MODEL COLOR (acrylics)

818 red leather
908 carmine red
912 tan yellow
18-Now we place a few rust colored 925 blue
pigments. The product is spread with 950 black
smooth brush strokes. Excess powder
951 white
can be blown off.
967 olive green
19-The color of the canvas on the
seats is XF-51 lighted up with XF-60, 983 flat earth
and toned down for the shaded areas 987 medium grey
with XF-1. Both have been 988 khaki
airbrushed. 510 glossy varnish
20-The sights, painted with Model
Color’s 925 mixed with some 967 for TITAN (oils)
the highlights, and with 950 for the 1 titanium white
shades have been gloss varnished to 32 scarlet red
look like glass.
56 deep ultramarine blue
21-Before we applied dirt on the
ventilation grilles that cover the 67 cinnabar green
motor, we airbrushed a layer of XF-1 78 burnt umber
to create the feeling of a charred 82 ivory black
surface. 88 yellow ochre
22-Wood color on the handles of all
tools has been created with Model HUMBROL (enamels)
20
Color’s 912 and 983. 103 matt cream

21 22 TAMIYA (enamels)
X-10 gun metal
X-11 chrome silver

MARABU (varnish)
110805 flat varnish

MIG PRODUCTIONS
(pigmentos)
P024 light rust
P025 standard rust
P037 Gulf War sand

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The Gun tubes painted with Tamiya enamel X-10 have been shaded using the airbrush kit and X-1. A very light dry brush
touch with a mixture of X-10 (70%) and X-11 (30%) helped us create highlights.

The periscopes have the same acrylic mixture used on the sights of the weapons, and have also been covered with gloss
12 varnish to simulate glass.
2-14 Vulcan ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:19 Página 13

BIBLIOGRAPHY

- GREEN, Michael and SARSON,

Peter. “Armor of the Vietnam
War”, in Armor at war series
No. 7007, Concord, Hong
Kong, 1996.
- MESKO, Jim. “Ground War-
Vietnam, Vol. 2 1965-1968”,
Squadron/Signal Publications,
Carrolton, Tx, 1992.
- ZALOGA, Steven J. and LOOP,
James W. “Modern American
Armour”, Arms & Armour
Press, London, 1982.

The tracks have obtained this color with a number of paint washes on 818 and 950. The tracks have also a light dry brush
treatment with enamel X-10. Once we’ve painted the brake shoes with a mixture of 950 and 988, these received the
same dirt treatments applied elsewhere.

13
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Throughout the length of the flotation devices we’ve also created a number of horizontal scratches.

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15-19 repor.vulcan ING:Renault UE REP 10/05/13 11:27 Página 15

Pictures by: Octavio Díez Cámara

R E P O R T A G E

M163 A1 Vulcan. The

vehicle weighs 12.310
kg in combat mode
and it measures 4, 86
meters long, 2, 85
meters wide and is
about 2, 73 meters
high. The vehicle
reached a maximum
speed of 68 km per
hour and it had an
operative range of
about 483 km. The
vehicle was manned
by 4 crew people.
Left flotation panel.
Underneath we can
see the thick rubber
piece and the metallic
piece that holds the
front part, which is in
turn used as a support. 15
15-19 repor.vulcan ING:Renault UE REP 10/05/13 11:27 Página 16

Headlights, black light, View of the headlights

position light and horn are on the left side; On top
all located on the front part of these we can see the
to the right. periscopes around the
driver’s hatch. On the
left side of the picture
Details of the wiring and we can see the mooring
the protection for the system for the
headlights. collapsible panel.

On the left side of the big

porthole on the rear we can The tow cable is wound
see the access entrance. up on the right side.

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6V53 215horsepower to 2800 rpm

diesel motor, underneath the
ventilation grille. On the grille we can
see the catch for attaching the
weapon when the vehicle is in
motion.

Rear deck. Here we can see many

hooks for the attachment latches to
hold various tools.

Driver’s hatch. Up front we can see

the attachment hook for the hatch in
the open position.

Details on the left

side of the turret.
On the first term we
can see the hook for
the driver’s hatch
and behind, the
device for pulling
out the fire
extinguisher.

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Collapsible flotation panel on the front part of the

vehicle.

The radar complemented the M61 gyro-stabilized

sight which is disassembled in this unit in particular.
On the right flank of the vehicle was located the VPS
telemetric radar which gave the gunman the
approximate shooting range to the target.

In spite of the limitations of the M163, this vehicle was mass produced as a temporary tool and 3800 units were made
before production ceased. Following a number of studies to develop new fire control radar equipment, in 1976 the US
Army concluded that it needed a new anti aircraft weapon.

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View of the six 20mm rotating guns.

The gun’s maximum effective range
was of about 2200 meters in land and
1200 meters for airborne aircraft.

Air intake located on the upper left

area of the hull for cooling the inside
of the vehicle.

Detail of the guide for the

ammunition strips.

The turret revolved with the aid of an

electric motor, and the gun was
raised and lowered by the same
means. This was accomplished at 60
and 45 degrees per second.

Hinges for the front panel.

Underneath we can see the sections
of the tracks and their corresponding
rubber brake shoes.

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 By: Mario Gabás Ruiz Picture credits: Raúl Fernández Ruiz Color Profiles: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Tamiya 1/35

About two and a half years ago the only styrene kits available on a scale of
1/35 featuring the initial run of StuG. III’s were those manufactured by Dragon
kits and Italeri. I built one a number of years ago and they were all right, but a
20 few extra details were in fact necessary.
20-27 Stug ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:34 Página 21

and can therefore be adapted to any using another layer of gloss varnish,
kind of diorama. This kit also includes but this time I only applied it on the
an outstanding aluminum gun with areas occupied by decals.
projectile lines on the inside and photo Now I readied my kit to receive the
etched grilles for the air intakes. On the white camouflage paint. The kit looked
other hand, Eduard makes a specific all glossy with brand new decals,
Photo Etched sheet that is just wonder- reminding me of a toy… Well that was
ful to give this kit the amount of detail going to change soon.
necessary to satisfy the contemporary Doing a well worn camouflage was
hobbyist. going to be a little complex. It is
When working on the kit’s details I always convenient to carry out a few
was helped enormously by the StuG. III tests on some old kit before you ruin
monograph published by Acción Press. your job. The first thing I did was to
I personally recommend it not only cover the StuG completely airbrushing
because the lavish edition but also Humbrol enamel 34 throughout except
because it contains lots of period pic- on the sides of the tracks which were
tures, color profiles, uniforms and last covered in kitchen paper. I actually
but not least, a minute analysis of the painted the whole kit white, but evi-
assembly chores of the kits featured dently I did it in thin airbrushed layers
and also the different kinds of assault to avoid covering details and forming
guns made. paint puddles.
I let paint dry up for approximately
half an hour and then I took a couple
P A I N T I N G of flat tipped brushes soaked in Hum-
brol enamel thinner and tapped the
When I began this kit I was perfect- surface of the kit and dragged the
ly clear about the paintjob I wanted for remains of the white paint insisting in
it. Some time ago I saw pictures of dif- some areas. This is the crucial step of
ferent early StuG.’s with winter camou- this kind of paintjob: Your result
flage. I wanted to portray one of these depends on how long we let paint dry
with a well worn white camouflage, so up and exactly how we tap the surface
I began to work on it immediately… with our brushes.
The first thing I did was to prime I insisted on specific areas of the
the kit using Humbrol enamel 64. I did armoring to accentuate the irregularity
this to spot possible mistakes during of the finished result. As soon as I got
assembly and see how the different through this process I cleansed the
materials of the kit combine (Styrene, remains of the thinner liquid that were
resin, photo etched pieces…). As soon left on some areas of the kit and var-
as the priming dried up I applied my nished it again with gloss varnish. I did
base color mixture containing Tamiya’s this to protect the white paint remains

