PLANT LAYOUT

MID TERM ASSIGNMENT

ARCHITECT’S BRIEF
TROUSER - PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We would like to express our special thanks to our faculty, DR. K Ram Mohan sir, who gave us the
golden opportunity to do this wonderful project on the topic, “Plant Layout - Architect’s Design Brief”,
which has helped us to understand the topic in a much deeper way with many day-to-day examples and in
doing a lot of research about various advancements in the field of architecture. Many insights were
comprehended with the vital uses of planning across numerous fields. These concepts and many more
things would certainly help us in our future career.

We thank sir again for sharing such an interesting topic and explaining complex ideas and concepts
beautifully within the limited time frame. We are also grateful to our parents and friends for giving helpful
criticisms in finalizing the project and providing necessary resources.

Thank You,
Dhanya K R
Krishna K R
Madhuri D
Nanditha Sivan
T Vipanchika Sharma

BFT - 7

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INDEX

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 2

INDEX 3

VARIOUS PARTS OF A TROUSER 5

OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF BASIC TROUSER 6

PRODUCT & PROCESS ANALYSIS OF TROUSER 11

TROUSER VARIATIONS 11
PLEATED TROUSERS:- Styles and Variations: 11
DOUBLE PLEATED 11
FORWARD PLEATS 11
REVERSE PLEATS 11
FLAT FRONT PANTS 12
OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF TROUSER VARIATIONS: 13

FRONT POCKET VARIATIONS: 13

Slant Pocket: 13
Vertical Pockets: 13
Frog-mouth pocket 14
OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF FRONT POCKETS 14

BACK POCKET VARIATION 15

OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF BACK POCKETS 16

TROUSER CUFFS VARIATIONS 17

OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF TROUSER CUFFS 17

WAISTBAND VARIATIONS 18
TRADITIONAL WAISTBAND 18
EXTENDED WAISTBAND 18
OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF WAISTBAND VARIATIONS 19

SPACE ANALYSIS 20
PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM 20
PRODUCT DETAILS 21
MACHINE DETAILS 21
LABOUR DETAILS 21
OTHER DETAILS 21

ARCHITECT’S DESIGN BRIEF 22

BIBLIOGRAPHY 23

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ARCHITECT’S DESIGN BRIEF
"A good brief, like any good document, is the foundation of success. In formulating a good brief,
you empower your designer to do what they do best with the potential to deliver a project quite
literally beyond your comprehension"- Paul Hindes, Soul Space Building Designer

The architect’s design brief is the first communication step between a client and an architect. It is a tool
that helps the architect understand the client's intent and requirements. It is an important element as the
required outcomes and deliverables of a project are documented based on the architecture design brief. A
clear direction cannot be visualised without a proper architectural plan brief, and more importantly no
record of the project's components.

The design brief also plays a vital role and is a point of reference for both the client and architect during
the project's development. Practically, the architect’s brief also essentially provides an informal contract
between the client and architect. By specifying every desired detail of the end product, it provides a better
picture to the architect to design within the client’s limitations and expectations, that will hopefully
produce a building that both parties will be satisfied with.

ARCHITECT’S BRIEF FOR APPAREL MANUFACTURING UNIT

In this document we discuss the needs and wants which are required for the development of an apparel
manufacturing unit. The proposed product for the unit is Formal Trousers with Progressive Bundling
Production System (PBS). The stages through which we travel to create the final Architect's Brief is
given below.

1. Product Analysis

In this section we shall discuss the variations seen in formal trouser components. We dig deep
into various parts of the trouser and most commercially used variations are noted. This could help
us in deciding what kind of product we will want to produce in our unit.

2. Process Analysis

In this part we will discuss the operation breakdown of the variations and an overall trouser as
well. This will help us get an idea on the number of machines required for the process of
manufacturing and also Standard Allowed Minutes for the process of trouser making.

3. Space Analysis

Once we completed the first and second stage we will be able to assess the space utilization in the
building. We will also refer to the process flow to understand the placement of the machineries
and movement of the workers.

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TROUSER
A trouser is defined as an item of clothing worn from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs
separately. It can also be called formal pants. It is the most common and popular clothing around the
world for men and women. Various components of a basic pants are given below.

