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LINE
 CONTENTS
2 Jagdpanther
We take a look at Meng’s latest 1:35 big cat.

10 Canadian Convert
Harvey Low does some stunning scratchbuilding
to produce his Canidian M113 TLAV.

20 Whizbang part two

Fabio Sacchi’s terrific T40 conversion concludes.

30 Finnish ‘54
Jari Hemila gives MiniArt’s T54 an interesting finish.

36 Panzerkampfwagen IV Part 21
The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.

46 Keeping Track
New releases.

56 End of the Line

Lukasz Orczyc-Musialek’s Scammell comes to an uncomfortable halt.

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1
 MENG’S NEW 1:35 G.1 MODELLED BY MARK NEVILLE

Meng have followed their excellent Panther A and D too as the arms all appear similar but are slightly different.
kits with the sleek Sd.Kfz.173 Jagdpanther G1. The tracks are new with this kit and very highly detailed but
Although the G1 status restricts the modeller to an earlier be prepared for time-consuming work with separate guide
tank hunter, there are four particular vehicles to choose horns to be added to each link.
from in the kit; a bit of a double edged sword as I was yet to
discover! The box art and packaging are very inviting and Skipping ahead to the finishing options, there are four
it’s hard to resist clearing the workbench to get started. cracking schemes to choose from (which doesn’t explain
Meng have shunned the ‘red primer’ styrene of some of why I didn’t choose one of them!) From France in 1944 is a
their previous German armour releases and gone with a command vehicle ‘01’ of sPzJg Abt 559 and a 654 vehicle
more mainstream sand colour which admittedly does show (with the specific tool arrangement well represented). A
the beautiful moulding to full effect. With the glut of Panther vehicle of 559 in the Ardennes campaign with the heavy
kits new to the market we’ve been trialling all of the white / brown bands and a late war 654 Jagdpanther. I’d
aftermarket track sets we can get our hands on, here we’ve found a profile in the excellent Kagero 3D Jagdpanther
used white metal individual links from a Chinese producer ‘Photosniper’ book, reference of a vehicle of
new to us, ‘R- Create Miracle’ ref. 35006D purchased on- 2./s.Pz.Jg.Abt.655 eventually destroyed in February 1945 in
line. Other than the tracks the aim here is to show what can the Kleve area of Germany. A very heavy mottle of brown
be done with what’s in the box. and green almost covering all of the dark yellow base coat
took my fancy, the book quotes that the pattern was

Plan Your Panther probably finished when the vehicle was transferred to it’s
unit. The book also provides excellent scale drawings
In the past a multi-plate hull may have caused concern with featuring the detail changes from the factories, this MNH
construction but the fit here is excellent with the added (Maschinenfabrik Niedersachsen-Hannover) produced
bonus of some delicate detail such as weld beads where Jagdpanther matches closely Meng’s option ‘4’. Admittedly
the plates join and superb torch-cut textures. The plates (and when it was too late!) I noticed that my vehicle in
overlay a subframe for a flawless fit of the main shapes. question had the extractor fan relocated to the front centre
Meng offer one of their separate working suspension and of the roof, not an option offered on Meng’s instructions, as
track sets for this kit and the instructions have call-outs long as nobody reports me to the Panther Police I may just
should you be taking this route. Suspension swing-arms are get away with it... and also I’ve changed the vehicle unit
a tight push-fit and I’d advise not using any adhesive here number to ‘231’ from ‘233’ so who knows...
2 to allow fine tuning later on, take care with part numbers
3
 The photoetched fret is nice quality and contains a
sensible selection of parts. Some die-hard detail
freaks will be sure to add their own PE tool clamps
Both single piece and two piece (later version
and all of the retaining pins and chains which make
with the lower collar) of the 88mm Pak 43 are
the Panther family surely one of the trickiest German
provided. The collar does require some cleaning
armour subjects to detail-up.
work as it’s moulded in two halves. The multi-part
Antenna is from Armorscale in machined brass.
muzzle brake is nicely done and there’s more
options covered with several mantlets.

Photoetch parts for the

schürzen hangers allow a
little battle damage. These
parts will be difficult to fold if
you don’t have a folding tool
due to their length.

As with their Panther kits, plug-in The design of the upper hull looks a
fans and radiator sections are little strange at first but provides the
provided to avoid a hollow modeller with some very satisfying
appearance. ‘click together’ fitting. The separate
plates offer sharply detailed welds
and armour interlocks.

Idlers have superb detail. The

idler mount has a peg and slot
fitting into the hull, it may be
wise to remove the peg to allow
the arm to move and fine-tune
the track tension if you’re using
aftermarket links. Wheel and sprocket detail is superb right down to the
I ran a 0.5 drill through the C-hook
nut locking tabs and small holes in the sprocket tooth
retainers and made a the angled
for attaching the track tools. In hindsight the outer of
peg from stretched sprue.
the paired road wheels would be best left loose to aid
assembly later, it’s difficult to mount the wheels
without a fair amount of wiggling due to the
interleaved nature and the tight fitting poly-caps.

Meng have made a great

job of the Bosch headlamp
which includes the wiring
conduit.

The mantlet has an excellent push-

Interior visibility is limited fit so I left the gun assembly
through the roof hatches but the removable to help with painting and
gun breach is well detailed, handling. I gave the interior a rough
certainly well enough for what’s airbrushed coat of dark grey and the
on show. The hatch in the rear gun assembly a coat of elfenbien
of the superstructure isn’t for the which highlights it when viewed
crew but in fact for the removal through the hatches.
of the main gun.
4
 A stowage box (as fitted
by some units) is provided
to sit left of the rear hatch
but not required on my
big cat.

A full selection of exhaust

configurations is offered
including the late flame
damper ‘cans’.
The photoetched schürzen armour is
The extra pipes on the left
excellent should your chosen Jagdpanther
outlet was an attempt to
require them. The aluminium gun barrel is
redirect hot airflow inside
a nice inclusion but I found the plastic
the engine bay due to the
single piece moulding easier to work with.
crew compartment
heater.

The jack is a multi-part affair

and beautifully detailed.

This kit really is a pleasure to build but I

did hit a few frustrations which were
admittedly all my own doing...I’ll never
learn that I really don’t know better than
Meng’s designers and should faithfully
follow their instructions and also check my
references before sticking parts in place.
Basics. unwanted
holes I was back on
the
Due to the different versions possible from track with only a couple of
four options are based on. In
the kit there’s various holes to drill from the suggestions to stray from the
my eagerness to progress the kit I
inside of the upper hull (mostly). You’ll need instructions; Meng provide a nice metal
basically drilled holes where they weren’t
a selection of drills (0.8mm, 0.4mm and tow cable but the instructions call for a
needed and haven’t positioned the forward
1.1mm) and I’d recommend picking your length of 108mm, to attach to the standard
right tool frame at the correct angle as per
version and work your way through the points the cable should be closer to
Meng’s instructions to replicate a MNH
instructions with a highlighter pen before 120mm. I’d also recommend leaving the
produced G1of a certain production period.
you start to avoid confusion. The more I outermost roadwheel separate (part F1)
Idiot.
dug into references it became apparent until you’re ready to do a final fit of the
that Meng have really done their research wheels and tracks as already mentioned.
With some stretched sprue to plug the
to pin-point which factory and time scale

Heavy Metal Mottle

The acrylic colours are from the Mission Models
range: Late Dunkel Gelb MMP-019, Japanese
Propeller Brown MMP-115 (has a slight purple cast
as you see in late war colour images) and Olivegrun
MMP-009. This paint sprays and adheres beautifully
using the MMP retarder (just a couple of drops) and
a touch of thinner. My reference shows very little of
the dark yellow base colour remaining.

5
 The only way to go with a Panther is to paint and weather The inner surfaces of the wheels also received a crust Here are the kit tracks; perfectly well
with the road wheels separate. I used two shades of AK of dirt and the tyres were painted using Mission ‘Old detailed but Panthers do look good with
Interactive ready to use ‘Splatter Effect’ mud (dry and tyre black’. Although there are plenty masks available metal indi-link track giving the correct
wet) to weather the lower hull followed with burnt Umber for this job I simply mount the wheels on a cotton-bud hang and appearance.
oil washes to represent grease moisture. stick and rotate them against the brush bristle.

The detail of the tracks is good although some of the Blackening agent from Solid Scale was used
guide-horn holes need cleaning-up. A neat feature is the which gives a good weathered surface. Various
brass pins which simply push into place providing a tight acrylic and pigment washes were given to the
and robust joint. The fit to the sprocket and idler is good. outside surface while the inside surface was
buffed and a touch of Ushi polishing powder
added to represent wheel contact.

To avoid handling the model at

a later stage I mounted the
wheels and tracks before
starting any paint effects and
weathering.
Note that at this point I’ve still
neglected to attach the handles
on the caps of the gun cleaning
rod tube.

The first stage of weathering was an before hand as the paint is unstable, The colour profile and a couple of and strength between different
all-over wash of ‘Light Mud’ from the actually one of the main benefits period images of the unit’s panels using mainly yellow ochre
new Wilder ‘Aqualine’ range. This allowing re-working to the desired Jagdpanthers show a slightly and burnt umber. This process
was heavily diluted with water and effect. This is also the first stage to crude application of markings really starts to bring the model to
applied with a large round brush reducing the contrast between the without a great deal of contrast. life. While the filter coat is damp a
randomly, gathering in the places camo colours and giving the slightly Brush painting was the way to go few random oil colour dots were
dust would collect. I usually use grainy look of dust as it clings to here with a dark grey and tinted added and dragged to suggest
Designer’s water based Gouache for vehicles in the field. Note how the white. Next I applied some oil rain marks and dirt. Some of the
this process, remember any water- subtle cast textures and finer details paint filters (really just tinted dry mud texture was added to the
slide decals have to be applied begin to be emphasised. enamel thinners) varying the tone wheels.