T hat was the state of affairs

until Tamiya got out its StuG.
III Ausf. B, a kit which pretty
much in line with the brand has a very
XF-63 with a hint of XF-2. I let the
whole thing dry up well for two days
and then applied acrylic gloss varnish
of the same brand. Gloss varnish helps
from the “dirt applications” that were
up and coming.
Finally I could customize my kit at
will. I began by replacing white paint
decent level in terms of detail and the you place decals, and also protects were paint removal was excessive. I
pieces fit together wonderfully; special- your base color mixture when the time used a thin tipped brush and did small
ly the tracks. However on the lower comes to apply the white camouflage white dots that looked like paint chips.
part of the hull, the manufacturer has on. This is how I got a realistic cracked
omitted a number of details. I guess I used the kit’s own decals in spite paint effect.
that the perfect level of detail can only of the bad reputation that Tamiya The following thing to do was the
be obtained by adapting the Dragon decals have of being way too thick paint filters. I used for the first time the
kits’ hull into the Tamiya kit, but this (because of the transparent film on winter filter set created by Sin Indus-
means a lot of work plus the money top). If you use the Micro Set and tries, which has three very light colored
necessary to purchase two kits. Micro Sol products, your decals will be highly diluted enamels. I applied each
I intended to focus on the Tamiya perfect and will not give you further one separately allowing enough drying
kit which has a movable suspension troubles. Later on I protected my decals time for each. This helped me change 21
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The vehicle’s the color tones in different areas. I was

winter finally able to see then the first color
camouflage has changes of the kit.
been given a
thorough ageing
Later on I melted a few oil paint ref-
process. White erences throughout the different sur-
enamel has been faces of the kit. This is a winter cam-
patiently ouflaged vehicle, so you have to be
removed on some careful when choosing the right colors
areas with a because white paint can wind up look-
brush soaked in
ing too dirty or yellowish. I used a
enamel thinner.
number of different earth tones 21, 1

The right
headlight has
been enhanced
with a Greif
Accessories’ lens.
The wiring has
been created
with copper
wire.

Some areas have

some “reverse”
white paint chips
where winter
camouflage is
restored with a
thin brush in the
spots where
there has been
excess removal.

22
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and 16. We all know how oil paint using oil paint 45. Afterwards the kit
should be applied: Use small amounts looked as if it had been on duty for COLOUR CHART
of it and melt it smoothly to leave the quite some time.
HUMBROL (enamels)
winter camouflage underneath Now it was time for doing a few
33 matt slate
unharmed. The good thing about melt- paint chips and scratches. For the
34 matt white
ing oil paint is the fact that if you deeper gashes I used Panzer Aces 302 64 matt light grey
chance to overdo it, you can always and for the lighter ones I mixed this
remove it and leave it to your taste. color with 301. When doing the light- TAMIYA (acrylics)
Before going on, I allowed paint to est scratches and imperfections I used X-22 clear
dry up well for a couple of days, and the same grey mixture used as the base XF-2 flat white
then profiled the kit to enhance details color for this StuG. On the deeper XF-63 German grey
gashes I did a number of rust and dirt PANZER ACES (acrylics)
trails using in some cases melted oil 301 light rust
paints or smooth acrylic lines. 302 dark rust
I was almost done painting my 304 track primer
vehicle at this stage, and I only needed 307 red tail light
to paint a few small details that give 308 green tail light
liveliness to kits such as tools, rear 310 old wood
lights, etc. I used the specific Panzer 311 new wood
Aces acrylics for this kind of items. I 315 light mud
also added some fuel spills and grease 316 dark mud
stains. Fuel stains were done with oil GUNZE SANGYO (acrylics)
paint 50 and grease stains were done H-84 mahogany
with Color pigment P034 and gloss SIN INDUSTRIES (enamels)
varnish. The last thing I did was to air- P407 winter filter set
brush a layer of Marabu matt varnish
that covered all the kit. MIR (oils)
1 titanium white
16 cobalt blue
21 sap green
45 raw humber
46 burnt humber
50 bitume
502 ABTEILUNG (oils)
Mud covering the lower areas and the 70 dark rust
tracks have been created with
powdered color pigments and plaster MIG PRODUCTIONS
mixed together with water. (pigments)
P024 light rust
P025 standard rust
P026 concrete
KITS USED P028 Europe dust
P030 beach sand
Model: P033 dark mud
- StuG. III Ausf. B Tamiya ref. P034 Russian earth
35281, 1/35. P234 rubbel dust
Photoetche: MARABU (varnish)
- StuG. III Ausf. B, Eduard ref. 110805 flat varnish
35715.
Tracks:
- Pz.Kpfw. III/IV 40cm Early
Tracks, Modelkasten ref. SK-24. M U D
Accessories:
- Notek headlights, Mig As you have surely noticed, my
Productions ref. 35130. StuG has a pretty prominent mud appli-
- 4mm Light Lenses, Greif cation on the lower areas. This is actu-
Accessories ref. GF205. ally the second time that I do a kit with
23
so much mud, and I did this because I
20-27 Stug ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:35 Página 24

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Some advice wanted to improve the results obtained the paint washes with enamels,
on how we can in my first try. A review appeared on because enamel thinner can harm the
dissimulate issue 23 of this magazine that dealt kit’s own plastic surface and some
thick decals:
Airbrush gloss
precisely on how to put mud on vehi- track sections may come off. The last
varnish on the cles and I heartily recommend it. thing I did was to apply (dry this time)
areas where I created mud by mixing the follow- the same pigments used on mi initial
decals will be ing Mig Productions’ pigments P034, mud mixture. Once the tracks were in
placed. Once P033, P028, P026 and P030 with a little place I took a soft leaded pencil and
dry, we place bit of plaster and water. Then I took an created the polished metal effects were
decals and
old brush and applied this mixture on friction occurs.
then airbrush
one or two all the lower parts of the vehicle with Last but not least I would like to
more layers of little taps of the brush tip to create the give my warmest thanks to my friend
the same right textures. I also applied this mix- Luis Fernando Solanas for all his valu-
varnish. ture around the fenders to simulate able advice on how to create the
mud splashes. When it all dried up, I snowy base where my vehicle now sits.
placed light and dark pigments on top
(not mixing them together) in order to
get different mud colors. In this phase I
also used pigment P033. This is quite a BIBLIOGRAPHY
painstaking job, but once you’ve seen
- GARCÍA GÁZQUEZ, Joaquín,
the results it makes it all worthwhile.
DE DIEGO VAQUERIZO,
Afterwards I painted the tracks with
Carlos and BERNAL
Gunze Sangyo’s H-84, and later on I
MARTÍNEZ, Andrés M. “StuG.
did a rather consistent acrylic wash
III”, in Monograph No. 12,
treatment with Panzer Aces’ 315, 316
Acción Press, Madrid, 2004.
and 304. It’s quite important not to do

The exhaust has a mat black enamel base with two rust colored pigments fixed in
place with a few drops of enamel thinner.

The small base is made out of plaster and before the product dried up I created track prints in it.
The base has been painted with dark colored pigments and acrylic paint. The snow is a Signifier
product. 25
20-27 Stug ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:35 Página 26

StuG. III Ausf. A (Sd.Kfz. 142), unidentified unit, Greece, April 1941.

StuG. III Ausf. B (Sd.Kfz. 142), StuG.Abt. 192, Heeresgruppe Mitte, U.S.S.R., December 1941.

26
20-27 Stug ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:35 Página 27

StuG. III Ausf. E (Sd.Kfz. 142), unidentified unit, Crimea, U.S.S.R., May 1944.

StuG. III Ausf. D (Sd.Kfz. 142), unidentified unit, central Germany, May 1945.