VARIOUS PARTS OF A TROUSER

Sl.No Components of a Trouser Trims Used

1 Waistband Sewing thread

2 Belt Loop Zipper

3 Button Lining

4 Fly Button

5 Zipper Label (Main label, size label, composition

label & care label)

6 Front Pocket Crochet

7 Back Pocket Rivets

8 Side Seam Motif

9 Inseam Tape/Lace

5
 10 Bottom Hem Sewing thread

11 Leg Opening -

12 Crotch Point -

OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF BASIC TROUSER

Style Description: Front knee lining, front extension, flat lock loop, 4 darts, single pleat, front pkt
pointed, ditch stitch, coin pkt, 2 front pkt, 2 back welt pkt with bartack, W/B elastic

Planned Output 200

S.NO Operation Description Machine type SAM
1 Trolley loading (Front + Back) Manual 5
2 Back Panel Fusing + COIN PKT press FIT 12.5
3 W/B Extra Fuse FIT 20
4 Crotch Attach SNLS 12.5
5 Back serging Double Head Serging 7.5
6 Back PKT Main Label SNLS 10
7 Front panel Fusing FIT
P 6.25
8 Front serging with knee lining Double Head Serging
R 15

E 9 Front rise serging 3 Thread O/L 16.25

P 10 Belt loop ready (with loop pressing) Blind stitch loop making 5
A 11 Front PKT Pointed (Mesh 2) SNLS 20
R 12 Front PKT Pointed (mesh 2) SNLS 20
A 13 W/B Fusing Fusing Machine 10
T
14 Fuse right, left, fly & Bone Fusing Machine
O 13.75

R 15 WB Extension AUTO ZIG 10

Y 16 W/B Lining attach SNLS 18.75
17 W/B top stitch SNLS 8.25

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 18 W/B press FIT 7.5
19 Right Fly O/L 3 Thread O/L 4.5
20 Left fly binding SNLS 5
21 Right Zipper attach SNLS 6.75
22 Right Lining attach SNLS 8.25
23 Left Zipper attach DNCS 3
24 Cut & Gap Zip YKK ZIP GAP CUTTER 3
25 Fly press FIT 10.75
26 Back pkt facing + Bone O/L 3 Thread O/L 10
27 Back pocket pointed SNLS 0
28 Back pkt left facing attach SNLS 3.75
29 Right facing attach + label attach SNLS 7.5
30 Front facing O/L (2) 3 Thread O/L 10
31 Front pkt facing attach (2) SNLS 12.5
32 Coin pkt hem SNLS 3.75
33 Coin pkt attach SNLS 8.75
34 Front pkt closing SNLS 14.5
35 Front pkt press FIT 10
36 Panel & W/B Pairing Manual 15
37 Pleat making (1) AUTO PLEAT 4.5
38 Dart making (2) AUTO DART 12.5
39 Dart pressing & Fusing TOPPER 14
40 Back PKT Welting Auto Welt 14.75
41 Welting Press Topper 16.25
42 Bone tacking + Trimming SNLS 10
427.5
43 Side pkt press FIT
F 12.5

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 44 Right pkt pointed SNLS
R 8.5
O 45 Left pkt pointed SNLS 8.5
N 46 Right front pkt stay SNLS 8.25
T 47 Left front pkt stay SNLS 8.25
48 Right fly attach SNLS 8
&
49 Left fly attach + top stitch SNLS 7.5
50 Bone run stitch SNLS
B 8

A 51 Back pkt down kinnari SNLS 10

C 52 Keyhole + marking KEYHOLE M/C 15
K 53 Back pkt edge cutter SNLS 15
54 Top kinnari SNLS 10
55 Back pkt pointed SNLS 20
56 Back pkt bartack BARTACK M/C 11.25
57 Back pkt stay stitch SNLS 15
58 Side seam AUTO SIDE SEAM 17.5
SNCS
59 In seam SNCS 20
60 Safety stitch SNLS 10
61 Side seam pressing CAROUSEL M/C 17.5
62 In seam press FIT 17.5
248.25
63 W/B Marking Manual 12.5
64 Pkt booking SNLS 20
65 Loop attach SNLS 16.25
66 W/B attach SNLS 27.5
67 H/B attach H/B M/C 15
68 W/B elastic cut and attach Manual 19
69 Left extension SNLS 10

