AFV 136 Cover.

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136
MAY/JUNE 2024 • £7.95 UK $16.99
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JOHAN FOHLIN’S

DIRTY
DOZEN
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CONTENTS
2 Dirty Dozen
Johan Fohlin’s stunning Russia 1941 vignette.

10 Double Dozer
Michael Orsbourn dishes up a feast of Centurion AVRE.

24 Nobody Home...
Sam Dwyer recreates a Knocked-out Normandy Panther.

36 Leopard Fangs
Jason Bobrowich’s C2 MEXAS with mine plough.

44 Abrams SEPv2
Jari Hemilä revisits a ten year ‘shelf queen’.

56 Digital Defender
Zack Sex builds the lastest 1:35 Bradley defending Ukraine.

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DIRTY
DOZEN
JOHAN FOHLIN’S
STUNNING RUSSIA 1941
VIGNETTE

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October 1941, for a few days now, the German Army on I started the weathering by sprinkling a small amount of
the Eastern Front has launched its major offensive baking powder, fixed with wood-glue on the model. I
"Operation Typhoon", with the goal of once and for all worked in places where mud collects easily. Mainly on
defeating the Red Army on the battlefield, as well as suspension and fenders. I then used both pigment and
conquering the Soviet capital Moscow. One last attempt Vallejo acrylic to paint the mud. The pigments are
to end the war on the Eastern Front before the turn of excellent for simulating heavy wet mud with textures
the year. Despite previous massive successes gained and I used MIG "European Dust" and "Russian Earth" to
on the battlefield over the past summer and hundreds create this effect. I used a variety of diluted Vallejo
of thousands of Soviet prisoners of war taken, Germany acrylics to create the dust effects. For this I primarily
still sees no end to the war. New Soviet units are set up used Vallejo 70.821 "German Cam.Beige WWII".
at a furious pace and sent to the front. In addition to
these setbacks, a new unpleasant feeling is also I also used different skin tones in small amounts where
spreading among the German soldiers, who have not the dust settles easily. This combination of both wet
previously been noticed before. The fact that with each new mud and old dry dust that is mixed helps to make
passing day, more and more of their old front-line the weathering not only look natural and give a life, but
comrades are buried in the dark Russian soil at a pace also create a deep and aesthetic interest to it as well.
never seen in the war so far... Also note how each rivet got a highlight and the lower
part below has a shadow. I used this technique on
Building, painting and weathering the many different parts of the tank to create light and
Panzer-35(t) shadow effects, much how figure painting works with
I based this kit on the old CMK 1/35 Panzer-35(t). I have light and shadows. Again, this will give more depth to
had this model lying half-finished for many years and if I the model and make it more interesting to the viewer's
had started it today, I would base my kit on a newer eye.
offer available on the market! But I used a lot of
updates from many different manufacturers, including
interiors from Blast Models, photo etching and resin
parts from Royal Model. Most plastic rivets were
removed and replaced with new ones from Caliber-35,
made of resin.

I mixed different shades of Humbrol enamels to paint

the Panzer grey. My mixture was equal parts of
Humbrol 67 "Tank Grey", 125 "US Dark Grey", 61 "Flesh"
and 140 "Gull Grey". I use Humbrol for a first layer basic
painting because it provides a nice and smooth surface
to continue the painting and the weathering process on.
I also use a lot of dry brushing to make different shades
of the panzer-gray base colour and Humbrol is a
phenomenal medium for this too!

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The Figures
I really enjoy working with figures because the possibilities are endless!
The characters are always the key component in a model, diorama or
on a vignette, where they tell the story and communicate what we like to
convey on our finished model. On this diorama, the Panzer-35 work as a
platform for the figures, as they are the main focus.

I usually use a mix of converted figures when creating my scenes. They

can be from different manufacturers, both plastic and resin. In some
cases, I also sculpt figures myself with copper wire and Magic Sculp. It
all depends on the specific needs I have. However, it is important to me
that the figures have a natural position and realistic autonomy. Note that
the figures create a triangular “pyramid” shape where the main
characters are in the upper middle and where then the rest of the
figures spread out on both sides downwards. This is a classic and
effective way to create a natural focal point.

The figures are painted and weathered with Vallejo acrylic. I used Vallejo
70.830 "German Feildgrey" as a base for the uniforms. I then added
70.821 "German Cam.Beige WWII" to create highlights. I mixed in a few
different skin tones to enhance some of the ultimate highlights. (Note
that I use the same dust colours on the figures that I use when I
weathered the tank. This creates a good harmony between the figures
and the tank. To create shadows, I use a mixture of grey colours, even
black in some extreme cases. The faces are painted with a base colour
of Vallejo 70.977 "Dessert Yellow" and highlighted with 70.815 "Basic
Skintone" and 70.928 "Light Flesh". Shadows are made with a mixture of
brown, red and purple colours. Note that I made the skin tone very pale.
It helps to create a feeling of cold and wet autumn.

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The diorama base Also note the placement of the house ruin on the diorama and the
As a basis for the diorama, I used a 19.5x14.5 cm black picture piles of rubble and wooden beams. Everything reinforces the
frame. I glued a piece of 3 cm thick styrofoam to it, which I could "pyramid formation" that the figures already have on the tank.
later build my diorama on. To get nice and straight edges all Again, a way to create focus and direct the viewer's gaze.
around, I covered the sides of the styrofoam with 2.0mm plastic-
card sheets. I glued thin 0.5mm plywood on the outside of the Weathering the diorama
sheet which I finally coated with a dark stain. I masked the frame I added the MIG pigments on green areas and on the road. I also
with Tamiya tape to protect it during further work on the diorama. used Vallejo 70.150 “German Cam.Black Brown” to reinforce the
wet mud, and in places I even took pure black. Finally, to get the
The ground right autumn feel, I sprinkled the base with birch seeds and small
To create the ground, I use Celluclay II. It is a paper pulp which, die-cut leaves from Plus Model.
together with wood glue and water, becomes a perfect tool to
create natural bumps and muddy ruts on the road. Before the Conclusion
paper pulp had time to dry, I sprinkled small gravel, twigs and Mounting 12 figures on a small platform like the Pz-35(t), turned
crushed plaster pieces into the pulp. After everything had dried, I out to be a challenge and really tested my modelling skills. But it
primed the entire base with black primer. I then airbrushed the was also something I have wanted to do for a long time and it was
base with different Tamiya paint colours: XF59 “Flat Earth”and very rewarding when finished!
XF64 “Red Brown”. On the green areas I glued small tufts of static
grass. I then drybrushed them with different shades of sandy
yellow, brown and green. Here I also used small photo-etched
leaves from Aber to add more realism and interest to the ground.

The house ruin

The house ruin is a resin model from Black Dog. To create more
life and detail to the structure, I used small pieces of plaster that I
carefully glued to the surfaces of the house where the brick had
crumbled. After priming, I painted all the house bricks individually
with Vallejo 70.983 “Flat Earth”, 70.977 “Desert Yellow”, 70.804
“Beige Red” and 70.929 “Light Brown”. Then I dusted the surface
with gypsum powder, which I then soaked up with water. The
effect was a perfect mortar that settled between the bricks. I used
the same weathering colours on the ruin and debris on the ground
that I previously had on the Panzer. On the inside of the house I
spray painted the walls with different shades of grey. To get the
feel of an old factory where the paint on the walls has peeled off, I
used the well-known "hairspray technique".

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JOHAN FOHLIN’S

DIRTY
DOZEN
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Michael Orsbourn
digs deep into the details of
the Centurion AVRE with two
builds of the British brute
and shares some unique
reference

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ARMOURED VEHICLE ROYAL ENGINEERS

