Competency Unit 3

MAKE FABRIC SHAPES AND THEIR APPLICATIONS

IN AN INNOVATIVE WAY

C
D
First steps

Interwoven
Know the first steps for making
Ñanduti and apply it creatively
Fillet

Added

Classify the characteristics and

properties of different
embroidery —
Paragon thought
Simple Canoto
Aguara Ruguai
Star Paragon
Tyvyta Sampler
Murucuya
Pira Costilla
linear embroidery
Know the different shapes
Layette
of the patterns to make the
garments and applications in small hill

themselves Pira Costilla

J. ______ J.

Page 32
 COMPETITION UNIT 3
MAKE FABRIC FORMS AND THEIR APPLICATIONS IN AN INNOVATIVE WAY

Before starting...

Do you know the different points to do embroidery?

The basic points of this embroidery are interweaving and fillet, with good use, combination of these, and the
creativity of the weaver, various designs will be achieved.

What is done first?

First, a hem is made at the ends of the fabric, so that when tensioning it it does not

What does the Ñandutí represent?

By its forms, by the internal organization of its composition, by the ideology enclosed in each of its cobwebs,
the Ñandutí clearly represents a purely agrarian society, whose symbols

Page 33
COMPETENCE ELEMENT 1
KNOW THE STEPS FOR PREPARING ÑANDUTI CREATIVELY

FIRST STEPS

1. The canvas fabric is cut 3 cm less than the size

of the frame, a hem is made on the edges, after
carrying out these steps, fix the fabric on the frame.
(Figure 1)

Fig.1 Cutting the fabric

2. To fix the fabric to the frame,

center it by tying it with thread or line
in the 4 corners. (Figure 2) Then fix
the sides by stitching around every 2
to 3 cm, so that it is well stretched.
The thread used for tensioning
should be tied to the frame at the
beginning and at the end of
tensioning, then trace the design
onto the fabric.

Fig. 2 Fabric fixed to the 3. The thread for the design is then loaded,
frame to do this the following is done:

The design (circle) is traced on the fabric. The center is marked and with the needle threaded, loading is
carried out. Making a knot using the direction of the thread as a reference. (Figure 3)

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 4. Then proceed to fill the design with the thread by stitching up and down, leaving a small space of 2 to 3
mm. between thread and thread fill the upper part clockwise and the lower part counterclockwise. design.
(Figure 4)

Fig. 4. Filling the design.

5. Once the design is filled, make a knot in the center of the circle, passing the needle with the thread under
the threads, loading 2 to 3 turns more or less (this to tighten the threads so that they do not move), achieving
the center and apyte .

Fig. 5 Center knot in the circle.

Page 35
Sampler_ points or fabrics
Circular loaded _ armature
With the needle threaded, we cross the fabric by stitching on the upper edge of this circle mark and tie the
ends of the thread in the center of it as illustrated in figure 6, so that the thread remains even.
If you prefer, you can mark the center for a guide. From now on this direction is maintained in the loading, in
one half we load towards the right, in the other towards the left, until completing the entire circle. When doing
so, the threads in the center become superimposed. When making the last loop, the needle is passed under all
the threads of the weft, but without going through the fabric, and the needle thread is tied, forming a knot, and
it is repeated. This process two more times to lock the center well, then you can start embroidery.

Square or Rectangular Shapes

To begin, a square with the desired measurements will be drawn on the fabric (the same applies to triangular
measurements). (Figure 7)
The same steps at the beginning of the circular motif will be followed but we must pay attention to the vertices
so that the work is neat, in the central knot, what is detailed in the circular loading is also applied.

Thr
Vertices
ead

Fig. 7 Charged home run

Page 36
 SEMICIRCLE
This type of filling is widely used on the edges of tablecloths or folders, and on garments such as typo'i, its size
can vary according to need.
Once the desired design has been drawn on the frame with the fabric stretched, the center (x) will be marked.
Our needle must always come out of

Methodological Guidelines:
The stitches should not be too small or too close together, this makes embroidery difficult, more thread is used
and the work takes longer to finish. The ideal stitch distance is 3 millimeters between stitches.

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Embroidery:
As already said, there are two types of embroidery in ñandutí, from the combination of which multiple types of
samplers emerge.

It is the same type of embroidery that we use on ju lace.

It consists of passing the thread above and below the guide threads. In this case the guide threads are the
threads that remain after loading the design.

Interwoven:

It must be taken into account that if in one pass it is

interwoven in order, in the next the embroidery must be
locked, then each pass will be given a different color to this
point, it is also called fabric stitch or darning stitch.

In certain samples, when finishing a round and starting the

next, the threads do not get stuck. In this case, the only
solution is to go over or under 2 threads to get the job done
again, as seen in the illustration on the part. top highlighted
in the circle.

Fillet:
The fillet basically consists of a knot that is made with the embroidery thread and also taking the
threads from the load.

Find out
In the past, the weaver used charcoal or a pointed piece of burnt
wood to reproduce the design on the fabric.

