Issue 85 Cover_Issue 26 cover 09/10/2015 10:34 Page 1

85
NOV/DEC. 2015 • £6.50 UK $15.99
www.mengafvmodeller.com
November / December 2015
Meng AFV Modeller

ADAM WILDER’S IS-4

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CONTENTS
2 Meng’s T-10M
The Editor enjoys an out of the box build of Meng’s new Russian heavyweight.

10 Engine Change Challenge

Ian Barraclough’s detail-packed diorama.

16 Panzerkampfwagen IV Part 3
The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.

22 IS-4
Adam Wilder applies his sublime styling to Trumpeter’s kit.

34 Doher
Pascal Bausset gives the IDF makeover to AFV Club’s ‘109.

44 Keeping Track
More new releases

56 M36B1
Fabbio Sacchi shows the work involved to create an accurate 90mm ‘Jackson’.

Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by

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or ommissions.

ISSN 2059-4305
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RUSSIA’ S LAST HEAVY TANK

The original T-10 design was developed It is easy to see the design lineage of
in late 1953 but the upgraded T-10M did the T-10 with features that are very
not enter service until 1958 it was similar to the JS-3. Meng’s new kit takes
designed to combat the American M103 on the challenge of kitting the beast with
and British Conqueror, it weighed in at all their usual flair and skill. You have the
an impressive 51.5 tons. The arrival of choice of building the tank with the big
designs like the T-62 and M-60 brought turret bin that I used or you can leave it
an end to heavy tank designs on all off and if you prefer there is a really
sides but the T-10M remained in service convincing tarpaulin that can be fixed to
right up until as recently as 1993. the back of the turret. Either way its a
vehicle with a real presence and long
sleek design that is hard not to like.

DAVID PARKER BUILDS THE NEW MENG KIT

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Blissful Build for the Big Fella

It was stress-free modelling all the way when

putting the T-10 together. As we have come to
expect everything comes together perfectly. I
did manage to confuse myself with some of the
suspension parts mainly because of my
insistence in having my hull tub the opposite
way round to how it is drawn in the
instructions, leading to the perhaps
inevitable mixing up of similar looking
parts. A classic case of me thinking I
knew best rather than paying close
attention to the instructions!

A word about the individual link tracks which proved to be a real pleasure to between the two halves of the jig sections of 6 track pins are easily and
assemble. I de-sprued the links with sprue cutters with no further clean up precisely guided into the holes in the tracks for a snug push fit. Its quick easy
required. The kit provides a clear plastic jig to assemble the links. It is and quite satisfying to plug the pins in place. With the jig removed the
possible to load the links incorrectly so that the holes do not line up so I section of track is ready to have the pins carefully trimmed and the pin
4 marked the jig to avoid doing this. Once the links are loaded and sandwiched sprues removed.
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Fortunately I realised that the ride height of the subtle machined texture also falls together. If you
running gear was wrong so I was able to correct fit the optional turret bin there are some location
my mistake. Working torsion bar suspension allows holes to drill out. Rather than adding the
you articulate the roadwheels and polycap wheel photoetched bolt detail to the lips of the turret bin I
fittings are another welcome feature for easy wheel just punched out some bolts from plastic card and
painting. added them. The impressive hatch mounted heavy
Once the running gear is assembled its all very machine gun is quite a complex piece to assemble
straight forward with only fixtures like the headlamp but the finished weapon makes it well worth the
guards requiring some care to de-sprue and the effort. I decided not to add the tow ropes or the log
sprue points on the front fender stowage bins at this stage and I did not glue the fuel drums in
needing careful clean up. The turret with its position to make painting easier.

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With those big brass screens on the engine decks I green is always difficult to match but i was very
wanted to apply a primer so I used the new Mr. pleased with how this looked. For the turret markings
Finishing Surfacer 1500 black which I thinned with I hand painted markings copied from a WWII T-34/85,
the Gunze blue label thinners. It sprayed well and inaccurate but impactful! I love the design of the
produced a great soft sheen finish. Sticking with new number 4.
paints I used Akan acrylic colours for the Russian
green - a base coat of 4BO 73020 and . Russian

Different shades of darker greens

were spattered over the model to
break up the uniform green finish.
The T-10 then received an overall dark green/ black pin wash - at one time
I would have been happy with the model as it looked at this point.

Green Fingers
I decided to use the T-10 as a canvas for me to
step outside my comfort zone and try to
approach my painting in a different way with
some unfamiliar techniques as well as pushing
the weathering of the tank beyond where I might
for a more strictly realistic finish. I opted for a
plain overall green scheme with some
hypothetical turret markings to add interest. I did
consider the large white band markings featured
on the box art but as I thought these would be
the popular choice I just mixed the colours on the
fuel drums, with an unpainted example included.

Next I applied a pale sand oil filter across the model with subtle
streaking on the turret and sloping hull plates.

6 The same process was repeated with stronger acrylic colours using a similar, but Pooling the paint around the raised details gives the impression of
more brown palette residual dust and dirt deposits.
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Fine sponge was used to apply small dark brown scuffs and chipping marks Likewise the turret roof and hatches were treated with the sponge effects.
in areas of high wear like the corner of the front mudflaps.

The flat topped fuel tanks were also chipped in the same Small chips around the mantlet also help to break Using the same acrylic was colour I airbrushed
way. up the uniformity of the finnish. very selective areas of dust like the intersection of
the front fenders with the hull.

The tracks were airbrushed in a dull brown and JS-3 exhausts spew out large amounts of black soot I added more opaque paints into the mix that was
treated with the same acrylic wash. The steel and oil so i decided to replicate the same look here. sprayed over the area. The Tenscrom dries with a
areas on the wheel rims and tracks was brush I began by airbrushing Lifecolor Tenscrom Soot. gloss finish - ideal for the oily areas.
painted with the new Vallejo Metal Color acrylics

I wanted to replicate the oily residue from where spilt fuel

attracts dust so there is a variation in the colours from
browns through to more oily blacks for fresher deposits. I
used Lifecolor acrylics again for this, starting with the
lighter brown tones and building up the darker colours
over this. The acrylics are very flexible, allowing very
transparent colours and opaque finishes which will blend 7
just like oil washes providing you work reasonably quickly.
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Accumulated fuel stains running down the The same colour pallete is used to apply leaking lubricants around the wheel hubs, starting again with the lighter
sides of the hull are layered with darker browns and blending towards the darker brown/blacks.
tones, this picture is taken towards the
end of the process.

I worked over the dark chipped areas on the track guards and fenders with Lifecolor I thought it would enhance the character of the model to add some natural
rust tones, building up thin washes on top of the chipped parts. debris, the remains of some camouflage or the result of operating in tall
grass. I used Plumber’s hemp to create the grass, placing small clumps or
individual strands with diluted PVA to fix them.

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Small bits of grass were also added to the engine decks and I
added some longer pieces looped over the return roller mounts.
Right the tow ropes were now added using copper wire cables
with the kit tow rope eyes, heavily chipped with areas of polished
metal and subtle rust stains.

I substituted the kit plastic beam with a real piece of wood of a similar diameter. Straps were Dried mud was speckled over the rear fenders and rear hull using a
added with aluminium foil. My replacement log had a very red colour which I toned down by flat brush flicked against some scrap plastic to spatter the paint.
applying an acrylic grey/green wash. The cut ends were also repainted and once fitted the
tank I added some exhaust stains.

Heavy Hitter
I have to say that I really enjoyed
myself with the T-10M and I am really
pleased with the look of the finished model. It is
always pleasing when you can assemble such a well
detailed model straight out of the box and enjoy yourself with some
creative painting. Russia’s final heavy tank has been a big hit with me! 9
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Heart transplant
Ian Barraclough set himself a challenge
creating this scene, but what better
reference is there than actually being

I
n the spring/summer of 2012 I served for 3 months in the British
Army Training Unit Suffield (BATUS) as part of a two man
Serious Equipment Failure Investigation Team (SEFIT). SEFITs
remit is to undertake investigations into serious equipment failures,
particularly those that have caused, or have the potential to cause,
injury or death; this assists the Ministry of Defence (MOD) to meet
its Duty of Care to its employees while contributing to increased
equipment availability.
We were called out to a Challenger 2 (Cr2) pack (CV12 engine +
TN54 gearbox) fire. After a 3 hour drive in our GMC pick-up,
callsign 75A, we arrived at the given grid reference to find the Cr2
already had its decks removed and the fire had been contained.
With one investigator taking photographs, the other questioned
the driver and commander as to what had occurred and what had
been experienced. Many photographs were taken (as was always
the case in an investigation of equipment failure), however the
evidence gained soon pointed towards a lack of oil in the engine
that had caused the engine to overheat.