StuG. III Ausf. D (Sd.Kfz. 142), unidentified unit, central Germany, May 1945. 27
 By: Pere Pla Maestro Pictures by the author and Fernando Cañellas Planchuelo

Sovereign 2000 1/35

Armored vehicles on wheels can be traced as far back as WWI, just like
tanks. The basic characteristics of an armored vehicle are three: Firepower,
armoring and mobility. Firepower was not the main feature on an armored
automobile and sometimes armoring wasn’t very powerful because the
vehicle could become too heavy as a result. Mobility was therefore the
main consideration when assigning tasks to these vehicles.
28
28-34 Humber ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:41 Página 29

red Car regiments of the different units

which already had Rolls Royce and Mar-
mon Herrington units in service. The
vehicle accomplished its assigned mis-
sions and made itself at home in the des-
sert war. The only setback was that its
motor rarely survived past 5000 km.

A S S E M B L Y
The kit we’re dealing with is the Hum-
ber Mk. I from the Sovereign 2000 brand.
This is a resin and soft metal kit with a
fair piece distribution and a careful mol-
ding process. The main body of the vehi-
cle has been molded in a single piece,
and it barely has any molding lines or air
bubbles. The remaining resin pieces are
well modeled and hardly need cleansing.
The metal pieces are the shovel, mooring
rings and the Besa gun which could per-

S
oon these vehicles became The resin kit includes some soft metal haps be the black spot on the kit, becau-
reconnaissance and transmission pieces. It has the barest amount of se its way too soft and I had a hard time
units. Speed was a very impor- pieces, helping you save a lot of time. putting it in place. This is in fact a revi-
tant factor, and a good mechanical struc- The kit has a splendid detail level and sed version of an older kit from the same
ture was also crucial while on duty in the does not need significant brand with soft metal fenders and a les-
front. improvements or hyper detailing ser overall quality. You can still find today
When WWII began, the United King- sessions. some of the old versions in some stores,
dom did not have very good armored
vehicles and many units were already
obsolete and could not fight in the war
that Germany started.
The “Humber Armoured car” was a
vehicle built on the frame and following
the blueprints of the “Guy Armoured
Car” from 1939. Production began in
1940 with the Mark I model (the vehicle
we’re dealing with in this review) of
which were built 500 units who saw
combat for the first time in 1941. This
armored vehicle held a crew of three
men, weighing about 6.85 tons and rea-
ching a maximum speed of about 72
km/hour on a paved road. The vehicle
was equipped with a 12mm Besa machi-
ne gun as the principal weapon, and a

KITS USED
Model:
- Humber Mk. I “Armoured car”,
Sovereign 2000 ref. S2KV014,
1/35 scale. coaxial 7.92mm Besa machine gun as a so if you are still interested in purchasing
Figure: secondary weapon. this vehicle, make sure that it’s the new
- British Desert Tanker 1, The first Humber vehicles arrived in one.
Friendship Models ref. 3501. North Africa in September 1941, and The kit does not require special
29
began to be distributed between Armo- assembly cares, and details can hardly be
28-34 Humber ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:42 Página 30

The Model kit is entirely covered

with a couple of layers of Tamiya’s
XF-57. Highlights are created by
adding white for the upper areas and
the prominent features of the vehicle.
All this work is done using our
airbrush kit.

Once we’ve placed the transfers and

done a couple of hand brushed filters
with Humbrol enamels, we take a
No. 1 brush and use a few Model
Color acrylic references to do a few
paint chips and scratches.

COLOUR CHART
TAMIYA (acrylics)
XF-2 flat white
XF-57 buff
HUMBROL (enamels)
35 clear poly
53 gunmetal
81 matt pale yellow
82 matt orange lining
MODEL COLOR (acrylics)
822 Germ. cam. black brown
872 chocolate brown
928 light flesh
950 black
951 white
976 buff
PANZER ACES (acrylics)
341 flesh base
342 highlight flesh
343 shadows flesh
added because it is essentially correct. As P A I N T I N G 502 ABTEILUNG (oils)
in all resin kits, you should put special 15 brown shadow
care when gluing its pieces together. I I wanted from day one to place the kit 35 buff
decided to glue the largest pieces using in an African setting, but I wasn’t so sure 70 dark rust
epoxy putty and the smallest pieces about the paintjob. The most usual 80 wash brown
using cyanocrylate glue. I glued the whe- option was color No. 61 B.S. 381-1930 93 basic earth
els before painting the vehicle; this Light Stone. 110 black
means trouble for later on, but I wanted I reproduced this color by airbrus-
hing Tamiya’s XF-57 toned down with MIG PRODUCTIONS
to make sure that these were well glued.
XF-2 for the upper areas. Afterwards I (pigments)
In a few hours I had my vehicle ready for
painted the tires with a brush and P022 ashes white
painting.
Model Color acrylic 950. Then I used P037 Gulf War sand
30 transfers for putting the numerals on P234 rubbel dust
28-34 Humber ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:42 Página 31

chips in several painting sessions, cove-

ring step by step the areas prone to fric-
tion and resting between each paint ses-
sion. This helps me no to get anxious and
end up with a kit full of incongruous paint
chips. Always remember that you should
do a big paint chip with small ones
around it, and avoid doing them all in the
same pattern.
On the next step I enhanced a number
of small details with large paint washes
with oil paint 15. I allowed these to dry
for a couple of days and then got busy
doing some paint wear effects created by
extreme weather conditions. I used three
colors for this purpose: a light one a
medium tone and a dark tone (35, 93 and
80). I like to apply oil paints one by one.
First I wet the painting area using Mig Pro-
ductions’ enamel thinner and then I apply
oil trails on the vertical surfaces and oil
clouds on the horizontal ones.
The low relief areas are enhanced with a wash with oil paint 15.
Afterwards I applied some dust with
Mig productions’ color powder pigments.
The effects of wear on the paintjob, dirt and dust accumulations on odd corners The trouble with dirt on such a light
are created using three oil paint references ranging from light to dark smeared
colored vehicle is that there’s hardly any
on the kit using enamel thinner.
contrast between dust and the camoufla-
ge paint itself. That is why I had to add
some pigment P022 to pigment P037. I
also used a darker pigment (P234) to
enhance certain areas.
In spite of everything, I still wasn’t
satisfied with the dust effects achieved on
the vehicle and I still thought that the kit
looked pretty uninteresting. That’s why I
decided to apply several techniques for
creating dirt on the areas of the vehicle
that should have greater wear. On the
lower areas I created some pigment mud
splashes mixed with thinner. Then I crea-
ted a number of stains on the armoring
using oil and acrylic paint. I also recreated
dirt around the hatches usually created by
the hands of the passing crew. I used for
this purpose a well diluted solution with
Model Color acrylic 822 applied in several
layers. Those areas with the greatest
amount of scratches I used the dry brush
technique using the same colors used for
the paint chips and also used graphite
powder (pencil lead) to convey metal
worn to a polish. I also recreated some
the turret but decided against putting obtained I did a few paint chips with rust using acrylic and oil paints and added
unit marks. Model Color acrylics. I used 976 for the oil and fuel stains using oil paint 110 and
Base color for this vehicle is in fact very chips lighter than the kit’s base color in 15 mixed with gloss varnish.
light and looks rather uninteresting, so I order to convey those paint chips which When finished I placed my armored
applied a number of paint filters using only affect the surface of the vehicle’s vehicle on a small base and accompanied
Humbrol enamels 81 and 82. paintjob. Later on I did deeper chips using it with a figure manufactured by the Bri-
Once I was satisfied with the results 822 and 950. I like to do a vehicle’s paint 31
tish company Friendship Models.
28-34 Humber ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:42 Página 32

Final dust effects are done using powdered color pigments. The edges of the hatches have been darkened with acrylic
washes that recreate the hand prints of the crew.