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 Added thread

The most outstanding characteristic of the Ñanduti is that it is made up of small squares, rectangles or circles
generally measuring about 5 to 8 cm, whose warp is always radiated. Just as in ao'poi embroidery and ju lace,
the threads will be tied as the embroidery is done.
In the Ñandutí the same technique will be used because it is the one that remains the most unnoticed and is
also the one that holds up best to washing. This knot needs to be done well so that the work is not messy. To
do this, tie the knot several times as practice, and not give up on the desire to learn, this is a task that requires
repetition to acquire the necessary neatness and speed.

How do you work with pieces of thread? The ideal length for this is approximately 1,150 cm.

1-The thread in the illustration on the right in red is the

one that comes from work, and the white thread is the
thread from the ball. The white thread will be wrapped,
as illustrated, around the red thread. You must hold the
two pieces of white thread until you finish the knot.

2-You will pass the red thread over the two pieces of white
thread, and under the red thread, always holding the two
pieces of white thread as seen in the illustration on the left.

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 3-Always working with the red thread, it will be passed through the loop formed in step 2. This must be done by
first crossing the thread from behind and then passing it through the ring formed from back to front as seen in
the illustration on the left.

4-In the next step, stretch the red thread, in the piece that comes from the
ball, not at the end. This pull must be strong so that the knot is firm, and
only when it is tied well will you release the white thread.

5-In the end you only have to cut the two ends of the threads, and continue the work normally.

Find out
This knot is ideal because the union of the two threads is
very strong and it is not so thick in the final work.

Page 40
 COMPETENCE ELEMENT 2
□nan
CLASSIFY THE CHARACTERISTICS AND PROPERTIES OF THE DIFFERENT EMBROIDERY
HOW TO MAKE THE SAMPLES
References will be used to better understand the schemes. When weaving is used, a continuous line will be
used, whereas when fillet is used, a dotted line will be used.

For many of the little eyes that will be

explained below, it will serve as a guide
to draw, before loading, within each
circle already marked on the frame,
three hoops of different sizes, which
will then serve as a guide for
embroidery. The smallest will be 1.5 cm
from the center, the largest will be 0.5
cm. of the original circle.

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Important
From this moment you will begin to know the different types of samplers. It must be taken into account that the
fabric of the frame will no longer be crossed, but rather the embroidery will be done on the threads of the
loaded one.

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1- The circle is marked on the frame, and loaded as
already explained. The threads that will result from
the load will be counted and divided into 4 equal
parts. For example, if we have 100 threads in the
load, divide it by 4, it is equal to 25 threads.

Thought

2- Now to start embroidering, 3 passes of interwoven

stitch will be made in the center. Without changing the
thread, continue working with the same one with which
the loading is carried out. Then with the interwoven
stitch but only taking 25 threads of the loaded one
(which is the result of the division from the previous
step).

3- Work like this for at least 20 rounds. In the first

Page 43 4- Lock the thread towards the front and repeat
rounds, press the fabric more and as we go upwards,
we loosen it, this will make the embroidery take the the same embroidery in the next 20 threads. To
shape of the pansy petal. When you have the finish this section we take the thread on the
necessary height, we will pass the fabric through 3 or wrong side of the embroidery and take it out at
4 threads and we will take it from the wrong side to the center edge, between the two sections.
5- Now bring the thread up and make a fillet
taking one thread from each section. The thread
is then brought back down and positioned to start
a new section. To do this, we bring the thread
back to the wrong side of the embroidery and
take it out at the center edge.

6- We will repeat the embroidery of the next 20 threads.

Once finished, we repeat the fillet ornament between this
section and the previous embroidered one (in the lilac
scheme). We repeat the entire process with the last 20
threads that remain in pink in the diagram) and we finish
with a fillet decoration between the last section that was
embroidered and the first one that we made (in green in
the diagram).

7- When finishing the last ornament between

two embroidered sections, we raise the
thread and make a fillet, all around the circle,
taking care to do it more or less to the edge.
To finish, we will make two fillet knots in the
same place and cut the thread.

8- In the photo on the left we can see the motif once finished
and out of the frame.

Page 44
 Simple Canoto
1. Load as previously explained in the thinking point,
make three laps of weaving in the center taking all the
threads of the loaded one, when all the laps are done,
make a fillet to finish these three laps.

2. In the circles that were drawn, in the lower one

make the fillet around the center already embroidered
in woven stitch, take the loaded threads 2 at a time,
as you can see in the illustration on the left. This is
done until all the loaded threads are taken.

3. In the second, also make a fillet with two threads of the

loaded one, but taking 1 thread from each previous fillet, as can be
seen in the illustration on the right.
Try to leave a distance of ½ cm. Between the first and second
round, mark the circles to make the work easier.

4. This lap will be done well away from the previous

one, at the edge of the loaded one, in the largest
circle.
Embroider again with the fillet, taking the threads one
at a time.

Page 45
5. At the end of the round, bring the thread towards
the center of the last two rounds made in the way
seen in the illustration on the right, make a fillet stitch
taking 4 threads of the loaded one and pass the
thread through the middle of the thread again. Fillet
the two stitches of the round that is closest to the
edge, bring the thread back to where you are making
this round.

