In this pattern you are going to find the neccesary instructions to crochet your own
amigurumi doll with armature inside. The dolls of the photos are around 20 cm tall the big
one, and around 12 cm the small one. They are made of Cotton Nature of Hilaturas LM The
size of your dolls may vary depending on your tension when you crochet, even if you do use
the same materials.
Cotton Nature of Hilaturas LM
1,90 mm crochet hook
Wire or pipecleaners
Fiberfill
Polyester thread to sew the pieces
Scissors and needles
Chain stitch ch Half double crochet hdc
Single crochet sc Double crochet dc
Increase inc Treble crochet tr
Decrease dec Double treble dtr
Slip stitch ss
Brackets [] mean that you have to repeat the stitches included in them the times it is
specified, or till you finish the round. For example, “[2 sc, inc] around” means to work
1 sc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, 1 sc, inc, ... until the end of the round we are crocheting.
If the instructions indicate, for example, to work 5 sc, it means we have to work 1 sc
in each of the next 5 stitches.
An increase are 2 stitches worked in the same stitch, unless is suggested a different
number of stitches. If it only says “inc” it’s crocheted in sc, if it’s another stitch it will
be indicated in the instructions.
A decrease are 2 stitches worked together in one stitch, unless is suggested a different
number of stitches. If it only says “dec” it’s crocheted in sc, if it’s another stitch it will
be indicated in the instructions.
The number in parentheses at the end of each round shows the number of stitches
our work should have at the end of that round.
This pattern is designed to work in spiral, the end of each round will be slightly
above the top of the same round. If you have to work otherwise, it will be indicated
in the instructions.
Work through both loops, unless it is specified.
It is recommended to do a quick read of the instructions before starting to crochet, so
we can prepare what is needed.
If you want to make me a question or comment something about this pattern, send
me an email to bajounaseta@gmail.com
Start with skin colour
1º Round: Magic ring of 6 sc (6)
2º Round: sc around (6)
3º Round: (3 dc dec together), 5 sc (6)
To make a finger we have to dec
together 3 dc, so the first thing to do
is yarn over and go through the
correspondent stitch.
Yarn over and pull through the
stitch, you should have 3 loops in
your hook, yarn over again and pull
through 2 of that loops.
Yarn over, repeat the same steps in
the same stitch twice.
After you’ve repeated the steps, you
should have 4 loops in your hook, as
you see in the photo.
Yarn over and pull through all 4
loops at once.
4º Round: sc around (6)
Change to shirt colour (or continue with skin colour)
5º-17º Round: sc around (6)
Let’s start with one leg
1º Round: Magic ring of 6 sc (6)
2º Round: [inc, 2 sc] around (8)
3º-4º Round: sc around (8)
5º Round: [dec, 2 sc] around (6) (The foot ends here)
6º-20º Round: sc around (6)
Fasten off and repeat for the other leg
When you get to this point making the second leg, do not fasten off and continue:
21º Round: 3 sc in current leg, 4 foundation sc, 6 sc around the other leg, 4 sc (in the
foundation sc), 3 sc in the leg. (20)
To make a foundation sc go with
your hook through the same stitch as
the last sc made.
Yarn over and pull through the
stitch, yarn over and pull through
one loop.
If you look at the photo, you can see
a little chain and 2 loops in the hook.
Yarn over and pull through those
loops.
You have your first foundation sc,
and you can see in the photo that it
has a little line under it.
Repeat the previous steps to make
another foundation sc. First go
through the line under the first
foundation sc and yarn over.
Pull through the line and yarn over
again.
Pull through only one loop, and yarn
over again.
Pull through both loops and you have
your second foundation sc made.
Repeat the steps until you have 4
foundation sc like the ones in the
photo.
When you have to crochet on those
foundation sc, go throught the lines
under them with your hook.
22º-24º Round: sc around (20)
You can use pipecleaner for the
armature. Cut a piece the size of the
legs, and fold the ends.
Take another piece of pipecleaner,
this will be the spine. Fold it in half
and put the legs pipecleaner. Twist
the spine pipecleaner so the other
pipecleaner stays in place.
Put the pipecleaner inside the legs
and keep working.