The production vehicles FV4003 were based on the MK 5 version The AFV Club Centurion AVRE kit is based on 11BA46 which is at
of the Centurion and entered service from 1963. Vehicle ‘02BA58’ Duxford, and I have driven that AVRE many a times and this
was the MK 5 prototype, this had a winch on the rear of the hull vehicle was measured in detail. Having created a list of all Known
but on the production version this was dropped. Centurion AVREs 165mm and their differences in turrets and hulls
The AVRE were converted Centurion’s up to the Mk5. Tanks over time I decided I would build one with a Late mk3 turret we all
converted were a mixture of different builds and periods, for associate has Mk5 turret and a Mk3 turret version.
example Mk3 turrets brought up to Mk5 standard in different
configurations were used. Centurion AVRE 165 with Mk5 shape Turret
Consequently it should be noted that no two AVREs were identical First model is the AVRE which I served on in 1975, 01BA73 31
in one way or another some just minor differences some major. Armoured Engineer Squadron Osnabrück. Which has a Late MK 5
This article is not about each one of them but what can be turret which luckily is the same as AFV Club Model kit is based on.
achieved from the AFV Club kit. In 1975 we still were using chestnut Palling Fascine and steel
Up until the early 1970s the AVREs were painted in Bronze green tracks and Larkspur Radios. I wanted to build this AVRE in my old
then came the switch to NATO IR green and black paint. During style of model making. I was lucky in that I had some reference
this period the Chestnut Fascine was in use which was the same pictures taken of this vehicle when it was in private hands enabling
design as the WW2 version. This changed in the early 1980s to me to look at what I need to change within the kit also a picture
pipe fascines. The 1980s also saw the introduction of the from 1974 from my troop of the same vehicle and other pictures
Pearson’s Mine Plough to clear a path in a minefield under fire. with a pose I wanted to achieve.
Not all the Centurion AVREs 165mm could fit the mine plough, and
this task was given to primarily to the Centurion MK12 105mm The Build
AVRE. The mine plough proved viable to use but it was restricted The first thing not to be fitted were the rear hull towing eyes, K3.
in its cross-country performance. This was later resolved using I then had to replaced K5 due to a mistake I made when adding
what are called tiebacks, which hold the main mould boards up, at some weld marks using red plastic rod. You must be careful in
a different angle. This gives more ground clearance and is that there is not a join on the outside but on the top plate instead.
released by a quick release mechanism from the driver’s hatch, Next the Wheels even though I have some AFV Club rubber wheel
which then lets the mould boards drop to a vertical position prior rims made up chose to try out Scorpion Model Miniatures 3552T
to ploughing. replacement tyres and I replaced all the handles on the engine
During the 1980s a lot of changes happened but again changes and gearbox decks with brass ones.
were not universally implemented. With the introduction of the
PIPE fascines not all AVRE 165s had the modified restraining The first omission from the kit Is the outlet for the bilge pump on
brackets added for example. This period also saw the change of the left-hand rear of the hull I added this also on my model also
radios from Larkspur to Clansman and finally the steel tracks were had to add the taillight conduit has this was visible on the model.
replaced with rubber padded ‘Hush Puppie’ tracks, and all steel Rather than just use the tools for the track guards I decided to do
tracks put into war reserve for use in the event of a war, (hush a bit of detailing using plastic card and rod. I replaced the handles
puppies were changed to steel track on the AVREs which served on the stowage bins and engine and gearbox decks with brass
in the Gulf War). wire with plastic stripe. A hole was drilled brass rod inserted and
The types of work an AVRE was tasked to do were dozing Gun bent over glued and fixed in position at correct height. This was
slots for gun tanks or artillery to fire from, launching Fascines into then carried on right across this model from the turret to the hull
ditches to fill gaps, fire Giant viper to clear a route within a mine and side plates.
field, launching Class 60 trackway over rough terrain and finally Tracks - I had a spare set of Master Club metal tracks which I
route denial by using the 165 to blow away bridge abutments or used, and I used sewing pins which I cut down to length instead of
any other obstacle tasked to the AVRE to complete. the resin pins. For the side skirt plates I used Scorpion Model
Miniatures set 3541D but keeping in line with the rest of the model
I used brass wire and plastic strip for the tie downs.
Models
I was lucky enough to have two AFV Club Centurion AVRE kits and
one AFV Club Mk 3 gun tank. I also had some upgrades from
Scorpion Model Miniatures and a few other upgrades.

Note the
fascine cradle
in the ‘free’
position on this
model.

SMM resin tyres are

a big improvement
over the kit’s vinyl
versions.

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The next Omissions by AFV Club is that the lower centre pin of the The one part of the kit which I must admit I struggled with was the
Dozer blade is ONE long pin this I added a section in the middle headlights and brush guards. There is now a replacement set from
and made one end flat. depending on what pose you have the Scorpion Model Miniatures, but I used the kit ones on both my
blade depends on what is seen. models which I painted Vallejo 71063 silver left to dry before fitting
Also on the dozer blade was the pin brackets for locking the flap the lens. I added copper wire, which was curled around a drill bit,
up if needed were added and a couple of holes drilled. This again a hole made in the lower headlight cable plug on the hull and
was done with plastic strip. On the front cutting edge of the dozer added a socket out of green putty.
blade the end parts are slightly raised again I used plastic card to
achieve the look Tow ropes were added using Eureka Centurion tow ropes nice to
use and look great when fitted.
The fascine cradle on this Model is what I wanted to show off.
Front part of a fascine cradle lifts (K42) to rest against Fascine or The Turret I built it straight out of the box except I used the AFV
Class 60 also is lifted when adjusting the track or lowered for CLUB Gun mantel for the kit and added a cover for the end of the
gunnery. Having found a real picture I used this to match the pose barrel, this was made from painters white masking tape covered
of my parts. Having established the correct position I wanted for in super glue and a etch brass strap added. The turret bin had
the dozer blade I then loosely fitted the fascine cradle then stowage straps from some lead from old brandy bottles I had and
lowered the fascine cradle and then attached K42 to achieve the continued by adding tie down loops from wire. Cable and cover
look I wanted then glued it in place. I must admit took me two were added to the D10 cable reel.
attempts and Paul Crocker kindly came to my rescue with a spare
fascine cradle.

Below you can see the bilge pump outlet and light cable
conduit running on the outside before going into the hull.
Also you can see the callsign board added to the rear
basket not all AVREs had this fitted .

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Because this was based on a 1970s vehicle, I

changed the following:
I did not fit L19 or L24 but added a double one in
place at the rear. (see pictures of 01BA73) What was
added was the Commanders spare .30 Browning
stowage brackets on the back of the turret this was a
modification across all centurions but not all had the
modification and some AVRE had it removed.

I also removed the Co-axial .30 browning after basic

paint as it looked wrong, but in reality, not always
fitted.
The turret basket was built and then a piece of tights
fabric was added around the outside to represent
hessian, this was covered in PVA glue and then
painted with a primer.
Some jerry cans and a piece of wire and then some
bits made from magic sculp and finally some camo
net from AFV Club. The rear turret Basket was added
to the back of the tank on the gearbox decks
mounting points.
That was the build completed for this model.

Centurion AVRE 05ZR38 fitted with Mk3 Turret shape. other Centurion AVRE kit , but I used SMM tie downs instead of
Description of changes to turret to bring it to Mk5 AVRE wire and no lower rear towing eyes. I also used AFV Club’s
standards. individual ‘hush puppies’ track pads for the track. I did not like the
rubber track.
So, when I was looking into the registration numbers which took The AVRE turret had no rear hatch on the back of the turret, this
some time to gather, I came across some very old registration was filled in using milliput and plasticine mix and sanded smooth.
numbers. Then I was shown some pictures of Centurion AVREs at The turret loaders episcope was removed from the other AVRE kit
a storage depot before their disposal plus a few more. and added to the Mk3 turret, a blanking plate fitted to the turret
The main difference is that the loaders episcope normal fitted roof and then added the fitting to enable a pipe fascine to be
alongside the bomb thrower on the turret roof has been removed carried also added SMM tie downs and Clansman radio Antennas
and blanked off with a disc, a new episcope very similar to Mk5 bases.
shape turret was added to the front slope of the turret and adding The rear basket was made but I wanted to build this one slightly
a .30 coaxial browning Therefore, making it a Mk5? different. Using Magic Sculp, I added a very thin outer layer to the
Just to clarify the AVRE Mk3 vehicles fall during the period of when basket to look like is was covered in hessian, I added some
the Mk3 were being built, due to there being several manufactures stowage from my spares box and I added some AFV club
of the centurion Turrets there were variations of this. Camouflage net to give me a base to add more during the
finishing stages of the model.
So, we have a Centurion AVREs with Mk3 early turret which still Both models were now read for paint.
had the hatch at the back of the turret for the removal of the
17pdr gun, hatch still in working order, Hinges cut in half and
welded shut, to total removal of the hatch and a blanking plate
fitted to not having ever had a rear hatch fitted at all.

Some photographs are added has reference along with a spread

Note the coiled wiring to
sheet. the headlamps as per
reference of this vehicle.
The Build
I wanted to build a Late AVRE 32 Armoured
Engineer Regt Munsterlager. Mid 80s
onwards. I was lucky enough to be sent a
full walk around of several vehicles of this
period and I decided on 05ZR38. It has a
Mk 3 turret built in 1948! which is why I
have built it for the article. It did not have A
Mine plough Socket next to the drivers
hatch.

First considerations were what were the

major changes to be done to the AVRE kit.
It needed a Mk3 turret luckily, I had an AFV
Club mk3 kit, so the turret and AFV Club
gun mantel from this were used.
The Hull was built in the same way as the
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Scorpion Miniature Models (SMM)

do some very worthwhile upgrades
for the Centurion; their roadwheel
rims and tyres and side skirts can
be seen in full effect here.

Basic Painting of both models good friend then when they had dried I matt varnished decals.
finally, I varnished the whole model with Vallejo Matt Varnish and
So, both models were washed and primed with citadel black left to cure.
primer from a spray can and left to dry for a week. I painted the fire extinguishers in Vallejo Bronze green then add a
coat of gloss varnish then the decals.
Then the base coat green was Vallejo Russian green surface After two weeks and the model had cured, I started on the
primer with IJA dark green cloud-sprayed over the model. I weathering starting with the tracks.
painted the lower hull suspension less wheels brown on the mk5 The tracks had already previously been painted in Vallejo NATO
turret version. Again, left to dry for a week. black and cloud-sprayed with Vallejo Dark Mud I then dry-brushed
I then painted the canvas mantels and back basket hessian and them with Scale 75 sc22 Arabic shadow and mixed with SFG 41
sheets etc in a chestnut brown colour has a base. Hykey Yellow on the inside on the steel tracks it was done on both
The rubber aerial mount parts and cables etc and wheel tyres and sides. I use scale 75 paints as they have a very thick pigments
hush puppies track pads with Lifecolor black tyre paint. and very matt finish.
Reflectors were painted red or white. As they were painted
internally during the build, I add a paper sticky dot to cover the
headlights when I sprayed the model therefore keeping them nice
and clean. Once painted the dots
could be removed.
The camouflage black was hand
painted with a mixture of Vallejo
NATO black and black surface
primer. I also used Vallejo gloss
and just painted gloss where the
decals were to be placed the
decals were made for me by a

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The canvas sheets and Mantel covers were painted using

glazing techniques then dry brushed followed by some
washes of burnt and Raw Sienna using scale 75 artist
range.

