Chapter 13 (Crinoline Era)
1. Barege- Emily Prueitt, Jillian Hohnholz
Summary: The Barege dress was known because of the material out of which it was
made. Barege was known as “a sheer fabric of open weave for women's clothing
usually made of wool in combination with silk or cotton”. This fabric was likely
popular for the dresses of the time because it would have been of high quality, good
for various types of weather, and light to heavy weight depending on the fiber
content and desire for the occasion. They wore lighter weight fabrics because of the
heat. This type of dress was popular in the 1860’s.
Source 1- https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/barege
Source 2-https://historicalsewing.com/mid-victorian-sheer-dresses#:~:text=In%20the
%201860s%20women%20made,or%20printed%20cottons%20were%20fashionable.
Source 3- https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/791/
2. Basque - Annie and Brianne
A basque was a type of woman’s bodice. The bodices have lots of trim and
ornamentation. They seem to be very tailored, fitted items of clothing. Not like the
jackets we are familiar with today. Instead, it is more of a very structured top. They
would not have been removed, and would have been paired with a matching or
coordinating skirt. It was part of the ensemble, not simply an accessory.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basque_%28clothing%29
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/tag/basque-bodice/
https://www.businessoffashion.com/education/fashion-az/basque
3. Bloomer-Kyla Pratt
Bloomers were a type of baggy undergarment worn underneath longer dresses. They
were gathered at the waist and hit below the knee. Eventually they grew into statements
for feminists. Women would wear shorter, knee-length dresses and longer bloomers,
almost trouser-like that were tied at the ankle. This was called the bloomer costume. It
originally started because of stiff petticoats and heavy skirts inhibiting women’s
movement and even affecting their health.
Sources: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/bloomers/
https://aubreyshuga.wordpress.com/the-crinoline-period-1850-1869/
https://fashion-era.com/fashion-history/victorians/victorian-bloomers
4. Braces: Sam Carter, Sarah Smith
English Braces were another word for Suspender. In 1894, metal clasps
were invented, suspenders were manufactured to be clipped onto the
trousers instead of being buttoned- which was far more comfortable.
Originating in France in the 18th century, the suspenders more commonly
known now were created in the 1830s. They were used when high waisted
pants were popular for men and could not be held up by a belt.
Suspenders became less popular in the 20h century when trousers were
no longer worn so high. Though doctors would recommend men with
rounder physiques to wear them.
Sources
https://baronbretelle.com/blogs/the-daily-suspender/the-history-of-suspenders
Survey of Historic CostumesPg. 371
https://hikersco.com/blogs/innovative-suspenders/the-history-of-suspenders-from-
suspender-clips-to-hikers
5. Cage Crinoline – Annie Diviney
The cage crinoline was a structured undergarment made with wire or whalebone. It was
essentially a hoopskirt, and created the desired silhouette of the time period. The cage
crinoline was worn by all classes of society and created a very fashionable silhouette.
The fashion was mocked consistently throughout it’s popularity. However, for many
years this had little effect. The comic above shows a woman who’s cage crinoline has
made her immobile. The gentlemen to the right is trying to guide her with his cane. He is
unsuccessful, and she is stuck!
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/cage-crinoline/
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/108684
http://ultimatehistoryproject.com/crinoline.html
6. Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne-Mads Wilkins and Celesta Graham
This was an organization of courtiers and they are still active in the French Haute
Couture. Those who were apart of this were members who were of companies
that were known and designated as “high fashion”. It had schools for apprentices
and institutions and it was a very exclusive organization. The members had to be
designated by the French Ministry of Industry and the name translates into
“School of the Parisian Culture”.