6
 Next comes one of the most effective ways to enhance detail, dark
‘pin’ washes. This isn’t really weathering as such but adding a
contrast around fine details. There’s plenty of ready-to-use washes
in various colours available which work a treat, as does good old
fashioned diluted oil paint and fine pointed brush; burnt umber and
lamp black work well on German three-tone camo for me. I’ll usually
add pin washes while the surface is still damp from the filter stage
as it helps the flow and it’s handy to have a clean dry brush to hand
(usually between my teeth!) to soak away any excess paint.

I went back and forth with the washes and filters until I was happy More of the dry mud effect was applied to
with the effects. the hull. The splatter effect of the mud
thrown from the tracks is easily achieved by
loading an old brush and giving it a blast of
air from the airbush in the right direction.

The effect of the dark

washes are evident here
on the wheel detail. Note
the polished finish on the
rim of the inner road
wheels added with a soft
pencil also used on the
idler and sprocket teeth.

The spare track links were left

in the finish provided by the
blackening fluid, polished with a
stiff hogs’ hair paintbrush.
Edges of some of the details are
highlighted with the base colour
dunkelgelb giving the effect of the
camo colour being worn away.

Meng provide vision blocks and sights

(including an optional open scissor
scope) in clear styrene. I masked the
lenses and applied green drawing ink
to tint them.

The delicate weld and torch-

cut edge detail is highlighted
by running a soft pencil
across the surface.

Wood grain effect was achieved

by a dark yellow acrylic base coat
followed by raw sienna and burnt
umber oil colours allowed to
partly dry and dragged with a stiff
bristled brush.

War time images of Panthers often show

hubs damp with fluid leaks. Lifecolor
‘dirty grease effect’ acrylic was used Uschi Van Der Rosten ‘Dark
here. Steel’ polishing powder
applied by finger gives a
Scratching and bare metal are easily added discoloured appearance to the
with a sharp soft pencil, much easier and muzzle and soft metallic
more realistic than using metallic paint and sheen. This method was gently
a brush. The ‘C’ hook shows polished metal, applied to the various cast
oxidised metal and the vehicle’s red primer. textures.
A small piece of sponge is handy to apply
these random speckles and abrasions.

7
 A quick search through our stock of sample The figure (35026) is actually a Waffen method at the moment for a quick-
figures turned up a D-Day Miniatures figure SS tanker so a few tweaks were turnaround on figures is a black
that fitted the bill. Pawel Krasicki is the required to the insignia. He has a airbrushed base coat followed by
talented sculptor of this excellent range of veteran look of a commander towards ‘directional light’ airbrushed in white
resin figures from Poland the end of the war with liberated hand from above giving a good basis for the
(http://www.ddayminiaturestudio.com) gun and winter trousers. His pipe was following thin coats of acrylic colours.
made from stretched sprue with the Between two and three hours painting
bowl on the end created while the and he was ready to pose in the open
plastic was still soft. My favoured hatch.

8
This is another very enjoyable kit from Meng and long awaited Bergpanther, there’s sure to be a
an important addition the Panther family. I hope bit of a ‘feeding frenzy’. We’d recommend
you’ll agree that the levels of detail and accuracy getting this kit on your list, even a couple with
straight from the box are something we could the options available from the box and the great
only have dreamed of in the past. Go for some value price.
aftermarket photoetch for the tool fittings and
the spare track holders with their painful little
retaining chains and you’ll have a real showpiece
on your hands. With suddenly so many new kits
to choose from for Panther fans, even the very

9
 HARVEY LOW’S CANADIAN M113
In use since 1962, the venerable M113 has seen its share of up replacing the hull with the Academy M113. Everything else was
fighting since the Vietnam War. The Canadian Army has used the mostly scratch-built (about 85% and 1000 parts), including the
M113 since the mid-sixties. The most modern variant, called the entire slat and bar armour assemblies. This model represents one
TLAV (Tracked Light Armoured Vehicle), was developed as part of of the early vehicles fitted only with the side bar armour circa 2010
the upgrade to the Canadian M113 inventory during a life in Kandahar.
extension program in 2000. While based on the stalwart M113A2,
the TLAV saw upgrades through the installation of unique drive In the absence of scale plans
sprockets and idlers designed for the new Canadian-made Soucy The first step in any major scratch-building project are good
rubber tracks; a modified One Metre Grizzly Turret; redesigned hull references! These are vital for making new parts. At the time of
surfaces with anti-slip; and a unique slat and bar-armour system planning this project, I could not find any scale plans of the TLAV,
designed only for this type of vehicle. This retrofit was purposeful but plenty of personal photos! The TLAV is a modified M113 so the
as a fast option to make best use of this old workhorse given the overall dimensions were not a problem. I am however, grateful to
escalating situation in Afghanistan. These vehicles served as Anthony Sewards (expert on modern Canadian Forces Armour
infantry support (not APC), base security, and convoy escort in subjects) for documentation he provided to me on the bar armour
Afghanistan as early as 2007. They are no longer in service, and a details and placement, and Ying Louie for walk-around photos. In
number of TLAVS have apparently been set aside for museums the absence of scale plans for these details, I had to rely on
and base displays, or parts provided to regimental museums for photos as the primary reference, for any new parts I wanted to
TLAV restorations. make. I had to rely on a "conversion factor" to determine the
dimensions for each new part. Here's how the conversion factor
The Model works.
After searching the web for conversion kits, I bought the 1/35 Best
Value set at Azimut Productions while there in Paris. However I With the photo of the subject at hand (preferably a photo that is
eventually used only a few parts due to softer details. I could not not distorted or taken at an angle), take a handful of measures
easily convert any existing M113 kit, as the surface details, hatch (around four or five) of any parts on the vehicle in the photo (e.g., a
openings, and rear ramp door are very different. I used the turret wheel, side skirt), and the equivalent part on the actual kit.
from Best Value but that was heavily cut and modified too. I ended
10
 TRACKED LIGHT ARMOURED VEHICLE

For each measurement, take the kit part measurement and divide
1:35
the photo. For example, if you want a stowage box in a photo, and
it by the photo part measurement. For example, if a kit wheel part the photo dimensions of that box are 3mm tall x 5mm wide, then
measures out at 10.5mm, and the same wheel in the photo multiply these numbers by the conversion factor to get the scaled
measures out at 5mm, the factor would be 10.5 divided by 5 = measurements (e.g., 3mm x 2.1mm = 6.3mm tall, and 5 x 2.1 =
"2.1". After you have taken a few such measures on different 10.5mm wide)! If you use a different photo, you will have to re-
parts, average them out for a single conversion factor. Now to calculate these factors. Scale does not matter when using this
make a new part, simply take this factor and multiply it by the technique as you are generating your own ratios.
measurements you take of the new part you want to build from

11
 The resin roof supplied by Best Value came
badly warped (not uncommon in limited run
kits). I immersed it in boiling water for a few
seconds, bending back to shape. I then
added thick styrene shims to the backside to
brace it and keep its shape. Chinchila cage sand makes excellent anti-slip
texture. Areas are masked and 5 minute epoxy
applied. The sand is sieved through a stocking
prior to sprinkling over the surface.

From the "Ground up" To provide for a solid fit, I added an underside lip to allow the part
Any scratch-building project must start with a solid foundation. In to mate securely to the hull roof. The TLAV also had applique
the case of armour subjects, the hull dimensions are your main side-armour plates added to the sides and front of the vehicle.
foundation. The hull therefore MUST be: 1) accurate and to scale; These were made from templates and added to the side hull using
and 2) dimensionally true and proportional. If the hull is not to .015 styrene.
scale, the addition of figures or stowage will look out-of-sale. If the
hull is not proportionally true (e.g., one side of the hull is slightly Proper Wheel Alignment
longer than the other), then the model will be misaligned! I decided to mate the Revell M113 wheels to the Academy hull,
because the TLAV spare wheel from Best Value were close to the
For this project I used the lower hull of the Academy M113 as a Revell pattern. As such, I had to scratch-build new sprocket and
good "foundation". The only minor issue were the underside of the idler mounts. I also had to mate the Revell road wheels and their
Academy hull holes (motorized?) that had to be filled with styrene small axles separately to the Academy hull. This meant challenges
sheet of proper thickness, cut to size, and then puttied over. Any with alignment and proper ground to hull clearance. I therefore
parts added to this hull that were not part of the original kit, have used "jigs" that to ensure straight alignment and proper ground
to be aligned properly. To ensure correct alignment of the rear height. The first jig is simply taping thin strip styrene shims to a flat
ramp, I used shims around the Best Value rear door that were hard surface (I used the reverse side of a mirror), and using these
then removed when the resin part positioned. as alignment guides for the road wheels to make sure they are
straight. The second "jig" was to tape thicker shims to the
The TLAV had significantly different hull features as well as added underside of the model hull itself, to ensure consistent wheel to
armour. I decided to build up portions of the side walls using .020 ground clearance and to make sure all wheels properly "touch the
styrene sheet, while kit-bashing the Best Value rear ramp door, ground". Using a slow-setting glue (5 Minute epoxy), I then placed
front glacis plate and portions of the hull roof and substituting the the model on this surface allowing the wheels to cure while they
crew access hatch and hinges with Academy parts. I retained the are properly aligned.
upper roof forward vent area using the Revell M113 part.