6. Repeat these steps again until completing the lap. At the

end of the round, make a fillet as in the illustration on the
left.

7. The illustration on the right shows the final

appearance of the embroidery before removing it
from the hoop.

8. In the photo on the left the final appearance of

the Cañoto sampler already out of the frame.

Aguara Ruguai

1. Repeat steps 1, 2, 3 and 4 of the previous sampler, 0

the Cañoto should look like the illustration on the right. 9

0
)

E
I
T
e
H
iE
t
R
Page 46 h
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 2. Now work on 8 loaded threads.
Embroider with interweaving in those 8 threads.
Make 3 passes counting the round trip as one
complete pass.

3. At the end of these passes, always embroidering with

interweaving, begin to decrease on the left side. The
decrease is carried out by stopping embroidering one
thread of the loaded one in each pass.

5. When embroidering the second motif, take the thread

that we lowered from the previous motif as shown in the

6. When making the last motif, make a fillet knot

and raise the thread as in the illustration on the
left, to begin the last round that consists of fillet
taking a single thread as in the previous samples.

illustration on the right. Also with the green arrow, we

show the direction of the embroidery, which grows to the
right with each new motif.

4. When you reach the last two threads of the loaded

one on the right, make 2 passes and then carry between
2 fillets and repeat.

The green arrow shows us the direction of the

embroidery.

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7. To finish this sampler, make a turn of the fillet very close to the edge of the fillet. When this round is
ready, the motif is finished and will look like
the illustration on the right.

Find out:

8.In the photo on the left the little eye with the Aguara
Ruguai once finished

In the case of the example, 10 motifs of 8 threads each were made. But it is generally the case that exact
numbers are not given. In these cases, you can make several motifs with 8 threads and the last one with the
remaining threads. As you learn to embroider, the calculations will be done when loading.

star sampler

1. This sampler can be made both in a circular

shape and also in a square shape. Load the drawing
and make at least three turns to form the center.

2. Divide into four parts and work on one of those

sections, work with the interweaving all the loaded
threads of that section for 7 passes.

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 3. From that pass, decrease the interweaving, stop
embroidering one thread of the loaded one in each
pass on both sides, until you have only one thread of
the loaded one.

4. Having this last thread, pass it to the wrong side of

the work and take it out along the edge of the
previously embroidered center. To start a new
segment equal to the one already finished, work on
another quarter of the loaded one as in the illustration
on the left.

5. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to make the other segment. Pass the thread behind the embroidery and take it out to
the right along the center edge, bring it up and make a fillet taking two of the
loaded threads as shown in the illustration on the right.

7. After weaving the last 2 threads, carry the embroidery to the wrong
side between the threads. When you reach the edge of the center, pass the

6. Make interweaving by first taking 2 threads of the

loaded one above the fillet, then 4 and finally 6, then
decreasing by embroidering only 4 and at the end
only 2 threads of the loaded one.

thread from the front to the wrong side, always on the wrong side to
start a new segment.

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 8. In this new segment it was marked in green in the
illustration on the left, at the end of the segment, repeat
steps 5,6 and 7 to make the decoration between the 2 petals
(in dark green in the illustration).

9. Next work on the threads that remain from the loading, first
make the petal and then the decoration between the 2 petals.
When finishing the decoration, take the thread from the wrong
side to the space between the first and last petal and repeat the
decoration as before.

10. Make the last decoration and tie a fillet knot and
raise the
thread,
positioning
it for the
final turn,
which was
also made
by making a
fillet knot as
in the

11. Make the fillet, taking the loaded threads one at a

time. The same will happen in the case of
embroidering in a square.

illustration
on the left.

12. In
the case of embroidering the motif on a square motif, make

Page 50
 sure that the corners are even and neat.

Page 51
13. To finish, make a fillet knot, locking it in the
section of thread that remains after the first knot;
In the illustration on the right it was marked in light
blue. This method is the one used in all cases to
finish the fillet and close the job.

14. In the photo on the left you can see how the
finished sample looks.

Tyvyta Sampler

1. The beginning is as in the previous

embroidery. Make several turns of weaving
forming the middle and then 2 turns of fillet
leaving between the center and the first 1/2 cm.
from separation.

2. When finishing the last fillet, make the first

segment of the sampler. Make a semicircular fillet
on 8 unloaded threads, taking the threads one by
one as in the illustration on the left.

3. When completing the 8 fillet knots, pass the

thread locking it through the fillet that is at the
base of the embroidery, as we see in the
illustration on the right, then repeat the design.

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 4. At the end of the rounds the motifs remain as in the
illustration on the left.

5.Make the last fillet, locking the thread through the base fillet
and carrying it in the opposite direction to that in which it was
embroidered, weaving over the fillet and locking in the center of
the circular motif.

6. Make
the circular motif
on 8 threads of
the loaded one,
from the center
of the motif of
the previous segment to the center of the next motif.

7.At the end of each segment, lock the thread in the center of
one of the motifs that were embroidered in the previous round,
which will be done between 2 knots of the fillet.

