Tulip Fingerless
Mittens
Crochet pattern
by Sandra Gutierrez
*This pattern is for personal use. I do not authorize the sale or distribution of the pattern
itself or the pictures in it. The finished item may be sold or distributed. However, I ask for it to
be credited as a Nomad Stitches design. Thank you.
Materials:
Approximately 100 m of fingering (size 1)
Recommended: Drops Yarn, Flora (fingering).
Scrap strands in 2 different colors
4.5 mm
Tapestry needle
Gauge: 11sc x 13 sc rows = 2” x 2”
Abbreviations (US):
sc: simple crochet sp: space: the hole below the chain from
hdc:half double crochet the previous row.
ch: chain 5-dc cl: Triple double crochet cluster: [yo,
st: stitch insert hook through st,draw through, yo,
sl: slip stitch pull through 2 loops] 5 times on the same
sk: skip stitches or spaces st, draw through all 6 loops on the hook.
RS: Right side rep *to*: repeat from the first asterisk (*) to
WR: Wrong side the second one (*) as many times as
Sc2tog: simple crochet two together indicated.
MC: Main Color V-st: make a dc, ch1, make another dc on
CC: Contrasting Color the same st, sk2st, continue along.
Inc 1sc: increase: make 2sc instead of 1.
This pattern comes in 1 size.
Important techniques:
Invisible seam on the round - joining with a slst
Start the row by making 1 chain and tightening it firmly. Make your first stitch is on the st
immediately at the base of your chain.
Tightened
chain
1
First st of
the round
immediately
after ch
Work the round as indicated.
When you reach the end, join the round with a sl st on the first st of the round and tighten
the slst firmly.
Tightened
slst
Continue with the next round.
Changing colors at the end of a round:
When you finish the round, insert your Finish the sl st by passing the new color
hook through the first st of the round and yarn through all of the loops on the hook
yarn over the new color. Let the old color (slst).
drop.
Continue on with the round as indicated
using the new color.
2
Cuff: With MC
Ch13 or more (as many as the desired length of the cuff)
Row 1: starting on the 2nd ch from your hook, sc along until the end of the row, turn (12 sts)
Row 2: starting on the 1st st, loosely slst along until the end of the row, turn (12 sts)
Row 3: ch1, sc on each of the sl sts from the prev row, turn. (12 sts)
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 37 rows worked.
Join the last row of sc with the beginning chain with sl sts on the RS. Don’t cut.
2
Main Body: to be worked in the round- use the invisible seam technique
You’ll continue to work on the side of the cuff.
Row 1: ch1, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the side edge of the cuff (make sure you
fit 39 sts). slst to join the round.
Row 2: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round, change to CC A
and sl st to join the round, cut MC (39 sts).
Row 3: With CC A, ch1, tighten, ch2 (counts as a st), ch1, dc on the st at the base of the ch4
(this counts like your first V st) *make a V st* rep *to* until the end of the round, change to
CC B and sl st on the 3rd ch from the beginning to join the round, cut CCA (13 Vsts - 39 sts)
3
Row 4: With CC B, ch3 (ch3 counts like a st, tighten 1st ch), *make a 5-dc cl on the next
ch1sp from the V st on the prev row, ch2* rep *to* 11 times, make a 5-dc cl on the next
ch1sp from the V st on the prev row, ch1, change to MC and sl st on 3rd ch from the
beginning to join the round, cut CC B (13 5-dc cl, 39 sts)
Row 5: With MC, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round: 2sc in
each chsp, slst to join the round. (39 sts)
Row 6: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round, slst to join the
round. (39 sts)
4
Start Thumb:
(RIGHT THUMB) Row 7: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, 29sc (place a
marker on the 29th st), inc 1 st on the next 2 sts, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (41
sts)
(LEFT THUMB) Row 7: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, 8sc (place a marker
on the 7th st), inc 1 st on the next 2 sts, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (41 sts).
*you will need to carry the marker on the same stitch for the next 15 rows. The easiest way
to do this is to use a scrap piece of yarn and put it over the actively working strand before
the marked st is to be worked on every row.
Marker
Marked st
across
multiple
rows
Row 8 - 9: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to
the next row, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (41 sts)
Row 10: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the
next row, inc 1 st, 2sc, inc 1st, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (43 sts)
Row 11 - 12: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to
the next row, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (43 sts)
Row 13: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the
next row, inc 1 st, 4sc, inc 1st, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (45 sts)
Row 14 - 15: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to
the next row, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (45 sts)
Row 16: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the
next row, inc 1 st, 6sc, inc 1st, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (47 sts)
5
Row 17 - 18: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to
the next row, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (47 sts)
Row 19: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the
next row, inc 1 st, 8sc, inc 1st, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (49 sts)
Row 20 - 21: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to
the next row, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (49 sts)
Row 22: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the
next row, inc 1 st, 10sc, inc 1st, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (51 sts)
Row 23: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker, remove marker,
ch2, sk 14sts, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (39 sts)
Row 24: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round: 1sc on each st,
1sc on each ch, slst to join. (39sts)
Row 25-32: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the end of the round, slst
to join. (39 sts)
Row 33 ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the end of the round, change
to CC A and sl st to join the round, don’t cut MC (39 sts).
Row 34: With CC A, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the end of the
round, change colors to CC B before the slst join, cut CC A. (39 sts)
6
Row 35: With CC B, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, *sc, ch1, sk1st,* rep *to*
until the end of the round, change colors to MC by picking up the strand left 2 rows back
before the slst join, cut CC B. (39 sts)
Row 36: With MC, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round: 1sc
on each st, 1sc on each chsp, slst to join. (39 sts)
Row 37: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, hdc along the round, slst to join.
(39 sts)
Row 38: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, hdc along working only on the
loop at the back of the st (behind the “v”), slst to join. (39 sts)
Loop at
the back
Front two
loops (V)
7
Row 39: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along working only on the loop
at the back of the st, slst to join. Fasten off and cut. (39 sts)
Thumb
Row 1: Attach yarn to the unused loop from the right chain made on row 23 on the RS,
here
ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc on the ch, sc on the corner st, 14 sc along
the thumb edge, sc on the corner st, sc on the other ch from row 23, slst to join. (18 sts)
corner
8
Row 2: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc2tog, 14sc along the round, sc2tog,
slst to join. (16 sts)
Row 3: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc2tog, 12sc along the round, sc2tog,
slst to join. (14 sts)
Row 4: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round, slst to join. (14
sts)
Row 5: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round, change colors to
CCA and slst to join, don’t cut MC. (14 sts)
Row 6: With CCA, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round,
change colors to CCB and slst to join, cut CC A. (14 sts)
Row 7: With CCB, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, *sc, ch1* rep *to* until the
end of the round, change colors to MC by picking up the strand and slst to join, cut CC B.
(14 sts)
Row 8: With MC, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round (1sc on
each st, 1 sc on each chsp), slst to join. (14 sts)
Row 9: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, hdc along the round, slst to join. (14
sts)
Row 10: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, hdc along working only on the loop
at the back of the st (behind the “v”), slst to join. (14 sts)
Row 11: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along working only on the loop
at the back of the st, slst to join. (14 sts)
9
Finishing touches:
● Weave in all ends.
● Block your work.
Thank you for making my pattern! I hope you enjoyed the process and that your mittens
fits just right. Please contact me if you have any questions or comments at
nomadstitchesdesigns@gmail.com. And if you would like to see more Nomad Stitches
designs, visit my shop at www.NomadStitches.com or find me on Instagram
@nomadstitches. Don’t forget to tag your work #forevernomad #nomadstitches.
Happy Stitching!
Sandra
10