12
The turret is based on a modified Best Value 1m
turret but with a new raised base, re-cut rain guards,
and new commander's periscope details, and hatch
interior padding. Other details include a new The TLAV turrets were upgraded with 76 mm Wegmann multi-
barrel grenade dischargers with add-in armour plates. The
headlamp guard & wiring; new headlamp lens (Scale
turrets were fitted with a .50 Calibre machine gun and a C6
Hobby Accessories; smoke dischargers (Leopard 7.62 mm machine gun and image intensification night light.
Workshop #LW-027A).
Long wire tie-downs are from Djiti Production
(#35002) and add those tiny details that make any
model stand out. Note the turret details including
new scratch-built mounted wire cutters and lift
hooks. There are about 80 parts alone to the turret.

There are numerous modifications to the hull.

Modifications most visible include, the large rear fuel
tanks (Best Value), front armour and stowage rack
(scratch), and rear ramp door. Other details include a
modified smaller rear top crew hatch, antenna
structures, ECM wiring, with aerials from BMK (#352).
Headlight assembly is comprised of Best Value photo-
etch headlight covers, combination of Academy and
best Value lamps, and lenses from SKPModel (#SKP-
124). Other details include photo-etch grills (Eduard),
rear-view mirror mount and mirror (scratch-built), anti-
slip surfaces, and the fuel/water containers and their
mounting brackets.

13
 The TLAV Bar Armour System armour hull bracings. These were drawn on paper and glued to
Three steps were involved in this scratch-building stage: 1) the foam core board. The bracings themselves were made from
hull bracing strips used to mount the brackets; 2) the separate segments of .015 styrene strips to represent the complicated web
brackets that hold the bar armour; and 3) the bar armour itself, of metal bracing (which was also a different pattern on each side
including the lower armour plates. The TLAV had a unique "bar contrary to the Best Model conversion set!). The plastic strips were
armour" system added to protect from RPG type projectiles. These glued onto the paper plans using PVA glue, and then glued to
were added on the sides first and then around the front and rear each other with tube styrene glue. When dry, I immersed this
of the vehicle later on. This armour system was very different to whole assembly in water to dissolve the white glue and separate
slat or bar armour used on other vehicles. the bracing from the foam board. This was one of the most
Since no after market set is available and I could not use any complicated builds I have ever done (around 400 pieces alone to
existing M113 bar armour, I had to scratch-build the entire armour the bar armour)! The resulting delicate bracing was then glued to
system. Using photos and references provided by Anthony the hull sides on top of the applique armour. Tiny holes were
Sewards, I made side plan profiles with the location for the bar drilled in as markers for the location of the individual brackets.

Now that the bracing was in place, I proceeded to make

the individual mounting brackets. These brackets are not
uniform in shape and are very complex in design. They
were made with Evergreen strip (#119) plus #292 "L"
beams in .015. They would be attached later to each bar
armour sub-assembly (as opposed to the bracings), to
make it easier to position when fixing the bar armour to the
hull later on.

14
Finally, the bar armour system was next. Notice that there are many sub-
assemblies which are separately attached to the bracing, with connecting
U-bolts to secure each assembly to each other. I had to make a jig to make
sure that each bracket was made in the same manner and dimensions.
These photos show completed sub-assemblies with the corresponding
brackets installed.

Photographs by
Anthony Sewards

15
 Soucy Rubber Tracks
The arrival of the Sling-Shot Models (#SSM35008)
soucy tracks could not have been better timed! Up
to that time, the only tracks were the Best Value
Models, but these had production issues, fit
problems around the sprockets, and were soft in
detail. The Sling Shot tracks fit nicely with little work.

Rubber tracks and unique drive sprocket and idler on the real
TLAV. They dramatically reduce the noise and vibrations, and
increase the M113A3?s mobility.

Photographs by
Ying Louie

Painting & Weathering

All TLAVS had limited markings. Some had tactical chevrons with
a few sporting black maple leaf insignias but little else. All
Canadian Forces vehicles deployed to Afghanistan went in their
original colour schemes. This included NATO three tone schemes
for vehicles such as the Taurus ARV or "olive" green for Leopards
and Coyotes etc. TLAVS were sent in olive green. While photos
suggest they are were "tan" in colour, this is due to the harsh
conditions of sand that stuck to "everything" giving that
appearance! My model is painted and weather based on photos
of deployed vehicles.

The basic painting sequence is as follows:

1 Base Primer: Tamiya Gray Fine Surface Primer to cover different

construction materials.
2 Paint Primer: Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer to set the
foundation for subsequent coats.
3 Base Coat: Tamiya Spay Can AS-24 (Dark Green Luftwaffe).
4 Base Camo Colour: Canadian Forces Army Green is Tamiya
XF67 (Nato Green) + XF65 (Field Grey) + XF81 (Dark Green) +
XF62 (Olive Drab) in a ratio of 2:1:1:5
5 Modulation: Darkest recesses are CF Green mix + Black (XF-1);
Shadow areas are CF Green mix + XF27 (Black Green); Lighter
areas are CF Green mix + XF57 (Buff); and Lightest highlights are
CF Green mix + more XF57 (Buff).
6 Glaze Flat Filter Coat: Model Master Acryl Flat with few drops of
MM Acryl Olive Green (acts a protective coat for subsequent
enamel washes).
7 Lower Hull Dirt Coat: Flat Earth XF-52 misted on in thin coats.

16
Weathering was accomplished first by simulating the dried caked-
on mud typical of vehicles in this theatre of war. This was done
using the hair spray (HS) technique. I use HS right out of the spray
can (not decanted). I used Tresemme brand on this model. I then
sprayed a variety of tan and light brown colours from the Tamiya
line. Tip: Apply Tamiya Retarder to the paint and spray lighter
thinned coats using thinned warm water and onto a gloss surface.
This makes it easier to scrub the paint off later, using a variety of
tools from sponges, to toothpicks, and hard bristle brushes. Apply
HS in sections. The HS technique can thus be used to apply mud
as well as camouflage colours!
Filters were primarily from the MIG and Wilder line, and mostly dirt
brown and tan colours. They were applied lightly and then spread
out with thinner for more controlled effect. Dry powders were next,
applied to a flat surface and then using thinner to spread the
powered dust around - again mostly shades of
tan. No heavy mud was applied due to the
desert conditions. This is all finalized with
mud splatter effects.

The tracks were painted Tamiya Dark

Grey (XF-24), and then coated with
a heavy dark grey-black wash using
Windsor Newton Oils. I then
applied lighter washes in tan
colour for sand and dirt
accumulation. Remember the
Soucy tracks are rubber so there
will be no metal scruff marks or
rust! The drive sprocket and
idlers were also painted this way
as they were rubber assemblies
too!

My own mix of oil stains is a mix of Tamiya Clear Orange (X-26), + Stowage straps were from .2x1.5mm lead UMM-USA foil. Paper
Clear Green (X-25) plus a few drops of Tamiya Earth (XF-52) in varying ration boxes, other stowage are from Legend. The cadpat camo
ratios. I also add a few drops of MIG and AK enamel-based oil, fuel, pattern on the packs and figure uniform are from FFSMC
and grease stains to further compliment. Productions Decals!

17
 The commander figure is the
Canadian Tank Commander
from Black Dog Models #35014).
The arid cadpat uniform is the
FFSMC Productions decal.

18
 Wonder what those water bottles
attached to the aerials are for? Canadian
Forces used these as night identification
markers. They are simply water bottles
affixed to aerials with a glow-stick inside!

Photographs by Anthony Sewards

Conclusions
The model has about 1000 parts and took just
under a year of ongoing work. While I have done
many scratch-building projects, the bar armour
assembly was by far the most complicated I
have ever tackled due to its complexity. I really
enjoyed the build and adding this unique vehicle
to my collection – even better that I got it done
before a major manufacturer beat me to it! In
the end, I support my efforts paid off as this
model humbly won the 2018 AMPS Judges
Choice Award and honoured that I was bestowed
that award.

19
 PART TWO
FABIO SACCHI’S
TERRIFIC T40
Last issue we saw the
modified hull completed,
this time the serious
work starts with the
turret and rocket
launcher consruction.