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C h a ll e n g e r I I
This is the older Trumpeter kit assembled thinned clear blue paint and finally added a approximate 1 month rotation, so call signs
with the Eduard etched brass set. I had small disk to represent the lid. In BATUS are repeatedly painted over, re-masked
the usual problems with this kit with poorly all vehicles and troops must display and repainted. It’s common to see
fitting turret bins and the main gun sitting Cylume sticks at night - blue indicates numerous styles of numbering on one
too far forward on its trunnions. These were vehicles. These were then taped to the single vehicle. Some very light chipping
corrected; and the etched brass set adds antennas using thin strips of Tamiya was achieved using a sponge and acrylic
a bit of finesse to the old kit. I used on-line masking tape painted black. paint – I find this method much easier to
reference to scratch build the engine bay, I almost exclusively use Acrylics these days control than the hairspray method. The
air filters and final drive housings using for a fume-free painting experience. For tank was numbered using decals from the
much plastic stock and ‘gizmology’ from the same reason I mix my own oils and spares box and named after my daughter,
the spares box. I also built the Secondary powder mixes using odourless thinners and Eleanor.
Generator (Generator Unit Engine (GUE) spirits. After a soapy wash, the kit was
using an old truck engine and lots more airbrushed (Badger 360) with Tamiya Power Pack: The CV12 + TN54 pack is the
gizmology. The engine bay isn’t 100% Acrylics - I mix my own colours until I get Accurate Armour resin and etched brass
accurate, although it looks the part! I cut the ‘right feel’. In reality the colours differ model; and it’s a model in its own right –
the engine deck in two and hinged it to hugely between vehicles depending on it’s huge! Again, using on-line reference
show it already lifted off – the brace for dust build up, mud and fading. I never get this was detailed with solder wire but that’s
doing this is included in the kit. I added too hung up on colours – if it looks right about all that’s needed for this
water bottles with Cylume glow sticks that will do… Weathering was completed exceptionally well detailed kit. I used the
inside (a crew trick to allow the easy using dark washes and filters. Mud was Accurate Armour lifting shackles and lifting
replacement of the spent glow stick) to the made up from weathering powders and beam kit to add these details to show it
antennas by drilling out the tops of real sand/mud and ‘flicked’ on using being lifted from the engine bay.
clear water bottles with a 0.5mm an old toothbrush. These vehicles
drill bit. Then I filled the hole with are switched between units on an

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Warrior 513 the hull and crane – I added these with very
fine sand, sifted through a tea strainer onto
The Warrior 513 (Wr 513) externally differs wet paint in pre-masked areas (I used yellow
from the Warrior 512 (Wr 512) primarily in as I had an abundance of it!). I bought this
the fact that it is fitted with the rear spade; kit at a kit swap and was delighted to find
internally the Wr 513 is also fitted with a 20 Friul metal tracks included in the box – I
tonne winch. The 513 is used as the repair used a trick of removing two links from one
and recovery variant. end, then completing the run by
The Accurate Armour kit will build perfectly connecting the two ends with a cut down
out of the box for an older version of the elasticated hair band (thanks Ellie). This
513 (fitted with Clansman Radio), however allows you to ‘open’ the run up to get it
upgrades, mainly around the Bowman over the wheels and sprockets; the
radio fit have added extra cabling conduits connection is hidden on the top run behind
around the external hull and some of the the side skirts. The model was painted in
external fittings have also been moved to the same method as the Cr2, however this
accommodate the new fit. I used on-line time I went to town on the paint chipping.
reference again to upgrade my 513 and In BATUS the vehicles are run through an
get it ‘looking right’. I also had the Eduard annual refurbishment programme with
etched brass set for the Warrior IFV, from vehicle ‘types’ being put through the paint
which I cherry picked the juicy parts such shop on a typical 2/3 year rotation. In this
as clasps, locks and handles. The crane instance the 513 fleet was about due for a
was modified to be workable so that I repaint, so were showing heavy weathering
could get the exact positioning later on and chipping (the CR2’s had recently been
once in the diorama. Numerous hydraulic repainted). The marking were again added
hoses were also added to the crane. The from the decal spares box and I also
pictures I have show a very heavy layer of printed a few myself – the name DILLIGAF
anti-slip paint applied to the top surfaces of is an old REME adage…

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Crew-Cab
The pick-up is the Meng kit (I saved the AA gun for a later
diorama). I bought the Voyager etched brass set for this
kit although used very little of it. 75A was a GMC whereas
the Meng closely resembles a Toyota; however this was
the best I was going to get. I added some poles to the
rear bed as per the real thing (for the fitting of Cylume
glow sticks); and printed some BATUS number plates and
call sign numbers onto white decal paper. Again, as per
the real thing call sign numbers were ‘taped’ onto the
sides and front of the vehicle using painted Tamiya
masking tape. In reality we used black masking tape on
the real thing and lost many of the boards! I had an old
GMC etched brass badge which I added to the front of the
vehicle and added ‘SEFIT’ lettering in the windows from
model railroad decal lettering. The vehicle was painted
with a light grey colour, highlighting the centre panels with
white. I find ‘clean’ vehicles difficult to paint - at least with
a tank you can pass off a mistake as battle damage or
weathering! I added dust with an airbrush – at the time of
this incident it was mid-summer and we were sticking
mainly to tracks so the vehicle wasn’t too muddy.

The figures are again from the Accurate Armour Modern

British line. I have replaced all of the heads; and some of
the hands with Hornet ones and some of the arms were
replaced with items from the spares box to get the poses I
wanted. I painted all the figures with Tamiya Acrylics - the
14 figures not in plain green overalls were painted to
represent the newer, Multi-Terrain Pattern (MTP) uniforms.
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G r o u nd w o r k
I am limited in the amount of space I have the undulating plaster better using white base. I added a couple of Prairie Dogs
to display my models, so this one had to glue. Here I also left ‘cut-outs’ for the CR2 (Gophers), modified from Plus Models rats
be compact, but I didn’t want it to look and Wr 513 tracks to get them properly and a Laptop and Camera Bag from the
cramped. The base is a simple sheet of sunk into the grass as well as leaving the Verlinden Modern Accessories set. The
MDF with plastic sheet around the edges. muddy track grass free. As with all my picture on the laptop screen is a
On top of this I placed a layer of undulating dioramas, the vehicles are screwed photograph of the real incident, reduced
plaster, painted with Tamiya Flat Earth – through the bottom of the vehicle into the and printed onto decal paper.
This will be well hidden so I wasn’t too base – I move every two years and need to
bothered about the final appearance here. know that they won’t fall to bits each time: C on c l u s i on
On top of this I glued Modelscene grass if you have the confidence hold the whole This is the first time I’ve attempted to
mats (Steppe with many stones & Steppe completed diorama upside down, you will model a ‘real scene’ and I’m pleased with
with fewer stones) – I cut two mats up into also be happy that nothing will fall off when the outcome – it received a Best in
smaller pieces and then pieced them moving around. I attached the figures with Show/Best Diorama at IPMS Avon and a
together like a jigsaw. I find this gives a CA and thin piano wire drilled in to the Silver award at the IPMS Nationals (Scale
more bespoke appearance and adheres to bottom of the feet and again drilled into the Model World), both in 2014.

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Panzerkampfwagen
David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit Part Three

In this installment we pick up on the work on the Driver’s controls I was also a little bit distracted in this installment by the idea of
and the other missing details from the front of the hull. This creating some crew figures for the model. I have tried to
included the clutch pedal system as well as work on the throttle demonstrate the methods used to do this as I hope it may
pedal. I was able to finally complete work on the big brake drums encourage you to try something similar, whether in 1:16 or another
and to complete elements like the Radio Operator’s seat. As with scale.
all parts at this stage I try to avoid fixing anything into position yet.

1 2

Continuing with work on the steering levers, the next job was to construct the On the brake drums I added the brackets and rod arrangement 1 aligned with
series of rods which connect the levers with the steering brakes. I used Albion the cut out section of the drum rims. I also added the five slots 2 around the
Alloys aluminium tube with the connectors shaped from thick plastic card. You rim of the drum.
can also see that the clutch pedal mount 1 has been reworked.

The left hand brake drum with all the connectors dry fitted. The control rods The right hand drum has a very similar arrangement, this also is just dry fitted.
are now fitted to the pair of legs which are mounted onto the rod that was Aber photoetched grilles have been fitted to the brake drum hubs.
fitted in the previous photo.

16 An overall view of the steering lever controls in the bow. With nothing moment of triumph when you can take a photo like this. Trumpeter did not
permanently fixed in place it was quite difficult to establish all the sizes and attempt to replicate any of this control system in the kit.
to be confident that everything would connect together so it is always a small
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Time to add some of the finer details to the brake drums and I began by The springs feed into slots on the rim of the drums which have not been
making some springs using electrical copper wire which was wound around a moulded into the kit parts so I marked the position and the drilled a 1mm
suitable sized drill bit. Folding out the last loop of the coil gives the hook diameter hole at each end of the slot.
shape at one end.

I scored parallel lines between the holes and used a micro chisel to gradually The finished slots are seen here as are the hex bolt details for mounting the
cut away the plastic between the lines until I had an even depth cut which hand wheels. These were glued in place and then the centres of the bolts
matched the depth of the holes. were partly drilled to locate the shafts of the handwheels.

A quick test fit of the brake drum to be sure that everything is correct. The On top of the drums there is another adjuster. Trumpeter have moulded a pair
delicate kit handwheels really add to the look of the drum of wingnuts but in reality these are bolt heads so I replaced them and added
the missing central brace.

I also added bolt heads to the The completed drums, its taken
spring support brackets and a pair quite a bit of work to get to here!
of rivets where the spring hooks
are connected to the bracket. 17
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With the brake drums complete I was able to rework the pipes that draw air left. I removed the plastic versions and made new sleeves from pewter sheet
through the drums to cool them. Rubber gaskets that join the sections of which was wrapped around until a suitable thickness was achieved. The ring
pipe have been poorly replicated on the right hand pipe but not at all on the clamps were made using strips of self-adhesive aluminium foil.

Another detail that has been missed from the kit are the support legs for the In reality the seat is hinged on the front edge to allow the escape hatch to be
Radio Operator’s seat. It was simple enough to construct from plastic strip accessed, even so this is an extremely confined space. The seat legs have
but making sure that the feet are clear of the escape hatch. rubber pads to cushion them.

18 The Radio Operator’s seat does not have any seat cushion, I guess because Work starts on the clutch system by building the control bar system located
these are missing from preserved vehicles. Making one from Magic Sculp under the Driver’s seat frame. I built the pair of brackets at each end first
was simple to do. before adding the connecting bar. The pedal mount 3 was also rebuilt.
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The clutch pedal was detailed by The connection at the end of the bar was The ‘U’ shaped connections at the other end of the bar were made from
adding the centreline seam using more complex than I expected with a plastic strip but are quite fragile and probably better cut from a single piece
thin plastic rod. pivot arrangement. of plastic. The wingnut was adapted from the wingnuts removed from the
brake drums. I used fine lead wire to simulate the screw thread section.

