2B03CFD–TEXTILE SCIENCE (T)

SEMESTER II
2B03CFD–TEXTILE SCIENCE (T)

Course Outcome
− To create awareness regarding the fabric construction techniques
− To acquire knowledge about various types of looms.
− Understanding the process of weaving and knitting

UNIT-I
− Types of loom
− Introduction to power loom, hand loom, pit loom, primitive looms, shuttle and shuttle
less loom,
− Dobby and Jacquard loom

UNIT-II
− Weaving process,
− Principles and preparatory process of weaving.
− Different types of winding, warping and sizing

UNIT-III
− Weave- and its basic types,
− Different types of fancy weaves- pile weave, leno, honey comb, double cloth
− Knitting and its types- warp and weft knitting
− Difference between warp knitting and weft knitting.
− Difference between woven fabric and knitted fabric

UNIT-IV
− Non-woven definition and different uses of non-woven material,
− Types of non-woven - Composite, melt blown, spun bond, and dry laid technology,
thermal bonded, needle punch, chemical bonded and Nano technology.

Reference Books:
1. Watsons Textile Design and Colour, ZGrosicki, Woodhead publishing Ltd.
2. Textiles Sara.J. Kadoiph and AnnaL Langford, Prentice Hall.
3. Textiles Andrea Wynne, Macmillan London.

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UNIT-I
LOOM
Loom is machine or device that causes
interlacement the longitudinal threads, the warp, with
the transverse threads, the weft to form a fabric. In
other word, a loom is a mechanism or tool used for
weaving the yarn into fabric. Loom is driven by two
ways, manual and automatic.
TYPES OF LOOM

CLASSIFICATION OF LOOMS ACCORDING TO THE DIFFERENT SPECIFICATIONS

DEVELOPMENTS IN HANDLOOMS

Tree Loom & Vertical Frame Loom Loin Loom

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Primitive Loom
This loom is a further development of loin loom. The
warp is stretched between two round rods. The length and
width of warp is more comparing to the loin loom. Both the
rods, ie the warp roller and cloth roller are held between two
pillars at the ground level. This loom is also having
minimum shedding and beating devises.The weaving
becomes an in house activity as shown in the picture. The
width and length of the cloth has increased marginally.
Some more wooden parts are added in the loom. Pick inserted from both the sides and
beating of weft yarn effected by two ladies from both side of the loom.

Throw Shuttle Pit Loom

It is an advanced loom comparing to primitive
loom. The loom having a set of heald shaft. A
suspended bamboo reed is used as slay. The
structure of the loom is fixed over a pit so it is name
as throw shuttle pit loom.
The warp is spread at the ground level because
of the suspended reed. The beating of weft to the fell
of the cloth is difficult. Typical healed reversing
motion is used to operate the healds. The loom
required more space on the hut of the weaver. A shuttle is introduced to carry the weft yarn
from one side to another side.

Fly Shuttle Pit Loom

It is the advance loom as discussed earlier variety.
The loom having warp roller, cloth roller, set of heald shaft
and other structures required for holding together the
parts. The loom is fitted over a pit hence, the name fly
shuttle pit loom.
The main difference in this loom is that it having a
fly shuttle slay. Thus, enables the weaver to fly this shuttle
through the shed by pulling the handle provided for it.
The shuttle moves very fast and hence, the
production is increased.

Frame Loom
A loom with all required accessories kept together in a
frame is called frame loom. Normally this loom will be placed
on the ground without any fitting or foundation. The loom
remains stable during weaving due to its weight. The size
and weight of the loom is depends on the variety of cloth to
be woven. In most cases this loom is used to weave coarser
varieties of fabrics. High finished cloth can produced with
the help of the loom.

After the frame loom many other type of handloom has

come to the industry handloom attached with different type
of shedding devices; loom with take up for let off motions,
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loom with catch cord system semiautomatic handloom etc. E.g.: Jacquard loom, Dobby
loom, Chitharanjan loom, Ichalkaranji loom

Chittaranjan Hand Loom

Chittaranjan loom is one of the types of semi-automatic
loom which is made of iron and wood. The terms which is
commonly used in Bengali language is Chittaranjan loom.
Chittaranjan loom also known as Japanese loom.
The common features of Chittaranjan loom are in the
below:
 Picking and shedding motion is used here as fly shuttle
loom.
 The main characteristics of Chittaranjan loom lie in its
beating up, take up and let-off motion.
 A five wheel take up motion has been adopted to
regulate picks per inch.
 For beat up two wheels upon the top shaft connect the
slay at the two ends with two levers. Higher production
rate is here.

Advantages and disadvantages of Chittaranjan loom

Advantages Disadvantages
a) Chittaranjan looms more perfect for a) Production rate is less over
weaving coarse and medium fabric than modern loom.
then finer yarns. b) 5 wheel positive take up motion is used
b) These types of loom have 80% here which gives jerky motion.
efficiency. c) Chittaranjan loom is not an automatic
c) Chittaranjan loom ensure uniformity loom.
in the insertion of picks per inch by d) Precise control of fraction of picks is
the use of five wheel positive take up not suitable here.
motion.
d) An average can conveniently run this
loom.
e) This loom runs 120-140 picks per
minute.
f) These types of loom also ensure
uniform beat up.

Hattersley Loom
The plain Hattersley Domestic Loom was specially
developed for cottage or home use and designed to
replace the wooden handloom. This domestic design is
similar in construction to a power loom.
It was introduced 1900s and the makers claimed
that a speed of 160 picks per minute could be easily
attained with from 2 to 8 shafts weaving a variety of
fabrics.
Because foot pedals, or treadles operate the loom
it is still classed as a handloom, but it is much easier
and faster to weave as all the motions of the loom are connected via crankshaft and gear
wheels.
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The cast metal chair, manufactured along with the loom, can be raised or lowered to
suit and the seat rocks forward and back as the weaver treadles the loom.

Advantages of Hattersley Loom

• This type of loom is lighter than power loom.
• In Hattersley loom, maximum motions are motive using power.
• An average weaver or operator can easily run this loom.
• It to ensure uniform insertion of weft during fabric manufacturing.
• Hattersley loom ensure uniform compactness during cloth weaving.

Advantages and disadvantages of Hand loom

Advantages Disadvantages
a) Hand loom is more economical. a) Causes more noise in the work field.
b) Easy to operate. b) Shuttle cause abrasion on warp
c) Suitable for low scale production yarn which increase wastage
d) Separate parts are available in market. percentage
c) Warp break increases for shuttle.
d) Lower production rate then shuttle
less loom

SEMI-AUTOMATIC LOOM
It’s all the weaving process is done by electric power it is called as power loom.
Edmund craft wright first introduced power loom in 1784. The shuttle loom was the first
type of Power Loom developed. It uses a shuttle that is a boat shaped device. That holds a
small quill of yarn. The shuttle is the only powered insertion system that carries its own
yarn supply across the warp. The maximum speed of these looms varies with the width of
the fabric, but most produced between 150 and 200 picks per minute. Power loom fabric is
less expensive than handloom.
This type of loom is basically the plain loom with additional attachments of automatic
electronic/mechanical warp stop as well as weft stop motions along with positive let off
motions. As in the case of plain looms, the semi-automatic loom may have additional
attachment of dobby or jacquard or drop box as the case may be.