20
1:35

21
 PLASTIC PUZZLE

I started in reproducing the rails floors styrene glue and it does not create a protection which was operated by tank
which were full of lightening holes. I cut to strong bond, once completely dry its crew. The lower part was engaged with an
size 8 pieces of plasticard of 0.25mm enough to use the tip of a scalpel to actuator and upper part was connected to
thickness. They were then taped together detach the glued parts. lower one through geared sidewalls. I had
with adhesive tape and with my mimill I cut With all the rail walls ready they were then to think a little more about how to
the rows of holes. These floor pieces were glued on previous made floor pieces and reproduce the geared sides as these ones
then cut in half and paired three by three the two ‘packs’ of 10 rails each was ready. where quite evident in photos. Initially I
and put aside. Each pack was then glued with considered using a gear from a clock
cyanoacrylate glue to box sides and then mechanism. Unfortunately the plastic used
That was the easy part - the rail vertical top and bottom. Final result is a box as per for these gears does not react with any
walls were then just vertical strips welded photos, but with inside 20 launch rails. glue making them impossible to use. I
onto short horizontal strips like a ladder decided to create my own gear. I cut from
and so the fun started. I cut 80 0.4 x 0.75 I started then detailing the system by a 0.4mm styrene sheet a disk of 15mm
ministrips as long as a rail length and using adding retaining lugs for the rockets and diameter which was fixed on a minidrill
a non-stick Poly Propylene plate as base, contactors (that’s the US English definition shaft. It was then fixed into a lathe parting
they were connected two by two by gluing in the ’45 tech manual). Folding covers for tool and with my minimill with and angle
7 pieces of 0.4 x 0.75 ministrips with electrical wiring were then cut by 0.40mm milling cutter I cut all the teeth around disk.
Tamiya liquid cement. plasticard and added to rear of box.
The Poly Propylene plate does not react to The front opening of the box had a folding

I had then to just cut the right portion and Dragon’s M4A1DV early turret is nice (I this made the inaccuracies mostly
glue it to the front protection. personally think that this is the best Dragon irrelevant. The first thing I did was to notch
With the box constructed I turned my M4 kits), however it has some not entirely the turret antenna pot. It was actually torch
attention to turret. As I said, I initially correct details such as an undersized cut to allow for higher system elevation,
planned to use a leftover from another ventilator dome and a slightly crude after that I started to scratch the launcher
project without a turret, I had to therefore Commander’s cupola. However most of support system.
use a Dragon turret from the scrapbox. this would be covered by the launcher and

22
TESTING TURRET
They are two jettison rollers on the top of adding 5 wires I saved from used guitar and for the T40 deployed in Italy a field
turret roof and four attachment points at strings. modification was studied. Actually three
the turret rear sides. I started by lathing the Both ‘S’-shaped launcher support brackets flaps were welded around gun opening on
jettison rollers and rear lower support are made out Evergreen ministrip, as well the mantlet and the original bracket was
brackets. All these ones were then coupled as all the jettison actuators and welded on top. This allowed the main gun
with styrene pieces. For the shape and compensation spring attachments. The to recoil and to be used if needed.
size, the T40 Manual was very useful here compensators themselves are a 1.5mm All the system was made out Evergreen
as well as in making the upper rear styrene rod with copper wire to mimic the ministrip. Once place I reproduced all the
brackets. These ones were two torch-cut spring. welds (which from the available photos
pieces of steel, welded to turret on one All bolts in the kit are from the MENG nuts looked like very crude and shiny). I used
side. On the opposite side they have two and bolt sets. Probably one of the best and stretched styrene softened with Tamiya
retaining brackets. The rear one is most assorted range, extremely useful if Green Cap and worked with a Swann
pivotable, as it would allow the full system you need these kind of details! Morton no.10 blade. The antenna mast
to be jettisoned if needed. The launcher elevation used the gun was repositioned on turret side on a “U”
All firing commands and hydraulic power elevation and initially it worked through a beam steel arm. The Antenna Mast is so
for the actuators (both for front protection bracket fixed on gun tube. Soon it was visible I opted for the Japanese firm Adler
and jettison system), were connected from realised that this hindered fire with the gun Nest part offer. Its a gorgeous little kit in
inside the tank to the outer itself and worth the money!
system through the Loader’s
periscope mount.
I made this by placing a
suitable piece of ministrip
instead of the periscope and

23
 OLIVE BRANCH
I want to make a short introduction. used the LIFECOLOR set for Olive Drab number. It is possible that it was covered
Referencing Bob Holt’s words, the 752nd (UA255, UA256, UA257). This helped in by dust or even painted over during the
TB, like the other independent tank recreating a kind of distressed vehicle overhauling process. I decided to opt for a
battalions in the MTO, generally received paint. It was enough to increase the areas “possible serial number” this was obtained
used vehicles. That means they were covered with the “flashed shade” (UA257). by referencing production batches in “Son
already in the field for a while and in most Photos showed that “BEDSORES” had Of Sherman” book. It seems that some of
cases with expected signs of wear and black camo on it. To make the stripes I marking were hand-painted by crew and
tear. Fields workshops brought them back used LIFECOLOR UA723 as base (a nice “BEDSORES” was no exception to this
to operational status but of course this worn black). For the highlight I added a few practice, as well as the big numbering on
resulted in little standardisation in the drops of tan colour. turret rear and on some TD speed
vehicles types and also in unit markings. In The launcher was then base painted with a numbers. To simulate crew hand painting, I
contrast, the T40 Launchers had little different LIFECOLOR OD shade “US Army hand painted the black outline of rear big
operational life, actually just some training Olive Drab 1704. Some highlights were “35” and I retouched some of the other
in UK, before they were dismounted from then added with Faded Olive Drab type 2 numbers with white. The “BEDSORES”
tanks in UK prior to D-Day and sent to Italy. 1704. The contrast between the two parts name was made by Archer transfer
This means that it was possible already to of the tank at this point is quite stark but it lettering. After another coat of Vallejo
create a contrast between a well worn tank would be toned down with weathering. semigloss to protect delicate dry transfers
and a semi-pristine launcher. After a thin coat of Vallejo semigloss, I the weathering could start.
applied the decals. For these I used Archer
To replicate different wear, I used different dry transfers. From the photos it is not
hues of Olive Drab. For the tank itself I possible to make out the tank serial

24
First of all a pin wash with AK brown wash for green was used
to give better detail enhancement. After that I took some time
to reproduce the rust appearance of the unpainted steel plates
that were used to make the supports. To do that I used
LIFECOLOR RUST SET. These colours were applied by brush
and with different rates of dilution.

With some shades of black and grey I then simulated the burnt
paint and “cooked metal” near welding areas. As a last touch
all the welds were painted with Vallejo Metallic Chrome.
This gave a very sharp and eye-catching contrast.

Dust and Earth was then added starting from lower hull. This
process was made before fixing the bogies to hull. It consisted
in a first wash of Humbrol “Sand”. Once dried I applied MIG
dried mud effect. Once everything was very well dry I applied
darker shades of AK Earth effect wash. I then assembled
running gear and started the overall dusting.
An initial wash of Humbrol “Sand” and, once well dried and
working on limited areas, I added AK dust deposits effects.
All three shades were applied in spots. I actually like these
products a lot although a lot of patience and care is needed:
less is more!

The launcher is a quite fragile assembly I had therefore to be

very cautious in using solvent-based colours as they may
cause some unwanted warping. For this reason it received
some acrylic washes of dust/rust and black from LIFECOLOR
liquid pigments range and a very restrained quantity of AK
Dust deposits on the roof.
Splillages and oils dots are LIFECOLOR OIL effect from their
Tensocrom range. Each of them was then just filled with some
Burnt Humber Oil colours. The gun Barrel was also darkened
with Van Dyke Brown oil. Actually also from photo (one original
colour photo!) it clearly showed that gun barrel is clean and
darker than rest of vehicle. This may be due to the fact that the
heat of firing somehow “cooks” the paint.
Tracks are weathered with LIFECOLOR Dust and Vallejo Yellow
Ochre pigments. Mixed together and fixed with Vallejo Acrylic
thinner. The rocket exhaust stains were obtained with Brown
and rust shades from Liquid Pigments LIFECOLOR range.

25
26
LITTLE ITALY

I wanted to depict a typical hill/mountain road in Tuscany area. One typical

element is “dry stone” containing wall. This type of construction was very
popular in pre war construction as it required very simple “ingredients” but
very skilled manpower. This part is a resin cast element I created some
years ago. The master was made with a layer of Kid Clay on which I put
small sized stones that IKEA sells as decoration kit. After having poured
silicone on it I had a long-life mould for stone walls. The side road pillars
and road sign comes from Model Victoria range.

SARGE
After some great chats with Bob Holt, I tried to understand how to create a
small figure of Sgt Raymond Holt (BEDSORES Tank Commander and
Bob’s Father). I had two photos of Sgt Holt and I decided to use the body
of an Alpine Tanker, while head was chosen from spare parts box to be as
close as possible and then it was slightly modified to mimic the haircut he
had in the photos. It was then a task for my friend and great master
painter Pino Ortolani who took on the challenge of painting it as close as
possible to the photo. Once Pino completed the figure I sent it to Bob and
he was kind enough to confirm that it was reasonably near to the reality
(thank you again Bob).

In the end it was a great project and quite unusual for me. It was quite
different while I was finishing the model thinking of the stories and
memories that Bob shared about his Father life in Italy during that
Campaign. That’s why I tried my best to make it exactly as it was in the
only colour photo available. A small tribute to the memory of all these boys
whose sacrifice contributed to liberating Italy.

27
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 JARI HEMILA
MAKES A FEW TWEAKS TO
M I N I A R T ’ S T - 5 4 T O C R E AT E A

1:35

Miniart, the Ukrainian model factory is steadily working through the dark green colour over with white, washable chalk paint. My
T-54/55 family in injection moulded plastic kits. Their approach is reference photos show only the vertical surfaces of the hulls and
much more complicated compared to some other manufacturers turret were painted with chalk paint.
but offers modellers much more detailed results than ever before. The assembly was quite easy by closely following kit instructions,
You can build a very well detailed model straight out of the box, extra care was needed due to complex design of the kit. These
but they require a little more patience and care with amazing Miniart kits are designed for modellers with some experience who
results! demand high levels of detail. Some extra work was needed to
both select the right parts for my Finnish version and when
I decided to build the Finnish T-54 with three-tone splinter camo assembling, some tiny parts were difficult to place and glue
as seen in early 1990's. At this time, all Finnish T-54 tanks were because their size. I started the project using kit 37019 T-54 B as
equipped with infantry phone boxes attached to the hull rear wall a base but lots of parts, turret, rear deck etc., were borrowed from
and the original loader's 12.7 mm DshK-H anti-aircraft machine their newer 37021 Tiran 4 sH kit. The Tiran kit in fact includes all
gun was replaced with the NSV 12.7mm. The model presents a the required parts so it can be turned into the Finnish T-54 m1951
Reserve Officer School tank Ps-261-15 with typical Finnish splinter model without any kit bashing. Kit tracks are very detailed but I
winter camouflage as seen in December 1989. The Finnish way, always prefer to use Friul white metal individual links for their
even nowadays, is to paint all light green areas and half of the overall look and durability.
30
31
 MiniArt’s T-54 and T-55 series produce superb
results straight from the box and a huge range of
versions are available, also with full interiors.