25º Round: 3 sc, inc, inc, 1 sc, inc, inc, 12 sc (24)
26º Round: dec, 1 sc, dec, dec, 1 sc, dec, dec, 2 sc, dec, 8 sc (18)
Change to shirt colour (or continue with skin colour)
27º Round: [dec, 7 sc] around (16)
28º-30º Round: sc around (16)
31º Round: 1 sc, put pipecleaner, 8 sc, put pipecleaner, 7 sc (16)
Cut a piece of pipecleaner the size of
the arms and the part of the body
between them. Fold the ends.
Put the pipecleaner in the spine
pipecleaner and twist a little to set it
in place.
Now let’s start crocheting. Just put the
pipecleaner to the left of the last stitch
made.
Go over the pipecleaner and inside
the next stitch you have to crochet..
Make the stitch as you usually would
do, the pipecleaner will stay now in
the correct position to attach the arm.
32º Round: [dec, 6 sc] around (14) (The shirt ends here)
33º Round: [dec] around (7)
34º-37º Round: sc around (7)
38º Round: [inc] around (14)
Now we are going to make the head, to shape the chin we are going to crochet some rows
instead of rounds. For now we are ignoring the end of round marker, I will tell you where
to put it later.
39º Row: inc, inc, inc, inc, turn around
40º Row: Ch 1, (inc, 1 sc)x 4 times, inc, turn around
41º Round: Ch 1, (2 sc, inc)x 4 times, 2 sc, continue along the side and decrease 1 sc in the
side with 1 hdc in the base, continue with 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, decrease 1 hdc in the
base with 1 sc in the side. Mark this last stitch as the end of the round from now. (30)
To make the chin we are going to
crochet some rows instead of rounds.
First make the inc stitches of Round
39º
When you reach the end, turn
around and start working in those
stitches, chain 1 and inc in the same
first stitch, and follow the rest of the
instructions.
Whe you have finished the row, turn
around again, now you are on the
right side of the doll.
Work all the stitches until you reach
the end. Now we are going to join
the chin part with the base part.
First go with your hook through a
stitch in the side of the chin.
Yarn over and pull through the
stitch, this is the part to decrease a sc.
Now we are going to decrease a hdc.
Yarn over and go through the first
free stitch in the base.
Yarn over and pull through the stitch.
You should have 4 loops in your hook
now.
Yarn over and pull through 4 loops
at once.
To decrease 1 hdc and 1 sc at the other
side, repeat this steps but on the other
way.
42º-44º Round: sc around (30)
45º Round: 8 sc, dec 3 dc together, 21 sc (30) (Now we have made the nose)
46º Round: sc around (30)
47º Round: 2 sc, look for a stitch 4 rounds under the current stitch and make there a
decrease of 1 dtr, 1 tr, and 1 dc, continue crocheting 13 sc in the head, and look for another
stitch 4 rounds under the current stitch and make there a decrease of 1 dc, 1 tr and 1 dtr,
finish working 15 sc in the head. (30)
Let’s make the ears. Look for a stitch 4
rounds under the current stitch and
mark it. Yarn over thrice to start
working the dtr.
Insert the hook in the marked stitch,
yarn over and pull through. (Yarn
over and pull through 2 loops)make
this parenthesis thrice, in the end you
should have 2 loops on your hook.
Now let’s make the tr, yarn over
twice and go through the same
marked stitch, yarn over and pull
through. (Yarn over and pull through
2 loops)make this parenthesis twice,
in the end you should have 3 loops in
your hook.
The last one is the dc. Yarn over and
insert the hook againin the marked
stitch. (Yarn over and pull through 2
loops)make this parenthesis once, in
the end you should have 4 loops in
your hook.
Once you have made the stitches,
and you have 4 loops in your hook,
yarn over.
Go through all the 4 loops, you should
have something like the photo shows,
this is the first ear.
Keep working until you get to the
other ear. Repeats the sames steps as
the first ear, first look for a stitch 4
rounds under the current stitch. Now
we are going to make the same
stitches as before, but in reverse order,
let’s start with the dc.
Yarn over, go through the marked
stitch, yarn over and pull through,
yarn over and pull through 2 loops.
Now we make the tr, work it as
before until you have 3 loops in your
hook.