AUXILIARY MOTIONS OF LOOM

Auxiliary motions are added to a loom to get high productivity and good
quality of fabric. These motions are useful but not absolutely essential. They
are
a) Warp stop motion: This motion able to stop the loom when a warp
thread breaks or get excessively loosened.
b) Weft stop motion: This motion able to stop the loom when a weft
breaks or runs out of the pirn (weft package).
c) Warp protector motion: This motion protect
the warp threads by stopping the loom when
the shuttle fails to reach, the selvedge side
and box properly into either the shuttle box
during picking.

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d) Drop box motion: This motion able to insert various
coloured weft yarn into the same fabric for check and
stripe effect.
e) Brake motion: A mechanism to stop the loom when a
well yarn breaks.
f) Feeler motion: This motion
able to indicate whether the
well yarn in pirn is almost
used up or not.

AUTOMATIC LOOM
An automatic loom is basically one that has auto pirn changing mechanism along
with all the automatic warp and weft stop motions as well as positive let off motions.

SHUTTLELESS LOOM
Many kinds of shuttleless looms are used for weaving such as Projectile Looms, Rapier
Looms, Water Jet Looms, and Air Jet Looms.

Rapier Loom
Rapier loom is a shuttleless weaving loom in
which the filling yarn is carried through the shed of
warp yarns to the other side of the loom by finger like
carriers called rapiers. It is the main part of rapier
loom. It is used instead of shuttle.

Picking Mechanism
The rapier head on creel side picks up yarn
from designated cone and is carried towards
centre of warp shed by the rod.
Simultaneously the matching rapier head
from opposite side moves in, as shown in the
central diagram.
The picking cycle is completed when both
rapiers retreat to their original position.
Rapier looms are very efficient and their
speed ranges from 200 to 260 ppm. These looms
can manufacture a variety of fabrics ranging from muslin fabric to drapery fabrics and even
upholstery fabrics

Projectile Loom
A weaving machine in which the weft thread is
gripped by jaw(s) fitted in a projectile, which is then
propelled through the shed. It has a small hook-like
device that grips the end of the filling yarn. It is
sometimes called missile loom as the picking action
is done by a series of small bullet like projectiles
which hold the weft yarn and carry it through the
shed and then return empty. All the filling yarns are inserted from the same side of the
loom.

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A special tucking device holds the ends of the wefts in place at the edge of the cloth to
form the selvage. The weft has to be cut and separately secure at the fabric edge. This
loom needs smooth, uniform yarn which is properly sized in order to reduce friction. The
lower height of the shed and the smaller mass of the projectile allow an increase in
production speed. Projectile loom can produce up to 300 ppm and is less noisy than the
shuttle loom.

Advantages of Projectile Loom

1. Two or three cloths can be woven simultaneously.
2. It is possible to achieve weaving performances with breakage rate per square meter of
cloth. 50% of the number of breaks that would occur on a conventional loom.
3. Since the projectile is passing through guides there is no reed to projectile or projectile
to yarn contact.

Air Jet Loom

In air jet loom, a jet of air is projected
across the shed with the force, that takes
the filling yarn to the other side i.e. jet of air
is used to propel the weft yarn through the
shed at speeds of up to 600 ppm. Uniform
weft yarns are needed to make fabrics on
this loom.

Also, heavier yarns are suitable for air jet looms as the lighter fabrics are very difficult
to control through the shed. However, too heavy yarns also can’t be carried across the loom
by an air jet. In spite of these limitations, air jet loom can produce a wide variety of fabrics.

Advantages Disadvantages
a) Multicolor welt inserting a) Power consumption dew to
b) Automatic pick repairing compressed air.
c) Heavier yarns are suitable for air jet b) Lighter fabrics are very difficult to
looms control through shed.
c) Too heavy yarns also can't be carried
across the loom by air jet.

Water Jet Loom

In water jet loom, a water jet is propelled across the shed with the force that takes the
filling yarn to the other side.

In it, a pre-measured length of weft yarn is carried across the loom by a jet of water.
These looms are very fast with speeds up to 600 ppm and very low noise. Also, it doesn’t
place much tension on the filling yarn.

As the pick is tensionless, very high quality of warp yarns are needed for efficient
operation. Also, only yarns that are not readily absorbent can be used to make fabrics on
water jet looms such as filament yarn of acetate, nylon, polyester, and glass. However, it can
produce very high-quality fabrics having a great appearance and feel.

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Advantage
1. High Efficiency
2. Low Drag and Shallow Draught
3. Smooth and Quiet
4. Total Safety

Multiphase loom
Multiphase looms are considered to be the third generation of weaving machines. In
multiphase weaving, several sheds are formed across the width of warp at the same time.
One of the latest multiphase looms can produce 1.5 yards of fabric in one minute. However,
this principle has not succeeded because of a lack of quality and flexibility. An automated
system to fix weft breaks is another challenge.

Conventional Vs Modern Loom

Sl.No. Conventional Loom Modern Loom
1. Low running speed. High running speed.
Comparatively lower production
2. Higher production capacity.
capacity.
Complex design can be produced.
3. Simple design can be produced
Initial investment is
4. Initial investment is comparatively high.
comparatively lower.
Driven manually.
5. Driven by electric power
Shedding, picking &beating up Shedding, picking & beating up is done
6.
are done manually. automatically
7. Shuttle loom. Shuttle less loom
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8. Higher warp shed need. Lower warp shed needed.
Less number of design varieties More number of design variety can be
9.
can be produced. produced
Safety system is not properly
10. Safety system is improved.
improved.

DOBBY
Dobby is a shedding mechanism placed on the top of the loom in order to produce
figured patterns by using large number of healds than the capacity of a tappet. Dobby is
also known as a “witch or “wizard”.
Generally dobbies are used for weaving extra warp or extra weft designs. Extra warp
threads and large number of healds can be controlled by dobby. Different types of dobbies
used in the handloom industry are lattice dobby, barrel dobby and vertical dobby. These
dobbies facilitate either bottom closed shed or center closed shed.

Lattice Dobby
The primary part of this shedding device is called lattice
and hence the name-lattice dobby. Lattice dobby is known in
the market based on the number of lever the dobby is having.
Generally, lattice dobby is used for extra warp designs. The
lattice dobby works once for every two picks. Lattice dobby is
always associated with a harness tie.
This dobby consists of one grooved roller, number of
levers and a chain of lattices. A dobby with 24 levers is called
as 24 lever lattice dobby. The number of levers refers to the
number of different ends it can control or lift to form the shed.
24 lever lattice dobby can operate 24 different ends in a repeat
of the design. There is no limitation on number of picks as it is
based on the number of lattices used in the chain which can
be attached depending upon the requirements.

Climax Dobby
Climax dobby is a double lift double jack-lever negative dobby. The number of shafts
that can be actuated by a dobby varies between 6 and 40. Theoretically dobby can control
48 shafts (maximum). However, practically it can control 36 shafts in case of wool and allied
fibers. Again, for cotton and allied fibers, it can control maximum 24 heald shafts. In these
case healds are operated by jacks and levers.