32
28-34 Humber ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:42 Página 33

Base color for the uniform is 976 highlighted with 928 and The figure’s skin tone has been painted using the three
given shadows with 872. Panzer Aces specific paint references. The final highlights
have some white paint in them.

Rust has been conveyed in different areas using oil paint 70 diluted on enamel thinner.
The lower areas have been literally splashed with powdered pigments held together with enamel thinner. This
effect closely resembles the looks of clustered stones mud and sand.

33
28-34 Humber ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:42 Página 34

The weapons
have a black
colored base
color with a
dry brush
treatment
with Humbrol
enamel 53.

Any vehicle
certainly
improves if it
is well
presented in a
base and is
accompanied
by a good
figure.

34
62 AfrikaKorpsING_62 ES Suscrip.qxd 21/04/13 18:22 Página 62

New Monographic, Now On Sale!

19€
New monographic dedicated to the Afrika Korps. 88 pages in which you can find the latest
techniques employed by the authors showed step by step. A perfect reference to learn how to paint
those effects produced in desert conditions. Techniques that will inspire you to build your desert
models.

Accion press
C/Ezequiel Solana, 16 bajo, 28017 Madrid, Spain
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Historex Agents
Wellington House, 157 Snargate Street, Dover, Kent CT17 9BZ
www.historexagents.com
 By: José Manuel Pérez Flores Picture credits: Jordi Escarré González

Dragon 1/35

In the summer of 1941, while operation “Barbarossa” was being carried out,
the first important city of the USSR taken by the infantrymen of the Waffen
SS was Cherson. This city was defended by infantry belonging to the Soviet
marines, that fought a street by street fight against the SS-Div. “LSSAH”.
After three days of ferocious street fights with numerous casualties from both
contenders, the “Leibstandarte” took the city on August the 20th.

I
created this small vignette inspi- figures included on the kit. I wanted to because in the camouflage pullovers
red on a sequence of period pic- portray an action where the leader is from the Waffen SS you couldn’t see the
tures I found on the Internet. watching for enemy moves and with his typical sowing lines on the sleeves
Dragon has a styrene reference featuring left hand he is ready to give the assis- found on regular jackets. I also traded all
a flamethrower team. Flamethrower tant indications to cover up the flameth- the figures’ heads for Hornet references
teams had a team leader, the flamethro- rower operator. which are much better sculpted.
wer operator and one or two assistants. I filled the parting lines between the On the M 35 flamethrower operator I
36 I decided to use only three of the four figure’s arms and torsos with putty, improved and put some detail on the
36-41 Flammer ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:47 Página 37

leather straps. I replaced the support methrower tube was replaced by telep- led the wristbands on the pullover,
and fastenings of the two fuel reservoirs hone wire and the thin one coming because the figure has been erroneously
and used Evergreen rods and heat stret- from the small reservoir I traded for a sculpted with buttons from a “Heer”
ched plastic, while also adding the lever heat stretched piece I made myself. piece of clothing, and the Waffen SS
for opening the mouth piece. I hollowed I put on the team leader those “D” only had elastic wrist bands. I also
one end of the flamethrower tube and shaped fastenings on the leather straps modified the pose on both of the figu-
replaced the connection between the in the back, and did it with copper wire re’s arms to suit them to the scene I
tubes: The thick one going from the fla- and thin Plasticard sheet. I also remode- wanted to portray, and placed a hand
grenade on the figure’s belt, an MP 40
sub machine gun, ammunition holsters
and a Tamiya shovel.

The frame on the window has been

made with balsa wood sticks. The
end of the fallen beam has three
pieces of thin wire glued that
simulate the concrete structure.
Priming has been created with putty
diluted on industrial acetone helping
paint adhere better.

Both walls and the fallen debris are

hand painted with 985, 825 and 956.
Everything has been given paint
veils using both acrylic and oil
paints. An interesting detail to
point out, are the remains of
floor tiles in the debris piles,
which can be easily identified
because of the fine hand
painted design.

37
36-41 Flammer ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:47 Página 38

I placed some dry mud on the assis- card sheet and cutting a square shape of
tant’s helmet using well diluted putty the same material I recreated a buckle.
(diluted in acetone), adapted the car-
tridges to the Kar 98k soviet submachi- P A I N T I N G
ne gun, eliminated the fastenings for a
harness that simply weren’t on the back I wanted to portray on this diorama
of the figure, and placed a PPSH Soviet three different kinds of camouflage on
submachine gun with its matching car- the “Tarnjacken” or Waffen SS pullovers
tridge holder. I also elongated the strap to give each figure a different look. I
holding the gas mask using thin Plasti- used for this purpose the Panzer Aces

The sow lines on the

pullovers, the bootlaces and
the elastic straps have been
The flamethrower has been painted carefully outlined with 950.
with a mixture of 950 and 325,
camouflage spots have been Pants on both figures have
airbrushed using low air pressure been painted using different
with color 882 highly diluted in shades of “Feldgrau”. The
water. boots (painted 950) have
been progressively
KITS USED highlighted with small
amounts of 983.
Figures:
- Sturmpioniere (Eastern Front 1942), It was rather common for
Dragon ref. 6146, 1/35 scale. soldiers to have a helmet
cover with a different
Accessories: camouflage scheme to the
- Heads, Hornet refs. HGH 03 and one worn on the pullover. In
HGH 04. this case, the helmet cover
- German Infantry Equipment B,
Tamiya ref. 35205. is a “Platanenmuster”
- Russian Army Assault Infantry, scheme, whereas the
Tamiya ref. 35207. pullover has a
“Palmenmuster” scheme.

38
36-41 Flammer ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:47 Página 39

COLOUR CHART

PANZER ACES (acrylics)

325 Russian tankcrew I
326 Russian tankcrew I
328 Japanese tankcrew
330 highlight Russian tankcrew II
332 highlight Japanese tankcrew
334 German tankcrew I (Feldgrau)
335 German tankcrew I (Feldgrau)
338 Highlight german I (Feldgrau)
339 Highlight german II (Feldgrau)
MODEL COLOR (acrylics)
822 Germ. cam. black brown
823 Luftwaffe cam. green
825 Germ. cam. pale brown
826 Germ. cam. medium brown
874 USA-tan earth
882 mieddlestone
891 inermediate green
896 Germ. cam. extr. dk. green The MP 40 has been primed black, The bread bag has been painted with
922 USA uniform and later on it has been given a metal 328 highlighted with 332. The cover
950 black look with a mixture of model air for the canteen (painted 983) has
955 flat flesh acrylics 63 and 65 applied with the been highlighted with 955, and given
956 clear orange dry brush technique before gluing it shadows with 950.
to the figure.
979 Germ. cam. dark green
983 flat earth
985 hull red
987 medium grey
MODEL AIR (acrylics)
63 silver
65 steel
MARABU (varnish)
110805 flat varnish
113705 barniz satinado (acrílico)
TITAN (oils)
1 titanium white
78 burnt humber
82 ivory black
88 yellow ochre

color range, tap water for diluting these The “Tarnjacken” did not have
and two paint brushes (a No. 1 and a sowing lines between the arms and
No. 2). torso. This means that you have to
The soldier with the flamethrower cover these with putty, and then
sand the joining lines between these
has a “Palmenmuster” (palm tree)
pieces and the figure.
camouflage pullover made between
The PPSH cover for the ammunition
1940 and 1942. My base mixture for
loader has been painted with colors
this contained 985 and 955, a mixture 326 and 330.
that was progressively lighted up with
All figures were mat varnished, and
increasing amounts of the second color
then were dirtied using pastel powder
reference. Afterwards I painted the gre- before being placed in the base.
en mid-tones using a mixture of colors
334 and 979 and for the darker greens I were done in several sessions by appl-
used 896. For the figure’s pants I used a ying washes with 950.
mixture of 334 and 335, and used 338 The leader of the team has a “Plata-
and 339 for the highlights. Shadows nenmuster” (banana) pullover manufac- 39
36-41 Flammer ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:47 Página 40