Above The actuating bar is missing from the gearbox but the
stub of the shaft is present. Its a simple fitting to make from
plastic card and rod. Right The completed dry fitted
assembly. Brass rods for the connectors add stability to the
fragile assembly.

The alignment of the clutch system had me scratching my head as it seemed Work starts on the throttle pedal - the kit has it glued into the floor in the
to pass through the seat frame. Eventually I found a picture of a vehicle wreck wrong position. I modified the kit pedal and used Albion Alloys slide fit brass
which seemed to show a hole in the frame to allow it to pass through. tube to make the shaft.

Just in front of the Driver’s seat is a small port probably to drain any build up Another part of the radio power supply is this junction box, as a rectangular 19
of water in the bottom of the hull. The kit representation is quite basic and box it is simple enough to construct and it can be test fitted on the hull wall.
lacking the hinge and latch, so these and other missing details were added.
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/10/2015 14:42 Page 20

Panzerkampfwagen

Detail of an entirely different kind now. When I build the King Tiger I had toyed with the idea of adding crew figures but I decided against it. This time things
have moved on and the advent of 3D printing technology allowed me to commission the design of a figure mannequin to assist me. Once this was 3D printed I
had resin copies made. This established the proportions for me and standardised items like the boots. The limbs were jointed with 1.5mm copper wire so that
I could establish the required pose. The Driver is seen here in position at the controls, showing the cramped conditions inside the hull. It is worth noting that
the fixed seat height makes it impossible for him to drive with his head out of the hatch as archive photos of the Panzer IV on the move show.

The Radio Operator was posed standing out of the hatch and These are the tools that I use to I use Magic Sculp and roughly form a sheet of
leaning on the hatch cover and I roughly filled in the gaps at the sculpt - the choice of different the putty with my finger and thumb before
joints in the limbs. sized tips caters for most tasks. wrapping it around one of the legs.

20 I had a small gap over the knee so I did the same with the other leg, From the back the joins on the putty I start to add the folds and creases
some more putty was added to fill it. using my wooden tool to shape the are visible and it all looks a real using the rubber brushes. I found
putty where the legs cross. mess! photographing myself in similar
clothes is an easy reference guide.
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/10/2015 14:42 Page 21

Folds and creases tend to Adding the smaller subtle creases and seam lines dow the legs. The front of Nearing completion and I am happy
interconnect and working on one area the trousers, as the putty hardens I try not to worry about unresolved areas with the overall look but some areas
leads onto the next. At this stage the as these can be reworked with fresh putty when this has dried. will need some more work.
finer surface finish is not a concern.

Progressing the Driver with the legs of the camouflage Detailing the torso is next, with plastic card The Commander figure starts to take shape with a
overalls added and his head has been detailed with hair discs for the buttons. relaxed, slumped stance.
and side cap.

Resin
upgra deta
des an il
figure d the
mann
are no equins
w ava
il
from th able
AFV M e
odelle
web-s r
hop.

The Commander wears the leather U boat jacket favoured by the 12th SS panzer crews. Smaller details have
yet to be added. I also started posing the Gunner sitting in the open turret hatch. I plan to cast the finished The project continues in the next issue 21
figures and offer them for sale for anyone who wants to crew their tank.
JS-4 article .qxp_Layout 1 12/10/2015 11:39 Page 1

IS-4
prototype

modelled by
Adam N.P. Wilder

22
JS-4 article .qxp_Layout 1 12/10/2015 11:39 Page 2

bout a year ago Trumpeter released the

A JS-4 (Kit No. 5573). Having a love for
the Soviet heavies that appeared during the
would make the completed model more
enjoyable to look at. After some
thought I decided to paint this model to
JS-2 and JS-3 tanks. The turned aluminum
gun is also from Aber. The road wheels are
produced by Friulmodel and contain an
end of the Second World War I immediately look as though it had participating in a earlier style bolt pattern on the hubs.
got my hands on a kit and started thinking hypothetical battle for Mainland Japan. Another major chore with backdating the
about how I was going to both construct Over all the Trumpeter JS-4 kit is really nice. Trumpeter kit to an Object 701 No. 5 was
and paint it. After doing some research I The only drawback that I noticed is that the properly constructing the earlier type
decided to backdate the hull to an Object dovetails where the hull plates interlock armored viewport located at the front of the
701 No. 5 prototype that was assembled in needed to be sanded smooth and resized. hull from sheet styrene. As a result of the
1944. There were actually six prototypes They are too thin indicating that the plates damaged fenders the visible lower ends of
containing different turrets, guns and hull making up the hull are not to the proper the slopped hull plates over the tracks
plate configurations that would eventually thickness. The weld detail is also lacking in needed to be thickened using strips of
lead up to the JS-4 design. I think that the these areas. sheet styrene. Personally I feel that the thick
Object 701 No. 5 prototype is more 160mm plates of steel that made up the
interesting because it has a number of When looking at the photos of the hull of the JS-4 to be the most fascinating
different details such as the Soviet assembled model you will see that the part of this very heavy AFV therefore I
WW2-style side mounted cylindrical fuel major details which needed to be altered wanted to make them visible.
tanks. I also wanted to give this model a were the fenders. I rebuilt these parts using
theoretical theme in order to apply more copper sheet. The photo etched details
damage and weathering which I knew were taken from a few Aber sets for the .

1:35
The screens over the rear vents are included
with the kit. A few of the details on the turret
such as the vents needed to be relocated to
represent the one produced in 1945.
Therefore this is basically an earlier variant
which might have appeared in 1945 instead
of the production JS-4 which appeared later
in 1947. Let’s now look at how the model
was painted.

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Photos 1 and 2:
The first thing that I did
was to airbrush a few
coats of primer over all
of the copper and
brass details. After a
glossy black shadow
coat was sprayed onto
what would be the
shaded areas of the
model. Please note
that this is a simple
method that I have
been using for almost
ten years. Not the
black and white
technique.

01

02

Photos 3 through 5:
For the basecoat I airbrushed the Colour Modulation Style using
different olive drab tones of Life-colour Acrylics. I refer to this
method of applying highlights toward the bottom of the hull and
turret as “The New Colour Modulation Style”. Applying Colour
Modulation in this manner correctly follows some of the shading
03
and highlighting methods used by artists.

04 05

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06 07

Photos 6 through 9:
After painting some of the details with lighter
colours using a brush I lightly airbrushed a
diluted semi-transparent layer of green over
the entire model subtly unifying the different
colours. A coat of clear red was then
applied. Oils were blended over the model
to help further merge the shades of the
Colour Modulation while adding more tones
to the basecoat.

09 08

Photos 10 and 11:

I wanted the camouflage to be really chipped like some of the Soviet vehicles used
during the Cold War as seen on these vehicles that I photographed in Kubinka.

10 11

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12 13

Photos 12 through 15:

To get this look I spayed a few good coats of
hairspray over the model. Next I airbrushed
the first brown colour that would make up
the camouflage. Using an old brush
dampened with tap water I removed some
of the camouflage away from the hairspray.
Once content with the worn appearance of
the first tone I sealed it using a few coats of
clear.

14 15

Photos 16 and 17:

After letting the model sit for a few hours I
added a second colour. I repeated the
process of adding another coat of hairspray,
airbrushing a sand tone, chipped it, and
then sealed it using another few coats of
clear.

Photos 18 through 20:

I preformed the whole process one more
time for the White Manchuria strip over the
hull and turret. Note how the white needed 16 17
to be chipped where it was over the worn
camouflage.

18 19 20

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Photos 21 and 22:

With the camouflage completed I started
adding shadow washes around the different
details and seams. Thinner was used to
clean the unneeded areas of the wash
before it could dry.

Photos 23 and 24:

I added some light chipping using a dark
brown colour over the olive green areas with 21 22
a sponge and then a fine 000 paintbrush. I
now refer to this type of chipping as the
“Traditional Chipping Process”.

Photos 25 through 30:

Enamel rust tones from the Nitroline were
applied and blended with enamel thinner in
order to get subtle rust effects over the
chips. Pigments were added to the Nitroline
rust tones to ensure that these enamel
effects would remain matt when creating
the larger areas of rust.
23 24

25 26 27

28 29 30

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31 32 33

Photos 31 through 33:

Specking effects from the Nitroline were used to
get more fine rusty chipping effects. First test
the specks on a scrap piece of paper prior to
adding them onto your model in order not to
overdue the effect. This technique should be
kept very subtle.

Photo 34:
Textured Earth was used to start building up
areas of mud over the lower hull and wheels.
The Textured Earth is an acrylic product that will
34
not crack when it solidifies.

Photos 35 through 38:

I added Nitroline earth tones, let them set for a
few minutes and randomly, but not completely,
blended them using enamel thinner. After these
earth effects had about 24 hours to dry I had a
good base of dust tones to work as a pedestal
for the rest of the upcoming weathering steps.

35

36 37 38

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40

39 41

Photos 39 through 41:

Pigments were used to help blend and
add more tones to the Nitroline earth
effects applied earlier. Enamel thinner
can be used to blend the pigments.

Photos 42 and 43:

More Textured Earth was speckled onto 42 43
the lower hull and rear areas where large
amounts of mud would accumulate.

Photos 44 through 47:

I mixed a darker satin earth tone to add
more colour and texture to the dry lighter
areas of mud. I brushed on the mix, let it
dry for a minute then blended it using
thinner. After I applied more of the darker
tone onto the lower hull and running gear
using speckling.

44

45 46 47

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Photos 48 through 50:

The running gear was weathered using
the same methods that I described on
the hull. I sanded away the outer layers of
paint from the wheels exposing the outer
polished metal surfaces. A Black Metal
powder was used to subtly tone down
these shinny areas. A bright steel powder
was used to get the polished areas on
the outer cleats of the weathered plastic
track.