Rust was added to the exhaust and one dozer blade to

show it had been in use and then washed in dark browns
from Vallejo. The tow ropes and the dozer blade on one
was done the same way to look for shiny finish to the
blade because when you been dozing this happens it
removed the paint and becomes very shiny but corrodes
again quickly. A wash from grey and black Brown Vallejo
was added.

The camouflage nets were added to both AVREs these

were AFV Clubs Camouflage net, it is a decal type but I
experimented with it and has the instructions show its
more pliable if painted.

By adding some diluted white glue to the area I then

placed segments of the Camouflage net in place and
lifted it to give the desired effect I wanted, trying to
replicate how we used to stow the Camouflage nets on
the AVREs.

Weathering
The weathering was done in two different ways. So Mk3
turret version this was highlighted using ARTIST pastel
acrylic Chalks which could be used like paint by adding
water or ground down make great pigments. I need to
achieve a dusty dirty look has if it had been washed.
Once I had used several colours I then brought out the
real stuff I had some dust I had collected from a real
tank whilst working on them. which had been on
Bovington tank area being a very fine dust it acts like
pigment again adding water changed it colour. This
achieved the look I wanted then finally the Dozer blade
which go rusty very quickly once used, this was done
using different orange and browns and then a pencil
lead run around the
edges to then real Mk3 Turret mantel cover was
used from the AFV Mk3
dust added.
centurion Kit. The AVRE
165mm mantel cover BY
AFV club was used on the
other version. It was I just
wanted a different look on
this turret. As you can see it
fitted nicely and was a
dream to paint once primed

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Mk5 turret version was weathered by adding a Scale 75 ARTIST Final touches were some dark browns added to the cam nets in
range burnt umber paint has a wash then high lights added and places and dust on top.
some dry brushing using various colours from the range.
Then using Green Stuff World Middle earth ground texture effect, I Conclusion
added this to the front of the dozer blades and along the edge of These are great kits, typical of AFV Club, a lot of cleaning up
the side plates, rear tow ropes, wheels and sprockets in small required on certain parts but that’s the nature of the moulding
amounts. I was basing this on several pictures I had. Letting this process, the vinyl tires do not look the part and I did not like the
dry for a week it became very hard, I then used Green Stuff Rubber hush puppie track. I loved using the Scorpion Model
pigments Middle Earth, Light Brown and Burnt Umber. Miniatures products and Green Stuff World and scale 75 products.
I proceeded to add some to the sprockets and wheels and bottom Had a lot of fun trying new products and using my old ways for
of the side plates and along the top where dirt would come out. building and painting to achieve the look I wanted.
Again, I used some water in some places with the pigments to Scorpion Model Miniatures do lots of updates from wheel rims to
make darker tones on the wheels. And the front of the hull also headlights for AVRE. Newland Models make a 1:35 resin Pearson
dozer blade front and back and the dozer blade was highlighted mine plough which if you wish to add instead of a dozer blade.
using a pencil.
Finally, the real dust came out but this time I only dusted the side Special thanks to just a few people whom with out there input I
plates and the lower suspension and back of hull dozer blade and would not have finished these two models they are Paul Crocker,
track guards/ infantry rides. Ian Barraclough, Andrea Kirchoff, AFV Club, Simon Dunstan.

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CENTURION
AVRE IN DETAIL
05ZR38 (Andrea Kirchoff)

01BA75 (Andrea Kirchoff)

01BA75 (Andrea Kirchoff)

01ZR75 (Andrea Kirchoff)

01ZR15 (Andrea Kirchoff)

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07ZR12 (Andrea Kirchoff)

07ZR12 (Andrea Kirchoff)

OOBA75 (Richard Stickland)

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11BA46 (Michael Orsbourn)

11BA46 (Michael Orsbourn)

07RZ21 (Andrea Kirchoff)

11BA74 (Richard Stickland)

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01BA73 (Michael Orsbourn)

01BA73 (Michael Orsbourn)

01BA73 (Michael Orsbourn)

05ZR38 (Andrea Kirchoff)

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:16 Page 22

www.afvmodeller.com

M10•ACHILLES
UPDATE PARTS
FOR THE ANDY’S HOBBY HEADQUARTERS KITS

M10 / Achilles Driver’s Compartment

This set provides the missing parts of the Driver’s Compartment
suitable for both M10 and British Achilles with fully detailed gearbox,
seats and Instrument panel.

M10 US SCR-508

Achilles British Type 19

British Type 19 Radio set or US SCR-508 Radio Set

Depending on your choice of subject you can add the appropriate radio
set for the co-driver’s hull sponson. To allow the facia of the Type 19 to
22 be painted the protective cage is supplied as separate parts.
AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:16 Page 23

M2 Browning in the D70627 Cradle

The D70627 cradle is correct dedicated mount for
the M10 along with the square pattern ammunition
box. Dont forget our spent .50 Cal shell cases and
clips to complete the scene.

Corrected Ammunition
Stowed turret ammunition is a focal point
of these vehicles so we have designed
corrected rounds for both M10 and
Achilles as well as providing types like the
Sabot no provided in the kit. They are sold
in sets of 3 as well as sets of 4 spent
cartridge cases. They are printed so that
both case and projectile are free of print
support points when assembled.

British 17 Pounder

Stowed Sten Guns

These superbly detailed replicas
come in a set of four to allow you to
add the missing Sten Gun stowage
on both sidewalls of the Achilles
turret.
US M18 Azimuth Indicator
Stowed Sten Gun Magazine Rack Mounted on the turret ring this is
Also for the Achilles is this highly another missing detail from the
detailed rack that holds the M10 turret interior. The Cage on
magazines for the Stens. It features top is a separate part to allow you
all the surface detail for the to replicate the compass dials
that are inside. 23
magazines and textured webbing
straps. US 3 inch
AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:19 Page 24

SAM DWYER’S
SCALDED CAT

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Sometimes a single image can provide a ton of inspiration, other and turret parts together, so had to somehow force some
times you’re gifted with several images of your chosen subject to mangled interior components in through the turret ring and driver
get the motivation juices flowing. Ive long been fascinated with the hatch plate hole. I sourced these from a Takom Panther that I’d
battles in Normandy and in particular how the Allies broke out of built previously and not used the insides. Luckily all I really needed
the bocage country and were able to fight the battles on their own to do was have a jumble of damaged parts in there, so mend
terms using manoeuvre warfare. 1st Battalion, Panzer Regiment 6 banged and mangled the Takom plastic parts and glued them in.
was attached to the Panzer Lehr Division during the Normandy
campaign, and along with much of Panzer Lehr ceased to exist as All the kit wheels were left off as the pictures of the real tank
a unit as a result of the Operation Cobra offensive in late July showed the running gear missing tyres and in very bad condition,
1944. not just from the fire, but as a result of the bulldozer and
subsequent roll over. Enter T-Rex Studios who have produced a
The Normandy countryside was littered with knocked out and complete set of Panther running gear that can be built in various
destroyed German armour, rather than slow the Allied advance if a states of disassembly and or damage. Matching the real thing, the
piece of destroyed armour was blocking the advance it was running gear was built up from T-Rex 3D printed parts. Missing
bulldozed off the road to clear the way. Its here that we find my wheels, rubber tyres, exposed swing arms and wheel hubs are all
chosen subject, a thoroughly burned out and destroyed, and rolled accurately captured and matched to reference pictures. After
over I./Pz.Regt.6 Panther Ausf.A. Over the years I’ve managed to assembling the left or lower side of running gear, I realised after
find several walk around images of the real tank, I just knew I had my 1,000th view of the pics that the internal fire when the tank
to built it. Try as I might, I’ve not been able to work out how this burned had ruined the torsion bars on that side too, so off came
tank was destroyed. There doesn’t seem to be any penetration the wheels to be repositioned.
from a tank round, no bomb damage specifically, just lots of flame
damage. Was it knocked out by a fighter bomber, or was it A simple oval shaped base was made up using foam, an oval
abandoned and scuttled by its crew? Who knows! casserole dish was used as a pattern. Foam is great to use as a
base as its light but very sturdy and can be easily carved to
Starting with Mengs’ excellent Panther A, the hull and turret parts ensure your model is sitting right. I carved a channel for the model
were assembled in order to start the zimmerit application process. to sit down into the groundwork, and covered the base in VMS
Zimmerit was applied to the hull and turret in the MAN factory Smart Mud. The model was pressed down into this groundwork
pattern using Magic Sculpt putty applied with a small spatula and material and the whole thing allowed to set up overnight.
textured with a Lion Roar zimmerit roller. Pics of the real tank show
the zimmerit largely in place despite a catastrophic fire, I realised Once the initial base work was done I was able to revisit all the
after applying it to the entire turret that it was missing on one side details on the model, ROCHM photo etch brass details were
almost entirely. Luckily removing zimmerit is relatively simple when added, the rear stowage bins being super easy to build up from
using Magic Sculpt, a fresh blade slid between the putty and one small sheet of etch brass. These were soldered together,
plastic and off it came. A lot of thought went in to how I was going damage added and zimmerit applied. Spare track brackets were
to depict the model, I removed the driver and operators’ hatch built up and bent to show damage where the bulldozer has
panel that sits above the transmission, the mounting flange was contacted them when the tank was pushed out of the roadway.
added carefully using 10 thou Evergreen styrene. Remnants of track cable were added to the tool brackets and the
kit fenders were thinned heavily from behind, then carefully bent to
Initially I wasn’t going to put any interior in the model, but was match the real pictures.
shamed into it (thanks Jim!).. but I’d already glued the major hull