8. Repeat the reason already explained until completing the

lap, as in the illustration on the left and respecting the steps
explained in items 6 and 7.

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9. When completing the round, position the thread to begin what
will be the last round. To do this, lock the thread through the base
semicircle, and bring it to the top where you started the fillet round.

Sampler Mburucuya

1. The beginning is like the previous embroideries.

Embroider a center, then at 1/2 cm., a round of fillet taking 2
threads of the loaded one, and at 1/2 cm. again another
round of fillet taking 2 threads of the loaded one (1 thread
from each group of the previous fillet).

2. At the end of this second round of the fillet, work on 6 threads of

the loaded one, embroidering with interweaving. Perform at least 4
laps (1 round and 1 return make one lap).

4. Do the weaving again, respecting the position of the previous

weaving, since the embroidery must be well locked. When you
reach the end, lower the thread again on the other side of the

3. At the end of the fourth round, lower the thread

and lock it through the base fillet and passing it from
the right side to the wrong side. Bring the thread
back to where the weaving ends.

segment.

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 5. Take it back to the top and do the weaving. Repeat
these steps up to three passes more or less, as seen in
the illustration on the left.

6. The illustration on the right shows in detail how

the binding should be carried out by the base
thread, which is in lilac, the threads that come down
from the weaving and then go up are in pink.
Always working through the base fillet, make 4
rounds of weaving over 6 threads of the loaded
one.

7. In this segment also remember the ornament that

was explained in steps 3,4 and 5. Always repeat the
same steps: weaving and then edging.

8. In the illustration on the right you can see the

final appearance of the embroidery, before
doing the last step.

Page 55
9. At the end of the last segment of the row, bring the thread
upwards, wrapping it around one of the loaded threads.
Take a thread from each segment and make a fillet.

10. Continue embroidering with fillet, but taking the threads one
at a time, and try to make a curve with the fillet that follows the
design of the previous round each time you reach the end of a
segment, taking the threads in pairs.

12. To finish, raise the thread, and begin to make the fillet

11. Repeat the drawing forming curves, until all

the loaded threads are completed.

loop, taking the loaded threads one by one. In the last fillet
tie two knots to secure the work well.

13. In the photo you can see the finished

embroidery.

Page 56
 Layette

1. After loading the threads, weave the center and make two
turns of the fillet, taking two threads of the loaded one in each
knot and interspersing the threads of the loaded one.

2. After the last round of the fillet, weave taking 8 threads of

the loaded one and make at least 4 rounds (which are
equivalent to 8 passes counting the round trips).

3. Next, make a fillet knot very close to the weaving already

made, taking the loaded threads, one of them being the last
one taken in the weaving (in orange), and the other one
that is below (in green) as shown. See the illustration on the
right.

4. Make a fillet knot again, taking two threads from the

loaded one again, one of them is the one from the previous
group (in green in the drawing) and the other is the one
below (in orange in the drawing) in this way go up with the
fillet.

0
0
5. Repeat the fillet knot two more times, always taking 2
9
threads from the loaded one, always being one of them f
i
and the last of the previous group. In the illustration on t
the right you can see that the thread marked in orange E
will go together with the pink one and then the pink one I
T
with the orange one. e
H
iE
t
R
Page 57 h
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6. Repeat the way of making the fillet, but now go down with them until you reach the base of the weaving,
always taking the threads in pairs as already explained.

9. When
finishing the

7. When making the last fillet, take the thread behind the
weaving and pull it out to the right of the work, locking it
through the base fillet, as shown in the illustration, and begin
the next section.

8. Repeat steps 2 to 6, thus obtaining a design equal to

the first basket, but located to the right of it.

design, take
the thread
behind the
weave, pull it
out to the
right, locking it in the base fillet. Bring the thread upwards
and make a fillet, taking one thread from each group
previously embroidered.

10. After making the fillet from the previous step, bring the thread
down again and pass it to the back of the work, positioning it to make
the next segment.

Page 58
 11. Make a basket again and then between this and
the previous one, make the decorative fillet
explained in steps 9 and 10.

12. Always make a drawing of the basket and a fillet between

the middle of the two baskets. When making the last basket,
make an ornament between it and the previous one, so there will
be one more ornament to make between the last and first
embroidery.

13. Make the last turn of the fillet around the loaded one, taking the threads one by one as in the list on the
right.

small
hill

14. In the photo on the left the finished embroidery

1. The beginning is like the previous embroideries. Make several turns of weaving forming the middle and
then two turns of fillet leaving 1/2 cm between the center
and the first turn of fillet. from separation.

Page 59
 2. After the last round of fillet with interweaving stitch,
take 8 threads of the loaded one and make four rounds (4
going and 4 returning).
In the last round only interweave 4 threads of the loaded
one.

3. Bring the embroidery thread behind the motif,

taking it out to the right between the threads of the
fillet loop, start embroidering again with interweaving
in 8 threads of the loaded one.

4. Repeat the same number of rounds as in the previous

motif, in the last round only embroider 4 threads of the loaded
one.