48 49

Photos 51 through 54:

After attaching the running gear and
track onto the hull I brushed on and
blended more of the dark satin earth mix
shown back in photo 44. It is always best
to have different authentic looking tones
50
of matt, satin and glossy earth effects on
a model when it is possible.

51 52

53 54

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Photos 55 and 56:

I added some murky Water wet effects
over some of the regions of dark mud to
get what appeared to be patches of wet
earth. Wet effects are also a great way to
break up matt looking areas of dust on
the top and sides of a model.

55 56

Photos 57 through 59:

After airbrushing some matt black
acrylics around the exhaust outlets I
brushed on some black pigments in order
to give a nice flat finish to these effects.
Glossy Diesel Exhaust Runs were then
brushed in streaks over the matt exhaust
effects. More fine amounts of the Diesel
Exhaust Runs were speckled over these
regions.

57

58 59

Photos 60:
You can also use Diesel Exhaust Runs to
quickly get grease effects around some
of the hubs on the wheels.

60

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Conclusion:
After finishing the model I was happy that I decided
to go with the hypothetical battle for Mainland
Japan idea. All of the damage along with the
vibrant chipped camouflage and weathering gave
this thick plated Soviet heavy tank a very war-torn
menacing look. Remember that your weathering
will always look more authentic when you have
areas of matt, satin and glossy earth tones. I would
like to thank Ivan Cocker for the lovely
figures. They really help to give the
viewer a sense as to how big and
heavy this relatively
unknown Soviet tank
really was.

33
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/10/2015 16:07 Page 34

DOHeR PASCAL BAUSSET CONVERTS AFV CLUB’S M109

A part from the United States of America, Israel (the IDF)

is a major user of the M109 self-propelled howitzer.
The IDF has used the full range of this vehicle, from
the short barrelled M109 to the latest long barrel versions.

The M109 entered in service with the Israeli Defence Forces in the
early ‘s. The first were used unmodified during the 1973 Yom
Kippur War. Early long barreled M109s were known as Rochev
(Rider) which are almost identical to the standard U.S. M109A1 and
A2. From 1992, the IDF have been upgrading the vast majority of
their Rochev to a new SPH known as Doher (Galloper). The Doher
has many improvements making it equivalent to the U.S. Army
M109A6 Paladin. The main armament consists of a 155mm M178
cannon with a range of 23.5 km (US Army sources). Two FN MAG
roof machine gun are used for self-defence.

External details that can identify a Doher Self Propelled Howitzer

are:
• Two machine guns mounted on the vehicle roof
• Electrical tele-operated travel lock (known as BiFoot), the barrel
can be locked from inside without exterior assistance
• External auxiliary power unit (EAPU). This item will be not in
common use. EAPU is not in place in most of in action pictures
of the Doher. The EAPU is positioned in the right hand back
basket.
• Higher shape for the Commander’s cupola and the panoramic
telescope ballistic cover. They are raised to give more visibility.

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The AFV Club kit comes on fifteen sprues any air bubbles. Some time is required, as
with one moulded clear, a metal gun with most resin sets, to clean the parts
barrel, vinyl tracks and a decal sheet for ready for assembly. Good instructions are
two US Army, one Portuguese Army and an provided giving clear colour pictures
Egyptian Army markings. Parts are well depicting several important construction
moulded and the fit is good throughout. stages.

The Legend conversion kit comes as usual

in a grey resin with two photo etched frets,
some brass rod and wire. Resin parts have
fine details and are well moulded, without

35
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Construction
Construction of the AFV Club kit is as per Legend’s instructions and used the photo build the gun breech as it is totally invisible
their instructions from stage 1 to 8. In stage etched parts for the dimensions. With the when finished if you’re closing the hatches.
2 you need to assemble the front and rear strips in place I simulated the weld beads When assembling stage 18 take care with
fixed suspension arms (A11 & A12) to the with fine styrene strips softened with liquid good alignment of parts D6, D7, D22 to the
hull tub. The remaining suspension arms cement. gun assembly. If not correctly placed the
remain movable should you wish. gun won’t sit into the gap in the turret.
Follow the AFV Club instructions again from In stage 22 you need to adapt the
In stage 9 replace the kit’s travel lock with stage 10 to15. In stage 10 leave off the panoramic telescope ballistic cover with the
the Legend one with the exception of part cable drum (C18, C19, and C20) and fill the new Legend part 13. Forget stage 23 to 26
Q19. I’d suggest leaving this assembly until holes as this cable drum is fitted inside the as it is specific for US Army M109A2s. The
late in your construction as it’s very fragile. turret on the Doher, not on the rear door. turret rear compartment door is replaced
Rear idler wheels need to be correctly drilled with the resin one (Legend part 3 and four
When hull assembly is complete you need to to improve the look of the mud evacuation P35). More of the resin from the Legend set
add the IDF M109 specific anti-slip parts. I holes, an easy task to add some detail. With is added with the great looking stowage
didn’t use the photo-etched parts from the the lower hull complete I left the tracks off baskets,the roof details are finished as the
Legend kit as I found them to look for assembly later. AFV Club kit, don’t use the M2 barrel (part
inaccurate. I replace them with square Q14) as there is no HB M2 machine gun on
plastic strips 0.5 X 0.5 mm For positioning Now you can build stages 16 to 21 straight the Doher.
the strips I use the reference image in from the box without modifications. I didn’t

Overview of the M109 hull with

movable suspension provided by
torsion bars

Dry fit of the main gun and the IDF

specific tele-operated travel lock.

Anti-skid strips; first stage is Weld-beads are now added to

positioning the plastic strip. the anti-skid strips.

I prefer to solder metal parts

The side bars are now complete
when possible gaining far
and ready to install on the hull sides
stronger a bond than CA
after some sanding and cleaning.

36
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/10/2015 16:07 Page 37

The Legend set is very pleasing to work with. There are

the usual casting blocks to be removed and some of
these are quite substantial requiring care when cutting
and sanding so as not to damage any details.
Positioning the large rolled tarpaulin on the rear of the
turret reveals a few gaps. When in place, I used some
‘Green Stuff’ to add some missing volume and give a
realistic finish where it meets the turret edge.

I found it best to paint all of the front basket stowage

before adding the mesh. After the mesh is in place the
wooden crate and identification panel (0.5 mm plasticard)
can be fitted. I replaced the kit vinyl tracks with the
separate link track set from AFV Club. Assembly is easy
but time-consuming as we expect from individual links. 78
links per side are installed and the tracks fit very nicely
indeed.

For simulating the M109 specific track sag I glued the

tracks to the road wheels using Micro Kristal Klear glue. I
didn’t paint them before final installation to the kit’s
wheels, I just used a lot of pigment (desert sand and earth
from the MIG line of products) to obtain the final look.
Pigments were then fixed with MIG fixer and details such
as the rubber pads picked out with paint at a later stage.

The Legend set proved to be a good fit to

the kit, some blending of the large tarpaulin
was needed to provide a gap-free fit.

37
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Painting and Weathering

The base colour for my Doher is applied using different shades of IDF colours from used for the registration plate (front of the
using the old IDF sand grey 1982 from the Lifecolor range as was the stowage vehicle) and numbers (on the two rear
Lifecolor. I prefer it to the new version and all the other pieces of equipment. mudguards). A second registration plate is
because the colour is greyer and looks Some items were picked out in Olive Drab normally situated on the rear left side of
more accurate to me. tones, also from Lifecolor. the hull, but is completely hidden by the
After the base colour I applied a pin wash left spade in high and travel position.
to the whole vehicle using AK Interactive Lots of decals were applied to this model. I To make accurate markings it’s best to
dark washes to lift the finer details. used two decal sheets from Bison Decals, refer to an action picture of a specific
Random washes and filters, using more AK reference 35055 is dedicated to the IDF Doher with the spades lowered.
Interactive products, were added to M109 family with endless possibilities it’s Finally, and after positioning the tracks,
realistically vary the surface tones. best to look closely at your references. various shades of pigment are added.
I separately painted all the road wheels The second sheet, reference 35057, is

Turret decoration is almost complete. The

wooden tool handles are painted using
ochre shades of oil colour. The speed radar
lens (in white) is painted later using a
brownish yellow as per my reference
pictures. The mesh guards are now in place
glued with Kristal Klear.

A simple method to create the white band markings Sand grey then black are airbrushed and the
on the barrel. First a coat of overall matt white masking removed.
followed by some carefull masking.

I found some final adjustments were needed to

the tarpaulin roll, this was done with Green
Stuff then re-painted.

38
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/10/2015 16:07 Page 39

Doher’s front view with yellow parts

(engine hatches and protection plates
for the final drive drain plugs) and red
handles picked out by brush painting
acrylics. Lifting eyes and protective
covers are painted with satin black.
Note that the basket stowage is painted
and detailed before adding the mesh
guards.

The finished, fully loaded turret. The

Legend conversion certainly adds a lot
of interst and detail to the M109. Note
the subtle tonal changes across the
different components.

39
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The Base
To display the finished model I refreshed a The concrete road blocks from Model In conclusion, I had wanted to build an IDF
base I made some years ago. A simple Miniature come in flat white plaster. To give M109 for many years, Legend gave me the
heavy card had a section of Verlinden’s them a realistic look I used Tamiya chance to do this without resorting to
printed airfield sheet added (now out of Diorama Texture paint (Grit effect, light scratchbuilding. Relatively easy to adapt to
production). Some foliage from the ‘Green sand item 87110). I applied two diluted the excellent AFF Club M109A2, this
Line’ range (GL-016 Wildgrasbüschel XL) layers and painted them with with Citadell conversion and kit have to be
was fixed in place with Microscale Kristal acrylics. recommended to any IDF modeller.
Klear in random places in the gaps
between the slabs.