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The MG ring on the commanders cupola was also removed, just

the locating tabs remained on the cupola. No wait, it wasn’t
removed, it just wasn’t added, bent and damaged locating tabs
were added from thin Evergreen styrene strip in its place.
Because, photographs. Always referring back to the image or
images of the subject you're working on is vital when you want to
get every detail right, or at least as close as possible. The hatches
and inspection ports on the hull floor were removed and the
mounting flanges added, here was a spot that I could see vague
detail, but not quite enough to see what is going on inside the hull
through these hatches.

I could only guess at the

destruction in there, so added
torsion bars and various shapes
and strips using random pieces of
Evergreen styrene.

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When I was happy that I had matched as much detail as possible, floor again using the pictures of the real tank as inspiration. These
I gave the whole model a solid coat of Mr Surfacer 1500 black, scorch marks were applied using off cuts of a dense sponge (don’t
thinned quite heavily with Mr Levelling Thinner. I gave this a couple throw any packaging away kids!) Then quickly scrubbed with a
of days to really harden (ok it was maybe a month), in the mean rough old brush to abrade and damage the edges to give them a
while I added more detail to the groundwork, again trying to random look. Rusty washes with AK enamel weathering paints
match images I had of the real thing. The hatch plate was were then added tone the white down and enhance the rusty look.
arranged, damaged and thrown track was also set in place on the
base, and I scratch built a heavily damaged and empty radio rack Chunks of groundwork were added to the running gear, this clearly
using lead foil. This medium is easy to work with and bends and happened when the tank rolled over and the wheels dug into the
damages perfectly. I rummaged through my spares box and found field where the tank finally lay. This was done using AK Terrains
a suitable US figure, I sculpted his arms to have him leaning into acrylic paste. The container I had at hand has gotten a little lumpy
the gaping interior, surveying the damage and corruption within. in its old age (me too AK Terrains paste, me too) and was perfect
Once I’d gathered up the courage to apply a coat of paint to the to use for the clumps of sod stuck to the wheels. This was mixed
model, the first step was to apply a couple of light coats of cheap with some static grass to add to the texture. I took this opportunity
hairspray over the black primer. Remnants of camouflage and to also mount the hull to the base and blend it into the
random rusty tones were sprayed over the model with Tamiya XF groundwork, using more VMS Magic mud to ensure the tank really
acrylics. These colours were then abraded and degraded with a did sit down into the dirt. I broke out my shiny new static grass
brush moistened with tap water. It was pretty ugly at this stage! applicator, gave myself the obligatory tiny electric shock that
everyone gets when using these things, and applied static grass
Smaller details were painted in, like the bare steel left when the to random spots all over the base. This really helped with getting
vent cover armoured guard was blown off, some of the hairspray the sit of the model right and added a touch of colour to the base.
chipping was touched up with the airbrush, then a series of rusty Ive had a few folks comment as to why the grass isn’t burned,
washes were applied to the steel areas of the tank using AK 3rd when the tank is so clearly destroyed by fire. The tank didn’t burn
Gen acrylics. Trying to match a series of black and white images where it lay in the field, rather it was bulldozed and rolled into the
to a full colour model can prove to be tricky, whats white in the field, so burned elsewhere. Until more information comes to light
images could be bright orange rust in real life, or they could be as to this specific vehicle, thats the best I got! Of course Murphys
remnants of white scorch marks. Chips and damage to the Law states ill get all the info on this tank not long after I finish it.
zimmerit was painted in with light greys and ochre mixes again
using AK 3G acrylics. White scorch marks were applied to the hull

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Dust washes were used to really tie the tank into the groundwork, In several pictures of the real tank, someone has scrawled the
my go to colour here is Vallejo German Camouflage Beige, it really word ‘Tiger’ on the turret roof. It was quite common for GI’s to
captures the dusty look perfectly. This was concentrated around mislabel all tanks as Tiger tanks. I thought this was a must to add,
the lower areas - so the left side of the tank. More static grass so mixed up some beige and carefully brushed it on. More clumps
was added, and longer tufts of grass using bristles from a very of earth, some vines and some discarded communication wire
cheap paint brush. The grassy areas were all painted, unpainted was added to the running gear to match my reference images,
static grass just doesn’t look right. So out with as many acrylic foliage retaining wire was also added to the gun barrel.
greens as I could find in order to get loads of variation in the
colours of the grass. Jerry cans, spare and thrown track, the tanks With the model and figure firmly attached to the base, the last
jack and lots of track pins were painted up and scattered on the step was to add some mud and grassy sod into the hatch hole
base. In several pics of this tank someone has leaned a spare and vision ports on the cupola. It was this detail in the images of
track pin up against one of the rear hull stowage bins, this was the real tank that convinced me that it rolled over after being
added to the base. Track pins are super easy to make, some 20 bulldozed. Again using AK Terrain acrylic paste, mud and dirt was
thou Evergreen rod and a punched styrene disc glued to one end. added to the cupola, individual strands of static grass were poked
The figure was painted with acrylics and carefully added to the into the still wet paste to get the look of grassy clumps. This draws
base so that both feet and both hands were touching where they the model to a close - whilst ive captured the work in a few
were supposed to. thousand words, it was 6 months of obsessing over every detail on
the tank in order to get it as correct as possible.

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:19 Page 35

ass around
Best br

Eduard monthly magazine with historical

articles and modeling to
opics. More than 100
pages! Free download at info.eduard.com
AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:24 Page 36

LEOPARD

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Jason Bobrowich builds a Combat Ready Leopard C2 MEXAS with Mine Plow
The combat deployment of seventeen Canadian Leopard C2s until the cessation of Canadian combat operations in the summer
fitted with MEXAS to Afghanistan came to reality in October 2006. of 2011 as the new Canadian Leopard 2A6M CANs and the
A Leopard C2 in each Troop mounted a mine plow. The mine plow Leopard 2A4M CANs could not mount the mine plows during the
added approximately three tons of weight to the Leopard but did Afghanistan mission.
not impact mobility when the plow arms were in the raised The mine plow creates an aggressive look on the Leopard making
position. Once the plows lowered the Leopard reduced speed and for a great looking modelling subject. This kit is suitable out of box
would methodically plow a lane through a suspected or confirmed to represent a Canadian Leopard C2 MEXAS with mine plow
mined / IED infested area. A chain mounted metal “dog bone” between late 2006 to mid-2007 prior to the addition of the thermal
hung between the plow arms with the objective of detonating tilt covers and the crew cooling system “chiller box”.
rod armed mines prior to impacting the tank’s lower hull. The
Leopard C2s mounting mine plows slugged it out in Afghanistan