tured from 1940 to 1944 based on the diluted in the brand’s own thinner. I I painted both the walls and debris
bark of these trees. I painted this item of also applied with a brush some acrylic with a brush and 985, highlighting it
clothing with a couple of layers of 825. satin varnish of the same brand on the with 825 and 956 applied with the dry
Then I added 955 and did a number of leather straps. brush technique. I recreated concrete
highlights. Next I got busy with the A few hours later when varnish was between the bricks using 987, and did a
camouflage spots, using for the first pretty much dry, I used some pastel number of paint veils throughout the
ones 891, 823 for the next ones, and powder and applied it with a brush in base using acrylic paints in different
822 for the darkest ones. I used 334 on order to enhance dirt effects on the uni- shades of earth colors, and concluded
the pants of this figure highlighted first forms. the painting process with oil paint was-
and then given shadows with 338 and hes on 82, 78, 88 and 1 well diluted in
950 respectively. turpentine.
The soldier with the Russian subma- B A S E Sincere thanks to my friend Jordi
chine gun also has a “Platanenmuster” Escarré for his help and support.
camouflage pullover, but we’re dealing The base portrays a ruined landscape
here with a variation produced from in Cherson. I made a plaster copy of the
1936/37 to 1944. Base color for this original sculpt made by Carlos de Diego
pullover contains a mixture of 825 with created for the now defunct Alhambra
a little 338 highlighted with increasing Models brand. We’re basically dealing BIBLIOGRAPHY
amounts of the last reference. Then I here with two walls that recreate the
painted camouflage spots with 922 end of an alley, with a ground full of - STEVEN, Andrew and AMODIO,
mixed with 338 and added edges debris. I chose to portray the exact Peter. “Waffen-SS Uniformes et
around these using 979 mixed also with opposite: the corner of a street. I did Equipements”, in Europa Militaria
338. I used 822 for the darkest camou- this by cutting the left wall and using a No. 6, Histoire & Collections,
flage spots. small poker I created a number of bullet Paris, 1990.
Once I was done painting the figu- holes and other impacts on the area - TERUI, Yoshihiro & B.S.K.
res, I did a number of paint veils using were both walls used to fit together. I “Uniforms of the SS 1938-1945”,
874, 983 and 826 dirtying certain parts obviously had to make a larger debris Dai Nippon Kaiga Co. Japan, 1998.
of the uniforms such as knees and area, using for this purpose a piece of - BERNAGE, Georges and
pullover sleeves in order to the left wall piece, pieces of WALTHER, Herbert “Leibstandarte
achieve the effect of soldiers real bricks, small peb- SS. “La garde personelle d’Adolf
fighting in debris filled are- bles and small pieces Hitler au combat”, in Album
as. When I did this I var- of wood that simula- Historique, Editions Heimdal,
nished my figures airbrus- te fallen beams. France, 1991.
hing Marabu mat varnish

Inside the debris you can see glued a few shells and broken glass. The shells are made using thin tin wire and glass is
recreated with acetate sheet (0.13mm thick). The light layer of dirt has been placed with a brush using smashed
40
pastel chalk.
36-41 Flammer ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:47 Página 41

This soldier wearing small boots has a crew M43 pair

of pants. The item pictured is manufactured with
Italian cloth. Pants are adjusted to the ankles with
strips of cloth; he also has gaiters adjustable with
leather straps. He is armed with a 7.92mm Mauser
Karabiner 98K gun, and on his neck hangs an
ammunition strap for the MG 42.

First “Tarnjacke” model with an “Eichen Laubmuster”

(oak tree leaf) camouflage scheme. This item of
clothing was usually reversible, with five color stamped
motifs in each side. On one side we could see green
spring-summer colors and on the other side (visible in
this picture) earth and brown tones for fall and winter.
41
 By: Cristóbal Vergara Durán Pictures by the author and Basilio Tante Díaz Color profiles: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo

Trumpeter 1/35

The KV heavy armored vehicle was vital for controlling and ultimately
subjugate the numerous and well trained Wehrmacht armored units during the
first years of the “Great Patriotic War”. At the beginning of the conflict
numerous units were lost on the battlefield, because of its hasty development
42
and the dated fighting techniques used by the Red Army.
42-50 KV-1 ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:51 Página 43

These Aber
lubricating oil cans
are excellent, and I
placed on its sides
handles made with
copper wire and
Evergreen rods and
strips.

The cover where the

saw is kept has been
made with thin
Plasticard sheet.

The big storage

boxes are good
reproduced in the
Trumpeter kit,
regardless you have
to detail the opening
handles.

KITS USED

D
D
uring the so called “Winter the F-32 with a greater length, sturdier
War”, the conflict against Fin- build, cheaper to build and with much Model:
land that took place between more precision. These units were called - Russian KV-1 (Model 1941)/KV
1939 and 1940, three heavy armored vehi- KV-1 Mod. 1940. “Small turret”, Trumpeter ref.
cle prototypes were tested: the T-100, the Until June 1941, a few weeks before 356, 1/75 scale.
SMK with several turrets and the KV with “Barbarossa” operation began, 370 units
just one. The first two vehicles were loa- of the KV-1 were delivered of which 264 Photo etched sheets:
ded with shortcomings, and the last one units were the 1940 model. - Grilles for KVI & KVII, Aber ref.
fared a little better and as a consequence Starting August 1941 and because G16.
development and production were finally Leningrad was cut from the rest of the - Soviet Heavy Tank KV-1 Vol. 6
commanded. country, production for this vehicle was Box-type lubricant tanks, Aber
Production began in the Kirov factory moved to the 78th Ch TZ factory in Chelia- ref. 35196.
in Leningrad, where two different models binsk close to the Ural mountain range.
were assembled: The KV with a large The F-32 gun was gradually changed for Gun:
turret and a short range M-10 152mm gun the powerful F-34, which also was the prin- - 76.2mm F-32, J. Rubio ref. SK-7.
(KV-2) and the KV with a small turret cipal weapon in the well known T-34/76.
with an L-11 76.2mm gun (KV-1). This In September 1941 production for the Accessories:
initial production run was assigned the KV finally ceased in Leningrad, but after - German Tank Periscopes WWII,
year in course 1939. After about a year of having successfully delivered 885 units of Royal Model ref. 248.
the KV-1 and the KV-2. 43
manufacture, the L-11 was substituted for
42-50 KV-1 ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:51 Página 44

The hold for

the tow cable
has a
reinforcement
strip that can
be easily made
with styrene
plastic.

Before placing
the photo
etched
ventilation
grilles, I had to open up the holes that
the grilles cover up. I did it with a
number of 1mm drills following the
outlines of the grille’s frame, and
then I cut the holes with an X-Acto
knife. The handles on the
roof of the turret
The rear grille and the protection for were made with
the hole with four reinforcements are telephone wire, the
Aber photo etched pieces. These are welding lines with
glued with cyanocrylate type glue. putty and the
stoppers for the
hatch with plastic
strips.