40
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/10/2015 16:07 Page 41

Project Items:
AFV Club M109A2 kit ref: AF 35109
AFV Club M M108-109 SPG T-136 separate
track links kit ref: AF35S23
Legend IDF M109 Doher conversion set ref: LF
1267
Model-Miniatures Merkava update set for the
concrete road blocks ref: MM-R103
Bison Decals vehicle serial numbers ref: 35057

41
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AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 11:02 Page 43
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 11/10/2015 20:55 Page 44

new releases KEEPING TRACK

Meng 1:35 British Heavy Tank Mk.V Male

Whether or not you have any interest in WW1 armour I do not think roof inspection panels can all be modelled with opened hatches with
that anyone could fail to be impressed by this staggeringly the small vision ports provided with photoetched flaps so that they
engineered piece of kit design. The big 13.5cm deep box is about can be open or closed too. Moving on to the 6pdr. gun sponsons and
twice the depth of the Tamiya Mk.IV to accommodate the 23 here again it is a densely detailed replica of the gun mount and the
separate sprues, photoetched fret, decal sheet and metal chain. The ready round ammunition stowage built into the mount. Doors and
difference in box size is because this kit comes with a completely ports once again can be open or closed. Tracks are a single piece
detailed interior rather than dubious electric motors. It is once you clip together design (hurrah!) and the kit comes with both an
start to assemble the interior that you begin to appreciate the unditching beam and the hexagonal ‘crib’ trench crossing device to
complexity of the engine and powertrain and the impressive job that mount atop the vehicle if you wish. There is a choice of three different
has been made of replicating it in plastic with an assembly sequence sets of markings on the decal sheet and a coloured guide within the
that is no where near as impossibly complex as the finished thing instruction booklet. Detail across the kit is super crisp and I think its
would suggest. even the steering brakes and drive chain assemblies great to see the complex interior replicated so skillfully. The potential
that sit within the sponsons have been reproduced and the running for cut away display models or disembowelled battlefield wrecks is
44 strips around the edges of the rhomboid sides for the tracks are fully huge and I have an idea for the one that I am building. A simply
detailed. The Driver’s cab and Commander’s cab as well as the rear stunning kit by any standards.
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:11 Page 45

Meng 1:35 Mk.A Whippet British Medium Tank

Further WW1 excitement now with another new Meng release, and without the rope insulation seen on some vehicles so that you have
this time the Whippet gets the Meng treatment. In complete the option of adding this. The intake vents are moulded individually
contrast to the Mk.V this is a beautifully simple kit which you could there is some very slight sinkage at the back of the middle vent but
probably assemble over a couple of evenings work. This kit does this should be easy to fill if required. The running gear is crisply
not have any interior detail and assembly is based around a rigid replicated with big plug in mud chute sections and some great clip
upper hull box which is moulded as a single piece. The crew cab is together individual link tracks. The kit supplies the track grousers
moulded as flat pieces with a clever folding rear plate. This is which hang from the cab and the back of the vehicle. No
designed to be folded into alignment with internal scored lines photoetch at all in the kit but there is no requirement for it with this
which allow the outer sections to fold into alignment as our test vehicle. Colour schemes are provided for two vehicles in the
shows. The crew door is moulded in place but does have internal instructions but the decal sheet clearly features markings for other
detail if you decide to cut it open. There is a similar fold vehicles, with Russian and German markings included, opening up
arrangement for the bow plates which have a pair of sturdy interal the possibilities for those who want to research a little. Its a simple
bracing posts to keep the parts aligned. The machine guns are vehicle beautifully replicated here and fills another gap in the range
beautifully detailed with separate ammunition belts and mounting of World War One vehicles that have been so popular coinciding
45
rings. The exhaust pipes are a single piece and happily come with the centenary of the start of the conflict.
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:11 Page 46

Zvezda 1:35 King Tiger Ausf.B

Zvezda’s King Tiger is an unexpected surprise and opening the welded rim moulded into the turret roof. All this would need to be
bigger than usual box reveals some very nice looking parts. The removed in order to build a vehicle manufactured after July 1944,
kit follows the usual hull tub and separate upper hull approach a fault that Dragon also made with their final production King
along with separate swing arms and individual track links. The Tiger. The tow cable eyes are dreadful and the track changing
tracks themselves are pretty good but raised pin marks on the cable has been moulded perfectly straight without any sort of sag.
inside face of the toothed links will need attention. Track teeth are A simplified gun breech is provided and hatchs have detailed
also equal height which is inaccurate. Running gear looks spot on interiors with the exception of the hull hatches. These hatches
but only provides the 9 tooth sprocket. The welded turret cupola, have what appears to be two sets of holes for handles so one set
jack and jack block will restrict you to vehicles manufactured up will need to be filled. Lifting lugs are also absent from the
until Summer 1944 and will require a zimmerit finnish. Having said armoured exhaust covers. The kit comes with nylon mesh to make
that the kit provides some later production features like the gas the engine deck screens and a nylon rope for the tow ropes.
detector plates and turret rear hatch armoured hinge covers so There are a choice of five colour schemes provided on the awful
the modeller will need to take care. The stepped style of mantlet decal sheet which is heavy, crude and best discarded. Overall the
is provided but not the smooth version and there is only the kit has great potential - a few areas that would benefit from some
40mm loaders hatch where as the later bevelled cornered rear additional detail and you are restricted to a limited number of
hatch is provided along with the rounded version. The biggest early-mid production features but other than that its an attractive
restriction to maximum flexibility is the cupola which has the starting point.

D-Day Miniatures
Another batch of beautiful figures from enjoying a brew with maybe a nip of
D-Day Miniatures with first rate rum? Two pairs of Volkssturm figures
sculpting and casting these will are just superb and would work well
complement any vehicle or scene. as a group, all great characters that
46 Maybe a Royal Navy Officer has a will be a joy to paint.
limited use in armour modelling but www.ddayminiaturestudio.com
he’s a fine figure nevertheless showcases their growing range.
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:11 Page 47

LW019E LW017M LW017R

LW019N

LW018T LW018R

LW019AC

Leopard Workshop 1:35 Leopard MBT barrel upgrades

Roll-out the barrels! The Leopard Club guys have been busy Revell’s 2A4. LW018T is to fit the Tamiya and Hobby Boss 2A5 / A6
producing these highly detailed barrel sets for the big cats. The resin and the same available with LW018R to fit Revell’s kits of the same.
casting shows some very fine finesse and very specific options are LW019N is a ‘Naked Gun’ barrel for any manufacturers kit (suitable
given with explanatory details included. Rest assured, these guys do for other 105mm equiped tanks also) and finally LW019AC which is
the homework for you! LW019E is for ‘European’ Leopard 1(any the L7 with Canadian / Australian Leopard 1s. More details for the
manufacturers kit), LW017M is for the Meng 2A4 and LW017R for Leopard modeller at www.leopardclub.ca/workshop/

Revell 1:35 GTK Boxer sgSanKfz

Revell have brought us another version of the big 8-rad 'Boxer' eight-wheeler the suspension is complexed and Revell look to
with this medical-mission version. This is a big (floppy!) box have been very comprehensive with the detail here, maybe the
packed with dark green sprues, many being familiar as the cab tyres moulded in vinyl won't please many but at Revell's price-
and chassis are as-per the previous release. What's new is the points there's always scope for some aftermarket add-ons without
high roofed ambulance module which can be interchanged breaking the bank. Interior detail only stretches to the driver's
between vehicles, German engineering at it's best and the kit position with a posable hatch as an option. This is a really nice kit
assembles in the same configuration. Moulding quality is really to build from the box and superb value but would no doubt be
good with some nice finesse throughout, there's no large 'chunks' improved with a few photoetched add ons and resin wheels.Revell 47
with the lower and upper hull following a flat plate build-up so lots model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For
of alignment and dry runs will be the order of the day. As with any details visit www.revell.de/en
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:11 Page 48

MiniArt 1:35 Pz. Kpfw. III Ausf.D

This is the first of the recent MiniArt Panzer IIIs that we've been are moulded on pre-spaced sprues and a small jig is supplied so
fortunate enough to get our hands on, I say fortunate because once the links are cleaned up assembly should be quite swift. The
popping the lid open on the box will have early German armour upper hull assembles in sections with posable hatches and very
fans hot under the collar! The D version is starting to look more like nicely done on-vehicle-equipment and fine tread pattern on the
the main production vehicles but still retains external leaf spring fenders. We've heard questions asked about the rear deck
suspension and small road-wheels. Dragon's Panzer III kits are dimensions on the earlier versions but this D version certainly
surely held in the highest esteem by German armour modellers 'looks' right. The quality continues with the turret where we're
(although they don't produce the very early versions as this) but we offered a nice interior, gun breech, co-axel MGs and multi-part
have to say MiniArt have matched their fine and delicate detail, the cupola which can all be viewed if you leave the vision ports and
moulding is superb but don't let the 1064 parts count put you off, hatches open. One question from us would be regarding the turret
almost half the parts are dedicated to the tracks. Clear parts are basket (the floor section joined to the turret), only on later Panzer
included for the vision optics and a small photoetch fret is always IIIs? So an all-round top quality production from MiniArt from the
welcome. The lower hull is built from flat plates with intricate multi- state-of-the-art moulding to the clear, full colour instructions this is
part suspension and nicely rendered wheels. The tracks are very a great out of the box build and excellent value too. Our thanks to
finely moulded, as good as many of the aftermarket sets you'll find, Miniart for the sample.
using a pin either side to allow them to remain workable. The pins