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A Negative Dobby activates the healdshafts in one direction only that means the
upward or downward movement of the healdshafts in the reverse direction is done by using
some additional device like dead wt., spring elastic bands etc. A negative dobby is used for
producing light or medium weight fabrics like cotton, silk or synthetic.
A Positive Dobby activates the healdshafts in both the directions, upward and
downward. It is used for producing heavy fabrics like woolen and worsted.

JACQUARD
Jacquard is a shedding device placed on the top of the loom to produce large no of
patterns by using a very large no of warp threads separately by means of harness cords,
hooks and needles. The figuring capacity of a jacquard is 1800+.

It means it can produce design with more than 1800

warp threads by controlling them individually, which is far
beyond the capacity of a dobby or tappet loom.

Working Principle of Jacquard Loom

Punched card is used for the jacquard shed which is
made according to the design. Here, one pattern card is used
for the single pick. Pattern chain is made which take place on
the pattern cylinder. Here, pattern card holes indicate warp
up of the design. The knives form the giraffe which is all
fastened together. Those are moved down and up from the
weaving loom crankshaft.
If there is a hole in the pattern cad, the needle directly
opposite the hole will pass through it and into the perforation
the cylinder and the knife will take if the hook to which this
needle is connected and forms the top line of the jacquard shed or shedding.

Limitation of Mechanical Jacquard

1. Modern microprocessor controlled weaving machines cannot work with mechanical
jacquards as all machine controls and timing sequencing is done via the weaving
machine's microprocessor.
2. At speeds in excess of 700 rpm problems of selection and shedding control.
Electronic jacquards
Developed recently to overcome the limitations of
mechanical jacquards.
The recognized advantages of electronic jacquard are:
1. High speed hooks selection and high speed weaving.
2. Elimination of the cylinder, needles and design card.
3. Can be interfaced directly to a CAD system.

The CAD programming systems greatly simplify the

procedures involved in both the production and processing
of jacquard patterns. The cardboard or pattern cards are
replaced by magnetic tapes for the electronic machines.

The data required for shed formation is processed on one of the available
programming systems, which provides CAD and processing of all weave and pattern data.

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UNIT-II
WEAVING PREPARATORY PROCESS
All the processes carried before starting weaving is called preparatory process. In
other words preparing the yarn for the weaving process is called preparatory process. The
step wise systematic weaving preparatory process is briefly described here

Objectives of Winding
a) To transfer the yarn to package suitable for next
processes.
b) To remove objectionable yarn faults, dirt and dust
from the yarn up to some extent.
c) To eliminate yarn knots and bad piecing by using
auto splicing in winding process.
d) To increase the efficiency of warping and weaving
by bigger size of package of yarn.

Classification of Winding Machines

Classification of winding machines based on package, winding, drive, and type of yarn
used which are listed below:

1. According to package:
o Flanged bobbin winding m/c.
o Cone winding m/c.
o Cheese winding m/c.
o Pirn winding m/c.
o Cop winding m/c.

2. According to winding:
o Precision winding m/c.
o Non-precision winding m/c.

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3. According to Drive:
o Direct Drive winding m/c.
o Indirect Drive winding m/c.

4. According to the type of yarn used:

For warp yarn:
• Upright spindle winding m/c.
• Drum/Cylinder winding m/c.
o Warp winding m/c
o cheese winding m/c
o Spool winding m/c
o Cone winding m/c
For weft yarn:
• Pirn winding m/c
o Ordinary pirn winding m/c
o Automatic pirn winding m/c
• Cop winding m/c.
According to Winding:
a) Precision winding: By precision winding successive coils of yarn are laid close together
in a parallel or near parallel manner. By this process it is possible to produce very
dense package with maximum amount of yarn stored in a given volume.
b) Non-precision winding: By this type of winding the package is formed by a single
thread which is laid on the package at appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross
one another and give stability to the package. The packages formed by this type of
winding are less dense but is more stable.

Types of Packages used in Winding

In winding machines two types of packages are used. They are
a) Supply Packages: These are the packages supplied from spinning machine or doubling
machine or reeling machine. Examples: i) Spinning cop (ii) Doubler cop (iii) Hank.
b) Delivery packages: These are the packages produced by winding machines. Examples:
I) Double flanged bobbin (ii) Cone (iii) Cheese or spool.

Double flanged bobbin: It is produced from double flanged bobbin winding

machine. It is having two flanges connected by a barrel. The length is 6” inches
and flange diameter is 3”.These type of package is used in small weaving
factories where different coloured warps can be prepared. The warping
machines are called sectional warping machines and are slow speed ones,

Cone: Cone is produced by a cone winding machine; it is a self

supporting, cross wound package. Yarn is wound on a conical tube. In the
succeeding machines, yarns are easily withdrawn from cone. So these types
of packages are more suitable for dyeing, knitting and warping processes.

Cheese / Spool: Cheese is produced by a cheese winding machine. It is

formed by having wooden or paper parallel tubes. The difference between
cheese and spool is that the spool is having narrow width but of large diameter
and cheese is having wider width and of smaller diameter.

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Warp Winding Machine
The yarn unwound from the package passes
through yarn tensioned and control systems, and with
the help of a grooved cylinder, is wound evenly around
the package; the yarn enters the recess in the cylinder,
thus the rotary movement of the cylinder corresponds to
the translation of the yarn. Winding machines currently
have independent heads with individually adjustable
motors.
A modern winding machine can process yarns
ranging from a count of Ne 2 to finer ones, at a winding
speed of 400 to 2000 m/min.

Auxiliary functions of a winding machine

1. Creeling: Creeling is the removing of empty package and placement of the full
package, in the feed region of the machine, ready to be unwound as part of the
transfer process.
2. Piecing: Piecing is the process of finding the ends of the packages and connecting
them.
3. Doffing: Doffing is the process of removing the full package and placement of the
empty package, in the delivery region of the machine; ready to receive yarn as part of
the transfer process.

Methods of Driving in a Winding Machine:

1. Surface contact driving
2. Direct package driving at constant speed
3. Direct package driving at variable speed

WARPING
Warping is the second stage of the processes used after winding. The process involves
transferring yarn from a predetermined number of tubes, cones, or cheeses positioned on
the creel onto a warper's beam or a weaver's beam.

Winding involves either preparing a

package called a weaver's beam which is set up
on the back of the weaving machine, or
preparing a number of packages called warper's
beams which are then sent to the next process

known as sizing.

Types of Warping
a) Beam warping is used for long
runs of grey fabrics and simple
patterns where the amount of
colored yarn involved is less
than about 15 per cent of the
total.
b) This is sometimes referred to as direct warping.
c) Section warping is used for short runs, especially of fancy patterned fabrics where the
amount of colored yarn is greater than about 15 per cent of the total.
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SIZING
Sizing is also called as HEART OF WEAVING. Sizing is a complementary operation
carried out on warps formed by spun yarns. Sizing consists of impregnating the yarn with
particular substances that form on the yarn surface a film to improve yarn smoothness and
tenacity during the subsequent weaving stage.