5. Weave again for 87 threads of the loaded one, but do it above the two previous motifs taking 4 threads of
each motif.

6. After 3 rounds, decrease by weaving one thread

per side at a time until you have only two threads.

Page 60
 7. Having these two threads, take the embroidery
towards the wrong side of the work and take it out
towards the right side, always using the threads of the
fillet row.

8. Repeat the 4 rounds of weaving taking 8 threads of the

loaded one (in gray in the illustration on the left), weaving
above this last motif taking 4 threads of each base motif (in
green in the illustration)

9. After the last segment, raise the thread as seen

in the illustration on the right and begin the last
round of fillet in which the loaded threads are taken
one by one.

10. At the end of the fillet turn, the sampler will be

finished.

11. In photo the embroidery with the final appearance.

Page 61
 Pira Costilla

1. Prepare the load as already explained. Make three laps of

weaving to form the center, then half a cm. From this center make a
fillet turn, then half a cm. of this round of fillet as doing another
round of fillet.

2. At the end of the second round of fillet, raise the

embroidery straight and make a fillet knot taking a single
thread from the loaded one. Continue with the fillet as you
do the stitches to the left and upwards, taking the loaded
threads one by one.

3. Repeat the fillet knots until you have 7 knots on 7 loaded threads. The embroidery should have a slight
curve as in the illustration on the left.

4. When completing the 7 knots of the fillet, take the thread in

the opposite direction to that in which you were embroidering,
going down towards the beginning of the fillet. When doing this
step, weave the thread between the threads as seen in the
illustration on the left.

Page 62
 5. Pass the thread towards the wrong side of the work and pull it out again towards the front, leaving a
distance of 4 threads between the beginning of the previous
segment and the exit of the thread. Make a fillet again.

6. Repeat steps 2 and 3 making the fillet on 7 threads of the loaded thread and carry out the embroidery
as illustrated, with a small upward curve taking only 1 thread of the loaded thread, equal to the previous
segment.

7. Lower the embroidery again, weaving above the 7

fillets. Position to start another segment in the same way as in step 5.

8. Repeat the steps until you have the entire lap complete.

Page 63
9. At the end of the designs, weave the thread downwards, and then raise it, winding it along the thread of
the loaded one in which the first fillet of the last segment was made,
crossing the previous segment and beginning the final round of fillet at
the edge of the loaded one.

10. At the end of this round of fillet the motif will be finished.

11. In the photo the finished embroidery.

Page 64
 Linear Embroidery
Now we will change the style of the Ñanduti, to learn how to do the embroidery in a linear way. This is useful
when you want to make, for example, an ornament for a shirt, or a tablecloth. The explanations that we will
give will be to make a flag. It will help us practice locking when we have several strips joined together. If only
one strip is needed, the locking will stop and that's it.
LOADED
On a fabric well stretched on the frame, we mark the size of our rectangle. In the case of the flag, we must
have a size in which the three stripes are equal, for example, 20x12cm

Start embroidering the central strip, backstitching

the fabric over the edge of the already marked
model.

Then we load the rectangle by making straight

stitches that go from mark to mark of our previous
drawing. Each stitch goes through our base fabric.

Carry out the loading until the entire rectangle is

completed. The care that must be taken is that
the distance between the wires of the load is as
even as possible.

Page 65
When loading is finished, topstitch the base
fabric again as at the beginning. Do not cut
the thread as you must work with it.

Now start loading the second rectangle, in our

example it is the one above. We stitch as in step 2
to start, the arrow in the illustration on the left gives
us the direction of the stitching.

Load with another color as not be formed.

in the previous segment, In the illustration on the left,
crossing the base fabric the dotted line indicates the
following the marked thread that remains on the
drawing. The care that must wrong side of the work. Make
be taken now is to lock the the stitches so that they are
threads. This step is very locked at the back. These
important because if the stitches will be seen on the
locking is not done correctly, wrong side of the work, since
each rectangle will be they go through the base
separated and the flag will fabric.

Page 66
EI

Load the second segment, always locking the

threads with the loaded one from the previous
segment until the entire base drawing is completed.

To finish the segment, make some stitches again on

the line at the end of the drawing, as at the
beginning. Remember that you should not cut the
thread at the end of loading, since it will be used in
the next steps.

It would be difficult to work with so many threads hanging, since

they would get tangled. The craftswomen usually hold these
pieces in a corner of the frame as seen in the illustration on the
right. Or if they are very short, they take it backwards to work more
comfortably on the right side.

Now proceed to load the last segment. The arrow

in the illustration on the left indicates the direction
of the initial stitches. Always respect the
instructions regarding thread locking already
explained.

Page 67
 To finish, repeat the stitches and, as in all the
previous segments, do not cut the excess thread.

The idea of this flag is that it be made with the

national colors, so in the middle segment load
and embroider with white thread, the upper
segment with red and the lower segment blue.

EMBROIDERY
In essence, you can use any of the stitches already explained in the embroidery of the "little eyes". The
flag can be used to publicize other different points. In ñanduti the important thing is the management of
many combinations of interweaving and fillet to give life to the different samples.