Dragon 1:35 Tiger '131' Early Production s.Pz.Abt.504 Tunisia

Coinciding with a release of a 'Tunisian' Tiger from a new step and handle on the front plate and what looks to be a new turret
manufacturer, Dragon have at last given Tiger fans the legendary ring and a loaders seat. DS tracks feel to be in a softer material, this
'131', surely the most famous of all Tigers being housed at the along with a positional tensioner on the idlers should mean we should
Bovington Tank Museum and film star of the 'Fury' movie. This kit be able to achieve suitable track sag. Close inspection shows a few
depicts 131 in it's captured state and DML really look to have gone parts need a little cutting and drilling and positional marks on the
all-out to get all of the little features correct. Being largely as per the turret for spare track hangers will need sanding, not an issue- are we
Wittmann command Tiger (kit 6730) this sees these kits in their latest not modellers? Some sensible photoetch details, including engine
evolved form (the eighth Tiger I release if I'm not mistaken) and held in deck mesh with a convincing weave and clear vision blocks finish off
very high regard for their finesse and attention to some of the another very comprehensive Tiger I, stunning detail straight from the
smallest details. New of course are the Feifel air filters which Dragon box. Along with 131 two other vehicle options are surprisingly offered
48 have made a lovely job of with the design avoiding any tricky joint (502 and 505) with call-outs for their precise details throughout the
seams, some photoetch is welcome and the braided hoses have the instructions. Out of all of the re-hash Dragon kits this one surely will
correct twist to the weave rendered beautifully. Also present are the prove the most popular, another superb Tiger.
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:12 Page 49

Dragon 1:35 Pz.Beob.Wg.V Panther mit 5cm KwK.39

Dragon are doing the usual sprue compilation here again utilising are included on the wheel sprues but lack the open guide -horn)
their existing tooling to the full. This recent release is essentially finish the package off. Even the notorious Dragon instructions are a
their Panther D/A kits and a sprue from their '234/2 providing the mix of elements of the different kits mixing CAD, line drawings and
5cm gun. New parts are the unique turret front, cupola and various photographic diagrams. So while it's maybe obvious we're not
periscope fittings carried by these observation vehicles. If you love overly excited by this release there's no denying Dragon's quality of
the sleek lines of the Panther the tiny cast mantlet and puny barrel moulding and detail, sharp and delicate with none of the tooling
certainly spoil the show! A range of DML's antenna fittings, plastic showing signs of wear and tear. Two finishes are offered but both
card side skirts and a set of one-piece DS tracks (individual links 'unidentified' units.

Dragon 1:35 Sd.Kfz.234/4

mit 7.5cm L/48
If you think the 5cm looks silly on the beobachtung Panther what sprues leaving you a fair few spares including a full upper hull and
about this? I think we're correct in saying this vehicle remained a side panel/mudguards and the 'Stummel' gun assembly. These
concept and it's not hard to see why, mounting the L/48 tank gun Dragon 8-wheelers are complicated kits due to the nature of the
in a '234 smacks of desperation towards the end of the War, even vehicles but do look superb when built with very high levels of
big fans of the 8-rads couldn't deny this is an ugly duckling! This detail throughout, the open topped versions (as this is) look
kit is yet another combination of previous releases with one particularly good with much of the interior on show. Beautiful kit,
bespoke small sprue, the lower hull and complex running gear ugly version!
remain pretty much as the rest of DML's '234s and the jumble of

Zvezda 1:35 'Soviet Car' GAZ M1

Zvezda continue to impress with their new-tooled kits bringing us and a posable bonnet with the most subtle open louvres.
this off-beat subject which would make a great diorama addition. Separate doors are constructed from inner and outer skins and
A very typical 30s / 40s design, the Emka was widely used by the you're sure to want to leave at least a couple open to show off the
Soviet Military and the kit arrives in typical Soviet fashion with their interior which is again, rich in detail right down to a stunning
basic sturdy carton and not particularly inspiring box art. Once ribbed texture on the seating. This kit looks hard to fault; maybe
inside the pack though I was quite taken aback by the moulding the tyre tread may look a little undefined just due to moulding
quality, quite stunning detail which could certainly compete with restrictions of the 'sandwiched' assembly but the wheels and 49
the best on the market. The kit features a good wings / floor single backing plates are excellent. Top marks Zvezda, looks like a
moulding to build on with a superb engine, delicate suspension demanding little build but should look superb finished.
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:12 Page 50

Inside The Armour

A very comprehensive detail set here recently released by ITA for and excellent 7.92mm BESA MG barrels in turned brass. It would
the AFV Club early Churchill to create an accurate ‘Dieppe’ version be advisable to act now if anything on ITA’s catologue takes your
from the ill-fated beach landing. The vehicle’s waterproofing is fancy as they’re winding the business down at the end of the year
sculpted in a ‘blown’ state which will make for a superb vignette. to concentrate on other projects. Get over to their website
Along with the detailed resin parts there’s some nice photoetch www.insidethearmour.com, once it’s gone, it’s gone!

Dragon 1:35 StuG.III Ausf.F

last production
We feel we're running out of things to say regarding DML's StuGs
(or Panzer IIIs and IVs for that matter), here's another slight
must be as many parts not for use as there relevant to this
variation on a previous kit to produce a late Ausf.F with the long
version which will please StuG fans. No less than three sets of
L/48 gun. As we've said on many occasions the latest generation
fenders are in the box, including the sprue from one of Dragon's
StuGs have stunning detail from the complex torsion bar
Cyber Hobby kits to produce an initial 'G' with the unique stepped
suspension and beautifully delicate wheels, a slight let-off from all
fender, Ausf.G roof, spare rear engine decks…excellent for the kit-
the demanding assembly with this boxing is the inclusion of the
bashers amongst us- you could quite easily build an Ausf. F from
single piece DS tracks. A well detailed fighting compartment and
this box, a short barrelled gun and mantlet being pretty much all
posable hatches throughout will appeal to anyone wanting to add
you'll need. Surely Dragon will eventually give us some 'short
gearbox and engine compartments from aftermarket sources.
barrel' StuGs, until then this kit should keep fans of the earlier
Looking over the pile of sprues in relation to the instructions, there

Revell 1:35 T-34/76 (model 1943)

This kit hasn't been on the market very long in it's original ICM suspension units fit to the inside of the lower hull and suspension
boxing (early 2015?) but Revell continue their relationship with ICM arms could be made posable quite easily if you're happy to ignore
and already have their own version released. This is the first time the torque plate positions (or carry out some surgery…). Tracks
we've looked at this kit and first impressions are favourable with look to be the 500mm type, while the detail of the 'waffle' tread is
clean moulding and decent looking detail. The green styrene has well moulded for soft vinyl I'd imagine most modellers will be
a pleasing matt finish which shows some delicate weld beads and looking to replace these. The turret looks nicely produced but
sand-cast texture to the turret. Assembly starts with the upper hull would benefit maybe from a metal barrel upgrade. This budget
for a change and there's some good detail around the engine priced kit will provide a good basis for some aftermarket detail
deck, no doubt the T-34 benefits from photoetch here but this is a additions, if you're a T-34 buff no doubt there'll be changes to
good rendition nevertheless with some good finesse, maybe some correct features to a specific factory vehicle, from features I can
of the bolt detail on the rear plate may be a little too fine? time to remember (without pondering the references) this kit probably
50 check the references… looks most like a UTZ built tank. Nice kit, good value for money.
Wheels are optional with rubber tyre versions ( the hole detail of Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model
the tyres looks a little heavy) look or steel rims, the in-board retailers. For details visit www.revell.de/en
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:12 Page 51

Adam’s Armour 1&2

By Adam Wilder
Published by AFV Modeller
Softback A4 format,
Vol.1 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-9555413-8-4
Vol.2 232 pages, ISBN 978-0-9555413-9-1
www.afvmodeller.com

A long time in the making, but we're very excited about releasing then start looking at choosing a subject, tools and equipment and
these two books by World renowned armour modeller Adam basic assembly methods. Adam takes on every construction
Wilder. Much of Adam's groundbreaking work has been featured element from cleaning and filling through to photoetch (including
by us right back to some of the very early issues almost fifteen soldering) and resin parts. Creating specific details such as cast
years ago. Still at the forefront of the hobby, Adam continues to textures, torch cut edges and zimmerit also have in-depth
delight us with his miniatures and these books show us just how coverage. Volume 2 shows us every aspect of Adam's finishing
he tackles every aspect of a project in great detail. Written with a techniques from base-coats and colour modulation, shading and
very one-on-one personal approach, these tutorials have highlighting, bare and damaged metals, stains and smoke effects,
something to offer anyone involved in the hobby, whether you're dirt, dust, winter white-wash…everything you might ask Adam a
just a newcomer or an old master, Adam shares every one of his question about is explained so you can easily apply the methods
techniques in clear step-by-step fashion with crisp and clear to your own work. Almost a decade in the making, we believe
images. Volume 1 starts with a look at our hobby and how it's these two volumes set a new standard in modelling guides from
evolved over the years along side Adam's journey turning his both a usability and presentation perspective. Available to order
hobby into his profession and the people who have helped him now direct from our web-shop or specialist dealers.
along the way with an extensive gallery of his famous work. We

Stalingrad
If you have Meng’s A7V here’s an
exciting set of releases from figure-
masters Stalingrad. Two suitably
pompous looking officers in convincing
poses and a youthfull looking infantryman
who would work well around the vehicle
in a seated pose. These figure are part of
a group of releases designed to work
with the A7V. Stalingrad produce some of
the nicest figures on the market with
superb sculpting and moulding. Available
Worldwide from specialist suppliers, go
to www.stalingrad.diorama.ru for more 51
details on their superb range.
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:12 Page 52

Forgotten Archives 1 Panzerwrecks books are always a treat and this new release is certainy no exception. This is a much
The Lost Signal Corps Photos more substantial 240 page book than the usual Panzerwrecks format which was what I was
expecting when I first saw the title announced. The book delves deep into the archives of the U.S.
By Darren Neely Army Signal Corps who were responsible for documenting the American Army during WWII and this
Published by Panzerwrecks first book covers the European theatre, from Normandy to the end of the war. The author has
Hardback landscape format 240 brought together a fantastic selection of unpublished high quality images with a mix of Allied and
pages Axis vehicles. It is not really surprising that there is a very wide mix of vehicles, along with some
ISBN 978-1-908032-11-9 artillery and even the odd aircraft too. It is a real visual feast with a mix of detailed close ups, overall
www.panzerwrecks.com vehicle ‘portraits’ and knocked out wrecks from both sides. There are many vehicles that are ideal
subjects for the modeller and plenty of potential diorama subjects too. Each photo has the original
Signal Corps caption printed with it along with supporting notes by the author pointing out interesting
features or unit identifications. The book concludes with a small section on the photographers who
took the pictures that feature in the book. This is really an excellent book in and out of the 266
images included in it I think only a couple were familiar. A great addition to your references for
anyone interested in WWII armour.