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 70 Right extension SNLS 10
71 W/B Extension press FIT 17.5
A
72 Loop marking + Loop cut Manual
S 12.5

S 73 Loop UP, bartack Bartack M/C 20

E 74 LOOP DOWN BARTACK Bartack M/c 20
M 75 Loop finish SNLS 18.75
B 76 Inside left kinnari SNLS 15
L 77 R&L Extension + W/B Press FIT 17.5
Y
78 Top kinnari SNLS 10
79 Slider YKK SLIDER M/C 11.25
80 Right fly kinnari SNLS 10
81 Front rise SNLS 11.25
82 J- Stitch SNLS 11.25
83 Seat seam join DNCS 16.25
84 Back rise press TOPPER 17.5
85 Crotch attach SNLS 14.75
86 Crotch finish SNLS 10
87 W/B press with fusing FIT 13.75
88 INLINE INSPECTION Manual 0
89 Bartack Pkt & Fly Bartack M/C 20
90 Button hole making Keyhole M/C 10
91 Button hole bartack Bartack M/c 7.5
92 D- Stitch SNLS 20
93 Button attach Button attach M/C 15
94 W/B top Elastic top stitch (Horizontal) DNLS 25
95 W/B Elastic side stitch (Vertical) DNLS 21.25

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 96 Loop down taking SNLS 15
97 Pin tacking @ W/B Spot tuck M/C 12.5
98 Bottom tacking SNLS 7.5
99 Trimming Trimming M/C 22.5
100 End line Inspection Manual 0
553.75

Total number of pieces in a bundle = 40 pieces

Total time taken for 1 bundle in preparatory section = 427.5 mins
Total time taken for 1 bundle in Front & Back section = 248.25 mins
Total time taken for 1 bundle in Assembly section = 553.75 mins
Total time taken to produce 1 bundle = 1229.5 mins = 20.49 hrs for 40 trousers
Total time needed to produce 1 trouser = Approx 32 mins

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 PRODUCT & PROCESS ANALYSIS OF TROUSER
VARIATIONS IN FORMAL TROUSERS
TROUSER VARIATIONS
1. PLEATED TROUSERS:- Styles and Variations:
● Double Pleated
Double-pleated dress pants are the most common variation, but not all pants are double pleated. The
single long pleat runs from the waistband to roughly crotch height, where the pleat's fold meets with the
pressed crease in the front of the pant and a second, shorter, shallower crease running closer to the
pockets.

FORWARD PLEATS REVERSE PLEATS

This trouser style is less common of the two and is This tailoring style of trousers is adopted from the
most commonly associated with having British traditional Italian style.
origins.

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2. FLAT FRONT PANTS

The young, contemporary alternative is to wear formal pants with a flat front. The extra pleated folds in
the front of the pants are missing. This variant has a sleek, streamlined aesthetic that many men adore, but
the simplicity comes at a cost.

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OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF TROUSER VARIATIONS:
Sl.No Variations Operation Breakdown M/C used SAM

1 Double Pleated 1. Prepare the two pleats on each 1. Manual 1. 0.40

side and 2. SNLS 2. 0.30
2. Secure pocket and pleats with 3. SNLS
temporary baste.
3. Continue with the regular
process for trouser construction.

2 Forward Pleat 1. Prepare the Forward pleats, with 1. Manual 1. 1.0

the opening of the fold pointed 2. SNLS 2. 0.30
inward toward the fly seam. 3. SNLS
2. Secure pocket and pleats with
temporary baste.
3. Continue with the regular
process for trouser construction

3 Reverse Pleat 1. Prepare the Reverse pleats, with 1. Manual 1. 1.0

the fold open outwards towards 2. SNLS 2. 0.30
the pockets. 3. SNLS
2. Secure pocket and pleats with
temporary baste.
3. Continue with the regular
process for trouser construction

4 Flat Front 1. No pleats are to be prepared at 1. - 1. 0

Trousers the front of the trouser. 2. SNLS 2. 0.30
2. Secure the pockets with 3. SNLS
temporary baste.
3. Continue with the regular
process for trouser construction.