The paint work starts by airbrushing all periscopes The model is first primered with black Ammo One The model was first painted with Finnish Dark
with a Tamiya Clear green transparent paint shot primer. These primers work nicely, all you Green AN11, for this I used Ammo Forest green. I
letting them dry overnight. When totally dry, the need to do is shake them well and then airbrush mainly use these Ammo paints as they are very
periscopes are masked with pieces cut from directly from the bottle without thinning. I easy to airbrush, only a little of their thinner is
masking tape. The driving light is masked with recommend you let the primer dry overnight. It's needed, if any, but the main advantage is their
Maskol fluid. recommended to paint thin layers first on bare suitability with hairspray technique.
surfaces, allow to dry for 5 minutes and then
continue with thin layers until the surface is totally
covered.

The second camo colour is matt black AN44. I

The first camo colour is a Light green AN22, Ammo's substitute is Pale green. It's nearly perfect for masked the required areas then airbrushed the
modern vehicles, but in the early 80's the light green had a cast of brown-grey. Light green will be black. You must be very careful to avoid too much
overpainted with whitewash, so it was not so important with this project. At first, I planned to handpaint overspray. Due to the complex splinter camo and
the camo, but decided to mask the ‘splinter’ with masking tape. fragile details all areas were not totally covered
with masking tape.

32
After removing the masks there were some over- The decals were applied next. I used Echelon's
sprayed areas which needed to be repainted. It set for Finnish T-72s taking the registration The winter camo was applied with a paintbrush
was an easy task because all paints were used markings for Ps261-15. The cockades came from directly from the bottle. This way you get random,
straight from the jar. Ammo paint dries with a their Finnish Sturmi set. On late 1980's vehicles realistic results, just like the real vehicles which are
slightly satin finish, the model was airbrushed with cockades were still painted on in four places. With painted in the same way. After the white was
Ammo Satin ‘Lucky Varnish’, directly from the help of Tamiya's Mark fit, decals were applied on complete the whole model was satin varnished
bottle to prepare for the next stage. surfaces nicely. After decals were dry, they were
sealed with couple of thin layers of satin varnish.

The next step is to add washes. My method is to

add harsh pin washes to pick up details and then
after it has dried for around 10 minutes, clean any
The bright white-wash areas received a grey filter to add tonal variation. Other darker areas excess with a make-up sponge moistened with just a
have a dirty brown filter. When applying filters, remember not to flood areas, only a thin layer drop of enamel thinner, leaving wash only on
is enough. If required, and the previous layer has dried overnight, you can add a second layer recessed areas and shadows. You can also use a
for more contrast. clean paint brush for this purpose around small
details.

The weathering starts by adding some

dusty enamel washes on areas were dust
accumulates, like in corners and around
raised details. Light dust was is applied
with a small paintbrush by a tapping
motion and allowed to dry for a couple of
minutes. With a bigger round paintbrush,
moistened with fresh enamel thinner,
dusty areas are feathered into the
surrounding colours.

The dusting continues, now with pigments. I used

three pigment tones, light Europe dust for dry, light
dust and darker tones both for shadowed areas and
areas which will be moistened. The pigments are
applied with a small paintbrush, try to avoid blending
different tones together, this way you get more
interesting results avoiding one solid colour.

The pigment is now fixed with a few drops of enamel thinner.

It’s essential avoid touching pigmented areas much with a
paintbrush, it easily leaves unwanted marks on pigmented
areas. After the thinner is evaporated and dry the excess is
removed by sweeping surfaces with a dry make-up pad
leaving pigments only on areas were dust is realistically
accumulated.

33
 To add more earth tones and variation to the Roadwheels and tracks were weathered next, as with a less diluted mixture of Loose ground giving
weathering, some ground colour splashes were well as the lower hull. Adding heavy mud was us some texture and appearance of older dry
applied by thinning Ammo's ‘Loose ground’ with easy to do. At first, road, idler and sprocket mud. After the speckling effect was totally dry,
enamel thinner, one part Splashes and 3 parts of wheels were had dry mud applied, with enamel some ‘Heavy earth wet mud’ was added with an
thinner, and then speckling it with stiff, short thinner to dilute the ‘Loose ground’ mixture. After old paint brush and then put aside and let dry.
bristle paintbrush. When these tiny drops are dry, the first layer was dry, some speckling was done The lower hull received the same mud treatment.
they leave us realistic dusty surfaces combining
both areas were dust collects with cleaner areas.

The Friul tracks were washed and when dry, allowing the tracks to dry again some wet mud
primered with Red Oxide One shot primer. was applied and left quite heavy in some areas.
The tracks got nearly the same treatment as When finished the tracks were set aside to dry
wheels, except some dusting was done with overnight before being handled again.
pigments. I used three tone of pigments again,
applying different colours randomly along the The contact areas of both outer and inner faces
tracks to give some extra tonal variation. The were simply sanded with piece of sandpaper to
pigments were fixed with some enamel thinner reveal bare metal underneath. This is one of white
and set aside to dry. metal tracks' main advantages. The tracks were
now ready to be attached to the model, this
The weathering continued by flicking some ‘Loose moment always brings an armour model to life!
ground’ thinned slightly with enamel thinner to get
more uniform and realistic look on tracks. After

With the tracks in place it was time for the final

touches of detailed weathering.

Darker pigments are now applied on areas where

fuel and oil stains would be. The ‘Dark earth’ is
applied on certain spots with a small paintbrush
and this time fixed with mixture of ‘Fresh oil effect’
and enamel thinner. When this mixture is added to
pigments, it absorbs quickly leaving cool looking
oily, dusty marks. You can add more Fresh oil but
this needs to be done in several layers to control
the effect. Too much oil at once will leave
unwanted marks and give an unrealistic effects.
The fresh Engine oil can be combined with Fresh
mud effect too. This way we can add some
realistic fresh, wet mud on areas we want. The
best results can be achieved by mixing oil and
mud in 1:1 ratio. Let the effect dry and add more
layers until you are happy with results. This mixture
completed the mud work both on hull, wheels and
tracks.

The final step is to apply some water marks. This is

done with a fine paintbrush and ‘Water effect’
straight from the bottle. This again is best built-up
in thin layers to vary the gloss effect for a realistic
look. All of these thin layers reflect the effect of
nature on a vehicle which has spent some time in
the field with dirt building up day by day.

34
I want to thank Mr Jukka Purhonen for his
assistance with references and giving
technical support for building this model.
We can call this beautiful kit from MiniArt
finally ready and fully ‘Finnished’!

35
 Panzerkampfwagen
David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit Part Twenty One

Fitting out the front of the hull continues in this installment with the spend time to piece together the routing of the assorted pipes and
installation of the brake drums and the associated steering cables that powered the instrument dials which was not easy to
controls. My plan was to leave the complete transmission do. With instrument dials making an attractive souvenirs every
assembly as a stand alone part for as long as possible so that the preserved vehicle has a stripped out instrument panel or suspect
various cables that are attached to it could be easily installed. I modern replacement. There are a pair of cable conduits fitted to
also needed to construct the Driver’s instrument panel which is the transmission which I had to add but most of the feeds for the
mounted on top of the transmission. Along with this I also had to instrument panel just hang loose from the back of the panel.

2
1

There appears to be some variation in the colours of the steering brakes and Before fitting the brake drums the clutch control rod 1 was fitted, not without
the Elefenbien ivory and grey were certainly possibilities but in the end I went difficulty, to the rest of the mechanism under the driver’s seat. The steering
with red oxide as the colour I felt most comfortable with for the likely control lever and its associated linkages 2 which run under the gearbox were
production date of my vehicle. Moving details were picked out in steel and the fitted to the hull floor using the scribed lines in the hull floor that I had added
drum was dry fitted into the hull to check clearances. during construction to position them correctly.

The moving parts and roller bearings of the steering controls were finished in The brake drums were then weathered to match the finish of the rest of the
polished steel. components, concentrating the build up of dust and grime on the upper
edges and surfaces.

The drums could now be glued into position on both sides of the hull.
36
With the drums fixed in position the cooling pipework could now be through the brake drums to help cool the steering brakes and the air is then
connected from the base of the drums to the fan box at the back of the ducted up over the hull roof and vented out of the semi-circular vent on the
gearbox frame. A fan driven by the grearbox driveshaft draws air back left side of the hull.

The control rods for the steering controls were then glued into place here on On the Driver’s side the same rods were added and weathered and two of
the right hand brake and seen before they had been weathered. the pedals, the clutch and accellerator were fitted.

The missing left hand steering lever which had been accidentally snapped off Both pedals were given a suitable polished metallic finish.
at some point was now also fixed back in position.
37
 Returning now to the gearbox I needed to add two sets of cable conduits, a ends drilled out. The open ends are slightly flared which I achieved by
job that I had put off because of the rather improvised way that they are carefully running a round tool around the rim to bend it out. Getting it all
mounted onto the gearbox. To give the mounting brackets as much strength positioned was incredibly time-consuming but I was able to use the position
as possible I made them using brass strip which I soldered where possible. of the bolt heads on the gearbox as a starting place.
the plastic rod conduit was heat-bent using a small candle flame and the

The other conduit was made in the same way but it Another late addition was the bracket 3 for the still to constructed tray which mounts the radio
was a simpler shape a much easier to position. morse key. The bracket was made using a brass strip harvested from an old photoetch fret and bent
to shape.