The flag is already loaded. Now you must take one of the
threads that were previously suspended to start the
embroidery. The first step in embroidery is to fillet stitch the
edge of each loaded color or segment.
5

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 The first knot, take it as one more thread than the
loaded thread of the final stitch, in this case tie
the knot through the base fabric and in the same
stitch taking the loaded thread.

Make the fillet on one of the edges of the segment.

Take the loaded threads one at a time per knot, now
without going through the base fabric when making
this fillet.

Move forward linearly and when you reach the stitch with which loading
began, take a fillet knot. In this knot, go through the fabric and take
the thread at the same time, but as much as possible try to take the
smallest amount of fabric.

After this fillet knot, take the thread by twisting it

through the other starting stitches to the other edge,
where the first fillet knot is tied again, taking the
starting stitch.

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Repeat the fillet taking the threads one at a time until
you reach the end where the topstitched stitch on the
fabric is taken again with a fillet knot.

Now take the thread, twisting it through the stitches to the

center of the thread. Make a knot in the stitching, and make
the fillet again throughout the center of the loaded one,
taking the threads one at a time.

Now take the thread, twisting it

through the stitches to the
center of the thread. Make a
knot in the stitching, and make
the fillet again throughout the
center of the loaded one, taking
the threads one at a time.
When you reach the end, take,
as always, the thread from the
initial stitches with a filet knot
and start embroidering with a
stitch called Arapaho. But
before explaining it, you must
repeat the steps already

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 carried out until you have all
the colors of the flag
embroidered up to this point.

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The appearance of all the
colors is as seen in the
illustration on the right. Now
changing the embroidery
method, use interweaving
instead of fillet. Work with the
threads left from each cental
fillet (marked with a circle)

To embroider the Arapaho you

must work separately on the
two halves that each color was
divided into. We will start by
taking 2 threads of the loaded
one, then 3, 4, 5 and 6 threads
as seen in the illustrations on
the left.

In the end, you will have two interwoven threads,

at that moment take the thread behind the just
finished segment and move it using the central
fillet until it is positioned for the next segment.

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Repeating the same steps until the length of the work is complete. In this example, the last two motifs were
embroidered only on 5 threads, since the threads of the loaded one were not enough to do it on 6, this is very common
to happen and there is no problem proceeding as in this example.

Now you must take the thread behind the work and start
embroidering the other half of the same color. Follow the
scheme and the way in which the thread is carried to start
embroidering the other half.

You must be careful with the direction that the embroidery will have now, to do this you must be guided by the finished
embroidery in the other half. The drawing should be mirrored as if it
were reflected in the mirror.

'E
IT

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When transferring the thread through the central fillet,
note that it will be done with many more threads than
in the previous segment, since to position the thread,
it must coincide with the embroidery already done in
the previous half.

Then repeat the embroidery with interwoven stitch in

the same way as the previous drawing, always taking
care that it is "mirrored" with respect to the half
already embroidered.

Repeat the motif, always moving the thread as explained, until you have covered the entire length of the
motif. The figure shows us how the finished motif should look.

In the detail of the illustration on the right you can see how
the segment should end.
Using a fillet knot at the end of the interwoven embroidery,
the thread is cut to finish.

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 The embroidery steps must be repeated with all the colors. One option is to do the same embroidery
in all the colors as in the illustration on the left.

CHAINED
This embroidery is one of the most sought after in Ñanduti, due to the visual effect it presents, it appears to
be a well-crafted vanilla. It is not only used for flags but also in stripes applied to blouses and dresses.

To make the central fillet, make a fillet knot taking the base fabric and the final edge (which also goes
through the fabric), as seen in the illustration on the right.

In the next
step, take 4
threads of the loaded one and make a fillet knot with all of

them, but taking the base fabric.

Repeat the previous step until you have everything done along the length of the drawing. Finish by
making a fillet knot again, taking the base fabric and the thread that runs through the fabric.

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From that knot, make a fillet, taking the threads one at a
time and with each knot, create a semicircular shape.
Now take the thread and lock it through the central
thread, as can be seen in the illustration on the right.

Make the fillet again, taking the same threads from the
loaded stopper located in the other half. Now tie the
thread through the knot at the beginning of the central
thread. It is very important that this locking is done well
so that it does not come undone when removing the
work from the base fabric.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 but making the fillet on the same previous threads above. The locking will also be the
same as in the steps mentioned.

Re-lock the thread through the first knot of the central

thread, twist it through the thread of this same central
thread and from there start a new segment with the
next step.

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 Perform the fillet turn again, taking the threads from the next group one at a time. We will do this on both
halves, always taking care to lock the thread in the central fillet.

The locking must be done in the central fillet knot that is

located to the left of the group of threads with which the
last fillet pass was made.

At the end of the first round, make the second,

placing it as seen in the illustration on the right. It is
important to do the locking correctly.

Transfer the thread to start the next segment, wind the

thread again through the central fillet.

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By repeating the steps explained, a chain will be created that will look like this.