Objects of sizing
• To improve the weave ability of warp yarn.
• To maintain good fabric quality by reducing hairiness, weakness, and increasing
smoothness and the yarn's strength.
• To increase the tensile or breaking strength for cellulose yarn.
• To increase the elasticity.
• To remove the projecting fibre.
• To reduce electrostatic formation for synthetic or blended yarn

Sizing Machine

The main parts of a sizing machine are the creel for the accommodation of the
warping beams; the framework and drive; the sizing unit consisting of a size box and
immersion and squeezing rollers; the drying section where the excess moisture is removed
from the size and pressed warp ends; the headstock.

Important sizing ingredients and their functions:

Adhesive: The main function of adhesive is to bind the protruding fibers along the axis
to the yarn.
There are two types of Adhesive:-
1) Natural Adhesive- Maize starch and potato starch
2) Synthetic adhesives- PVA, PVC

Lubricant/Softener: The main function of the softening agent is to give soft feel and
pliability to the yarn. Examples of the lubricants/softeners are mineral waxes, vegetable
waxes, mutton tallows, mineral and vegetable oils.

Hygroscopic substances: Hygroscopic substances have the property of absorbing

moisture from the atmosphere. It will maintain natural moisture content in the sized yarn.
Magnesium chloride and glycerin are the examples of the hygroscopic substances.

Antiseptics: Antiseptics prevent the growth and development of mildew. They will
attack the fibers and thus weakens or damage the fabric. Examples are zinc chloride, copper
sulphate, salicylic acid.

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Weighing agent: Weighing agent will increase the extra weight and cover to the sized
yarn. Examples are china clay, sodium sulphate, Epsom salt.

Bluing and brightening agent: Its main function is to overcome a dull yellow tint
colors, bluing and brightening agents are used in the size mixing.

DRAWING – IN PROCESS
The drawing-in process comes just after the preparation of the weaver’s beam. The
weaver’s beam is obtained from sectional warping or sizing. The drawing-in process mainly
consists of two processes. The first process is called drafting and the second process is
called denting. It is mostly performed manually but in large scale textile industries,
automatic drawing-in machines are used, where more productivity is required. When the
drop wires with closed D are used, the ends are drawn through the D of drop wires before
the heald eye. The drawing-in process is applied for the execution of a new fabric design on
the loom.

When the fabric design is repeated regularly, the warp tying (knotting) process is applied
to change a weaver’s beam. The tying process is done manually or with the help of the
knotting machine.
1. Drafting: “A process of passing the end through the eye of heald wire or harness
according to the draft (sequence of drafting the ends) is called drafting”. There is two
methods of drafting which are given below:
a) Manual drafting method b) Automatic drafting method
2. Denting: “denting is the process of passing the ends through the dents of reed
according to the denting order of the fabric to be woven”

Tying (knotting) or piecing:

When the fabric design is repeated on the same loom after the weaver’s beam exhaustion,
there is no need to perform the drawing-in process on that loom. The tying process is used
to replace the exhausted weaver’s beam with a new weaver’s beam.

Tying or knotting is the process of joining the ends of an exhausted weaver’s beam with
the ends of the new weaver’s beam. It is performed manually or mechanically. When it is
performed manually, it is called “piecing”. When it is performed mechanically, it is called
“knotting”.

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PIRN WINDING

Definition of Pirn
A pirn or quill is a weft bobbin that is placed inside a
shuttle in shuttle weaving. As the shuttle travels back and
forth across the width of the shuttle loom, the weft yarn is
unwound from the pirn through the eye (for ordinary
shuttle) or slot (for automatic shuttle) of the shuttle and lay
in the shed. The yarn on the quill is tapered at one end such
that the yarn with drawl takes place continuously without
entanglement.

Objects:
a) To wind yarn into a compact package suitable for loom shuttles
called pirn (or) quill.
b) To get a longer length of yarn compared to spinner’s package.
c) To remove impurities like weak places.

Pirn Winding Process

Winding of a quill is different from the regular winding process. In quilling, the yarn is
transferred from a larger package to the smaller quill, which is shown in figure. Also, the
inspection of yarn is not part of the process, therefore, there is no yarn clearing zone.
Yarn passage in pirn winding machine:
The yarn package (cone or cheese) is
mounted on the cone holder. The yarn coming from
the package passes through a thread guide. Now,
this yarn passes through a yarn tensioner. This
tensioner imparts required tension to the yarn and
helps to regulate the yarn winding density on Pirn.
The yarn again passes through another
thread guide now. The yarn now passes through a
yarn traverse guide. This traverse guide makes to
and fro movement during the winding process.
Yarn finally gets would upon the pirn.

Types of pirn winding machines:

1. Ordinary Pirn winding machine
2. Automatic Pirn winding machine
3. Cop winding machine

Advantages of Automatic Pirn Winding Machine

1. Increased productivity
Pirn winding machines can wind yarn onto pirns at high speeds, increasing productivity
and reducing labor costs.
2. Consistent quality
Pirn winding machines ensure that the yarn is wound evenly and consistently,
resulting in high-quality textile products.

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 2B03CFD–TEXTILE SCIENCE (T)
3. Long life
Pirn winding machines are recognized for their long life, easy service, and simple
operation.
4. Streamlined operations
Pirn winding machines improve yarn winding efficiency.
5. Automatic
These machines are automatic, which means that when the quill is filled, it is doffed
and an empty pirn is placed on the spindle automatically.
6. Electronic magnetic tension
Electronic magnetic tension controls the tension throughout the cycle of winding
process to get good quality of packages.

Cop winding machines

Cop winding machines are generally used in the textile industry to wind jute and
supply the weft yarn. The machine has four heads, which helps it to wind four cops at the
same time. It also has clamps that help the machine to control the length of the yarn.
Moreover, the shape and size of the cop can be easily adjusted. Tube or bobbins are not
used here to form cops, but necessary amount of pressure is needed for the same. Two
notable features of cop winding machines are that these machines are completely in auto-
stop motion system; and that the output winding package is smaller than the supply
package.
Difference between Cop winding machines and Pirn winding Machine

− As mentioned above, the weft package in cop winding machines are of jute, while that of
pirn winding machines is cotton.
− Another clearly explained feature above is that cop winding machines facilitate the
winding of only four cops at a time, while pirn winding machines can wind more than
four pirns at a single given time.
− Pirn winding machines use bobbins, while cop winding machines don’t require any
bobbin usage.
− In cop winding machines, each of the four cops can be wound by a separate motor,
meaning the availability of four different motors; while in pirn winding machines, only
one motor is used for a single machine.
− In cop winding machines, the cop creates pressure n the winding package, while there is
no pressure on the winding package in pirn winding machines.

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 2B03CFD–TEXTILE SCIENCE (T)
UNIT-III
TYPES OF FABRIC
Textile fabrics are generally two dimensional flexible materials made by
intermingling of yarns in different techniques.

Four major technologies of fabric manufacturing are

1. Weaving (Interlacing)
2. Knitting (Interlooping)
3. Non-woven (Intermeshing)
4. Braided (Cross lacing)

WOVEN FABRIC
Woven fabrics are produced by interlacing two sets of yarn, the warp and the
weft which are at the right angle to each other in the plane of the fabric. The
repeating pattern of interlacing is called Weave.