Sources:
Survey of Historic Costume, Fifth Edition, Page 354
https://europaregina.eu/fashion-weeks/fashion-weeks-europe/paris-fashion-
week/
*https://www.elsevier.es/es-revista-investigaciones-historia-economica-economic-328-
articulo-managing-fashion-creativity-the-history-S1698698915000387
7. Fichu - Michaela Facuri
A fichu is a large kerchief that was worn by women to fill in their low necklines on their
bodices. The fichu was worn around the neck and tied or crossed at the bosom. There
were many different variations of the fichu. It could be found square shaped, triangular
shaped, a kerchief, a shawl, a scarf, or a handkerchief. They could be found made of
cotton, linen, or silk. Some were lace, lavishly embroidered, or even knitted. Depending
on the style of the fichu, it was held closed by hooks, pins, or laces. It might even be
secured by a brooch to hide any closures.
Sources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fichu
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/fichu/
https://pieceworkmagazine.com/what-is-a-fichu/
8. Frock Coat- Emily Prueitt
A frock coat is a formal men’s coat that is usually knee length. The coat is usually long
sleeved and a fitted garment. Some of the characteristics were reverse collars and
lapels with a center vent for walking. This garment was popular from 1850-1869 The
garment was introduced in the 1820’s and was originally an informal coat but then
became a formal coat.
Source 1- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat
Source 2-https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7147/history-of-women-s-
fashion-dress-the-crinoline-period-c-1850-1869#:~:text=C.1850%2D1869-,History%20of
%20Women's%20Fashion%20%26%20Dress%3A%20The%20Crinoline%20Period
%20C.,1850%2D1869&text=Thecage%20crinoline%2C%20the%20major%20fashion
%20innovation%20for%20women%20in%20the1850s.
Source 3- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O13952/frock-coat-unknown/#:~:text=A
%20new%20style%20of%20coat,coat%20of%20the%2019th%20century.
9. Garibaldi:Sarah Smith
The inspiration for the name came from the uniform worn by the Italian revolutionary,
Giuseppe Garibaldi, and his troops. The blouse was first introduced as ladies’ fashion
by Empress Eugenie of France. In 1862 Godey’s magazine declared that the Garibaldi
shirt was “a change amounting to a revolution in ladies’ costume.” The shape of the
bodice was created in the same way as a Victorian gentleman’s shirt. It featured pleats
or gathers in the front, extending just below the waist, with full sleeves and turned-down
cuffs.While the Garibaldi shirt was fashionable, it was also practical. Sleeves could
easily be rolled up when work needed to be done. When the work was done, the shirts
were easier to launder and clean. The second most popular color was white but
eventually, the style of the blouse was seen in other colors and prints.
Source: https://decortoadore.net/2019/11/1860s-garibaldi-blouse-and-skirt.html
https://genealogylady.net/2015/09/13/fashion-moments-garibaldi-shirt/
https://mediakron.bc.edu/fashiondecor/daywear-1850s-60s-women/class-
content/daywear-1850s-60s-women/1860s-photo-skirt-and-blouse
10. Inverness Cape:
a.
The Inverness Cape is a large and loose overcoat. It had full sleeves and a cape
ending at wrist length. Many of the sleeves on these coats did not cover the
length of the arms as the would stick out from a cut in the sleeve. Over time they
would also change with styles comfort and ease. It was also made to be weather
proof. This coat is notoriuslt known for being the sherlock Holmes coat. Heavy
tweeds and wool were normally used for this garment. Was supposed to have a
more simple look to it.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverness_cape
Survey of Historic Costumes
https://localhistories.org/a-history-of-inverness/
11. Invention of the Sewing Machine- Karlie Brown and Ally Stauder
The invention of the sewing machine was something that was attempted by so many.
Through the 1800s there were many patents issued to inventors and the first actually
successful sewing machine was made by a french tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier in
1830. The machine had only thread and a hook and eye needle that created a stitch
similar to a catch stitch. There was some uproar for the creation of the sewing machine.
Garment workers were so outraged, they burned down Thimonnier’s garment factory.
They thought the invention of the sewing machine would take their jobs. The invention
of the sewing machine led to the opening of department stores and mail order clothing.