Make the last knot in the last knot of the central fillet that you have. Only there cut the thread.

RANDS WITH WAVES

As in the case of the flag, rectangles with the necessary
measurements will be used in this embroidery. As already
explained, in Ñanduti the important thing is the management
of many combinations of fabric and fillet to obtain different
samples.

In the semicircle divide into 2 equal parts by drawing lines. These lines must be longer than the
semicircle, since it must exceed the circle by 3 cm.

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 Erase the vertical line of the semicircle and you will have the model to transfer to the fabric previously

Repeat the semicircle again and divide it in half,

repeating the method already explained.

stretched on the frame.

Once the vertical lines have been erased, the model is ready to move to the fabric stretched on the frame.
Draw all the curves as you can see in the illustration on the
right.

Work on each wave separately. Make some

stitches following the edge of the semicircle
until the middle of the wave, in that place
called the point. Pass through the fabric and
carry the charge towards the edge of the
wave as in the illustration on the left.

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 When returning (pink line) cross the
fabric a few millimeters away from A, in the
point b.
And exit again at A to go back to the edge of the
drawing. (blue line)

When returning this pass (brown line) induce thread B

again and take it out at A to go again to the edge of
the drawing (red line). The threads will be
superimposed, as in the illustration on the right.

Repeat the steps until you have everything loaded, always

following the drawn line and maintaining the same direction as seen in
the illustration on the right indicated with the arrow until you reach
the other end of it.

In that
place,
after
crossing the fabric in the center of the drawing,
make some stitches again following the contour of
the central semicircle, crossing the fabric to position
the thread and load the next motif.

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When making the next motif, you must remember to
lock the meeting of the threads very well.

Repeat loading following the previous steps until

you have everything loaded.
When loading the last design, we exit again at A
and begin embroidering with the interlacing stitch,
taking all the threads from the loaded one.

Be careful, when interlacing, as if it were a single

thread, the thread at each end of the loaded one
(orange) along with the stitching made to position
the thread (violet).

In each pass, stop taking the loaded threads, this

will mean that you will have less and less thread
to embroider.

Make 3 to 4 rounds with the interlaced stitch, take

all the threads.

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As you approach the top, decrease one thread at a time, until
you have only 2 threads, take and pass the embroidery
thread behind the layout.

Without going through the base fabric, leave with

the embroidery at the base and roll it through the
loaded thread and position it a few millimeters to
the left of the

intertwined.

In that place, make a fillet knot, taking the loaded thread and
backstitching as if it were one. Go through the base fabric when
doing this step.

Repeat the fillet in a clockwise direction, taking one thread at

a time until you reach the other end.

When you reach the end, wind the embroidery thread then tie a
fillet knot a few millimeters to the right of the last fillet and
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 repeat the fillets to the left until you reach the opposite end.

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 The next step is to go to the center of the next
wave, always winding the embroidery thread
through the stitching that will be done when
loading the motif. And repeat the procedure in
each wave.

Having all the waves embroidered, proceed to cut the

inside of each wave including the union of the motifs,
leaving a centimeter of fabric around the center.

Fold one cm of the fabric towards the center and

follow the steps shown in the following example.

Having folded 1cm towards the center, carry out an entire embroidery in blanket stitch at the end of the work,
be careful when taking the fold of the fabric and the entire edge
of the example, take the loaded and interwoven stitching.
Otherwise, when cutting the fabric, the Ñanduti would be
separated.
of the base
fabric.

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COMPETENCE ELEMENT 3
KNOW THE DIFFERENT FORMS OF PATTERNS TO MAKE GARMENTS AND APPLICATIONS ON THEM

SIMPLE FOLDER
The next step will be to make a very simple Ñanduti rug since the center of it is the fabric that will be used as a base.
To do this, a cotton fabric of your choice, which can be white or colored, must be stretched on the frame.
On white paper draw a circle that will mark the center of the work.

In the circle divide into 4 equal parts by drawing

lines. These lines must be longer than the circle,
since they must exceed the circle by 3 cm.

Divide each section in half again and repeat the same

method.
Join these lines with a slight curve, use a curved
element to make them equal.

Erase the internal lines of the circle.

And you will have the model to transfer to the
fabric previously stretched on the frame.

Now that the internal lines of the circle have been

erased, the model is ready to be transferred to the
fabric stretched on the frame.
Draw all the curves as in the illustration on the right.

Page 85
 Work on each wave separately.
Make some stitches following the edge of the circle until the
middle of the wave, at the point called point. Cross the fabric
and bring the material towards the edge of the wave as in the
illustration on the left.

When returning (pink line) cross the fabric a few

millimeters away from A, at point B. And exit again at A to
go back to the edge of the drawing (blue line)

When returning this pass (brown line) reintroduce thread

B and take out in A to go again to the edge of the drawing
(red line). The threads are superimposed, as in the
illustration on the left.

Repeat the steps until you have everything loaded, always following the drawn line and maintaining the same
direction as seen in the example indicated with the arrow until
you reach the other end of the graph.