WARP & WEFT

Warp:- The longitudinal threads in a woven fabric are
known as warp. The warp threads are individually
referred as ends.
Weft:- The Horizontal (transverse) threads in a
woven fabric are called weft. A pick run from one
selvedge to another in the fabric. The weft threads
are individually known as pick.

CLASSIFICATION OF WOVEN FABRIC

Woven fabrics are broadly classified on its structural interlacements into 3
categories
1. Simple Structure
Warp and weft interlace 90o and remain at its original position. Examples are
basic weaves like plain, twill, sateen and derivatives

2. Compound Structure
One series of either warp or weft rise from the foundation of fabric to form piles.
Examples are Terry, Velvet, and Velveteen. And also multi layer fabrics like double
cloth and triple cloth.

3. Complex Structure
Some threads inter weave o left and right to adjacent threads. Examples are
Gauze and Leno.

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WEAVE REPEAT (REPEAT SIZE)
The repeat of a weave indicates the minimum number of warp and weft threads for a
given weave. The size of the repeat may be even or uneven depending upon the nature of
the weave. In elementary weaves such as plain, twill etc. the repeat size is normally even.
Satin weaves have seen both in even and odd repeat size.

BASIC ELEMENTS OF WOVEN DESIGN

1. Design
2. Draft Or Drawing Plan
3. Denting Plan
4. Peg Or Lifting Plan
5. Tie-Up And Treadling

1. Design

Design in textile language will have a definite shape, form and character. A design
will have its shape on number of ends and picks, which interlace with each other. Mark on
design paper indicates end up and blank end down

2. DRAFT ORDER
It is the process of drawing – in warp ends through the mail
eyes of healds in required order.
Number of heald shafts required for draft order and the order in
which warp ends are to be drawn through heald eyes are extracted
from correct design for weaving.
The sequence in which differently interlacing ends numbered in
design indicate its “Draft order”.

3. DENTING PLAN
The process of inserting warp yarn through reed is called
denting. The plan that indicate the order in which denting is done is
called denting plan.
This is done for keeping uniform spacing between yarns of warp
sheets. Usually two yarns are passed through each dent.

4. LIFTING PLAN OR PEG PLAN

Lifting plan or peg Plan provides the selection of heald shafts to be lifted or lowered on
each successive insertion of weft or pick. Lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the
weave plan. In a peg plan the vertical spaces indicate the heald shafts and the horizontal
spaces indicate the picks. The peg plan depends upon the drafting plan.

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5. TIE-UP AND TREADLING
Tie – up is the process of connections between heald shafts and treadles with the
aid of lams and “ V “ ropes.

PLAIN WEAVE
Plain weave is the simplest form of interlacement. Plain weave interlacement repeats
on 2 ends and 2 picks. Plain weave is used very widely in the
textile industry than any other weave. Each thread in plain
weave gives maximum support to the adjacent thread. Plain
woven fabrics are more compact and tightly woven than any
other structures. Coarse count yarn woven fabrics are called as
canvas and blanket. Fine count yarn woven fabrics are called as
cambric and muslin. Plain woven fabrics are called as calico,
tabby, alpaca and taffeta.

Characteristics of Plain Weave

• It has the maximum number of binding points
• The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.
• The thread density is limited
• It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other simple
combination of threads

MODIFICATIONS OF PLAIN WEAVE

Plain weave can be modified to derive
more attractive structures. Plain weave
derivative structures comprise varied simple
weaves, which are extension of plain weave
and can be produced on two healds.
The extension of plain weave is
possible either vertically grouping together
several number of picks in the same shed
resulting the formation of, “Warp rib
weaves”.
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 2B03CFD–TEXTILE SCIENCE (T)
The extension of plain weave is possible horizontally grouping together several
numbers of ends resulting the formation of, “Weft rib weaves”.

It is also possible to extend plain weave in both the directions of vertical and
horizontal axis resulting the formation of, “Mat weave or Hopsack weave and Basket
weave”. All the three possibilities are simple and differ from plain weave.
Catch cord technique is necessary to weave Warp rib and Mat weaves.

ORNAMENTATION OF PLAIN WEAVE

Plain weave is ornamented by using mono colour (single colour) in warp and the same
mono colour in weft, results the formation of Solid colour effect.

Plain weave is ornamented by using mono colour (single colour) in warp and different
mono colour in weft, resulting the formation of shot effect. This is commercially called as
Cross colour or double shade effect.

Plain weave is ornamented by using mono colour (single colour) in warp and white in
weft, resulting the formation of cross over effect. This is commercially called as Chambare
effect.

Plain weave is ornamented by using multi colours in warp and single colour in weft,
resulting the formation of Stripe effect.

Plain weave is ornamented by using multi colours in warp and multi colours in weft,
resulting the formation of Check effect.

Plain weave is ornamented by using different counts like 80 and 20 in warp and only
80 in weft resulting the formation of Rib stripe or doria stripe effect.

Plain weave is ornamented by using different counts like 80 and 20 in warp and same
80 and 20 in weft resulting formation of Rib check or doria check effect.

Plain weave is ornamented by using different material like cotton in warp and silk in
weft or vice – versa or any other material, resulting the formation of Union fabric.

Plain weave is ornamented by using different denting orders like 2 ends / dent for 6
times and 3 ends / dent for 6 times or any irregular denting order will result the formation
of Rib effect.

Plain weave is ornamented by using zig – zag reeds to produce Wavy effects across
the fabric.

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TWILL WEAVE
Twill weave is a kind of weave that repeat on three or more ends and picks and
produces diagonal line on the face of fabric. In regular twill the diagonal line or twill line
produces at 45 degree angle with the horizontal. Example: Denim fabric (3/1) made it twill
weave.
Feature of Twill Weave
• Diagonal line can be seen on the face of the fabric.
• Twill line may be from lower lift to upper right (Z-twill) or
from lower right to upper lift (S-twill) corner.
• Smaller repeat twill is 3, it means take at least end and
three picks produce twill weave.
• Three or more heald shafts are required for shedding.
• Generally straight draft is used for twill weave besides this
pointed or v draft is also used.
• Appearance it will design can be seen from both rides the
fabric.
• Diagonal lines run at angle vary between (15-75) Degree but in continuous or regular
twill is 45 degree.

Uses of Twill weave

Twill weave are extensively used in manufacturing fabric for garments, household cloth
and industrial cloth
1. Generally, diamond, diaper and zigzag twill are used for making pillow, cover, screen,
bed sheet, towel etc.
2. Continuous twill is used for making fabric for shirting, suiting and panting (denim,
gabardine).
3. For making various type of ornamental cloth, other derivatives of twill weave are used.
4. Hearing bone twill is used in the cloth of suiting and overcoats.

SATIN AND SATEEN WEAVES

Satin is a warp faced rearranged twill and
sateen is a rearranged weft faced twill. Thus satin
is the reverse side of sateen weaves
In the construction of satin/sateen weaves,
the stitching points of warp or weft for a given
repeat size are done by the use of move numbers or
stitch or float numbers. The move numbers are
selected according to the repeat size of the weave.

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Feature of Satin and Sateen Weave
• They are either warp or weft faced weaves.
• Have no prominent weave structures.
• Only one binding point in each end or pick
• No continuous twill lines
• More thread density is possible in warp and weft
• More mass per unit area is possible
• Have less binding points and more float lengths
• Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary to construct these weaves.