The last one is the dtr, yarn over
thrice and follow the same steps as
before.
In the end you should have 4 loops in
your hook.
Yarn over and pull through all the
loops at once.
Now you have made both ears and
can continue working the head.
48º-51º Round: sc around (30)
Atenttion!! When you work the 48º
Round you should watch out to skip
the ear’s stitches. The stitch above the
ear should be skiped and work
directly the next stich, in the photo is
the one marked with the hook. If you
work them you will have at the end
of the round 2 extra stitches that you
don’t need.
52º Round: [dec, 4 sc] around (25)
53º Round: [dec, 3 sc] around (20)
54º Round: [dec, 2 sc] around (15)
55º Round: [dec, 1 sc] around (10)
56º Round: [dec] around (5)
Start with skin colour
1º Round: Magic ring of 6 sc (6)
2º Round: sc around (6)
3º Round: (3 dc dec together), 5 sc (6)
4º Round: sc around (6)
Change to shirt colour (or continue with skin colour)
5º-13º Round: sc around (6)
Let’s start with one leg
1º Round: 6 sc Magic ring(6)
2º Round: [inc, 2 sc] around (8)
3º Round: sc around (8)
4º Round: [dec, 2 sc] around (6) (The foot ends here)
5º-14º Round: sc around (6)
Fasten off and repeat for the other leg
When you get to this point making the second leg, do not fasten off and continue:
15º Round: 3 sc in current leg, 4 foundation sc, 6 sc around the other leg, 4 sc (in the
foundation sc), 3 sc in the leg. (20)
16º Round: sc around (20)
17º Round: 3 sc, inc, inc, 1 sc, inc, inc, 12 sc (24)
18º Round: dec, 1 sc, dec, dec, 1 sc, dec, dec, 2 sc, dec, 8 sc (18)
Change to shirt colour (or continue with skin colour)
19º Round: [dec, 7 sc] around (16)
20º Round: sc around (16)
21º Round: 1 sc, put pipecleaner, 8 sc, put pipecleaner, 7 sc (16)
22º Round: [dec, 6 sc] around (14) (The shirt ends here)
23º Round: [dec] around (7)
24º Round: sc around (7)
25º Round: [inc] around (14)
Now we are going to make the head, to shape the chin we are going to crochet some rows
instead of rounds. For now we are ignoring the end of round marker, I will tell you where
to put it later.
26º Row: inc, inc, inc, turn around
27º Row: Ch 1, (inc, 1 sc)x 5 times, inc, turn around
28º Round: Ch 1, (2 sc, inc)x 5 times, 2 sc, ontinue along the side and decrease 1 sc in the
side with 1 hdc in the base, continue with 1 sc, inc, inc, 1 sc, decrease 1 hdc in the base with 1
sc in the side. Mark this last stitch as the end of the round from now. (30)
29º-31º Round: sc around (30)
32º Round: 10 sc, dec 3 dc together, 19 sc (30) (Now we have made the nose)
33º Round: sc around (30)
34º Round: 4 sc, look for a stitch 4 rounds under the current stitch and make there a
decrease of 1 dtr, 1 tr, and 1 dc, continue crocheting 13 sc in the head, and look for another
stitch 4 rounds under the current stitch and make there a decrease of 1 dc, 1 tr and 1 dtr,
finish working 13 sc in the head. (30)
35º-38º Round: sc around (30)
39º Round: [dec, 4 sc] around (25)
40º Round: [dec, 3 sc] around (20)
41º Round: [dec, 2 sc] around (15)
42º Round: [dec, 1 sc] around (10)
43º Round: [dec] around (5)
As the doll is almost enterely made in one piece, the only thng you have to sew on are
the arms, or any detail you want to make. If you have made the doll with armature, when
you insert the pipecleaners in the arms they stay in the correct position to be sewn. If you have
chosen to make the doll without armature, you should pin first the arms to the body and then
sew them in place.
You have finished your little dolls now!
This pattern is made by Silvia Usón from “Bajo una seta”, please, respect my rights and don't
copy, sell or distribute this pattern as yours. The amigurumis made with this pattern can be for
personal use or for selling, giving me credit as the author of the pattern with my name and a
link to http://bajounaseta.blogspot.com.es