Left The new parts were painted to match the

rest of the gearbox and the first stage of
weathering is applied using an oil wash.

Below The weathering progresses with the areas

of grime enhanced with acrylic washes especially
around the oil filler cap below the gear selector. I
picked out the cap of the filler in a worn red finish
as this seems to have been standard practice but
I have been unable to confirm this definitively.

38
Another test fit of the gearbox into position to confirm that the weathered moved onto construction of a new instrument panel which is mounted on top
finish matches the rest of the interior. It is my intention to complete as much of the gearbox.
of the detail on the gearbox before it is fixed into position. With this in mind I

I completely discarded the kit instrument panel to allow me to replicate the entire reverse. Adding the bezels to the dials was problematic but I worked
thin sheet metal construction of the real one. The new facia was cut and the out a method using the conical end of a Mission Models multi tool. I used
outline of the box was constructed from plastic card with the curved corners 0.3mm lead wire as it is easy to shape. I formed a loop of wire smaller than
reinforced with blocks of plastic. The dials were kindly supplied by Krzysztof the size of the dial which then opens up to the correct size when pushed
Sroka printed onto clear acetate. I painted on the coloured sections on the over the tool. The excess wire is then carefully trimmed away.
reverse face before spraying a coat of Mission Models white primer over the

With the tool still in position I applied a tiny amount of CA glue around the possible accidental glue seal and the tool is removed to leave the completed
outside edge of the bezel with the tool acting as a mould to maintain the bezels. Any small gaps in the bezel will be filled in the next stage.
shape of the ring. The instrument panel is carefully twisted to break any 39
 The facia was sprayed with several coats of Mr Surfacer to eliminate any glue 1500 Black followed by a coat of Vallejo Air Black. The dials were then cut out
marks and I constructed the light fitting and drilled out the ignition key individually and glued behind the facia using tiny drops of CA.
location below it. The Facia was then sprayed with Mr Finishing Surfacer

The rest of the instrument dial box was then assembled after the reinforced face of the panel. These also had centre locations added to help in
corners of the frame had been ground away with a motor tool. Although they connecting the cables and the dial backs were painted in a dull aluminium
would barely be visible I made the back of the dials to glue to the reverse colour.

The fascia was finally glued into place and the lip was added using a strip of corner. I also added the power socket on the end of the panel. The
plastic card. When I glued the backs of the dials I had accidentally caused a assembled panel was test fitted to the gearbox and I used scrap photoetch
small dip in the thin facia which had to be filled along with a flaw in the fret to form the twisted brackets which secure it to the gearbox.

The only part that I used from the kit instrument panel was switch which I the top of the gearbox. The panel was glued in place, now with its gearshift
reworked before fitting to the right hand corner. To strengthen the mount for pattern placard added and the mounting brackets were added.
the panel I used 5 minute epoxy to glue two bits of scrap photoetch tabs to

40
Connecting up the dials was the next job with this gearbox oil pressure gauge The power supply cable appears to be sheathed between the conduit and the
tackled first using copper wire. instrument panel so a piece of squashed lead solder was used to replicate
this.

Lead wire was used to make the cables 4 that run up the other conduit. The The speedometer cable was made using a 1mm conduit from Prime
wire was pre-painted before being fitted and then any damage to the paint Miniatures with a lead wire passed through it and the conduit carefully
was touched up. I also added a brass strip bracket 5 that secures the cable. stretched to open up the rings.

6 9

The engine oil pressure pipe is fixed to the outside 0.8mm conduit 6 was used to make the connection The last pipe to be added was the water
of the conduit and I used copper wire to make with the dial with brass tube collars. The Rev temperature line 9 which feeds through the cable
this, primed with Mr Surfacer before it was fitted Counter cable 7 was made in the same way as the conduit.
to kill any unwanted shine from the copper. Speedometer. A cable clamp 8 was added.

The new details were then weathered

with acrylics to blend them in with the
appearance of the rest of the gearbox.

41
The project continues in the next Issue
new releases
KEEPING TRACK

Meng 1:35 Russian 9K37M1 BUK Air Defence Missile System

Something of an unexpected choice of subject to be released by variations required for the Finnish version. The front crew hatches
Meng Models and notorious for the shooting down of a civilian can be modelled open, closed or with the hinged windscreen
airliner during the recent Ukraine conflict. For all its apparent cover open. The tow rope stowed on the bow is supplied as a
complexity the kit itself does not appear to be overly complex with moulded plastic part with separate towing eyes. The individual link
five sprues for the main components, two sprues for the missiles track has just 2 spue points per link making clean up reasonably
and three for the individual link tracks. Along with these are the painless and sets of 6 track pins allow for small runs to be
main chassis ‘frames’, a set of photoetched grilles, a clear assembled in the two part jig. The launch platform is another
moulded sprue with track jig and a flexible plastic sprue with frame onto which the separate hatches are applied yet is is a
hydraulic cables. The vehicle is festooned with access hatches, all surprisingly simple assembly process. The missile launch racks
of which have been moulded separately to recreate the raised are designed to be poseable in stowed or raised positions and the
mountings with the most accuracy and they all locate beautifully four missiles are moulded in two parts with separate fins. Its a
as long as you don’t mix them up! The chassis has Meng’s usual pleasingly complex looking model but far simpler to assemble
working torsion bar suspension set up and is pleasingly quick and than its complexity would suggest and it is an impressive size
46 simple to assemble. The kit offers a choice of three different once assembled. We will be taking the BUK for a full test drive in a
colour schemes, Russian, Ukrainian and Finnish with slight design future Issue in Finnish markings.
Meng 1:35 Bergepanther Ausf.A
Another Bergepanther release and this time it is Meng who have and bow armour plugs. The open topped configuration may mean
adapted their recent Panther releases to depict the recovery that these plug in locations are visible? The spade has been
version of the tank based on the Ausf A hull. The kit provides the designed to assemble from interlocking back plates over which
fully loaded version with 40 ton winch and bow-mounted 2cm gun the strengthening ribs fit and each of the supporting legs are
although there is no evidence that is was ever fitted aside from moulded in two halves. The extended towing point for the rear hull
the factory photos. Likewise most Bergepanthers were produced is also included and the crane can be modelled in the deployed
without the winch with only a small percentage having it fitted but or stowed configuration. The raised superstructure over the winch
it is of course the version that everyone wants to model. The kit features the internal stowage bins and individually moulded floor
carries over the flat plate hull design which allows for the interior panels in case you want to partially reveal the winch. The drop
detail required here with a full set of torsion bars to fit out the sides can also be modelled up or down and the foul weather
floor. The front driving compartment includes a detailed gearbox cover for the crew compartment has open or folded options.
assembly with radio sets and crew seats but there are some Tracks are the individual link with individual teeth design a already
details missing like the electrical voltage regulators on the left seen on the other Panther releases as are the lovely photoetched
hand sponson. The 40 ton winch is nicely handled and comes side skirts. The other photoetched fret provides engine deck
with a braided metal cable. The winding drum spindle has been screens, assorted chains and the shield for the 2cm gun. A
artificially beefed up to save the modeller having to wind on choice of two fairly generic schemes are provided with just plain 47
metres and metres of cable. Meng have used the same design balkencruz on the decal sheet.
approach for the upper hull with a sub-frame onto which the side
 M915 (Early Variants) Tankograd American Special No.3033 covers the mighty M915 in it's various guises
including LET, MET, Crew Protection Kit versions, tankers, cement haulers…to say this
Carl Schulze
truck is a workhorse for the U.S. Army is an understatement indeed! The book gives
Published by Tankograd
more of a general overview (not detailed walk-around type shots) of the different
Softback format, 65 pages
versions at work with some great colour images giving excellent camouflage reference
English / German text
and weathering ideas. Not to be missed if you've one of the Mini Man or Trumpeter kits
www.bookworldws.co.uk
in 1:35, a good inexpensive reference.

Gepard
Carl Schulze
Published by Tankograd
Softback format, 65 pages
English / German text
www.bookworldws.co.uk

This is a great monograph on the Gepard in German service from be handy for the latest Meng and Takom kits and scale plans of
Tankograd. Packed with action images and general views there's the removable stowage containers. A solid reference which won't
also an 'In Detail' section with excellent close-ups should you be break the bank. Our thanks to Bookworld in the UK for our
adding detail or opening any access hatches. Full scale drawings Tankograd samples.
in 1:35 are also featured of the 1A1/ A2 and B2 versions which will

Panzer Brigade
Bundeswehr
Manöver 02
Daniel Nowak
Published by Tankograd
Even if German isn't your first language, this 2, Marder, Panzerbergung and other
Softback format, 40 pages second 'Panzer manoeuvre' softback is a must engineering vehicles and the diminutive little
German text for modern Bundeswehr modellers with a Wiesel all feature in bold colour playing in the
www.bookworldws.co.uk fantastic collection of large format images mud. Very inspiring top quality images, if you
48
which go to show how carried away you can can recreate some of the foliage camo in scale
get with weathering modern vehicles. Leopard these subjects will look superb.
 There's no denying that the M1 looks great in bush) and a very detailed walk-around
Australian M1A1 Abrams it's Aussie colours as a modelling subject (in section featuring nice clear shots of all the
Gordon Arthur fact if I keep leaving this book on the Editor's areas modellers will want to focus on. Also
Published by Tankograd desk you might get to see his finished included are reference of the M88A2 ARVs
Softback format, 65 pages sometime!) This must be the most and the various support vehicles including
English / German text comprehensive look at the topic published to some great M113 versions. Recommended
www.bookworldws.co.uk date with terrific action shots (these tanks to any Abrams or Australian armour fan.
take a bit of a beating out on exercise in the

Leopard 1 and 2
From Cold War to
Modern Day
Much has been published on the German Leopard MBTs, and in great detail, this new
M.P. Robinson, V.Costa, C. Jerrett release would probably best be described as an ‘overview’ of Leopard 1&2 showing
Published by Kagero development and variants with some very nice images. Two great looking in-depth
Softback format, 116 pages modelling projects are featured although both are based on the Tamiya 2A6; a Dutch
Polish / Eglish text version and a Polish version, both great reference for modellers but it may have been nice
ISBN 9788395157523 to see more diversity and coverage of what’s available to modellers on the current market
www.casematepublishers.co.uk due to the general coverage of the actual vehicles.