The cables for the

headlight and the
horn have been
made with thin
copper wire. The
tube that protects
the cable is a
curved (using heat)
Evergreen rod.

note of is the ventilation grilles covering I replaced all periscopes for resin
A S S E M B L Y the motor which should be replaced for ones manufactured by Royal Model. I
the corresponding photo etched pieces. painted them all before gluing them in
The Trumpeter kit has very high qua- There are some minor details that can place, because these periscopes are
lity standards: Good finish, lots of be improved upon, but these are only almost hidden and would be very diffi-
details, and to cap it off a fair price. This noteworthy for the hobbyist with a keen cult to paint in place. The colors used
kit is one of the cheapest ones in the eye for extreme detail (Perhaps I should were a grayish green and a mixture of
market and has a generous size. This include myself in this category). The green and yellow (with greater amounts
Chinese kit has very interesting features pieces in question are the periscopes, of yellow) for the glass piece, because
like hollow exhausts; the glass piece the gun and the tracks which can be this was the color of glass on the peris-
from the headlight is made of transpa- substituted for resin ones, an aluminum copes found in Soviet armored vehicles.
rent plastic, and has a copper tow cable. gun and tracks made in separate sec- I used to use a bluish green tone that
Trumpeter also currently manufactures tions or links. was actually mistaken.
all versions of the KV-1. I’ve only found I began to assemble my kit by the Later on I replaced the three grilles
one mistake. On the right side of the hull, correcting the place for the last covering the motor for Photo etched pie-
wheels the last wheel (there’s six) is too wheel on the right side. Very carefully I ces. I also replaced the rear plank with
far back. As a matter of fact it gets into took a knife and cut the details around its hooks for the Aber product which is
the way of the main wheel but does not the position hole of the axis of the trou- exquisitely made. I also placed optional
interfere with it. I have checked the blesome wheel, and moved it 1,5mm photo etched pieces (optional because
position of this wheel in many pictures forward close to the limits of the wheel not many KV’s had them): The rectan-
of the real vehicle and have concluded before the last one. I obviously had to gular motor lubricating oil tin deposits
that the wheel and its axis must be pla- drill a new hole for the axis of the whe- on top of the right fender.
ced farther up front a distance of appro- el. It’s better to see the pictures and I also made thinner (half as thin) the
44 ximately 1.5mm. Another detail I took you’ll know what I mean. triangular supports that hold the fen-
42-50 KV-1 ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:51 Página 45

On the right side of the vehicle the position of the last wheel has been modified, moving it forward about 1.5mm.

This Trumpeter kit is magnificent: All pieces fit together well, a high level of detail and a very competitive price.

ders. I did this with sandpaper (500gr) replaced the gun for an aluminum refe- Modelkasten styrene tracks which are
and water. I hollowed the ends of the rence manufactured by J. Rubio (there is excellently made by separate links.
machine guns with an Nº 11 brand new a reference available from the manufac- However good these links are, they have
X-Acto knife and a 0,3mm drill. I also turer which includes the aluminum gun circular mold ejector holes which need
added the cables of the horn and the and the Aber photo etched grilles). to be puttied and sanded.
headlight using thin copper wire, and I finished the job by placing the 45
42-50 KV-1 ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:52 Página 46

P A I N T I N G COLOUR CHART
There’s a three color camouflage HUMBROL (enamels) VAN GOGH (oils)
scheme used by the 220th Armored Bri- 11 silver 227 yellow ochre
gade in the Leningrad front during the 21 black 403 Van Dyck brown
spring of 1942 that I felt a lot like doing, 29 matt dark earth 411 burnt Sienna
because it strays from the typical Rus- 33 matt black
MIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments)
sian green scheme with numerals or slo- 53 sunset red
P025 standard rust
gans in white. 56 bronze
P033 dark mud
First I covered the periscopes with 60 matt scarlet
P034 Russian earth
masking tape and then painted the 103 matt cream
P234 rubbel dust
whole kit with a layer of Humbrol’s 117. 116 matt US dark green
I painted the camouflage schemes by 117 matt US light green FACTIS (watercolor)
hand and without masking. I began 151 interior light green 20 lemon yellow
with the sand color, which I obtained by 186 brown 30 red
mixing White Ensign’s ACS15 and 80 black
WHITE ENSIGN (enamels)
Humbrol’s 103. I obtained the brown
ACS15 pale brown LETRASET (ink
tone using 70% 186 and 30% 29, both
680 sepia
Humbrol references. A few days later I SIN INDUSTRIES (enamels)
900 black
did a number of general paint washes P243 German filter set
with brown tones included in the Ger- MARABU (varnihs)
TAMIYA (acylics)
man filter set created by Sin Industries. 110605 clear
X-18 semi gloss black
Then I applied a very light layer of each 110805 matt varnish
X-19 smoke
of the camouflage colors using the dry
brush technique. These colors were ligh-
ted up with 151, 103 and ACS15 respec-
tively. There are other pieces painted in Now it was time to apply some oil Applying some Mig powdered color
different Humbrol enamels such as the paints using Talens’ White Spirit and pigments was the next thing to do. I
rubber return rods on the tracks painted simulate dust and dirt trails using colors used P234 as my base pigment, distribu-
with 33, the horn painted with 21, and 411, 227 and 403. Then I varnished it all ting it mainly on the track area and also
the machine guns painted 53 with 21. using Marabu mat varnish to get rid of using White Spirit to fix it in place. I
some unwanted gloss. put a new layer of pigment P033 on top

The covers for the lubricating oil deposits were stained using well diluted enamels 21 and 60.
46
42-50 KV-1 ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:52 Página 47

The camouflage spots of the vehicle have been entirely made by hand using no masking whatsoever.

of the previous pigment reference, but Then, using well diluted Tamiya’s X- number of paint washes with rust colors
only on the inner areas of the pigment 19 I created some fuel leakages where obtained by mixing Factis tempera paints
clusters and on top of that I applied the piston rods turn and on the center of 20, 30 and 80. When the washes were
P034 creating a gradation. Pigment clus- the wheels. The glossy color of grease done I used again the dry brush techni-
ters then looked light around the edges should stand out against mat dirt. que and went over the prominent featu-
and darker on the center crating a semi In the meantime I painted the links res and lines of the tracks using Hum-
dry mud effect. On the upper areas of using an enamel mixture containing brol enamel 56. I did the same treatment
the vehicle I tried to lighten up the effect Humbrol’s 33 and 53, and later on on the friction areas of the wheels,
by placing small amounts of pigment applied only the last color using the dry because these were actually made of
only on the nooks and corners. brush technique. Afterwards I did a metal.

The exhausts were painted with a rusty color obtained by mixing Factis temperas 30, 20 and 80. Then I applied Powder
color pigment P025 and fixed it in place using White Spirit. On the end of the exhausts I did a convincing charred look
47
using Letraset tints 680 and 900.
42-50 KV-1 ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:52 Página 48

The inside of the headlight was

painted with enamel 11 and once dry
I did a wash using acrylic X-18 to
help the light bulb stand out. I fixed
the headlight glass piece using white
carpenter’s glue, and then I dirtied
the glass using alcohol diluted
pigment P234.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
- VOLLER, Jochen. “KV-1 Soviet
Heavy Tank of WWII-Early
Variants”, in The Tankograd
publishing. Soviet Special, Trial
& Technik, Germany, 2001.
- KOLOMIETS, Maskin. “KW Vol.
1 1939-1941”, in Militaria No.
163, Wydawnictwo Militaria,
Warsaw, Poland, 2002.
- SCHEIBERT, Horst. Stalins
Giganten “KW-1 und KW-2” in
Waffen-Arsenal No. 41, Podzun-
Pallas-Verlag, Friedberg,
Germany, 1978.
- TROJCA, Waldemar. “KW-1.
KW-2 Foto Album”, in Trojca
No. 13, Model Hobby,
Katowice, Poland, 2003.
- KOLOMIETS, Maskin.
“Camouflage of the tanks of the
Red Army 1930-1945”, in
Armada Vertical, Exprint
Publications, Moscow, Russia,
2000.

48
42-50 KV-1 ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:53 Página 49

KV-1 (mod. 1940), 106th Independent Armored Battalion, Leningrad Front, USSR. September 1941.

KV-1 (mod. 1940), 124th Armored Brigade, Leningrad Front, USSR. October 1941.

