D’source 1
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye
by
Konark Ashara
IDC, IIT Bombay
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 2
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource Introduction
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye Bandhani is one of the famous textile patterns in India. Bandhani of Gujarat is very famous in India. It’s traditional
by textile of Gujarat. Wadhwan city in Surendranagar district has largest production of these textiles. In Wadhwan
Konark Ashara town around 75% of families work in this profession. The process of making one Bhandhani is long. This process
is complicated and there are so many different skilled craft’s men and women are involved in it. In this project
IDC, IIT Bombay
I have covered the process of Bhandhani making and how everybody is involve in it and their role in process of
making Bandhani.
Download:
Resource on Process of Bandhani.Pdf
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/
introduction
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 3
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource Place Wadhwan Town
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye City of Wadhwan is situated in Surendranagar district of Gujarat. Wadhwan produces largest amount of Bandani
by materials in Gujarat. The Bandhani products of Wadhwan are affordable to common people. 75% of Wadhwan
Konark Ashara population is engaged in this business in one or the other way. Business of Bandhani was started in wadhwan by
the Brahmkshtriya (Khatri) community and still most of the brahmkshtriyas are involved in this business. Now
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days other communities are also getting involved in this business. Main reason for this is that Wadhwan’s band-
hani is famous in Gujarat and in other parts of India. Water of Wadhwan is one of the key reason for the devel-
opment of this business here. Wadhwan is also the place where the Bandhani was born. Wadhwan’s soil was also
a reason for development of this business. In olden days when colours where made from the natural elements
the soil of Wadhwan had widest range of colours available at that time. Later with time, due to modernization
and competition now they do not use the natural colour any more. The bandhani of Wadhwan was so famous
Source: that other royal families of the state and country also use to buy bandhani from Wadhwan. Surendranagar pro-
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/ duces high amount of quality cotton, so good quality cloths were also available here. Because of these reasons
place-wadhwan-town Wadhwan and It’s Bandhani are famous.
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 4
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource Cloth Cutting
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye Wholesaler buys the cloth from the market and sends it to the person who transfers the design on the cloths.
by As soon as cloths arrives this person, cut the cloth according to the design. Since Bandhani is a textile pattern
one can make Panjabi Dress as well as Saree from bandhani. So the cloth is cut according to the kind of the dress
Konark Ashara
it will be. The cloth from the wholesaler comes in different sizes of width and length according to their require-
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ment. The person who cuts the cloth he is the one who transfers design on the cloth. Hence after cutting he sits
to transfer the design through Farma.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/
cloth-cutting
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 5
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource Farma
Process of Bandhani Farma is a transparent plastic sheet, on which the design is created first. This design is created Either by Profes-
The craft of Tie and Dye sional Designer or by Wholesaler or sometimes by the craft peoplethemselves. In this case, the craft person is the
by designer and he sells his design to the wholesaler. Oncethe design is approved they create small pin holes in the
Konark Ashara plastic sheet. With the help of these pin holes Design is transferred on the cloth.
IDC, IIT Bombay
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/
farma
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 6
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource Transfering Design on Cloth
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye Once the Farma is ready they lay bundle of the cut cloth on the ground. Then they put Farma on top of it. Then
by with the help of the colour water and Squeeze they transfer the design on cloth. Since the size of the cloth is big,
for good transfer, this process requires two people to do it. Once the Design transfer is done this person sends
Konark Ashara
this transferred cloth to the wholesaler who, later Distributes to the ladies who during their free time do the
IDC, IIT Bombay
“Bandhej” work.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/
transfering-design-cloth
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 7
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource Distribution for Bandhej
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye Once the design is transferred and delivered to the wholesaler, he distributes this cloths to the Ladies. Bandhejis
by mostly done by women. These women come to the wholesaler everyday to collect the new design for Bandhej
and to return the ready Bandhej which then goes for colouring. When these ladies come to collect the cloth for
Konark Ashara
Bandhej, along with the cloth, they are provided with thread rolls. These ladies have accounts with the wholesal-
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er. He writes and maintains the account for them and pays them accordingly. The payment of these Bandhej is
decided by ladies after looking at the design and detail of the work. Smaller the Bandhej more charge and it also
varies on the amount of Bandhej needed to be done. In the next chapter I will be explain the porcess of Bandhej.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/
distribution-bandhej
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 8
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource Bandhani Bandhej
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye Bandhej means tieing knots in the specific pattern. This knot is tied because when this tied cloth goes to colour
by this knot doesn’t let that part catch colour so it stays white or whatever colour of cloth has. Bandhej is the main
Konark Ashara part of the bandhani making. Bandhej is the process which is repeated many times in the making of one Band-
hani. Every bandani mostly has bandhej two times. First time when it’s distributed to Ladies for bandej and then
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when it goes colour. If the bandhani has two colours as base colour then the people who colour the cloth, also tie
a big bandhej which is different than the small bandhej done by ladies based on design. Basically there are two
types of Bandhej:
• Bandhej for design
• Bandhej for basic colour
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/ Bandhej for Design
bandhani-bandhej This Process is mostly done by women at home. So once the distribution of design cloths is done to these wom-
en, they do the bandhej at home. Bandhej for design is a very fine small bandhej which needs time and accuracy.