At that point, after crossing the fabric in the center of the

drawing, make some stitches again following the contour
of the central circle, crossing the fabric to position the
thread and load the next motif.

Page 86
 When making the next motif, you must remember to
lock the meeting of the threads very well.

Repeat loading following the previous steps until you have

everything loaded.
When loading the last design, exit again at A and start
embroidering with the interlacing stitch taking
all threads loaded.

Be careful, when interlacing, as if it were a single

thread, the thread at each end of the loaded one
(orange) along with the stitching made to position
the thread (violet).

Make 3 to 4 rounds with the interlaced stitch, take all the

threads.

In each pass, stop taking the loaded threads,

this will mean that you will have less and less
thread to embroider.

Page 87
 As you approach the
top, decrease one
embroidered behind the layout.
thread at a time, until
you have only 2
threads, take and pass
the thread of the

Without going through the base fabric, leave with the embroidery at
the base and roll it through the loaded thread and position it a few
millimeters to the left of the interlacing

Repeat the fillet in a clockwise

direction, taking one thread at a
time, until you reach the other

Page 88
end.
In that place make a fillet knot,
take the loaded thread and
topstitch as if it were one. Go
through the base fabric when
doing this step.

When you reach the end, wind

the embroidery thread then tie a
fillet knot a few millimeters to the
right of the last fillet and repeat
the fillets to the left until you
reach the opposite end.

Page 89
Having the waves embroidered, through the stitching that will
we proceed to cut the inside of be done when loading the
each wave to empty even the motif, repeat the procedure in
union of the motifs, leaving a each wave.
centimeter of fabric around the

center.
The next step is to go to the Fold one cm of the fabric
center of the next wave, always towards the center, taking the
winding the embroidery thread step shown in the illustration
on the left.

Having folded one cm towards the center, carry out

the entire blanket stitch embroidery at the end of the
work, be careful when taking the fold of the fabric and
the entire edge of the example, take the loaded and
interwoven stitching. Otherwise, when cutting the
fabric, the Ñanduti would be separated from the base
fabric.

Page 90
For the elaboration of Typoi

When the neckline and sleeves of a typoi are to be made on the

different pieces with which a skirt is made, the pattern that is made
in pencil on paper does not include the circles, but rather the
scheme of small squares or rectangles that will also be copied on
the fabric stretched on the frame and that will be made with a
radiated warp or not, according to the needs of the pattern.

1 - On the fabric well stretched on the frame, we mark the sleeve

of the typoi with the help of a carbon that will make it easier for
us to copy the pattern.

2- Start embroidering the upper strip, with the desired

stitch, in this case the chosen stitch is a chain stitch.

3- Next, embroider the waves without forgetting to work with the

fringe already embroidered in chain stitch. (these steps were
already explained on previous pages)

4- Load the squares into rectangles without forgetting to

lock with each other.

Page 91
 5- Start loading the strip (in the drawing) always
without forgetting to lock two threads and without going
through the fabric.

6- Load by locking the waves (marked in black)

and embroider in woven stitch.

7- Then embroider the lower strip in chain stitch,

always interlocking the waves with the stitches.

8-

Finally, load the waves, this was already explained on

previous pages.

9- - Photo of the presentation of the embroidery on

the frame

Page 92
Nejas for skirt

As in the case of the neckline and sleeves of a typo'i, in the

different pieces or nejas with which a skirt is made, a pencil pattern
is also made on the paper with the outline of small squares or
rectangles that will also be copied on the fabric stretched on the
frame.

1- The steps will be carried out following the same steps of making
the typo'i sleeve and there will be 8 needles to embroider.

Page 93
 2- In the event that this scheme is
1- The stitches to be
used to make a tablecloth. Make the
embroidered are up to the
corners using this scheme.
weaver's choice, this scheme is
also used for skirt lace.

Tablecloth lace
The steps will always be following the outline drawn
in pencil.

1- Outline drawn in pencil on the frame. 2- You need 2 diagrams of this design drawn
in pencil on the frame.

Hat
3- Once the embroidery is finished, join
the parts and form a hat.
Yo

Page 94
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A. Describes the basic points used in ñanduti.
&
Fl. nn, la micma g nun cnan, anraia
CD Interweaving consists of doing the embroidery in the same way as it is done with lace.
ju, that is, passing the thread above and below the threads that act as a guide, this point
It is also called darning.
EITHER
OR
CD The fillet, however, is a knot that is made with the same thread that is embroidered and
taking the guide threads.
CD
B. Make each stitch and embroidery learned and place them in a sample book.
"•
CD

EXPANDING KNOWLEDGE
· Ñandutí, Paraguayan Lace. ANNICK SANJURJO.
· The draft. José Miguel de Salamanca.

CLARIFYING TERMS
Frame: 4 wooden slats crossed and nailed in the corners.

Blunt tip: Pointless needles.

Interwoven: It is also called darning.

Fillet: Knot that is made with the work thread, taking the threads
of the loaded one.

Fold: Part that bends and sign that remains.

Typoi: Blouse, women's shirt, typical Paraguayan garment.

Page 95