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TRACKING THE TARGET liquid cement to create the L4 and R4 weld bead denotations on
The hull parts in this Hobby Boss kit are identical to the parts in the plow arms.
the Hobby Boss Leopard C1 MEXAS, kit #84502. This is beneficial
from an assembly perspective, but the same accuracy issues are I decided early on that I wanted to pose the plow in the raised
present in this kit. position. The kit instructions provide the basic positioning for the
I added multiple weld beads using stretched sprue to the hull rear, plow arms in the lowered position; therefore, manipulation of the
hull front, and back deck. I noted immediately that the kit supplied parts was required to create the accurate raised positions. On the
tow cables were approximately 3cm short, so I replaced them with real plow, the arms raised and lowered by two motors using high-
the excellent Leopard 1 tow cables from RMG Resin Models. capacity straps. When the plow is in the raised position the straps
When the mine plows were first used in Afghanistan, the lower are only partially visible. I replicated the straps using Tamiya tape
glacis plate sections of the MEXAS modules were removed to carefully positioned around the plow arm roller and up to the
properly fit the mine plow mount on the front hull. This exposed motor assemblies.
the welded MEXAS mounts and the mounts for the removed A very notable details on mine plow is the various chains and
grouser racks on the glacis plate. The kit hull is void of these turnbuckles to limit the movement of the plow arms and
details, so I added them using resin MEXAS mounts and styrene. moldboards when conducting mine plowing operations. I used an
The curved armoured cable cover is included in the kit; however, additional length of chain to hold the tilt rod roller, commonly
Hobby Boss created the part and the cable attachment point on called the dog bone, in the gap between the mine plow skids. The
the mine plow mount in the wrong location. The kit parts align the kit provides a small section of chain for the dog bone and small ‘D’
assembly in the middle of the glacis plate when in fact it is angled ring shackles but that is all. To get to the level of detail that I
toward the left side of the glacis plate. Unfortunately, I did not wanted I solicited the assistance of Canadian modeller Jim
notice this error until after I had attached the armoured cable Carswell and his 3D printing skills. By providing Jim the
cover and had to live with the slightly mispositioned parts. The kit measurements and images of the turnbuckle shackles he
lacks details for the cable cover hull mount and the attachment produced excellent recreations in 1/35. I added the variety of
conduit from the cables to the mine plow. I added those details chains by using Verlinden large tow chains and small sections of
using styrene and spare photo etched parts. larger gauge chain provided in the Perfect Scale Modellbau 1/35
Leopard Mine Plow Kit.
I completed the rear hull with photoetch chains added to the rear The completed plow attached to the towing eyes without any glue
hull toolbox, gun crutch, and Leopard Workshop tow shackles. The and fits very snug. The mine plow looks daunting and gives the
hull front received final details with the addition of driver’s Leopard its fangs.
periscope washers, Leopard Workshop resin fording plugs and
photoetch chains, and wiring for the horn. I would add the MASTER BLASTER
headlight cables and plow manual release cables during final I began the turret detailing by adding the anti-slip surfaces on the
finishing. I added minute details to the hull side such as styrene turret and storage bin. I masked off the turret areas using Blu-Tack
and resin MEXAS brackets on the bottom of the MEXAS modules, reusable adhesive and sprayed the anti-slip with Rust-Oleum fine
the exposed mounts for the removed hull side bins near the tow textured black spray paint. The storage bin received the same
cable bracket, and a wonderfully detailed 7.62mm ammunition anti-slip surface application with a more complicated masking
can on the left exhaust grill produced by Plus Model. Canadian accomplished by using Tamiya masking tape.
Leopard crews have used 7.62mm boxes attached to a short I replaced the kit 105mm main gun with a resin version produced
chain and hung on the exhaust grills since the early Leopard C1 by Perfect Scale Modellbau. I added small strips of styrene to
days as a field expedient method to heat ration packs. replicate the Canadian style barrel jackets ring clamps. Only minor
I switched out the kit tracks for Orochi Leopard 1 tracks. I modification to the kit mantlet was required to fit the resin barrel.
assembled the tracks without a single drop of glue, and they are The mantlet area mated to the turret resulted in unrealistic gaps. I
100% workable which make for an excellent fit on the drive used lengths of heated and stretched sprue filled the gaps and
sprockets and idler wheels. blended the mantlet cover to the turret more realistically.
The kit grenade dischargers are clunky, so I replaced them with
LEOPARD FANGS excellent resin renderings and photo etched chains produced by
The track width mine plow included in this kit is the first styrene Leopard Workshop. The Leopards in Afghanistan used temporary
plastic mine plow for Leopard 1 kits and is long overdue. Overall, plastic covers on the loaded grenade dischargers and the
the mine plow is a good representation of the real implement. I permanent dust caps and retaining chains stowed on the pegs on
added weld beads, bolt heads, and retaining pin chains to the the grenade tubes. Using appropriately sliced styrene rod, I
fittings on the plow moldboards, skids, and plow arm assemblies. replicated both two type of dust caps.
Going old school, I used small sections of stretched sprue and

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I removed the stowage bin moulded on handles and replaced with an old Italeri Leopard 1A4 kit. I sand down the details on the Italeri
new brass rod handles. I dipped into the Legend Productions hatch and attached it with vertical supports made from styrene
Leopard C2 MEXAS update set to provide the turret jerry can strips. Old school kit bashing is still a good option to have in your
racks, the antenna stowage bag mounted on the bottom of the back pocket.
stowage bin, the missing GPS antenna, and the turret hatch ring I replaced the antenna mounts and antenna using the outstanding
machine gun locking arms. resin and metal Canadian aerials for the Leopard C2 (late) and
The turret was blinged up with Meng bolts on the MEXAS panels Leopard C2 MEXAS produced by Leopard Workshop. The final
and the gunner’s sight housing. The loader’s hatch is void of details on the turret focused on the loader’s turret mounted C6
details forward of the hatch springs. Using my reference images, I GPMG. The machine gun itself is well moulded requiring minor
rebuilt the missing details using styrene, spare photo etch parts, photo etch additions in the form of the butterfly trigger and
and good luck. retaining chains. I replaced the original-style ammunition box
I noticed during assembly that the commander’s hatch ring was included in the kit with the larger late version provided in the
missing from my kit. I found a solution by using the hatch ring from Legend Productions Leopard C2 MEXAS update set.

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CAT COLOURS The Orochi tracks have been known to being susceptible to
I primed all parts with Tamiya Neutral Grey XF-53. I used a base weakening when oil paints are applied. I stuck to Vallejo acrylic
coat of faded NATO green created by mixing Tamiya NATO green paints for washes and used Tamiya XF-57 Buff for primary dusting.
XF-67 and Tamiya Buff XF-57. This would form the base for I masked off the inner track links where the road wheels would
multiple weathering applications. have contact on the track pads and applied a light application of
To create tone variations on the base coat, I masked off two Tamiya NATO Black XF-69. I dry brushed the centre guides with
MEXAS modules on each side of the hull as well as the engine Rub’n Buff Silver Leaf Metallic Wax Finish to replicate the wear
deck. I sprayed on a faded green mixture and the colours popped from contact with the inner surfaces of the road wheels.
out. The mine plow was unique in that all the previous weathering
Next, I masked and picked out the components to paint with techniques used on the hull and turret would used, but I also
Tamiya NATO Black XF-69, including the fender extension rubber wanted to replicate a heavy build up of surface rust that would be
strips, the mine plow cables, the exhaust grills, and the tracks. The present after a period of sitting idle. I studied reference images to
turret components masked off and painted NATO Black included find that the rust areas varied, but also contained bare metal
the ECM cover, grenade discharger caps, the commander’s areas, faded paint areas, and multiple scratches.
periscope, and the commander’s TRP-200 sight. I applied the
decals using a combination of kit decals and decals from one of I opted to use Mig Productions (now AK Interactive) Standard Rust
the Echelon Fine Details Leopard C2 MEXAS in Afghanistan sets. pigment for the primary rust areas and them Gulf War Sand
The objective of the weathering was to create a well used and pigment to create a transition line from the rust to the green paint.
dusted tank, but I started with pin washes using Windsor & To apply the rust, I used a small flat #2 brush to trace out the
Newton Raw Umber oil paints to provide depth to the base coat. distinct curved rust line and then filled it in toward the leading
Moving to the first of three techniques for the dust accumulations, edge of both sides of the tines. Next, I applied the Gulf War Sand
I used the AMMO by Mig Oilbrusher Dust 3516 from their Ground pigment using the brush to the curved edge which created a
Colours Set. I used a combination of applying the dust oilbrusher transition line from rust to dust to paint. I created the bare metal
directly to the model parts and manipulating it over surfaces and areas along the edges of the tines using a Derwent Graphitone
into crevices with thinner and using it as a dedicated pin wash silver metallic HB pencil. I find this metallic pencil easy to work
from a palette. I found using a combination of both techniques with and the metallic look is very realistic. To create the scratches,
allowed me to control the dust build-up while still complimenting I used a Derwent Golden Brown pencil. The light brown tone of the
the initial raw umber wash. pencil is subtle but represents scratches on dark paint and
For the second stage of dusting, I used thinned Tamiya Buff XF-57 pigments very well.
airbrushed over multiple surfaces to build up a dusty look and
blend the oilbrusher applications.

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I painted and weathered the road wheels in the

same manner as the hull but with one added
effect. Worn road wheels on Canadian Leopard 1s
can display visible bare metal around the outer
rims. To replicate this effect, I spread a small
amount of Rub’n Buff Silver Leaf Metallic Wax
Finish on a piece of paper and placed each road
wheel on the silver surface. The result was exactly
what I was looking for and matches references.
Once I attached the tracks, I used light applications
of the Gulf War Sand pigments and then I applied
Standard Rust pigments to the end connectors and
outer portions of the centre guides. This provided a
surface rust look of weathered Leopard tracks.