49
KV-1 (mod. 1940), 51st Independent Armored Batallion, Leningrad Front, USSR. March 1942.
 Assembled by: Francisco José Pinos Cabrera and Joaquín García Gázquez Painted by: Joaquín García Gázquez
Pictures by the author
Gum Ka 1/35

The first Japanese armored vehicle was the type 87 “Chi-I”, this vehicle was
considered too heavy, so a vehicle weighing about 10 tons was commanded,
and in 1932 they came out with the Type 89 “Chi-Ro”, a vehicle manufactured
52 by Mitsubishi until 1942.
52-61 Type ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:58 Página 53

In order to avoid breaking large and medium sized pieces; these are cemented
together using two components glue, which stands well weight and vibrations.
Smaller pieces are glued with cyanoacrylate type glue.

In some areas I had to remove rivets with an X-Acto knife in order to be able to
putty and sand faulty joints. These are later on glued back in place with
cyanoacrylate glue.

T
he design for this vehicle was
fairly conventional, and was
heavily influenced by the British
Mark C with armored planks joined
together with rivets. It was equipped
with an armed turret with a 57mm Type
90 gun, and three 6.5mm Type 91
machine guns as secondary weapons.
The machines guns were placed as In the juncture between the fenders and the hull, thin plasticard sheet is
follows: One coaxial with the main gun, detailed with rivets taken from an old kit.
another one in the rear of the turret, and 53
52-61 Type ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:58 Página 54

The skid plank used for crossing holes

in the back was tested until the right
place was found and then it was
centered and glued. Placing rivets can
be quite trying, but the result is well
worth it.

KITS USED
Model:
- Type 89 “Chi-Ro Otsu”, Gum Ka
ref. V03, 1/35 scale.
Figures:
- Japanese Tank Crew, Summer
Dress, Warriors ref. 35260.
- Wading German Soldiers,
Verlinden Productions ref. 1531
with a Hornet head ref. HH07.

the remaining one on the front part of

the vehicle.
Along with the development in 1934
of the air cooled Mitsubishi A6120VD
diesel motor with a power of about 120
The tools that come in the box are
discarded because of their low
quality. Newly made tools (using
Evergreen rods and leftover pieces
from other kits) are used.

The front area is further detailed with

rivets, thin copper wire and photo
etched pieces included in the kit. The
pieces made of lead are very well
molded and barely need any work
before you glue them.

hp, trustworthy and with an easy main-

tenance, the Type 89 improved conside-
rably. Other minor modifications such
as the improvement of the captain’s
dome and the relocation of the frontal
machine gun, which was now placed in
the left side (used to be in the right
side). The units that were manufactured
with these modifications were named
“Otsu”, and the old ones were named
“Ko”.

THE KIT
The only kit available to my knowled-
ge of the Type 89 “Chi-Ro Otsu” is
manufactured by the Japanese brand
Gum Ka. It is a resin kit, with photo
etched pieces, soft metal and tin pieces.
54
The set includes a set of tracks and styre-
52-61 Type ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:58 Página 55

Base color used is a 50% ves of the hull, because the resin material
mixture of Tamiya was slightly malformed and it did not fit
acrylics XF-49 and XF-59 together properly. I was therefore forced
airbrushed in several thin to apply putty and sand away the joints,
layers until the kit was
forcing me to rebuild a few rivets and pie-
completely covered.
Camouflage spots are ces on the rear of the vehicle.
hand painted using I painted this vehicle with all the
Humbrol enamels 29 and usual painting techniques. I’ve always
75 and the yellow band believed that a picture is better than a
around is done with thousand words, so I pretty much cover
Humbrol enamel 93. the painting process in the captions
beneath the pictures. The painting pro-
cess is therefore explained step by step in
the pictures and I hope that this will cla-
rify all questions.

ne wheels ver y similar to the ones

Modelkasten manufactures. This kit also
includes a very complete decal sheet and
a very clear instruction sheet.
Even if this kit is a wonderful collec-
tor’s showpiece, I would not recommend
it to beginner hobbyists, because its
assembly is pretty complex.
This kit was an order taken in haste,
and had to be delivered in relatively short
notice. I was however going to be helped
by my friend Francisco José Pinos, but
after assembling the tracks and all its
gear (a very demanding job) my friend
called it quits and we agreed that I would
finish the rest of the kit.
The most complex part of the
assembly was putting together both hal-

After placing decals as usual using

the Micro Set and Micro Sol
products to ensure a perfect fit
and adherence, the kit’s features
are enhanced by airbrushing a
subtle shade. The shading mixture
contains Tamiya’s XF-1 and XF-10
(diluted 10%), these colors help
create the first traces of dirt.

The results obtained so far are

protected from the ageing
techniques to come with an
airbrushed layer of Micro satin
varnish. This varnish will also give
the kit a metallic satin finish.
55
52-61 Type ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:59 Página 56

Initial dirt statement. Three Humbrol

enamel paint filters are applied: 60,
80 and 26. It is highly recommended
to allow a drying time of about two
hours between layers.

A highly diluted layer of Humbrol

enamel 93 is used to create a general
layer of dust.

After a drying time of about 15 to 20

minutes, Humbrol enamel 93 is
partially removed with a brush
soaked in Humbrol enamel thinner.
This way the kit will acquire a dirty
appearance with toned down colors.
We don’t have to worry about this
because we’re just starting with the
ageing process.

COLOUR CHART
(Type 89 “Chi-Ro Otsu”)

TAMIYA (acrylics)
XF-1 flat black
XF-10 flat brown
XF-49 khaki
XF-59 desert yellow

HUMBROL (enamels)
11 silver
26 matt khaki
29 matt dark earth
60 matt scarlet
75 matt bronze green
80 matt grass green
93 matt desert yellow

MICROSCALE (acrylics)
6404 micro gloss
6405 micro satin

TITAN (oils)
69 sap green
74 raw umber
80 bitumen
84 lamp black
86 light yellow ochre
92 yellow reddish ochre
94 gold ochre transparent

502 ABTEILUNG (oils)

40 faded green
50 olive green

MIG PRODUCTIONS
(pigments)
P030 beach sand
P031 Viertnam earth
56
52-61 Type ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:59 Página 57

It’s important to do some detail profiling

on all features using a dark color. This will
give us depth on all features, grilles etc.
The mixture used contains 84 and 74.

Sand and mud clusters are conveyed with

With small amounts of oil paint we create different color tones. The powdered pigments; these are placed on
dirtiest areas have a concentration of earth tones (see color chart) and 74, the kit with a brush and are fixed with a
and those areas which are a little cleaner have 86 and three shades of few drops of diluted oil paint Pink
green. Oil paint is smeared using enamel thinner. transparent earth.

Oil stains, a common

feature on armored
vehicles, are
conveyed using oil
paint 80. If these are
applied too diluted,
stains will end up
looking like dried up
and if these are
undiluted they will
look fresh and wet.

In this stage we can

do all the necessary
touch ups: Additional
grease stains, paint
scratches, paint chips
and additional dirt
clusters.
52-61 Type ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:59 Página 58

Once we’ve
painted the
tracks with
enamel 29,
polished
worn areas
are
conveyed
with enamel
11 applied
with the dry
brush
technique.

The base has been sculpted with modeling paste; the bridge was built using balsa wood sticks. The bridge has been given
58 a “dirt treatment” similar to the one applied to the tank.
52-61 Type ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:59 Página 59

COLOUR CHART
(Figures)
TAMIYA (acrylics)
XF-2 flat white
XF-7 flat red
XF-10 flat brown
XF-15 flat flesh
XF-54 dark sea grey
XF-64 red brown
MODEL COLOR (acrylics)
817 scarlet
845 sunny skin tone
874 USA-tan earth
880 khaki grey
This Warriors’ figure is Base color for the face is a The helmet has a
896 Germ. cam. extr. dk. green
assembled right out of the mixture of 60% 921, 30% mixture of 80% 874 and
blister with no 817 and 2% 983. 20% 921, highlighted
918 ivory
modifications with 845 and 918 and
921 English uniform
whatsoever. Priming is shaded with 921 with a 923 Japanese uniform WWII
essential for helping paint little bit of 950. 927 dark flesh
adhere well. 950 black
951 white
976 buff
The sowing lines and the
helmet are carefully
983 flat earth
outlined with 950.