FRONT POCKET VARIATIONS:

1. Slant Pocket:
Slant pocket are cut on an angle so that the wearer can easily insert his hands into them.

2. Vertical Pockets:
Vertical pockets run straight up the side seams of the trouser. Because there is no pocket line intersecting
the front rise of your pants, it can appear cleaner. In pleated pants, a vertical slit will run perpendicular to
the pleats.

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 3. Frog-mouth pocket
Another possibility is the frog-mouth pocket, so named because of its
likeness to a frog's mouth. These are opposite of the vertical slit pocket as
these run horizontally across the front of the trouser. As such, they also
really make the pockets a visible feature of the pants. Because frogmouth
pockets would interfere with pleats, they are best styled with flat-front
pants.

OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF FRONT POCKETS

Sl.No Variations Operation Breakdown M/C Used SAM

1. Slant pocket 1. Place pocket lining at the front 1. Manual 1. 0.35

pocket of the garment 2. SNLS 2. 0.40
2. Sew the lining along the pocket 3. FIT 3. 0.30
shape 4. SNLS 4. 0.33
3. Turn the lining to wrong side and 5. Manual 5. 0.15
press 6. SNLS 6. 0.43
4. Top stitch on the pocket front of 7. 3 Thread 7. 0.45
the garment O/L 8. 0.20
5. Attach the pocket bag at the 8. SNLS
lining on the wrong side
6. Sew the pocket bag and lining
together
7. Neaten raw edges by overlocking
along the pocket and side seam
8. Top stitch on the front to secure.

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 2. Vertical pocket 1. Reinforce garment front along 1. Fusing 1. 1.0
pocket opening using non-stretch M/C 2. 0.40
tape 2. SNLS 3. 0.45
2. Sew the pocket along the seam in 3. 3 Thread
one continuous stitch, reinforcing O/L
corners of the pocket
3. Finish the raw edges of pocket
with an overlock stitch

3. Frog mouth 1. Attach the pocket facing with the 1. Manual 1. 0.25
pocket right sides together. 2. SNLS 2. 0.30
2. Sew along the seam opening 3. SNLS 3. 1.20
3. The pocket facing is fold over 4. SNLS 4. 0.50
and sew for a stay stitch 5. 3 Thread 5. 1.30
4. The two layers of pocket (facing O/L 6. 0.45
and pocket back) is stitch 6. Bartack
together along the curve M/C
5. Overclocking is done on the raw
edges
6. To finish Tack stitches are done
on the top and bottom of the
pocket

BACK POCKET VARIATION

Back Pockets are in wider variety than the front pockets.It can be built with no pockets, one or two
pockets, buttons or no buttons, flaps or simple welts–quite a variety for something with such limited
utility. Some of the most commonly found variations are given below.

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OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF BACK POCKETS

Sl.No Variations Operation Breakdown M/C Used SAM

1 Right rear Pocket 1. Back right Pocket Welting - ASS 1. Auto welt 1. 1.0
with button (Automatic Sewing System) 2. Topper Press 2. 0.65
2. Back Pocket Welting Iron 3. SNLS 3. 0.20
3. Facing Pocket with Pocket Bag 4. Bartack M/C 4. 0.45
4. Back Pocket Tack 5. SNLS 5. 0.58
5. Back Pocket Closing 6. SNLS 6. 0.34
6. Back Pocket Point Head 7. Bartack M/C 7. 0.45
7. Back Pocket Bartack 8. Button attach 8. 1.0
8. Back Pocket Button Attach M/C 9. 0.40
9. Inside Pocket Press (Back 9. Topper Press
Pocket)