Panzer
The German Tanks Encyclopedia Its no easy task to produce a fresh and informative guide to German tanks but the team at
Caraktere have pulled it off with their lavishly illustrated new guide. Each vehicle has its own
By Laurent Tirone chapter with these then sub-divided into the different Ausführungs. Each Ausf. section comes
Published by Caraktére with a detailed technical specification including production run, manufacturer and even
Softback format, 192 pages, English ammunition loads. A four view colour profile is included along with archive images and a real
text. effort has been made to choose fresh and unfamiliar archive images rather than the same old
ISBN 978-2-9164030-7-6 favourites. The colour profiles are good quality but perpetuate one or two errors like the red
www.caraktere.com brown camouflage on PzAbt 505 King Tigers when archive photos show a three colour scheme.
Certain vehicles like the Panzer IV, Panther and both Tigers also have a welcome gallery of
52 multiple side view colour profiles. There is much to like about this useful reference and plenty of
new archive images to make this a worthy addition to your reference library.
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:12 Page 53

Merkava Siman 4 /
4 Lic / 4M
More Merkavas to drool over again in this the crews at work and rest in the harsh
Merkava in IDF service part 2 second part of the 4th incarnation of this conditions they operate in. Some excellent
most famous tank. Desert Eagle’s regular line drawings are also featured of items
By Michael Mass and Adam O’Brien ‘modeller friendly’ format is always such as towing mechanisms and the
Published by Desert Eagle welcome with great reference shots of both battering rams along with smaller hull and
Softback A4 format, 83 pages in-action vehicles and extensive walk- turret fittings. Another must-have release
ISBN 978-965-91635-9-5 around close ups with a wealth of detail for IDF modellers and Merkava enthusiasts,
www.deserteagle-publishing.com images. The ‘Man and Machine’ sections excellent easy to use reference.
www.aviationbookcentre.com are always interesting in this series showing

The Airbrush Company

Some excellent value releases now from whilst protecting the needle tip, a clever
The Airbrush Company. The neat little inlet valve which converts the airbrush to a
ARISM Mini compressor measures only single action (which will be ideal if you're
approximately 160x100mm and weighing new to airbrushing) and a spanner and
around 2Kg this is a very compact air cleaning brush for maintenance. This model
source which couldn't be simpler to operate, comes with a 0.4mm nozzle which is well
an on-off switch, single 1/8 BSP outlet suited to modelling paints of most types, I
fitting, pressure adjusting knob (maximum found it to spray airbrush ready acrylics with
pressure 28 psi) and handle with integral ease (using the ARISM MIni compressor)
airbrush holder. A two metre quality air hose achieving pencil-thin lines right up to around
is included. This is a maintenance free oil- an inch of spray pattern as you'd use in
less unit which can run for up to 30 minutes base colours or varnishes. A needle stop on
continuously before requiring a 10-15 the rear of the handle adjusts to allow
minute cool down. For not a great deal constant width of line The weight and feel of
more outlay, the next more powerful model this airbrush matches those of similar at two
in the ARISM range has an automatic 'on or three times the cost. A two year warranty
demand' action, moisture trap and pressure from The Airbrush Company shows a
gauge. confidence in the quality of both. I'd highly
A perfect companion then is surely this; the recommend this pairing if you're starting out
Sparmax MAX-4 airbrush. The neatly airbrushing or looking to replace your
packaged kit contains the gravity feed present set-up on a tight budget. All the
double-action airbrush with 2ml fixed cup airbrushing help you need is at
and lid, a crown cap to allow close up work www.airbrushes.com

Armour expert and super talented modeller fascinating to see how incredibly
Steve Zaloga provides a fascinating study of mechanically unreliable the T-34 was until
the best tanks of WWII. He dispels several quite late in the war and the massive combat
well established bits of tank mythology along advantage that German tanks cupolas with all
Armored Champion
the way often supported by comparative round vision gave them on the battlefield. It is
The top tanks of WWII charts and of course generously illustrated. a very entertaining and informative read and I
By Steven Zaloga The pros and cons of different tanks are found the author’s assesment of the tank ace
Published by Stackpole Books examined with chapters that deal with each Michael Wittman amusing! As he points out -
Hardback portrait format 325 Pages year of the war. Each chapter concludes with how many Aces commanded a Panzer IV or
ISBN: 978-0-8117-1437-2 the authors selection for the best tank of the Sherman? Highly recommended and
www.stackpolebooks.com year under examination. On more than one guaranteed to make you rethink your views
occasion the choice surprised me! It was on WWII armour! 53
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:12 Page 54

Tamiya 1:35 Panther Ausf.D

We were surprised to see this release from Tamiya, it doesn't seem Panther knowledge as it's a good few years since I built a 'D' from
all that long ago when Tamiya's 'G' was the Panther of choice DML's kit but from the details I do remember, Tamiya have
before the new generation of Dragon kits came to the market. The captured the features well and the kit appears all-new. Posable
early 'D' has quite a limited scope, pretty much the Panther's debut suspension is a good start to assembly and the interleaved road-
at Kursk as Tamiya's usual superb box art depicts. Tamiya really do wheels have the initial fewer bolts around the circumference, many
stick to their tried and tested formula of very build-able simplicity modellers will look to replace the single piece tracks but the detail
and good levels of detail, only five sprues are contained in the is actually pretty good and it's claimed they can be joined with
shallow box along with hull top and bottoms, single piece turret, regular plastic cement. Separate sponsons and plug-in radiator
rubber-band style tracks and the usual decals and instructions and fan housings are a good move and although the tool frames,
including colour profiles. So, nothing fancy as we expect these side skirts and brackets and finer fittings are well moulded they're
days, if you want a metal gun barrel, photoetched parts or no match for photoetched parts or even a more complex multi-
individual track links Tamiya want you to purchase these from them part design. Tamiya continue to improve the quality of their figures
separately. The moulding quality is excellent in true Tamiya tradition and the pairing offered are nicely done. Tamiya have produced
with some subtle weld beads and crisp detail throughout. What we another Panther which is sure to build in no time, while the kit will
find questionable is some of the texture suggested on the armour certainly appeal to more modest modellers due to it's simplicity,
plate, although superbly rendered would this pitting and defects be more advanced builders will be looking to add some photoetch
present on new vehicles? I'd be the first to admit to my lack of and upgrade the tracks. Thanks go to The Hobby Company,

Italeri 1:35 LMV Lince

The Italian made Iveco Light Multi-Role Vehicle is the subject of and armoured roof panel designed to fit as the interior painting
Italian manufacturer Italeri's all-new kit. Five olive coloured sprues, progresses, detailed photoetched harnesses for all the seats is a
single piece cab and cargo shells, soft vinyl tyres and a sizeable welcome detail and decals are supplied for the dashboard
photoetched fret certainly fill the box out and a quick flick through instruments. The body is a great piece of moulding with posable
the CAD drawing instruction booklet give the immediate doors and tailgate and lots of fittings such as bull-bars, winch,
impression that Italeri have really gone for it with this kit! The exhaust stacks and roof weapons stations, all with some photoetch
moulding is really sharp with some great detail throughout parts and a choice of versions. The versions offered with the
including excellent anti-slip texture and delicate checker-plate. coloured paint scheme plans are two Italian (Afghanistan) one
Although mostly covered with armoured panels, the chassis is Spanish and one Croatian with an excellent decal sheet included.
54 comprehensively detailed with the chunky coil springs and Even the vinyl tyres are really well detailed, Italeri have really shown
wishbones clearly visible on the finished model. The fully detailed what they are capable of with this kit which surely will rate as one
interior is assembled onto a single piece tub with roll-cage detail of their best.
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:12 Page 55
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/10/2015 14:18 Page 57

Modelling the M36B1 with ‘rivet-counter’ hull and transmission cover were available

O
nce U.S. forces landed in Europe
in 1944, they faced an increased accuracy is an involved project, the choice at time I started the project, they would
challenge taking on the latest of kits in 1:35 scale is essentially limited to have been my first choice.
generation of German tanks. Even the 3” Italeri and Academy, the latter was not
M10 gun proved to be ineffective in most available at the time I started this project. I wanted to leave the front hatches open
cases against Panthers and Tigers at Italeri’s kit measures rather well against the which meant I had to rebuild the interior. I
combat distances over 500 metres. The actual vehicle but it is packed with errors first scratch built the firewall with the help
pressure mounted for a more powerful and simplifications. Academy’s kit today is of plastic card and some resin bits from
anti-tank weapon, and a solution was more acceptable but it suffers from an the spares box, as was the generator. All
found by re-arming the gasoline-powered undersized turret and lots of detail errors piping was then made with Plastic rod. The
M10 A1 with the AA 90mm high velocity and inaccuracies The best way to rest of the sponson accessories were
gun accommodated in a new turret. Trials reproduce a fairly correct M36B1 is still reproduced with parts from scrap box or
were positive and the M36 Tank Destroyer cross kitting in addition to some scratch built with plastic card. As the Formations
was pressed into service. building or buying the TWS resin transmission did not sport internal details, I
conversion which was not available when I adapted an aftermarket set to it and re-
Impact on the battlefield and morale was started this project some time ago. cast it all in resin. This was not strictly
high and soon exceeded the available I studied the best doner parts and ended necessary, but, in case I wanted to tackle
M10A1 chassis. It was noted that the turret up with a Dragon M4A3 lower and upper another M4A3 interior I have 60% of the
ring diameter was compatible with the one hull, Formations Late style transmission work already done.
of a ‘standard’ M4 and a M36 90mm turret cover, AFV Club M36 Turret and Turret
was installed onto a M4A3 tank chassis for Basket, Tasca/Asuka Late Style running
trials. The vehicle was successful and the gear and hull accessories. I have to admit
conversion named M36B1. that if the Asuka Late style M4A3 upper