PILING ON
Adding storage and other details moved ahead starting with the
turret. I added Legend Production resin cots on the right side of
the turret stowage bin and secured using Tamiya tape straps and
photo etch buckles. On the left side, I created a folded tarp was
using a portion of the black latex glove. I have used this technique
multiple times and it replicates modern rubberized tarps extremely
well. I added resin fuel and water can on the turret rear as well as
a firmly secured U.S. MRE ration box. On the right rear turret
storage bin, I created an air recognition panel using thinly rolled
Aves Apoxie Sculpt. I painted the panel using Tamiya Flat Red
XF-7 and weathering with washes and pigments to dust it up.
I added the headlight cables as well as the two cables for the
I stocked up the turret with a variety of water bottles, binoculars,
emergency manual lowering of the mine plow arms to the front
soda cans, and a Black Dog Models water hydration pack painted
hull using thin wire. I swapped out the kit headlight lenses for
in the CADPAT Arid pattern. I scratch built a handheld GPS and air
shimmering dot lenses and given a coat of dust.
horn and attached them to the commander’s periscope. I kit
I used exposed 35mm film cut into small rectangles to replicate
bashed the two Canadian C8A3 carbines placed on the turret for
the turret and hull periscopes. I find this simple method more
quick access. I added the C6 GPMG to the mount and a photo
effective than painting optics, even in this digital imagery age!
etch ammunition belt was strung from the ammunition box to the
feed tray.
BATTLE READY
The Electronic Counter Measures (ECM) device was positioned to
This Leopard C2 MEXAS project was now complete and battle
the left rear of the loader’s hatch. I added cabling and a retaining
ready. A fun project from start to finish, it provided me challenges
strap to the ECM. I attached three inverted water bottles to the
but great satisfaction with the added details and extremely
right antenna. Canadian crews used the water bottles to insert
aggressive look of the tank. There will certainly be more Canadian
infrared chemical light sticks for night operations. The final detail
Leopard C2 MEXAS builds in my future.
on the turret was to add a couple of photo etch padlocks to the
GPS antenna guard which provided a small amount of bling to the
dusty surfaces.

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LEOPARD

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The idea for this model came via the internet, of course. Ten years ago I
searched Abrams tank photos and found a set of pictures of vehicles in
Germany. Pictures were taken in some exercise and had mud, a lot of mud
on them! The original Abrams was a different type but it was rolling down
hill leaving muddy marks on asphalt road and also kneeling front for both
downhill and weight of the mine plow. This is what I wanted to do! I'm not a
particular fan of modern vehicles, but I gave it a go. The project started 10
years ago when I built and painted a model, all the weathering and the
base was made in 2023. Anyway, the project seems to be easy, so let's hit
it to get it done!

I need to say I love Dragon kits!. Their approach to the subject is perfect
for me, crisp details and separate parts and sub-assemblies, but still not
over engineered. You can build a very well detailed model out of the box
and the results are amazing!

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M1A2 ABRAMS SYSTEM ENHANCEMENT PACKAGE V2

1:35 Jari Hemilä revisits a

ten year ‘shelf-queen’

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:28 Page 46

I started project using DML #3536 Abrams M1A2 SEP kit for a base updated with DEF The turret of the modern tank kit is huge! The work (and
Models M1A2 SEP V2 conversion set made for the base kit. The antennas are from size) of the turret can be compared to a basic WW2 tank,
Orange hobby. The resin M1 machine gun was nice in the DEF kit but I replaced the gun it is a kit inside a kit. Dragon kit has all needed PE parts
tube with superb brass from Aber. for both gages and tow rope holders. The model is
The building was easy to do by following kit instructions and with some earlier experience, completed without any difficulties and is now ready for
the kit turns out nicely. Some extra work was needed when the rear mud flaps were upgrade to V2 stage.
removed. I drilled bolt holes out and then cut flap away and then cleaned attachment
points. I also dropped nose little bit to compensate for the weight of mine plow.

The most visible add-on assembly was the CROWS machine gun. DEF kit
includes a lot of resin parts, the clean up is minimal thanks to proper
design. The machine gun stations are completed with PE parts from both
Like the DML basic kit, DEF Models M1A2 SEP DEF and Aber sets. The loader shield is like other clear parts in DEF kit,
V2 conversion set is amazing! The detailing is casted in clear resin. Some details are made of plastics and wiring made
just like the kit, crisp and parts fit like a glove of copper wire. The window openings can now be masked and are ready
to the model. PE parts can be found just for painting. The Aber M2 is just beautiful!
where they are needed to lift accuracy.

The commander cupola needed some extra care. The top plate needs anti- The mine plow is made by Trumpeter. Following reference pictures found on
slip treatment. Among reference photos, anti-slip texture is applied on the internet, several details are added for better accuracy. Some details are
sectors. At first sectors are masked off with masking tape and then varnished totally missing in the kit so these are made of plastic sheet and strips
with undiluted flat varnish surface. Right after varnish, the silicon carbide was completed with some punch and die bolt heads and nuts. The ski's front
sprinkled over wet varnish and then let dry. The masking tape needs to be ends are modified to present a later model with attachment points for center
removed right away giving us just the correct semi coarse anti-slip surface. plough blade.

The DEF kit includes all clear parts casted in clear resin. The periscope The connecting wire is soldering lead wire partly covered with a protection
openings, like other optics too, are covered with pre-cut prismatic tape parts sock and then connected to a junction box found at DML base kit. The
and then masked with same size masking tape bits. The leftover prismatic transport lock release wires are thin copper and bend like as seen in
tape can be used for other projects, there is material for several other reference photos.
models. The periscope combo is next painted with silver, the top plate
superglued and so ready to be paint like the rest of the vehicle.
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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:28 Page 47

After taking general pictures

of the plastic-ready model,
everything is stripped back to
sub-assemblies to ease paint
work. All parts are now
washed with dish detergent
and then rinsed with warm
tap-water to eliminate greasy
fingerprints. You only need to
wait until the model is dry
and then the real fun begins!

For the Nato brown I lightened

XF-68 with some XF-52 Flat
earth. I found an official M1A2
Abrams camouflage instructions.
I read somewhere that US camo
stripes are at first chalk marked
on base colour due the
instructions and then supervised,
and when within +/- 2", can be
painted. So, in 1:35 scale, the
scheme can differ only max 3mm
between two scale models =).
Again, some recessed parts are
painted with an even lighter tone.

The Tamiya XF-69 Nato Black is

The model is first primered with Mr Surfacer 1200 thinned with again lightened, now with light
Tamiya Yellow cap lacquer thinner. I heavily recommend using green XF-21 Sky. Using the same
lacquer thinner primers specially when the model is both made of additive colours with different
different materials and heavy weathering methods are used. paints gives us harmonized
results.
The Nato Green paint is a mixture of Tamiya paints. I wanted to
use a lighter general tone and this is done by lightening XF-67 with
some XF-3 Yellow and XF-21 Sky keeping colour on a warm,
yellowish tone. Some panels are painted in an even lighter tone but
this effect is kept subtle.

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:28 Page 48

The cupola optics are

prismatic stickers backed with
silver. If you use satin varnish
on your models, remove mask
after varnish layer, otherwise
optics look changes and
The NATO colours are painted!
effect is dampened.

The lights are all painted with

darkish metal colour, my favourite
Citadel Boltgun. The colour is just I made Velcro strips by painting pre cut masking tape with matt black.
perfect and has a nice metal sheen, The strips are then cut to proper length and then placed on the turret
not to mention it dries fast. The tail side following reference pictures as a guide. The duck tape is made in Marking panels are painted with light tan
lights are next painted with clear red a similar way but using neutral gray paint. colour and then kit decals applied on.
and warning light with clear orange.

I saw some loading marks/ stickers on reference photos. Larger

marks look like glued paper sheets, so I masked suitable are with
a masking tape and using white typing correction band, make
"paper". The "weathering" is made by scratching the end with a
hobby knife.

Before painting the mine plough, I made a final check that everything
fits nicely. Both electric cable and steel wires are formed naturally to
follow hull contours and this subassembly can be painted.

Just like the tank itself, the mine plough is To add some interest, random rusty acrylic For a CARC Tan base colour I mixed some Tamiya
primered with Mr Surfacer 1200. Just after colours are applied next. I diluted Lifecolor rust Buff and Deck tan, thinned with their lacquer
cleaning the airbrush, everything is airbrushed set paint heavily, appr 1 part paint and 5 parts thinner. This mixture is airbrushed randomly over
with rusty paint mixes thinned of course with of water. These diluted mixtures are speckled mine plough, but heavier on areas where paint is
Tamiya yellow cap lacquer thinner. over surfaces with an old stiff short bristle paint still left and more thinly where rust is more visible.
brush. This treatment gives us a lot of new For the chipping process we need hand warm tap
random shades of rust. water, paint brush to both moisten the surface and
to make subtle chipping and a stiff brush for heavy
chipping work. The exploded brush is perfect when
working tight places like here between teeth and
blade upper part.

At first moisten the surface with water using a paint

brush to activate hair spray. After a few strokes,
paint starts to lift up revealing rusty colour beneath.

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:28 Page 49

After chipping is completed The faded, Nato green is from Ammo range
and CARC Tan paintwork thinned with water. The green is airbrushed
dry, everything is sealed randomly over the blades and hull and then
with a couple of thin layers chipped like in the previous step. After chipping is
of flat varnish. A new layer dry, the mine plough is airbrushed with a layer of
of chipping fluid is pure lacquer thinner to smooth it down and to
airbrushed on. ensure there are no orange peels on it. The
paintwork is now sealed with a couple of thin layers
of flat varnish.

The wide markers

are fitted and wiring
painted with suitable
acrylics. The mine
plough is ready for
weathering!

Painting completed! The

next step is lower hull
weathering.

Even this area is non visible later, all details are

picked up with heavy general wash. I used
Wilder's Deep shadow wash. This wash is 2 in 1,
it pick-up details and works as a shadow colour
too, so no special cleaning was needed at all.
Heavy mad was then added, again barely visible
on the finished model.