End Uses
Satin is commonly used in apparel: satin baseball jackets, athletic shorts, women's
lingerie, nightgowns, blouses, and evening gowns, but also in some men's boxer shorts,
briefs, shirts and neckties. It is also used in the production of pointed shoes for use in
ballet.

HONEY COMB WEAVE

The honey comb weaves derive their
name from their partial resemblance to the
hexagonal honey comb cells of wax in
which bees store their honey. The ridges
and hollows structure and long float in
warp and weft direction renders this class
of fabric readily absorbent of moisture

Feature Of Honey Comb Weave:

• Cell like appearance with ridges and hollows
• Single line crossing a single line or double line crossing a double diagonal line.
• More warp and weft floats
• Moisture absorbent due to floats
• Constructed with pointed and straight drafts
• A reversible fabric having similar effect on both sides.

Types of Honeycomb Weave

1. Ordinary Honeycomb Weave

2. Brighton Honeycomb Weave

Sl.No Ordinary honeycomb weave Brighton honeycomb weave

1. Draft orders are pointed Draft orders are straight
2. Cellular formation on both the sides Cellular formation on one side
Minimum number of ends and picks Minimum number of ends and picks per
3.
per repeat is 6 x 6 repeat is 8 x 8
Diamond formation on any diagonal Diamonds formation only on double
4.
line diagonal line
Maximum length of float is one less Maximum length of float is one less than
5.
than the threads per repeat half the threads per repeat
Ordinary honeycomb weave each Brighton honeycomb weave produce two
6.
repeat only forms one cell. large and two small cells

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End Uses
This weaves is particularly suitable for hand towels, glass cloths, dispensed roller
towels and bath mats, where moisture absorption properties are particularly desired, but in
similar coarse cotton qualities it is also used for quilts and soft furnishings, and in finer
qualities for shirts and brocades.

HUCK-A-BACK WEAVE
The huckaback weaves are basically toweling fabrics. They are generally associated
with honey comb fabrics and hence known as honeycomb effects. They are constructed by
alternately combining a floating with a plain weave. Interestingly, a number of weaves are
derived from these weaves.

Huck a back weaves is suitable for producing thick and heavy textures. One of the
well known heavier varieties of this class is the “Grecians”. The design of huckaback weaves
permits stripe and check effects to be brought out in the fabrics.

Features of Huckaback Weaves

• The weave is characterized by a rough surface.
• It is produced by floating threads in groups
arranged on a plain weave basis.
• Repeat: Twice of an odd number: 10X10
• With these constructions hardwearing and
extremely thick, moisture absorbing fabrics are
produced.
• 10X10 is the widely used repeat size.
• The weave can be divided diagonally into equal
parts.

Huckaback is a weave in which the weft yarns

are of a relatively lower count, and they are loosely
twisted (softly spun), making a floating and absorbing
weave.
It is woven on a dobby loom that has a mechanism for
weaving geometric patterns. The Huck cloth has good
absorbency hence suitable for towels.

End Uses
• Linen and cotton yarns are commonly used and in coarser qualities they are
particularly suitable for hand towels, glass cloths, roller towels.
• Quiltings, shirtings, dress wear and table linen are produced in finer qualities.

MOCK LENO WEAVE

Mock lenos, also known as imitation lenos are a variety of weaves of ordinary
construction which produce effects that are similar in appearance to the gauze or leno styles
obtained with the aid of doup mounting.

These weaves are generally produced in combination with plain, twill, satin or other
simple weaves or even with brocade figuring, to produce striped fabrics, which bear a very
close resemblance to true leno fabrics.

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Features of Mock Leno Weave
• It is open perforated weaves like leno
fabrics.
• It is produced in the ordinary way
without special leno shafts.
• The similarity of this weave to the
Huckaback is quite obvious, but the
method of denting is different, 4as it is
necessary to encourage thread grouping.
• The weave is arranged in groups of equal
or unequal sizes.
• Even number repeat size is normally
used. Minimum repeat: 6x6

End Uses
Fabrics produced with this weave are used for embroidery cloths, canvas cloths and
light weight window curtains, but it is also popular in combination with other weaves
particularly plain, in table linen, brocades, blouses and dress wear.

PILE FABRICS
Pile fabrics have surfaces with raised hair-like yarn structures. Thus, these fabrics
resemble a 3-D structure. This unique structure helps the water absorbency, also making
the fabric soft to touch. Pile fabrics are created by raising any one of the warp or weft set of
yarns above the surface level of the fabric. This raising is done mostly during weaving, after
shedding and before beat-up. Such raising of yarns causes them to form loop-like structures
that are termed piles. Thus, pile fabrics can be broadly divided into two types, warp-pile
fabrics and weft-pile fabrics

Terry Pile Fabric

Terry pile fabrics are the type of pile fabrics in which the loops are left uncut. Thus,
they remain as loops on the surface of the fabric, increasing absorbency and making the
fabrics feel sifter. Such terry pile fabrics are commonly used in bath wear, towels and
napkin.

Essential Conditions for Terry Weaving

1. Use of Standard weaves.
2. Keeping the ground warp in normal light tension and keeping the
pile warp in loose tension.
3. Following the special reed motion.

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Velvet (Warp Cut Pile)

The velvet fabrics have cut piles on the one side of
fabric surface. Cut pile velvet is produce by means of wires.
In this principle, the pile formation takes place with the
help of serrated wires.

Single fabric weaves at a time in this method. One

ground warp and one pile warp are used in this method.
The ground warp and weft make plain fabric. The serrated
wires are inserted in the shed according to design and peg
plan. When the pile warp passes over the serrated wire, it
makes loops of pile warp. The serrated wires are eliminated
after weaving. The loops of pile warp get cut during
elimination of serrated wires. Thus cut piles of warp yarn are formed on the fabric surface.

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Velveteen (Weft Cut Pile)
Weft cut piles produced using wires during finishing
operation is called "VELVETEEN". Ordinary loom sufficient to
weave velveteen, where piles produce longitudinal cord effect.

LENO WEAVES
A weave in which warp yarns do not lie parallel to each
other-warp yarns work in groups (usually in pairs of two) one yarn of each pair is crossed
over the other before the filling yarn is inserted.

DOUBLE CLOTHS
They are also known as two ply fabrics. Double cloths are those fabrics which consist
of two layers of threads that are woven one above the other. These two layers may loosely
stitch together. These fabrics consist of a minimum of two series of warp threads, and two
series of weft threads, face and back. The upper layer is formed by interlacing the face warp
threads with the face weft threads. The lower layer by interlacing the back warp threads
with the back weft threads.

There are two objectives in producing double cloths:

a) To enhance the thermal resistance value of the fabric
b) To give a good appearance and feel.

Classification of double cloth

1) Self stitched double cloth
2) Cloth interchanging double cloth
3) Tubular cloth
4) Double width cloth
5) Thread interchanging double cloth
6) Two ply cloth
7) Centre stitch double cloth
8) Alternate double and single cloth

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KNITTING
Knitting is a fabrication process in which needles are used to form
a series of interlocking loops from one or more yarns or from a set of
yarns. A unique advantage of knitting is that a complete product can be
fashioned directly on the knitting machine. Sweaters and hosiery are
good examples.
In knitting, a wale is a column of loops
running lengthwise, corresponding to the warp of
woven fabric; a course is a crosswise row of
loops, corresponding to the weft.