Arab Revolutions and

Border Wars 1980-2018
This is the third release from AK in their massive selection of vehicles from pick-
series of colour vehicle profiles dealing ups to MBTs with interesting field-mods
Pere Valls, Zachary Sex with modern conflicts aimed squarely at and paint schemes from mild to wild. A
Published by AK Interactive getting those creative juices flowing! Arab section of reference photographs (all with
army vehicles from countries including modelling in mind!) give even more to think
Softback format, 148 pages Morocco, Egypt, Syria, Algeria and Turkey about including Shilka, T-55 and T-72,
ISBN 8436535572507 with rebel army armour also featured. The great to accompany the huge choice of
www.ak-interactive.com format offers two quality profiles per page new kits on the market. Very nicely
with the photograph they’re based on produced and very inspirational to
49
alongside; simple inspiration with page modellers of off-beat modern subjects.
after page of ‘must-do’ projects with a
 DM35107

DM35104

DM35082
DM35105

DM30039

DM35106

DM35102

DM30037

DM35103

DM35074

DM35081

DEF model
The guys at DEF have been busy which is great news! Some DEF 1:35 wheels are regarded as some of the very best resin
exciting new additions to their extensive catalogue are now available, all have the bonus of adhesive paint masks; 35107 is for
available starting with some sets to super-detail Academy’s new the new Tamiya Type 16 MCV and also includes a gun barrel
Panzer IV H. We’ve yet to see this kit from the Republic of Korea muzzle, DW35104 is a set for Panda’s MRAP, DW35106 is for
but as the ROK is also the home of DEF that’s probably good Bronco’s M1224 MRAP Maxxpro, DW35102 (retooled version of
reason for these new sets. Most, if not all of the elements would DW35011) for the Trumpeter LAV-25 SLEP and DW35103 for the
transfer to other PzIV kits you may have in your stash; DE35017 is Kinetic RG-31 Mk.5. A few German subjects get the treatment too
the basic set with a sensible selection of smaller detail with the modern MAN 5t from Hobbyboss or Revell with set
enhancements (including adhesive wheel masks), DE35018 is a DW35105, DW30039 for Tamiya or ICM’s Horch 108 and the good
set of turret schürzen, DE35019 is a set of hull schürzen and old Sd.kfz.251 getting new front wheels and a spare with set
fittings (including resin mud shields, this set will also work with DW30037. A super detailed mantlet and barrel are available for
Tamiya’s brummbär) and DE35020 gives the On Vehicle DML’s M48A5 with set DM35082 and a fantastic IDF ‘Urdan’
Equipment the ultimate detail including turned brass barrel cupola for M48 / M60 vehicles including the .30 cal and mount
50
cleaning rods and resin parts. Set DE35021 is a combination of all with set DM35074. More for modellers of Korean subjects with
of the sets, all are excellent quality with equally good instructions. DM35081 which includes optional canvass muzzle covers.
Not content with supplying some of the best kit upgrades around, of M4 or IWI Tavor TAR-21 rifle and a choice of three left hands.
DEF have been busy expanding their range of superb figures. In ‘Diana’ is a photographer armed with two SLR cameras (complete
1:35 is DF35016 a set of two half and one full (seated) modern with photoetch straps and a choice of peaked cap or civilian
ROK tank crew complete with photoetched microphones. Two helmet. www.defmodel.com will keep you up to speed with new
modern female subjects are available in various scales (1:35, 1:16 releases and who to order from in your part of the world, a great
and 1:20) which would make a great touch to any vignette or range of superb products.
diorama. ‘Maria’ is an Israeli Defence Force soldier with a choice

German Rocket Launcher

w/28cm WK SPR & 32cm WK Flamm

Another ultra-detailed MiniArt release based on their 76mm Russian field gun platform, this time pressed
into German service as a towed rocket launcher. The moulding is beautiful shown to full effect by MiniArt’s
matt grey styrene. Also included is some photoetch and a decal sheet (to mark the rounds) and the
option of a towed piece or in action. Not kits for beginners due to the depth of detail and number of small
parts but something to savour for modellers with some experience. Excellent.

Cable Spools
Always coming up trumps with diorama accessories, MiniArt Luggage set 1930-40s
have some more new releases with the first being a classic More beautifully moulded and sculpted diorama components
diorama filler; cable spools. Six each of two sizes are provided to rival the detail of resin aftermarket parts. These pieces will
with a painting guide showing decal placement for German, work in many scenarios and include a hand cart with food
Russian and British industrial designs. We’re not usually fans of supplies, a period styled pram and various bags and cases 51
moulded wood-grain but this is really nice and will paint and with some great little decals to decorate them.
weather beautifully.
 Takom 1:35 M3A1 Lee
Takom continue to work through the ‘Lee’ variants with the early we built the ‘Grant’ a while back and mentioned aftermarket tracks
cast hull version here being the most significantly different in will add a touch of finesse to these kits for modellers with a little
appearance. Takom have made a nice job of the single piece more experience. Photoetch is minimal but certainly worth
upper hull with it’s large hatches moulded separate (although no including, especially the lamp guards which come with a neat little
interior is included should you want to pose these open). The kit forming part to obtain the correct curve. Turret and multi-part
obviously shares parts with the other ‘early’ Lee releases with the cupola look nice and have the option to open the vision hatches.
hull tub and nicely detailed bogies being the first stage of Seven marking options are offered with the decal sheet but
assembly. Suspension bogies are a tricky assembly process but common with most of Takom’s recent releases the colour profiles
do look good finished, as do the wheels and sprockets. Tracks are are so tiny they’re virtually worthless! Another nice addition to the
link and length style and decent enough although if you remember M3 medium family.

Zelda M113, Part 3- APC

and Toga
Michael Mass and Adam O'Brien
Published by Desert Eagle
Softback format, 82 pages
ISBN 978965 7700 105
www.deserteagle-publishing.com

The IDF Armor series continues at a pace with number 23, the photographs and information to help the modeller with an
third part of the detailed reference showcasing the M113 APC and aftermarket conversion project or some scratchbuilding. The
the up-armoured 'Toga'. We're offered the usual Desert Eagle action images are great weathering and crew reference and a
approach of quality large format colour images and detailed, chapter on wrecks and one on the engine and compartment
knowledgable research resulting in the perfect easy access round-off another unmissable release for IDF modellers. Our
52 modelling reference. With new M113 kits hitting the market and thanks to www.aviationbookcentre.com for our sample copy.
the old favourites readily available, this is a superb collection of
 36390

36388

36386

36396

Eduard 36395

Some new releases from Eduard in photoetch to add some comprehensive amount of detail for both the interior and exterior
finesse to some recent kit releases. For Takom’s Panther A in 1:35 (including a printed acetate for the instrument facia). Finally for
we’ve an interior set (36390) including some pre-coloured radio Academy’s 1:35 T-34/76 is set 36395 with much of what you’ll
and instrument facias, and 36392 providing a sensible collection need for some super-detailing including the engine deck grilles
of external details. Also designed for a Takom kit, their King Tiger, and mudguards. Very usable upgrades with good instructions
is set 36386 (mainly tool holders and fittings) and a fender set www.eduard.cz
36388. For ICM’s 1:35 Sd.Kfz 251/1 Ausf. A is set 36396 with a

Stalingrad
Still coming up with the goods, Stalingrad always impress
with their superb resin figures. As their namesake, these two
wounded 1:35 infantrymen and helping NCO suit a scene of
the fighting for the city. Beautiful sculpting and casting as
always, www.stalingrad.diorama.ru

MBK
Modellbau-König are one
of the biggest kit and
accessory suppliers in
Europe who also produce
their own resin
D-Day Miniature Studio conversions and figures. A
Some more nice sculpting from Mr Krasicki of D-Day Miniatures new set in their catalogue
and something to please 1:72 modellers with WWII Hungarian are a pair of ‘1946’ figures
Army figures which are beautifully done (check out D-Day’s range sharply cast in resin and
of 1:72 sets). In their more usual scale of 1:35 is Volume 1 of a perfect for your 1:35 paper
great subject; Polish ‘Home Army’ from the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, panzers. Check out their
a pair of figures in action poses. A pair of relaxed pose Berlin vast web shop at
defenders are Volume 4 in the series ‘The Last Order’. Top quality www.modellbau- 53
figures and a great range at www.ddayminiaturestudio.com koenig.de
 M1A2 Abrams in Detail (revised/expanded) This is a revised version of the Sabot initial release we looked at
C.Mrosko, B.Avants (Sabot Publications) recently which is a great collection of images of the M1A2 providing
excellent modelling reference. With more action shots, walkaround
Published by AMMO of Mig Jiménez close-up images of external, internal and maintenance scenarios
Softback format, 143 pages including some light-hearted interaction with the crews. Good photo
ISBN 8432074059509 captions, information and several colour profiles make for a great
www.migjimenez.com reference on the Abrams which should now be easier to get hold of
through AMMO’s distribution network.