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The hull Floor was done with a 1mm plastic driving and radio positions. Tamiya Green Cap glue and worked with a
card piece and all ammo bin doors were It was time to close the hull and focus on blade. Small scratch built parts were the
replicated with resin sheets with the typical it’s external details. rear deep wading attachments (made with
U.S. tread pattern. The SCR 510 radio set 0.4mm plastic sheet) and front light cap
was scratch built from an existing kit base DML kit parts aren’t bad but Tasca parts holders done with 1.25mm plastic rod and
part and ultimately became a resin are far superior...so I decided to buy from etched fret chain. Don’t forget the LHS
offering from Formations. Once all the resin their site the sprue with all hull details such exhaust pipe of the auxiliary generator.
copies were glued in place, interiors were as hatches, MG Ball, vent cover and adapt
painted in white with a drop of sand to them to the DML upper hull. Etched parts Running gear was assembled as per
tone it down and the hull floor over the come from an Aber fret dedicated to M4 Tasca’s instructions. The only necessary
ammo bins was painted with Lifecolor Olive Tanks and the front fenders, as well as the improvements are the holes for bracket
Drab Faded. Details such as canisters, tools, are from Formations. attachments, some putty filling on the
seats and radio were hand painted with On the side mudguard mounts I wanted to connecting rods and tension nut caps
Lifecolor acrylics. Once dried, a wash with replicate the weld beads that kept them in made with 0.4mm plastic card and a
Burnt Sienna oils was applied as well as a position. I glued small sections of stretched punch & die.
tad of weathering with pigments to the sprue which were later softened with

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Up to now, building went pretty smoothly foundry marks. I also added the lower lip in The gun barrel was another challenge, AFV
but the turret was to prove a different front of the turret, which was missing, and Club’s barrel, while nice, cannot be used
matter! My decision was not to use numerous filling and detailing to the as it has a weird step at middle section,
Academy’s turret from their M36 kit interior. probably at the point where a post war
because of its dimensional issues, so AFV fume extractor was installed, certainly not
Club’s was the choice. Overall is an OK’ish With turret shell fixed, I turned my attention present on the WWII gun. Initially I planned
replica but the counter weight is a couple to the gun. The cradle is a nice starting to correct the barrel in the lathe but
of mm too far into the turret, making the point but needs improving, as said before, ultimately the result would have been a
overall shape odd and the interior recoil guards and gun rest are ok for post very slim tube. Unfortunately on the market
cramped. The gun cradle and recoil guards war models only. Lots of reference and there’s no option but the RB Model 90mm
are of a late style (never seen in a WWII scratchbuilding was needed including Gun for M26 Pershing. In addition to the
photos) and the gun barrel has a strange forming plastic rod (using boiled water) and fact that it sports a muzzle brake, it is also
step (post-war?) and the recoil balance is some turned aluminium rod. Small meant to fit into thicker mantle making it
missing amongst other issues. adjustments to the reinforcing ribs of gun too short! I had therefore to beef up the
cradle were also done with plastic card as rear part of gun barrel with 1cm of
I started with the turret shape correction. I well as some bolts made with a punch & aluminium rod using the lathe to blend the
needed to separate the counterweight die. The gun breech is pretty good and additional section and recreate the thicker
from upper and lower shell and add a working through the other components part of gun. For the thread protector I
spacer. Fillet pieces of plastic card were found some details to add and remove to simply lathed the RB muzzle brake making
blended with Mr. Dissolved Putty and obtain an accurate WWII set-up. The left it a cylindrical piece later threaded onto the
subsequent welding beads. Once finished recoil guard is the most complex barrel. I was lucky as everything went well
the difference is somewhat noticeable! I modification requiring re-shaping. first trial, to help with alignment of the
added a casting number on the cradle a piece of plastic rod was glued to
counterweight using Archer surface detail the end.

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The turret basket is pretty good with counterweight received their canvas
just a few details missing (some covers with Tamiya Epoxy putty, I
bolts and tank caps) and of course left one open and I added some
all the hydraulic piping. I did this turned shells for interest.
with the help of 0.40 Plastic rod and
the original user’s manual. The The final work was the tracks and
choice of plastic rod instead of stowage; tracks are from Bronco,
metal is mainly due to the fact that I pretty well designed and detailed,
have unfortunately developed a boring to cut, clean and build but
rather heavy allergy to cyano Glue not as boring as Model Kasten...to
fumes (as well as for synthetic paint that I added Panda Tracks duckbills
thinners) and therefore the less the which fitted well.
cyano the better for me...especially
here as soon after I realized that Stowage on these tank destroyers
much of work is hidden by the gun... tended to be common so I had to
never mind! find a kind of balance between
With the main turret components reality (lots of stowage) and desire
ready, I detailed interior of turret (keep most of the work visible).
with help of some Eduard photo Some rolls and bags were hung on
etched parts and more plastic card. the side rails and on the rear a
The indirect aiming device stand is selection of packs was glued
taken from Dragon’s 105mm together and partly covered with
Howitzer kit. The panoramic sight tarps made with Tamiya Epoxy
was cut away and a hole drilled in. I (quick type). To make the
was an Artillery Leader, no way that composition removable and
you would leave the sight in place if therefore painting process easier, I
it is not needed for action - far too placed a piece of cling film on the
delicate! rear deck of the M36 as the putty
Intercom system cables were done doesn’t stick to the film and it
with lead wire and some spare etch, conforms well around detail. The
the front part of turret cover need to stowage can be lifted away from
be enlarged by 0.75mm, it was the model and the cling film easily
done with some styrene strip and removed allowing the putty to set.
the gun rest hook was built from before painting.
scratch. Ready round racks in the

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As mentioned already, I am becoming more and more

sensitive to synthetic thinner vapors, this made me
change to using acrylics. I started therefore using Lifecolor
more and more and, I have to say, they are very good.
They can be used straight from the jar for excellent results
with a brush. Airbrushing was a little of trial and error, but
once I started using a 0.3 nozzle, 0.7 bar pressure and
thinned in a 1 to 3 ratio, they became a joy to use.
The base coat is done with the Lifecolor Olive drab
combo, 257 (Olive Drab deep shade) was first to be
sprayed, I then covered main parts of sloped and
horizontal surfaces with 256 (Olive Drab base colour) and
finally highlighted with 255 (Olive Drab flashed shade) the
latter had an higher thinning ratio (2 to 3) so that you can
control the highlights gradually.

I then weathered the hull behind the “moving” pigment in the areas which
boogies by using light earth tone most likely will allow dust to accumulate.
pigments mixed with flat varnish, when Do not try to do it in one go and let it dry
this was still wet I speckled the darker for at least one day before each layer.
tones especially near the bogie Once happy with dust, AK earth tone is
attachments. Now for some fun! A applied in spots to simulate a thicker,
general wash (AK Dark wash) and some wetter dirt.
dotting with oils to increase colour
shades were applied. At the end of Once finished it is easy to understand
process a friend made me aware that I’d why such contrasting colours are
applied the wrong serial number. Being needed: dust tones are very matt and
a tank destroyer the initial prefix should make the model look very dull...It is now
have been 40 instead of 30 of standard the time to make scuffs. A small flat
tanks. The good thing about dry brush and oil colours are what I prefer.
transfers is that you can scrape away Colours with olive tones and green-
very precisely and I was able to change brown tones will be fine on Olive drab,
the “3” to a “4”. but the last touch will be Van Dyke
Brown. This colour applied as a LIGHT
Weathering was then completed by dust drybrush, in my view pretty good in
application and then some scuffing of rendering that “greasy/scuffed” tone to
surfaces most likely in contact with the the colour. The only downside to this
crew or obstacles. Humbrol enamel 187, technique is that it takes at least a
AK Earth effect and a couple of oil couple of days from one application to
colours completed the dirt. I start with the next one allowing the oils to dry. A
heavily thinned Humbrol applied on the final touch was a very thinned wash with
surfaces with a round soft brush, as Orange/Naples yellow on the tracks,
soon as it starts to dry (normally after which were later rubbed with powdered
10-15 minutes) with a clean flat brush graphite. 61
moistened in thinner you can start
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/10/2015 14:18 Page 62

The base is made with a piece of balsa foam for the pavement
and a very old Lion Roar garden fence and gate I had been
waiting to use from the stash. Painting and weathering followed a
very similar procedure to the M36B1 taking care to harmonise the
colours between the vehicle and it’s surroundings.

I like to put figures near vehicles as it helps to give the proportions

and scale. My friend Fabio , much more talented than me in
painting figures, was kind enough to paint (again!) an S&T U.S.
tanker figure I had available.

All in all this was a fun project but involved a lot of work. Like
many modellers I’m guilty of keeping the occasional ‘shelf queen’
part finished for a long period of time, this M36B1 being one of
them. I’m pleased I recently revisited the project and completed
my unique Jackson.

62
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63
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/10/2015 14:18 Page 56

ACTION
JACKSON

56
AFV-85 Nov Dec 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 12/10/2015 13:16 Page 64

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