I created clusters of sand on the boards of the bridge using powdered color pigments fixed in place with oil paint diluted
in enamel thinner. 59
52-61 Type ING_PzI.F 06/06/13 11:57 Página 60

This Verlinden German

soldier has been transformed
into a Japanese soldier by
replacing his head for a
Hornet reference and giving
him a weapon and a helmet
both produced by Dragon.
The wrist watch on the
figure was made with a
tinfoil strap and sphere. The
watch allows you to paint
the arm first, gluing it on
later.

Flesh tones on the figure are

airbrushed using Tamiya’s
XF-15 slightly darkened with
XF-10. Highlights include
XF-2 and shadows include
XF-7 and XF-64. The job is
finished by hand, using
Model Color Acrylics,
creating the adequate
highlights and shadows.

Once highlights and shadows

are applied using 845 and
927+921+817 respectively,
we take again 817 and create
a few paint veils with it
underneath the figure’s
cheeks.

Just like the tanker’s

overalls, the other items of
clothing contain a mixture of
60% 923 and 40% 880.
Highlights include 979 and
951, and shadows include
896 and 950.

The figure is seen here in its

definitive place, water is
transparent acrylic resin
obtained by mixing two
components and tinted
green.

60
52-61 Type ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 11:59 Página 61

Before pouring transparent resin for the river, I painted the river bed green and glued a few branches to create a feeling of
depth. The resin component was laid in layers (1mm thick), allowing each layer to dry up completely. I finished the job
by covering the river surface with a couple of gloss acrylic varnish.
61
62-63 Aula ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 12:03 Página 62

Modelling Lessons
By: Fernando González Sánchez
Text by: Carlos de Diego vaquerizo
Picture credits: Fernando Cañellas Planchuelo

boot tracks
In this issue we will use again a very simple method for creating boot prints on
vehicles; this simple technique will save us the unnecessary complication of having
to paint them.

W
W
e’ll basically create a mold
using Maskol masking
liquid, as explained on
issue Nº 6 of this magazine. This
mold will obviously be made on the
sole of a boot, a very simple thing
that does not require any special abi-
lity. When this product dries up it
acquires a flexible rubbery texture that
allows you to bend it without brea-
king it. The special texture of the
mold with the negative boot print can
be used to stamp a print identical to a
miniature human step.
We have used a boot on a scale of
1/16 in order to get good pictures for
the review; however this system works
on other scales like 1/35 or 1/48. Necessary products: Maskol,
When using enamels or acrylics it is a ball of putty (the one you
convenient to dry off the print with a mix two components),
paper towel because paint will other- curved tip tweezers,
wise obliterate the print. Even if this is toothpick, pastel chalk,
a fairly simple method, in order to sandpaper and a boot with a
learn the right amount of paint and nice design on its sole.
pressure necessary it would be conve-
nient to do a number of tests on some We obtain the negative
old kit before spoiling our current one. mold. The ball of putty is
If we don’t want to risk leaving mixed with our fingers, we
prints anyway (these will be extremely flatten it out and we press it
hard to remove once paint dries up) against the sole. It is
important to do this when
we can always use powdered pig-
the product begins to harden
ments or pastel powder obtained by
and not before because this
sanding a pastel chalk. We can later way it will not adhere to the
on fix this powder in place by laying a sole.
few drops of enamel thinner if we
wish to.
Once it has hardened
On the step by step captioned pic- completely, we distribute on
tures used in this review we’ve used the hollow area of the sole
pastel powder, because it is by far the some Maskol with a
simplest method and can be done by toothpick, spreading it well
hobbyists having any level of experti- to avoid forming air bubbles
se. on the inside.
62
62-63 Aula ING:PzI.F 10/05/13 12:03 Página 63

We obtain pastel powder by sanding one end of

the pastel chalk.

A few hours later, when the Maskol product has

dried out completely, the mold is patted against
the powdered chalk with our helpful tweezers.

Pastel powder is caught in the

features of the boot print.

The mold is now stamped against

the surface of the kit just like a
rubber stamp.

The result obtained is pretty

realistic; the prints shouldn’t be
perfectly stamped. You can also
vary the amount of pastel powder
and the pressure applied to have
clear or diffuse prints, and you can
even combine two different pastel
color tones in the powder.

63
64 ING STAFF OK:ESP STAFF 10/05/13 12:06 Página 64

Publishing Manager
Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
Editor in Chief
Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo
Translated by
Ándres Pérez Fernández
Have collaborated in this issue:
Sergio de Usera Múgica
Octavio Díez Cámara
Mario Gabás Ruiz
Pere Pla Maestro
José Manuel Flores Pérez
Jordi Escarré González
Cristóbal Vergara Durán
editorial Basilio Tante Díaz
Francisco José Pinos Cabrera
Joaquín García Gázquez
Fernando González Sánchez
One of the most peculiar vehicles employed on the Vietnam War was the M- Photographers
113 armed with a 20mm Vulcan gun. Although vulnerable because of its light Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
armoring, this was a rather efficient vehicle in mid-distance combat, being a key Fernando Cañellas Planchuelo
weapon when defending fixed points such as advanced posts and bases. The Raúl Fernández Ruiz
version offered is a kit that has been through the hands of two hobbyists: Sergio Illustrations
Usera has taken care of its assembly and details and the painting chores have Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo
been handled by Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo. Lay Out
Raúl Fernández Ruiz
Wear effects on vehicles are becoming more and more realistic every day. KOMMAD S.L.
White is a camouflage color that adequately applied can give pretty satisfactory
results, as Mario Gabás readily proves with this StuG. III. Printed by
IBERGRAPHIC 2002
The British had a fair range of light vehicles with or without wheels and many Scanning & Filmsetting
of those are only manufactured in resin like this attractively executed Humber kit ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
that Pere Pla showcases. J. David Hernández Chacón
Raúl Fernández Ruiz
Unquestionably the “Waffen SS” uniforms were visually attractive, and the
possible color combinations do offer a wide range. In order to cover up this wide Computer Graphics
range, Acción Press and Vallejo acrylics have released a series of specific paint J.David Hernández Chacón
references designed by José Manuel Flores. This vignette is featured here just to Editorial and Technical Staff,
show you the excellent results obtained with this new color range. Administration and Advertising
ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
From the very beginning of the German invasion of Russian national territory, c/Ezequiel Solana, 16
the Soviet Army had a weapon range that could easily prevail over the German 28017 Madrid
one, but an inadequate use neutralized its capacity. An example of this weapon Tel.: +34 913 675 708
+34 914 086 135
range is the KV-1 that Cristóbal Vergara presents on this original kit with a three
Fax: +34 914 085 841
color pre war camouflage scheme. accionpress@euromodelismo.com
Japanese tanks have always looked to us as something weak and old Subscriptions
fashioned, but in point of fact they worked wonders for the Japanese Army and North American Subscription6
were designed to work on different grounds (jungle and fields) were a light frame MMD-Squadron
was absolutely essential. Joaquín García Gázquez introduces us to one of those 1115 Crowley Drive
Carrollton, Texas 75011-5010
tanks; the Type-89, a piece particularly prone to wear and dirt effects. USA
Making small molds in order to create certain effects, helps us add specific In Spain:
touches to our kits and this review just proves it. Marisó Chacón
Tel. +34 913 675 708
Published by
ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A
ISSN: 1886-4457
Rodrigo Hernández Cabos The reproduction of the images and
texts is prohibited, using any
current or future technical medium
without written consent of the
author. ACCION PRESS, S.A. does
not necessarily support its
64 collaborators’ opinions.