Types of Knitting
1. Weft Knitting
Weft or filling knits is the most common
type used to produce textile knitted products.
Weft knits are constructed from one yarn
which is fed into a knitting machine in a
horizontal direction. Both flat bed and circular
knitting machines can be used to make weft
knit. Few types or technique used to
manufacture weft knit structure are Single
jersey, Purl, interlock and Rib.
a) Single Jersey Stitch: Jersey knits have
flat vertical lines on the front and
dominant horizontal ribs on the back of
the fabric. Plain jersey fabric is the
simplest weft knitted structure.
b) Purl Stitch: A simple purl fabric looks like the back of jersey knit on the both side of
the fabric. Purl fabrics are made on knitting machines called purl knit machines or
links-or- links machines.
c) Rib Stitch: Rib fabric is a double jersey knitted fabric with vertical rows (wales) of
loops. Simplest rib fabric is 1 x 1 rib having alternate wales knitted to the front and
back. The ribs tend to close up to create a double faced fabric, which has the same
appearance on both sides. Rib knits fabrics are produced with the knitting machines
having two sets of needle, normally positioned at rights angle to each other.
d) Interlock Stitch Interlock stitch knits are variations in rib stitch knits. Interlock is
produce on a cylinder and dial circular weft knitting machine, with alternate long and
short needles opposite to each other on cylinder and dial.

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2. Warp Knitting
Warp knitted fabric is produced from a set of warp yarn. It is parallel knitted to each
other down the length of the fabric. More resistant to laddering than weft knits.
a) Tricot Knits: The right side of the fabric has fine lengthwise ribs
while the reverse has crosswise ribs. A soft and 'drapey' texture
with some lengthwise stretch and almost no crosswise stretch.
Tricot fabric is soft, wrinkle resistant. Tricot is very common fabric
for making lingerie.
b) Raschel Knits: Made out of conventional or novelty yarns which allows for interesting
textures and designs to be created. Raschel knits are produced
from spun or filament yarns of different weights and types. It is
coarser than other warp knit fabrics. Used for making lace fabric
and trimmings.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNITTING MACHINES

There are various ways by which we can classify knitting machines. Some define it on
the basis of its configuration whereas others on its functionality. Undeniably, there are
various kinds of knitting machines categorized under Warp knitting machines and Weft
knitting machines.

WARP KNITTING MACHINE

Warp knitting is implementing a zigzag pattern alongside the area of fabric whereas;
the weft knitting is performed by making loops across the fabric.

a) Raschel Warp Knitting Machine

This machine creates warp knits in order to form a fabric.
When compared to another warp machine, Raschel applies much
coarser yarns.
The machine operates by twisting the warp and locking
them in a loop with the following warp. This further gets shifted
backward by the other warps in order to create one more layer of
knitting. The function of needles in this machine is limited to the loops in top-level moving
in a steel plate known as a trick plate.
The Raschel warp knitting machine has locking belts that are perpendicular to the
plane surface of the shaking motion.

b) Tricot Warp Knitting Machine

On the other hand, tricot machines manufacture warp-knit
fabric that is much finer in comparison to the Raschel Machines.
In this machine, compound needles are used to knit the fabric.
Here the warp yarns are fed to the needles with the help of guide
bars with the shogging motion of the machine.

WEFT KNITTING MACHINE

This type of machine is used to create weft-knitted fabrics with the help of a single
yarn. The weft knitting method is much more common in comparison to warp knitting.
When curating weft knitting, the looms are knotted horizontally in a circular form, moving
from left to right.

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a) Circular Knitting Machine
A circular knitting machine is the most used machine at
present times. The mechanism employed by fabric manufactures
for circular knitting machines in industries to curate bulk fabric
is very simple. In the machine, the fabrics are knitted in a spiral
way, and further, these circles of stitches are combined forming
seamless tubes.

b) Jacquard Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine

The jacquard knitting machine is constructed with the
assistance of a 3-position needle selection including- tuck, miss,
and knit. This allows the intricate pattern of the jacquard fabric
to be curated.

c) Rib Circular Knitting machine

The rib structure formed on the fabric is the most notable
element of the rib knit machine. A rib-like structure is created by
the face as well as back loops taking place alongside the coarse
while the loops of wale stay the same. Moreover, two different sets
of needles are employed in a perpendicular position. The dial, as
well as the cylinder, revolve with the cam system being still.

Difference between Weft Knitting and Warp Knitting Process

Difference between Woven and Knitted Fabric

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 2B03CFD–TEXTILE SCIENCE (T)
UNIT-IV
NONWOVEN FABRICS
Nonwoven or fiber web structures include all textile-sheet structures made from
fibrous web, bonded by mechanical entanglement of the fibers or by the use of added resins,
thermal fusion, or formation of chemical complexes.

Manufacturing Process of Non-Woven

The production of nonwovens takes place in three stages, although modern technology
allows an overlapping of some stages, and in some cases all three stages can take place at
the same time.

WEB FORMATION
Nonwovens manufacturing starts by the arrangement of fibres in a sheet or web. The
fibres can be staple fibres or filaments extruded from molten polymer granules.

a) Air-laid process: A nonwoven

web forming process that
disperses fibers into a fast-
moving air stream and
condenses them onto a moving
screen by means of pressure or
vacuum.
b) Wet-laid process: In this
process, the fibres to be
utilized are. blended with
water to form water /fibre
slurry. Then, the slurry is
deposited on the forming
belt. Finally, the excess
water is removed from
fibre to produce uniform
sheet (web). With due
course of further processing, sheets are bonded and dried.
c) Spun-laid Process: A web forming processes where the production line extrudes and
supplies its own fibers from a molten polymer in one continuous process. Melt spun
forming processes include spun bond, flash spinning and melt blown. The most
common polymers used are polypropylene, polyester and polyethylene.

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d) Melt-blown Process: It like spun-laid, starts with extruding a low viscosity polymer.
But instead of quenching the filaments when they leave the spinneret, the filaments
are being attenuated by hot air streams, keeping the filaments in a partly molten
state. This leads to much thinner filaments, with a low tensile strength. The filaments
hit a belt or a conveyor belt where they form a web.

WEB BONDING
Webs have a limited initial strength right after the web formation (depending on various
bonding mechanisms). The web needs therefore to be consolidated in one or the other way.
The choice of the web consolidation method strongly depends on functional properties that
are needed as well as on the type of fibres used.
a) Thermal bonding
Thermal bonding is otherwise
termed as cohesion bonding.
This type of bonding is
completed under the application
of heat. The two sub categories
include (i) calendaring and (ii) air
thermal bonding. Hence,
formation of bonding occurs between reinforced web and matrix web. This
classification is based on the difference in melting point of matrix web materials.
Temperature is applied to fuse the matrix web fibres.
b) Chemical Bonding
Chemical bonding is otherwise
called to be adhesion bonding. This type
of bonding involves powdered adhesives,
foam and organic solvent solutions,
polymer and copolymer based binders

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such as styrene/butadiene as well as vinyl acetate ethylene copolymers as the most
commonly used bonding agents for creation of web.

c) Mechanical bonding
In mechanical bonding the strengthening of the web is achieved by inter-fibre friction
as a result of the physical entanglement of the fibres.