Sources:
https://www.wired.com/2009/09/0910sewing-machine/
https://www.thoughtco.com/stitches-the-history-of-sewing-machines-1992460
https://www.bgc.bard.edu/research-forum/articles/183/number-1-standard-sewing-
machine
12. Knickerbockers: Sabrina Walmer
a.
b. Worn in the early 20th century in the USA. Originated from Dutch settlers
in the 1600’s comin to New York. They were a garment alike breeches
worn by men that came down to the knees and were also baggy. They
were around for a while as over time the US then brought the style to
Britain in the 1860’s, and didn’t fully go away until the early 1920’s. It was
a common piece to wear.In the 19th century is when they even became a
women fashion piece. They tended to wear them for sports like cycalying,
golfing, riding horses, etc.
c. https://www.nba.com/knicks/history/knickerbocker
d. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knickerbockers_(clothing)
e. https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/knickerbockers/
13. Levis: Esther Wambold
Levi’s were made around 1850 by Levi Strauss. Strauss was the owner of a dry goods
store in San Fransisco during the Gold Rush. He invented Levi’s after hearing
prospectors complain about their pants ripping while mining. He hired a tailor to make
sturdy pants to sell to the Gold Rush miners. While he wasn’t the first to make denim
pants, he was the first to add rivets to places on pants that were under the most stress.
This helped prevent tearing and made them last longer. They then became very popular
with farmers, laborers, and cowboys.
Global Sourcing. (2014, October 22). The Crinoline Era; The Crinoline Era.
https://akquick.wordpress.com/global-sourcing/
Invention | Blue Jeans: Technology in American Culture. (2023). Umwblogs.org.
https://bluejeans.umwblogs.org/bibliography/
The Crinoline Period (1850-1869). (2020, July 20). Aubrey Shuga; Aubrey Shuga.
https://aubreyshuga.wordpress.com/the-crinoline-period-1850-1869/
Idacavage, S. (2017, March 3). Fashion History Lesson: The Bond Between Ladies and
Levi’s. Fashionista; Fashionista. https://fashionista.com/2017/03/levis-jeans-
womens-denim-history
14. Lounging Jacket - Michaela Facuri & Lilly
The lounge jacket is also known as the sack jacket. For casual or sporting events, the
sack or lounge jacket was a new choice, introduced in the 1840s. Cut straight, without a
waist seam, and featuring small lapels, the sack jacket was a comfortable, relaxed
alternative that became a staple of the male wardrobe later in the century. The lounging
jacket from the very late 1840s was also single-breasted and short-skirted, with rounded
fronts, flapped pockets on the hips and a slit or welt pocket on the left breast; without
the latter it might be referred to as an Albert Jacket. During the 1860s the lounging
jacket became part of the lounge suit -- trousers, waistcoat and jacket all made of the
same material and acceptable for informal wear.
Sources:
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1850-1859/
https://victorianweb.org/art/costume/nunn18.html
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/568086940467120911/
Pagoda Sleeves: Brianne Heer
The pagoda sleeve was a style of sleeve worn in the 1850’s. It features a narrow
shoulder and a very wide wrist. It was often worn with an undersleeve that was made of
a light fabric. A common style was to have the pagoda sleeve tiered and decorated with
lace and fluff. It is called a pagoda sleeve because it looks similar to the asian
architecture building called a Pagoda.
Fashion Moment – Pagoda Sleeve | Genealogy Lady
18. Parasol: Sam Carter
Summary: Existing long before the Crinoline Era, the parasol was created in the Middle-
East and ancient Egypt. In the nineteenth century, the parasol was used to help women
protect themselves from the sun to keep and maintain the popular pale complexion.
Unlike its more well known and used counterpart, the umbrella, the parasol wasn’t used
to protect the user from rain. Therefore it was often made from light materials like silk,
satin, patterned fabric, and/or lace. Eventually the practicality was abandoned for more
fashionable designs. The canopies became small and rather ineffective at blocking out
the sun.