Somewhat a revelation in the West when it was

T-14 Armata displayed at the 2015 Red Square parade (similar to
the IS-3 when paraded at the end of WWII) the T-14
James Kinnear is the first all-new MBT design post-Soviet era. A real
Published by Canfora showpiece of military engineering this new photo
Softback format, 81 pages book is a good companion to anyone building one of
ISBN 9789198477511 the new kits with a comprehensive look in detail at
the exterior and running gear with top-quality images.
www.canfora.se
The development of the Armata is described in detail
providing a good all-round look at this ‘futuristic’
armoured beast.

MiniArt 1:35 Soviet 1.5T Truck with M-4 Maxim

Another release based on MiniArt’s superbly detailed 1.5T truck shown-off with opening doors and panels. Options are given for the
which packs a punch with the pedistal mounted triple Maxim guns. cargo bed (tall or short sides which can be displayed dropped for
Such a delicately detailed kit is best suited to a modeller with a action) and the woodgrain moulding is subtle. The design of the
little experience with many fine parts and photoetch, the detail guns and mount present some challenging work in 1:35 but any
levels are stunning in places and the moulding ultra-sharp effort will be rewarded with a stunning display piece. No less than
54 throughout. Straight from the box is the way to go here, even the ten marking and paint schemes are offered along with the bonus
wheels have tyres created from ‘slices’ to ensure great definition of of a couple of figures.
the tread and a fully detailed engine and cab interior can be
MiniArt 1:35 Tiran 4 Early with interior
MiniArt’s T-54 and T-55 family continues to grow, from memory (and we mean full!) interior and engine bay. The amount of
there’s over 20 versions of these kits so there’s something for photoetch provided is also a clue that these kits are best suited to
everyone including IDF fans. As with their other versions an experienced modellers, just take a look at our feature on the
‘external’ and ‘full interior’ are usually released so in-keeping with Finnish T-54 in this issue to see how good these kits can look. The
that here’s the mega-kit of the Tiran 4 Early. We’ve looked at IDF features are handled beautifuly with optional gun barrels, roof
almost all of this range of kits but continue to be staggered at the mounted .30 Cal. and Israeli jerry cans. Three specific vehicles are
level of detail; even the most ardent of detail freaks will struggle to offered on the decal sheet which completes one of the most
find ways to improve on what’s offered from the box. Be prepared comprehensive (and heavy!) 1:35 armour kits you’ll have the
for some intricate assembly and a huge parts count with the full pleasure of lifting the lid on. www.miniart-models.com

MiniArt 1:35 T-55A Late model 1965

More T-55 goodness, following their full interior release is this and build options include two versions of fuel tanks, stowage
external version (kit 37023). Even without the interior on offer boxes, rain covers, mantlet covers and optional wading
these kits are pretty involved builds but the pay-off is the superb equipment. These kits also have operating torsion bar suspension
detail which again would be difficult to improve on especially with and workable RMSh track links with stunning detail should you
the photoetch included. The finishing options are almost infinate wish to pose your T-55 on uneven ground. Highly recommended
and no less than ten are offered on the colour instruction booklet to modellers with a little experience.

AFV Modeller
1:16 Schwimmwagen Crew
Something brand new from us at AFV
Modeller that started out as a conversation in
our studio but ended up as a real challenge
for the Editor! I must say, he’s really nailed the
look of one of the most famous propaganda
images from the Ardennes campaign, and
often mis-identified as Joachim Peiper and
his driver, this pair of 1:16 Waffen SS crew
figures should certainly get you motivated to
dig out the Eduard Schwimmwagen kit from
your stash. Beautifully sculpted and cast in
grey resin with minimal assembly (basically
hands and heads) and detail captured right
down to insignia and webbing textures. Head
over to our brand new website for more
details and secure shopping 55
www.mengafvmodeller.com
 IBG’s SCAMMELL PIONEER R100

The Scammell truck is one of my favourite wheeled subjects from WW2. It had a resin kit
of the Scammell but never got round to assembling it, but when IBG announced that they
would release this vehicle it revitalised my interest in building one. My choice was R 100
version but I also like the tank transporter becasue of its general appearance.
At the moment we have the 3 companies which have Scammell in their range so we can
choose between resin and plastic, price and the level of details. This truck is total ‘must
have’ for all British Army enthusiasts.
My idea for this kit was to connect it with simple base which could be enhanced by
Miniart’s railway and water pump. The main goal was to show the truck with the rest
intended to be only the background. The first plan was to use only one driver figure but I
started to think that wouldnt be very interesting so I looked for somthing more dynamic.
Quite quickly I found the combination of figures and after couple evenings the actors were
ready. The wounded driver was scratch built (from British Tank Raiders Miniart 35118)
whereas the German troops are resin ones (Alpine Miniatures). So, from a simple static
base it turned into dynamic and atmospheric composition. As someone said about the
scene there are ‘no illusions how it ends’.

56
1:35
 END
OF THE
Modelled by Lukasz Orczyc-Musialek
LINE
57
 The work begins in standard
procedures – I completed the cabin
but before it was glued in one piece I
painted it and finish with all
weathering stages.

From the beginning I was sure that the

chassis needed to be movable to fix it easily
onto the base so I did some reworking of the
front axle and the rear axels.

The weathering and detailing with vinyl

records, girls’ posters and other elements
which were placed around the cabin. Also an
application of pigments was added to the floor
to simulate dried mud from the Driver’s boots.

Note the details I added in wheels section and near the hoist. It was easy It was the first time I used the new Real Colors AK paints so I decided to try
to add them but you need to have good references pictures. them on Scammell. The Blue Black was applied without a primer.

The transport area was filled with cardboard boxes, wooden case and After interior was finished I put all elements together – the cabin and the
some baskets with food. There are American and German food supplies. cargo bed was glued together with the chassis frame. Around the vehicle I
added Milliput sculpted tarpaulins.

58
 The Milliput was rolled thin (like pastry), cut into the
correct sized pieces and rolled as the real covers
would be.

Note the basket on the right

side of the truck which was
filled with different additional
stowage and tools.

The articilated wheels add a sense of drame to the

MiniArt produce some scene, it’s evident just how much ground clearance the
superb railway and diorama Scammell’s had, giving it such good off-road abillity.
accessories in 1:35 like this
water pump

59
 To avoid the paint apllication on the interior parts I Again I sprayed Blue Black on entire model and started to With the airbrush I applied the Olive Drab.
covered all window holes with masking tape. mask the camo blocks on entire model. I used two types of
masking tape – Tamiya’s one for accurate camo borders and
wide for covering of bigger surfaces.

Carefully with no rush I removed the The camo presentation. Various acrylic paints were also used to paint the details. Red hooks
masking tape. It did the work perfectly. and yellow plugs are nice addition to quite dark camo, as are the
sand coloured tarpaulins.

Before the decals were applied I sprayed the kit After drying over the night I started the dark
with glossy varnish. All the decals were treated brown wash. It was prepared with oil paint
with decal solution to set them on the different mixed with white spirit. The green of camo
shapes of the kit. I did not follow the instruction – was also enriched with lighter spots. Oil paint
the markings were positioned for my own taste is perfect for tinting areas of the kit.
and at my own discretion.

The previous steps were preserved with matt

More tones for the camo built interesting

variations of colour

Each military vehicle had some damage on the paint layer. With the sponge and
then with speckling I added very dark brown spots in the most used areas.

60
Heavy dirt and streaks were also painted with oil Two coats of hair lacquer sprayed straight from the can Also some Rainmarks were added
paints. I used dark grey and black as I knew that they were perfect to create the dusty appearance. I mixed here and there.
will be tonned down with next step I intended to do. Tamiya’s Buff with water and after application I wiped it off
with the same tap water I used to dilution.

The painting and dusty finish of the One pigment was used for the dusting and
wheels. Note the red and white bolts. creating of muddy splashes. It was fixed to the
bottom surfaces and speckled in small
amounts on the higher areas.

I enriched the dust and mud with some oily spots in the Also some wet spots were added. After For the wipers I cut the masking templates. After
typical areas where they appear in all trucks. Engine drying they look very natural. It is pigment application their traces look very
Grease colour was diluted in different solutions with white important to apply them randomly. convincing.
spirit and applied on the chassis.

I decided to add some camouflage net with hessian strips. For this I
used the bandage and yellow Post It note pad. Both of them were
cut to the proper dimensions. The bandages were soaked in 3
different acrylic greens and then formed and glued with white glue
on the roof. After the drying I started to add the yellow strips but this
time they were glued with super glue. Note that they were formed in
different way to look completely natural.
Ater the super glue dried I painted all strips with green. It needed to
be done from different angles to cover all yellow paper. Some light
wash was also applied the same as pigment application to tone
down the green and unify it with the rest of the vehicle.

Because the story I told

showed the wounded
driver I added some
bullet holes on the door.
They were drilled and
painted dark brown with
some graphite to give a
metallic finish.

61
 END
OF THE
LINE

62
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