There are two main types of mechanical bonding:

i. Needle punching, specially designed needles are pushed and pulled through the web
to entangle the fibres. Webs of
different characteristics can be
needled together to produce a
gradation of properties difficult
to achieve by other means.
Needle punching can be used
with most fibre types but,
because of the nature of the process, not with very fine fibers.
ii. Hydroentanglement is commonly
applied to carded or wet-laid webs
and uses fine, high pressure water
jets to cause the fibres to interlace.
Hydroentangling is sometimes
referred to as spunlacing, as the
arrangement of jets can also be
used to give a wide variety of aesthetically pleasing effects. The water jet pressure
used has a direct bearing on the strength of the web.
iii. Stitch bonding: A technique in which fibers in a web are
bonded together by stitches sewn or knitted through the
web to form a fabric. The finished fabric usually resembles
corduroy.

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Finishing treatment
Finishing treatments can be either mechanical (stretching, perforating, crimping etc)
or chemical. With the latter one can modify the surface of the fibres and the nonwoven to
change the haptics or the repellency of the nonwoven.
Nonwovens can be made conductive, flame retardant, water repellent, porous,
antistatic, breathable, absorbent and much more. They can also be coated, printed, flocked,
dyed or laminated to other materials.

NANO TECHNOLOGY IN TEXTILES

The term “Nano” in nanotechnology comes from a Greek word “Nanos” that means
dwarf. The dictionary meaning of dwarf is abnormally small. Nanoscience and
nanotechnology are the study and application of extremely small things and can be used
across all the other science fields, such as chemistry, biology, physics, materials science,
and engineering. One nanometer is one billionth of a meter or 10-9 meters. One Nano
meters is about 1,00,000 times smaller than the diameter of a single human hair. The
development of smart nanotextiles has the potential to revolutionize the production of fibers,
fabrics or nonwovens and functionality of our clothing and all types of textile products and
applications. Nanotechnology is considered one of the most promising technologies for the
21st century. Today is said that if the IT is the wave of the present, the nanotechnology is
the wave of the future.
Nanotechnology has multipurpose functions in fabric manufacturing in producing the
stain and wrinkles defiance, flame retardant, antimicrobial and antistatic properties,
moisture control, ultraviolet protection and release features. The nanomaterials inside the
fabric could influence numerous qualities, comprising reduction. electrical conductivity,
flammability, and strength

NEED OF NANOTECHNOLOGY IN TEXTILE

Nanotechnology in textile as the understanding, manipulation, and control of matter
at the nano level, such that the physical, chemical, and biological properties of the
materials. It is used to develop desired textile characteristics, such as high tensile strength,
unique surface structure, soft hand, durability, water repellency, fire retardancy,
antimicrobial properties, etc.

NANOTECHNOLOGIES USED IN TEXTILE

1. Nanoparticles: A nanoparticle is a small object that behaves as a whole unit in terms of

its transport and properties. In terms of diameter, fine particles cover a range between 100
and 2500 nanometers, while ultrafine particles are sized between 1 and 100 nanometers.

2. Nano fiber: A Nano fiber is a continuous fiber which has a diameter in the range of
billionths of a meter. The smallest Nano fibers made today are between 1.5 to 1.75
nanometers. Nanoscale materials can be rationally designed to exhibit novel and
significantly improved physical, chemical and biological properties.

3. Nanocapsules: A Nanocapsule is a Nanoscale shell made from a nontoxic polymer. They

are vesicular systems made of a polymeric membrane which encapsulates an inner liquid
core at the Nanoscale.

4. Nanocomposites: Nanocomposites is a multiphase solid material where at least one

dimension of the reinforcing phase is in Nano level (less than 100 nm). In polymer
Nanocomposites, Nanomaterials are dispersed in polymeric matrices. Polymer
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Nanocomposites based fibers and coatings have huge potential in producing high-
performance and functional textiles.

5. Nanocoatings: Nanocoating is a process by which a thin layer of thickness about 100

nm is deposited on the substrate for improving some property or for imparting new
functionality. There are several nanocoating techniques which mainly are- Sol-gel, Layer-by-
layer (LBL). Self-assembly, Dip coating. Spin coating.

6. Carbon Nanotube: Carbon nanotube (CNT) is one of the most promising building blocks
existing. Its higher strength and high electrical conductivity are not comparable by carbon
nanofibers. CNT consists of tiny shell of graphite rolled up into a cylinder.

Materials used in Nanotechnology

Zinc oxide Dirt repellent, hydrophobic, cosmetics & stain resistant

Silver lon Healing property
Aluminum silicate Scratch resistance
Gold lon Chip fabrication, drug delivery

FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES

a) Water and Oil Repellent Textiles

To impart water and oil absorbency in a textile material, it is finished or coated with a
material having low surface energy. The commercially available finishes mostly based on
water/oil repellent chemicals which are of two types fluorocarbon based and non-
fluorocarbon (e.g... silicon) based. Currently, novel Nanofinishing or Nanocoatings are
fulfilling most of such market demands with water and all repellent or 'super hydrophobic
textiles.

b) Self-Cleaning Textiles
The idea of 'self-cleaning textiles' is an Inspiration from nature. There are two different
techniques popularly used for development of 'self-cleaning textiles', which are: Lotus effect,
photo catalytic action. Lotus leaves are one of the best examples of having self-cleaning
surfaces, where the dirt particles roll-out with water from the leaf-surface and makes it
cleans. In photo catalytic action TiO2 or ZnO nanoparticle-based finish coating formulations
are used to produce self-cleaning textiles.

c) Antimicrobial Textiles
It is an old concept that "silver" molecules have a power to resist bacteria and
microorganism. This antibacterial property of silver particles has been proved scientifically.
This finishing procedure is carried out by the encapsulation of the silver compounds i.e. the
nano particles of silver are encapsulated in the fiber reactive polymer.

d) Anti-Oder and Fragrance Finished Textiles

Tourmaline is a natural mineral substance, which emits negative ions by electrolytic
dissociation in contact with oxygen, carbon monoxide and water molecules. These negative
ions generate a magnetic field and restrict the growth of microbes, resulting in elimination of
bad odors and lowering the risk of skin infection. Incorporation of fragrant material (arama)
in antimicrobial/antiodor finishing either by formulation or by nanoencapsulation in
synthetic fibers may help to liberate fragrance during use

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e) Flame Retardant Textiles
The antimony pent oxide nano particles along with Halogenated flame-retardants are
used for the flame retardant finishing. Hence the presence of antimony particles along with
halogenated flame retardant in the fabric increases a flame retardant property of the fabric.

f) Wrinkle Resistant Textiles

Cotton fabric is very much susceptible to form creases during use. In conventional
methods, resin-based finishing is generally used to impart crease/wrinkle resistance
property to textile fabrics. However, resin-based finishes have many drawbacks including a
decrease in tensile and tear strength, abrasion resistance, breathability, water absorbency
and Dyeability.

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