Once this bandhej is done it goes back to wholesaler and they send this cloth for colouring. Once the colour is
1. Introduction done if design needs more bandhej, then it again goes to the ladies for one more bandhej and then again for
colouring.
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting Bandhej for Basic colour
4. Farma This Bandhej is done when the cloth is sent for the colour and it is done by the person who is colouring the cloth.
This bandhej is done using polythene and plastic thread as shown in photo. After this bandhej it goes for the col-
5. Transfering Design on Cloth our. After colour this polythene are used again for the bandhej for other similar bandhej. If the design demands
6. Distribution for Bandhej more small and different bandhej it again goes for design bandhej. If not then after colour they left it open to sky
7. Bandhani Bandhej to dry. In summer it takes around 4-5 hours to dry, in monsoon sometime it takes 2 days to dry in and in winter it
8. Bandhani Dying takes 6-7 hours to dry.
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 9
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye
by
Konark Ashara
IDC, IIT Bombay
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/
bandhani-bandhej
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 10
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource Bandhani Dying
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye After Bandhej for Colour is done it goes for colour. It is not necessary that every piece of design have Bandhej
by for Colour. Some might have only design Bandhej. This kind of cloth directly goes for colour. Again the person
Konark Ashara who has designed it decides colours. In olden days the colours used were natural colours but now a days they use
artificial colours.
IDC, IIT Bombay
For making this colour they use below listed materials. This combination can colour around 40 pieces of cloth:
Colour - 350 gm
Alum - 350 gm.
Sodium- 175 gm
Powder - 50 gm
Source: Sulphate Sodium - 50 gm
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/ Water - until it mixture become paste
bandhani-dying-0 Acid - 150 gm
Once the colour is made then they dip cloths into it for around 1 -1.5 minutes per cloth. Then it goes for drying.
1. Introduction This process is used when base colour is light and the colour, which will now be added, is dark. If it is other way
round they have to do another process, which is called ‘wet colouring’. In that materials are same but it is done
2. Place Wadhwan Town on the stove. After colour it goes for Drying or for removing Bandhej.
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 11
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye
by
Konark Ashara
IDC, IIT Bombay
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/
bandhani-dying-0
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 12
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource Bandhani Drying
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye The drying is done on the terrace. Drying takes some time depending upon the weather conditions. In monsoon
by it takes around 1.5-2 days to dry while in summer it takes only 4-5 hours. In winter it takes around 6-7 hours for
Konark Ashara drying. After Drying if there is more bandhej required, then it goes for bandhej through wholesaler or through
the colour person depending upon the deal. If there is no more requirement of any Bandhej then it directly goes
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to wholesaler and wholesaler sends it to retailer. In between this sometime de-knoting of bandhej happens
depending upon design. Small amount of de-knoting happens at retailer’s end. Wholesaler never does anything.
Last process of the bandhni is De-knoting and Packing.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/
bandhani-drying
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 13
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
Process of Bandhani
The craft of Tie and Dye TThis part of the process takes place at the retailers end. When they get the bandhni from wholesaler they have
by to iron it and pack it. During packing it the retailer does the deknoting of the bandej. Sometimes they hire some-
body for this work. Then it goes on display inside the shop, from where customer buys it and gives that to tailor
Konark Ashara
for stitching.
IDC, IIT Bombay
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/
bandhani-untieing-bandhej
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town
3. Cloth Cutting
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
D’source 14
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
Design Resource
Process of Bandhani Contact Details
The craft of Tie and Dye This documentation was done by Konark Ashara, Visual Communication at
by IDC, IIT Bombay.
Konark Ashara
IDC, IIT Bombay You can get in touch with him at konarkashara[at]gmail.com
You could write to the following address regarding suggestions and clarifications:
Helpdesk details:
Co-ordinator
Source: Project e-kalpa
http://www.dsource.in/resource/process-bandhani/ Industrial Design Centre
contact-details IIT Bombay
Powai
Mumbai 400076
India
1. Introduction
2. Place Wadhwan Town Phone: 091-22-25767820/7801/7802
3. Cloth Cutting Fax: 091-22-25767803
email: dsource.in[at]gmail.com
4. Farma
5. Transfering Design on Cloth
6. Distribution for Bandhej
7. Bandhani Bandhej
8. Bandhani Dying
9. Bandhani Drying
10.Bandhani-Untieing Bandhej
11.Contact Details