A few wheels are painted with CARC Tan to

give some variance of paintwork. The rubber
The tracks and wheels now needed their base parts are quickly masked with a circular plate After airbrushing a flat black base-coat over the tracks
colours. The gray primered wheels rubber parts and then airbrushed with Tamiya paints. The the polished steel parts are next painted with Boltgun
are painted with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber paint. rest of the wheels are painted with Nato green. metal using a paintbrush.

The road wheels get next to a The final step for wheels was to
thick layer of dry mud. I also polish metal parts with graphite
use Wilder's Light Europe pen and to add a dull dust coat
textured earth TE11. Now its my favourite part, speckling with with Dry mud pigment. Wheels
After the dry mud is dry, I let it both Dark rainmarks and Brown mud and tracks can now be
The details are picked up with very dark dry overnight, next layer Dark splatter. This step gives us an ultra realistic attached to the hull.
pinwash and after drying for about 15 min, brown TE03 is applied to appearance blending previous steps and
blended with fresh enamel thinner. present moisturized mud. Let it giving a realistic appearance.
also dry overnight.

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:28 Page 50

The tracks are washed first with

heavily thinned Light dry mud effect
to give a dusty general appearance.
The light mud has dried for a couple
of hours, so we can add darker fresh
mud tone on areas where moistened The tracks are also speckled with both After the final assembly was done, and even the model looks very good to
mud concentrates. When adding same weathering effects like wheels. me, I put my M1A2 in a box and shelved this project for 10 years. Every now
washes over the still wet previous, After the speckling is dried an hour, we and then it happens and I'm sure I'm not alone...
colours blend themselves giving us a can slightly wipe excess of with a dry
very realistic effect. makeup sponge. After opening the box again, I had a clear view what to do. First, mine plough
teeth are painted with a shiny Ammo Steel colour.

On upper surfaces I took a different

approach to weathering. I wanted to add
The detailed pin washes are now on row. A very dark brown oil The mine plough skis and parts of the some earth on the upper parts too. This
colour mixture is thinned with some enamel thinner and then just lower hull got some fresh mud. The acrylic was replicated by adding sand fixed with
touching the detail with a long bristle liner paint brush, the mud has both volume and texture and scenery glue. The sand needs to be
capillary action does the work, mainly, even the model is not after drying overnight, is hard as a rock. If formed dry for example with Tamiya paint
varnished with satin varnish. Somehow the oil pinwashes work needed, it can be blended with some tap stirrer and dry paintbrush and the glue
better than enamel washes, at least for me. water right after it is applied. Some fine drops are applied with eyedropper without
After dark brown pinwashes dry they turn flat. The washes are sand was sprinkled over the paste when touching sand. The capillary action will do
then blended with a small paintbrush moistened with enamel still wet. the job. The glue dries within half an hour.
thinner.

All the sanded areas are next being airbrushed

randomly with a dust mixture. Idea is here to both
unify colours and also to blend sandy and muddy
areas to the surfaces.

The sand will be next coloured with enamel washes.

The Ammo Dry steppe effect is diluted as heavy as
wash and then applied to sanded areas with
paintbrush. Using sand areas as a guide, wash is
The next step is predusting. I applied randomly over surfaces. After a few minutes
made a mixture of Tamiya paints, the excess can be removed and/or blended with a
XF-52 Flat earth, XF-55 Deck tan paintbrush moistened with enamel thinner leaving a
and XF-63 German grey mixed light dusty general wash on model.
together, mixing ratio is appr 5:2:1.

Now it is a second earth colour wash round. We start with Wet ground Some detail painting is still needed. The rusty exhaust and exhaust
straight from the jar and apply small quantities of dark wash using cover are first painted with light pinkish colour and then chipped with
previously applied dry wash as a guide. Again, blend the edges where Vallejo Black brown, THE Chipping colour, using both paint brush and
needed and then let dry for 2 hours. The final wash effect is Dark brown. sponge.
With this wash, the darkest tones are applied on smaller surfaces than
previously applied Earth, but using them as a guide.. After the dark wash is The rusty areas are next washed with Ammo Streaking rust straight
blended, the model can be put aside and let it dry completely. from the jar and then let dry. The final exhaust effect is to paint some
black exhaust soot over rusty areas airbrushing highly diluted Tamiya
XF-1, again following reference pictures as a guide

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:28 Page 51

The base 35x16cm was cut off a 40mm foam The asphalt section was covered with Ammo Acrylic To present a dry grass roadside, I wanted to add
sheet and laminated with two layers. The upper Asphalt for dioramas. The paste was spread over some grass on base. For this we need some static
layer was thermo-cut to make a slight slope, a the base un-diluted with an artist palette knife.and grass, here both 3mm and 6 mm sizes, PVA glue
ditch was cut and the road section covered with then lined with steel ruler. Only a thin 1mm film is and to make living even easier, a cheap static grass
3mm cork. The base was then framed, 1-2mm more than enough. The terrain area was covered applicator from Amazon. It is recommended to
taller than the XP sheet height, with 0,4mm birch with ammo dry earth paste. The acrylic pastes need work on small areas at once, this size area can be
plywood. The plywood was attached with 2 sided to dry overnight. The next day the asphalt area is done in 2 steps.
tape and then corners and seams are secured sanded with a sanding stick giving a very realistic
with CA glue. surface, no need to paint it at all.

Repeat the process now with taller grass. I used The road markings are painted next. The middle
too light coloured grass, I recommend using and side lane marks are masked and then both
darker coloured grass to see it when applied. The the grass area and rest of asphalt is covered with
colour is otherwise equal, everything is painted The grass area is now primed with the Mr different width maskíng tapes.
anyway soon. I also planted some taller grass cut Mahogany Surfacer The dark brown primer gives The road markings are painted with Mr Colour off
from a big paintbrush.The PVA glue dries quickly, us nature shadows but also defines some next white and after removing masks, the nearly perfect
so after an hour, the base was ready for priming. steps. road markings are done.

The grass is painted next with Tamiya Flat earth tone, to I started to paint taller dry
both give us more shades but also harmonize autumn grass with Tamiya Dark yellow,
colours in both grass and earth. The toothsticks are for continuing with Dark yellow The fresher, shorter grass is painted with Tamiya Nato green
marking road signs. lightened with white. and then lightened with Yellow green.

With the grass painted, it was time to hit the road again. The track pad The general dust is made with a heavy wash of Dry Steppe.
areas are covered with Wet Ground Splashes effect. The stuff was added With the mud washes done, it's time to paint the frame to get a
heavily, leaving different size lumps. I prepared a ‘stamp’ with DML tracks neat finish. At first the upper edge is painted with Vallejo black
by gluing them on a plastic strip. by paintbrush and then the rest of the frame is airbrushed with
With this tool, track tread marks are pushed to the paste. Tamiya Flat black.

The marker poles are made of plastic strips, two 1.5x1.5mm

strips glued together. The poles are painted white with a black
angled stripe. The reflectors are made of plastic strip cut to
size and round ones are made with a punch and die set. The
traffic sign is from Tamiya Leopard 2A6 kit.

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:28 Page 52

The final step is to add some

random dry leaves around the
roadside and ditch. The leaves are
super glued and then some
random very diluted washes are
speckled around scenery.

We can at last call this model

finished and done... After 10 years!

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:28 Page 53

53
AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:28 Page 54

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:30 Page 56

SENDS THE NEW MAGIC FACTORY M2A2 STRAIGHT

TO COMBAT IN DEFENCE OF UKRAINE

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:30 Page 57

The U.S. Bradley Infantry Fighting supplied IFVs were old Soviet work horses such as
Vehicle has a long and interesting history and the T64 BVs and BMR 2s both types fitted with
Tamiya, Meng and Academy have released a clattering KMT mine rollers. Other vehicles
number of Brad variants over the years. Zack Sex included in the breaching phase of the operation
brings his particular take with Magic Factory's had been donated by Finland in the form of
highly detailed new M2A2 kit fresh off the press , radically altered Leopard 2R converted to combat
to produce a Ukrainian Bradley with its distinct engineering vehicles equipped with giant Pearson
camouflage and adds some personal detail to mine ploughs. Yurii Antonov peered from the
this vehicle that is playing such a now vital role M2A2 commander's hatch as the morning sun
with Ukrainian defenders. began to come up, the lush foliage seemed to
offer good cover ,as his mind flashed back to his
It was early in the morning as the Zaporizhzhia recent training in Germany. Yurii spoke to his
landscape rumbled into life , with diesel engines driver Vasilishin Denis or "Dendy" over the vehicle
chugging out acrid fumes and steel tracks tearing intercom, both men knew much was expected of
up the fertile rich soil of Mala Tokmachka. this long awaited summer offensive. All seemed
The German made Leopard 2A6s (or "kittens" as fine at first until all of a sudden the rumble of
Ukrainian troops refer to them) , formed up along explosions erupted along the tree line ahead of
side the Bradley M2A2s , in amongst the US them.
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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:30 Page 58

These initial landmine explosions ( both clearing

charges and actual detonations ) were soon followed
by direct hits scored on vehicles from ATGMs ,
artillery and the dreaded Lancet kamazie drones. The
Russians had been waiting for them , and now all hell
let lose. This opening phase of the Ukrainian Summer
Offensive turned out to be a masterclass in how not
to attack a well dug in and heavily armed adversary ,
who's had plenty of time to prepare giant defensive
mine fields.