2 Two rear pocket 1. Back right Pocket Welting - ASS 1. Auto welt 1. 1.0
with button (Automatic Sewing System) 2. Auto welt 2. 1.0
2. Back left Pocket Welting - ASS 3. FIT Press 3. 1.05
(Automatic Sewing System) 4. SNLS 4. 0.20
3. Back Pockets Welting Iron 5. Bartack M/C 5. 0.45
4. Facing Pockets with Pocket Bags 6. SNLS 6. 0.58
5. Back Pockets Tack 7. SNLS 7. 0.34
6. Back Pockets Closing 8. Bartack M/C 8. 0.45
7. Back Pockets Point Head 9. Button attach 9. 1.0
8. Back Pockets Bartack M/C 10. 0.40
9. Back Pockets Button Attach 10. Topper Press
10. Inside Pockets Press (Back
Pocket)

3 Two rear pocket 1. Back right Pocket Welting - ASS 1. Auto welt 1. 1.0
without button (Automatic Sewing System) 2. Auto welt 2. 1.0
2. Back left Pocket Welting - ASS 3. FIT Press 3. 1.05
(Automatic Sewing System) 4. SNLS 4. 0.20
3. Back Pockets Welting Iron 5. Bartack M/C 5. 0.45
4. Facing Pockets with Pocket Bags 6. SNLS 6. 0.58
5. Back Pockets Tack 7. SNLS 7. 0.34
6. Back Pockets Closing 8. Bartack M/C 8. 0.45
7. Back Pockets Point Head 9. Topper Press 9. 1.0
8. Back Pockets Bartack 10. 0.40
9. Inside Pockets Press (Back
Pocket)

4 No rear pocket 1. Skip the back pocket sewing 1. - 1. 0

2. Continue with assembly and 2. SNLS
regular process for trouser
construction.

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TROUSER CUFFS VARIATIONS

CUFFED TROUSER UNCUFFED TROUSER

Most dress pants have a small band around each The fabric at the bottom of the pant leg is
ankle called “cuffs.” Cuffs are the turned-up folded up onto the inside of the pant leg
margin of trouser bottoms. This feature's primary instead of the outside. Flat front trousers are
function is to protect the bottom of the pants from always uncuffed.
fraying or other types of harm. Cuffs are almost
always present on pleated pants. Pants with a
single pleat are more customizable, whereas those
with two pleats should always have cuffs.

OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF TROUSER CUFFS

Sl.No Variations Operation Breakdown M/c Used SAM

1 Uncuffed Trouser hem 1. Press cuff allowance inward. 1. Iron 1. 0.25

2. Sew along the hem. 2. SNLS 2. 0.30
3. Final Press. 3. Iron 3. 0.40

2 Cuffed Trousers hem 1. Press cuff allowance inside 1. Iron 1. 0.30

the pants. 2. SNLS 2. 0.50
2. Straight stitch along lower 3. Iron 3. 0.45
crease. 4. SNLS 4. 1.10
3. Press - inside out the cuff. 5. Iron 5. 0.50
4. Straight Stitch across side
seams.
5. Final Press

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TROUSER BREAKS:

WAISTBAND VARIATIONS
This component is one of the most modified parts in a trouser. Below we have the operation breakdown
for 2 most basic and common waistband types.

1. TRADITIONAL WAISTBAND
Both ends of the waistbands meet together at a point to fasten the button.

2. EXTENDED WAISTBAND
One long flap is extended to cover the area where the trouser is fastened.

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OPERATION BREAKDOWN OF WAISTBAND VARIATIONS

Sl.No Variations Operation Breakdown M/C Used SAM

1 Traditional Waistband 1. Fusing Attach 1. Fusing 1. 1.10

2. Make Extension Machine 2. 0.40
3. W/B Lining Attach 2. AUTO ZIG 3. 1.15
4. W/B Lining Edge Stitch 3. SNLS 4. 0.35
5. Waistband Marking 4. SNLS 5. 1.0
6. Waistband Attach 5. Manual 6. 1.10
7. Extension Closing 6. SNLS 7. 0.45
7. SNLS