Sources:https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-
and-maps/parasols
https://www.folkwear.com/blogs/news/historyoftheparasol
https://www.geriwalton.com/parasol-fashions/
19. Pea Coat Jacket- Karlie Brown
The pea coat is a wool coat that is double breasted and has an ulster collar. The
buttons of the coats usually featured some form of a nautical motif and were usually
metal. The coat originated in the Netherlands and was part of a military uniform. It then
spread to the United Kingdom Naval forces and soon most military were wearing pea
coats. There is some discourse on where the name “pea” comes from, “derives from the
Dutch/West Frisian word “pij” which referred to a coarse kind of thick twilled blue cloth,
hence a “pijjekker” or “pijjakker” was a “jacket made of thick fabric”.
Danish vs Dutch: what is the difference? - Routes Northhttps://www.routesnorth.com ›
Denmark
https://medium.com/@historyhabitue/a-brief-history-of-the-pea-coat-306ee0e7a7b
https://www.heddels.com/2015/12/the-history-of-the-peacoat-from-navy-to-normalcy/
20. Pelisse Mantle- Celesta Graham
A pelisse-mantle is a womens coat that is unfitted, with wide cuffs, and a flat
collar. A transitioned garment from the cloak, the pelisse mantle was about ¾
long and had a cape that came to about the waistline. The more fashionable and
high end, were usually made out of silk with different decoration, including velvet
trim. This article of clothing was changed and modified in style and length
throughout the centuries to match the changing fits and fashions.
*Survey of Historic Costume, fifth edition
*https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/pelisse/
*https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/546061523549070018/
21. Princess Dress-Mads Wilkins
The princess dress was a dress that was made with pieces that had the bodice
and skirt combined and cut without a waistline seam. These sections were
curved and shaped to make the waist more fitted. These dresses became
popular during the mid 1870s.They tended to be more tight-fitting and their
design was made to “hug” and emphasize a woman’s figure. This technique was
also known as the cuirass in jackets.
Sources: P. 365 Survey of Historic Costume
https://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htm#The%20New
%20Princess%20Line%201866
https://mode.nms.ac.uk/victorian-princess-line-dress/
Sailor Suits: Ruby Alder
Sailor Suits were very commonly used to dress children in the 19th Century, worn mostly by
boys. A Sailor Suit is made up of a middy blouse, pants, skirts (for girls and small boys), and
sometimes a sailor's hat. The Sailor Suit gained popularity as Queen Victora began dressing
both her sons and daughters in Salor Suits. They were worn as both a school uniform, as well
as everyday dress. These suits were worn until boys reached about 12 or 13.
https://histclo.tripod.com/sailors.html
https://fidmmuseum.org/2010/05/sailor-suits.html
Survey of Historic Costume, fifth edition
26. Snood: Jillian Hohnholz
A Snood is a headdress worn with the intent to keep the wearer’s hair back and out of
the way at the base of the neck. The Snood was often made from a netted material as
to be light weight on the head and easy to shape around the hair. The Snood could be
crocheted and made from home or bought. The Snood could be worn inside or outside,
and underneath hats and bonnets.
Sources: https://vintagefashionguild.org/hat-resource/snood/ ,
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/116468 ,
https://www.etsy.com/listing/732368018/snood-or-hair-net-hand-crocheted-civil
28. Charles Worth - Hope Vander Meiden
Charles Worth was a prominent fashion designer who gained fame during the Crinoline
Era. He is widely regarded as the father of Haute Couture and his influence on fashion
is still recognizable in the fashion world today. He started his career as a draper
assistant in London, then later moved to Paris. He worked for many fashion houses
before starting his own. He then gained a reputation for his fine fabrics and materials.
He was one of the first designers to create custom-made clothing for individual clients
and his attention to detail. He also was the first to design a fashion show, where models
would walk down a runway.
https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm
https://www.britannica.com/biography/Charles-Frederick-Worth