Yurii and his crew unlike a number M2A2 Bradleys,Leopards and older IFVs such as Soviet designed BMP 1 and 2 designs but more
other vehicles would survive this initial phase of the operations to importantly to crew and troops a dramatic increase in crew
liberate Ukrainian sovereign territory, only for Dendy to die in a FPV survivability should it be hit but enemy ATGMs , RPGs and a range
drone attack near Robotine several months later , such is sadly of other ordinance from land mines to drones. This was precisely
the fate of many Ukrainian AFV crews in the last two years of the situation in Mals Tokmachka in early June 2023 where a
brutal combat with Vladimir Putin's genocidal invasion force. sizable number of Ukrainian M2A2s were knocked out or damaged
but many crews lived to fight another day . With all of this in mind I
The US Bradley program both M2 and M3 started life with a fairly was determined to build a Ukrainian M2A2 Bradley IFV as this
simple aim of creating a new battle taxi to replace in effect the engagement seemed to me to show the determination of the
highly successful M113 , those aims and objectives changed Ukrainians to resist Putin imperial aggression what ever the cost
however to include scout, reconnaissance and the addition of a as the 47th independent brigade fought their way into Russian
cannon armed turret along with ATGMs in the form of double TOW lines in a heroic but fruitless attempt to force a breach in the
launcher unit. This led to a series of redesigns and alterations invaders defensive positions.
before any metal was forged or cast , it also spawned a highly
entertaining Hollywood movie named after the book of the same
name " Pentagon Wars" in which author Lieutenant Colonel
James G. Burton tracks the amusing if
not slightly crazy evolution of the Bradley
system. Check it out on YouTube it's a
blast, and in one ten minute segment it
catalogues the reactions to the changing
demands of the US top brass over the
years as the portraits of US presidents
change on the walls of the various military
offices. In the end the US got to distinct
variants the M2 and M3 variants. The M2 is
essentially a standard infantry fighting
vehicle with a crew of three and fighting
compartment capable of carrying six fully
armed troops, while the M3 is primarily a
reconnaissance and scout vehicle again with
a crew of three but room for two recon troops
and a bunch more BGM-71 TOW missiles.
Ukrainian forces received about 186 M2A2
ODS along with 4 M7 BFIST are targeting
vehicles. As such these vehicles offered a
massive increase in accurate firepower over

58
AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:30 Page 59

Bradley Building
My first idea having scanned all available kits ( Meng's M3 looked great on the kit. The detail on the areas such as the upper turret
great but was an M3 and not an M2 )was to update now elderly with the extra 3d printed parts are the kind of construction that
Tamiya M2A2 , this would involve changing the tracks for the new you just want to sit and look at after a night work. Some parts I left
wider to pad type , a driver's armoured camera unit along with off till painting was complete but also added some crew stowage
extensive redesigned armour plating on many of the vehicle's in the form of a US water can, ruck sacks and wooden segments
surfaces. The more I investigated it the more I was reluctant to as seen in reference photos. One last detail which I must mention
attack that particular project. Then news came of a new Chinese was Dendy's boots in the spare wheel on the front of the vehicle, a
kit manufacturer releasing a number of M2A2 variants from the late addition along with the removal of the gunner's metal rob
Ukrainian ones to more advanced US variants with anti drone sight not used on Ukrainian vehicles as mentioned to me by
defenses. At 53 euros having examined images on the web I took Ukrainian Bradley commander Yurii Antonov again later during the
the plunge and the kit promptly arrived in a large sturdy box with a build.
myriad of etch parts, BRAT or Bradley Reactive Armour Tiles as an
option. The etch set was set out between to sheets sticky plastic
with all parts sitting independently of etch frame, so no need for
cutting or sanding, just simply pick parts off with a tweezers. The
detailed parts are very well done being nice and crisp and the
plastic is high quality with a certain flexibility.
On a possible downside there are a few injection mould marks on
the face of the tracks so they need filling and the guide horns are
not hollow as they should be, but these are really not major issues.
After a few evenings of construction I had the kit basically
assembled in four sub assemblies hull, turret and each sides
armoured side skirts with all the various etched clasps which look

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AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:30 Page 60

Doing the Digital

With construction complete we now get to potentially the tricky were the light green / Olive sections of camouflage these were
bit...the digital camouflage and not your normal Ukrainian style painted on in the general area, in layers using a mix of acrylics
with a few Lego block patterns here and there. No the digital and then suitably masked with the appropriate rectangles and
camouflage patterns are diverse and interesting on the M2A2 of squares cut from the Tamiya masking tape, care had to be taken
Ukraine's 47th brigade they also vary in style and colour from around turret areas and also around the buckle fittings on the side
overall shiny dark green to a more professional looking pattern area plates. The whole digital camouflage phase was then
which comes with the markings and art work provided by Magic wrapped up with an over spray of the entire model using a suitably
Factory. More recently I had built ICM's Kozak 2 which came with dark green in the form of Tamiya Japanese Army Green XF-13\.
really outstanding digital camouflage decals, but Magic Factory do This creates a strong contrast to the digital segments of sand and
not go this far, so it's out with a mini steel rule , scalpel and Tamiya light green. Having taken two days to carefully apply the masking
masking tape along with a flat piece of black plastic on which I sections I was nevertheless nervous of how they would turn out,
can stick the tape cut the squares and rectangles. These are then as I gently picked each section of masking away. I must say I was
teased up at the edges with a scalpel and picked up with a surprised that the camouflage pattern turned out particular
tweezers. I found this system served me well in cutting out initial well,which must be a tribute to the Tamiya masking tape and low
test patterns. First however I would need to prime and prepare the pressure air brush that applied the paint without any leakage
first layer of the digital camo with consisted of Humbrol acrylic under the tape and gave a nice consistent coverage. The digital
sand from a spray can. This is a good hard coat and essentially camouflage had the look of a Minecraft or Lego pattern when
base colour for the camouflage. This was then masked off with an freshly applied but I knew with the degree of weathering washes
eye to some reference photos I collected and the handy colour and pigments I was going to apply that it would be a good basis
profile in the kit instructions. The segment or set of digital colours for further work, so far so good I thought.

60
AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:30 Page 61

Decals and Dirt

At this point I had applied the digital camouflage on the side surfaces of the hull
and turret and couldn't resist some lower hull and chassis weathering to get a
feel for the subject. However I resisted the urge go any further and decided to
get the decals applied before going to far. The decals look great and seem very
accurate according to my reference photos, however a number of issues
occurred they seem a little thick or at least determined not to sit down into the
detailed areas for me. On area such as the sides of the vehicle I cut away the
decal film so the decals would not have to fit over the etch buckles or tie downs.
I also applied Decal sol softener and fixer but found it didn't give me the result I
expected , in the end some very carefully surgery on raised bolts with judiciously
applied washes and filters in areas around bolt heads gave me the desired
results and in most areas the decals were not a problem.

This achieved the model still needed a certain something and Ichiro Yoshida
suggested some dark pin washes and scrapes, I dutifully applied some black oil
paint washes and some gentle surgical scalpel scrapes around the hull and
turret, the results were strong and effective and changed to composition giving it
a slightly dark and atmospheric vibe, which I always like.

Along with applying black and pains grey oil paint washes mixed with small
amounts of Raw Umber, I speckled and splattered Wilder pigments such Russian
earth and dried mud. Over this I applied some small amounts of Mig productions
dried earth pigments directly to the hull, turret and wheels which was then
washed down with white spirits but in the natural direction in which gravity would
direct it, the road lights were painted orange and silver on the back surface of
each item and then glued into position with PVA. These were then speckled with
pigments and gently rubbed clean. At this point I built a simple rectangular base
out of packaging styrofoam, plaster and mounting board over which I applied a
mix of plaster, small pebbles and sand. Over this I applied a sprinkling of some
garden earth from my father's glass house.

A few railway set tree branches created a small bush to the front of the diorama
and it gave the composition a bit of visual diversity.

61
AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:30 Page 62

At this point I was nearing the end of what had become a fairly
involved little project when I got into an online conversation with one
Mr Yurii Antonov who has been a Bradley commander since the
start of Putin's invasion. Yurii pointed it out to me that the folding
metal bar sights on the US turret are not used on the Ukrainian
variants , so off it came. Along with these details Yurii showed me a
number of photos of his particular Bradley , in one shot I could see a
spare wheel with what looked like two logs of wood in its centre.
Upon asking Yurii what was the use of the logs , he replied "Those
are my driver Dendy's boots" well this was a detail I had to add and
so I knocked it up out a pair of 1/35 boots and an inside wheel from
the Magic factory kit which I'd replaced with a Tamiya example. It
was only after showing Yurii the finished detail that he informed me
that Dendy or Vasilishin Denis one of the best drivers in the brigade
had died in action near Robotine, a victim of a Russian FPV drone
strike .

So I dedicate this little article to the memory of Vasilishin Denis, one

many Ukrainians who have thus far given their lives so that Ukraine
can be free. On that sombre note I say take care of yourselves and
Slava Ukraini.

62
AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:30 Page 63

63
AFV-136 may/june 2024.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/04/2024 16:30 Page 64

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