2 Extended Waistband 1. Fusing Attach 1. Fusing 1. 1.10

2. Make Extension Machine 2. 0.40
3. W/B Lining Attach 2. AUTO ZIG 3. 1.15
4. W/B Lining Edge Stitch 3. SNLS 4. 0.33
5. Waistband Marking 4. SNLS 5. 0.50
6. Waistband Attach 5. Manual 6. 1.10
7. Left Waistband extension 6. SNLS 7. 0.40
Locks 7. SNLS 8. 0.30
8. Press Left fly Extension 8. Iron 9. 0.55
9. Hook & Bar attach 9. Hook & Bar 10. 0.32
10. Line right fly attach m/c 11. 1.10
11. Press waistband Right Fly 10. SNLS 12. 0.40
Extension 11. Iron
12. Close Left Waistband 12. SNLS
Extension

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 SPACE ANALYSIS
Space planning is a deep analysis of how physical space is used in buildings. It makes us understand the
purpose of spaces and who will use them. Space planning is a very intensive process with multiple levels
of data to consider and crucial to any project. The data we were able to gather from our ground study is
summarized below:

Area Available: 30,000 Sq.Ft

Type of Production System: Progressive Bundling System

PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM

According to the AAMA Technical Advisory Committee, 80% of the apparel manufacturers use the PBS
production System. In Progressive bundle system, each operator does different operations of a garment.

● All sewing machines required to make the garment are laid in a line.
● Cut parts are fed in a bundle form.
● When an operator receives a bundle of cut components, they open the bundle and do the operation
(job) for all pieces of the bundle.
● After completing the job they move the bundle to the next operator who is doing the next
operation.
A number of people are involved in sewing a single garment. Major benefits of this system are – as
operators work on single or limited operations, their performance increases. Secondly, product
consistency can be maintained garment to garment. Most of the export-oriented garment manufacturers
adopted progressive bundle system as the main production system.

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PRODUCT DETAILS
● Total Number of operations for a basic formal trouser = 100
● Total Time taken to produce one trouser = 32 mins
● Total Number of pieces in one bundle= 40 pieces
● Total number of bundles required = 5 bundles
● Total time taken to produce 1 bundle = 21 hours
● Total no. of trousers to be produced in a day = 200
● No. of trouser lines required to reach the daily production = 7
● No. of Trousers produced in 8 hours = 105

MACHINE DETAILS
● Total Number of machines required to complete any trouser variation = 96
● Total space required for 1 line = 68.35 m width x 121.69 m length
● Space between each line = 1.5m
● Total space for production floor (sewing department) = 122m length x 488m width

LABOUR DETAILS
● Total Number of manpower required for a single trouser line = 90
● No of shifts required to run in maximum capacity = 2

OTHER DETAILS
● No.of common doors to the sewing floor = 5
● No.of Windows on the sewing floor= 45
● No.of Emergency Exits = 4
● No. of Wash Room areas = 4
● Drinking Water space = 4

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 ARCHITECT’S DESIGN BRIEF
Project: Apparel Manufacturing Unit
Date: 07-10-2021
Address: ABC Garments Ltd, Hyderabad.

Project Description:
Construction of a Formal Trouser Manufacturing Unit, with PBS production system.

Basic Constraints:
1. Area Available: 30,000 Sq.Ft
2. Building Type: Manufacturing Plant; Commercial Building
3. Capacity (Rate of Output): 6000 pcs (Trousers)
4. Storage Capacity: 10 days raw Material Inventory
5. Expansion Plan: Provision to double the capacity in 5 years.
6. Technology Level: Moderate
7. CSR Compliant: Yes

Major Requirements:

● A building structure (preferably a Pre Engineered Building (PEB)) to accommodate 672 number
of machines and 630 number of operators at the same time.
● A space with adequate air flow, ventilation and lighting.
● The space to arrange and work efficiently for a Progressive Bundling Production System.
● Proper allocation of spaces for:
1. Receiving Cut Parts
2. Raw Material Moving
3. Production
4. Storage
5. Packing
6. Shipping / Warehouse
7. Office

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BIBLIOGRAPHY
● https://askinglot.com/what-is-space-analysis-in-architecture
● https://www.firstinarchitecture.co.uk/space-planning-basics/
● https://textilestudycenter.com/progressive-bundle-system/
● http://gordanacolovic.blogspot.com/2014/12/layout-scheme.html

Books Referred-
● The Sewing Book by Alison Smith
● Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Armstrong
● How to make up a plant of Apparel Manufacturing Factory by Binran

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